^ %. v^^' 






.:CglE^^ 









'^. >^ ^. 







\r,^,^'./- •^. 






,'X^' ^ 



^v^ .>^.n°' 












>0 c?^ 



.0-' 






"O. 



l.'^-' 










toP^ .>:^'^ 






^^<=,^ 



V v^ ■^^. ^^.: . . ^^'^^ -.., ^.fc ^ -^ -.<^ ... x^^. , 









o . 'tU 



'^>, ^,'^T^^s^ NJ> 






\"^^ 



X 



<-.r.\ 









/' .^0 \ '«- ;\^^\ o''"-- ' ^'-\-° 






0^ .■\ 







."^. o-o 



oo^ 







: o:^ 









'i>, .*' 



\..'--\>^^:: 









•X^^' '"^^c. 



' '%Ski>»Ji^ X* . ^'<' 









■ \-^^s J' % '-> 



•'.. ,x^^ 



.^^' 












■/-v 







^^ =\4 



." x^' ^^ 







V . >^ ^ 



v'^^-S'-^^. 



CO' 


















V .x^^ 



r\ : <> "i" 



^-^ 






s 










.Oo^ 















^^>' . 



vO O^ , - -iT' 













\\ % .vx^^ 



>5.'-:<^ 



^\ />, 









^ .■ N<^ '■' - -^ 



mi II. 



'/ 






..>^.' A^^'^^' 



.V\^ co^ 



,0 o^ 






^V -v. 



v.;V--\o^^\-. 















K^" '^'^^ '^xm 



^i> * N ^ ^^0 



.* cO <^r. >- 




o^.-.>, '^. *-^' .>"- 






X...^^^■ 






ameeica:^ cuisine 



BY/ 

GESINE LEMCKE 



Beauty, health, and happiness depend 
upon the kind of food we eat. 



JUN 6 1895 

>. ..^t^ ' 




^17 



NEW YORK 

D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 

1895 



x^ 






V 



Copyright, 1895, 
By D. APPLETON AND COMPANY. 



PKEFACE. 



What science can boast of having done more for the happiness 
of humanity and the advance of the civilization of the world than 
the art of cooking ? It is strange that this, the most valuable, is so 
often left in the hands of the ignorant. It should be the duty 
of every woman who expects to become a wife and mother to 
study the art of cooking and the science of domestic affairs, for the 
destiny of the world depends upon the food we eat. 

Never is a man more susceptible to kind and noble deeds than 
after partaking of a good meal. And I sincerely hope that this 
work may be of benefit, and give able assistance, to our many tried 
housekeepers in preparing healthy and nutritious food. 

Gesine Lemcke. 



CONTENTS. 





PAGE 




PAGE 


Soups, etc. . 


. 1 


Sea Food, etc. {Continued). 




Soups without Meat 


. 62 


Salmon . 


. 179 


. Fruit and Wine Soups 


. 64 


Trout 


. 190 


Beer and Milk Soups 


. 67 


Carp 


. 192 


Forcemeats . 


. 73 


Shad 


. 196 


Forcemeat Balls and Dump 


LINGS 78 


Sheepshead 


. . 202 


Small Dumplings for Frui 


r AND 


Kingfish . 


. 204 


Wine Soups 


. 82 


Haddock . 


. 205 


Sauces .... 


. 89 


Red Snapper . 


. 307 


Cold Sauces . 


. 107 


Whitebait 


. 209 


Butters, etc. 


. Ill 


Whitefish 


. 210 


Essences, etc. 


. 113 


Weakfish 


. 210 


Sea Food, etc. 


. 116 


Perch 


. 213 


Oysters . 


. 116 


Pike. . . . 


. 216 


Clams 


. 124 


Pompano . 


. 221 


Mussels > 


. 130 


Bluefish . 


. 323 


Shrimps . 


. 131 


Butterfish 


. 324 


Lobster . 


. 132 


Blaekfish . 


. 225 


Crabs . 


• . 137 


Bass. 


. 226 


Soft-shell Crabs 


. 138 


Meats .... 


. 233 


Frogs 


. 139 


Beef 


. 233 


Terrapin . 


. 140 


Veal. . . . 


. 374 


Scallops . 


. 141 


Sweetbreads . 


. 395 


Eels. . . 


. 142 


Lamb 


. 300 


Smelts . 


. 148 


Mutton . 


. 313 


Flounders and Sole . 


. 150 


Cold Lamb and Mutton 


. 329 


Halibut . 


. 156 


Pork 


. 331 


Turbot . 


. 158 


Cold Pork . 


. 348 


Fresh Mackerel 


. 160 


Poultry. 


. 357 


Salt Mackerel . 


. 165 


Chicken . 


. 358 


Herring . 


. 166 


Cold Chicken . 


. 387 


Fresh Codfish . 


. 170 


Turkey . 


. 393 


Codfish . 


. 170 


Cold Turkey . 


. 398 


Salt Codfish . . 


. 174 


Geese 


. 404 



CONTENTS. 



Poultry {Continued). 

Duck .... 

Pigeon .... 
Salpicon .... 
Game 

Canvasback Duck, etc. . 

Venison, Hare, Rabbit, etc. 
Sandwiches and Canapes 
Vegetables . 

Potatoes . 

Sweet Potatoes 

Tomatoes. 

Asparagus 

Cabbage, etc. . 

Beans 

Peas . 

Carrots, Turnips, etc. 

Corn, Beets, Celery, etc. 

Cucumbers, etc. 



413 
421 
426 
430 
430 
446 
454 
458 
458 
470 
471 
475 
477 
485 
491 



600 



Vegetables Continued). 

Oyster Plant, Parsnip, Arti- 
choke, etc 504 

Truffles 507 

Mushrooms .... 508 

Onions 512 

Purees, etc 518 

Macaeoni and Nudles . . . 516 

Nudles 518 

Rice, Hominy, and Bread Crou- 

stades 522 

Cheese Dishes .... 529 

Egg Dishes 532 

Pancakes, Muffins, Gems, etc. . 543 
Bread, Cakes, etc. . . . 550 

Punches 579 

Fruit Shrubs .... 585 
Chafing Dishes .... 587 



EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN CUISINE. 



SOUPS, Etc. 

Large Bouquet. — Place on top of 3 clean sprigs of parsley 
1 sprig of thyme, 1 bay leaf, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, and 9 whole 
peppers ; fold the parsley around the herb and spice, so as to inclose 
them entirely inside the parsley ; then tie it tightly with a white 
string, and use as directed in various recipes. 

Small Bouquet. — Place on top of 1 sprig of clean parsley 74 
bay leaf, 74 blade of mace, 1 clove, 73 sprig of thyme, and 6 whole 
peppers; inclose the herb and spice in the parsley, tie it with a 
white string, and use as directed in various recipes. 

Consomme. — Cut 3 pounds of beef, 3 pounds of veal, and 1 
chicken into small pieces. Spread the bottom of a soup kettle with 
butter, cover this with 2 thin slices of raw ham, on top of this place 
the meat, adding 2 quarts of cold water, and set the kettle over a 
medium hot fire ; let it boil slowly until the water has boiled away 
and the bottom of the kettle is covered with a rich brown gravy. 
Great care must be taken not to have the fire too strong, so that it 
does not burn ; otherwise the bouillon will be worthless. Frequent 
stirring is necessary while boiling. Then add enough cold water to 
cover the meat, add 72 tablespoonful salt, 1 sliced carrot, 1 white 
turnip, 1 celery root, 2 large onions, and a bouquet; cover the kettle 
tightly, and let it boil slowly until the meat separates from the 
bone ; then remove the meat, strain the broth, free it from every 
particle of fat, return the broth to the kettle, beat the whites of 3 

1 



2 SOUPS, Etc. 

eggs to a stiff froth, mix them with Yg gill of cold water, add to the 
soup, stir and boil 5 minutes ; then draw the kettle to side of stove ; 
let it remain 10 minutes. Put a sieve over a saucepan, lay a napkin 
in the sieve, then pour in the consomme and strain it through the 
napkin. The consomme must be transparent and have a rich 
brown color. It is the basis of all clear soups, and is also served in 
cups at lunches and suppers. 

Plain Soup Stock. — Chop into pieces a shank of beef weigh- 
ing from 3 to 4 pounds ; place in a soup kettle ; add, if handy, a 
small shank of veal, meat gravies, and any fine-chopped bones that 
may be at hand — from roasted meat or poultry ; also a piece of liver 
or kidney may be added; cover all with cold water; set the kettle 
over a slow fire, let it heat gradually until it boils ; then add Yg 
tablespoonful salt, 2 onions, 2 leeks, 2 stalks of celery, 1 small carrot, 
1 white turnip, and a large bouquet ; cover tightly, and let it boil 
gently till the ^ meat falls from the bone; then remove the meat, 
strain the stock through a napkin, and free it from every particle of 
fat. If not used at once, let it cool ; then put it into a stone jar or 
glass jars ; cover and place it in the ice box. It will keep for three 
days in summer, and for one week in winter. This stock is used for 
all plain soups. 

White Stock. — Take a shank of beef and veal weighing 3 
pounds each ; remove the breast, legs, and thighs of a well-cleaned 
chicken (reserve them for other purposes) ; chop the body of the 
chicken into pieces, also the beef and veal ; place them in a soup 
kettle ; add the giblets and the well-cleaned feet of the chicken, and 
cover all with cold water ; place the kettle over a slow fire, let it 
heat gradually until it begins to boil ; then add 2 leeks, 1 white 
turnip, 3 onions, 1 carrot, a large bouquet, and Y2 tablespoonful 
salt ; cover the kettle tightly, and let the stock simmer gently till 
the meat separates from the bone ; then remove the meat ; strain 
the stock into a clean saucepan ; free it from every particle of fat. 

stiff frotl), mix with Y2 giU of cold 



SOUPS, Etc. 3 

water, add it to the stock ; place the saucepan over the fire, stir and 
boil 5 minutes ; then draw the saucepan to side of stove ; let it 
remain 10 minutes; then strain the stock through a napkin. If 
not used at once, put away in glass jars, and keep in a cool place. 
Care must be taken to have the soup stock perfectly cold before the 
jars are closed, and it will then keep for several days. This stock is 
used for all fine soups. 

Chicken Broth. — Procure a nice plump chicken weighing 
about SVs pounds ; singe, draw, and wash it quickly in cold water ; 
or, in place of washing, wipe the chicken in and outside with a 
damp towel. Pour boiling water over the feet, let them lay 1 min- 
ute, take out, remove the skin, and place them with the chicken 
and giblets in a large saucepan ; cover with cold water, add Yg table- 
spoonful salt ; cover the saucepan, and place it over a moderate fire, 
and as it comes to a boil remove all the scum ; then add 2 leeks, 3 
white onions, 2 sprigs of parsley, and 1 blade of mace ; keep the 
saucepan tightly covered, and boil slowly till the chicken is tender. 
When done take out the chicken, remove the meat, return the bones 
to saucepan, and continue the boiling Yg hour longer ; then strain 
the broth through a napkin, remove all the fat, and season to taste 
with salt. If not used at once, put away in glass jars for general 
use. The broth should be perfectly cold before the jars are closed. 
The chicken may be served whole, with egg sauce, or Sauce a 
I'Allemande, etc. 

Mutton Broth. — Place 2 necks of mutton in a saucepan, 
cover with cold water, add 1 teaspoonful salt, and as it comes to a 
boil remove all the scum; add Y2 cupful fine-cut soup celery, 1 
onion, 1 sprig of parsley, and a small carrot cut into pieces ; cover 
tightly and boil until the meat falls from the bones ; then strain it 
through a napkin into a bowl ; remove every particle of fat, and sea- 
son to taste with salt. This broth is mostly used for invalids. One 
tablespoonf ul of barley or rice may be boiled with the broth. An- 
other way is to add to Y2 pint of broth the yolk of 1 egg and 2 
tablespoonfuls sweet cream. 



4: SOUPS, Etc. 

Veal Broth. — Place in a soup kettle a knuckle of veal weigh- 
ing from 2 to 3 pounds; cover with cold water, and add Yo table - 
spoonful salt ; as it comes to a boil remove all the scum that rises ; 
then add 1 white turnip, 2 onions, 2 leeks, 3 sprigs of parsley, and 1 
blade of mace ; boil slowly till the meat falls apart ; then take it 
out, remove all the fat from the broth, strain it through a sieve and 
napkin into a bowl, and season to taste with salt. If not used at 
once, put away in glass jars, and keep in a cool place. Care must 
be taken to have the broth perfectly cold before the jars are closed ; 
it will then keep for several days. 

Grlaze. — Place 2 pounds beef, 3 pounds veal, and 1 old chicken 
in a soup kettle with sufficient cold water to cover ; add 2 onions 
and 1 carrot ; boil slowly 4 hours, without salt ; then strain ; remove 
the fat ; put the stock into a stewpan over a clear fire ; let it boil 
until it becomes somewhat thick like sirup, keep stirring to prevent 
its burning ; then fill it into small jars. Use for glazing large pieces 
of roast meat, fish, and cotelettes. It may also be used for sauces 
when they are not strong enough. If the glaze is to be kept for 
some time, melt some suet and pour a few spoonfuls of it over the 
glaze when cold ; it will keep for some time. When the glaze is to 
be used remove the suet, melt the glaze by setting the jar in a vessel 
of hot water; dip a small brush in the glaze, and brush the article 
which is to be glazed over with it. If the glaze is wanted of a light 
color, only veal and chicken should be used. If only a small quan- 
tity of glaze is wanted, any kind of stock, boiled down, will be found 
to produce a very good glaze. 

Consomm6 with Rice. — Place a soup kettle with a shank of 
beef 2Y2 pounds in weight over the fire ; cover with cold water ; 
when it boils, add 1 leek, 1 small carrot, and Yo tablespoohf ul salt ; 
cut 3 large onions into thick slices ; wipe off the cover of the stove ; 
lay the onions on top the cover, and let them get dark brown on 
both sides ; then add them to the soup ; cover and boil slowly from 
2 to 3 hours. In the meantime parboil for 5 minutes 1 cupful 
well- washed rice ; drain and rinse it off with cold water ; return the 



SOUPS, Etc. 5 

rice to the saucepan ; add Yg tablespoonf ul butter, 1 pint of water, 
and 1 even teaspoonf ul salt ; cook slowly till done ; then put the 
rice into a buttered form, and set it in a warm place. Shortly be- 
fore serving, strain the soup through a napkin ; season to taste with 
salt ; pour it into the tureen ; turn the rice out of form and serve 
it with the soup. 

Consomme with Sago. — Boil 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls sago in 
2 quarts of stock for 10 minutes ; put some fine-chopped parsley 
in the tureen, and pour the soup over it Farina may be used the 
same way. 

Consomme aux Ravioles. — Mix the yolks of 4 eggs with 
flour into a stiff paste ; work the paste on to a floured board till it 
does not stick to the hands ; then divide it into 2 parts, roll each 
part out into a sheet as thin as paper, prepare a chicken forcemeat, 
with few spoonfuls grated Parmesan cheese ; place with a teaspoon 
small portions on one of the sheets, one inch apart ; dip a small 
brush into cold water, and brush around each portion ; lay the 
remaining sheet over; press the two sheets around the forcemeat 
together with the wrong side of a cutter, then cut them out with a 
larger cutter, and place them on a floured board ; 15 minutes before 
serving drop into boiling salted water and cook 10 minutes ; then 
remove with a skimmer and lay in the tureen ; pour 3 pints of con- 
somme over ; serve with grated Parmesan cheese. 

Consomme aux Ravioles a la Genoise. — Prepare 13 ravi- 
oles the same as in foregoing recipe ; after they are boiled, drain 
them on a sieve ; melt 2 ounces of butter in a deep frying pan, let 
it get light brown ; add the ravioles ; sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls 
grated Parmesan cheese ; shake them to and fro for a few minutes ; 
serve them in a hot dish ; pour 3 pints of hot consomme in a 
tureen and send it to the table with the ravioles. 

Consomme aux Crotltes Gratinees.— Cut the rind from a 
large loaf of Vienna bread into round pieces, dry them in the 
oven ; spread a dish thickly with butter ; put in the crust ; pour 



6 SOUPS, Etc. 

over a few spoonfuls consomme ; lay over the top small pieces of 
butter, sprinkle over 3 tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan cheese ; place 
the dish for 10 minutes in a hot oven ; if the crust should be too 
dry add a little consomm6 ; put 3 pints consomme in the tureen ; 
add Y2 pint of boiled asparagus tops ; place the dish with the crust 
into a silver dish, and serve it with the consomme. 

Consomme aux Proflteroles. — Place 1 cup milk with 2 
ounces butter over the fire; as soon as it boils add 4 ounces flour; 
stir until it forms into a smooth paste, then remove ; when nearly 
cold mix it with the yolks of 3 eggs, and last the beaten whites ; 
put this mixture into a pastry bag ; squirt small portions, the size 
of a walnut, on to buttered pans, brush them over with beaten egg, 
and bake in oven till done. Prepare a chicken forcemeat from the 
breast of 1 young chicken ; mix it with 2 tablespoonfuls Parmesan 
cheese ; open the proflteroles on the sides, and flll them with the 
forcemeat ; return to oven, bake 10 minutes, and serve on a plate; 
put Ya pi^it cooked cauliflower roses and green peas in the tureen ; 
pour 3 pints hot consomme over, and serve with the proflteroles. 

Consomme aux Proflteroles a I'ltalienne.— Bake the 

proflteroles the same as in foregoing recipes, but a little larger; cut 
from the top a small piece ; flll them with the preparation men- 
tioned below ; prepare 1 cupful chicken forcemeat of Yg the breast 
of a young chicken, season the remaining half with little salt, and 
place it with the chicken liver in a saucepan ; add 1 ounce butter 
and 6 flne-cut mushrooms ; cover and cook till done, without brown- 
ing ; then mix it with the forcemeat and use it as directed above. 
Place them in a dish ; add little consomme and a small piece of 
butter or bouillon fat ; cover with grated Parmesan cheese, and 
bake 15 minutes. Serve the consoram^ in a tureen ; set the dish 
with the proflteroles in a silver dish, and serve with the consomme. 

Consomme with Kaiser-Nockerl. — Place a saucepan with 
Y2 cup milk over the flre ; add Ys tablespoonful butter, little salt, 
and nutmeg ; as soon as it boils add Y2 cup of flour ; stir till it 



SOUPS, Etc. Y 

forms into a smootli paste ; remove, and when nearly cold add the 
yolks of 2 eggs, 1 whole egg, and 1 heaping tablespoonful Parme- 
san cheese ; form this with 2 teaspoons into small, long-shaped 
dumplings ; drop them into boiling salted water ; cook 6 minutes ; 
remove with a skimmer, and put them with 3 pints of hot con- 
somme in a tureen and serve. 

Consomme au Riz a la Turque.— Cover 6 ounces rice in 
a saucepan with boiling water, cook 5 minutes ; then drain on a 
sieve, rinse off with boiling water, spread the rice out on a napkin ; 
let it remain 30 minutes ; then melt in a saucepan 3 ounces butter ; 
add the rice ; cook and stir 5 minutes ; add 1 pint white bouillon, 
Yi teaspoonful saffron ; put the rice into a double boiler, and cook 
till done ; the rice should be dry and the kernels whole when done. 
Shortly before serving, melt 2 ounces butter ; let it remain till light 
brown ; turn the rice on to a long dish, pour over the butter, mix it 
lightly with 2 forks ; put it in a dish, and serve with consomme. 

Consomme Gartonre a I'ltalienne. — Remove the outer green 
leaves from a small head of cabbage, and quarter it ; then put it 
into a saucepan with boiling water, and cook 15 minutes. Throw 
away the water? and fill up the saucepan with white stock ; lay 6 
small sausages on top of the cabbage ; cover the saucepan tightly, 
and boil half an hour. At the same time boil in another vessel 6 
carrots and 6 small white onions in water, with a little sugar, until 
tender ; have also 8 or 10 pieces of toast prepared, without the rind ; 
then lay a layer of toast in a deep dish ; drain, and cut the cabbage 
into small pieces and the sausages into slices, also the carrots ; place 
first some cabbage, then some slices of sausages, carrots, and onions 
over the layer of toast in the dish ; put over this a layer of grated 
cheese, and then toast, cabbage, sausages, carrots, onions, and cheese 
again ; cover the whole with toast ; pour some of the liquor the 
vegetables were boiled in over all ; sprinkle some grated cheese over 
the top ; bake 15 to 20 minutes in the oven ; and then serve with 
clear bouillon, or fine consomme. 



8 SOUPS, Etc. 

Consomme a I'ltalienne.— Mix in a small saucepan V2 cup- 
ful flour with Ya cupful milk ; add 1 ounce of butter, 3 tablespoon- 
f uls grated Parmesan cheese, a little salt and pepper and nutmeg ; 
stir this over the fire until the contents of saucepan has formed into 
a smooth paste ; remove it from the fire ; add the yolk of 1 egg, 1 
whole egg, and Y2 teaspoonf ul chopped parsley ; turn a sheet of 
writing paper in the shape of a funnel ; cut a small piece from the 
end V4 inch in diameter and fill the above mixture into the funnel ; 
close the large end the same as you would a paper with sugar or 
tea ; butter a tin plate ; then with a gentle pressure force the paste 
out in the shape of large peas. This is done with a sudden Jerk of 
the wrist. As soon as the paper is covered with these fragments of 
paste, which must not touch one another, have 3 pints of boiling 
consomme or stock over the fire ; hold the plate for a few minutes 
over the fire and then let them slide into the soup ; cook 5 minutes, 
and serve with grated Parmesan cheese. 

Consomme Milanaise. — Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a 
saucepan; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onions, Ys fine- 
chopped green pepper, 1 fine-bruised garlic, 6 fine-chopped mush- 
rooms (or some dried mushrooms, previously soaked in cold water), 
2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped boiled ham ; cook 6 minutes ; then 
add 1 can tomatoes or 8 fresh tomatoes ; season with 1 tablespoonful 
sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, Ys teaspoonf ul pepper ; cook 30 minutes ; 
at the same time put a half package of spaghetti into boiling 
water, add Y2 tablespoonful salt, and boil till tender, about 25 min- 
utes ; then drain it on a sieve ; cut the spaghetti into pieces 1 inch 
long and return it to saucepan ; add 2 ounces butter in small pieces, 
shake the saucepan to and fro, till both ingredients are well mixed ; 
then place the spaghetti in alternate layers in a dish with the toma- 
toes, and 4 ounces grated Parmesan cheese ; mix the whole well to- 
gether with a fork and serve with consomme. 

Consomme an Risotto a I'ltalienne.— Wash 1 cup of rice ; 
put it in a saucepan ; cover with boiling water ; boil 5 minutes ; 



SOUPS, Etc. ^ 9 

then drain, rinse with boiling water, spread the rice on a nap- 
kin for a few minutes; melt 2 ounces of butter in a saucepan, 
add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped white onion, cook 6 minutes 
without browning ; add the rice, stir for 5 minutes ; then add 1 
pint white bouillon ; place the saucepan into another vessel of 
boiling water, cover and cook till tender, but so that the kernels 
stay whole ; turn the rice on to a long dish, add 2 ounces butter 
broken into small pieces, 1 teaspoonful liquid beef extract, and 4 
ounces grated Parmesan cheese ; mix it lightly with 2 forks with- 
out breaking the rice ; put the rice into small buttered timbale 
forms; set them for 10 minutes into hot water; then turn them 
out on to a plate, and serve with 3 pints of hot consomme. 

Consomme St. Helaire. — Select a young chicken of 2Y3 
pounds; clean and wash it quickly in cold water, place it in a 
saucepan, cover with cold water ; add Yg tablespoonf ul salt ; as soon 
as it boils add 2 leeks, 1 onion, 2 blades of mace, and 2 sprigs of 
parsley ; cover and boil till the chicken is tender ; remove it, cut 
the breast into small pieces, and put the meat in the tureen ; strain 
the broth, remove the fat ; beat the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth, 
mix them with little cold water ; add them to the soup, stir and 
boil 5 minutes ; then strain through a napkin ; put 1 cupful cooked 
green peas and Y2 cupful cooked rice in the tureen ; pour the soup 
over it, and serve with grated cheese. 

Consomme Avith Potato Dumplings. — Prepare a consomme 
"as directed. Boil 2 large potatoes with their skins, and when 
cold peel and grate them ; stir Y2 ounce of butter to a cream, add 
the yolks of 2 eggs, a little salt, a sprinkle of nutmeg, and Ys 
teaspoonful of farina ; when this is well mixed add the grated 
potatoes, and form with 2 teaspoons small dumplings the size of a 
pigeon egg ; strain the consomme, return it to the saucepan, and 
as soon as it boils again put in the dumplings and cook 5 minutes. 
Place in the tureen a little fine-chopped celery and some chopped 
parsley ; pour over this the boiling soup. The dumplings may be 



10 SOUPS, Etc. 

boiled in salted water, then placed in the tureen, and the soup 
poured over them. 

Consomme a la Brunoise. — Peel and scrape 1 large carrot 
and 1 white turnip ; cut the red part from the carrot into small 
dicelike pieces the size of peas ; cut the turnip, some celery, 1 white 
onion, and 1 leek the same way ; place the leek and onion with Yg 
ounce of butter over the fire ; cook 5 minutes ; place the remaining 
vegetables in a saucepan, cover with boiling water ; cook 3 minutes, 
drain in a sieve, and add them to the onion and leek ; cover with 
consomme and cook till tender ; then add 3 pints consomme, boil 
slowly 10 minutes, remove all fat, season if necessary with salt ; Yg 
cupful young green peas, previously boiled in water with a little 
sugar, may be added if handy. 

Consomme with Macaroni and Tomatoes. — Remove the 
skin from 6 large fresh tomatoes, and cut them into pieces ; melt 1 
ounce butter in saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut onion, the 
same of fine-cut ham, a bouquet, and 8 whole black peppers; cook 
and stir 5 minutes ; then add the tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 
teaspoonful sugar, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cook 20 minutes; remove 
from fire, mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Ys cup cream, add it to the 
tomatoes ; then strain through a sieve ; boil 4 ounces macaroni in 
salted water, drain in a sieve, and cut into small pieces ; place them 
in a saucepan, toss for few minutes over the fire, add 2 ounces grated 
Parmesan cheese and the tomatoes ; mix them carefully together, 
put them in a dish, and pour the consomme in a tureen. 

Consomme with CJarhure aux Laitues.— Remove the outer 
leaves from 4 large round heads of lettuce ; wash the lettuce in 
cold water and place in a saucepan ; cover with boiling water, 
add Y2 tablespoonf ul salt, and boil 5 minutes ; drain on a sieve ; 
cool them in cold water, then press them out, and return the lettuce 
to saucepan ; cover with consomme ; add 2 small onions, and cook 
till tender ; then remove the lettuce, lay it on a napkin, and cut each 
head into two, remove the thick veins ; cut 8 thin slices of bread, 



SOUPS, Etc. H 

remove the riud, and toast it light brown ; then butter it ; lay them 
alternately with the salad in a dish ; strain the salad broth over it ; 
add little more consomme ; sprinkle 4 tablespoonfuls grated Par- 
mesan cheese over the top and bake 30 minutes in medium hot 
oven ; serve the salad in the same dish, with 3 pints of consomme 
in the tureen. 

Bouillon with Rice. — Place in a saucepan over the fire Yg 
pound of rice; cover with cold water, and let it boil for a few 
minutes ; pour it into a sieve and rinse off with cold water. While 
the rice is draining fry 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped onion in 1 
ounce butter without browning ; add this to the rice and let it re- 
main on the stove for 5 minutes, shaking the saucepan all the time ; 
then pour 1 quart of bouillon over the rice, and boil without stir- 
ring until tender. The kernels of the rice must be whole when 
done, and great care should be taken that the rice does not get too 
dry, and if it does some more bouillon should be added. When 
done take the rice from the fire ; mix it carefully with 1 ounce but- 
ter and 2 ounces of grated Parmesan cheese. Put the rice in a deep 
dish, cover with a layer of grated cheese, and set for a few minutes 
in the oven. Pour the bouillon in the tureen, and serve with the 
rice. Another way is to prepare the rice the same way, omitting the 
onion and cheese. Shortly before serving mix 1 ounce butter and a 
little saffron with the rice. 

Royal Soup.— In a soup kettle put 2 pounds shank of beef, 
some veal bones, and, if handy, some poultry trimming ; cover with 
cold water, add Vs tablespoonful salt; then place the kettle over 
the fire. While this comes to a boil cut 2 large onions into thick 
slices, lay them on a tin pan, set the pan in a hot oven until the 
onions are dark brown ; then add them with 1 small carrot, 1 leek, 
and a bouquet to the soup ; cover the kettle and boil slowly 2 hours. 
In the meantime mix 3 well-beaten eggs with 3 tablespoonfuls of 
water and 3 tablespoonfuls milk ; season with Y^ teaspoonful nut- 
meg and the same of salt ; pour the mixture into a small buttered 



12 SOUPS, Etc. 

bowl. Twenty minutes before serving place tbe bowl in a pan of 
water, so it reaches half way up the bowl ; set it in the oven to bake 
until the custard is firm to the touch ; then remove. Strain the 
soup through a napkin; remove the fat; add, if necessary, more 
salt ; pour the soup in a tureen ; cut with a teaspoon small portions 
from the custard ; drop them into the soup, and serve. In case the 
oven is not hot enough to brown the onions, lay them on top of the 
stove and brown them on both sides. 

Julienne Soup. — One large carrot, some white celery, 1 white 
turnip, 1 leek, 1 white onion, some Savoy cabbage, the white part of 
a head of lettuce, and, if handy, take 2 leaves of sorrel and little 
chervil ; cut the carrot into slices 1 inch in thickness ; peel off the 
red part, lay the red strips over one another, and cut them into fine 
strips like straws ; peel and cut the turnips into slices, lay 3 or 4 
slices over one another and cut them the same way ; cut the remain- 
ing vegetables in the same manner. Place the fine-cut onion and 
leek in a saucepan with Yg ounce butter over the fire, and cook 5 
minutes without browning ; place the remaining vegetables in a 
saucepan, cover with boiling water, boil 5 minutes, drain in a sieve, 
and then add them to the onion and leek. Shake to and fro for a 
few minutes, and add sufficient consomme to cover; add Y2 tea- 
spoonful sugar, and let it cook slowly. AVhen done add 3 pints con- 
somme, cook 10 minutes longer ; season with the necessary salt, and 
serve. 

Spring Soup. — Cut 1 leek, 1 head of lettuce, and 1 white 
onion into fine slices; cover with boiling water, and boil them 2 
minutes ; then drain off the water ; return the vegetables to the 
saucepan; add 1 tablespoonful butter, cook 5 minutes; then add 1 
cupful cauliflower roses, 1 cupful asparagus tops, Yg cupful fine-cut 
carrots, Ys cupful fine-cut white turnips, Y2 cupful fine-cut young 
wax beans, 1 cupful fresh green peas ; cover with consomme ; season 
with 1 teaspoonful salt and Y2 teaspoonful sugar, and boil till ten- 
der ; then add 3 pints of consomme, a little Cayenne pepper, and 
season to taste with salt and pepper. 



SOUPS, Etc. 13 

Soup a la Printaniere. — Put a small knuckle of veal and 
some poultry giblets into a soup kettle ; add Yg tablespoonf ul salt, 
cover with cold water ; place the kettle over the fire ; as soon as it 
boils add 1 onion, 2 leeks, 1 carrot, 1 white turnip, and a bouquet, 
cover and boil 2 hours. In the meantime place a saucepan with 1 
tablespoonf ul butter over the fire ; add 1 cupful fine-shredded cab- 
bage, Yg cupful fine-cut leeks, the same of celery, white turnips, 
white onions, and carrots, cook and stir 5 minutes ; then strain the 
broth ; add it to the vegetables, with 1 tablespoonf ul rice, IY2 cupful 
tomatoes ; cook 40 minutes ; add Y2 pi^^ fine-cut veal meat, and 
serve. 

Asparagus Soup. — Place a saucepan with 1 pint fine-cut aspara- 
gus over the fire ; add Y2 tablespoonf ul butter and 1 cup white 
broth, of veal or chicken ; boil gently till done -, add 3 pints broth, 
boil 2 minutes ; season to taste, and serve. 

Spring Herb Soup. — Place a saucepan with a shank of veal 
over the fire, cover with cold water (if at hand, add some poultry 
trimmings) ; as soon as it boils add Ys tablespoonful salt, 1 carrot, 
a little celery, 2 onions, 1 leek, and 1 white turnip ; cook slowly 2 
hours ; then strain, and remove all the fat. In the meantime wash 
and cut fine a small handful of sorrel, 1 head of lettuce, small hand- 
ful of chervil and dandelion, and a little balm ; place them in a 
saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter ; cook 10 minutes, stirring all 
the time; then add lYg quart of the veal broth; cook slowly 30 
minutes; and, if necessary, add more salt. Five minutes before 
serving mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Ys cup cream, add them to the 
soup with Y4 teaspoonful grated nutmeg and Y2 teaspoonful sugar. 
(Do not allow the soup to boil after the yolks have been added.) 
Serve with duchess crust prepared as follows : Cut the crust from a 
loaf of bread into strips, then cut into rounds with a small cutter 
the size of a 25-cent piece, and dry them in the oven. 

Soup a la Chesterfield. — Eemove the meat from the breast 
of a well-cleaned chicken, chop it fine, and set aside ; cut the remain- 



14 SOUPS, Etc. 

ing chicken into pieces ; place it in a soup kettle, with 1 pound of 
beef and 1 pound of veal ; cover with cold water ; set the kettle 
over a moderate fire ; as soon as it commences to boil add 1 onion, 1 
leek, a bouquet, and Yg tablespoonf ul salt ; cover and boil slowly. 
In the meantime put into a small saucepan Yg pint sherry wine, 2 
cloves, Y4 teaspoonful of thyme or 1 sprig of thyme, 1 blade of 
mace, cover tightly, and simmer 30 minutes; place in another 
small saucepan 2 ounces of tapioca, previously soaked in cold water ; 
cover with cold water; add 1 teaspoonful butter, Y* teaspoonful 
salt; set over moderate fire, and cook till soft. Soak 2 ounces of 
bread in cold water, j)ress it out in a towel, put it with 1 ounce 
butter in a small saucepan, stir this over the fire 5 minutes ; trans- 
fer it to a dish, and when cold add the chopped chicken meat men- 
tioned above ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoon- 
ful pepper, Y4 teaspoonful nutmeg ; add the yolks of 2 eggs and the 
2 whites beaten to a stiff froth. Divide this forcemeat into 3 parts, 
leave 1 part white, add to the second part 1 tablespoonf ul crab but- 
ter, and mix the third part with 2 tablespoonfuls fine-minced 
truffles; form the 3 parts, each separately, into small balls, like 
marbles. When the chicken is done, transfer it to a hot dish, 
remove the fat from the soup, season with salt, if necessary. 
Strain the soup ; return it to kettle again ; set it over the fire ; 
strain the wine essence through a napkin, add it to the soup ; add 
the boiled tapioca; boil the whole slowly 10 minutes; drop the 
forcemeat balls into boiling salted water, or meat broth, cook 5 
minutes ; remove with a skimmer, lay them in the tureen, and pour 
the soup over it. If at hand, Y2 pi^t of turtle meat cuf into inch- 
sized pieces, dipped in beaten egg, and covered with bread crumbs 
fried in butter, and, after laying on blotting paper to absorb the 
grease, may be added to the soup when ready to serve. 

Tegetable Soup. — Place a soup kettle with a shank of beef 
weighing about 2 pounds over the fire ; cover with 2 quarts cold 
water; add Y2 tablespoonful salt; cover closely and boil slowly 
from 2 to 3 hours. In the meantime prepare the vegetables; Ys 



SOUPS, Etc. 15 

cupful fine-cut carrots, Y2 cupful fine-cut white turnips, Y2 cupful 
fine-cut celery, Yg cupful fine-cut onions, the same of potatoes and 
cabbage, Y2 cupful canned tomatoes (or 1 chopped tomato) ; place 
the vegetables in a saucepan over the fire; add sufficient boiling 
broth from the meat to cover them ; cover and boil slowly till done, 
which will take 1 hour. Shortly before serving transfer the meat 
to a hot plate, strain the soup, remove all the fat, add the vege- 
tables, season with Ys teaspoonful pepper, and, if necessary, add 
more salt. The meat may be served with horse-radish or onion 
sauce. 

Italian Tegetalble Soup (Menestra).— Cut fine 2 medium- 
sized carrots, 1 onion, 1 stalk of celery, a quarter of a cabbage; 
place a saucepan with 2 ounces of butter over the fire, add the 
vegetables, and cook 10 minutes ; then add 1 tablespoonf ul rice, 2 
quarts of stock, 1 teaspoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful pepper; boil 
slowly, well covered, 1 hour ; serve with grated cheese. 

Mongole Soup. — Place a saucepan with Ys pi^t of dried peas 
over the fire ; cover with cold beef stock ; boil till tender, and then 
press them through a sieve ; cut 1 medium-sized, well-cleaned carrot 
into thin slices, lay several slices over one another, and cut into 
strips like straws ; cut 1 white onion the same way, and add to this 
1 fine-cut leek; place the vegetables over the fire with 1 table- 
spoonful butter, cook 10 minutes ; then cover with 1 pint of boiling 
stock and cook till tender. Stew Ys can tomatoes with Ys table- 
spoonful butter, Ys teaspoonful salt, Yi teaspoonful pepper, and 1 
teaspoonful sugar for 20 minutes, and then strain. As soon as 
the vegetables are done add the pea puree, the strained tomatoes, 
and 1 quart of good stock ; cook for few minutes ; season to taste 
and serve. 

Gumbo Soup. — Put a shank of veal and some poultry trim- 
mings in a soup kettle ; cover with cold water ; add Ys tablespoon- 
ful salt; set the kettle over moderate fire; as soon as it boils add 1 
carrot, 1 onion, 1 leek, and a bouquet; cover and boil slowly 2 



16 SOUPS, Etc. 

hours ; when the soup is done, strain it and remove the fat, fry 1 
fine-cut onion in 1 tablespoonful butter light brown ; add 2 table- 
spoonfuls fine-cut raw ham, 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut green pep- 
pers ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonf ul pepper ; add 1 
tablespoonful rice, Y2 pint sliced ocher, 1 fine-cut tomato ; cover 
with 3 pints of soup stock, described above, and boil 30 minutes ; 
add about 1 cupful fine-cut frog meat, cook 10 minutes. In 
place of frog meat, crab, lobster, or shrimp meat may be taken, 
and sometimes chicken or veal is used. 

Soup a PItalieime. — Cut Yg of a young chicken into inch- 
sized pieces, place the meat in a saucepan over the fire; add 2 
ounces butter, 1 fine-cut carrot, 1 small green pepper without the 
seeds, 1 onion, and Ys cupful fine-cut raw ham ; fry and stir for 
10 minutes; cover Y4 cupful rice with boiling water, let stand 3 
minutes; drain off the water and again put the rice into boiling 
water for 2 minutes ; then drain, add it to the soup with Ys cupful 
canned tomatoes, and cover the whole with 2 quarts of soup stock. 
Put 2 ounces of macaroni into boiling water, cook 2 minutes; 
drain, cut into pieces, and add it to the soup with Ys teaspoonful 
pepper and 1 teaspoonful salt, and cook slowly 40 minutes. Before 
sending to table taste, and if necessary add more salt. 

Soup de Mouton a I'Anglaise.— Place a leg of mutton or 
lamb in a soup kettle ; add 1 tablespoonful salt, 2 onions, and pour 
over enough boiling water to cover the meat ; let it boil slowly until 
done ; then take out the meat, cut Y2 pound of it into small, thin 
pieces, lay the large piece of meat in a dish with some of the broth, 
and keep it warm. At the same time boil 3 tablespoonfuls of bar- 
ley in a small saucepan in some of the mutton broth, until tender ; 
also cut into small pieces 2 carrots, 2 small white turnips, 2 
branches of soup celery, and 2 leeks ; place them for a few minutes 
in boiling water ; drain in a colander ; return to saucepan agaiu, 
with a piece of butter and a little sugar ; cover with some of the 
mutton broth, and boil the vegetables tender ; strain the mutton 



SOUPS, Etc. 17 

broth, skim off the fat ; return to kettle again and add the fine-cut 
meat, the barley, and vegetables ; let boil for a few minutes, and 
then serve. The vegetables may be put in the tureen, and the soup 
poured over them. The mutton is served with caper sauce. 

Tomato Soup. — Place a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful drip- 
pings, poultry fat, or butter, over the fire; add 2 tablespoonfuls 
fine-cut carrots, the same of fine-cut onions and celery ; add also 3 
cloves, 6 whole peppers, 1 bay leaf, and a small sprig of thyme ; stir 
this for 10 minutes over the fire ; then add 1 tablespoonful flour, 
continue the stirring for a few minutes ; then add 1 can tomatoes, 
stir, and let it cook 15 minutes ; season with 1 even tablespoonful 
salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, and 1 teaspoonful sugar; continue 
the boiling for a few minutes ; strain through a sieve ; add 1 quart 
of stock; season to taste, and serve either -with small dice of bread 
fried brown in butter, or add 1 cupful boiled spaghetti cut into 
small pieces. Another way is to add 1 cupful boiled rice or 2 table- 
spoonfuls sago, and boil 10 minutes with the soup ; or soak 2 table- 
spoonfuls of tapioca for 2 hours in cold water, add it to the soup, 
and boil slowly 20 minutes. 

Tomato Cream Soup.— Place a saucepan with Vg cupful fine- 
chopped onion over the fire; add 2 ounces butter, cook 5 min- 
utes without browning; then add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and 
cook 2 minutes ; add 1 can of tomatoes, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 tea- 
spoonful salt, Yi teaspoonful pepper, cook 10 minutes, stirring fre- 
quently ; add Vj^ pint of white stock, or broth, cook 10 minutes ; 
then press the soup through a sieve into a clean saucepan ; return 
the soup to the fire, let it get boiling hot ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs 
with Y2 pint of cream, add it to the soup, and serve at once. Care 
must be taken not to add the cream and yolks until just before 
serving. Serve with bread croutons. 

Tomato Soup without Meat.— Melt 1 ounce butter in a 
saucepan ; add 2 fine-chopped onions, stir and cook 5 minutes with- 
out browning ; add 1 can of tomatoes, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 tea- 



18 SOUPS, Etc. 

spoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper ; cook 15 minutes ; then press 
the tomatoes through a sieve into a clean saucepan ; at the same 
time boil 1 pint of milk, with y, ounce butter, mix 1 tablespoonful 
flour with 1 gill of cold milk ; add it to the boiling milk ; stir and 
cook 3 minutes ; add the tomatoes, and serve at once. Serve oyster 
crackers with it. 

Tomato Soup with Egg Balls. — Place a saucepan with 1 
tablespoonful hutter, 1 bay leaf, 12 whole peppers, and 1 fine- 
chopped onion over the fire, cook 5 minutes without browning; 
add 2 tablespoonfuls rolled crackers, 1 can of tomatoes, 1 tea- 
spoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful sugar, Yg even teaspoonful pepper, 
cook 15 minutes ; add Yg pint of boiling water ; press the tomatoes 
through a sieve into a clean saucepan. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 
Ya pint of cream ; add it to the soup ; place 12 egg balls (mentioned 
below) in the tureen, and pour the soup over. Grate 2 hard-boiled 
eggs ; mix them with Ys ounce melted butter and the yolk of 1 
egg ; season with a little salt and nutmeg ; form it into 12 small 
balls like marbles ; roll them in flour ; drop them into boiling 
salted water, cook 5 minutes ; then remove, and lay them in the 
tureen. 

Corn and Tomato Soup without Meat.— Melt 2 ounces 
butter in a saucepan; add 2 fine-cut onions, 1 bay leaf, and 12 
whole peppers ; cook 5 minutes without browning ; add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 can of tomatoes, 1 
tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, Yi teaspoonful white pepper, 
stir often, and cook 10 minutes ; add 1 pint of boiling water, cook 
5 minutes ; then press the tomatoes through a sieve into a clean 
saucepan ; cut the corn from 6 young ears of green corn, add it to 
the soup, and boil 10 minutes ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Ys cup- 
ful cream or 2 tablespoonfuls unsweetened condensed milk ; add it 
to the soup, and serve at once. 

Tomato Corn Soup. — Place a saucepan with 2 ounces butter 
and Ys cupful fine-chopped onions over the fire ; add 1 bay leaf, 12 



SOUPS, Etc. 19 

whole peppers, cook 5 minutes without browning ; add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 can of tomatoes, 1 
tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, Yg teaspoonful pepper, stir 
and cook 5 minutes ; then add 1 quart of stock and cook 20 min- 
utes ; strain the soup into a clean saucepan, return it to the fire ; 
when it boils add 1 can of sweet corn, boil 10 minutes ; if necessary 
add more salt ; 5 minutes before serving mix the yolk of 2 eggs 
with % cupful cream, add it to the soup, and serve at once. The 
yolk and cream may be omitted if not handy. Another way is to 
put 3 tablespoonfuls cream into each plate, then fill in the soup. If 
fresh corn is used, cut the corn from the cobs of 6 ears of young 
corn ; and if fresh tomatoes are used, take 8 ripe tomatoes. 

Corn Soup. — Place a soup kettle with a shank of veal over the 
fire ; cover with cold water ; add Yg teaspoonful salt, and place the 
kettle over the fire ; when it begins to boil add 2 onions and a 
bouquet ; cut the corn from 6 ears of young green corn and set it 
aside ; add the cobs to the soup and boil 2 hours ; then remove the 
meat and cobs ; strain the broth into a clean saucepan ; return it to 
the fire ; add the corn, cook 5 minutes ; melt 1 tablespoonful butter 
in a small saucepan ; add 1 tablespoonful flour ; stir and cook a few 
minutes ; add to the soup, continue to cook 5 minutes ; season to 
taste with salt and little white pepper ; add Ys cupful cream or 2 
tablespoonfuls of unsweetened condensed milk, and serve. 

Potato Soup without Meat. — Boil 8 large potatoes (peeled) 
in 1 quart of water with 1 tablespoonful salt ; when done, drain oS 
the water and press the potatoes through a potato presser ; place a 
saucepan with 2 fine-chopped onions and 1 ounce butter over the 
fire ; cook 5 minutes without browning ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, 
stir and cook 2 minutes ; then add 3 pints of boiling water, a bou- 
quet, and Yg cupful fine-cut celery, cook 30 minutes ; then strain 
into a clean saucepan ; mix the potatoes with lYg cupful hot milk 
and 1 ounce butter ; then add them to the soup, boil 5 minutes ; add 
last 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley and a little fine-chopped 



20 SOUPS, Etc. 

celery, then serve. The soup should not be allowed to boil after 
the parsley is added. 

Mingle Mengle Soup. — Place a saucepan with 2 well-washed 
necks of mutton over the fire ; cover with 3 quarts cold water ; as 
soon as it boils add a bouquet, 2 fine-cut onions, some celery, and 1 
leek ; season with Yg tablespoonful salt ; cover and boil 2 hours. 
Boil 1 tablespoonful barley in a small saucepan in water with a 
little butter ; put 1 quart well- washed spinach into boiling water ; 
add 1 teaspoonful salt, boil 10 minutes ; then drain in colander, 
press out all the water, chop it very fine. As soon as the meat is 
done take it out, strain the soup into a clean saucepan, remove the 
fat ; add the barley and Yg pint green peas ; then boil gently 15 
minutes. Put the spinach in a saucepan, add Ys tablespoonful 
butter, a little nutmeg, and 2 tablespoonfuls cream ; cook and stir 
for few minutes ; then add it to the soup ; add last 1 tablespoonful 
fine-chopped parsley ; season to taste with salt and pepper. 

Chiffliiade Soup. — Stew 1 quart young shelled peas in 2 cups 
of water, with Y* pound ham, 1 tablespoonful butter, 2 small whole 
onions till tender ; then take the meat and onions out, pour the 
peas into a colander, drain, and press them through a sieve with a 
spoon ; return the peas to the saucepan ; add 2 quarts stock and 
boil slowly 10 minutes. In the meantime cut 2 heads of lettuce 
very fine ; stew them with 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 tablespoon- 
fuls bouillon, till tender ; add them to the soup, and serve with 
little square pieces of toast. If necessary add more salt and serve. 

Dried-Bean Soup. — Place in a saucepan over the fire 1 pint 
of well-washed dried beans, covered with cold water ; add 1 tea- 
spoonful baking soda, boil 15 minutes ; then drain in colander ; 
rinse off with cold water ; place them with 2 pounds beef or 1 
pound salt pork, some bones, and 3 quarts cold water, over the fire ; 
add as soon as this boils some salt (if fresh meat is used), also some 
celery, 2 onions, and 3 or 4 well-cleaned and finely-cut carrots ; boil 
slowly until the beans are tender, which will take from 2 to 3 hours ; 



SOUPS, Etc. 21 

strain the soup through a coarse sieve, taking care that the carrots 
are pressed through with the beans, as they give the soup a hand- 
some color ; season to taste with salt ; let the soup get boiling hot 
again, and serve. Some prefer not to have the soup strained ; in 
such cases, take only 1 carrot, some celery, and 2 onions. If the 
beans are soaked overnight, the parboiling with baking soda is not 
necessary. 

Lentil Soup (Oerman Linsen). — Place 1 pint well- washed 
lentils in a saucepan over the fire ; cover with cold water ; boil 15 
minutes ; then drain them in colander, rinse off with water ; return 
the lentils in a soup kettle to the fire ; add 2 pounds shank of beef, 
cover with cold water ; add ^g tablespoonful salt, and boil slowly for 
lYa hour, removing all the scum ; then add some fine-chopped celery, 
some onions, and a soupplate full of fine-cut potatoes ; boil until 
done and serve with fried sausages or boiled Frankfurter, or boil the 
parboiled lentils until done ; press them through a colander or 
coarse sieve ; have some fried sausages cut into slices, put them in 
the tureen, pour the soup over them, and serve. 

Pea Soup with Pigs' Feet. — Soak Yg pint well-washed dried 
peas in cold water over night ; place a soup kettle with 2 salted pigs' 
feet over the fire ; cover with cold water ; boil 15 minutes ; then 
drain in colander, rinse off with cold water ; return the feet to the 
soup kettle again, cover with 2 quarts cold water ; add 1 fine-cut 
onion, 1 carrot, and little soup celery ; drain the peas, add them to 
the soup ; cover the kettle and boil slowly till the peas and feet are 
done. Shortly before serving take out the pigs' feet, cut the meat 
into small pieces, and set it in a warm place with little of the 
soup ; strain the soup through a coarse sieve, season to taste ; add 
the fine-cut meat and serve. The soup may be served without being 
strained, if liked. 

Split-Pea Soup. — Place a soup kettle with a shank of beef, 
weighing V-j^ pound, over the fire ; cover with cold water ; add 1 
pint of well-washed split peas and Y2 tablespoonful salt ; as soon as 



22 SOUPS, Etc. 

it boils add 1 cupful fine-cut celery, 1 onion, 1 small carrot, and a 
bouquet ; cover and boil slowly till the meat is tender, about 2 or 3 
hours ; then remove the meat ; press the soup through a sieve, re- 
turn it to the saucepan ; if too thick add a little boiling water, boil 
a few minutes ; season to taste with salt and pepper and serve 
with croutons or small square pieces of toast. 

Kidney Soup. — Cut 1 beef kidney into slices ; season with Yg 
tablespoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper ; dust over some flour ; 
melt Yg tablespoonful butter and Y2 tablespoonful lard or fat in a 
saucepan ; add the kidneys and Y2 cupful fine-cut carrots, the same 
of onions ; let this cook 15 minutes, stirring frequently ; then add 
3 pints boiling water and a bouquet; cover and boil slowly 1 
hour ; then strain the soup ; cut the kidney slices into fine strips ; 
add them to the soup; season to; taste with salt and pepper, then 
serve. 

Cril)let Soup. — Pour boiling water over 2 chicken feet ; let 
them lay 1 minute ; then take them out, remove the skin and wash 
them well in cold water ; place the feet with the giblets and neck 
of chicken in saucepan ; add 3 pints cold water, 1 teaspoonful salt ; 
set the saucepan over moderate fire ; as soon as it boils add 1 onion 
and a small bouquet ; cover and boil slowly IY3 hour ; then strain 
the soup into a clean saucepan ; return it to the fire again, and 
when it boils sprinkle in 1 tablespoonful farina ; then melt Y2 table- 
spoonful butter, add Ya tablespoonful flour, stir until it foams ; then 
add it to the soup, boil 10 minutes ; add a little finely-chopped 
parsley, and serve. (Do not allow the soup to boil with the parsley.) 
In place of farina, 1 tablespoonful boiled rice may be added, or 
sponge dumplings may be boiled in the soup ;"also forcemeat balls, 
marrow balls, farina balls, or mix 1 well-beaten egg with Y4 tea- 
spoonful butter and 1 tablespoonful flour; pour this slowly into 
boiling soup and cook 5 minutes ; also fine-cut nudles may be boiled 
in it. 

Mutton Soup. — "Wash a neck of mutton, put it in a saucepan 



SOUPS, Etc. 23 

with 273 quarts cold water ; as soon as it boils add Yg cupful fine-cut 
celery, 2 onions, 1 leek, and Yg tablespoonf ul salt ; cover and boil 
until the meat is tender. In the meantime place a saucepan with 
3 tablespoonf uls barley, covered with cold water, over the fire ; cook 
until tender. Shortly before serving take out the meat ; strain the 
soup ; cut the meat into small pieces, return it to the soup ; add the 
barley ; season to taste with salt, and serve. 

Teal Soup. — Place 2 pounds of veal and some soup bones in a 
saucepan over the fire ; cover with cold water ; add salt, 1 leek, 1 
sliced onion, and a bouquet, and boil slowly till the veal is done ; 
then take out the meat and cut it into pieces ; lay it in the tureen ; 
boil the bones a little while longer. In the meantime melt 1 table- 
spoonful butter in a saucepan, stir in 1 tablespoonful flour, and 
as soon as the flour has absorbed all the butter add it to the soup. 
After boiling the soup for 20 minutes longer, strain, season to taste 
with salt and a little nutmeg, pour it in the tureen over the meat ; 
add some fine-chopped parsley, and serve. 

Soup with Marrow Balls. — Procure 2 pounds of soup meat, 
with a marrow bone, and if at hand add a small piece of liver and 
kidney ; remove the marrow from the bone ; place the meat and 
bone in a soup kettle, cover with cold water, set the kettle over the 
fire ; as soon as it boils add 2 fine-cut onions, 1 leek, 1 white turnip, 
1 small carrot, Yg cupful fine-cut celery, a bouquet, and Ys table- 
spoonful salt ; cover and boil slowly till the meat is done. In the 
meantime rub 1 heaping tablespoonful of marrow to a cream, add 
the yolk of 1 egg, season with Y4 teaspoonful salt, the same of grated 
nutmeg, and 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley ; mix these in- 
gredients well together; then add 3 tablespoonfuls grated bread 
crumbs, add last the white of egg beaten to a stiff froth; form 
this preparation with the hands into 12 small round balls ; when 
the meat is done remove it ; strain the soup into a clean saucepan, 
return it to the fire again ; as soon as it boils add the dumplings ; 
boil 6 minutes ; taste the soup, and if necessary add more salt, and 



24: SOUPS, Etc. 

if not strong enough add little beef extract. The parsley, if not 
handy, may be omitted. 

Niidle Soup. — Place in a saucepan a shank of veal, or take ly? 
pound shank of beef ; cover with cold water ; add 1 teaspoonful 
salt ; set the saucepan over the fire, and when it begins to boil add 
1 fine-cut onion, 2 slices of carrots, 1 leek, little soup celery, and a 
bouquet ; cover and boil 2 hours ; then strain, remove the fat, re- 
turn the soup in saucepan to fire again. Melt in a small frying pan 
Ya tablespoonful butter, add Yg tablespoonful flour, stir until the 
butter has absorbed all the flour, add it to the soup ; as soon as the 
soup boils again sprinkle in Ys the nudles described below, boil 10 
minutes, and serve. 

Nudles. — Mix 1 egg with Ys teaspoonful melted butter (meas- 
ured after it is melted), 1 small tablespoonful water ; add sufficient 
flour to make a stiff paste ; work it 5 minutes on a floured board, 
until it does not stick to the hands any more ; then divide it into 4 
equal parts; roll each part as thin as a sheet of paper ; cut them in 
strips IY2 iiich in width ; dust the strips with flour ; lay 4 strips 
over one another, and cut them fine with a sharp knife like straws. 
When they are all cut in this way sprinkle them over the board and 
let them lay 1 hour ; then sprinkle as many nudles as wanted into 
the boiling soup. This quanity of nudles is sufficient for 4 quarts 
of soup. If not wanted all at one time they may be put away in 
a box. 

Einlauf Soup. — Place a soup kettle over the fire with a' small 
shank of beef, about 2 pounds, or a shank of veal ; cover with cold 
water; add Ys tablespoonful salt; cover and let it come to a boil ; 
then add 2 onions, 1 small carrot, 1 white turnip, 1 leek, a little 
celery, and a bouquet ; cover and boil slowly till the meat is done ; 
then strain the soup into a clean saucepan, return it to the fire ; 
melt Y2 tablespoonful butter, add Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir for few 
minutes ; add it to the soup ; season with a little nutmeg, and if 
necessary add more salt ; boil 5 minutes ; then beat up 1 egg until 



SOUPS, Etc. 25 

light ; add Vs teaspoonful melted butter, 1 tablespoonf ul flour, 1 
tablespoonful milk, a pinch of salt ; hold this over the soup, let it 
run slowly into the boiling soup, cook 3 minutes ; remove from fire, 
add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley, and serve. 

Turkish Soup. — Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan ; add 1 
fine-chopped onion, Yg chopped green pepper, 2 tablespoonf uls fine- 
cut raw ham ; cook and stir 6 minutes ; then add the breast of a 
young chicken cut into small pieces, and 1 teaspoonful curry ; cook 
10 minutes ; then add 2 quarts chicken broth (mentioned below), 1 
tablespoonful rice, 1 cupful canned tomatoes, 1 even teaspoonful 
salt, a little white pepper ; boil slowly about 45 minutes, then serve. 

Chicken Broth. — Put the remaining chicken into a saucepan ; 
cover with cold water ; add 1 teaspoonful salt ; place the saucepan 
over the fire ; as soon as it begins to boil add 2 leeks, 1 onion, 1 
blade of mace, and 2 sprigs of parsley ; cover and boil till the 
chicken is tender ; then strain through a sieve and use as directed 
above. 

Chicken Soup. — Place a well-cleaned chicken in a soup kettle 
covered with cold water over the fire ; as soon as it boils add some 
salt, 1 onion, a bouquet, and 2 leeks ; cover the kettle up tightly 
and let it boil until the chicken is tender, which Avill take about 3 
or 4 hours if the chicken is old, otherwise about 2 hours. When the 
chicken is done take it out and strain the soup ; put the soup back 
into the kettle again and boil in it either parboiled rice, farina, nudles, 
or small dumplings ; shortly before serving add a little fine-chopped 
parsley. The chicken may be served with egg sauce or may be used 
for chicken salad. Another way is to melt a tablespoonful butter in 
a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonf uls flour, and stir until the flour has 
absorbed all the butter ; then add it to the soup. Place also small 
dumplings in the soup and let them boil for 6 minutes, and add 
shortly before serving a little chopped parsely ; cut the chicken into 
8 pieces ; season with salt and pepper ; dip in beaten egg and bread 
crumbs, and fry in butter and lard to a light brown ; pour 1 pint 



26 SOUPS, Etc. 

of Bechamel sauce on a hot dish, arrange the chicken over it, and 
serve. Or prepare a batter of Yo cup flour, 2 eggs (yolks and whites 
beaten separately), 1 cup of milk, and a little salt ; dip the pieces of 
chicken into the batter, fry light brown in boiling fat or ^a hird and 
Ya butter, and serve with maitre dliotel butter. 

Turkey Soup. — This soup is made the same as chicken soup 
and is only recommended when the turkey is too old to be roasted. 

Lark Soup. — Cut the breast from 6 roasted larks ; chop the 
bone into fine pieces and place them with 2 quarts of boiling water 
in a soup kettle over the fire ; fry 1 tablespoonful flour in the butter 
in which the larks were roasted, and keep stirring until the flour 
has absorbed all the butter ; then add some of the bouillon from 
the birds ; let it boil a few minutes and then pour it into the soup, 
and let this boil for 1 hour ; strain the soup ; put it on the fire 
again and boil small sponge dumplings in it. Cut the breast of the 
birds into small pieces ; lay them in the tureen and pour the soup 
over them. If liked, a small glass of Madeira wine may be added. 
Pigeons and chickens can be prepared the same way. 

Chicken Soup a la Maryland. — Remove the breast from a 
young chicken weighing 2Y3 pounds ; put the remaining chicken 
with 2Y2 quarts cold water in a saucepan ; add Y2 tablespoonful 
salt ; set the saucepan over the fire ; as soon as it boils add 1 leek, 
2 onions, and a bouquet ; cook until the chicken is done ; then 
strain the broth through a sieve. In the meantime cut the breast 
of the chicken into small pieces; place it in a saucepan with 1 
ounce of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, the same of 
green pepper, and a little curry ; cook 10 minutes ; then add the 
chicken broth, boil 20 minutes ; add 8 sliced okras, Y2 cup of fresh 
corn, Ys cupful fresh Lima beans ; season with Ys teaspoonf ul pepjier, 
and if necessary add more salt ; cook 40 minutes. 

Chicken Soup a I'ltalienne. — Cut the meat from the breast 
of a young chicken into small pieces ; place the remaining chicken 
in a soup kettle over the fire ; cover with cold water ; add Y2 table- 



SOUPS, Etc. 27 

spoonful salt ; as soon as it boils add a bouquet, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 
and 1 leek ; boil until the chicken is tender ; then strain the broth 
through a fine sieve ; melt in a saucepan 2 ounces butter, add the 
fine-cut breast of chicken, Yg cupful fine-chopped onion, the same 
of fine-chopped green pepper, mushrooms, and ham ; cook 10 min- 
utes ; then add 1 cupful tomatoes and 2 quarts of the chicken 
broth ; season with Vs teaspoonf ul salt, the same of pepper ; cover 
and cook 30 minutes ; taste, and if necessary add more salt ; add 1 
cupful boiled spaghetti, cut into small pieces, and serve with grated 
Parmesan cheese. 

Pigeon Soup for the Sick. — Old pigeons are best for this 
soup. Clean and wash 2 old pigeons ; place them in a saucepan 
with 3 pints of cold water and a little salt over a medium hot fire ; 
cover the saucepan, and let it boil slowly until tender, which will 
take from 1 to 2 hours ; half an hour before serving strain the 
soup ; return it to saucepan ; add 1 tablespoonf ul of farina, or 1 
tablespoonf ul parboiled rice ; let this boil till done ; season to taste, 
then serve. 

Pigeon Soup with Dumplings. — Clean 3 pigeons and place 
them in a saucepan with 2 quarts of water ; as soon as they boil 
add some salt, 1 onion, 1 leek, and a bouquet ; cover the saucepan, 
and let the pigeons boil until done, which will take about 1 hour 
if they are young, and if not, from 2 to 3 hours. In the meantime 
melt Yg tablespoonful butter, add Ys tablespoonful flour, stir for few 
minutes over the fire ; when the pigeons are done take them out ; 
add the flour to the soup, letting it boil for a few minutes ; place in 
a tureen some small farina dumplings, boiled in salted water ; add 
also some fine-chopped parsley ; strain the soup, and pour it over 
the dumplings in the tureen. The pigeons are cut in half and 
served with egg sauce or melted butter. 

Soup with Chicken-forcemeat Dumplings.— Clean and 

wash a medium-size chicken ; cut the meat from the breast and 
chop it fine ; place the remainder of the chicken in a soup kettle with 



28 SOUPS, Etc. 

3 quarts of cold water, some salt, 1 onion, a few leeks, and a bouquet ; 
cover and boil slowly until done. In the meantime make a panada 
as follows : Set a small saucepan with Yg cupful boiling water and 
Y2 tablespoonful butter over the fire ; stir into this 3 tablespoonfuls 
flour and continue stirring until the mixture loosens itself from the 
bottom of the saucepan and has formed into a smooth paste ; then 
take it olf ; stir Yg tablespoonful butter to a cream, add the yolks of 
3 eggs, one at a time, the boiled paste, and the fine-chopped chicken 
meat ; also Y2 tablespoonful farina, and season with salt and pepper ; 
beat up* the white of 2 eggs and stir lightly through the mixture. 
When the chicken is done take it out ; strain the soup through a 
sieve, and remove the fat ; put the soup back into the soup kettle, 
and as soon as it begins to boil form the forcemeat into small 
dumplings with 2 teaspoons ; drop them into the soup ; boil slowly 
5 minutes and then serve. 

Oxtail Soup a TAllemande. — Wash and cut 1 oxtail into 
pieces ; place them in saucepan ; add 2 ounces butter, 2 tablespoon- 
fuls fine-cut carrots, 1 fine-cut parsley root, 1 fine-cut onion, 2 
branches of soup celery, and 2 ounces fine-cut raw ham ; stir this 
over the fire and cook 15 minutes ; add 2Y8 quarts of stock, a bou- 
quet, and Ys teaspoonful pepper ; cover the saucepan tightly, and boil 
till the oxtail is done ; then strain the soup ; remove the fat ; cut 
the meat from the bones, lay it in the tureen, and set it in a warm 
place ; return the soup to saucepan again ; place it over the fire. 
Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a small frying pan, add 1 large heap- 
ing tablespoonful flour ; stir until the flour has obtained a light- 
brown color ; then add it to the soup ; add 1 gill of Madeira wine, 
Y2 cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, or 1 tablespoonful mushroom 
catsup ; cook 10 minutes ; season to taste with salt ; add a little 
sugar color ; pour the soup over the meat in the tureen and serve. 
Another way is to add 2 tablespoonfuls boiled barley. 

Mock Turtle Soup. — Plunge a nice fresh calf's head into boil- 
ing water, let it remain 1 minute, then remove and rub all over 



SOUPS, Etc. 29 

with a coarse towel, to remove all the remaining hair ; carefully cut 
the flesh, starting from the center of the head right down to the 
nostrils, and then with a sharp knife bone it from the top to the 
base on both sides. Having boned the head, put it in a stewpan 
over the fire ; cover with cold water, and as soon as it boils skim it 
well and continue to boil for 10 minutes ; take the calf's head out 
and lay it in cold water ; then butter the bottom of a soup kettle 
and lay over it 4 thin slices of raw ham, about % of a pound 
in all. On this put 1 veal knuckle cut into fine pieces, and an old 
chicken partly roasted ; add 2 quarts of cold water ; cover and boil 
until the broth is reduced to a glaze (which means until the water 
has boiled away, and the bottom of the kettle is covered with a rich 
brown gravy ; great care must be taken not to have the fire too strong, 
so it does not burn, otherwise the bouillon will be worthless ; frequent 
stirring is necessary while boiling) ; then add the calf's head, also 
the tongue ; fill the kettle with cold water, and as soon as it boils 
add 1 carrot, 3 large onions, 1 sprig of soup celery, 1 small white 
turnip, a large bouquet, and a little salt ; let this boil gently until 
the calf's head is done ; then take the head out and place it on a 
dish to cool ; afterward to be cut into square pieces and added to the 
soup ; strain the broth through a napkin, remove all the fat, and 
return 2 quarts of the broth to the fire again. Melt lYg ounce of 
butter in a saucepan, add Yg cupful flour, stir and fry till light 
brown ; then add it to the soup ; add 12 fine-cut canned mush- 
rooms ; boil gently 20 minutes, removing all the fat that arises. 
Then add Y2 cupful sherry, a little Cayenne pepper, 1 pint of the 
calf's-head meat cut into Ys-inch-sized pieces, and if necessary more 
salt, and boil gently 10 minutes. Put 18 chicken-forcemeat balls, 
boiled in salted water, in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over it. 
Put the remaining calf's-head meat and broth into glass jars ; 
cover tightly, keep in a cool place, and use for soups. 

Soup a la Duchess. — Place a well-cleaned chicken in a soup 
kettle ; cover with cold water ; as soon as it boils add 1 onion, 1 
leek, some salt, and a bouquet ; boil till done ; then take out the 



30 SOUPS, Etc. 

chicken, remove the skin and bones, cut the meat from the breast 
into fine pieces, and lay them in the tureen ; chop the bones up 
fine, and put them back into the soup kettle ; melt Y4 pound butter 
in a saucepan, add 4 ounces of bread crumbs, and let them get light 
brown ; add them to the soup ; boil for Y2 an hour, then strain, 
remove the fat ; mix the yolks of 3 eggs with Yg cup of cream or 
milk, stir this into the soup, and pour the same over the meat in the 
tureen. The remaining chicken meat can be used for chicken salad 
or croquettes. 

Pigeon Soup a la Crerae. — Place 2 well-cleaned pigeons in a 
saucepan with 3 pints of water over the fire ; as soon as this boils 
add a little salt, 1 onion, and a small bouquet ; cover the saucepan 
tightly and boil slowly till done ; then take out the pigeons, cut off 
the meat from the breast, and lay the meat in the tureen ; return 
the soup to saucepan ; fry Yg tablespoonf ul flour in Y2 tablespoon- 
ful butter few minutes ; add it to the soup ; cook 10 minutes ; mix 
the yolks of 2 eggs with Ys cup cream ; stir this into* the soup ; 
season with salt and little nutmeg ; pour the soup over the meat in 
the tureen, and serve. 

Soup a la Reine. — Place a soup kettle with 1 well-cleaned 
chicken over the fire ; if handy, add a small veal knuckle and suf- 
ficient cold water to cover all ; as soon as it boils add Y'g tablespoon- 
ful salt, 2 leeks, 2 onions, 3 sprigs of parsley tied together with 2 
blades of mace ; cover and boil slowly. When the chicken is 
tender take it out, remove the meat, chop up the bones and return 
them with the skin to the soup kettle, and boil Y2 hour longer ; 
then strain through a sieve and a napkin, remove the fat, return 
the soup to the kettle and place it over the fire ; melt 2 ounces of 
butter in a small saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls flour, stir until 
the flour has absorbed all the butter ; add slowly 1 pint of the soup, 
stir until smooth ; then add it to the soup ; boil 15 minutes ; mix 
the yolks of 2 eggs with Ys pint cream ; season to taste with salt ; 
draw the soup kettle to side of stove ; add a little of the soup to the 



SOUPS, Etc. 31 

cream and yolks, mix well ; then pour it into the soup. Place the 
fine-cut white chicken meat from the breast in a tureen, pour the 
soup over, and serve. 

Soup a la Tictoria. — Place a saucepan with 3 pints of chicken 
or veal broth over the fire ; fry 1 tablespoonf ul flour in 1 of butter ; 
add it to the broth and boil 10 minutes. In the meantime boil Yg 
cup milk with Y2 tablespoonful butter, add 3 tablespoonfuls farina, 
boil and stir till it has formed into a compact paste ; remove it from 
the fire and mix it with the yolk of 2 eggs, a little salt, nutmeg, and 
1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, add last the beaten whites ; cut 
off small portions with a teaspoon and drop it in boiling salted 
water, boil 5 minutes ; remove them with a skimmer and lay them 
in the soup tureen. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Yg cupful cream 
or milk ; remove the soup to side of stove ; add a little of the soup 
to the yolks and cream ; then stir it into the soup ; season, if neces- 
sary, with salt, a little grated nutmeg, and pour over the dumplings, 
then serve. 

Cream Soup of Cauliflower. — Melt 2 ounces butter in a 
saucepan ; add Y2 cupful fine-cut carrot, 1 fine-cut onion, a sprig 
of thyme, 1 bay leaf, 6 whole peppers, 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut raw 
ham, a little celery, and 3 parsley roots ; cook and stir 10 minutes 
over the fire without browning ; then add 2 heaping tablespoonfuls 
flour, stir for few minutes ; add 2 quarts white broth, boil 10 min- 
utes ; then add 1 small head of cauliflower cut into pieces, cook 
until the cauliflower falls apart; then press the soup through a 
sieve ; season to taste with salt ; add Y2 pint sweet cream, and serve 
with croutons. 

Soup a la Tertpre. — Wash several times in cold water 1 quart 
of spinach ; press out all the water by inclosing the spinach in a 
towel, and examine the spinach carefully so that it is perfectly clean ; 
then pound it in a mortar. In the meantime melt 1 tablespoonful 
butter in a saucepan ; add Y2 tablespoonful flour and stir this over 
the fire for a few minutes without browning ; add Ys piiit of chicken 



32 SOUPS, Etc. 

or veal brotli, a small bouquet, and boil 10 minutes ; then strain it 
into another saucepan, add the spinach ; season with a little salt 
and nutmeg ; place the saucepan over a quick fire and cook 10 min- 
utes, stirring constantly ; then set it in a warm place until the soup 
is ready to receive it, which is made as follows : Place over the fire 
a soup kettle with 2 pounds of beef, a small shank of veal, and, if 
handy, some poultry trimmings ; cover with cold water, and as soon 
as it commences to boil add a bouquet, 2 onions, 2 sprigs of soup 
celery, Yg tablespoonf ul salt ; cover and boil slowly 3 hours. In the 
meantime clean 1 large carrot ; cut it into thick slices lengthwise, 
peel off the red part, lay the slices over one another, and cut them 
fine like straws ; peel and cut 1 white turnip into slices, lay 4 of 
them over one another and cut them the same way; place both 
vegetables in a saucepan, cover with some of the soup stock ; add 1 
teaspoonful butter and Yg teaspoonful sugar, and cook till tender ; 
10 minutes before serving strain the soup through a napkin ; put 
lYs quart of this stock in a saucepan ; drain the carrots and turnips 
and add them to the stock. Add also the spinach, and, if handy, add 
Ys cupful stewed green peas, also a little fine-chopped chervil, cook 
5 minutes, if necessary add more salt, and serve. 

Xayier Soup. — Put a well-cleaned chicken in a large saucepan ; 
cover with cold water and set it over a moderate fire ; when it begins 
to boil remove the scum ; add 2 sliced onions, 1 leek, 1 blade of 
mace, and 3 sprigs of parsley, Ys tablespoonf ul salt ; cover tightly 
and boil slowly till the chicken is tender. In the meantime stew 1 
cupful green peas in water with a little salt ; when done drain off 
the water, press the peas through a sieve ; melt Y2 tablespoonful 
butter, add Ys tablespoonful flour, stir this for few minutes over the 
fire, add 3 tablespoonfuls chicken broth, and cook 3 minutes ; then 
mix it with the peas ; add 3 tablespoonfuls sweet cream, the beaten 
whites of 3 eggs, season with a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Fill 
the mixtui-e into 6 small well-buttered timbale forms, set them in a 
pan of hot water to reach up half their height, and place the pan 
on top of the stove ; cover and cook till firm, which will take about 



SOUPS Etc. 53 

20 minutes ; 10 minutes before serving strain the chicken broth 
through a napkin laid in a sieve ; return 3 pints of the broth to 
saucepan again ; melt in a pan Yg tablespoonf ul butter,, add Yg table- 
spoonful flour, stir for few minutes ; then add it to the broth ; cook 
5 minutes longer and draw the saucepan to the side of the stove ;, 
mix Ya cupful cream with the yolks of 2 eggs, add a little of the 
soup first to the cream and yolks, and then add the whole to the 
soup, but do not allow it to boil again. Cut Ys the breast of chicken, 
into small pieces, lay it in the tureen ; unmould the timbale forms, 
add them to the soup, and serve. 

Cream Soup a la Fran^aise. — Place a soup kettle with 3 
quarts cold water, 1 pound shank of beef, and a small knuckle of veal 
over the fire ; add Y2 tablespoonful salt and 4 ounces of pearl barley ; 
as soon as it begins to boil add 1 onion, 1 leek, a bouquet, and 1 
small carrot ; cover the kettle tightly and boil slowly. In the mean- 
time place a well-cleaned small chicken in a roasting pan ; season 
with Y2 tablespoonful salt, put 1 tablespoonful butter on the breast 
of the chicken ; pour 1 cup of boiling water in bottom of pan, set it 
in a moderate oven, baste frequently, and roast till done ; then 
transfer the chicken to a dish, remove the meat from the bones, cut 
it into small pieces, and set it covered with a little soup stock in a 
warm place ; put the bones and gravy of chicken into the soup 
kettle, boil 30 minutes ; then strain the soup, remove all the fat, 
and, if too thick, add a little boiling water ; add, if necessary, more 
salt ; then add Ys cup cream, lay the chicken meat in the tureen, 
pour the soup over it, and serve. 

Termicelli Cream Soup. — Place a saucepan over the fire with 
a shank of veal weighing about 2Y3 pounds, and cover with cold 
water ; set the saucepan over a moderate fire, and as soon as it boils 
add 2 onions, 1 leek, a bouquet, and Y2 tablespoonful of salt ; cover, 
and boil slowly till the meat is done ; then remove it, strain the 
soup, and return it to saucepan again. Melt Ys tablespoonful butter 
in a small saucepan, add Y2 tablespoonful flour, and stir this for a 



34: SOUPS, Etc. 

few minutes over the fire ; then add it to the soup. In the mean- 
time put 2 ounces of vermicelli in boiling water, cook 5 minutes, 
then pour it in a sieve, rinse off with cold water, and add it to the 
soup ; cook 10 minutes longer, and draw the saucepan to side of 
stove. Mix Ys cupful cream with the yolks of 2 eggs, add it grad- 
ually to the soup ; season with little nutmeg, and, if necessary, add 
more salt. 

Macaroni Cream Soup. — Place a saucepan with 1 quart of 
boiling water over the fire ; add 1 teaspoonful salt and 2 ounces of 
macaroni ; cover, and cook 10 minutes ; drain the macaroni, cut it 
into pieces 1 inch long, and return it to saucepan again ; cover with 
veal or chicken broth, add Yg tablespoonful butter, cook slowly 20 
minutes ; add sufficient broth to make 3 pints in all ; mix the yolks 
of 2 eggs with Yg cupful cream ; draw the saucepan to the side of 
the stove, and add gradually the cream and yolks ; season with a 
little nutmeg, and, if necessary, add more salt. 

Cream Soup of Pearl Barley. — Prepare 2 quarts of white 
broth of chicken or veal ; wash Ys pi^t of pearl barley in cold water, 
place it in a saucepan ; cover with the 2 quarts of white broth ; 
cover the saucepan and boil gently until the barley is tender, and 
then take Ys of the barley out and place it in a small saucepan ; rub 
the remaining barley through a sieve ; mix the whole barley with 
the cream of barley ; add Y2 pi^it of boiling cream, season to taste 
with salt, and serve. Some small force-meat balls, previously boiled 
in salted water, may be added to this soup ; or Y2 pi"t of boiled as- 
paragus tops put in the tureen and the soup poured over. If the 
soup should be too thick add more broth. 

Barley Soup Plain. — Place a saucepan with 2 pounds of shin 
of beef, or a shank of veal, over the fire ; cover with cold water, and 
as soon as it begins to boil remove the scum, add 1 bouquet, 2 fine- 
cut onions, 1 small carrot, Y2 tablespoonful salt and 2 tablespoonfuls 
barley previously washed in cold water; cover the saucepan, and 
boil slowly from 2 to 3 hours. Shortly before serving remove the 



SOUPS, Etc. 35 

meat, season the soup to taste, and serve. The meat may be served 
with tomato or horse-radish sauce. In place of beef or veal, 2 fresh 
pigs' knuckles may be taken. 

Cream Soup of Rice. — Wash Yg pint of rice, put it in a sauce- 
pan, cover with cold water, and set it over the fire to boil 5 minutes ; 
drain it in a sieve, return to saucepan again, and add 2 quarts of 
white stock, or, if stock is not at hand, veal or chicken broth may 
be taken ; cover closely, and boil gently until the grains of rice are 
soft ; then rub the whole through a sieve, return to saucepan again, 
add more broth if too thick, and a small piece of butter, and boil 10 
minutes longer ; add, 5 minutes before serving, Yg pint of boiling 
cream; add, if necessary, more salt, and serve; 2 tablespoonfuls 
cooked whole rice may be added to this soup, or IY3 dozen small 
chicken forcemeat balls, previously boiled in salted water, may be 
put in the tureen and the soup poured over them ; or if 1 tablespoon- 
f ul crawfish butter is added it will give the soup a handsome color. 

Cream Soup of Rice a la Royale. — Prepare a cream soup of 
rice the same as the foregoing recipe. Put 6 small egg custards 
(prepared as stated below) in the tureen and pour the soup over it. 
Egg Custard : Mix Yg cup of cream with 3 eggs, add 3 tablespoon- 
fuls chicken broth, little salt, and nutmeg ; fill this mixture into 6 
small well-buttered timbale forms; 20 minutes before serving set 
them in a pan of hot water so that it reaches up to half their height; 
place them in the oven or on top of the stove, cover with buttered 
paper, and cook till the custard is firm. When ready to serve, un- 
mould and place them in the soup tureen, pour the soup over them, 
and serve. 

Cream of Asparagus. — Pare and cut Y2 bunch of asparagus 
into small pieces ; place them in a saucepan with 2 quarts of boiling 
white stock and 1 teaspoonful salt; cook 1 hour; then strain 
through a sieve and return the soup in saucepan to the fire ; melt in 
a small saucepan 1 tablespoonful butter, add 1% heaping tablespoon- 
f ul flour, cook and stir 2 minutes, then add it to the soup ; cook 



36 SOUPS, Etc. 

slowly 10 minutes ; season to taste with salt ; add last the yolk of 2 
eggs mixed with Y2 cup cream, and serve with duchess crust, pre- 
pared as follows : Cut the rind from a loaf of bread into long, wide 
strips, cut the strips into rounds with a cake cutter, the size of a 50- 
cent piece ; dry them in the oven, and serve with the soup. 

Cream Soup a la Printaiiier. — Procure a small shank of veal, 
costing about 15 cents, Y2 pound raw lean ham, 10 young carrots, 4 
young white turnips, 1 onion, 1 quart of fresh green peas, and 4 
sprigs of parsley ; place the meat in a soup kettle, add the ham, and 
cover with cold water ; add 1 teaspoonf ul salt, set it over the fire ; 
as soon as it boils add 1 onion and a bouquet, and boil 2 hours ; 
clean, wash, and cut the carrots and turnips into slices, then lay 
several pieces over one another and cut them into fine strips ; place 
them in a small saucepan, cover with boiling water, add Yg tea- 
spoonful sugar, a little butter, and cook until tender ; shell the peas, 
and put the shells of the peas in the soup kettle with the meat ; 
place the peas in a saucepan, cover with boiling water; add Ys 
teaspoonful salt, and cook till soft; then drain, and press the peas 
through a sieve ; melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a small sauce- 
pan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook and stir 3 minutes ; add Y2 pint 
cream, season with salt and a little nutmeg, and cook 2 minutes ; 
add the peas and cook 2 minutes longer ; strain the soup, add 3 
pints of the stock to the peas, and let it boil up. Taste it, and if 
not salt enough add more salt. Drain the carrots and turnips in a 
sieve; put them in the soup, add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped 
parsley, and serve. 

Cream Soup of Celery. — Place a saucepan with 1 pint of fine- 
cut table celery over the fire, cover with 3 pints white broth, and boil 
till tender ; then strain through a sieve, return the soup to saucepan 
again, and season to taste with white pepper and salt ; fry 1 table- 
spoonful flour in 1 tablespoonful butter, add it to the soup, and 
cook 5 minutes ; then add Y2 cupful cream and little grated nut- 
meg; serve with small squares of bread fried brown in butter. The 



SOUPS, Etc. 37 

white stock, if not at hand, may be prepared of a knuckle of veal 
placed over the fire in a saucepan with 2 quarts of cold water, 1 
onion, a bouquet, and salt ; boil 2 hours ; then strain, and use as 
mentioned above. 

Cream Soup of Carrot. — Chop fine 4 medium-sized carrots; 
place them in a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter ; add 1 fine- 
chopped white onion ; cook 10 minutes without browning ; add 2 
quarts of white broth of veal or chicken, 2 tablespoonfuls rice, Yg 
tablespoonful salt, and Yg teaspoonful pepper ; boil slowly 1 hour ; 
then press it through a sieve into a saucepan, and add Yg cupful 
boiling cream ; season, if necessary, with salt, and serve with croutons. 

Potato Cream Soup. — Peel and wash 8 medium-sized pota- 
toes ; place them in a saucepan over the fire ; cover with 1 quart 
water ; add 1 tablespoonful salt, and boil till tender ; then drain ofE 
water, and press the potatoes either through a potato-masher or 
colander into a saucepan ; add Ys tablespoonful butter, 1 cupful 
boiling milk, and 1 quart bouillon ; cook 10 minutes, and season to 
taste with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg ; remove from the fire, 
add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley, and serve with croutons. 

Bouillon" for Above Soup. — Place a saucepan with 1 fine-cut 
onion and 1 tablespoonful drippings over the fire ; add 1 fine-cut 
carrot and Ya cupful fine-cut celery ; stir and cook 10 minutes; add 
3 pints boiling water and some bones of roasted meat, or poultry, 
whichever may be on hand. Any remnants can be used for this ; 
also the gravy of left-over chicken fricassee. Boil slowly 1 hour ; 
then strain, and use as directed above. 

Cream Soup of Turnips. — Place a saucepan with 1 table- 
spoonful butter and 1 pint fine-cut white turnips over the fire; 
cook 10 minutes ; add 3 pints of white broth and a bouquet ; cook 
40 minutes ; then press through a sieve, return the soup to sauce- 
pan, and place it over the fire. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a 
small saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes, 
then add it to the soup ; add Y4 teaspoonful white pepper, and salt 



38 SOUPS, Etc. 

if necessary ; cook 10 minutes. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs witli Yg 
cup cream or milk, and add it to the soup ; do not boil again, but 
serve at once. 

Cream Soup of Dried Peas. — Put a saucepan with 1 pound 
shank of beef over the fire, and cover with cold water ; add 2 ounces 
lean salt pork, and 1 pint dried green peas previously soaked in cold 
water ; as soon as it boils add Yg cupful fine-cut celery, the same of 
carrots and onions, and a bouquet ; cover, and boil slowly till the 
peas are tender ; then strain through a sieve into a clean saucepan ; 
melt Y2 tablespoonful butter, add Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir for few 
minutes, add it to the soup, and cook 5 minutes ; add Y2 cupful 
cream, or 1 tablespoonful unsweetened condensed milk, season to 
taste with salt, and serve with small pieces of bread fried in butter. 

Cream Soup of Dried Beans. — Use the above recipe for 
Dried Peas. 

Cream Soup of Lentils. — Is prepared in the same manner as 
Cream Soup of Dried Peas. 

Cream Soup of Fresh Lima Beans. — Melt 1 ounce butter in 
a saucepan ; add 2 fine-cut onions, 1 leek, some celery, 2 tablespoon- 
f uls fine-cut ham, and 1 fine-cut carrot ; cook and stir 10 minutes ; 
then add 2 quarts white broth, a bouquet, and 1 pint of fresh-shelled 
Lima beans ; season with Ys tablespoonful salt ; cover, and cook 1 
hour ; then rub the soup through a sieve into a clean saucepan ; 
return the soup to the fire; melt 1 tablespoonful butter, add 1 
heaping tablespoonful flour, stir for few minutes ; then add it to 
the soup, and cook 10 minutes ; add Y4 cupful cream, and serve 
with croutons. 

Cream Soup of Sorrel. — Put 2 ounces of butter in a sauce- 
pan; add 1 quart of well-washed sorrel; cook 10 minutes; then 
mash it fine ; place it, with 3 pints of white broth, in a saucepan 
over the fire and cook 10 minutes ; melt 1 tablespoonful butter, 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir for few minutes ; add it to the soup ; 
season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cook 10 min- 



SOUPS, Etc. 39 

utes ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Yg cup of cream, add it to the 
soup, and serve with poached eggs, allowing 1 egg for each person. 

Lettuce Cream Soup. — Choose 2 large heads of lettuce, re- 
move the outer leaves, wash the lettuce thoroughly, and cut up 
fine ; place with 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, and put over 
the fire ; cook 10 minutes, stirring constantly ; add 3 pints of 
chicken broth, and cook slowly 1 hour; season to taste with salt 
and pepper ; then press through a sieve into a clean saucepan, and 
return the soup to the fire ; melt Yg tablespoonful butter in a sauce- 
pan, add Ys tablespoonful flour, stir for few minutes, add it to the 
soup, and cook 10 minutes; add 1 cupful cream and little nutmeg; 
serve with small squares of toast. 

Potage a I'Imperiale. — Remove the breast of a young 
chicken ; cut the meat into slices, and pound it fine in a mortar 
with the whites of 2 eggs ; season with Y4 teaspoonf ul white pepper, 
the same of nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful salt, add 2 tablespoonfuls whipped 
cream, mix all well together ; set 1 hour on ice ; then put a tea- 
spoonful of this forcemeat on a buttered plate, set it for few minutes 
in the oven ; if the forcemeat is too firm, add a little more cream ; 
15 minutes before serving spread the forcemeat, 1 inch in thickness, 
in a buttered pan, place the pan in a hot oven, cover with buttered 
paper, and bake 5 minutes ; as soon as the forcemeat is firm to the 
touch remove it from the oven ; cut it into small round pieces, lay 
them in the tureen ; add Ys cupful fine-cut boiled carrots, the same 
of fine-cut boiled white turnips, Y2 cupful young green peas pre- 
viously boiled in water, with a little sugar ; pour over 3 pints of 
boiling chicken broth, and serve. 

Potage a la Mulligatawney. — Fry in 1 tablespoonful butter, 
1 tablespoonful fine-cut or chopped onion, the same of raw smoked 
ham, and green pepper ; cook 5 minutes ; then add the fine-cut 
breast of a young chicken, 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut carrot, the same 
of white turnip and leeks ; cook and stir 5 minutes ; season with 1 
teaspoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful pepper, 1 even teaspoonful curry ; 



40 SOUPS, Etc. 

cover with 2 quarts chicken broth, prepared from the remaining 
chicken ; add Yg cupful fine-cut egg-plant, Yg cupful fine-cut green 
apple, Y4 cup well-washed rice; boil 40 minutes; add , if necessary, 
more salt, and serve. In case the soup should be too thick, add 
more broth. 

Potage a la Creme de Riz a TAllemande. — Wash 1 cup of 
rice ; place it in a saucepan over the fire, cover with cold water, boil 
5 minutes ; drain in a sieve, rinse off with cold water ; put the rice 
in a saucepan, cover with white bouillon, and boil till soft ; then 
press it through a sieve into a clean saucepan ; add 2 quarts white 
bouillon, let it boil slowly 1 hour, removing all the scum that rises ; 
mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Y2 cup cream, add them to the soup ; 
season with a little nutmeg, and, if necessary, add more salt ; put Y2 
pint cooked green peas' with Y2 pint of boiled asparagus tops in the 
tureen ; pour the soup over, and serve. 

Potage a la Creme d'Orge. — Place 4 ounces well-washed 
pearl barley in a saucepan ; add 2 quarts white bouillon ; cover, and 
boil slowly 3 hours (if it should get too thick, add more bouillon) ; 
when done press it through a sieve ; add 3 pints of the same bouil- 
lon ; let it boil slowly 30 minutes, removing all the scum ; mix 1 
cup of cream with the yolk of 2 eggs ; add them to the soup ; if 
necessary, add more salt, and serve. Do not allow the soup to boil 
after the yolks have been added. 

Potage a la Crecy. — Cut off the red part from 6 large carrots ; 
add 1 white onion and a few stalks of celery ; cut the vegetables 
into fine pieces, and place them with boiling water in a saucepan 
over the fire ; boil 10 minutes ; drain the vegetables in colander, 
and return them to saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter and 1 tea*- 
spoonful sugar ; place on a slow fire and cook 20 minutes, without 
burning or acquiring any color ; then add 4 pints of white stock, 
described below ; cover, and boil 1 hour ; rub the soup through a 
sieve ; if too thick, add more broth, and return it to saucepan ; place 
again over the fire ; fry Ys tablespoonful flour in Ys tablespoonful 



SOUPS, Etc. 41 

butter ; add it to the soup ; boil for few minutes longer ; season 
with Y4 teaspoonful white pepper and, if necessary, some salt ; add 
Y2 cup cream or IY2 tablespoonful unsweetened condensed milk, 
and serve. 

White Stock foe Above Potage. — Place a knuckle of veal, 
costing about 20 cents, in a saucepan ; cover with cold water ; set 
the saucepan over the fire ; add, if handy, some poultry trimmings ; 
as soon as it boils add 1 leek, 1 large onion and 2 strips of parsley 
tied together with a bay leaf, 2 whole cloves, 6 whole peppers, a 
small sprig of thyme, and Y2 tablespoonful salt; cover and boil 
slowly till the meat falls from the bones ; then strain through a 
napkin ; remove all the fat. Use as directed above. 

Potage a la Puree de Poireau. — Clean and wash 4 large 
leeks ; cut them in fine slices ; melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan ; 
add the leeks and Y2 teaspoonful sugar ; cook and stir 10 minutes ; 
add 1 pint white bouillon ; cook until tender ; melt 1 tablespoonful 
butter ; add 1 tablespoonful flour ; stir for few minutes ; add 1 pint 
white bouillon, Y2 cup of mushroom liquor, and a bouquet ; boil 10 
minutes ; remove the bouquet ; add the leeks, and cook 15 minutes ; 
then add 3 pints bouillon ; cook for few minutes ; press through a 
sieve ; season to taste, and serve with boiled rice. 

Potage a la Puree de Pomme de Terre.— Pare, wash, and 
boil in salted water 6 large potatoes ; when done drain off the 
water ; press the potatoes through a potato masher ; mix them with 
2 ounces of butter ; add 3 pints white bouillon, and boil 3 minutes ; 
then add 1 cup cream mixed with the yolk of 2 eggs ; season with 
the necessary salt and little nutmeg. 

Potage a la Puree des Lentilles a la Conde. — Soak Y2 pint 
of lentils for several hours in cold water ; then place them covered 
with cold water in a saucepan over the fire ; add as soon as it boils 
1 onion, little celery, and carrot ; boil until tender ; then press 
through a sieve. Remove the meat from 2 roasted partridges or 1 
prairie-hen ; grind the meat as fine as possible through a meat 



42 SOUPS, Etc. 

grinder, or pound it fine in a wooden bowl ; put it with the lentil 
puree in a saucepan, adding 1 pint soup stock, and rub the whole 
through a sieve. In the meantime place a saucepan with 1 ounce 
butter, 1 fine-chopped onion, and Yg cupful fine-chopped ham over 
the fire ; add Yg cupful chopped carrot, little celery, and a bouquet ; 
cook until the onions begin to brown ; chop the bones of the birds 
fine, lay them with the remnants on top of the vegetables, add 1 
pint soup stock ; cook until the liquid has boiled away, and a brown 
gravy remains on the bottom of saucepan ; cover with soup stock, 
add Ys cup of sherry wine, and boil 1 hour ; then strain, add the 
broth to the above preparation, also a little nutmeg ; let the soup 
get boiling hot, and serve. 

Potage a la Puree Marrons a la Dauphine. — Remove the 
shells from 1 pound of large chestnuts ; place the chestnuts in a 
saucepan with boiling water and boil 12 minutes ; remove the brown 
skin, return the chestnuts in a saucepan to the fire, cover with con- 
somme, and boil till tender ; then press them through a sieve into a 
clean saucepan ; add 3 pints consomme, Ys teaspoonful sugar, little 
nutm.eg, and cook for few minutes. Boil a handful of nudles in 
boiling salted water, drain and put them in the tureen, pour the 
soup over, and serve. 

Potage a la Puree de Haricots. — Soak for several hours in 
cold water 1 pint of dried white beans ; then drain off the water ; 
place them with fresh cold water over the fire ; as soon as they boil 
add Ys cupful fine-cut celery, 2 onions, and the red part of 2 large 
carrots (without the core) ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, and boil 
till tender ; then press them through a potato masher, or a sieve ; 
return the puree to the saucepan, add 2 quarts white bouillon, and 
boil slowly 40 minutes ; season to taste with salt ; melt Ys table- 
spoonful butter, add Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir few minutes, and 
add it to the soup ; cook five minutes ; add 1 cupful sweet cream, 
and serve with bread croutons. 

Potage h la Puree de Carottes a la Wiuton.— Blanch 3 



r 



SOUPS, Etc. 43 

calf tails ; cool them in cold water ; cut into pieces and place in a 
saucepan, with a shank of veal, a small piece of shank of beef, and, 
if handy, some poultry trimmings ; cover with cold water ; add Yg 
tablespoonf ul salt, V3 pound of raw lean ham ; set the saucepan over 
the fire ; as soon as it boils add a large bouquet, 2 onions, 1 leek, 1 
white turnip, little celery, and Vg cupful sherry wine; cook iVg 
hour. In the meantime clean 6 large carrots, pare off the red part 
and throw the core away, lay some of the parings over one another, 
and cut them into julienne, Vs pint in all ; place with boiling water 
and Y2 teaspoonful sugar over the fire, and boil till done. Cut the 
remaining parings into small pieces, put them in a saucepan with 1 
tablespoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful sugar, and cook 6 minutes ; then 
cover with bouillon from the saucepan, boil until tender ; press 
them through a sieve, or potato masher ; return the pur6e to sauce- 
pan, add 1 quart of the bouillon from saucepan, and cook slowly 40 
minutes ; as soon as the calf tails are done, take them out, cut off 
all the meat and put it in the tureen with the stewed carrots ; strain 
the remaining bouillon, add it to the carrot puree ; add a small 
glass of sherry, little Cayenne pepper, and, if handy, 1 tablespoonful 
fine-chopped chervil, the same of sorrel ; add if necessary more salt, 
boil 5 minutes, then pour it in the tureen over the meat and carrots. 

Potage a la Puree de Celeri a la Cr erne. —Place 1 pint of 
fine-cut white celery in a saucepan over the fire ; cover with boiling 
water and cook 5 minutes ; drain on a sieve ; return the celery to 
saucepan, add 1 ounce butter, Yg teaspoonful sugar, Y2 teaspoonful 
salt, cook and stir 6 minutes ; then cover with white bouillon and 
cook until tender. Melt Y2 tablespoonful butter, add 1 tablespoon- 
ful flour, stir for few minutes ; add 1 cup of white bouillon, 1 cup 
of cream, a small bouquet, Y2 teaspoonful of salt, Yi teaspoonful 
nutmeg, and cook 10 minutes ; remove the bouquet, add the celery, 
boil 10 minutes without covering ; then press through a sieve ; re- 
turn the puree to saucepan, add 3 pints white bouillon, and boil few 
minutes ; if necessary add more salt ; add Y* cup cream, and serve 

with croutons. 
4 



44 SOUPS, Etc. 

Potage a la Puree d'Oignons a la Creme.— Clean and cut 

4 large white onions into quarters ; place them with boiling water 
in a saucepan over the fire and cook 3 minutes ; drain them on a 
sieve ; return the onions to a saucepan with 1 ounce butter, Yi tea- 
spoonful nutmeg, Yg teaspoonful sugar, Y2 teaspoonful salt ; cover 
and cook 8 minutes. Melt Y2 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 
heaping tablespoonful flour, stir for few minutes ; add IY2 pint white 
bouillon, Y2 pint of cream, Y2 teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful nut- 
meg, Y2 cupful mushroom liquor, a bouquet, and cook 10 minutes ; 
remove the bouquet, add the onions, and cook till soft, stirring con- 
stantly ; then press through a sieve ; return the puree to sauce- 
pan, add 3 pints white broth, Y4 cup of cream, and if necessary add 
more salt ; put 13 boiled chicken or veal forcemeat balls in the 
tureen, and pour the soup over it. 

Potage a la Puree de Nayets a la Crgme.— Place 1 pint 
of fine-sliced white turnips in a saucepan over the fire ; cover with 
boiling water and cook 5 minutes ; drain them on a sieve. Melt 1 
ounce butter in a saucepan, add the turnips, 1 teaspoonful sugar, Ya 
teaspoonful salt, and cook 10 minutes, stirring frequently ; then 
cover with white bouillon, and boil till tender. Melt Y2 ounce but- 
ter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir for few minutes ; 
add Y2 pint white bouillon, Y2 pin* cream, a small bouquet, if handy 
little mushroom liquor; season with Y2 teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoon- 
ful nutmeg, and cook 10 minutes; remove the bouquet, add the 
turnips, and cook 10 minutes, without cover ; press through a sieve ; 
return the puree in saucepan to the fire, add 3 pints of boiling 
white bouillon, and V2 cup of cream ; serve with croutons. 

Potage a la Titricare.— Peel, wash, and cut in slices 8 large 
potatoes, 1 white onion, 3 stalks of celery ; place this into a sauce- 
pan with 2 ounces butter ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Y4 tea- 
spoonful pepper, the same of grated nutmeg ; set on a slow fire, to 
simmer gently, stirring occasionally until nearly dissolved into a 
kind of puree; add 1 pint white broth, and cook 30 minutes 



SOUPS, E-rc. 45 

longer ; then rub them through a sieve ; return the puree in a 
saucepan to the fire, adding 2 pints white broth, and boil gently 15 
minutes ; add Y2 pint boiling cream, a small piece of butter, and a 
pinch of sugar. Put Y^ cup of cooked green peas, and the same 
of asparagus tops in the tureen with the potato balls described 
below. 

Potato Balls. — Bake 3 large potatoes, cut them in half and 
rub through a sieve ; then place the potatoes in a saucepan with Yg 
ounce butter, and Y2 cup rich cream ; season with salt, pepper, and 
nutmeg ; stir over the fire till the mixture ceases to adhere to the 
spoon ; then remove it ; add the yolks of 2 eggs and the beaten 
white of 1 ; mold them into small balls like marbles, and drop into 
boiling salted water; boil 5 minutes; remove the potato balls with 
a skimmer, lay them in the tureen, and pour the soup over it. 

Potage a la Creme d'Orge a la Puree de Tolaille.— 

Place a saucepan with ^j^ cup of barley over the fire ; add 1 quart 
white bouillon and cook till soft; then press it through a sieve. Ee- 
move the meat from a young roasted chicken ; pound the meat very 
fine and add it to the barley ; chop the chicken bones into pieces, 
and put the bones with the remnants in a saucepan over the fire ; 
cover with white bouillon ; as soon as it boils, add 1 leek, 1 onion, 
and a bouquet ; cook 1 hour ; then strain ; add 3 pints of this broth 
to the chicken and barley, and boil 10 minutes ; then strain through 
a sieve into a clean saucepan ; return the soup to the fire ; melt Y2 
tablespoonful butter, add Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir for few min- 
utes; add it to the soup and boil 10 minutes, removing all the 
scum ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Y2 cup cream, add it to the 
soup ; if necessary add little salt. The soup should not boil after 
the eggs are added. 

Potage a la Puree de Volaille a la Reine.— Take a well- 
cleaned plump chicken weighing 3 pounds ; rub Y2 tablespoonful salt 
in and over it ; put 2 thin slices of larding pork over the breast ; 
roll the chicken in buttered paper ; place it with few thin slices of 



46 SOUPS, Etc. 

larding pork in a roasting pan, adding 1 cup of boiling water ; roast 
and baste till done, which will take about 1 hour. At the same 
time place a saucepan with a shank of veal (about 3 pounds) over the 
fire ; add the giblets, neck, and the well-cleaned feet of the chicken, 
cover with cold water ; as soon as it boils add 1 large white onion, 1 
leek, a bouquet, and Yg tablespoonful salt ; cover and boil slowly. As 
soon as the chicken is done take it out of the oven ; free it from the 
paper ; remove the meat from the breast ; chop the remaining chicken 
into pieces ; add it to the soup and boil 1 hour. Chop and pound 
the breast as fine as possible, adding gradually Yo cup cream ; place 
it on ice ; 20 minutes before serving strain the soup through a nap- 
kin, return the bouillon to the kettle and place it over the fire. 
Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 
for few minutes until the butter has absorbed all the flour ; add 
gradually 1 pint of the soup, stir until smooth ; then pour it into 
the soup and boil 10 minutes ; taste it ; if necessary add more salt ; 
add the chicken puree (which was placed on ice) and Ys cup cream ; 
let it come to a boil, then serve. 

Potage a la Puree de Faisan. — Remove all meat from a 
roasted pheasant, chop and pound it to a puree ; at the same time 
spread the bottom of a large saucepan with butter, add 2 ounces 
fine-cut ham ; on to this put 2 pounds of shank of beef chopped 
into pieces, and a small shank of veal chopped the same way ; add 1 
pint of water and boil till all the water has boiled away and a little 
brown gravy remains on the bottom of saucepan, then add sufficient 
cold water to cover all ; put to it the chopped carcass of the pheasant, 
also, if handy, some poultry trimmings, and boil again ; as soon as 
boiling add a bouquet, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 leek, 1 white turnip, and 
Ys tablespoonful salt ; cover and cook slowly till the meat separates 
from the bones ; then strain the soup through a napkin ; return in 
saucepan to the fire. Melt Ys tablespoonful butter, add Ys table- 
spoonful flour, stir for few minutes ; add it to the soup and boil 10 
minutes ; put in the pheasant puree a little nutmeg, and if neces- 



SOUPS, Etc. 4Y 

sary more salt ; serve with croutons. This soup may be also pre- 
pared of prairie hens, or partridges and rabbits. 

Potage a la Puree de Perdreaux a la Dauphine.— Melt 1 

ounce butter in a large saucepan ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut 
onion, the same of raw smoked ham, carrot, leek, and celery ; stir 
this over the fire till brown, but do not let it burn ; then add 1 
pound shank of beef, the same of veal, both chopped into small 
pieces ; cover with cold water and boil 2 hours. Eemove the breast 
from a roasted j)rairie hen, chop and pound it fine ; add some of 
the bouillon from saucepan ; press it through a sieve ; cut the re- 
maining hen into pieces, add it with the gravy (if there is any) to 
the saucepan, and boil 1 hour. In the meantime boil Yg pound 
large chestnuts in water 15 minutes ; take them out, remove the 
shell ; return the chestnuts to saucepan, cover with bouillon and 
cook till tender ; then press them through a sieve ; 20 minutes before 
serving strain the soup, remove the fat, return it in saucepan to the 
fire ; melt Yg tablespoonful butter, add Y2 tablespoonful floor, cook 
and stir 2 minutes ; add it to the soup and boil 10 minutes ; then 
add Y2 teaspoonful grated nutmeg, and if necessary little salt ; mix 
the prairie-hen puree and the chestnut puree together, add them to 
the soup, boil a few minutes ; then strain through a sieve, and serve 
with small squares of bread fried in butter. In place of prairie 
hens 3 pigeons or 6 birds may be taken. 

Potage a la Puree de Pois Terts.— Boil 1 quart shelled 
green peas in salted water ; drain and press them through a sieve ; 
mix the pea puree with 3 pints white bouillon, and strain through a 
sieve ; return the soup in saucepan to the fire ; mix Y2 tablespoonful 
flour and Ya tablespoonful butter, stir for a few minutes over the 
fire ; add it to the soup, also Ys teaspoonful sugar, and if necessary 
a little salt ; cook 5 minutes ; add Y3 cupful boiled rice, and serve. 

Potage ^ la Puree de Volaille a la Comtesse.— A fine 
young capon, rolled in buttered paper and roasted till done, is freed 
from skin and bones ; the meat chopped and pounded fine, with 1 



48 SOUPS, Etc. 

ounce butter and the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs ; 2 slices of Vienna 
bread are freed from crust and dried in the oven, boiled to a puree 
in white bouillon ; then mixed with the capon puree and pressed 
through a sieve ; add 2 quarts white bouillon, seasoned to taste with 
salt ; then add Ys tablespoonf ul butter, a little nutmeg, and Yg cup 
of cream ; let the soup get very hot. One cup of cooked green peas 
and the same of asparagus tops are put in the tureen, and the soup 
poured over, then serve. In place of capon a chicken may be 
used. 

Potage a la Puree d'Asperges. — Peel 1 bunch of asparagus; 
cut the tender parts into small pieces ; place them in a saucepan, 
and cover with boiling water; add 1 teaspoonful salt, cook 15 
minutes ; then drain on a sieve. Melt 1 tablespoonf ul butter in a 
saucepan, add the asparagus, Ys teaspoonful sugar, and Yg teaspoon- 
ful salt ; cook and stir 6 minutes. In the meantime melt 1 ounce 
butter in a saucepan, add lYs tablespoonful flour, stir for few min- 
utes ; add 1 cupful chicken broth, 1 cupful cream or milk, a small 
bouquet, and, if on hand, Ys cupful mushroom liquor, cook 10 
minutes ; remove the bouquet, add the asparagus, cook until tender, 
stirring frequently ; press through a sieve ; add 3 pints of chicken 
broth, and cook few minutes ; then add the yolks of 2 eggs mixed 
with Ys cup of cream (do not let the soup boil again) ; put 12 small 
cooked chicken forcemeat balls in the tureen, pour the soup over, 
and serve. 

Potage a la Puree de Clioux-fleurs. — Cut the roses from a 
large head of cauliflower ; wash and put them in a saucepan ; cover 
with boiling water ; add 1 teaspoonful salt, and cook 10 minutes ; 
then drain in a sieve. In the meantime melt 1 ounce butter, add 1 
tablespoonful flour, stir and cook for few minutes ; then add 1 cup 
of chicken broth, 1 cupful cream, a small bouquet, and, if handy, a 
little mushroom liquor ; season with Ys teaspoonful salt, and boil 10 
minutes ; remove the bouquet, add the cauliflower roses, and boil till 
soft, stirring frequently ; press through a sieve into a clean sauce- 



SOUPS, Etc. 49 

pan ; add 3 pints of chicken broth, and boil few minutes ; then add 
the yolk of 2 eggs, mixed with Yg cup cream ; if necessary add more 
salt. Serve with toasted bread cut into strips. 

Potage d'Abatis de Dinde a la Russe.— Put the giblets, 
neck, and well-cleaned feet of 2 ducks or a turkey into boiling water, 
cook 3 minutes ; remove ; rinse oS. with cold water ; melt 1 table- 
spoonful butter, add 1 fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes without 
browning ; add Yg tablespoonf ul flour, stir for few minutes, then add 
6 pints of soup stock ; as soon as it boils add the giblets, neck, and 
feet, and a half cup of salt brine from pickled cucumbers; cook 
slowly ; after 10 minutes boiling remove the livers ; cut 1 carrot and 
1 white turnip into julienne, the same of 1 leek, 2 parsley roots, a 
little celery, and 1 cucumber ; scald the vegetables for a few minutes 
in boiling water ; drain in a sieve ; return them in a saucepan to the 
fire, add Y2 tablespoonful butter, cook a few minutes ; then cover 
with stock and cook till tender; boil 12 ravioles, made of nudle 
dough and forcemeat, as directed, in salted water ; place them with 
the vegetables and the fine-cut giblets in the tureen ; add Y2 cup 
sour cream to the soup, strain it through a sieve, pour it into the 
tureen, and serve. 

Potage a la Dauphine. — Mix the yolks of 4 eggs with Y2 cup- 
ful chicken broth ; season with a little salt, white pepper, and nut- 
meg ; butter a small bowl, pour in the mixture, and set the bowl in 
a pan ; pour in some boiling water to the depth of 1 inch ; cover 
the pan and let it boil slowly until the custard is firm to the touch ; 
remove the bowl, let it cool 10 minutes ; then cut the custard into 
small slices, lay them in the tureen, and pour 1 quart of clear con- 
somme over it ; add 1 cupful boiled asparagus tops, and serve. 

Potage a la Regence. — Place a soup kettle with 1 pound 
shank of beef and a small veal knuckle over the fire ; cover with 
cold water ; add 1 even tablespoonful salt, and as soon as it boils 
add a bouquet, 1 onion, 1 leek, 1 small carrot, and a well-cleaned 
chicken ; cover and boil slowly till the chicken is tender ; then re- 



50 SOUPS, Etc. 

move it from the soup, cut Yg the meat from the breast into small 
pieces, and place it with a little broth in a warm place. (The 
remaining chicken may be used for other purposes.) Strain the 
soup, and remove the fat ; beat the whites of 2 eggs to a froth, add 
a little cold water, stir them into the soup, boil 5 minutes; draw the 
kettle to side of stove, and after 10 minutes strain it through a nap- 
kin ; if necessary add more salt. In the meantime clean and cut 
into slices 1 medium-sized carrot, lay 4 slices over one another, cut 
them into small strips like straws ; cut 1 white onion, 1 leek, 2 white 
stalks of celery the same way ; place the vegetables in a saucepan ; 
cover with boiling water; cook 2 minutes; drain on a sieve and 
return the vegetables to saucepan again ; add 1 teaspoonf ul butter, 
cover with consomme, and cook till tender. Drop 1 tablespoonful 
Italian paste into boiling water, cook 10 minutes ; drain on a sieve ; 
place them with the vegetables and the fine-cut chicken meat in the 
tureen ; pour over 3 pints of the consomme described above, and 
serve. 

Potage a la Clermont. — Soak lYg tablespoonful tapioca in 
cold water for 1 hour ; cut 1 medium-sized carrot into small dice- 
like pieces, also white turnip and celery, y, pintful in all ; place this 
in a saucepan ; cover with boiling water and cook 2 minutes ; drain 
in a sieve ; add them with the soaked tapioca to 3 pints of con- 
somme, boil 30 minutes. Prepare 12 small chicken-forcemeat 
balls ; boil them in salted water ; lay them with Yg pint of boiled 
asparagus tops in the tureen ; pour the boiling consomme over, and 
serve. 

Russian Soup. — Place a soup kettle with 2 pounds of beef 
over the fire ; add a small shank of veal ; Y4 of a chicken, or the 
giblets, neck, and well-cleaned feet of a chicken ; Y* pound parboiled 
lean salt pork and cover with cold water ; as soon as it boils, add 2 
onions, 1 carrot, Y2 cup fine-cut celery, 3 sprigs of parsley ; cover 
and boil slowly till done. At the same time, wash 1 cupful sauer- 
kraut in water, melt one ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 fine- 



SOUPS, Etc. 51 

chopped onion ; press out the kraut, chop it fine, put it in the 
saucepan, stir 5 minutes over the fire ; then add 1 tablespoonf ul 
flour, stir for few minutes ; strain the soup, add 273 quarts of the 
broth to the kraut and cook slowly iVg hour, removing all the 
scum that rises ; shortly before serving add 3 Frankfurter sausages 
to the soup, cook 3 minutes, then remove ; cut the Frankfurter into 
slices, also a little of the meat and pork into small pieces ; add them 
with 1 tablespoonf ul fine-chopped parsley to the soup; season to 
taste with salt and pepper, and serve. 

Russian Tegetable Soup. — Place 1 pound of lean beef, and 
Ys pound of lean ham, with 3 quarts cold water, over the fire ; add 
a little salt, and let it boil until the meat is done ; cut 1 onion, 1 
carrot, some celery, and 1 leek into small pieces ; place in a small 
saucepan Yg cupful of dried peas, covered with cold water, over the 
fire ; as soon as this boils, add the fine-cut vegetables and a little 
salt, and boil till done. Shortly before serving take out the meat, 
cut it into small pieces and put it with the vegetables in the tureen, 
add some boiled rice, strain the soup and pour it over. If the meat 
is to be used for other purposes, sausages may be fried, cut into 
slices, and added to the soup instead of meat. 

Stchy aux Chonx Nouveaux. — Place a soup kettle with Y4 
chicken, the giblets, 1 pound shank of beef, and a small shank of 
veal, over the fire ; add 2 ounces lean salt pork, cover with cold 
water, and boil till the meat is done ; chop fine 2 white onions, 
place them in a saucepan with 1 ounce butter, cook until light 
brown, then add Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir for few minutes ; add 2 
quarts of the above broth, and boil slowly 16 minutes ; draw it to 
side of stove to simmer slowly. Cut a small head of cabbage into 
quarters, place it in saucepan with boiling water, and 1 tablespoon- 
ful sugar over the fire, boil 5 minutes ; then drain off the water ; 
add 1 quart of the soup, 1 fine-cut leek, 1 carrot, and a little white 
celery; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, cover and boil till tender. 
Twenty minutes before serving lay 3 fresh sausages on top of the 



52 SOUPS, Etc. 

cabbage, and cook till done ; then remove them, cnt the sausages 
into slices, also the chicken meat and pork ; place this with the cab- 
bage in the tureen, and pour the remaining quart of broth over it ; 
add 1 tablespoonf ul fine-chopped green fennel or parsley, and serve. 

Season to taste with salt. 

Bread Crotitous for Soup. — Cut or grate the rind off a stale 
loaf of bread ; cut the loaf into slices, and then either into little 
square pieces, or into small long pieces, or cut them with a tin cut- 
ter into round pieces. Shortly before serving, fry in butter to a 
delicate brown ; throw them in a colander, then lay on blotting 
paper, to absorb all the grease. Set in a warm place till wanted. 

Cheese Crotitons for Soup.— Cut or grate the rind off a 
small loaf of bread, cut the loaf into slices, and toast them ; then 
butter a deep dish, lay the toasted bread into this, pour a few spoon- 
fuls of bouillon over the toast, add a little bouillon fat, put a layer 
of grated cheese on top of this, and bake 10 minutes in the oven. 
Serve with clear bouillon and forcemeat balls. 

Sago for Soup. — Place the sago into hot water for a few min- 
utes ; then throw it into a sieve, rinse it off with cold water, and 
boil in the soup until done. 

Tapioca for Soup. — Wash the tapioca, let it lay 1 hour in cold 
water, and boil it in the soup till done. 

Farina for Soup. — Put the farina dry in the boiling soup and 
boil for 5 minutes. 

Barley prepared for Fine Soups.— Soak fine barley for Vg 
hour in cold water ; then place it with cold water over the fire, boil 
15 minutes ; throw it into a sieve, and pour cold water over it ; boil 
in bouillon until done. 

Rice for Soup. — Wash the rice ; place it in a saucepan, covered 
with cold water, over the fire, and boil 5 minutes ; then drain in a 
sieve ; rinse off with cold water ; add it to the soup, and boil till 
tender; or cook in a separate saucepan with some of the soup 
stock ; add it to the soup when ready to serve. 



SOUPS, Etc. 53 

Macaroni for Soup. — Break the macaroni into pieces, drop it 
into a saucepan of boiling water, add a little salt, and boil 15 min- 
utes ; then drain it on a sieve, rinse off with cold water, lay the 
macaroni on a napkin and cut it into small lengths 1 inch long, 
and boil it in the soup till done. Spaghetti is prepared in the same 
way. 

Termicelli for Soup. — Put the vermicelli in a saucepan, 
cover with boiling water, and cook 5 minutes ; drain in a sieve ; 
rinse o£E with cold water ; then boil the vermicelli in the soup until 
done. 

Italian Paste for Soup. — Place the paste in a bowl, cover 
with boiling water, let it remain 2 minutes ; then drain in a sieve, 
pour over some cold water, add it to the soup, and boil till done. 

Fish Chowder. — Take either a small live codfish or haddock ; 
remove the bones, head, and skin; cut the meat into inch-sized 
pieces ; put them into a bowl with one tablespoonf ul salt and 1 
quart water ; place a soup kettle with a small shank of veal over the 
fire ; cover with cold water ; as soon as it boils add 2 fine-cut onions, 
1 carrot, a little celery, the fish bones, the head, Yg tablespoonf ul 
salt, and boil 2 hours ; then strain. Fry in a saucepan 2 ounces 
fine-cut larding pork with 2 fine-chopped onions 5 minutes without 
browning ; add Yg tablespoonf ul butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, and 
cook 2 minutes ; add the strained broth, and boil 5 minutes ; add 1 
pint fine-cut peeled potatoes, and boil 10 minutes ; remove the fish 
pieces from the salt water, wash well in cold water, wipe dry, and 
add them to the chowder ; season with 1 even teaspoonful white 
pepper, and cook 10 minutes ; add two tablespoonfuls unsweetened 
condensed milk, 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley, and if neces- 
sary add more salt. 

Fish Soup. — Select a good-sized weakfish; remove the skin 
and bones, season the meat with salt and the juice of Ys lemon ; 
melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a frying pan, put in the fish, and fry 
on both sides till done ; let the fish get cold, then cut it into small 



54: SOUPS, Etc. 

pieces. Place the fish head and bones in a saucepan, cover with 1 
pint bouillon, and set it over the fire ; as soon as it boils add 1 
onion, Yg carrot, a good-sized bouquet, and boil 20 minutes ; then 
add Ya bottle of white wine, and cook slowly 20 minutes ; strain the 
essence through a napkin into a clean saucepan, add 3 pints con- 
somme, season with a little Cayenne pepper and, if necessary, some 
salt ; return the soup to the fire, add Y2 cupful fine-cut mushrooms, 
and cook 10 minutes ; next scald 12 oysters in their own liquor, and 
boil 12 fish forcemeat balls in salted water ; lay them with the fish 
meat in the tureen, and pour the soup over all. In place of weak- 
fish, pickerel or flounders may be taken. 

Carp Soup. — Select a good-sized carp, clean and wash it, put it 
in a kettle, add Y2 bottle Ehine wine and sufficient white broth to 
cover, 1 onion, Yg carrot, and a bouquet ; place the kettle over the 
fire, and cook till tender ; remove from the fire, and let the fish re- 
main in the broth till cold ; then take it out, remove all the meat 
from the bones, and pound it fine ; strain the broth, cut a roll into 
slices, add it to the broth, and boil 15 minutes ; then add it to the 
fish, with the yolk of 3 hard-boiled eggs, and mix all well together ; 
put the mixture in a saucepan, add sufficient white bouillon to make 
a creamy soup ; let it boil a few minutes ; press it through a sieve ; 
let it get hot, add Y2 ounce butter and 2 fillets of anchovies mashed 
fine ; then serve. 

Bisque of Clams. — Twenty hard-shell clams and their liquor, 
2 quarts white broth, Y^ cup rice, Ys teaspoonful white pepper, Y'^ 
pint cream, and 1 bouquet. Take the clams out of their liquor with 
a fork ; strain the liquor into a saucepan, add the clams, and let it 
come to a boil. Transfer the clams to a chopping bowl, and mince 
them very fine ; return them to the liquor in saucepan, add 2 quarts 
white broth, the rice, and a bouquet made of 2 sprigs of parsley, 1 
sprig of thyme, 2 blades of mace, 1 bay leaf, 2 cloves, and 6 whole 
peppers tied together in a bunch ; add the pepper, and boil slowly 1 
hour ; then strain, add Y2 piiit rich sweet cream, let it get boiling 



SOUPS, Etc. 55 

hot, but do not allow it to boil. Serve with small dice of fried 
bread. 

Bisque of Clam Bouillon.— Place a saucepan with 1 table- 
spoonful butter over the fire ; add 3 tablespoonf uls fine-cut onion, 1 
tablespoonf ul grated carrot ; cover, and cook until the onions and 
carrots are done, stirring it occasionally ; then add 1 tablespoonf ul 
flour, stir a few minutes, add 1 pint of boiling water, 1 pint of clam 
bouillon, and cook 5 minutes; strain, and return the bisque to 
saucepan; mix the yolk of 2 eggs with a half cup cream; add 
slowly to the bisque, and serve with small oyster crackers. 

Clam Cream Stew.— Chop fine 1 quart of clams, and strain 
the liquor ; place a saucepan with 2 fine-chopped white onions, 2 
tablespoonfuls fine-cut white celery, and 1 tablespoonful butter over 
the fire, cover, and cook 5 minutes without browning ; add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, cook and stir a few minutes ; then add 1 pint of boil- 
ing water and the clam liquor ; also 1 pint fine-cut potatoes, 1 even 
teaspoonful white pepper, and boil until potatoes are done ; add the 
chopped clams, and cook 6 minutes. When ready to serve, add 1 
cupful rich sweet cream or Yg cup of unsweetened condensed milk. 

Clam Chowder. — One quart hard-shell clams, 1 cup fine-cut 
carrots, Yg cup fine-cut celery, 1 pint fine-cut onions, 1 quart fine-cut 
potatoes, Ys can tomatoes, 2 quarts boiling water, 4 ounces larding 
pork, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful white pepper, 1 tea- 
spoonful pulverized thyme, and 1 teaspoonful beef extract ; place 
the pork in a saucepan over the fire, and fry light brown ; add the 
boiling water, the carrots, onions, and celery, cook iintil the carrots 
are done ; then add the potatoes, salt, and pepper, and cook 10 
minutes ; add the tomatoes, and cook 20 minutes longer ; then add 
the fine-chopped clams and their liquor, the thyme, beef extract, 
and a little Cayenne pepper. Melt Ys tablespoonful butter in a small 
saucepan, add Ys tablespoonful flour, stir for a few minutes over the 
fire ; add it to the chowder, boil 10 minutes, and serve. 

Clam Soup. — Chop fine 25 clams, strain the liquor ; melt 1 



56 SOUPS, Etc. 

tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine- 
chopped white onions, and cook 5 minutes without browning ; then 
add 2 fine-rolled soda crackers, and stir a few minutes ; add 1 pint of 
boiling water, 1 pint of fine-cut potatoes, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, 
and cook 15 minutes ; add to it 1 cup canned tomatoes, and cook 
10 minutes longer ; next add the clams and liquor, cook again 10 
minutes ; put 1 pint of boiling milk in the tureen, pour in the soup, 
and serve with crackers. 

Oyster Cream Soup. — Place a saucepan with Vg ounce butter 
and 1 fine-chopped white onion over the fire ; cook 5 minutes with- 
out browning ; add 1 tablespoonful flour and cook a few minutes ; 
then add 3 cupfuls chicken or veal broth, and the strained liquor of 
1 quart of oysters ; season with Yg teaspoonful salt, Yg teaspoonful 
white pepper ; cook 10 minutes ; strain into a clean saucepan ; re- 
turn it to the fire, add the oysters, boil 2 minutes ; remove the 
saucepan to side of stove ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 1 cup of 
cream, add it slowly to the soup, do not let boil again ; serve with 
small oyster crackers. 

Oyster Soup with Milk. — Strain the liquor from a quart of 
oysters into a saucepan ; add the oysters, Y2 tablespoonful butter, 2 
tablespoonfuls rolled cracker, a little salt, some white pepper, and 
boil until the oysters ruffle, which takes about 3 minutes ; add 1 
pint of boiling milk and serve. 

Crab Bisque a I'Allemande. — Drop 6 live crabs into boiling 
water, add 1 tablespoonful salt and boil 12 minutes ; then remove and 
when cold split them with a knife ; extract all the meat ; wash the 
shells and dry them in the oven ; then place them in a chopping 
bowl, add 2 ounces butter, and pound them fine ; place the shells 
and butter in a saucepan, and stir 10 minutes over the fire ; 
add 2 quarts chicken stock mentioned below, and cook slowly 10 
minutes longer ; strain the soup into another saucepan, add Y2 cup- 
ful cream and 3 well-beaten eggs, place the soup over the fire, beat 
constantly with an egg beater till just before the boiling point, then 



SOUPS, Etc. 57 

add the crab meat, and 12 chicken-forcemeat balls previously- 
boiled in salted water. 

Chicken" Stock. — Clean and wash a chicken, remove the 
breast (to be used for the forcemeat balls) ; place the chicken in a 
saucepan over the fire, and cover with water ; as soon as it boils, 
add 2 onions, 1 leek, a bouquet, and Yg tablespoonful salt ; cover, 
and boil slowly. When the chicken is done remove it. Melt 1 
tablespoonful butter in a frying pan, add 1 tablespoonful flour ; stir 
a few minutes over the fire without browning ; add it to the soup 
and boil five minutes ; then strain and use as directed above. 

Bisque of Crab. — Drop 6 hard-shell crabs into boiling water, 
add 1 tablespoonful salt, and cook 12 minutes ; remove them with 
a skimmer ; when cold open the crabs with a knife and extract all 
the meat ; put the meat from the claws aside ; chop the remaining 
meat fine, place it in a saucepan with 1 cupful rice and 3 quarts 
•white broth, add a bouquet, a little salt and pepper, cover, and boil 

1 hour ; then strain through a sieve, return the liquid to saucepan ; 
add Yg pint of cream and the crab meat from the claws ; let it get boil- 
ing hot ; if necessary, add more salt and pepper. Serve with croutons. 

Bisque of Lobster. — Extract the meat from a fresh-boiled 
lobster ; cut the meat from the claws into small squares, and put 
them in a tureen (if the lobster has any coral rub it very fine) ; 
mix with Yz ounce butter, and press it through a sieve ; then 
chop the remaining lobster meat fine. Melt IY2 ounce butter in a 
saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls flour, stir and cook 2 minutes with- 
out browning ; add 2 quarts chicken or veal broth and the chopped 
lobster meat, boil 1 hour ; then strain into a clean saucepan and 
return it to the fire ; add the coral butter, boil 5 minutes ; draw the 
saucepan to side of stove ; mix Y2 cup sweet cream with the yolk of 

2 eggs, add them slowly to the bisque, also Y2 cupful boiled rice ; 
season with salt to taste, then pour it in the tureen over the lobster 
meat. In place of rice, small chicken forcemeat balls, previously 
boiled in salted water, or egg balls, may be added. 



58 SOUPS, Etc. 

Green Turtle, how to preserve. — The American green 
turtles are considered the best. They weigh from 100 to 600 
pounds, obtain a length of 5 to 6 feet, and are abundant in the 
tropical waters of America, whence great numbers are carried alive 
to the Northern States and to Europe. The West Indies are their 
headquarters, whence they wander to the Gulf of Mexico and tlie 
coast of Guiana and Brazil ; they are rarely found above lat. 34° N. 
on the Atlantic coast, and never on the shores of Europe. 

Select a turtle weighing from 100 to 120 pounds ; hang it up by 
the hind legs with a strong cord ; tie a string around the neck ; pull 
out the head, cut it off with a sharp knife, and let it hang 12 hours 
to bleed. Then take the turtle down and lay it on its back ; stick 
a sharp-pointed knife into the margin, and cut the shell loose all 
around ; then remove the upper shell from the lower. Throw the 
entrails away, taking particular care to remove and preserve every 
particle of the green fat ; cut the feet loose from the under shell ; 
cut them into pieces, and put these with the head and the remain- 
ing meat into cold water for several hours ; next cut and scrape off 
the scales and horny part from the feet ; plunge the turtle into 
boiling water, letting it remain 3 minutes; remove and instantly 
plunge it into cold water ; change the water several times. When 
cold, place the turtle into a large kettle ; cover with white stock ; 
place the kettle over the fire ; as soon as it boils, add 2 bottles of 
Madeira wine, some salt, a large bouquet made of a handful of 
parsley, 4 bay leaves, 13 cloves, 4 sprigs of thyme, 4 blades of mace, 
the same of marjoram and basil, and boil from 2 to 3 hours, or till 
the meat is done ; then remove the kettle from the fire ; let the meat 
cool in the broth. Now remove all the large pieces of meat which 
resemble calf's head (the lean meat can not be used) ; remove all 
the fat from the broth, strain the latter into a clean kettle ; place it 
over the fire, and reduce it to one half by boiling. Put the meat 
into tin cans, cover them with the broth, have the cans soldered ; 
boil them 2 hours in water; keep the cans 3 inches under water 
while boiling. Turtle prepared in this way will keep for years. 



SOUPS, Etc. 59 

Turtle Soup of Snapping Turtle.— Select a turtle weighing 
about 10 pounds. In order to kill it put a red-hot iron to its back, 
and as soon as it shows its head chop it off with some sharp instru- 
ment. Hang the turtle up by its hind legs to bleed several hours ; 
then lay it on its back, stick a sharp-pointed knife into the margin, 
and cut the shell loose all around ; separate the upper from the 
lower shell, and remove the meat ; then wash the meat and let it 
lay in cold water for several hours. After that scald it in boiling 
water ; cool it in cold water, remove the brown skin from the feet, 
and cut off the nails ; then place the meat over the fire, with suffi- 
cient stock to cover it ; add some soup vegetables, a bouquet of 
parsley, thyme, a few cloves, bay leaves, some whole peppers, and 
salt ; let it boil slowly till done. Prepare some small balls to repre- 
sent the turtle eggs, as follows : Eub the yolks of 4 hard-boiled 
eggs fine, add the yolk of 1 raw egg, Yg teaspoonful butter, a little 
salt, and some flour ; form this into small balls, and boil them in 
salted water 5 minutes. When the meat is done take it out and cut 
it into small pieces ; place it in a saucepan and cover with a little 
broth to keep it warm ; then strain the remaining broth into a 
clean saucepan, return it to the fire, melt lYg ounce of butter, add 
lYa tablespoonful flour, stir for a few minutes ; add it to the soup ; 
season to taste with salt, and, if handy, add Y2 cup sherry wine ; 
boil ten minutes. Put the egg balls and meat in the tureen, pour 
the soup over all, and serve. 

Green-Turtle Soup. — Open a can of preserved turtle and set 
it in hot water until the stock melts ; then take out the meat, cut it 
into pieces and set it with some of the liquor in a warm place ; put 
the remaining liquor with 2Y2 quarts of consomme over the fire ; 
add, if handy, a few fine-cut mushrooms, cover and boil Y4 hour. 
At the same time simmer in a small saucepan 2 fine-cut onions, 1 
bay leaf, a little thyme, marjoram, sweet basil, 3 cloves, 12 whole 
peppers, with Ya pi^it Madeira wine, 20 minutes. Shortly before 
serving strain this wine essence through a fine piece of muslin. 



60 SOUPS, Etc. 

press it out, and add it with a little Cayenne pepper to the soup. 
Put the turtle meat in the tureen ; have some mock eggs prepared 
as follows : Kub fine the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, add a little 
butter, 1 raw yolk, a sprinkle of salt, and suflBcient flour to form 
into small balls like marbles ; then boil in salted water for 5 min- 
utes. Lay them in the tureen with the turtle meat and pour the 
soup over all. This soup must be clear and have a strong flavor of 
spice. Preserved turtle can be bought in cans from any first-class 
grocer. 

Potage d'Anguille a la Hambourgeoise {Hamhurger Aal- 
Suppe). — Cut 2 pounds of well-cleaned eels into 2-inch-sized pieces; 
put them in a saucepan ; cover with boiling water ; add 1 table- 
spoonful salt, Yg cupful vinegar, 2 onions, a bouquet, and 1 carrot ; 
let it simmer 15 minutes. Place a saucepan with 1 cupful fine-cut 
young carrots over the fire ; cover with boiling water ; add 1 tea- 
spoonful sugar and a little butter, boil 20 minutes ; then add 1 cup- 
ful young green peas, cook until tender ; now add 2 quarts white 
stock, 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped chervil, the same of thyme, mar- 
joram, tarragon, sweet basil, and a little fine-chopped mint; add 
Ys of the eel broth, Yi cup white vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, Y2' 
teaspoonful pepper, cook 10 minutes, adding, if necessary, a little 
salt. In the meantime peel, cut in Y2? ^^^ stew Y2 dozen pears in 
water and sugar till done. Place a saucepan with Ys cup milk over 
the fire ; as soon as it boils add Y2 tablespoonf ul butter and Ys cup 
flour, stir until it forms into a paste ; then remove from fire, and 
when nearly cold add the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 whole egg^ a little salt, 
and nutmeg ; stir until smooth ; then drop with a teaspoon small 
portions of it into the boiling soup, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 table- 
spoonful fine-chopped parsley ; put the eels into the tureen, pour 
the soup over it ; serve the pears separate or put 3 eel pieces and 2 
pear halves in each soup plate. 

Potage d'Anguille a la Marini^re. — Cut 2 good-sized well- 
cleaned eels into pieces 2 inches in length ; place them with Y2 



SOUPS, Etc. 61 

bottle Bordeaux wine in a saucepan over the fire ; add 1 pint 
bouillon, 2 onions, 1 carrot, a bouquet, 1 teaspoonful salt, and cook 
till done ; then take out the eels, remove the meat from the bones, 
cut it fine and place it in a small saucepan with a little of the 
broth ; set it in a warm place. Eeduce the eel broth by boiling to 
one half ; then strain it ; return the broth to a clean saucepan ; add 
3 pints white broth ; as soon as it boils melt 1 tablespoonful butter, 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir for a few minutes ; add it to the soup. 
Put to it 12 button mushrooms ; boil 20 minutes ; remove all the 
fat ; put 12 small white onions, boiled in a little bouillon and Yg 
teaspoonful sugar, in the tureen, also 12 small fish balls, previously 
boiled in salted water ; add the meat from the eels, pour the soup 
over, and serve. 

Potage a la Creme de Riz h PEssence d'^^crevisses.— 

Place a saucepan with 2 quarts of white stock over the fire ; as soon 
as it boils add 4 ounces of rice flour mixed with 1 cup cold bouillon, 
stir for a few minutes, let it cook 30 minutes. In the meantime 
extract the meat from 8 boiled crabs ; set 1 cup of the crab meat 
aside ; add the remaining to the soup, boil 10 minutes ; then strain 
through a sieve into a clean saucepan, add 1 ounce of crab or craw- 
fish butter, the crab meat, and Yg cup of cream ; season to taste 
with salt, and serve. 

Matelote Soup. — Put Ys pint of Bordeaux wine in a saucepan ; 
add 2 quarts consomme and a large bouquet ; boil 30 minutes ; re- 
move the scum ; then add 4 tablespoonfuls Madeira, Y2 ounce of 
crawfish or lobster butter, and Y2 ounce anchovy butter; cook a 
few minutes, and strain through a fine sieve. Have ready 12 small 
fish-forcemeat balls, 1 cupful fine-cut cooked crab or lobster meat, 
12 oysters previously scalded and freed from their beards, and 12 
small boiled white onions ; add all the ingredients to the soup, and 
serve. 



62 SOUPS, Etc. 

SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT. 

Mushroom Soup. — Chop fine 1 white onion, place it in a sauce- 
pan over the fire with 1 ounce butter, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 table- 
spoonful flour ; stir for a few minutes ; add 3 pints boiling water, 1 
teaspoonful salt, and a bouquet ; cover and boil 20 minutes ; then 
strain, add 1 teaspoonful beef extract, Yg can button mushrooms ; 
cook 15 minutes ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Yg cup cream, add it 
slowly to the soup ; if necessary add more salt, and serve. In place 
of canned mushrooms, 4 ounces of fresh mushrooms may be cleaned 
and used as directed. (See Musheooms.) 

Bread Soup. — Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan ; add 
2 fine-chopped onions, 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped celery, 1 fine- 
cut carrot, 1 leek cut into pieces ; cook 10 minutes, stirring con- 
stantly; then add 2 quarts boiling water and 1 cup bread crumbs ; 
season with Ys tablespoonful salt, and boil 40 minutes ; then strain ; 
add 1 teaspoonful beef extract, little nutmeg, 1 tablespoonful fine- 
chopped parsley, few spoonfuls of cream, or a little unsweetened 
condensed milk. In place of beef extract, mix the yolks of 3 eggs 
with Y4 cupful cream or milk, and add it to the soup ; let it get 
hot, but not boil ; then serve. 

Pea Soup of Split Peas.— Wash 1 pint split peas ; put them 
with 2 quarts cold water in saucepan over the fire ; add Y2 table- 
spoonful salt ; as soon as it boils, add Y2 cupful fine-cut celery, and 
1 large peeled potato, cut into pieces. Fry in 1 tablespoonful but- 
ter or drippings 2 fine-chopped onions 5 minutes ; add them to the 
soup with 1 fine-cut carrot, cover the saucepan, and boil the soup 
till done ; season to taste with salt and a little white pepper ; serve 
with small squares of toasted bread. If this soup is to be extra nice, 
add a little beef extract and Y2 cup of cream ; also 1 tablespoonful 
unsweetened condensed milk is an improvement ; a small piece of 
bone from a boiled ham may be boiled with the peas. 

Green-Pea Soup. — Shell 2 quarts of fresh green peas, placa 
the shells in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and cook 1 hour ; 



SOUPS, Etc. 63 

then drain off the water into a clean sancepan, return to the fire, 
and as soon as boiling add 1 cupful young carrots, cut in julienne ; 
cook 15 minutes ; then add the peas, season with Yg tablespoonful of 
salt, and cook 30 minutes ; melt 1 tablespoonful butter, add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir a few minutes over the fire ; add it to the soup, 
cook a few minutes longer ; remove from fire, add 1 tablespoonful 
fine-chopped parsley, and serve. If handy, add a few tablespoonfuls 
of cream. Small sponge dumpling may be boiled in the soup. 

Bean Soup. — Soak 1 pint white beans for several hours in cold 
water ; then drain and put them with 2 quarts cold water over the 
fire ; wash and scald in boiling water Yg pound of lean salt pork ; 
add the pork to the beans ; as soon as it boils, add Yg cupful fine- 
cut soup celery, 1 carrot, and 2 onions; cover and cook till the 
beans are tender; then strain the soup, season to taste with salt, 
and serve with small pieces of toasted bread. This soup may be 
served without being strained, as some prefer to have the beans 
whole in the soup. A little beef extract and Ys cup cream is 
always an improvement to this kind of soup, but it is very nice 
without them. 

Tomato Soup. — Melt Ys tablespoonful butter in a saucepan ; 
add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onions, the same of carrots and 
celery, cook 6 minutes without browning ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, 
stir for a few minutes ; then add lYg pint boiling water and 1 can 
of tomatoes ; season with 1 teaspoonf ul salt, Ys teaspoonful pepper, 
1 tablespoonful sugar, a bouquet, and lYs teaspoonful beef extract ; 
boil 30 minutes ; then strain and serve. 

Onion Soup. — Parboil for 5 minutes 4 large white onions ; then 
remove and chop them fine, add 1 tablespoonful grated carrot; 
place them in a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful drippings, or if any 
fat from beefsteak is at hand, cut it into small pieces, and fry it with 
the onions and carrot ; cook 6 minutes, stirring constantly ; add 1 
heaping tablespoonful flour, stir for a few minutes ; then add 2 quarts 
boiling water, 1 teaspoonful salt, Yg teaspoonful pepper, and 1 table- 



64 SOUPS, Etc. 

spoonful liquid beef extract ; cover and cook 30 minutes ; then 
strain ; if necessary add more salt and beef extract ; add last 1 
tablespoonful unsweetened condensed milk, or Yg cupful cream, and 



FRUIT AND WINE SOUPS. 

Apple Soup, No. 1. — Pare and stew 8 fine juicy apples; 
squeeze them through a sieve, sweeten with sugar, add 1 quart of 
water, a little lemon peel, a stick of cinnamon, and 1 tablespoonful 
cornstarch ; place this over the fire again and boil 10 minutes ; take 
cinnamon and lemon peel out and set it aside to cool. In the 
meantime pare and core 4 large apples, cut each one into 8 parts, 
drop them into sugar sirup, and boil till tender, but do not let the 
pieces break. Take them out, lay in the tureen ; strain the sirup, 
pour it with the soup and Yg pint white wine into the tureen over 
the apples, and serve with zwieback. 

Apple Soup, No. 2. — Prepare an apple sauce of 8 or 10 apples ; 
add 6 cups boiling water; strain it through a sieve, sweeten with 
sugar, and place this in a saucepan over the fire ; as soon as it boils, 
add 2 tablespoonfuls sago, a few slices of lemon from which the 
seeds have been removed, and boil 10 minutes. Serve with zwie- 
back, or boil small flour or sponge dumplings in the soup. 

Peach Soup. — Pare and quarter 5 large peaches, sprinkle over 
some sugar, and set them in a cool place. Pare 10 peaches more ; 
remove the stones, crack them, extract the kernels and scald these 
with boiling water, remove the brown skin. Press the peaches 
through a coarse sieve ; boil ^4 pound sugar with 1 cup of water for 
10 minutes ; then add the kernels, the pressed-peach puree, and 1 
bottle of Ehine wine, and pour this soup over the peaches in the 
tureen. Serve, when cold, with zwieback. 

Cherry Soup. — Stone Vg pound sour cherries, boil them 5 
minutes with sugar and a cup of water; then pour them in a 
tureen and set in a cool place ; pound lYg pound cherries with the 



SOUPS, Etc. 65 

stones fine, boil with 2 quarts water and ly^ cup of sugar 20 min- 
utes ; strain the soup through a fine sieve, and let it get cold ; 
shortly before serving add some Ehine wine, and pour the soup 
over the cherries in the tureen. The soup may be thickened with 
cornstarch or zwieback, if liked. 

Currant Soup. — Remove the stems from 2 pounds of large 
ripe red currants, take out the seeds from Y4 of them with a pointed 
toothpick ; boil 5 minutes with Y^ cup sugar and a little water ; pour 
them in the tureen, and set in a cool place. The remaining currants 
place in a saucepan over the fire with 2 quarts water, 1 pound sugar, 
and boil 20 minutes. Strain the soup and pour it with Yg bottle 
Rhine wine or claret over the currants, and serve cold, with zwie- 
back. 

Grape Soup. — May be made in the same way as currant soup. 

Raspberry Soup. — Take Yg pound from 2 pounds of raspber- 
ries, sprinkle sugar over, put them in a tureen, and place in a cool 
place. The remaining berries put in a porcelain dish, mash them 
with a silver spoon, and press through a sieve ; dissolve Y4 pound 
sugar in 1 quart cold water, add it to the raspberry puree with some 
Rhine wine, and pour this over the raspberries in the tureen. Serve 
with lady fingers or macaroons. 

Gooseberry Soup. — Wash and stew 2 pounds gooseberries with 
2 quarts water and 1 pound sugar ; then strain through a sieve, and 
put over the fire again ; as soon as the soup boils, dissolve 2 table- 
spoonfuls of cornstarch with a little cold water, add it to the soup, 
and boil for 5 minutes ; take it from the fire, add some Rhine wine, 
and serve with zwieback. Sponge dumplings may be boiled in the 
soup. 

Strawberry Soup (Kalte Schale).— Take Ys pound from 2 
pounds of strawberries, wash and place them in the tureen, sprinkle 
over some sugar, and set them in a cool place. (If the strawberries 
are clean, they need not be washed.) Put the remaining berries in 
a porcelain dish, and mash them with a silver spoon. Dissolve 1 



66 SOUPS, Etc. 

pound sugar in 3 pints cold water, mix it with the mashed berries, 
add the juice of 1 lemon ; strain through a fine sieve, add some 
Khine wine or champagne, and pour the soup over the berries in the 
tureen. Serve ice-cold with zwieback. 

Huckleberry Soup. — Wash and stew 1 quart of huckleberries 
with 1 quart water, 2 large zwiebacks, 4 tablespoonfuls sugar, a stick 
of cinnamon, and boil 20 minutes ; strain through a sieve, add some 
Port wine or claret, to taste, and serve with zWieback ; or boil sponge 
or farina dumplings in the soup. 

Pineapple Soup. — Pare 1 large ripe pineapple, cut it from the 
top down into 6 pieces, remove the thick stem from the center ; cut 
the 6 pieces into fine slices, lay them in the tureen, and sprinkle 
sugar over. Chop up the eyes and stems, boil them Yg hour, with 3 
pints of water. Strain through a napkin, and put this liquor with 
1 pound sugar over the fire ; boil a few minutes, then add a few 
lemon slices, without the pits, Yg bottle Rhine wine, and pour the 
soup over the pineapple slices in the tureen. Serve ice-cold. 

Lemon Soup. — Mix 3 tablespoonfuls arrowroot with Ys cup of 
cold water ; pour this into 1 quart of boiling water ; add the peel 
of 1 lemon, 5 tablespoonfuls sugar, and boil 5 minutes ; add the 
juice of 1 lemon and 1 pint of white wine. Serve ice-cold with 
zwieback. 

Prune Soup. — Wash and stew 1 pound dried prunes wdth 
lemon peel, a piece of cinnamon, and sugar until done ; then take 
Yg of the prunes and put them in the tureen ; press the other half 
through a sieve, and put them with the other prunes in the tureen. 
At the same time boil Ys pound large barley in water without salt 
till tender, which takes from 3 to 4 hours ; when done pour it into a 
colander ; drain all the liquor from the barley, pour some more 
water over until you have about 3 pints of barley water, add 1 cup 
of Sherry or Madeira wine ; pour the soup over the boiled prunes in 
the tureen. If not sweet enough add more sugar. The wine may 



SOUPS, Etc. - 6Y 

be omitted and lemon juice used. This soup is excellent for 
invalids. 

Wine Soup. — Wash Yi pound sago, boil with lYg quart of water 
and a few lemon slices without the pits ; add a piece of cinnamon 
and sugar to taste. As soon as the sago is done take it from the 
fire, add 1 bottle of red or white wine, and serve. Instead of sago 
very fine barley may be taken. 

Wine Zwieback Soup. — Roll 8 large zwiebacks fine ; put them 
with 1 quart water over the fire, add some lemon peel and boil 10 
minutes ; pass this puree through a colander, thin it with white 
wine, and sweeten to taste with sugar. Serve cold with zwieback. 

Wine Cream Soup. — Place 1 quart white wine, 1 quart water, 
1 tablespoonful cornstarch, the yolks of 6 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls 
sugar, juice of 1 lemon, also the rind, in a saucepan ; beat this with 
an egg beater for 2 or 3 minutes, then put the saucepan over the 
fire ; keep on beating until it comes to the boiling point, then 
remove quickly, as it must not boil ; beat the whites to a froth ; 
pour the soup in the tureen ; form with a teaspoon small snowballs 
from the beaten whites, and put them in the soup ; sprinkle some 
sugar over them and cover the tureen up. Set it in a cool place, 
and serve ice-cold. 

BEER AND MILE SOUPS. 

Soup a la Biere. — Put 2 pints of beer in a saucepan, add 1 
pint water, sugar to taste, Yg tablespoonful cornstarch, and the 
yolks of 4 eggs ; beat this for a few minutes, then place over the 
fire ; beat it constantly until it comes to a boil ; pour it in the 
tureen, add 1 pint of boiling milk ; have the whites of the eggs 
beaten to a stiff froth ; lay with a teaspoon little snowballs on top 
of the soup, sprinkle sugar over them ; cover the tureen up, and 
serve either hot or cold. 

Beer Soup a la Creme. — Put in a saucepan 1 quart beer, 1 
quart water, 1 tablespoonful fiour or cornstarch, sugar to taste, the 



68 SOUPS, Etc. 

peel of 1 lemon, a piece of cinnamon, and 4 whole eggs ; place the 
saucepan over the fire ; beat constantly with an egg beater until it 
comes to a boil ; then take it quickly from the fire, pour the soup in 
the tureen, and serve with little square pieces of toast. 

Milk Soup with Snowballs.— Put 1 quart milk with the 
yolks of 4 eggs, sugar to taste, in a saucepan over the fire ; beat 
with an egg beater until the milk comes to a boil ; then remove 
quick from the fire, add 1 teaspoonful vanilla flavor and pour into 
the tureen ; beat the whites to a stiff froth and lay with a teaspoon 
small snowballs from it on top of the soup ; sprinkle a little sugar 
over them, and serve either warm or cold. 

Milk Soup — Plain. — Let 2 quarts milk with a little salt, 1 
teaspoonful sugar, come to a boil ; mix 4 tablespoonfuls of flour 
with 1 cup of milk, pour it into the boiling milk ; keep stirring 
constantly ; boil 2 minutes, and serve. If too thick add a little 
more milk. 

Milk Soup with Dumplings. — Place as much milk as is 
wanted for soup over the fire ; add a little salt, a sprinkle of sugar, 
small piece of butter, and boil small bread or flour dumplings in it ; 
and then serve, to be eaten hot. 

Milk Soup with Oatmeal.— Place 1 cupful oatmeal with cold 
water and a little salt over the fire ; boil slowly until done. Then 
press it through a colander and thin it with milk, let the soup boil 
up, and then serve. 

Milk Soup with Sago.— Put 2 quarts with V2 teaspoonful of 
salt and the same of sugar in a saucepan over the fire ; as soon as 
the milk boils have Y4 pound sago washed, add it to the boiling milk, 
boil till done, and serve. 

Milk Soup with Rice. — Put Y4 pound of rice with cold water 
over the fire ; boil it a few minutes ; strain in a sieve, rinse off with 
cold water ; then place the rice in a saucepan with 2 quarts cold 
milk over the fire again ; add Y2 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful 



SOUPS, Etc. 69 

butter, and Vg teaspoonful of sugar ; boil slowly until the rice is 
done, but not broken, and serve. 

Milk Soup with Farina.— Boil 2 quarts milk; add Vg tea- 
spoonful salt, the same of sugar, and let 4 tablespoonfuls of farina 
run slowly into the boiling milk, and boil in a double boiler 20 
minutes. Serve either hot or cold. In summer it may be placed 
on ice. 

Milk Soup with Buckwheat Grits.— Let 2 quarts milk come 
to a boil, add Yi pound buckwheat grits, a little salt, Yg teaspoon- 
ful sugar, and boil 15 minutes. Serve either hot or cold. 

Milk Soup with Egg Crumbs.— Boil 2 quarts of milk with 
Y2 tablespoonful butter, Y2 teaspoonful salt, sprinkle in 1 cupful egg 
crumbs (which are made of nudle paste ; see Nudles) into the boil- 
ing milk ; boil 3 minutes, and then serve. 

Milk Soup with Nudles. — Boil 2 quarts of milk, add a little 
salt, sugar, and butter ; put in Y3 the nudles that are made of 1 egg^ 
and boil from 10 to 15 minutes. 

Buttermilk with Barley. — Place a saucepan with 2 quarts 
buttermilk and 1 cup of barley over the fire ; boil slowly until done, 
■which will take about 3 hours ; frequent stirring is necessary, as it 
burns easily (the best way is to boil it in a double boiler) ; if it 
should be too thick add more buttermilk ; serve either hot or cold 
with sweet milk. Some prefer to eat it with sirup. This is a 
national dish in the country in the northern part of Germany. 

Buttermilk with Rice. — Place 2 quarts buttermilk with 1 
cup well- washed rice in a saucepan ; add Ys teaspoonful salt, and 
boil till the rice is done. Serve with sweet milk. 

Buttermilk Soup. — Break some stale rye bread or pumper- 
nickel into small pieces, 1 pint in all ; place it with 2 quarts 
buttermilk in a saucepan over the fire, and boil 1 hour ; add 1 tea- 
spoonful aniseed, and sirup or sugar enough to sweeten it, serve 
hot or cold. Another way is to strain the soup, and shortly before 



70 SOUPS, Etc. 

serving add the yolks of 3 eggs. The aniseed may be omitted if 
not liked. Instead of bread, a tablespoonful of flour may be taken 
to each quart of buttermilk ; sweeten with sugar, and finish with 
the yolks of 2 eggs. 

Buttermilk Soup with Dumplings. — Place a saucepan with 
2 quarts buttermilk over the fire, add % cup of sirup ; mix the yolks 
of 2 eggs with Yg teaspoonful salt, add ^g cup milk, 1 heaping cup 
of sifted flour, Yg ounce butter ; mix this into a thick, smooth batter ; 
beat the whites to a stiff froth, stir them lightly through the batter ; 
as soon as the buttermilk boils, drop small portions into it with a 
teaspoon and boil 8 minutes ; then serve. 

Chocolate Soup. — Grate Y4 pound of chocolate, place it in a 
saucepan, with 1 cup of water ; boil 5 minutes, stirring constantly ; 
then add 2 quarts cold milk, the yolks of 4 eggs, sugar to taste, and 
beat with an egg beater until the milk comes to a boil ; then take it 
quickly from the fire and pour into the tureen. Have the whites 
beaten to a stiff froth, and place with a teaspoon small snowballs in 
the soup ; sprinkle some sugar over them and cover the tureen for a 
few minutes ; then serve. This soup may be served ice-cold. 

Egg Custard for Soup. — Mix 4 eggs with 4 tablespoonfuls 
water and 4 of milk, little salt, and nutmeg ; pour this into a but- 
tered bowl, set the bowl in a saucepan of hot water, cover and boil 
until firm ; then remove it from the fire, cut with a teaspoon small 
portions and drop them in the soup, and serve. Another way is to 
mix 4 eggs with a teaspoonful butter, a little fine-chopped parsley, 
nutmeg, and 1 cup of bouillon, and finish the same as above. 

Soup Biscuit. — Mix 2 ounces of fiour with 1 ounce butter 
smoothly together on a plate ; put this into a saucepan with 1 cup 
of boiling milk, stir over the fire until formed into a smooth paste ; 
then set off to cool. Stir 1 ounce of butter to a cream, add alter- 
nately the yolks of 3 eggs and the paste ; season with salt ; add the 
whites beaten to a stiff froth ; mix well together. Butter and flour 
a long tin pan, pour the mixture into it, and bake 20 minutes. 



SOUPS, Etc. 71 

When done, turn the biscuit out of pan, cut it into small fine slices, 
and lay them in the tureen with some boiling consomme. 

Farina Biscuit. — Place 1 cup milk, with 1 tablespoonful butter, 
over the fire, add gradually y^ pound farina, stir it constantly until 
the whole of the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, then remove. 
When cold, mix the boiled farina with the yolks of 4 eggs, 2 table- 
spoonfuls grated cheese, a little salt, and the whites beaten to a 
froth. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered and floured tin pan, 
and bake 20 minutes. Shortly before serving turn the biscuit on a 
long plate ; cut it into fine slices, lay them in the tureen, pour over 
clear bouillon, and then serve. 



Crumbs. — Take 1 cup flour, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of 
water, and a little salt ; work this into a stiff dough, lay it on the 
pastry board, and knead it well, adding as much flour as the dough 
possibly will take up. Grate the dough on the grater, spread the 
egg crumbs all over the board to dry for a half hour, then boil them 
from 3 to 5 minutes in 3 quarts of bouillon for soup, or 2 quarts 
milk for milk soup. If not all used at one time, the crumbs may 
be placed in a box ; they will keep in a dry place for some time. 

Kaiser Nockerls. — Beat up the yolks of 3 eggs, mix them with 
1 tablespoonful flour, 1 cup milk, a little salt, and grated nutmeg ; 
pour this mixture into a tin cup or kettle, place it in a saucepan 
with boiling water, and boil until it becomes firm. Shortly before 
serving, take with a teaspoon little pieces from it, and lay them into 
the prepared soup. 



FORCEMEAT. 

Forcemeat Border. — Prepare a forcemeat of chicken, game, 
fish, or veal, put it into a buttered border mold ; 30 minutes before 
serving, place the mold in a pan, with sufficient water to reach half 
way up the form ; cover with buttered paper, and bake in a medium 
hot oven from 20 to 25 minutes. When ready to serve, turn the 
border on to a hot dish, put a ragout or salpicon in the center, and 
lay on top the border some fillets of game or chicken. If fish is to 
be served with a border, take fish forcemeat, oyster, lobster, or crab 
ragout in center, and fillets of fish on top the border. 

Liver Forcemeat, No. 1. — Procure a nice calf's liver, remove 
skin and veins, cut the liver into square pieces, place in a saucepan, 
cover with boiling water, boil 5 minutes; then drain in a sieve. 
Place a saucepan with Yg pound fine-cut larding pork over the fire, 
fry few minutes ; add 2 fine-chopped onions, cook 5 minutes ; add 
the liver, a bouquet, Yg tablespoonful salt, Yg teaspoonful pepper, 
stir frequently, and cook 10 minutes ; remove, and when cold, chop 
it fine or grind it in a meat grinder. Boil Y4 cup of water, add Y2 
ounce butter, Ys cupful flour, stir and cook till it forms into a smooth 
paste ; then remove ; put the fine-chopped livers in a wooden chop- 
ping bowl, and pound it with a potato masher ; add the paste, 1 
whole egg, and 3 yolks ; pound all the ingredients well together, 
and use for forcemeats, balls, borders, and for stuffing poultry, 
shoulder or breast of veal. 

Liver Forcemeat, No. 2. — Soak 4 ounces stale bread without 
the rind for 10 minutes in cold water, then inclose it in a towel and 
press out all the water ; melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan ; add 2 

73 



FORCEMEAT. ' Y3 

tablespoonf uls fine-minced onion, cook 5 minutes without browning ; 
add the bread, and stir till it forms into a paste and loosens itself 
from bottom of saucepan ; withdraw from fire and set aside to cool. 
Eemove the skin and veins from 1 pound of calf's liver, chop very 
fine ; add it to the bread ; season with 1 even tablespoonf ul salt, 1 
even teaspoonful pepper, the yolk of 1 egg, and 1 whole egg. 

Teal Forcemeat, No. 1. — Procure 1 pound of lean veal from 
the leg, grind or chop it very fine, mix it with Yg pound fine-chopped 
suet or prepared calf's udder ; put in a wooden chopping bowl, and 
pound the two ingredients well together. Boil 1 cupful water with 
1 ounce butter, add % cupful flour, stir and cook till it forms to a 
paste, then remove ; add it to the other ingredients ; also 1 whole 
and the yolks of 2 eggs; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, 
Ys teaspoonful nutmeg, and 1 even teaspoonful white pepper ; 
pound all together, and use for filling poultry, forcemeat balls, 
and dumplings. 

Teal Forcemeat, No. 2.— Chop fine 1 pound of lean veal and 
4 ounces larding pork or suet. Soak 4 ounces of 2-days'-old baker's 
bread for 10 minutes in cold water, press it out in a napkin. Melt 
1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 fine-chopped onion, stir and 
cook 5 minutes ; then add the bread, stir and cook 5 minutes ; re- 
move, and when cold, add it to the meat and pork or suet ; season 
with 1 teaspoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful pepper, Y2 teaspoonful thyme, 
and 2 eggs; mix all well together, and use for stuffing poultry, 
shoulder and breast of veal, or for other purposes. If this force- 
meat is to be used for forcemeat balls, omit the thyme. 

Forcemeat with Fine Herbs.— Place a saucepan with 2 
tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion and 2 ounces butter over the 
fire; add a small clove of bruised garlic, Y2 cupful fine-chopped 
mushrooms, 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, cook 5 minutes. 
Soak 4 ounces bread, without the rind, in cold water, inclose it in a 
towel, and press out all the water ; add it to the saucepan, stir until 
it forms into a smooth paste ; then remove ; when cold mix it with 



74 FORCEMEAT. 

4 ounces fine-chopped veal, 4 ounces fine-chopped fresh pork ; sea- 
son with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Yg even teaspoonful pepper, add 
the yolk of 1 egg, and 1 whole egg. In place of veal, some pork 
chops can be chopped and used the same way. 

Forcemeat a I'Espagnole. — Melt 1 ounce butter in a sauce- 
pan, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onions, cook 5 minutes with- 
out browning; add 1 cupful tomatoes, 1 cupful seedless raisins, 1 
cupful chopped blanched almonds, 6 fine-cut olives, 2 tablespoon- 
fuls capers, stir and cook 10 minutes ; then remove from fire, and 
when cold, mix it with Yg pound fine-chopped veal, and Ys pound 
sausage meat, 3 fine-chopped hard-boiled eggs ; season with 1 tea- 
spoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful pepper ; mix all together, and use for 
stuffing turkey and chickens. 

Giblet Forcemeat. — Soak Ys pound of stale baker's bread, 
without the rind, for 10 minutes in cold water, inclose it in a towel, 
and press out all the water; melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 
1 fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes ; then add it to the bread ; 
season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Yg even teaspoonful pepper, Y4 
teaspoonful nutmeg, Y2 teaspoonful thyme ; add the fine-chopped 
giblets of 1 chicken, and 1 egg ; mix all together and use for stuff- 
ing chicken. Turkey giblets are prepared the same way, also 
pigeons and game. 

Oyster Forcemeat. — One and a half cupful rolled soda crack- 
ers, 10 large oysters, chopped fine, Y2 pii^t of oyster liquor, the yolk 
of 1 egg, and 1 whole egg ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ys 
even teaspoonful pepper, 1 ounce butter, Ys tablesjsoonful fine- 
chopped parsley ; mix all together, and use for filling poultry and fish. 

Cliestnut Forcemeat. — Place a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful 
fine-chopped onion and 2 ounces butter over the fire, cook 5 min- 
utes, without browning ; add 6 ounces fine-chopped fresh pork, 
from the loin ; add 12 fine-chopped mushrooms, 12 finely pounded 
cooked chestnuts, stir and cook 5 minutes longer ; remove from the 
fire ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful pepper, and Ya 



FORCEMEAT. 75 

pound whole-peeled and cooked chestnuts, 3 tablespoonfuls of bread 
crumbs, mix all together, and use for stuflBng poultry. Another 
way is to boil 1 pound of peeled chestnuts in milk till tender, then 
pound them fine, and mix with 2 ounces butter, little salt and pep- 
per, and use for stuffing ; or mix with this puree 4 ounces sausage 
meat and 1 ounce of butter. 

Forcemeat with Almonds. — Half pound fine-minced chicken 
or veal meat, 2 ounces minced larding pork, 1 whole egg and 1 
yolk, 1 tablespoonful butter, stirred to a cream ; 2 ounces bread 
soaked in milk and pressed out, 4 tablespoonfuls fine-minced al- 
monds, a little nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste ; work the whole 
well together, and use for filling poultry or birds. In place of al- 
monds, chestnuts may be taken. 

American Forcemeat. — Fry 2 fine-chopped onions in 2 ounces 
butter ; add to this the crumbs of a loaf of bread, previously soaked 
in cold water, and pressed out ; stir for five minutes over the fire ; 
then set it off to cool. Mix it with salt and pepper to taste, 2 eggs, 
2 teaspoonfuls of sage, a little nutmeg, and Yg pound sausage meat. 
A plainer dressing is 2 cups bread crumbs, 1 tablespoonful butter, 
a little salt and pepper ; if seasoning is liked, add some thyme, sage, 
or mayron. 

Sausage Forcemeat. — Soak Yg pound of stale baker's bread 
for 10 minutes in cold water, then inclose it in a napkin, and press 
out all the water. Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the 
fire, add Ys cupful fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes without 
browning ; then add the bread, stir, and cook 5 minutes ; remove, 
and when cold, mix it with 1 pound of sausage meat ; season with 1 
even teaspoonful salt, Ys even teaspoonful pepper, Ys teaspoonful 
thyme, add the yolks of 2 eggs or 1 whole egg ; mix all together, 
and use for filling poultry, shoulder of lamb, spare ribs, fresh 
roasted ham, and shoulder or breast of veal. 

Fine Fish Forcemeat. — Chop fine 1 pound of fish meat, 
either from halibut, weakfish, or fresh codfish ; mix. it. with. 5 



76 FORCEMEAT. 

ounces panada of pate a chou, 4 ounces butter, the yolks of 3 eggs, 
and 1 whole egg ; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; mix all 
together, and place it for 1 hour on ice ; then use for filling fish, 
or for small dumplings for ragouts, or for garnishing. 

Plain Fish Forcemeat. — Soak 2 ounces stale bread without 
the rind 10 minutes in cold water, inclose it in a towel and press out 
all the water. Place a small saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter 
over the fire ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, cook 5 min- 
utes without browning ; then add the bread, stir until it forms into 
a smooth paste ; then remove ; when cold mix with Yg pound fine- 
chopped fish meat, season with salt and pepper, and a little thyme, 
the yolk of 1 egg, and 1 whole egg ; use it for filling fish. 

French Fish Forcemeat. — With an egg beater beat 4 eggs 
very light, add a little salt, and 4 tablespoonfuls water ; then beat 
again for a few minutes. Place a frying pan over the fire with Yg 
tablespoonful butter ; when hot pour in the beaten eggs, stir slowly 
until they are thick ; remove them from the fire, and mix with Y2 
pound fine-minced fish meat, 1 cup bread crumbs, 1 whole egg, 2 
ounces of butter, stirred to a cream ; salt and pepper to taste ; a 
little nutmeg or thyme may be added if liked ; use for filling fish 
and small dumplings. In place of fish, sausage meat, veal, or 
chicken meat may be used. 

Corn Filling. — Soak 4 ounces stale baker's bread for 10 minutes 
in cold water, then inclose it in a napkin and press out all the 
water. Place a saucepan with 4 ounces fine-chopped suet over the 
fire ; add Y2 giU fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes without brown- 
ing ; season with 1 teaspoonf ul salt and Y* teaspoonf ul pepper ; 
add the bread, stir and cook 5 minutes ; then remove. Cut the 
corn from the cob of three large ears of fresh corn, or take Y2 can 
of canned corn ; when the bread is cooled off, mix it with the corn 
and 2 well-beaten eggs. This dressing is excellent for shoulder or 
breast of veal, lamb, or chicken. 



FORCEMEAT. 77 

Tomato Forcemeat. — Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 
Y2 cupful fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes without browning ; 
drain off the liquid from 1 can of tomatoes, add the tomatoes to 
the onion ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Yg teaspoonf ul pepper, 1 
tablespoonful sugar, cook fifteen minutes ; remove and set aside to 
cool. Rub 4 ounces stale bread without the crust into crumbs, put 
it on a tin pan, set it for 10 minutes in the oven to dry ; then re- 
move, and when cold mix it with the tomatoes, 1 egg, and 4 ounces 
sausage meat, and use for stuffing fish. 

Game Forcemeat. — Place 4 ounces fine-cut larding pork in a 
saucepan over the fire, fry a few minutes ; then add Yg pound fine- 
cut game meat, either of venison, the fillet of hare, rabbits, par- 
tridges, or prairie hens ; add 1 gill of fine-chopped onion, a bouquet, 
Ys teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, and Ys teaspoonful nut- 
meg ; stir frequently, and cook 10 minutes ; then remove. When 
cold, add 4 ounces raw game meat, remove the bouquet, chop all 
the ingredients very fine. Boil Ys cupful water with 1 teaspoonful 
butter in a small saucepan ; add Ys cupful flour, stir and cook till it 
forms a paste ; then remove ; add it to the forcemeat, with 1 whole 
egg and two yolks, pound the whole very fine, and, if necessary, 
add more salt or pepper. 

Fine Chicken Forcemeat. — See Chicken. 

Lohster Forcemeat. — See Lobster. 

Crab Forcemeat.— See Crab. 

Clam Forcemeat. — See Clams. 



FORCEMEAT BALLS AND DUMPLINGS. 

Beef Forcemeat Balls. — Chop fine or grind in a meat grind- 
er Yg pound lean beef, season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, '/g tea- 
spoonful pepper, Yg teaspoonful grated nutmeg. Soak 2 slices of 
stale bread, without the rind, in cold water till soft, press out in a 
towel and measure it ; there should be Ys pint. Place a saucepan 
with 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire, add 1 tablespoonful of 
very finely chopped onion, cook 5 minutes without browning ; 
then add the soaked bread, stir 6 minutes over the fire ; when 
cold mix the meat and bread together, add the yolk of 2 eggs, and 
the beaten white of 1 egg ; when well mixed, form with the hands 
into small balls, like a hickory nut ; wet the hands a little at times 
with cold water, so as to roll the balls perfectly smooth ; then drop 
them on a plate, dust with flour ; drop the balls into the boiling 
soup, cook 8 minutes, or boil them in salted water ; take them out 
with a skimmer, lay them in the tureen, and pour the strained soup 
over. These meat balls are also very nice boiled in chicken fricassee. 

Forcemeat Balls of Sausage Meat.— Take Ya pound of 
sausage meat, 1 cup of bread previously soaked in cold water and 
pressed dry, 1 egg, some salt, pepper, and a little ground mace ; mix 
these ingredients well together with a wooden spoon. Dust some 
flour on a pastry board, take a tablespoonful of the forcemeat, roll it 
into a long roll a finger thick, continue until all the forcemeat is 
formed into rolls ; cut each roll into pieces the size of a marble, 
roll these with the help of some flour into little round balls, put 
them on a plate, dust flour over them, shake the plate so that they 
cover themselves with flour. After all are prepared in this way 
boil them in the soup for ten minutes, or in boiling salted water. 

78 



FORCEMEAT BALLS AND DUMPLINGS. 79 

Liver Dumplings. — Place a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful 
butter over the fire, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, a 
small piece of bruised garlic the size of a coffee bean ; cook 5 min- 
utes without browning ; soak Y2 loaf of 2-days'-old baker's bread, 
without the rind, in cold water, inclose in a towel and press out all 
the water ; add it to the saucepan, stir and cook 5 minutes ; then 
remove ; when cold add Y2 pound fine-chopped calf's or lamb's liver 
and 2 whole eggs ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful 
pepper, Y4 teaspoonful thyme, a little marjoram, and mix all well 
together ; then cut with a tablespoon small portions from the mix- 
ture, drop it into salted boiling water ; cook ten minutes ; then 
remove the dumplings carefully with a skimmer ; serve with sauer- 
kraut, or any other vegetable. 

Liver Dumplings for Soup. — One half cupful fine-cut calf's 
or lamb's liver, Y2 cupful grated bread crumbs, 1 ounce butter, small 
grated onion, Y2 teaspoonful salt. Yd teaspoonful pepper, the yolk of 
1 egg, and the white beaten to a stiff froth. Mix the liver, bread 
crumbs, salt, and pepper together ; add the onion, the melted butter, 
the yolk, and last the beaten white. Cut with a teaspoon small 
portions from the preparation and drop into boiling soup ; boil 
6 minutes ; then serve. Or boil the dumplings in boiling salted 
water, and lay them in the soup. 

Liver Balls. — Stir 3 ounces of butter to a cream ; add by de- 
grees 3 eggs, 3 ounces bread crumbs, Y2 pound fine-minced or 
scraped calf's liver, some salt and pepper, and, if liked, a little 
grated onion. When well mixed, cut with a teaspoon small portions 
from this, drop them into the soup ; boil from 8 to 10 minutes ; or 
mold them into little round balls. 

Liver a la Royal. — Eemove the skin and tough parts from Y2 
pound of calf's liver or of poultry liver ; chop it fine ; put it in a 
saucepan with 1 ounce butter and 1 fine-chopped onion, and cook 
slowly 10 minutes ; add IY2 cup bouillon, boil Y2 hour ; press 
through a sieve ; mix with the yolks of 4 eggs, a little salt, and 



80 FORCEMEAT BALLS AND DUMPLINGS. 

pepper ; then place it in a double boiler, and boil until firm. Short- 
ly before serving cut it into fine slices and lay them in the prepared 
soup. A Royal of Calf's Brain is made the same way. 

Dumplings with Prepared Flour.— Mix together 1 cup of 
prepared flour, Yg teaspoonful butter, 1 egg, 3 tablespoonf uls water ; 
form with a tablespoon small dumplings, drop them into boiling 
salted water, cover, and cook 6 minutes ; instantly remove with a 
skimmer and serve. This will make 9 dumplings. They may be 
boiled in fricassees or stews. 

Flour Dumplings. — Stir 2 ounces butter to a cream, add grad- 
ually the yolks of 2 eggs, Yg teaspoonful salt ; then add alternately 
IY2 even cup flour and Y2 cup of milk, and last the beaten whites. 
Form with a tablespoon dumplings the size of an egg, drop them 
into boiling salted water; cover and boil from 6 to 8 minutes or 
until done (which may be ascertained by cutting one through the 
center ; if dry, it is done ; if not, the boiling must be continued a 
little longer). These dumplings are served with roasted meat ; if 
wanted for soup they are formed with a teaspoon. 

Thuringer Dumplings. — Place a saucepan with 3 large peeled 
potatoes over the fire ; cover with 1 pint of cold water ; add Y2 table- 
spoonful salt, and boil till tender ; drain off the water and mash 
them fine. At the same time grate 3 large peeled and well- washed 
raw potatoes, drain off some of the water; add them to the hot 
mashed potatoes ; season with Ys teaspoonful salt ; mix well to- 
gether ; add the yolks of 2 eggs, 3 tablespoonf uls grated bread 
crumbs, and the beaten whites. Form this into balls the size of an 
egg, drop them into a large saucepan of boiling salted water, boil 15 
minutes ; remove with a skimmer, and serve. 

Potato Dumplings of Raw Potatoes. — Peel, wash, and 
grate 6 large potatoes, dip off some of the black water, then meas- 
ure them for 1 pint grated potatoes ; add the yolk of 2 eggs, 2 table- 
spoonfuls prepared flour (or Y2 cupful grated bread crumbs), 1 tea- 
spoonful salt, and the beaten whites ; cut with a tablespoon portions 



FORCEMEAT BALLS AND DUMPLINGS. 81 

the size of an egg from this ; drop them into boiling salted water, 
and boil 15 minutes ; then remove with a skimmer, and serve. 
Another way is to fry 1 cupful small dice-shaped pieces of bread in 
2 ounces fine-cut larding pork, and mix them with the potatoes. 

Potato Balls for Soup. — Stir 2 ounces of butter to a cream, 
add by degrees the yolks of 3 eggs, 4 ounces boiled and grated 
potatoes, 1 tablespoonf ul farina, 1 teaspoonf ul fine-chopped parsley ; 
season with salt, Y4 teaspoonful white pepper, and last the whites 
beaten to a stiff froth. Form this preparation into small balls the 
size of a pigeon's egg, give them an oblong shape ; roll in flour and 
boil in boiling salted water 8 minutes. Kemove carefully, lay them 
in the soup, and serve. 

Cream Dumplings for Soup. — Mix 2 tablespoonfuls of thick 
sour cream with the yolks of 2 eggs ; add 1 cup of sifted flour, a 
little salt ; when this is well worked together, add the white of the 
eggs previously beaten to a froth ; shape into small dumplings with 
a teaspoon ; boil 5 minutes in the soup. 



SMALL DUMPLINGS FOR FRUIT AND WINE 
SOUPS. 

Zwieback Dumplings. — Stir 2 ounces butter to a cream ; add 
the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 cupfuls rolled zwieback crumbs, 2 tablespoon- 
fuls milk, 1 teaspoonf ul sugar ; let this stand 1 hour ; then add the 
2 beaten whites ; cut with a teaspoon small portions from this mix- 
ture and boil them 6 minutes in wine or fruit soup. If these dump- 
lings are to be boiled in meat soups, leave out the sugar. 

Rice-flour Dumplings. — Set a saucepan with Vs cup milk and 
1 ounce butter over the fire ; as soon as it boils add 2 ounces of rice 
flour, stir until it forms into a smooth paste and loosens itself from 
the bottom of saucepan ; then remove, turn the paste into a bowl ; 
when nearly cold add by degrees the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon- 
ful sugar ; last the beaten whites of the 2 eggs ; cut with a tea- 
spoon small portions from this mixture ; drop them into fruit or 
wine soups, and boil 6 minutes. The best way is to boil 1 dumpling; 
if too soft add a little dry farina, and if too firm, a little milk. 

Apple Balls for Fruit Soup.— Peel and core 4 large greening 
apples, place them in a pan, and bake in a medium hot oven ; when 
done press the apples through a sieve ; add the yolks of 3 eggs, IV2 
cup grated bread crumbs, Y2 tablespoonful butter, 2 teaspoonfuls 
sugar, 1 tablespoonful fine-cut citron, Y4 teaspoonful cinnamon; 
mix all well together ; let it stand 1 hour, then beat the 3 whites to 
a stiff froth, add them to the mixture ; shape into small balls either 
with a teaspoon or the hands, and boil in fruit soups. In place of 
apples any kind of fruit may be taken. 



SMALL DUMPLINGS FOR FRUIT AND WINE SOUPS. 83 

Farina Dumplings for Soup. — Place a small saucepan with 
Ys cupful milk over the fire ; add Y2 tablespoonf ul butter ; as soon 
as it boils add 3 tablespoonf uls farina, stir and cook till it forms 
into a smooth paste and loosens from bottom of saucepan. Eemove 
from the fire, turn the paste into a bowl, and when nearly cold mix 
it with the yolks of 2 eggs ; season with Y4 teaspoonful salt, Y4 tea- 
spoonful nutmeg, add last the whites beaten to a stiff froth ; mix 
all well together ; take with a teaspoon small portions from this, 
drop them into boiling salted water, boil five minutes ; then care- 
fully remove the dumplings with a skimmer, lay them in the tureen 
and pour the soup over them. 

Sponge Dumplings for Soup. — Place a small saucepan with 
Y2 cupful milk and 1 ounce butter over the fire ; when it begins to boil 
add Y2 cupful flour, stir and cook till it forms into a smooth paste ; 
then remove, and when nearly cold add the yolk of 2 eggs, Y4 tea- 
spoonful salt, and nutmeg ; add last the 2 whites beaten to a stiff 
froth ; stir until perfectly smooth ; then cut with a teaspoon small 
portions from this mixture, drop them into boiling salted water, 
boil 6 minutes ; remove them with a skimmer, lay in the tureen, 
and pour the soup over ; 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley may 
be added to the mixture if handy. 

Sponge Dumplings with Cheese.— One cup milk, 1 ounce 

butter, 1 cup flour, 2 whole eggs and 2 yolks, 2 tablespoonfuls of 
grated Parmesan cheese, little salt, and nutmeg. Place the milk 
and butter in a saucepan over the fire ; add flour as soon as it boils ; 
keep stirring until formed to a smooth paste and loosening itself 
from bottom of saucepan ; then put the paste into a dish, mix with 
the yolks, salt, and nutmeg. When cooled off, add the cheese and 
the whipped whites of the 2 eggs ; mix well ; take a small portion 
with a spoon and drop into boiling water (if too soft, add a little 
dry farina). Shortly before serving drop with a tablespoon small 
oblong dumplings into the soup, and boil about 8 minutes. 



84 SMALL DUMPLINGS FOR FRUIT AND WINE SOUPS. 

Sponge Dumplings for Fricassees. — Four ounces butter, 4 
ounces flour, Y2 pint of milk, 4 eggs, little salt, and nutmeg. Place 
a soupplate over a saucepan in which there is some hot water ; put 
half of the butter with the flour into the plate ; mix well together. 
Pour the milk in another saucepan ; as soon as it boils, add the 
mixed flour and butter, stirring constantly until it becomes a smooth 
paste and loosens itself from bottom of saucepan ; then put the 
paste into a dish, and set it aside to cool. Stir the remaining butter 
to a cream, add by degrees 4 yolks, the salt, nutmeg, and the paste. 
When the whole is well blended, add 1 tablespoonful dry farina 
and the whites beaten to a stiff froth ; form with a tablespoon into 
small oblong dumplings, drop into boiling salted water, boil 8 min- 
utes ; remove them with a skimmer, lay in a hot dish. Fry Yg 
cupful grated bread crumbs in 1 ounce butter light brown, pour 
them over the dumplings, and serve with fricassees, ragouts, or 
stews. 

Bread Dumplings. — Stir 2 ounces of butter to a cream ; add 
by degrees 2 eggs, little salt, nutmeg, ^j^ teaspoonf ul sugar, and 1 
cup of grated bread crumbs ; when well mixed, let it stand 1 hour. 
Shortly before serving form into balls, like a pigeon's egg^ and boil 
6 minutes in the soup. Another way is to soak 4 ounces bread 
without the rind for 10 minutes in cold water, press out, and place 
it in a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter or drippings, stir- 
ring constantly for 5 minutes ; then take it from the fire, put into a 
dish ; when cooled off, mix it with the yolks of 2 eggs, a little salt 
and nutmeg, lastly the beaten whites of 2 eggs ; shape into small 
oblong dumplings with a teaspoon, and boil 6 minutes in the soup 
or in salted water. 

Chicken Forcemeat Balls. — Soak 2 ounces stale baker's bread 
without the rind in cold water for 10 minutes, inclose it in a towel, 
and press out all the water ; melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 
the bread, stir and cook 5 minutes ; transfer it to a wooden bowl ; 
when cold, add the fine-chopped breast of a young chicken, pound 



SMALL DUMPLINGS FOR FRUIT AND WINE SOUPS. 85 

the two with a potato masher into a paste ; add the yolks of 2 eggs ; 
season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonf ul white pepper, Y4 tea- 
spoonful nutmeg, add last the 2 whites beaten to a stifE froth ; form 
the preparation into small round balls the size of a walnut (moisten 
the hands with cold water while rolling the forcemeat balls) ; drop 
them into boiling salted water, boil 6 minutes ; remove them care- 
fully with a skimmer, and use as directed in various recipes. 

Fine Chicken Forcemeat Dumplings. — Remove the breast 
from a young chicken ; chop it fine ; put it in a chopping bowl, 
and pound it fine with a potato masher. Place a saucepan with Yg 
cupful boiling water over the fire ; add 1 ounce butter and Yg cup- 
ful flour ; stir until it forms into a smooth paste and loosens itself 
from bottom of saucepan ; then remove ; add it to the chicken 
meat ; add 1 ounce butter, 1 teaspoonful dry farina, Y2 teaspoonful 
nutmeg, Y* teaspoonful white pepper and 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 whole 
egg and the yolks of 2 ; pound the whole into a fine smooth paste ; 
form with 2 teaspoons small dumplings from this mixture ; drop 
them into boiling water in a low saucepan ; let simmer 6 minutes ; 
then carefully remove them with a skimmer, and serve as directed 
in various recipes. One teaspoonful grated onion may be added, or 
1 teaspoonful chopped parsley if liked. 

Teal Forcemeat Balls a la Fran^aise. — Mince very fine 4 
ounces of veal and 2 ounces of suet ; season with Y2 even teaspoonful 
salt, Y4 even teaspoonful pepper, 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, 
Y4 teaspoonful nutmeg, 2 scrambled eggs, 1 raw egg, and Y2 cupful 
grated bread crumbs ; mix well together, and form with the hands 
into small balls ; finish the same as in foregoing recipe. Forcemeat 
balls of chicken, game, beef, and fresh pork may be prepared in the 
same way. 

Teal Forcemeat Balls. — Place a saucepan with Y2 cupful water 
and 1 ounce butter over the fire ; as soon as it boils, add Y2 cupful 
flour, stir until it forms into a smooth paste ; then remove ; when 
cold, add Y2 pound fine-chopped veal, 4 ounces fine-chopped veal 



86 SMALL DUMPLINGS FOR FRUIT AND WINE SOUPS. 

fat or suet; pound this together in a chopping bowl with a potato 
masher ; add the yolks of 2 eggs and 1 whole egg, 1 even teaspoon- 
f ul salt, 74 teaspoonf ul white pepper, and the same of nutmeg ; form 
this into small balls the size of a hickory nut, and drop them into 
salted boiling water, cook 6 minutes ; then remove, and use as di- 
rected in other recipes for soups or ragouts. 

Egg Balls. — Rub the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs fine, add Yg 
teaspoonful butter, a small pinch of salt, and nutmeg, and 1 raw 
yolk ; form this preparation with the help of little flour into small 
round balls the size of a small hickory nut ; drop them into boil- 
ing slightly salted water, and boil 6 minutes ; carefully remove and 
serve as directed in other recipes; they are mostly used for soup 
and ragouts. 

Fish Forcemeat Balls.— Chop fine V2 pound of fresh codfish 
or halibut ; soak 2 slices of stale bread in cold water about 10 min- 
utes, then inclose it in a towel, and press out all the water ; measure 
it (there should be Y2 pint). Melt 1 tablespoonful butter over the 
fire, add 1 tablespoonful fine-minced onion, cook 5 minutes without 
browning ; add the bread, stir and cook 5 minutes longer ; then re- 
move ; when cold mix with the fish meat the yolk of 1 egg and 1 
whole egg ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, a 
little nutmeg, and a pinch of powdered thyme ; mix well together ; 
form the preparation into small balls, rolled in flour ; place a sauce- 
pan with 3 pints water over the fire, add Ys tablespoonful salt, 2 
slices of onion, the same of carrot, a bay leaf, 3 cloves, 6 whole pep- 
pers, and 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar; as soon as it boils, put in the 
balls, and boil 8 minutes ; then remove carefully with a skimmer 
and use for garnishing fish. 

Turtle Forcemeat Balls. — Add to Y2 pound fine-minced tur- 
tle meat the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, previously rubbed into a 
paste with lYs tablespoonful butter; add 2 whole eggs, a little 
Cayenne pepper, and mace, 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered crackers, 
and, if necessary, some salt. Mix all the ingredients well together ; 



SMALL DUMPLINGS FOR FRUIT AND WINE SOUPS. 87 

shape into balls, dip in egg, then in powdered crackers, fry in 
butter, and drop into the turtle soup ; or use them for turtle ragout. 

Oyster Forcemeat Balls. — Mix well together, shape into 
balls, and boil 5 minutes in salted water 10 fine-chopped oysters, 1 
cupful bread crumbs, % tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley, a little 
Cayenne pepper and salt, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful oyster liquor, and 

1 ounce butter. 

Crab Forcemeat Balls. — Stir 2 ounces of butter to a cream, 
add by degrees the yolk of 1 egg, 1 whole egg, 4 ounces bread 
crumbs ; take the meat from 4 boiled crabs, cut it into little square 
pieces (there should be Yg pint). Mix all the ingredients well to- 
gether, season with salt and a little nutmeg ; shape into balls like a 
pigeon egg, and boil 6 minutes in bouillon. Another way is to stir 

2 ounces of crab butter to a cream, add by degrees the yolk of 1 
egg, 1 whole egg, 2 ounces of bread crumbs, salt, a little nutmeg, 
and 1 cupful fine-cut crab meat; shape into balls, and boil 6 
minutes. 

Rice Balls. — Place Y4 pound of rice in a saucepan with cold 
water over the fire, boil a few minutes ; drain in a colander, rinse 
off with cold water, return the rice to saucepan, cover with milk or 
water, add Vg tablespoonful butter and some salt ; boil the rice till 
tender and thick ; take it from the fire, mix with 2 eggs, and, when 
cold, shape into balls, rolled in bread crumbs or flour; boil 6 min- 
utes in bouillon or salt water ; drop them into the soup when served. 

Forcemeat Balls of Fresh Pork and Teal.— Four ounces 
finely chopped veal, 4 ounces fine-chopped fresh pork (the best way 
is to take 1 pork chop), 1 even teaspoonful salt, Yg even teaspoonful 
pepper, Y4 teaspoonful grated nutmeg, 1 cupful stale bread soaked 
in cold water, pressed out in a towel, and then measured, Y2 table- 
spoonful butter, 1 whole egg, and the yolk of 1 egg. Melt the but- 
ter in a saucepan, add the bread, and stir 5 minutes over the fire ; 
then remove ; when cold, mix the ingredients together, form into 



88 SMALL DUMPLINGS FOR FRUIT AND WINE SOUPS. 

small balls, rolled in flour, and boil either in boiling soup or in 
boiling salted water ; cook 8 minutes, and use as directed in yarious 
recipes. 

Decorated Forcemeat Dumplings. — Prepare a fine chicken 
forcemeat, form it with 2 spoons into small dumplings ; lay these 
into a wide shallow pan, and on each one a little piece of red boiled 
beef tongue and a thin slice of truffles, dipping first into beaten 
white of egg, and then pressing them a little into the dumplings. 
Ten minutes before serving, set the pan on the stove, and pour 
through a funnel enough boiling water into the pan to cover the 
dumplings ; let simmer 10 minutes ; then take them out carefully 
with a skimmer, and use for garnishing fine dishes. 

Sausage Forcemeat Balls. — Soak 2 ounces bread 10 min- 
utes in cold water, inclose it in a towel, and press out all the water. 
Melt Ya tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add the bread, stir, and 
cook 5 minutes ; then remove from fire ; when cold mix it with 2 
ounces sausage meat, % teaspoonful nutmeg, y^ teaspoonful salt 
and a pinch of pepper, 1 egg, and 1 teaspoonful grated onion ; form 
this into small balls like marbles (in rolling them, dip the fingers 
in cold water ; this makes them nice and smooth) ; lay them on a 
plate, dust over with flour, shake the plate to and fro so that the 
balls roll themselves in flour ; drop them into boiling salted water 
cook 6 minutes ; remove carefully with a skimmer and serve as 
directed in other recipes. In place of sausage meat, beef may be 
taken. 



SAUCES. 

General Directions. — In nothing does the skill and talent of 
the cook display itself more than in the preparation and appearance 
of sauces. A well-prepared sauce will make the commonest dish 
highly palatable, whereas a badly prepared one will spoil the finest 
dish, and often the whole meal. I am sorry to say that in so 
many households there is very little attention paid to this part of 
the cooking. To learn the special adaptability of sauces to the va- 
rious viands they are to accompany, in order that they may har- 
monize with them, is an art, and can not be studied too much. 
There is no necessity for sauces to be expensive, as many people 
would have the world believe ; it shows that to all who make such 
remarks the important part of cooking is unknown, and that they 
are either too indolent to learn or too proud to acknowledge their 
ignorance. The finishing of a fine sauce distinguishes itself through 
strength, fine fragrance, clearness of essence, luster, and consistence. 
All sauces should be finished shortly before serving, as they do not 
gain in taste and looks by standing and warming over, and for this 
reason no more should be made at one time than is wanted for one 
meal. While the sauce is over the fire it is necessary to stir con- 
stantly, and as soon as done it must be placed in a vessel of hot 
water (bain-marie) until serving. Those sauces to which cream or 
eggs are added should not be allowed to boil, as in that case they 
will instantly curdle. Brown sauce should not be as thick as a 
white sauce ; and all those which are intended to mask the various 
dishes of poultry or meat should be of sufficient consistence to 
slightly adhere to the fowls or joints over which they are poured. 



90 SAUCES. 

Bordelaise Sauce. — Place a small saucepan with 1 gill of red 
wine over the fire, add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped white onion or 
shallot, and a small bouquet ; reduce by boiling to one half. Melt 
in another saucepan 1 ounce butter ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, Yg 
bay leaf, and 13 whole peppers, stir, and cook 5 minutes ; add 1 
pint chicken or veal broth, Yg teaspoonful beef extract, and the con- 
tents of the small saucepan, cook 8 minutes ; season with 1 even 
teaspoonful salt and a pinch of Cayenne pepper, then strain ; add 2 
ounces of blanched marrow cut into round slices, and serve. 

Sauce Poivrade. — Place a saucepan with 1 fine-chopped 
onion and 1 ounce butter over the fire ; cook 5 minutes ; add 1 
ounce fine-cut ham, 1 bay leaf, 12 coarsely pounded peppers, 1 sprig 
of thyme and parsley, 1 gill of herb vinegar, 1 gill of white broth ; 
cover, and cook slowly till reduced to one half ; then strain the 
essence through a cloth. Melt in another saucepan 1 ounce butter, 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir, and cook 3 minutes ; add IY2 cupful 
consomme, or boiling water, with Y2 teaspoonful beef extract, 1 even 
teaspoonful salt ; cook 5 minutes ; add the essence, continue to cook 
5 minutes longer, and serve. If this sauce is wanted for fish, add 
IY2 ounce butter in small pieces just before serving. 

Horseradish Sauce. — Melt in a small saucepan 1 ounce but- 
ter ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir this for a few minutes ; 
then add Ys pint veal or chicken broth ; tie together 1 sprig of pars- 
ley, Yz blade of mace, 1 clove, Y* sprig of thyme, Y4 bay leaf, and 6 
whole peppers ; add it to the sauce with Y2 cupful mushroom liquor; 
boil slowly 5 minutes ; then strain it into a clean saucepan ; add Y2 
ounce butter in small portions, a little nutmeg, Y2 cupful cream, and 
3 tablespoonfuls grated horseradish ; cook 2 minutes, and serve. 

Fine Sauce Hollandaise. — Put the yolks of 3 eggs in a small 
saucepan ; mix them with Y4 teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful nut- 
meg ; set the saucepan in a vessel of hot water ; add by degrees 4 
ounces butter in small pieces ; stir constantly ; then place the sauce- 
pan for a few minutes over the fire, and stir till the sauce is smooth 



SAUCES. 91 

and thick (care must be taken not to let it boil) ; remove the sauce- 
pan, add 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, and serve. In place of lemon 
juice, a little herb vinegar may be taken. 

Sauce Hollandaise. — Place a small saucepan with 3 ounces 
butter over the fire ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion ; cook 
5 minutes without browning ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, 
cook and stir 3 minutes; then add 2 cupfuls chicken or veal broth, 
also a small bouquet, and cook ten minutes ; strain the sauce into 
another saucepan ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 2 tablespoonfuls 
lemon juice ; add it to the sauce ; season with Yg teaspoonful salt 
and Y4 teaspoonful nutmeg, let it get hot, but do not allow to boil ; 
add Y2 tablespoonful butter in small portions ; mix well and serve. 

Helgalander Sauce. — Peel 4 medium-sized white onions, cut 
them into quarters ; place them with 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut ham 
in a saucepan ; add 1 bay leaf, 1 blade of mace, 2 cloves, 6 coarsely 
pounded peppers ; cover with water, and boil till the onions are 
tender and boiled nearly dry ; then press them through a sieve. In 
the meantime melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add 1 
tablespoonful flour ; stir 3 minutes ; add 1 pint white broth, Ys 
pint milk ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful 
Cayenne pepper ; add a small bouquet, and, if handy, Ys giU mush- 
room liquor ; cook 10 minutes ; then strain ; add the onion puree, 
return the sauce to the fire ; let it cook a few minutes ; add 2 table- 
spoonfuls cream, a little nutmeg, and a small piece of butter ; stir 
until well mixed ; then serve with boiled mutton, boiled ham, or 
corned beef. 

Sauce Piquante. — Place a small saucepan with 1 ounce fine- 
chopped boiled ham and 1 fine-chopped onion over the fire ; add 
Ya cupful white vinegar, 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 sprig of 
parsley, 6 coarsely pounded peppers, cover and boil till reduced to 
one half. Place in another saucepan 1 tablespoonful butter, add 1 
tablespoonful flour ; stir and cook a few minutes ; add 1 pint con- 
somme or broth, add a bouquet, season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, 
7 



92 SAUCES. 

Ya teaspoonful pepper, cook 10 minutes ; add the contents of the 
first saucepan, boil 3 minutes ; then strain the sauce into a clean 
saucepan ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped mushrooms, the same of 
fine-chopped pickles, 1 tablespoonful capers, cook 10 minutes ; then 
serve. This sauce is mostly served with boiled or warmed-over meats. 

Sauce Matelote. — Put in a saucepan 1 tablespoonful fine-cut 
onions, the same of fine-cut raw ham and mushrooms ; add a small 
bouquet, 6 coarsely pounded black peppers ; cover with Yg pi^t 
Bordeaux wine, Y2 cup of essence of fish ; place the saucepan over 
the fire, and boil till reduced to one third ; then strain. Melt in a 
saucepan 1 tablespoonful butter, add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook and 
stir 3 minutes ; add 1 pint of consomme or boiling water with 1 
teaspoonful beef extract ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, add a 
small bouquet, cook 10 minutes; then add the above essence of 
wine, boil 2 minutes ; strain through a fine sieve ; add 1 tablespoon- 
ful anchovy butter, and serve with boiled or baked fish. 

Onion Sauce. — Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter or fat 
over the fire ; add 1 tablespoonful sugar and Ys cupful fine-chopped 
onion, cook until light brown ; then add Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir 
and cook 3 minutes ; add 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar, Ys P'^^ of 
stock, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, and 1 tea- 
spoonful sugar; cook 5 minutes, and serve. This sauce can be 
served as it is or strained. 

Sauce a la Toulouse. — Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter 
and 1 fine-chopped onion over the fire ; add 1 bay leaf, 12 coarsely 
pounded peppers; cook 5 minutes without browning; add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add Y2 piiit veal or chicken 
broth, 1 gill of white wine, 1 gill of mushroom liquor, 1 even tea- 
spoonful salt ; cook 8 minutes ; then strain into a clean saucepan ; 
add Y2 gill fine-cut truffles and the same of mushrooms ; cook 5 
minutes ; mix Y2 cupful cream with the yolks of 2 eggs ; add it to 
the sauce ; let it remain for a few minutes over the fire without 
boiling, and serve. 



SAUCES. 93 

Brown-Onion Sauce. — Peel and cut 4 medium-sized onions 
into slices ; place them with 2 ounces of butter or fat over the fire ; 
fry and stir till the onions have obtained a light-brown color ; then 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, continue stirring for a few minutes 
longer ; add 1 pint of stock or 1 pint boiling water with 1 teaspoon- 
f ul beef extract ; cover and boil slowly 30 minutes ; then press the 
sauce through a sieve ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt and Yg 
even teaspoonful pepper, and serve. 

White Onion Sauce. — Peel 4 medium-sized white onions ; 
place them in a saucepan ; cover with boiling water and Yg tea- 
spoonful salt, boil till tender, which will take about 30 minutes ; 
when done drain off all the water ; chop the onions fine, and mix 
them with the following sauce : Melt in a saucepan 2 ounces of 
butter, add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; 
then add 1 pint of boiling white broth, cook 3 minutes ; add the 
chopped onions and let the whole boil a few minutes longer ; season 
with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ys even teaspoonful white pepper, and 
serve. 

Sirup Sauce. — Cut 2 ounces of larding pork into small dice- 
shaped pieces ; place them in a saucepan over the fire, and fry light 
brown ; then add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir for a few min- 
utes ; add IY2 cup boiling water, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add Y2 
cupful sirup and 4 tablespoonfuls vinegar ; or add sirup and vinegar 
to taste. This sauce is served hot in north Germany with plain 
boiled dumplings, and when cold it is served with lettuce and 
pancakes. 

Spanish Sauce. — Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over 
the fire ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut raw ham, the same of onion, 
carrot, and celery, cook 5 minutes ; then add 1 heaping tablespoon- 
ful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 pint of soup stock or broth, 
1 even teaspoonful salt, 6 whole pepjjers, and a bouquet ; boil slowly 
10 minutes ; then strain, and serve. If stock or broth is not at 
hand add to 1 pint boiling water 1 teaspoonful beef extract. 



94 SAUCES. 

Champagne Sauce. — Place a small saucepan with 2 fine- 
chopped shallots and 1 ounce butter over the fire, cook 3 minutes ; 
add Y2 pint champagne, 2 cloves, 6 coarsely pounded peppers, % 
blade of mace, Y2 bay leaf, cover and cook till reduced to one half. 
Prepare a Spanish sauce the same as in foregoing recipe ; strain the 
essence through a napkin, add it to the sauce, cook for a few min- 
utes, and serve. 

Olive Sauce. — Put % cupful fine-cut prepared olives into the 
Spanish sauce ; cook 5 minutes, and serve. Another way is to rcr 
move the pits from 12 salted olives, let them lay for 20 minutes in 
warm water ; press the olives back into their natural form ; put 
them into the Spanish sauce ; cook 10 minutes ; add the juice of 
% lemon, and serve. 

Raisin Sauce. — Put 1 cupful raisins in a saucepan ; cover with 
Va cupful water, Y2 cupful white wine, and boil 20 minutes. At 
the same time place a saucepan with 1 tablespoouful butter over 
the fire ; add 1 fine-cut onion, a little fine-cut ham, and carrot, 
cook 5 minutes, then add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour ; stir for a 
few minutes ; add 1 pint boiling water, 1 tablespoonful liquid beef 
extract, 3 cloves, 1 bay leaf, 6 crushed peppers, 1 blade of mace, 1 
even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonf ul pepper ; cook 10 minutes ; 
then strain it into a clean saucepan ; add the raisins, return the 
saucepan to the fire ; add 1 tablespoonful lemon juice and 1 table- 
spoonful sugar ; cook for a few minutes ; then serve with boiled 
beef -tongue or boiled ham. 

Polish Sauce. — Prepare 1 pint of Spanish sauce ; add 4 ounces 
finely pounded almonds, 4 ounces raisins, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 
teaspoonful sugar, Y2 cupful white wine ; boil slowly 20 minutes ; 
then strain ; if necessary, add little salt. Serve with boiled beef- 
tongue. 

Tomato Sauce a I'Allemande.— Open a can of tomatoes, and 
turn the contents into a saucepan ; add 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ya 
tablespoonful butter, 2 teaspoonfuls sugar, and let it cook 30 



SAUCES. 95 

minutes. Mix 1 teaspoonful cornstarch with a little cold water, 
add it to the tomatoes, cook 2 minutes; then strain through a 
sieve. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs in a saucepan, with 2 tablespoonfuls 
cold water, add gradually the tomatoes, while stirring constantly ; 
retur;H the tomatoes for a few minutes to the fire ; heat it to a boil- 
ing point, but do not allow it to boil ; add Yg gill of cream. Serve 
at once. 

Tomato Sauce a la Fran^aise.— Place a small saucepan 
with 1 tablespoonful butter or poultry fat over the fire ; add 2 table- 
spoonfuls fine-cut carrots, 1 fine-cut onion, Y3 bay leaf, 2 cloves, 1 
blade of mace, 6 whole peppers, 1 sprig of thyme ; stir and cook 10 
minutes; add 1 tablespoonful flour, and cook 2 minutes; add 1 can 
tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, 1 teaspoon- 
ful, sugar ; cook slowly 10 minutes, stirring constantly, then strain, 
and serve. 

Sauce de Grourmets. — Melt % tablespoonful butter, add 1 
tablespoonful fine-chopped onions, the same of carrots and raw ham ; 
cook 5 minutes ; add Yg tablespoonful flour, cook 3 minutes ; add 2 
fine-cut tomatoes, Y2 pi^t of boiling water, Ys teaspoonful salt, Y4 
teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful liquid beef extract; cook 10 
minutes ; strain and add 1 tablespoonful crawfish butter. In the 
meanwhile peel and boil 4 shallots in salted water, drain and chop 
them fine ; dip 1 sprig of parsley and 4 leaves of tarragon into 
boiling water ; remove, chop fine, and add this to the sauce ; season 
with a little Cayenne pepper, and salt to taste. If the sauce should 
be too thick, add more bouillon or boiling water, with a little beef 
extract. Serve this sauce with boiled or baked fish only. 

English Bread Sauce. — Place a saucepan with 1 cupful milk 
over the fire; add a small white onion, 2 tablespoonfuls grated 
bread crumbs, 6 whole peppercorns, and a little salt ; cook 10 min- 
utes ; take out the onion ; add 1 tablespoonful butter in small 
pieces, cook for a few minutes longer ; then strain through a sieve, 
add a few spoonfuls cream, and serve with boiled poultry. 



96 SAUCES. 

Oyster Sauce. — Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan ; 
add 1 tablespoonful flour ; cook and stir 3 minutes without brown- 
ing ; then add 1 pint of white broth, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 6 
coarsely pounded peppers, a small bouquet, and Yg giU mushroom 
liquor ; boil 5 minutes ; then strain into a clean saucepan ; mix the 
yolks of 2 eggs with Yg cup cream ; add it to the sauce. In the 
meantime put 1 dozen medium-sized oysters, without their liquor, 
in a saucepan ; add Yg tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful lemon 
juice, Y4 teaspoonful white pepper, and the same of salt ; cook until 
the oysters begin to ruffle ; then add them to the sauce and serve. 

Mushroom Sauce, No. 1. — Melt 2 ounces butter in a sauce- 
pan ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook and stir 3 minutes ; add 1 pint 
boiling consomme or broth (and, if neither should be at hand, add 
to 1 pint of boiling water 1 teaspoonful beef extract) ; stir until 
smooth ; then add Y2 can of mushrooms ; season with salt and 
pepper, and cook 15 minutes ; add last 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 
and serve with broiled beefsteak. 

Mushroom Sauce, No. 2. — Chop fine Y2 pint of well-cleaned 
fresh mushrooms ; put them in a small saucepan with 2 ounces of 
butter ; let them simmer 10 minutes ; dust over 1 tablespoonful 
flour ; add 1 pint boiling water, with Ys teaspoonful beef extract ; 
season with salt and pepper ; boil 5 minutes, add Y2 tablespoonful 
lemon juice, and serve. 

German Cherry Sauce. — Wash Ys pound dried sour cherries ; 
place them in a saucepan ; cover with 1 quart of cold water ; add a 
small piece of cinnamon, the thin peel of Y2 lemon, a thin slice of 
stale bread, and boil slowly 1 hour ; then press it through a sieve 
into a clean saucepan ; add Y2 pint of red wine, 3 Y2 tablespoonfuls 
sugar ; return the saucepan to the fire and reduce by boiling to IY2 
pint ; add Y2 cupful preserved cherries, and serve with game. 

English Gooseberry Sauce.— Clean and wash Y2 pint of 
gooseberries, place them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, 
cook 3 minutes ; drain ofl: the water and press the gooseberries 



SAUCES. 97 

through a sieve ; add them to Yg pint of butter sauce ; serve with 
boiled fish. 

Cumberland Sauce. — Pare off very thin the peel from a green 
orange, cut it into fine strips like straws (julienne) ; place them in 
a small saucepan ; cover with boiling water and cook 15 minutes, 
changing the water 3 times during that time ; then drain in a sieve, 
add slowly to Yg cup of currant jelly Ys pint Bordeaux wine, the 
juice of the peeled orange, and the fine-cut and boiled peel ; also 1 
teaspoonful English mixed mustard and Y* teaspoonful Cayenne 
pepper ; serve with game. 

Sauce a la Politaine. — Pour '^j^ pint Port or Madeira wine in 
a saucepan ; add 1 fine-chopped white onion, 1 ounce fine-cut lean 
ham, 6 coarsely crushed black peppers, 1 bay leaf, 1 blade of mace, a 
small sprig of thyme, 2 sprigs of parsley ; cover and boil till reduced 
to one half ; then strain through a napkin, and add 1 teaspoonful 
sugar. Place in a small saucepan 1 tablespoonful butter, add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook a few minutes ; then add IY2 cup boiling 
water, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, Y2 teaspoonful salt, Y2 cupful 
canned tomatoes, and a small bouquet ; cook 10 minutes ; then 
strain ; add the above wine essence ; season with 1 tablespoonful 
anchovy butter, a little Cayenne pepper, and serve. 

Sauce a la Financiere. — Melt 1 ounce butter in a small sauce- 
pan ; add 1 fine-chopped onion, 1 ounce fine-cut ham, 3 chopped 
mushrooms, 2 cloves, 6 coarsely pounded peppers, 1 blade of mace ; 
cook 5 minutes ; then add Y2 pi^t Rhine wine ; cover and cook till 
reduced to one third. Melt in another saucepan 1 tablespoonful but- 
ter ; add 1 tablespoonful flour ; stir and cook 2 minutes ; add IY2 cup 
of boiling water, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, Y2 teaspoonful salt, and 
a small bouquet ; cook 10 minutes ; add the above wine preparation, 
cook 3 minutes ; then strain ; boil 2 tablespoonfuls fine-sliced trufiles 
for 10 minutes in a little wine, then add it to the sauce and serve. 

Madeira Sauce. — Place a small saucepan with 1 tablespoonful 
butter over the fire; add 1 tablespoonful fine- cut onion, the same of 



98 SAUCES. 

raw ham and carrots, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 bay leaf, 6 whole peppers, 
2 cloves, 3 parsley roots, and a little celery ; cook 6 minutes ; then 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook a few minutes; add iVg cup of 
boiling water, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, and cook 15 minutes ; 
then strain ; return the sauce to the saucepan again, add Yg cupful 
mushroom liquor, a small bouquet, Yg even teaspoonful pepper, 1 
even teaspoonful salt, and Y2 cupful Madeira or sherry wine. Cook 
slowly 10 minutes, removing all fat which may arise to the surface. 

Colbert Sauce. — Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over 
the fire ; add 1 fine-chopped onion, 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut raw 
ham, 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut carrots, 1 bay leaf, 2 cloves, 6 coarsely 
pounded black peppers, 1 blade of mace, and a sprig of thyme ; 
cover, and cook 6 minutes without browning ; then add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir 2 minutes ; add IY2 cup of white broth, cook 10 
minutes; then strain into another saucepan, add Y2 cup of mush- 
room liquor, Y2 cup of sherry wine, Yi teaspoonful Cayenne pepper, 
and a bouquet ; cook 10 minutes ; then add 1 tablespoonful of liquid 
beef extract, 1 ounce butter; remove the bouquet; add the juice of 
Y2 a lemon and 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley; do not let it boil 
again after the last 2 ingredients have been added. 

Sauce Bearnaise. — Place 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped shallots 
in a small saucepan ; add 3 tablespoonfuls tarragon vinegar and 8 
whole crushed peppers; reduce by boiling till nearly dry; remove 
from fire, and when nearly cold add the yolks of 4 eggs ; set the 
saucepan in hot water, stir constantly ; add 4 ounces of butter in 
small pieces ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt and Ys teaspoonful 
grated nutmeg ; stir till the butter is melted ; add 1 teaspoonful beef 
extract mixed with 3 tablespoonfuls boiling water ; stir over the fire 
until the sauce is thick ; then remove, and strain through a fine 
sieve. Serve with broiled steak or fish. The sauce is put on a warm 
dish, and the meat or fish is laid on top of it. 

Yeloute Sauce. — Place a saucepan with 2 ounces of butter 
over the fire ; add as soon as the butter is melted 2 tablespoonfuls 



SAUCES. 99 

flour ; stir a few minutes over the fire, but do not let it get brown ; 
add 3 cups chicken or veal broth, a small bouquet, Yg cupful mush- 
room liquor and a few mushrooms, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 6 whole 
peppers, a little nutmeg ; boil and stir 10 minutes ; remove the bou- 
quet and all the fat ; draw the saucepan to side of stove and let 
it simmer 10 minutes ; then strain, and serve. 

Bechamel Sauce a PAUemande. — Melt 2 ounces butter in a 
saucepan ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour ; stir until the flour 
has absorbed all the butter ; then add 1 cupful white broth, Yg 
cupful mushroom liquor, a small bouquet, 1 cupful cream ; cook 5 
minutes; strain into a clean saucepan, and add Y2 tablespoonful 
butter in small pieces ; stir a few minutes over the fire, and 
serve. 

Bechamel Sauce. — Place a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful but- 
ter over the fire ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, and stir for 5 minutes ; 
then add 2 cups boiling milk ; season with Ys teaspoonful nutmeg, 1 
even teaspoonful salt, a small bouquet, 6 whole peppers, Ys cupful 
mushroom liquor ; boil 10 minutes, strain, and serve. 

Supreme Sauce. — Cut a well-cleaned chicken into 8 pieces ; 
put the breast, thighs, and legs aside for other purposes ; scald the 
feet in boiling water, remove the skin, and place them with the 2 
wings, the giblets, and back of chicken in a saucepan ; cover with 
boiling water, and cook 2 minutes ; drain in colander, rinse off with 
cold water ; return the chicken to saucepan again ; cover with cold 
water ; add 1 teaspoonful salt, a small bouquet ; cover, and boil lYs 
hour. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan ; add 1 heaping table- 
spoonful flour; stir a few minutes; strain the chicken broth; add 
1 pint of the broth to the butter and flour, stir well, cook 5 min- 
utes ; then add Ys cupful cream, cook 2 minutes, and serve. 

Cream Sauce. — Place a small saucepan with 2 ounces butter 
and 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut raw ham over the fire ; add 2 table- 
spoonfuls fine-cut white onions, Y2 cupful fine-cut canned mush- 



100 SAUCES. 

rooms, and a small bouquet ; cook 5 minutes ; then add 1 heaping 
tablespoonful flour ; stir 2 minutes without browning ; add Yg pint 
chicken broth, Yg pint cream, cook 10 minutes ; strain into a clean 
saucepan ; return the saucepan to the fire ; add Ys tablespoonful 
butter in small portions ; season with a little salt and nutmeg ; stir 
until it begins to boil ; then remove, and serve. 

Sauce a I'AUemande. — Put 2 ounces of butter in a saucepan; 
add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir a few minutes ; add 1 pint 
of white stock, Ys cupful mushroom liquor, or a few fiue-choiDped 
mushrooms, a small bouquet, and boil 10 minutes ; strain into a 
clean saucepan ; return the saucepan to the fire ; mix Ys cup cream 
with the yolks of 2 eggs ; add it to the sauce ; stir a few minutes, 
not letting it boil again ; season with a little salt and nutmeg ; add 
last 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, and serve. 

Sauce a I'ltalienne — White. — Place a saucepan with 1 table- 
spoonful butter over the fire ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 3 min- 
utes ; then add Ya cupful white stock, Ys cupful Rhine wine, a small 
bouquet, and cook 10 minutes. In the meantime put in a small 
saucepan 1 ounce butter ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped shallots 
or white onion, cook 5 minutes; then add 1 teaspoonful fine- 
chopped parsley, Ys teaspoonful fine-chopped tarragon ; season with 
1 even teaspoonful salt, cook 2 minutes. Strain the sauce in a clean 
saucepan, add the herbs, draining off the butter ; return the sauce 
to the fire ; add Ys tablespoonful butter in small pieces, and finish 
with Ys tablespoonful lemon juice, and serve. 

Sauce a I'ltalienne — Brown. — Place a small saucej^an with 
Ys tablespoonful butter over the fire ; as soon as melted add 2 table- 
spoonfuls fine-chopped shallots ; stir and cook till light brown ; then 
add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut boiled ham, the same of fine-cut mush- 
rooms and truffles, cover with Ys cupful sherry wine, and cook 6 
minutes. Put into another saucepan 1 ounce butter ; add 1 fine-cut 
small onion, 1 tablespoonful fine-cut carrots, and the same of celery ; 
cook 5 minutes; then add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir a few min- 



SAUCES. 101 

utes ; add 1 pint of boiling water with 1 teaspoonful beef extract, 
also a small bouquet, and boil 15 minutes; then strain; add it to 
the first saucepan ; season to taste with salt ; boil a few minutes, 
and serve. 

Tilleroi Sauce. — Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan ; add 2 
tablespoonfuls flour, stir, and cook 3 minutes; then add 3 cup- 
fuls chicken or veal broth, a little mushroom essence, or mushroom 
liquor, cook 5 minutes, mix Yg cup cream with the yolks of 3 eggs, 
add it to the sauce, stir until just about to boil ; then remove, and 
strain through a sieve. 

Butter Sauce. — Mix 1 heaping tablespoouful flour with Yg 
cupful cold water in a saucepan ; add slowly lYg cup boiling water, 
stirring constantly ; place the saucepan over the fire, stir until it 
begins to boil ; then add, in small pieces, 4 ounces of butter ; season 
with 1 even teaspoonful salt, boil slowly 5 minutes, and serve. 

Egg Sauce. — Chop fine 1 medium-sized onion ; put it with 1 
bay leaf, 1 tablespoouful butter, 6 coarsely-pounded peppers, in a 
saucepan over the fire ; cook 5 minutes ; add 1 heaping tablespoouful 
flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 pint white broth, or stock ; 
season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful nutmeg; cook 
10 minutes ; then strain into a clean saucepan ; return it to the fire ; 
add Ys tablespoouful butter in small pieces, mix the yolks of 2 eggs 
with 1 tablespoouful lemon juice; pour them gradually into the 
sauce, being careful not to let it boil again; add 1 fine-chopped 
hard-boiled egg and 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, and serve. 

Parsley Sauce. — Melt in a saucepan 2 ounces of butter ; add 
1 tablespoouful flour ; stir this over the fire a few minutes ; then 
add Ys pint boiling milk; season with Ys teaspoonful salt; boil 3 
minutes; remove from the fire; add 1 tablespoouful fine-chopped 
parsley, and serve. 

Celery Sauce. — Prepare 1 pint of butter sauce ; add the yolk 
of 1 egg and Ys cup cream ; place 1 pint of fine-cut white table celery 



102 SAUCES. 

in a saucepan; add little butter; cover with boiling water ; season 
with 1 teaspoonf ul salt, and boil till tender ; then drain, add the 
celery to the butter sauce, and serve with boiled poultry or meat. 

Caper Sauce. — Melt 1 tablespoonf ul butter in a saucepan ; add 

1 fine-cut white onion, 8 whole peppers, Yg bay leaf, cook 3 minutes, 
without browning, then add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour ; stir and 
cook 2 minutes ; add 1 pint of veal or chicken broth, season with 
Ya teaspoonf ul salt, Yi teaspoonf ul grated nutmeg ; boil 15 minutes ; 
then strain through a sieve into a clean saucepan ; mix the yolks of 

2 eggs with 1 tablespoonful lemon Juice; add a little sauce first to 
the yolks, mix well ; then add the yolks to the sauce. Place the 
saucepan on the side of stove ; add Ys tablespoonful butter in small 
portions, stir 5 minutes over the fire, without letting it boil again ; 
add 2 tablespoonfuls capers, and serve with boiled mutton or fish. 

Anchovy Sauce. — Mix 1 tablespoonful fiour with Ys cup cold 
water in a saucepan ; add the yolks of 2 eggs ; when this is well 
mixed, add gradually IY2 cup of boiling water ; place the saucepan 
over the fire ; add 2 ounces of butter in small pieces ; stir constantly 
until it begins to boil ; then remove to side of stove, add 1 table- 
spoonful anchovy essence, 4 finely pounded boneless anchovies; 
season with 1 even teaspoonful salt and the juice of Ys lemon ; mix 
well, and serve. 

Shrimp Sauce. — Mix in a small saucepan 1 heaping table- 
spoonful flour with Ys cup cold water ; add 1 even teaspoonful salt, 
the yolks of 2 eggs, and Y4 teaspoonful nutmeg ; when this is well 
mixed add slowly IY2 cup boiling water, while stirring constantly; 
place the saucepan over the fire, and add gradually 2 ounces butter ; 
continue stirring until just about to boil ; add ^4 cupful fine-cut 
shrimps, and 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. 

Crab and Lobster Sauce.— May be prepared in the same way 
as shrimp sauce. Serve with baked or boiled fish. 

Lobster Sauce. — Place a small saucepan with 1 tablespoonful 
fine-chopped onion and 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire; add 6 



SAUCES. 103 

coarsely pounded black peppers, Yg bay leaf ; cook 5 minutes; add 
1 tablespoonful flour, stir a few minutes ; then add 1 pint boiling 
white broth ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Yg even teaspoon- 
f ul nutmeg ; cook slowly 15 minutes ; add Ys tablespoonful lobster 
butter ; mix the yolks of 3 eggs with 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 
add it slowly to the sauce, not letting it boil again ; strain through 
a sieve ; add % cup of fine-cut cooked lobster meat from the claws. 
Serve with boiled or baked fish. 

Mustard Sauce (Economical). — Melt 1 tablespoonful fine- 
chopped suet ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir a few minutes ; then 
add 1 cup boiling water, and cook 2 minutes ; season with Ys tea- 
spoonful salt ; remove from flre ; add Y2 tablespoonful butter and 
3 heaping teaspoonfuls French mustard, and serve. 

Mustard Sauce a I'Allemande. — Mix in a saucepan 1 table- 
spoonful flour with Ys cup cold water ; add the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 
ounces butter ; then add slowly 1 cup boiling water, stir this over 
the flre till nearly boiling ; add 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoon- 
ful nutmeg, the juice of Yg lemon, and Ys tablespoonful butter in 
small pieces, Ys tablespoonful English mixed mustard or 2 table- 
spoonfuls French mustard, and serve. 

Sauce a la Stanley. — Place a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful 
butter over the flre, add 1 tablespoonful flour and stir for 5 min- 
utes, add 2 cups boiling milk ; season with Y3 teaspoonful nutmeg, 
1 even teaspoonful salt, a small bouquet, 6 whole peppers, Y3 cupful 
mushroom liquor, boil 10 minutes; then strain, add 1 even tea- 
spoonful powdered sugar, Ys of a teaspoonful Cayenne pepper, 3 
heaping tablespoonful s fresh grated horseradish, 2 tablespoonfuls 
cream, cook 3 minutes, and serve. 

Paprika Sauce. — Place 2 tablespoonfuls of flne-cut onions, the 
same of raw lean ham, carrots, and leek, with IY2 ounce butter in 
a saucepan, and cook 5 minutes; add to it 1 heaping tablespoonful 
flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add also 1 pint bouillon or 1 pint 



104 SAUCES. 

boiling water, with 1 teaspoonful beef extract, Y2 even teaspoonful 
salt, Ya bay leaf, 3 whole cloves, and cook 10 minutes ; strain into a 
clean saucepan, add Y4 teaspoonful paprika and 3 tablespoonfuls 
cream, boil 4 minutes ; strain again, and serve with boiled fish. 

Truffle Sauce. — Melt in a small saucepan 1 ounce butter, add 1 
tablespoonf ul fine-chopped onion, the same of carrots, Ys bay leaf, 
small Ys sprig of thyme, 3 coarsely pounded black peppers, cook 6 
minutes ; then add Ys tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; 
add 1 cupful boiling water, Ys teaspoonful beef extract, Ys even tea- 
spoonful salt, cook 10 minutes ; then strain, place Ys c"P sherry or 
Madeira wine in a small saucepan over the fire, add 3 tablespoon- 
fuls fine-chopped truffles, reduce by boiling to one half ; add it to 
the sauce, let it boil up, and serve. 

Sauce au Salmis. — Put 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut carrot, the 
same of raw ham and onion, in a saucepan ; add 2 ounces butter ; 
place the saucepan over the fire, cook until light brown ; add 1 
tablespoonful flour, stir a few minutes ; then add 2 pints of broth, 
Y2 pint Madeira wine, some fine-chopped carcasses of birds, prairie 
chickens, or rabbits, and a bouquet ; cover, and cook 45 minutes ; 
strain the sauce into a clean saucepan ; if a few livers of prairie 
chicken or of any kind of birds are on hand, cook them in a little 
broth, then mash them fine, and add to the sauce ; finish with the 
juice of Ys lemon, and serve. 

Sauce Poivrade. — Set a small saucepan with 1 ounce butter 
over the fire ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped shallots or onions, 
the same of boiled ham, cook 5 minutes ; then add Ys cupful stock 
or broth, 3 tablespoonfuls herb vinegar, 6 crushed black peppers, 
and a small bouquet ; cover, and reduce by boiling to one half. In 
the meantime melt Ys tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add Y2 
tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; then add Ys pint boil- 
ing water, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, Ys ©ven teaspoonful salt, cook 
5 minutes ; add the onion, cook a few minutes ; then strain and 
serve. 



SAUCES. 105 

Sauce Robert. — Cut a medium-sized white onion into small 
pieces ; place it in a saucepan with Yg tablespoonful butter ; cook 
until they obtain a delicate brown color ; then add Yg cup bouillon 
or stock, and cook 10 minutes. Place in another small saucepan 
Ys tablespoonful butter, add Y2 tablespoonful flour ; stir a few 
minutes ; add Ys pint boiling water, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, Ya 
even teaspoonful salt, 4 tablespoonfuls white wine, 1 teaspoonful 
mushroom essence ; cook slowly 6 minutes ; then strain ; add the 
onions and 1 teaspoonful English mustard (mixed), or 1 table- 
spoonful French mustard. This sauce may be served as it is, or 
strained. 

Sauce a la Tenaison. — Put in a saucepan 2 cloves, 4 coarsely 
pounded black peppers, 1 tablespoonful fine-cut onions, Ys bay leaf, 
Y3 cup white vinegar ; place the saucepan over the fire ; reduce by 
boiling to one third ; then strain ; set this essence aside until the 
following sauce is prepared : Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter 
over the fire ; add 1 chopped onion, a little carrot, and fine-chopped 
ham ; cook 5 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful fiour, stir, and cook 3 
minutes ; add 1 pint of soup stock, a bouquet, Y2 teaspoonful salt, Y4 
teaspoonful pepper ; cook 10 minutes ; add the prepared essence, 
cook 3 minutes, then strain; add Ys cupful currant jelly and 1 
tablespoonful lemon juice. This sauce is served with game; if 
stock is not handy, take water and beef extract ; or prepare a 
little stock of the remnants of the game. 

Chestnut Sauce. — Set a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over 
the fire ; add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped onion, the same of fine- 
chopped carrots and celery ; cook 5 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful 
flour, stir, and cook 3 minutes ; add lYs cupful boiling water, 1 tea- 
spoonful beef extract, a small bouquet ; season with 1 teaspoonful 
salt ; boil 10 minutes, then strain ; at the same time place in a 
small saucepan 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped shallots ; add Ys cup 
claret ; cook 10 minutes ; then strain ; add it to the sauce ; season 
with Y4 teaspoonful red pepper ; boil 6 large chestnuts 20 minutes ; 



106 SAUCES. 

remove the shell and cut the uuts into fine slices ; add them to the 
sauce ; boil 5 minutes and serve. 

Sauce a la Diable. — Place a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls 
fine-chopped white onion and 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire ; 
add 1 ounce fine-cut boiled ham ; cook 5 minutes ; add Y2 cupful 
white vinegar, 6 coarsely jDounded black peppers, a small bouquet ; 
cover and cook till reduced to one half. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter ; 
add 1 fine-chopped onion, the same of carrot and celery, cook 5 
minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir, and cook 3 minutes ; then 
add 1 pint boiling water, 1 tablespoonful liquid beef extract, 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, Yg cupful stewed or canned tomatoes, Y4 teaspoon- 
ful pepper, and a small bouquet ; cook slowly 10 minutes ; then 
strain. Strain also the above essence ; mix it with 1 teaspoonful 
sugar; add to the sauce; return it to the fire; cook 3 minutes; 
season with a little Cayenne pepper, add a small piece of butter, and 
serve. 



COLD SAUCES. 

Remoladen Sauce. — Take a sprig of parsley, a little chervil, 
tarragon, and 1 shallot ; place them into boiling water, to remain 
therein a minute ; then remove them, inclose in a napkin, and press 
out all the water ; add 1 tablespoonful capers, and chop the whole 
as fine as possible. Put the yolk of 3 hard-boiled eggs into a bowl, 
rub them fine, and mix with 1 raw yolk ; then add slowly Yg cupful 
olive oil ; next add 1 teaspoonful English mustard, 1 even teaspoon- 
ful salt, Ys even teaspoonful white pepper, 4 tablespoonfuls herb 
vinegar ; if not handy, add white vinegar ; wash 6 anchovies several 
times in cold water, free them from skin and bones, and pound 
fine ; add them with the other ingredients to the sauce ; mix well 
and serve. Or mix this sauce with 2 pounds fine-chopped boiled 
ham and use for sandwiches. 

Sauce Tartare. — Stir the yolk of 2 eggs to a cream; add 
gradually while stirring constantly, drop by drop, Y* cupful oil ; 
then 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, Ys teaspoonful English 
mustard, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y* teaspoonful white pepper, 1 
tablespoonful finely chopped shallots, 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped 
capers ; mix well and serve. 

German Tartare Sauce. — Put the yolks of 2 eggs into a 
bowl ; add 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful English mustard, 
a little red pepper ; stir this 2 minutes ; then add drop by drop 6 
tablespoonfuls olive oil and 1 tablespoonful white vinegar ; next 
add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped shallots, 1 tablespoonful fine- 
chopped capers, 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, and, if handy, 
Ys teaspoonful of fine-chopped tarragon and the same of chervil ; 
8 107 



108 COLD SAUCES. 

add also 1 teaspoonful anchovy essence, Y4 teaspoonfiil white pep- 
per ; mix all well together ; add last Yg cup of whipped cream, and 
serve. 

Vinegretti Sauce. — Put the yolk of 1 hard-boiled egg into a 
small bowl ; rub it fine ; add gradually 3 tablespoonfuls oil ; then 
add 3 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped shallots or white onions, 1 even 
tablespoonf ul salt, 1 even teaspoonful white pepper, 3 tablespoonfuls 
white vinegar, and serve. 

Herring Sauce. — Soak 1 herring in milk for 12 hours ; then 
remove it ; wash and free it from skin and bones ; chop the herring 
meat as fine as possible. Put the yolk of 3 hard-boiled eggs in a 
bowl, rub them fine ; add slowly 3 tablespoonfuls of oil, then 3 to 4 
tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful 
white pepper, 3 tablespoonfuls grated horseradish, and the herring. 

Radish Sauce. — Clean and grate 4 black radishes; mix to- 
gether 3 tablespoonfuls oil, 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 teaspoonful 
salt ; add the grated radish, and serve with soup meat. 

Mint Sauce. — Two hours before serving mix 2 tablespoonfuls 
fine-chopped mint with 2 tablespoonfuls water, 4 tablespoonfuls 
vinegar, 1 tablespoonful sugar, V2 teaspoonful salt. Serve with 
roasted lamb. Some prefer boiling the sauce a few minutes. 

Chantilly Sauce. — Mix the yolk of 1 hard-boiled egg with 1 
raw yolk ; add slowly 4 tablespoonfuls olive oil ; then add 2 cloves 
of fine-chopped shallots or a small white onion, 1 tablespoonful 
fine-chopped capers ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Yo teaspoonful 
white pepper ; chop the hard-boiled white of egg very fine, add it 
with 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar and Ys teaspoonful of sugar to the 
sauce ; when this is well mixed add 3 tablespoonfuls whipped cream, 
and serve. 

Latana Sauce. — Break 1 egg in a bowl and beat it 2 minutes ; 
add slowly 3 tablespoonfuls oil ; then add 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar 
and 1 small white onion chopped exceedingly fine ; season with 1 



COLD SAUCES. 109 

even tablespoonf ul salt, 1 even teaspoonful white pepper ; mix all 
together, and serve with boiled meat. 

Benton Sauce. — Mix 1 teaspoonful dry English mustard 
with 1 teaspoonful sugar, Yg teaspoonful salt ; add slowly 4 table- 
spoonfuls white vinegar and 2 tablespoonfuls grated horseradish. 
Let it stand several hours, and serve with cold meat. 

Englisli Mustard — How to mix. — Put 2 tablespoonfuls mus- 
tard into a small bowl ; add Yg teaspoonful salt, the same of sugar ; 
moisten with 2 tablespoonfuls white vinegar ; when this is well 
mixed add, drop by drop, 1 tablespoonf ul olive oil ; fill into a mus- 
tard cup, cover and let it stand 24 hours, then use. 

German Cream Sauce for Lettuce. — Mix Ys pint thick sour 
cream with Y2 tablespoonf ul of vinegar, a sprinkle of salt, 1 table- 
spoonful sugar, and serve. 

Egg Sauce for Lettuce. — Fry 1 tablespoonful very fine-cut 
larding pork light brown and crisp ; mix it with 2 well-beaten eggs, 
2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, a sprinkle of salt, and 1 tablespoonful 
sugar, and serve. 

Cold Game Sauce. — Put the yolk of 3 hard-boiled eggs into 
a bowl ; rub them fine ; add slowly, while stirring constantly, 4 table- 
spoonfuls oil, then add 2 tablespoonfuls French mustard, Ys giU of 
vinegar, 1 tablespoonful sugar, and 1 tablespoonful juniper berries. 

Rayigote Sauce. — Rub the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs fine ; 
add slowly, while stirring constantly, 4 tablespoonfuls oil ; then 1 
even teaspoonful salt, Ya even teaspoonful white pepper, 1 table- 
spoonful fine-chopped capers, the same of fine- chopped parsley and 
olives; lastly 2 tablespoonfuls white vinegar and 1 tablespoonful 
tarragon vinegar. 

Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Mix 1 tablespoonful flour with 
Y2 cup cold water ; add the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 even teaspoonful salt ; 
when this is well mixed add slowly lYg cup boiling water, place the 
saucepan over the fire, and stir till nearly boiling ; then add slowly, 



110 COLD SAUCES. 

in small pieces, 2 ounces butter, Y^ teaspoonful nutmeg, the juice of 
Va lemon, and 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley. 

Horseradish— How to prepare for the Tahle.— Add to 1 

cupful grated horseradish Yg cup white vinegar, 1 teaspoonful sugar, 
and Y2 teaspoonful salt ; mix well together ; put it into small glass 
jars with a cover ; let it stand several hours ; then serve with roasted 
meat or cold meats. 

Mayonnaise. — Put into a bowl the yolks of 2 eggs ; add 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, stir 3 minutes ; then add, drop by drop, 1 cupful 
olive oil ; as it thickens add a few drops of vinegar, about Ys table- 
spoonful in all, the same of lemon juice, and a little dry mustard. 
Cayenne pepper may be added if liked. 

German Mayonnaise. — Put the yolks of 2 eggs in a bowl; 
add 1 even teaspoonful salt, stir this a few minutes, then add a 
few drops of olive oil ; stir again a few minutes ; continue the stir- 
ring, adding oil till Y2 pint of it has been used ; add 1 teaspoonful 
herb vinegar (if not at hand take white vinegar) ; stir until the in- 
gredients have formed into a thick smooth sauce. In the mean- 
time mix 1 teaspoonful cornstarch with a little cdd water ; add Yz 
cupful boiling water, and place it over the fire ; add 1 teaspoonful 
butter and stir till it boils ; then add 2 tablespoonf uls cream, a little 
salt, and 1 teaspoonful lemon juice ; when this is cold add it to the 
above mayonnaise. 



BUTTERS, Etc. 

Melted Butter. — Put Yg cup butter into a small saucepan, set 
the saucepan in a vessel of boiling water over the fire ; as soon as 
the butter is melted, remove the scum, pour the butter slowly into a 
sauce bowl without the sediment on the bottom. 

Black Butter Sauce. — Place a small saucepan with Y4 cup of 
vinegar, Yg bay leaf, a sprinkle of salt and pepper, over the fire ; re- 
duce by boiling to one half ; put in a small saucepan 2 ounces of 
butter, let it melt and get dark brown, then pour it into the vine- 
gar ; remove the bay leaf and serve. 

Seasoning Butter. — Stir 4 ounces of butter to a cream, add 1 
once salt, Y4 ounce pepper ; mix well together ; then put it into a 
glass jar, cover closely and set in a cool place ; to be used for broiled 
and fried steaks and chops, also fish. 

Maitre d'Hotel Butter. — Put 2 ounces of butter in a small 
bowl, stir it to a cream ; add slowly 2 tablespoonf uls of lemon juice, 
a few drops at a time, 1 teaspoonful grated nutmeg, and 1 table- 
spoonful fine-chopped parsley. 

Scallion Butter. — One teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, the 
same of chives, tarragon, and chervil, 1 fine-chopped shallot, a few 
drops of spinach green, and 1 fine-minced anchovy without skin or 
bones ; mix all well together with 2 tablespoonfuls butter and press 
through a sieve. 

Horseradish Butter. — Mix 1 tablespoonful grated horse- 
radish with 1 tablespoonful butter and a little Cayenne pepper. 
When this butter is used for sauce it must not boil. 

Ill 



112 BUTTERS, Etc. 

Crawfish Butter. — Eemove the meat from 25 boiled crawfish, 
dry the shells, put them with 4 ounces of butter into a mortar, and 
pound fine; place them in a saucepan over the fire, and stir 5 
minutes ; add 1 pint boiling water, cook 5 minutes ; then strain 
through a napkin into cold water; as soon as the butter is cold and 
firm, remove from the water, place it in a small saucepan and stir 
a few minutes over the fire ; it is then ready to use. It may be put 
in a small glass jar and set in a cool place. 

Lobster Butter is prepared the same as Crawfish Butter, 
adding to the dried shells of 2 boiled lobsters 4 ounces butter. 

Lobster Coral Butter. — Extract the coral from 1 boiled 
lobster ; pound it in a mortar to a paste ; mix with Yi pound butter, 
and press through a fine sieve. This butter is mostly used for 
coloring purposes. 

Anchovy Butter.— Eemove the skin and bones from 12 
anchovies, wash and dry them ; then mince very fine ; mix with 3 
ounces butter, and press through a sieve ; use for sauces. 

Crab Butter. — Made same as Lobster Butter. 

Parsley, Fried. — Einse a handful of fresh parsley in cold 
water, remove the large stems, and lay the parsley in a napkin to 
dry ; then throw it in a kettle of hot lard, let it fry 1 minute ; re- 
move with a skimmer ; lay it on blotting paper, sprinkle over some 
fine salt, and set it in a warm place until ready to serve. 

Olives — How to prepare. — Take only fine green olives that 
are not too salt, cut them open and remove the pits ; lay the olives 
Ya hour in lukewarm water, to remove the salt, then rinse off with 
cold water, and dry in a napkin ; the olives are then ready either to 
be filled with forcemeat, or may be cut into small pieces, and boiled 
a few minutes in a sauce. For decorating cold dishes they are 
generally filled with anchovy butter. 



ESSENCES, Etc. 

Essence of Mushrooms.— Clean, wash, and chop fine 2 
pounds of fresh mushrooms, put them in a saucepan with 1 tea- 
spoonful salt and the juice of 2 lemons ; cover the saucepan, let 
simmer for 5 minutes ; then add 1 quart of white stock or broth, 
boil slowly for 40 minutes. Strain through a napkin, fill the essence 
into small bottles, cork tightly, and save for further use. The 
essence is used for soups, sauces, and ragouts. 

Essence of Truffles. — Boil 1 pound fresh truffles with Yg pint 
claret and 1 pint brown stock 1 hour ; then strain through a nap- 
kin, fill the essence into small bottles, and use for sauces, soups, and 
ragouts. 

Essence of Spice. — Mix Yg ounce of ground ginger, the same 
of cloves and mace, 1 ounce mustard, Ys ounce fine-cut garlic, Ys 
tablespoonful whole pepper, 1 cupful grated horseradish, 4 bay 
leaves, 1 tablespoonful salt ; take 2 cupf uls shelled walnuts, pour 
boiling water over them, remove the brown skin, and lay them in a 
glass jar in alternate layers with the spice, cover with 1 quart of the 
best white vinegar, screw the cover on tightly, and set the jar in the 
sun for 2 or 3 weeks ; then put the essence through filtering paper, 
fill into small bottles, and use for sauces or for whatever these spices 
are used in. 

Essence of Anchovies. — Wash in several waters 12 anchovies; 
put them with Y2 cup water, Y2 cup white wine in a small saucepan 
over the fire ; add 1 onion, 6 whole peppers, and a small bouquet ; 
stew slowly for 15 minutes ; strain through a napkin ; fill in a small 
bottle, and set in a cool place. 

113 



114 ESSENCES, Etc. 

Essence of Game. — Place a saucepan with Y2 tablespoonful 
butter over the fire ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped raw ham, 
the same of carrots and onions ; add a bouquet and 6 whole peppers; 
over this lay some fine-chopped bones and remnants of any kind of 
birds, prairie chickens, or rabbits, either cooked or raw ; add 1 pint 
broth or soup stock, Yg pint Madeira wine, cover and boil until the 
bouillon has boiled away and the bottom of saucepan is covered 
with a brown gravy ; then add sufficient broth to cover, boil 1 hour, 
strain through a napkin, and use for sauces. 

Essence of Fish. — Place 1 sliced onion in a saucepan, add 2 
cloves, 6 coarsely crushed peppers, 1 sprig of thyme, the same of mar- 
joram and parsley ; over this lay some remnants of raw fish — such 
as bones, skin, head, etc., or take a whole fish ; cover with 1 pint 
white broth, and cook till it is dry ; cover the whole with broth, add 
Y2 pint white wine, and cook 40 minutes ; then strain through a 
napkin. This essence is mostly used in sauces which are to be 
served with the same fish the essence is made of. 

Essence of Poultry. — Chop fine the bones and remnants of 
ducks, turkeys, or chickens, place them in a saucepan ; add 1 pint 
of white broth, cover and cook till dry, then add sufficient broth to 
cover all ; add a bouquet, 1 onion, 1 leek, cover and cook 2 hours ; 
strain through a napkin, return the liquid to saucepan ; reduce it 
by boiling to one half ; remove the fat, fill the essence into small 
bottles, close tightly, and set in a cool place until wanted. 

Fine Herlbs. — Chop fine 6 shallots, place them with 1 ounce 
butter over the fire, cook 3 minutes ; then add Y2 cupful fine- 
chopped mushrooms, cook slowly 10 minutes ; remove from fire ; 
dip 2 sprigs of parsley in boiling water, instantly remove, chop fine, 
add 1 tablespoonful of it to the above preparation ; season with Y2 
teaspoonful salt, and the same of grated nutmeg. If not used all 
at once, put it in a small glass jar, cover with buttered paper, and 
keep in a cool place. 



ESSENCES, Etc. 115 

Essence of Chicken. — May be prepared of carcasses of roast 
poultry ; or reduce by boiling 3 pints of chicken broth to 1 pint. 

Seasoning Salt. — Mix together 4 tablespoonfuls salt and 1 
tablespoonful white pepper, and use for seasoning. 

Herbs Salt. — Take of bay leaves, thyme, sweet basil, and mar- 
joram each Y2 ounce, lay them in a pan and dry in a slow oven, 
with the door open, then grind them fine in a small spice mill ; 
sift through a wire sieve, and mix with 1 tablespoonful salt, Yg 
teaspoonful ground cloves, 74 teaspoonful allspice, Y4 ounce white 
pepper, Y^ teaspoonful ground mace, Y2 nutmeg grated; mix all 
together, put it in a glass jar, close tightly, and use for seasoning. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 

OYSTERS. 

In Season September 1st to May 1st. 

Oysters, Fried. — Procure large fresh oysters, lift them out of 
their liquor with a fork, dry on a napkin ; roll some fresh soda 
crackers on a pastry hoard with a rolling pin ; beat 2 eggs in a 
soupplate until light ; dust the oysters with flour, then take each one 
separately on a larding needle, dip first in the beaten egg, then roll 
in cracker crumbs ; lay the oysters thus prepared on a clean board 
or dish for 30 minutes. Place a frying pan with 1 ounce pure lard 
and 1 ounce butter over the fire ; as soon as melted put in as many 
oysters as will conveniently lie in the pan, fry light brown on both 
sides, adding more butter and lard if necessary ; when the first 
panful is fried, remove all the black crumbs from the pan, or wash 
it out, put in fresh lard and butter, and fry the remaining oysters 
the same way. Serve on a hot dish with cut lemon, bread, and 
butter. 

Oysters a la Yidricaire, No. 1. — Place in a chafing dish 1 
tablespoonful butter ; when melted add 18 medium-sized oysters 
without their juice, 1 teaspoonful seasoning salt, 1 tablespoonful 
white wine or lemon juice, cook 6 minutes ; mix the yolks of 3 
eggs with 1 cupful cream, add it to the oysters, stir until nearly 
boiling, remove instantly, pour into a deep dish, and serve with 
crackers or bread and butter. 

Oysters a la Maitre d'Hotel.— Fry the oysters the same as 
in foregoing recipe, dress them on a hot dish, and spread over some 

116 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 117 

maitre d'hotel butter. Fried oysters may also be served with tar- 
tare sauce. 

Oyster Stew with Milk. — Place 1 pint milk over the fire to 
• boil ; procure 1 quart of solid fresh oysters, lift them with a fork out 
their liquor into a saucepan, strain the liquor through a sieve over the 
oysters ; add 1 tablespoonful butter, 3 tablespoonfuls cracker crumbs, 
1 even teaspoonful seasoning salt ; set over the fire, boil 2 minutes ; 
add the boiled milk and serve with oyster crackers and butter. 

Oyster Stew. — Lift 1 quart of oysters out of their liquor with 
a fork, strain the liquor into a saucepan, add the oysters, 4 table- 
spoonfuls rolled crackers, Yg even teaspoonful salt, Yg even teaspoon- 
ful white pepper, 1 ounce butter, Ys pint cold water ; place over the 
fire, and boil 2 minutes ; instantly remove. Put 1 tablespoonful 
milk in each soup plate, pour in the stew, and serve with oyster 
crackers and fine-cut raw cabbage. Mustard, vinegar, pepper, salt, 
and catsup should be placed on the table. This will make 6 small 
or 4 large plates of stew. 

Box Stew. — For a family of six, take 3 dozen large fresh 
oysters ; place the oysters with Ya pint of their strained liquor in a 
saucepan over the fire ; add 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful 
salt, 1 even teaspoonful white pepper, boil 2 minutes ; remove in- 
stantly, and serve with fine-shaved cabbage, crackers, and butter. 

Cream Stew. — For a family of six, take 3 pints of fresh oysters ; 
transfer the oysters to a saucepan ; strain the juice, add it to the 
oysters ; place over the fire, add 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 teaspoon- 
ful salt, boil 2 minutes ; then draw the saucepan to side of stove. 
Mix the yolks of 3 eggs with 1 cupful cream, add this slowly to the 
oysters, set it for a few minutes over the fire ; stir till nearly boil- 
ing ; then remove and serve. 

Creamed Oysters on Toast. — Toast 6 slices of bread to a 
delicate brown color, butter and lay them on a warm dish. Place 
18 medium-sized oysters in a saucepan over the fire, add Y2 cup of 



118 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

their strained juice, Yg teaspoonful salt, mix Yo tablespoonful butter 
with 1 even teaspoonful cornstarch ; as soon as the oysters begin to 
boil, add the cornstarch and butter, boil 2 minutes ; then draw the 
saucepan to side of stove and add ^4 cupful boiling cream ; put 3 
oysters on each piece of toast and pour the sauce over the whole, 
then serve. 

Oysters a la Creme, German Style. — Place 24 large oysters 
without their juice in a saucepan ; add the juice of 1 lemon, 1 ounce 
butter, Y4 teaspoonful white pepper, 1 even teaspoonful salt ; place 
over the fire and let come to a boil, then draw to side of stove. 
Melt in another saucepan 1 ounce butter, add Y2 tablespoonful flour, 
stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 cupful chicken broth, Y4 cupful 
mushroom liquor ; cook 5 minutes ; season with a little salt and 
white pepper. Mix the yolks of 3 eggs with ^4 cupful cream, add 
it slowly to the sauce, let it get hot without boiling ; add the oysters, 
and serve on a hot dish with a border of fleurons, and serve. In 
place of lemon juice, Y2 cupful Ehine wine may be used. 

Oysters a la Newburg. — Place 25 large oysters without their 
liquor in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 gill of white wine, 
season with 1 even teaspoonful salt and Y2 e^'cn teaspoonful pepper, 
cook a few minutes, until the oysters stiffen ; then draw them to 
side of stove. Place in another saucepan 1 gill of fine-cut mush- 
rooms and 1 fine-cut truffle, add Ys ounce butter and Y2 giU of mush- 
room liquor ; cook 5 minutes. Mix the yolks of 4 eggs with Ys P"it 
of rich sweet cream, add them to the mushrooms, add the oysters; 
let it get hot without boiling, and serve with fleurons, finger rolls, 
or crackers. 

Creamed Oysters a la Carey. — Place a saucepan with 18 large 
oysters, without their liquor, over the fire, add 1 ounce butter, 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful white pepper, cook 2 minutes, or 
until the oysters begin to ruffle ; then mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 
Y2 pint of cream ; add it to the oysters, stir over the fire till nearly 
boiling ; instantly remove and serve. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 119 

Oyster Patties. — Place 12 medium-sized oysters in a small 
saucepan, add Yg tablespoonful butter, Y4 even teaspoonful white 
pepper, Yg even teaspoonful salt ; put over the fire, and cook until 
the oysters begin to ruflQe ; then mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Y2 
cupful cream, add to the oysters, stir over the fire until nearly boil- 
ing; then instantly remove and fill them into 6 hot patty cases. 
For Patty Cases, see my book. Desserts and Salads, recipe 711. 

Oysters— Served Raw. — Wash the oysters well in cold water ; 
have them opened on the deep shell to preserve their liquor ; cover 
the bottom of deep oyster plates with shaved ice, place the oysters 
on top, and serve ; or put a small napkin over the ice and arrange 
the oysters on the napkin. Another way is to place the oysters for 
15 minutes on shaved ice, arrange them without ice on plates, and 
serve with lemons cut into quarters. 

Raw Oysters with Chantilly Sauce. — Mix in a bowl 1 table- 
spoonful very finely chopped shallots, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ys 
even teaspoonful pepper, Ys tablespoonful fine-chopped chives, 1 
tablespoonful olive oil, Y2 tablespoonful tarragon vinegar, 4 table- 
spoonfuls white vinegar, and Ys teaspoonful pepper sauce. Serve 
the oysters on the half shell, pour a little of the sauce over each, or 
serve the rest in a sauce bowl with the oysters. 

Roasted Oysters. — Wash the oysters several times in cold wa- 
ter, lay them on a broiler on a clear, strong fire ; as soon as they 
open take them off ; remove one half of the shell, leaving the oyster 
in the other. Put a small piece of butter over each oyster, and 
serve, or they can be served with maitre d'hotel butter. 

Oyster Frites a la Bearnaise. — Blanch 24 large oysters in 
their own Juice ; drain, ^d put the oysters in a covered dish with 1 
teaspoonful seasoning salt, 1 finely sliced onion, the juice of 1 
lemon, Y2 bunch of parsley, cover, and let them marinate 1 hour. 
Shortly before serving mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Ya cup milk, 1 
teaspoonful butter, Yi teaspoonful salt, the same of pepper, 2 table- 



120 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

spoonfuls flour, and the beaten whites ; wipe the oysters dry, dust 
with flour, dip in the batter, and fry in boiling fat to a delicate 
brown. Pour Yg pint Bearnaise sauce on a warm dish, dress the 
oysters over it, and serve with French bread and butter. 

Oysters en Brochette. — Place 2 dozen oysters in a saucepan ; 
add 1 cup of their liquor, 1 teaspoonful seasoning salt, boil 1 minute ; 
then drain ; inclose each oyster in a thin slice of bacon ; take 6 
skewers, put 4 oysters on each, brush over with a little melted but- 
ter ; lay the skewers on a double broiler, and broil 2 minutes on each 
side ; dress on a warm dish, spread over 1 ounce maitre d'hotel but- 
ter, garnish with parsley, and serve with French bread. 

Oyster Puree on Toast.— Place 12 large oysters with their 
liquor in a saucepan over the fire ; when beginning to boil take the 
oysters out of their liquor, and chop them fine. Melt in another 
saucepan 1 ounce butter, add Yg tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 
minutes ; add ^4 cupful cream or milk, Y2 teaspoonful salt, Y4 tea- 
spoonful white pepper, boil 2 minutes, add the oysters ; cook a few 
minutes longer ; then pour over buttered toast, and serve. 

Oyster Rolls. — Put 18 large oysters in a saucepan, strain the 
liquor over them, and place over the fire ; as soon as boiling remove, 
drain the oysters in a sieve, and cut each into 4 pieces. Melt 1 
tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add Yg tablespoonful flour, stir 
3 minutes without browning ; add 1 cupful of the oyster liquor, Y2 
cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, 1 small bouquet, 1 even teaspoon- 
ful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful white pepper, Y4 teaspoonful nutmeg, 
boil 5 minutes ; remove the bouquet and add the oysters ; cook 2 
minutes. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Y2 cupful cream, and add to 
the saucepan, stir until nearly boiling, then add 1 tablespoonful 
lemon juice. In the meantime cut the tojjp from 6 French rolls to 
remove the crumbs ; brush the inside and outside over with butter, 
set the rolls with the tops on a baking sheet in a hot oven ; bake 
light brown and crisp ; fill the rolls with oysters, put on the covers, 
and serve on a folded napkin. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 121 

Oysters a I'ltalienne. — Place 2 handfuls of well-washed spin- 
ach in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add a little salt, and boil 
10 minutes ; then drain ; press out all the water, and chop the spinach 
fine. Fry 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onions in 1 ounce butter 
and 1 bruised clove of garlic 5 minutes without browning ; add 
Ya cupful of the chopped spinach, 12 fine-chopped oysters, 1 tea- 
spoonful salt, Ya teaspoonf ul pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls cream, stir 
and cook 5 minutes ; then remove from the fire, and add the yolk 
of 1 egg and 1 whole egg. Blanch 12 large oysters in their own 
liquor ; have ready 6 shells, put 2 oysters in each, cover with the 
preparation in saucepan, sprinkle over little grated bread crumbs 
and melted butter, and bake 15 minutes in a hot oven. Serve on a 
folded rTapkin. 

Broiled Oysters. — For a family of six, take 3 dozen large 
oysters, dry on a soft towel, dip in melted butter, and roll in cracker 
dust ; lay on a broiler and broil over clear fire 2 minutes on each 
side ; sprinkle over Ys teaspoonful salt. Dress the oysters on a warm 
dish, garnish with fried parsley and cut lemons, serve with French 
bread and butter. 

Oyster Salad. — See my book Desserts and Salads, recipe 908. 

Oysters a la Normandie. — Place 1 pint of oysters, without 
their liquor, in a saucepan over the fire ; add 1 teaspoonful butter, 
the juice of 1 lemon, 1 even teaspoonful seasoning salt, let simmer 
3 minutes ; then remove from fire. Melt 1 ounce butter in a sauce- 
pan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 2 minutes ; add 1 cupful chicken 
broth, 1 cupful oyster liquor, and 3 tablespoonfuls mushroom liquor, 
a small bouquet, cook 5 minutes ; then remove the bouquet ; add Y2 
teaspoonful beef extract, Ys even teaspoonful seasoning salt ; mix 
the yolks of 2 eggs with 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, add it slowly 
to the sauce ; add last 2 tablespoonfuls cream and the oysters ; let 
them get hot, and pour over 6 slices of toast. 

Pickled Oysters. — Procure 1 hundred large oysters ; place 
them with their liquor ov* the fire, let come to a boil, then remove 



122 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

with a skimmer, and immediately lay the oysters in a pan with 
cracked ice. Put 1 pint of the oyster liquor in a saucepan ; add 1 
pint of vinegar, 6 whole cloves, and 1 teaspoonful whole peppers, 2 
blades of mace, and 1 even tablespoonful salt ; set over the fire, and 
boil 5 minutes ; remove, and when cold, place the oysters in a stone 
jar ; pour over the liquor, add 1 fine-sliced lemon without the pits ; 
cover the jar, and keep in a cool place. 

Oyster Dumplings. — Put 18 large oysters in a saucepan, add 
Ya tablespoonful butter, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Yg even teaspoonful 
white pepper, the juice of Y2 lemon, set over the fire ; when begin- 
ning to boil, remove from fire and set aside to cool. Poll out very 
thin 4 ounces puff paste or rich pie crust, cut it into 6 square pieces, 
lay 3 oysters in the center of each square, brush the corners over 
with beaten egg, inclose the oysters in the paste, and press the 4 
corners together ; rinse a tin pan with cold water, place the dump- 
lings into it, brush over with beaten egg, and bake light brown in a 
hot oven. In the meantime melt 1 tablespoonful butter, add 1 
tablespoonful flour, stir 3 minutes ; add 1 cupful oyster liquor and 1 
cupful cream or milk, Y2 even teaspoonful salt, Y* teaspoonful white 
pepper, and the broth in which the oysters were cooked ; boil 5 min- 
utes, then strain, and serve with the dumplings. 

Oyster Croquettes. — Place 20 large oysters with their liquor 
in a saucepan over the fire ; let come to a boil ; remove, and when 
cold chop fine. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook a few minutes; add 1 cupful oyster 
liquor, cook 5 minutes ; add the chopped oysters, 1 even teaspoonful 
salt, Y2 teaspoonful white pepper, Y2 teaspoonful English mustard, 
stir for a few minutes over the fire ; add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped 
parsley, stir a few minutes; then add the yolks of 3 eggs, turn 
the preparation on to a flat dish, and set in a cool place. When 
cold, form the mixture into cork-shaped croquettes, dip them in 
beaten egg, and roll in fresh grated bread crumbs. Place a frying 
pan over the fire, with Y2 tablespoonful 1^-d, Y2 tablespoonful butter 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 123 

(or fry in hot fat) ; when hot put in as many croquettes as will con- 
veniently go in ; fry light brown on both sides. Serve with either 
bechamel, Tartar, or tomato sauce, or with sauce a I'allemande. 

Oyster Chops. — Form the above mixture into chops, and finish 
the same as croquettes. 

Oyster Farci. — Prepare 6 ounces of chicken forcemeat ; place 
18 large oysters in a saucepan over the fire ; add the juice of Yg 
lemon, 1 teaspoonf ul seasoning salt, 1 ounce butter, Yg cup of their 
own juice ; let come slowly to a boil ; remove ; when cold, drain 
and dry on a napkin. Spread the chicken forcemeat over both 
sides of the oysters, dip each in beaten egg, roll in fresh grated 
bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat to a fine color. Arrange the 
oysters nicely on a warm dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. 

Oyster RagOtit. — Put 12 large oysters in a saucepan over the 
fire; add the juice of Y2 lemon, Y2 tablespoonful butter, a little 
salt and white pepper, and cook a few minutes till the oysters ruffle. 
Melt in another saucepan 1 tablespoonful butter, add 1 tablespoon- 
ful fiour, stir 3 minutes, add 1 cupful white broth, Y2 cupful 
oyster liquor, Y2 cupful canned mushrooms and a little of their 
liquor, Y2 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cook 10 
minutes. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Y4 cupful cream, add it to 
the saucepan, add the oysters, let it remain over the fire till nearly 
boiling, then remove. Have in the meantime 12 fish balls or 
chicken forcemeat balls, prepared and boiled, add them to the 
ragout, and serve. 

Oysters a la Tilleroi. — Place 18 large oysters in a saucepan 
over the fire; add the juice of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful seasoning 
salt, 1 ounce butter, and Y2 cup of their juice ; when beginning to 
boil, remove from fire, and drain. Prepare a thick Villeroi sauce, 
cover each oyster with the sauce, lay on a buttered tin pan, and set 
for 1 hour on ice. Dip the oysters in beaten egg and roll in bread 
crumbs, fry in hot fat to a delicate brown. These oysters are 
mostly used for garnishing; 



124 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

Oysters with Celery. — Place 1 pint fine-cut table celery in a 
saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water ; add 1 even tea- 
spoonful salt, and boil till tender. Put 12 oysters with 1 cupful of 
their liquor in a saucepan ; add Yg even teaspoonful salt, or a little 
white pepper, boil 2 minutes ; mix Yg tablespoonful cornstarch with 
Ys tablespoonful butter, add it to the oysters ; drain the celery, add 
it also to the oysters, boil 2 minutes ; add 2 tablespoonf uls cream or 
unsweetened condensed milk ; then pour over 6 slices buttered toast, 
and serve. 

Oyster Pie. — Take an earthen dish which holds 3 pints and 
line the sides with rich pie crust ; lift 1 quart of large oysters with 
a fork out of their liquor, lay them in layers in the dish ; sprinkle 
between 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful pepper, and lay Y2 
tablespoonful butter in small bits over the oysters ; cover with the 
same crust and cut an opening in the center of top crust ; then 
place in oven to bake. In the meantime melt 1 tablespoonful 
butter, add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook for a few minutes ; then add 
the strained oyster liquor and Y2 cupful water, cook 2 minutes; 
season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ys ^ven teaspoonful white 
pepper, and add 1 cup cream or milk ; when the pie is nearly done, 
put a funnel in the center opening, and pour in as much of the 
sauce as the pie will hold, return to oven and bake 10 minutes 
longer ; if there is any sauce left, serve it with the pie. Another 
way is to boil 3 potatoes until done, then cut in slices, and put in 
alternate layers in the dish with the oysters. 

CLAMS. 

Clams on Half-shell. — Clams to be sweet and fresh should be 
well washed in cold water, kept as cold as possible, and not opened 
until shortly before serving. Have deep oyster plates covered with 
fine-shaved ice, the clams on half-shells, place them in the ice (al- 
lowing 6 to 8 clams for each plate) with a quarter of a lemon, and 
serve. Another way is to cover the ice with a small napkin and 
dress the clams over it. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 125 

Roasted Clams. — Wash the clams in cold water and lay them 
on a broiler over a clear, strong fire ; as soon as they open take them 
from the broiler, remove the upper half-shell, leaving the clam in 
the remaining half ; pour a few drops of melted butter over each 
one, and serve. 

Clams a la Maryland. — Procure 18 fresh soft-shell clams, lift 
them with a fork out of their liquor; melt 1 ounce butter in a 
saucepan ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, fry 5 minutes 
without browning ; then add the clams, cover and cook 6 minutes ; 
season with Y^ teaspoonful pepper ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Yg 
cupful cream, add it to the clams, toss for a few minutes over the 
fire without boiling, then serve. 

Fried Soft-sliell Clams. — Procure freshly opened soft-shell 
clams, remove them with a fork out of their liquor on to a soft 
towel, and after drying lay the clams on a dish, dust over with 
flour ; then take each one separately on a fork, dip first in beaten 
egg, then roll in cracker dust, lay them thus prepared on a clean 
board for 30 minutes to dry. Place a frying pan with 1 ounce pure 
lard and 1 ounce butter over the fire ; as soon as melted put in as 
many clams as will conveniently go in ; fry light brown, first on 
one side then on the other ; fry the remainder the same way, using 
more lard and butter if necessary. Arrange them nicely on a hot 
dish, and serve with biscuits and butter or buttered toast. In place 
of lard or butter, beef fat or larding pork may be used. 

Soft-shell Clams Fried in Batter.— Procure 1 dozen soft- 
shell clams, drain and dry on a towel. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs 
with Y2 cupful clam liquor, 2 heaping tablespoonfuls flour, 1 tea- 
spoonful melted butter, beat this with a spoon for 3 minutes ; then 
add the 2 whites beaten to a stiff froth, take each clam on a fork, 
dip into the batter, and drop into boiling fat ; fry light brown like 
crullers till done. 

Devilled Clams. — Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 2 
tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, cook 3 minutes ; add Y2 cupful 



126 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

fine-chopped mushrooms, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 heaping table- 
spoonful flour, stir 2 minutes ; add Yg pint clam liquor, stir and 
cook till smooth ; then add 12 fine-choiDped clams, Yg even teaspoon- 
ful pepper, stir and cook 6 minutes ; remove from fire. Mix the 
yolks of 2 eggs with Y2 cupful cream, add it to the clams, fill this 
preparation into 6 well-cleaned clam shells, sprinkle over some fresh 
grated bread crumbs and a little melted butter, and bake to a fine 
color in a hot oven. (If liked, 1 clove of bruised garlic may be 
added with the onion.) 

Clams a la Newport. — Scald 18 fresh soft-shell clams in their 
liquor, then drain ; remove the hard part. Place the clams in a 
saucepan with 2 ounces butter, the juice of Y2 lemon, Y2 even tea- 
spoonful pepper, toss for a few minutes over the fire. Mix the yolks 
of 2 eggs with Ys cupful cream, add to the clams and let remain for 
a few minutes over the fire. Serve on a warm dish ; garnish with 
croutons or toasted bread. 

Hot Clam Pepper Roast. — Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan ; 
add 2 tablespoonf uls fine-chopped onion, 1 fine-chopped green pepper, 
small clove of bruised garlic, cook 5 minutes without browning ; then 
add Y2 cupful clam juice, Y2 teaspoonf ul beef extract, Y2 even tea- 
spoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonf ul pepper. Kemove the soft bodies 
from 12 fresh-opened soft-shell clams, chop the hard parts fine and 
add it with the bodies to the saucepan; cook 5 minutes. Lay 6 
slices of buttered toast on a hot plate ; pour the clam mixture over 
them, and serve very hot. 

Clams Brooklyiiaise. — Procure 2 dozen freshly opened Little 
Neck clams, drain them in a sieve. Melt 1 ounce butter in a sauce- 
pan, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped white onions, cook till the 
onions are done without browning ; then add Y2 tablespoonful flour, 
stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 cupful boiling water, Y2 teaspoonful 
beef extract, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful white pep- 
per, stir until smooth, then add the clams, cook slowly 6 minutes ; 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 127 

add the juice of Yg lemon, stir well ; add last 74 cupful cream, and 
serve with fleurons. 

Steamed Clams. — Wash the clams several times in cold water, 
place them with a little water in a saucepan over the fire, cover and 
cook till they open ; then remove ; take them out of their shells, 
put in a saucepan, add to 2 dozen clams 1 tablespoonful butter and 
Y4 teaspoonful white pepper ; toss for a few moments over the fire, 
and serve. 

Clam a I'Espagnole. — Put 1 fine-chopped onion in a sauce- 
pan over the fire ; add 1 ounce butter or oil, 1 fine-chopped green 
pepper, 1 bruised clove of garlic, cook 3 minutes ; add Yg cupful 
fine-chopped mushrooms, cook 5 minutes ; add 2 fine-cut tomatoes, 
cover, and simmer slowly 8 minutes. In the meantime place a small 
saucepan with Ys tablespoonful butter over the fire, add Y2 table- 
spoonful flour, stir 2 minutes ; add Y2 cupful boiling water, Ys cup- 
ful clam liquor, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, cook 5 minutes ; add 
this sauce to the contents in saucepan, season with 1 teaspoonful 
salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper. Boil IY2 dozen soft-shell clams in their 
liquor 3 minutes ; then drain ; remove the hard parts and add the 
soft bodies to the saucepan, cook a few minutes ; serve in a border 
of rice a la Creole. Boil Y2 pound rice 10 minutes in water; drain 
and spread it for 1 hour on a towel to dry ; fry 1 fine-chopped 
onion in 1 ounce butter 5 minutes, add the rice, stir 3 minutes ; 
then add IY2 pint of water, 1 even teaspoonful salt, cover and cook 
in a double boiler till the rice is done ; turn it on to a long dish, 
add 1 ounce butter in small pieces, and mix it with 2 forks. Pour 
the clams in the center of an oblong dish and lay the rice around 
the clams. 

Clam Pie. — Take 1 quart of clams out of their liquor with a 
fork, cut off and chop the hard part fine, set the soft part aside ; 
put the chopped clams in a saucepan with 2 cupfuls of the strained 
clam liquor and 1 cup of water ; let it come to a boil. Mix 1 table- 
spoonful butter with 1 tablespoonful cornstarch ; add it to the con- 



128 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

tents of saucepan, boil 5 minutes, and set aside to keep warm. Line 
the sides of a 3-pint I3ie disli with pie crust, sprinkle over the bot- 
tom 1 tablespoonful jsowdered cracker; then put in half of the 
clams, and on them a layer of fine-sliced parboiled potatoes, little 
fine-minced onion, some pepper, a few small pieces of butter, 2 
tablespoonfuls of the above sauce, and a spoonful powdered cracker. 
Put in the remaining clams and a layer of sliced potatoes, onion, 
butter, pepper, some of the sauce, and a spoonful powdered cracker, 
cover with pie crust with an opening cut into the center. Place the 
pie in a medium hot oven, and after 15 minutes' baking, draw the 
dish toward the front of oven, place a funnel in the opening of top 
crust, and pour half of the sauce into the pie. Set it back in the 
oven and bake till done, which will take about 1 hour. Shortly be- 
fore serving pour some more sauce into the pie, put the rest in a 
sauce bowl, and serve with the pie. 

Clam Croquettes. — Place 20 clams with their liquor in a 
saucepan over the fire ; as soon as boiling remove, drain on a sieve, 
and chop fine. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 2 table- 
spoonfuls fine-chopped onions, cook 5 minutes without browning ; 
add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 
cupful clam liquor, Yg teaspoonful white pepper, Yg teaspoonful dry 
mustard, cook 3 minutes ; add the fine-chopped clams and 1 tea- 
spoonful fine-chopped parsley, stir and cook 5 minutes; add the 
yolks of 3 eggs, mix well ; then turn the mixture on a flat dish, and 
set aside to cool. When ready to cook form the clam preparation 
into cork-shaped croquettes, dip them into beaten egg, and roll in 
fresh grated bread crumbs, fry them light brown in half lard and 
butter, or in hot fat. 

Clam Chops. — Form the above mixture into small chops, dip 
them in beaten egg, cover with grated bread crumbs, and fry light 
brown. Serve with tomato sauce a I'allemande. 

Clam Patties. — Chop 1 pint of clams fine, strain, their liquor, 
and put Y2 cup of the liquor in a saucepan over the fire ; as soon as 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 129 

it boils add the clams, boil 10 minutes. Mix 1 tablespoonful butter 
with 1 teaspoonful cornstarch ; add it to the clams with Yg cup boil- 
ing milk, and season with Y^ teaspoonful white pepper; then fill 
the preparation into hot patty cases, and serve. 

Clams, Pickled. — Take 100 hard-shell clams, 1 pint vinegar, 4 
blades of ma^ce, 10 whole cloves, 1 dozen whole black peppers, 1 
lemon. Place the clams, thoroughly washed, in a kettle with Y2 
pint of water over the fire, cover tightly, and steam until they open. 
Eemove the kettle from the fire, take the clams out of their shells, 
put them in a stone jar, or in glass jars, leaving sufficient room for 
the pickle. Strain 1 pint of the clam liquor, put it in saucepan 
with 1 pint vinegar and the spices, boil 5 minutes ; pour it over 
the clams, cut the lemon into slices, remove the pits, and add it to 
the clams. Cover the jar, and put away in a cool place. 

Puree of Clams. — Take 1 pint of hard-shell clams with their 
liquor, 1 tablespoonful butter, Ys cupful cream or milk, Ys table- 
spoonful cornstarch, Ys teaspoonful white pepper. Boil the clams 
in their liquor 2 minutes ; remove with a fork, and chop fine. Place 
a saucepan with the butter over the fire, add the flour, stir and cook 
2 minutes ; strain the clam broth ; add 1 cupful broth to the sauce- 
pan, cook 2 minutes ; add the chopped clams and pepper, cook 10 
minutes; add last the cream or Ys cupful boiling milk. Lay 6 
slices of buttered toast on a hot dish, pour the clam puree over it, 
and serve. 

Clam Fritters. — Mix 4 ounces prepared flour with 1 whole egg 
and 1 yolk, 4 tablespoonfuls clam liquor, Ys teaspoonful butter, a 
pinch of 'Cayenne pepper, 8 large fine-chopped clams. Drop this 
preparation with a tablespoon into boiling fat, and fry light brown, 
like crullers ; when done remove with a perforated skimmer on to an 
upturned sieve or paper, to drain off the grease, and serve on a 
warm dish. 



130 SEA FOOD, Etc. 



MUSSELS. 



Mussels — How to prepare. — Scrape and wash 2 dozen mussels 
several times in cold water; place in a saucepan, add 1 pint cold 
water, set over the fire, and boil until they open ; then remove, cut 
off the black part with a pair of scissors ; put in a clean saucepan, 
strain over the liquor ; they are then ready to use. 

Mussels a la Britannia. — Prepare IV2 dozen mussels as in fore- 
going recipe ; place a small saucepan with 1 fine-chopped onion and 
Ys cup white wine over the fire ; add 1 tablespoonful tarragon vine- 
gar, boil down to one half, remove, and, when nearly cold, add the 
yolks of 3 eggs and 2 ounces butter in small pieces ; set the sauce- 
pan in hot water and stir till thick, seasoning with little salt, the 
juice of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, and 1 tea- 
spoonful fine-minced shallots ; take the mussels out of their liquor, 
put in a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Mussels a la Marini^re. — Prepare 18 mussels as previously 
directed ; place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the fire, add 1 
fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 5 
minutes ; add Yg cupful mussel broth, 1 cupful white wine, season 
with 1 even teaspoonful seasoning salt, boil 5 minutes ; add 1 table- 
spoonful butter in small pieces, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley and 
the mussels, then serve. 

Mussel Farci. — Prepare 18 mussels, cut them into small pieces; 
fry 1 fine-chopped onion in 1 ounce butter, add 1 bruised clove of 
garlic, cook 5 minutes ; then add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 3 min- 
utes ; add Vg cupful mussel broth, Yg cupful cream, stir and cook till 
smooth ; then add the mussels, season with salt and pepper ; add the 
yolks of 2 eggs ; fill this preparation in some clean mussel shells, 
sprinkle over some bread crumbs, and bake in hot oven till brown. 
Serve on a napkin. 

Mussels a la Tilleroi. — Prepared the same as Oysters Villeroi. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 131 

Mussels a la Normandie. — Prepare 18 mussels the same as 
Mussel Farci ; place a saucepan with 1 fine-cut onion over the fire, 
add 1 ounce butter, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonf ul flour, stir 
3 minutes; then add Yg cupful mussel broth, Yg cupful mushroom 
liquor, 1 cupful boiling water with 1 teaspoonful beef extract, 1 
even teaspoonful seasoning salt, and a small bouquet ; boil 5 minutes ; 
then strain the sauce into a clean saucepan ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs 
with the juice of Ys lemon, add it to the sauce, also the mussels ; re- 
turn for a few minutes to the fire, heat without boiling, and pour 
over 6 slices of buttered toast. (If mushrooms are not at hand, 
take 1 cup of the mussel broth in place of a half cup.) 

Mussels^ Pickled. — Wash 100 mussels thoroughly clean, put 
them into a large kettle with 1 pint of water, cover tightly, and boil 
till the shells open ; take them with a knife from their shells and 
put into glass jars. Prepare a pickle of 1 pint vinegar, Y2 pi^it 
water, 1 tablespoonf ul whole peppers, 6 whole cloves, 2 blades of 
mace, Ys tablespoonful salt, and 2 or 3 small red peppers ; boil this 
a few minutes, and set aside to cool. Add to the mussels in jars 
some slices of lemon without pits, pour the cold pickle over ; cover 
tightly and set in a cool place. 

SHRIMPS. 

Boiled Shrimps. — Put the shrimps alive in the boiling salt 
water, allowing Ya pound salt to a gallon of water ; boil from 5 to 8 
minutes. When they change color they are done. Serve them with 
vinegar and oil. 

Shrimps with May Oimaise.— Extract the meat from the 
boiled shrimps, mix with lemon juice, and set aside. Shortly be- 
fore serving, put on a salad dish and dress the shrimps with mayon- 
naise, hard-boiled eggs, and lettuce. For Shrimp Salad, see my 
book Desserts and Salads, recipe 905. 



132 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

LOBSTER. 

In Seaso7i the Year Round. 

Lobster — Where found, etc. — Lobster is a well-known marine 
crustacean of the order Deccqjoda, and genus Homarus. They come 
inshore from deep water during the months of March, April, and 
May, according to locality, and depart as irregularly in the autumn. 
There is only one species in our waters, found northward from the 
coast of New York, the best being on the rocky shores of New Eng- 
land north of Cape Cod. They are common in our markets, espe- 
cially in spring and summer, and are considered a great delicacy, 
though the meat is rather indigestible. No part is poisonous, 
though the cartilaginous stomach, or the lady, is so tough that no 
one would think of eating it. 

Lobster — How to choose. — These are chosen more by weight 
than by size ; the heaviest are best. A good small-sized one will 
not infrequently be found to weigh as heavily as one much larger. 
(If fresh, a lobster will be lively, and the claws have a strong motion 
when the eyes are pressed with the finger.) The male is best for 
boiling ; the flesh is firmer, and the shell a brighter red ; it may be 
readily distinguished from the female. The tail is narrower, and 
the two uppermost fins within the tail are stiff and hard. Those of 
the hen lobster are not so, and the tail is broader. Hen lobsters are 
preferred for sauce or salad on account of their coral. The head 
and small claws are never used. 

Lobster au Naturel. — Buy the lobsters alive and choose those 
that are heavy and full of motion, which is the indication of their 
freshness, medium-sized lobsters being the best. Have ready a ves- 
sel of boiling salt water, allowing for each gallon of water 2 table- 
spoonfuls salt, and plunge the lobster headforemost into it, boiling 
from 25 to 45 minutes as the size demands (a 2-pound lobster will 
be done in 25 minutes). When done take the lobster out with a 
skimmer, rub all over with a little butter to make the shell nice and 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 133 

glazy ; cut the lobster first lengthwise in two pieces, using a knife 
and a hammer, and then cut each half again in two pieces ; remove 
the small vein running through the back of tail. Break off the 
claws, open them on the under side, take out the meat, the green 
part or fat, and coral ; then remove the stomach, which, generally 
called the lady, is found under the head, and must be thrown away ; 
the lady, the vein, and the spongy fingers between the body and 
shell are the only parts not eatable. Put the whole lobster together 
again into its natural form, serve on a dish garnished with cut 
lemon and parsley, and serve with melted butter. Cold lobster is 
served with remolade or with mayonnaise. 

Lolbster, Broiled. — Split a medium-sized lobster in half, take 
out the lady, the vein, and the spongy fingers and throw them 
away; then brush the two halves over with melted butter, season 
with Yg even teaspoonful salt and a little pepper, lay them between a 
wire gridiron, and broil 8 minutes on both sides. Place them on a 
hot dish and serve with maitre d'hotel butter. 

Lobster a la Creme. — Drop a 2-pound live lobster into boil- 
ing water, add 1 tablespoonf ul salt, and boil 25 minutes ; then take 
out of the water, and when cold split the lobster, extract all the 
meat, and cut it into pieces ; place it in a saucepan over the fire, 
add Ya tablespoonful butter, 1 even teaspoonful salt, stirring a few 
minutes ; then add 1 cupful cream and cook 5 minutes ; next mix 
the yolks of 3 eggs with Yg cupful cream, and removing the sauce- 
pan to side of stove, add gi-adually the yolks ; mix well and serve 
in the shell of the lobster, or serve it on a dish garnished with 
fleurons or croutons. Creamed lobster is also used for lobster 
patties. 

Lobster a la Newburg. — Place a saucepan with 1 pint of fine- 
cut cooked lobster meat over the fire, add 1 ounce butter, season 
with 1 even teaspoonful salt, a pinch of red pepper, 2 tablespoonf uls 
fine-cut truffles ; stir 3 minutes, then add 4 tablespoonfuls Madeira 
or sherry wine, cook 6 minutes ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Ya 



134 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

cupful cream and add to the lobster, stirring a few minutes and 
not letting it boil again. Then serve. 

Lol)Ster a la Citizen. — Extract the meat from 2 freshly 
boiled lobsters of 2 pounds each, and cut it into small pieces ; place 
a saucepan over the fire with 2 ounces butter, and as soon as melted 
add 6 fine-cut button mushrooms, cooking 3 minutes without 
browning ; then add the lobster meat, 1 even tablespoonful salt, 
Ys of a teaspoonful red pepper, 3 tablespoonfuls fine-cut truflBes, Yg 
pint of sherry wine, and cook 8 minutes ; mix ly^ cupful rich 
cream with the yolks of 4 eggs, add it to the lobster ; mix well 
and let it remain for few minutes over the fire, not allowing it to 
boil. Serve in a hot dish and garnish with a border of fleurons. 

Lobster Bagotlt. — Drop a 2-pound live lobster into boiling 
water, add 1 tablespoonful salt, cook 25 minutes ; then lift from 
the water and when cool enough to handle break open the shell, 
extract the meat, and cut it into small pieces. Place a saucepan 
with 1 ounce butter over the fire, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 
and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 pint boiling milk, ^4 teaspoonful nut- 
meg, 1 even teaspoonful salt, a bouquet, Yg cup of mushroom liquor, 
and 6 whole peppers, cooking 6 minutes ; then strain through a 
sieve, return sauce to saucepan, add the lobster meat and 12 small 
button mushrooms, and cook 10 minutes. In the meantime rub 
the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs fine, add a little of the lobster 
coral, Y2 teaspoonful melted butter, and 1 raw yolk ; form into 
small balls the size of a marble, roll in flour, drop into boiling 
salted water, and cook 6 minutes. Arrange the lobster on a hot 
dish, lay the egg balls around it, and garnish with fleurons or serve 
in a vol -au -vent. 

Coquilles of Lobster. — Place a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful 
butter over the fire, add 2 tablespoonfuls finely chopped white 
onion, cook 5 minutes ; then add 1 pint of fine-cut boiled lobster 
meat, 3 tablespoonfuls sherry wine, 1 teaspoonful salt, Y2 teaspoon- 
ful pepper, a little nutmeg, and 1 cupful of the sauce described be- 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 135 

low, cooking 10 minutes ; fill this mixture into 6 table shells, pour 
a little of the sauce over each one, bake 10 minutes in hot oven, 
and serve in a folded napkin. Sauce : Melt 1 ounce butter, add 1 
tablespoonf ul flour, stir, and cook 3 minutes, not letting it brown ; 
add 1 cupful veal or chicken broth, a small bouquet, 6 whole pep- 
pers, Ya teaspoonful salt, little nutmeg, also, if handy, 6 chopped 
mushrooms and a little mushroom liquor, and cook 10 minutes ; re- 
move the bouquet and use as directed above. 

Deyilled Lobster. — Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter 
and 1 fine-chopped onion over the fire, cook 3 minutes ; add Vg cup- 
ful fine-chopped mushrooms, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonf ul 
flour, stir 3 minutes ; add Yg cupful white broth, 1 teaspoonful salt, 
Y4 teaspoonful white pepper, a sprinkle of Cayenne pepper, 1 pint 
of fine-cut cooked lobster meat, stir and cook 5 minutes ; then add 
1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley, the yolks of 2 eggs ; fill this 
preparation into 6 table shells, sprinkle over a little fresh-grated 
bread crumbs and melted butter, bake in a hot oven 10 minutes, 
and serve in a napkin. 

Lobster Patties. — Prepare a creamed lobster and fill it, when 
ready to serve, into hot patty cases. 

Lobster Chops. — Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a small sauce- 
pan, add 1 fine-chopped onion and 1 crushed clove of garlic, and 
cook till onion is done ; then add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir a few 
minutes ; add 1 cup of boiling water with 1 teaspoonful beef ex- 
tract ; season with Ys teaspoonful pepper, Yg teaspoonful English 
mustard, 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, and a little Cayenne 
pepper ; cook and stir 5 minutes ; add 1 pint finely cut cooked lob- 
ster meat and Ys cupful fine-cut mushrooms, and cook 10 minutes, 
stirring often ; next add the yolks of 2 eggs and 1 whole egg, stir 
for 2 minutes over the fire; then spread the mixture on a flat dish, 
set it aside, and when cold form the preparation into round balls, 
roll in bread crumbs, dip in beaten egg, and roll again in bread 
crumbs ; form into small chops, and fry in hot fat or lard to a 



136 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

golden color. Drain them on blotting paper, put a lobster claw 
into each chop, and serve with fried parsley and Tartar sauce. 

Lobster en Vol-au-Yeilt. — Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a 
saucepan, add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and fry a few 
minutes without browning ; add lYg cupful boiling milk, stirring 
until smooth ; then add a small bouquet, 6 whole peppers ; season 
with a little grated nutmeg, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Yg cupful mush- 
room liquor, cook 10 minutes ; strain into another saucepan, return 
the sauce to fire ; add 12 small button mushrooms, cook slowly 15 
minutes ; add 1 pint cooked lobster meat, cut into inch-sized 
pieces, cook 5 minutes ; then add Yg cupful cream and the yolks of 
2 eggs, letting it get hot, but not allowing to boil ; add 12 small 
boiled sponge dumplings (described below), pour the ragout into 
the vol-au-vent, cover, and serve. 

Spokge Dumplings. — Place Y2 cup milk, 1 ounce butter 
over the fire, and as soon as boiling add Ys cupful flour, stirring 
until it forms into a smooth paste ; then turn the paste into a bowl, 
add the yolks of 2 eggs and the beaten whites, a little salt, and a very 
little nutmeg, stirring until smooth. Make a trial by dropping a 
small portion with a teaspoon into slightly salted boiling water ; if 
not firm enough, add a little dry farina ; drop the whole mixture by 
teaspoonfuls into the boiling water, cook 5 minutes, removing with 
a skimmer, and use as directed above. 

Lobster Croquettes. — Place 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped 
onion, a little bruised garlic, and 1 tablespoonful butter in a 
saucepan over the fire, and cook 6 minutes without browning ; then 
add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir 2 minutes; add 1 cup of 
chicken or veal broth, cook and stir till thick and smooth ; add 1 
even teaspoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, a little Cayenne 
pepper, 1 even teaspoonful English mustard, 1 teaspoonful fine- 
chopped parsley, Y2 cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, and 1 pint fine- 
chopped lobster meat ; stir and cook 10 minutes; then add 1 whole 
egg and the yolks of 2. Mix well, spread the mixture in a shallow 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 137 

tin pan, and set aside. When cold form the mixture into cro- 
quettes ; dip in beaten egg, cover with bread crumbs, and fry in 
boiling lard or in half butter and half lard, and serve with cream 
or bechamel sauce. 

CRABS. 

Cralb, Boiled. — Buy the crabs alive, and let them lie in cold 
water until their bath is prepared. Place a kettle with salt water 
over the fire, allowing 2 tablespoonfuls salt to 1 gallon of water, 
and as soon as boiling put in the crabs, taking one at a time on a 
shovel, or take hold of them with a pair of tongs, for if the crabs 
are large they will bite and any one not used to handling them 
might be badly hurt. The water should be boiling while the 
crabs are put in, and too many should not be boiled together. 
A good plan is to put a red-hot poker into the water after some 
have been put in. As soon as the crabs have assumed a fine-red 
color take them out with a skimmer, put in a large pan or dish, and 
let cool off. In extracting the meat, remove the upper shell from 
the under, pull off the feathery parts from the sides, and remove 
the greenish substance. These are the only portions that are un- 
eatable ; pick out all meat, crack the claws, pick the meat also from 
them, and use as directed in following recipe. 

Crab RagoAt, No. 1. — Boil 6 hard-shell crabs ; when cool enough 
to handle extract all the meat, and set aside. Prepare 12 fish force- 
meat balls, boil them in salted water ; place 12 freshly opened oys- 
ters with their liquor over the fire, boil 3 minutes, then take the 
oysters out of their liquor. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter, add 1 ta- 
blespoonf ul flour, stir and cook 3 minutes without browning ; add 1 
cupful white bouillon, Yg cupful of the oyster liquor ; season with 1 
even teaspoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful white pepper, Y2 V^^^ 
small canned mushrooms, and a small bouquet, boil 5 minutes ; re- 
move the bouquet, boil 10 minutes longer. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs 
with the juice of Y2 lemon, add it to the saucepan, adding also the 
oysters and the crab meat, and heat it till nearly boiling ; then re- 



138 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

move from fire, add 3 tablespoonfuls cream ; put the forcemeat balls 
on an oblong warm dish, pour the ragout over, and garnish with 
fillets of fish, rice, or nudle border. 

Devilled Crabs. — Drop 6 hard-shell crabs into boiling water, 
and boil 12 minutes ; remove with a skimmer, and Avhen cold open 
and pick out all the meat ; place a saucepan with 1 tablespoonf ul 
butter and 3 tablespoonfuls fine-minced white onion over the fire, 
add 1 crushed clove of garlic, and cook for 5 minutes ; add 1 cupful 
chicken or veal broth ; season with Yg teaspoonf ul salt, Yg even tea- 
spoonful English mustard, 1 cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, 1 tea- 
spoonful fine-chopped parsley, and the crab meat; stir and cook 
15 minutes ; remove to side of stove, add the yolks of 3 eggs, and 
stir a few minutes. Divide this mixture into 6 well-cleaned crab 
shells, smooth with a knife, and sprinkle over each Ys teaspoonful 
fine bread crumbs and Yg teaspoonful melted butter. Lay the shells 
on a shallow tin pan, and bake till light brown in a hot oven. Serve 
at once on a dish, garnish with water cress or parsley, or serve in 
the folds of a napkin. 

SOFT-SHELL CRABS. 

Li season from May till October. Tlie soft-shell crabs are nothing 
more than hard-shell crabs after shedding their shell. 

Soft-shell Crabs, Fried. — Eemove the spongy substance and 
the sand bags from the sides, wash, wipe dry, drop them into 
boiling lard, and fry light brown ; take them out with a per- 
forated skimmer, sprinkle a little fine salt all over, and serve hot, 
garnished with fried parsley, or the crabs may be dipped in beaten 
egg and rolled in cracker dust, then fried ; some prefer to dip them 
in a batter made the same as for Clams Fried in Batter. 

Soft-sliell Crabs a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Clean, wash well, 
and wipe dry 6 soft-shell crabs; brush over with melted butter or 
oil, season with 1 even tablespoonf ul salt, Ys even teaspoonful pepper; 
put them on a broiler, and broil over a clear fire about 5 minutes 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 139 

on each side. Serve at once on a hot dish on buttered toast with 1 
ounce maitre d'hotel butter spread over. In place of toast, 6 small 
slices of bread fried in butter may be laid under the crabs. 

FEOGS. 

In season tJie year round ; they are co7isidered lest from June to 
October. 

Frogs, Fried. — Season 12 well-cleaned frog legs with 1 table- 
spoonful salt, let lie Yg hour ; then dust with flour, dip in beaten 
egg, and roll in bread crumbs; fry in hot fat to a fine color, and 
serve with Tartar sauce a I'allemande. 

Frogs a I'Espagnole.— Season 12 frog legs with 1 tablespoon- 
ful seasoning salt, put into a dish with the juice of 1 lemon, and let 
lie 1 hour ; then place a saucepan with 2 ounces butter over the fire, 
add 1 fine-chopped onion, a small clove of crushed garlic, Yg fine- 
chopped green pepper, cook 5 minutes ; add the frogs, cover and 
cook 10 minutes ; add 3 fine-cut ripe tomatoes and Ys cupful small 
mushrooms, cover and cook till tender. Serve with boiled rice. If 
mushrooms are not at hand they may be omitted. 

Frogs a la Poulette. — Season 12 well-cleaned and washed 
frogs with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt. Melt 2 ounces butter in 
a low, wide saucepan, put in the frogs, add 4 tablespoonfuls white 
wine, cover and cook till done without browning. Place a small 
saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the fire, add 1 tablespoonful flour, 
cook 3 minutes ; add lYs cupful white broth, Y4 cupful mushroom 
liquor, a small bouquet, and 1 even teaspooufulsalt; boil 5 minutes ; 
remove the bouquet ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with the juice of Ys 
lemon, draw the saucepan from the flre, add slowly the yolks and 
lastly 2 tablespoonfuls cream ; dress the frogs on a hot dish, pour 
the sauce over, and garnish with toasted bread or croutons. 

Frogs fried in Batter. — Prepare the frogs as in foregoing 
recipe ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Ys cupful milk, 2 tablespoon- 
10 



140 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

f uls flour, a little butter and salt, adding lastly the beaten whites ; 
dip the frogs into this batter, and fry in boiling fat to a fine color, 
a few at a time. Serve with tomato sauce, sauce a I'allemande, or 
Tartar sauce. 

Frogs broiled a la Maitre d'Hotel.— Procure 12 large well- 
cleaned fresh frogs, wash and wipe well ; mix 1 tablesj)oonful salt 
with Ys teaspoonful pepper, sprinkle this over the frogs, adding the 
juice of 1 lemon ; lay them with 1 sliced onion in a covered dish, 
also some fresh parsley and 2 sprigs of thyme, cover and let stand 1 
hour, then dry on a soft clean towel, brush them over with the 
butter or oil, lay the frogs on a broiler and broil over medium hot 
fire 5 minutes on each side ; dress them on a hot dish, spread 2 
ounces maitre d'hotel butter over, and serve. 

TERRAPIN. 

In season from November to May. 

Terrapin— How to prepare and cook. — Plunge a live ter- 
rapin into boiling water, boil 2 minutes ; then remove the small 
white skin on the head and feet, return it to the boiling water 
and cook about 40 minutes (to know when they are done, press 
the feet between the fingers and if they feel soft to the touch 
they are done) ; remove, and when cold cut off the nails, break 
the shell on the flat side, removing it from the meat ; empty out 
all the insides, carefully removing the gall bag from the liver, 
also the white inside muscle and tail; separate the legs at their 
joints, and divide into small pieces, throwing away head, tail, 
entrails, claws, muscle, gall, and bladder ; cut the liver into slices, 
put it with the eggs and the terrapin meat in a saucepan ; add 
sufficient boiling water to nearly cover the terrapin ; season with 
salt and a little Cayenne pepper, and cook 10 minutes ; then put 
aside in a cool place, and use as directed in the following recipes. 

Terrapin a la Maryland. — Place 1 pint of cooked and pre- 
pared terrapin in a saucepan, add Vj tablespoonful butter, 3 table- 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 141 

spoonfuls sherry wine, 1 even teaspoonful salt, a little Cayenne pep- 
per, cook 5 minutes, rub fine the yolks of 3 or 4 hard-boiled eggs, 
mix with 1 cupful rich sweet cream, add to the terrapin, cook 5 
minutes, and serve. 

Terrapin a la Newlburg. — Place 1 pint of cooked terrapin 
with 2 fine-cut truffles in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful butter, 
1 even teaspoonful salt, a little Cayenne pepper, and 3 tablespoonf uls 
sherry wine ; cook 6 minutes ; mix the yolks of 3 eggs with 1 cupful 
cream, add it to the terrapin, stir a few minutes over the fire, then 
serve. 

Terrapin a la Brooklyn Hamilton Club.— Procure 2 ter- 
rapins, each one 3 pounds in weight, boil and prepare as directed. 
Place 1 fine-chopped onion in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine- 
cut carrots, a little celery, 6 coarsely pounded peppers, a bouquet, 1 
tablespoonful butter, cook and stir 6 minutes ; then add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, and stir 2 minutes ; add lYg cupful white broth, 1 
even teaspoonful salt, Yg of a teaspoonful Cayenne pepper, Yg cupful 
sherry wine, Ys cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, a little mushroom 
liquor, Y2 teaspoonful beef extract, and boil 10 m.inutes ; strain into 
a clean saucepan, add the fine-cut prepared terrapin meat, and 
cook 5 minutes ; add the juice of Ys lemon and serve. 

Terrapin Morensi. — Place 1 pint of boiled and prepared ter- 
rapin in a saucepan, cover with sweet cream, season with 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, a little Cayenne pepper, cook 5 minutes ; mix Y2 
tablespoonful butter with 1 teaspoonful cornstarch, add to the 
terrapin, stir and cook 2 minutes ; then serve. 

SCALLOPS. 

hi season from Septemher to April ; generally sold ready for frying 
in our markets. 

Scallops, Fried. — Wipe the scallops with a clean towel, dust 
with flour, dip each into beaten ^gg^ and roll in bread crumbs ; 
drop into hot lard or fat, and fry to a delicate brown color, a few at 



142 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

a time ; remove from the hot lard on to an upturned sieve or paper, 
sprinkle over a little salt, and serve. 

Scallops a la Mariniere. — Place 1 pint of scallops in a cov- 
ered dish, season with 1 teaspoonful seasoning salt, the juice of 1 
lemon, 1 fine-chopped onion, and 2 tablespoonfuls olive oil ; mix 
well with the scallops, cover and let them marinate 1 hour, then 
remove, roll in cracker dust, and fry in hot fat ; serve on a warm 
dish, garnished with parsley. 

Scallops on Toast. — Season 1 pint scallops with 1 teaspoonful 
seasoning salt, add the juice of 1 lemon, let them marinate 1 hour ; 
then dip in milk and roll in cracker dust, fry in hot fat to a fine 
color ; divide the scallops on 6 pieces of buttered toast. At the 
same time fry 1 fine-cut onion in 1 ounce butter 5 minutes ; add Yg 
can tomatoes, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, ^/g teaspoon- 
ful pepper, cook 20 minutes ; then strain ; add the yolks of 2 eggs, 
pour the tomatoes over the scallops, and serve. 

Deyilled Scallops. — Put 1 pint of scallops in a saucepan, add 
Yg pint white yine and Y3 cupful mushroom liquor, cook 5 minutes ; 
then drain the scallops and chop fine. Place a saucepan with 1 
ounce butter over the fire, add 1 fine-chopped onion, cook 5 min- 
utes ; add Y2 cupful chopped mushrooms, 1 teaspoonful seasoning 
salt, Ys teaspoonful nutmeg, a little Cayenne pepper, cook 5 minutes ; 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir a few minutes ; add ^4 cupful of the 
scallop broth, cook 3 minutes ; add the chopped scallops, stir and 
cook 5 minutes. Fill this preparation in clean scallop shells, 
smooth over with a knife, sprinkle over some fresh grated bread 
crumbs and melted butter, bake light brown in a hot oven. Serve 
on a napkin with some fresh parsley in the center. 

EELS. 

Seasonable all the year. 

Fried Eels. — Cut 2 pounds well-cleaned eels into 2-inch 
lengths, season with 1 tablespoonful salt, and set aside 1 hour. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 143 

Shortly before serving wipe the pieces dry with a clean towel, and 
roll them in flour. Cut Yg pound larding pork into fine pieces, 
place in a frying pan over the fire, fry until it begins to turn light 
brown, pour half of the pork into a small saucepan, lay as many eel 
pieces in the remaining pork in pan as will conveniently go in ; fry 
to a delicate brown on all sides till well done, adding more of the 
pork as the frying continues. When they are all fried arrange them 
on a warm dish, and serve either with baked or Lyonnaise potatoes. 

Eels a la Tartare. — Cut 2 pounds well-cleaned eels into 
lengths of 3 inches, sprinkle IY2 tablespoonful salt over, and let 
stand Ya hour. Place a saucepan with 3 pints of water over the 
fire, add 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 onion cut into slices, a few slices 
of carrot, a bouquet, and 6 whole peppers ; when beginning to boil 
put in the eel pieces, let come to a boil again ; draw the saucepan 
to side of stove and simmer 5 minutes ; then remove and set aside 
to cool. Fifteen minutes before serving take the eels from the 
broth, wipe dry, dip into melted butter, then roll in fresh grated 
bread crumbs, lay on a broiler and broil over a clear moderate fire • 
till light brown on both sides. Arrange them on an oval-shaped 
dish, garnish with parsley, and serve with Tartar sauce. 

Eels Mariniere. — Cut 2 pounds well-cleaned fresh eels into > 
3-inch lengths ; season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt ; lay in 
a covered dish with 1 onion cut into slices, 2 sprigs of parsley, 1 
sprig of thyme, and the juice of 1 lemon ; cover and let stand for 1 
hour. Thirty minutes before serving wipe dry, and dust each piece 
of eel lightly with flour, dip into beaten egg, then roll in fresh 
grated bread or cracker crumbs. Place a frying pan with 1 table- 
spoonful lard or fat over the fire, add Ys tablespoonful butter ; as 
soon as hot put in as many eel pieces as will conveniently go in, 
and fry to a delicate brown. In the meantime peel 6 medium-sized 
potatoes, cut each one lengthwise into 6 pieces, wash and wipe dry ; 
place a kettle with IY2 pound fat over the fire ; as soon as hot put 
in one third of the potato pieces, let fry until brown and done, then 



144 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

remove to blotting or brown paper ; fry the remaining potatoes 
same way. When ready to serve arrange the eels on to a warm 
dish, and lay the potatoes around them, sprinkle 1 teaspoonful 
chopped parsley over all, and serve. 

Eel Farci. — Skin and clean 2 large eels, cut off head and tail, 
split open the back, remove the bones, and spread the eels flat on 
the table ; season each with 1 teaspoonful of seasoning salt. Then 
prepare a fish forcemeat, as follows : Place a saucepan with Yg cup 
cream over the fire ; when boiling add 2 tablespoonf uls flour, stir 
until it forms into a smooth paste ; then remove ; add gradually 1 
whole egg and 1 yolk, stir until smooth ; when cold mix with Yg 
pound finely pounded pike or bass meat, Ya cupful fine-cut boiled 
tongue, 2 fine-cut truffles, 1 teaspoonful seasoning salt, 1 ounce 
butter, Y4 teaspoonful nutmeg ; spread this forcemeat over the eels, 
roll up and cover with thin slices of larding pork ; inclose each one 
separately in a clean napkin, tie the napkin on each end and in the 
center with tape ; lay them on a grating in a fish kettle, cover with 
Ys bottle Rhine wine and white broth ; add Ys tablespoonful salt, a 
bouquet, 2 sliced onions, and 12 whole peppers; place the kettle 
over the fire ; as soon as it boils draw the kettle to side of stove ; let 
simmer 40 minutes ; remove, and let the eels cool in the broth ; 
then take them out, remove the napkin, cut the eels into slices, and 
lay them in their original form in a baking pan ; strain the broth 
into a saucepan, place it over the fire, and reduce it to half glaze 
by boiling ; then add the broth to the eels ; place the pan in the 
oven, baste often ; let the eels heat through and glaze. In the 
meantime place 1 cupful parboiled rice in a saucepan ; add 3 cup- 
fuls milk or white broth, 1 ounce butter, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 
boil until done. When ready to serve, put the rice on a warm dish, 
place the eels on top of it, and serve ; or arrange the eels in a circle 
around the dish, and put in the center an oyster ragotit. 

Eels in Beer. — Cut 2 pounds well-cleaned eels into 2-inch 
lengths, season with 1 heaping tablespoonful salt, mix well with the 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 145 

salt, place for 1 hour in a bowl. Put the eels in a saucepan, cover 
with boiling water, let them lie 2 minutes ; then drain in a sieve 
and pour over some cold water. Eeturn the eels in a saucepan to 
the fire, cover with beer ; add 2 fine-cut onions, 1 bay leaf, 2 cloves, 
12 whole peppers, 1 lemon cut into slices and freed from the pits ; 
when beginning to boil draw the saucepan to side of stove, and let 
simmer 10 minutes; then remove the eels. Mix 1 tablespoonful 
butter with Yg tablespoonful flour, add it to the sauce ; add Yg table- 
spoonful sugar, cook and stir 3 minutes ; then strain the sauce into 
another saucepan, add the eels, set for a few minutes over the fire, 
and serve with boiled potatoes. 

Eels a la Normande. — Cut lYs pound well-cleaned eels into 
pieces 2 inches long ; place them in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful 
salt, Ys teapoonf ul pepper, 2 onions cut into slices, 1 bay leaf, and 
2 sprigs of parsley ; cover with IY4 cup white vinegar or Y2 cup white 
wine and 3 pints cold water; set the saucepan over the fire; as 
soon as it commences to boil draw the saucepan to side of stove, let 
it simmer (not boil) 10 minutes. At the same time place a sauce- 
pan with 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire ; add 1 tablespoonful 
flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 cupful white broth, Ys cupful 
mushroom liquor, and Ys cupful of the eel broth ; cook 5 minutes ; 
mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Ys cupful cream, add it slowly to the 
sauce, not letting it boil again ; after the yolks have been added add 
the juice of Ys lemon and Ys teaspoonf ul beef extract and Ys table- 
spoonful butter in small pieces ; lay the eels in a warm dish, pour 
over the sauce, and serve with small potato dumplings. 

Eels in Jelly. — Cut lYs pound shank of veal into small pieces, 
place them in a saucepan over the fire, cover with cold water ; add 
1 teaspoonful salt ; when beginning to boil, add 2 onions and a 
bouquet, cover and boil till the meat falls from the bones. In the 
meantime cut 2 pounds medium-sized eels into 3-inch lengths, 
season with 2 tablespoonf uls salt ; mix well together with the salt, 
and set for 1 hour in a cool place ; then put into a saucepan, and 



146 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

cover with boiling water ; after 2 minutes drain the eels in a sieve 
and rinse off with cold water ; when the veal is done, strain the broth 
through a napkin ; place the eels in a saucepan, add IY2 pint of the 
veal broth, Y2 pint white vinegar, 4 whole cloves, 1 bay leaf, 12 whole 
peppers, 1 onion cut into slices, Vs tablespoonf ul sugar, set the sauce- 
pan over the fire, and boil slowly till done — about 10 minutes ; re- 
move the eels, lay in a dish or bowl large enough to hold them. Beat 
the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth, add the juice of 1 lemon and a lit- 
tle cold water, stir this into the broth, continue the stirring, and boil 
5 minutes ; then draw the saucepan to side of stove. Place a small 
sieve over another saucepan, set the saucepan in a vessel of hot 
water over the fire, lay a napkin inside the sieve, pour the broth 
through it, a little at a time ; when strained, pour over the eels and 
set in a cool place. Serve cold with mayonnaise or remolade. 

Eels with. Oysters. — Cut 1 pound eels into pieces two inches 
in length, season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, let stand Y2 hour ; 
place in a saucepan, cover with boiling water ; add 1 onion, 2 slices 
of carrot, a bouquet, 6 whole peppers, and 3 tablespoonfuls white 
vinegar ; when beginning to boil, draw to side of stove ; let simmer 
10 minutes. At the same time place 1 pint of large oysters, with 
some of their liquor, over the fire, add the juice of Yg lemon, Y2 table- 
spoonful butter, Ys teaspoonful seasoning salt, boil 2 minutes ; then 
remove. Melt 1 ounce butter in another saucepan, add 1 heaping 
tablespoonful flour, stir 3 minutes ; add 1 cupful of the eel broth 
and the broth in which the oysters were cooked ; add Y2 teaspoonful 
beef extract, Ys cupful white broth or water, cook 5 minutes ; mix 
the yolks of 2 eggs with 1 tablespoonful lemon juice ; add it slowly 
to the sauce, not letting it boil again ; add last 3 tablespoonfuls 
cream or milk ; lift the eels from the broth, drain on a sieve, add 
with the oysters to the sauce ; toss the whole for a few minutes over 
the fire ; then pour it over 6 small slices of buttered toast. In place 
of toast, small potato dumplings boiled in salted water and sauted 
brown in butter may be served with the dish. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 14Y 

Eels a la Matelote. — Out 2 pounds well- cleaned medium-sized, 
eels into 2-incli pieces, sprinkle over 1 heaping tablespoonful salt ; 
mix salt and eels well together ; put in a saucepan and. let stand 1 
hour ; then place the saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling 
water, let simmer 3 minutes ; remove the eels and drain on a sieve. 
Place another saucepan with Yg pint red wine over the fire, add lYg 
pint of white broth, 1 onion cut into slices, a bouquet, and 12 whole 
peppers, boil 5 minutes, then add the eels ; draw the saucepan to 
side of stove and simmer 10 minutes. At the same time melt 2 
ounces butter in a saucepan, add lYg tablespoonful flour, stir 3 minutes ; 
remove the eels from the saucepan to a warm dish ; strain the broth, 
add it to the flour and butter, add Ys can of small mushrooms, 
and cook 15 minutes ; add Ys teaspoonf ul beef extract, and if neces- 
sary a little seasoning salt. Arrange the eels, 12 small cooked 
white onions, and 12 fish forcemeat balls on a round or oval- 
shaped dish ; lay in a circle 6 small slices of buttered toast or 
bread croutons around the edge of dish, pour over the sauce, 
and serve. 

Eels, Collared. — Clean and split 1 large eel on the back and 
remove the bones, head, and tail, wash and sprinkle with salt, and 
set the eel aside for Ys hour. Cut 3 hard-boiled eggs, also 2 small 
pickles, in small strips, and add a little fine-cut beet, 1 tablespoon- 
ful capers, Ys teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley and tarragon, 2 
small grated onions, and 3 fine-chopped anchovies without skin and 
bones. Mix these ingredients well together, dry the eels with a 
cloth, spread out on the table and put the mixture over it, 
sprinkle a little pepper over, roll up ; wrap up in a cloth, and tie 
with tape ; boil in half water and half vinegar with a little salt, 2 
onions, and a bouquet Ys hour. When done take out the eel, lay 
between 2 boards, place a weight on top, and press until cold ; then 
take it out, remove the tape and cloth, and if not used at once, lay 
it back into the liquor in which it was boiled. When ready to 
serve, cut it into slices and serve with remolade sauce. 



148 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

Eels — How to smoke. — Take medium-sized eels, clean and 
leave the skins on, wash, dry, and rub each one with a little salt 
(care must be taken not to take too much salt), and set in a cool 
place for 24 hours ; turn them twice during that time. Put a stick 
through the eyes, hang about 10 eels on the stick over a barrel 
without a bottom, cover it with thick, coarse sack linen ; place the 
barrel over a pan of burning charcoal (sawdust must be put on the 
top of the burning coal, so as to make a good smoke), and let the 
eels smoke about 3 days, according to size. 

Smoked Eels, Broiled. — Cut large smoked eels into pieces 3 
inches in length ; place them on a broiler over a clear fire ; broil 3 
minutes on each side. Serve with cut lemons. 

SMELTS. 

In season from the middle of August to the middle of April. 

Smelts fried in Pork. — Clean, wash, and wipe dry ly^ 
pound smelts, remove the heads ; season the fish with 1 even table- 
spoonful of seasoning salt ; roll in flour ; cut 6 ounces larding pork 
into small pieces, place it in a frying pan, and fry till it begins to 
turn a delicate brown ; then pour half the pork in a small saucepan 
and keep it in a warm place ; lay as many smelts in the remaining 
pork in pan as can conveniently go in ; fry light brown first on one 
side, then turn and fry the other side, adding more of the pork in 
saucepan as the frying continues. When all are fried, arrange them 
nicely on a warm dish, garnish with parsley and 1 lemon cut into 
lengthwise pieces ; serve with Lyonnaise potatoes. In place of pork 
lard or beef fat may be taken. 

Smelts a la Dresden. — Clean, wash, and wipe dry 18 large 
smelts, split them down through the back, remove the backbones, 
and season with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt. Stuff the 
smelts with fish forcemeat, close and give them their original shape 
again ; lay in a buttered dish, sprinkle over 1 tablespoonful fine- 
chopped onion and 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice; add 3 table- 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 149 

spoonfuls white wine, Yg cupful white broth, and pour 1 ounce 
melted butter over them ; place in a moderate oven, baste frequent- 
ly, and bake till done. In the meantime melt 1 tablespoonful but- 
,ter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir for a few minutes ; 
add % piiit white broth and the gravy from the smelts, 3 table- 
spoonfuls mushroom liquor, boil 5 minutes ; then strain into a clean 
saucepan. Mix the yolks of 3 eggs with Yg cupful cream, add it 
slowly to the sauce, also Y2 tablespoonful lemon juice and Y4 tea- 
spoonful seasoning salt, and a little beef extract ; let the sauce get 
hot but do not allow it to boil. Arrange the smelts nicely on a hot 
dish, pour a little of the sauce over each one, and serve the remain- 
ing sauce in a sauce bowl ; garnish the dish with potatoes a la 
patricia, or serve plain boiled potatoes with it. 

Smelts, Broiled. — Clean, wash, and wipe dry lYs pound of 
large smelts, season with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt, let lie 
Y2 hour ; then dip each smelt into melted butter, roll in fresh grated 
bread crumbs, place on a broiler over a moderate fire, and broil 5 
minutes on each side. Arrange on a warm dish and garnish with 
water cress. Stir 2 ounces butter to a cream, add slowly 2 table- 
spoonfuls lemon juice, 1 even teaspoonful nutmeg, and 1 table- 
spoonful very fine-chopped parsley ; spread this over the fish, and 
serve with French fried potatoes. 

Smelts a la Bremoise.— Procure 18 large smelts, clean and 
wash the fish, remove the eyes from the head, split the fish up the 
back, and remove the backbone ; season with 1 teaspoonful season- 
ing salt ; lay in a covered dish with 1 sliced onion, 1 sprig of thyme, 
the juice of 1 lemon, and some fresh parsley ; cover and let stand 1 
hour. In the meantime put the yolks of 3 eggs into a small bowl, 
add Y4 teaspoonful salt, Ys cupful milk, and 3 tablespoonfuls flour ; 
stir this to a smooth batter. Melt Y2 tablespoonful butter, add it 
to the batter, and the 3 whites beaten to a stiff froth. Place a 
kettle or a deep frying pan over the fire with IY2 pound fat or 
lard ; when hot, take each smelt separately on a larding needle, 



150 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

dip into the batter, then drop it into the boiling fat (put in about 
3 or 4 at a time), fry light brown on both sides, lay them a few 
minutes on a blotting paper to absorb the grease; when all are 
fried in this^ way arrange them on a hot dish. Wash and dry on a 
towel 1 handful fresh parsley, remove the stems, drop the parsley 
into the hot fat, fry 2 minutes ; then remove it with a skimmer, 
lay it a few minutes on blotting paper, sprinkle over some salt, lay 
this around the smelts, and serve with sauce Tartare. 

Smelts Mariniere. — Clean, wash, and wipe V-J^ pound smelts, 
season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, sprinkle over the juice of 1 
lemon, lay the fish in a covered dish with 1 onion cut into slices, 1 
sprig of thyme, and 3 sprigs of parsley; cover and let stand V2 
hour ; then remove and wipe dry with a clean towel, dust lightly 
with flour, dip each smelt into beaten egg, then roll in fresh 
grated bread crumbs, and fry light brown in hot lard. Arrange 
the smelts on a warm dish, garnish with parsley, serve with 2 
ounces melted butter to which the juice of Yg lemon and 1 tea- 
spoonful fine-chopped parsley have been added ; serve peeled boiled 
potatoes and lettuce salad with it. 

FLOUNDERS AND SOLE. 

Flounders and its Species. — A flat fish of the family Pleuro- 
nedidcB or PlanidcB, which also includes halibut, sole, and turbot 
This family, containing 150 species, is generally found in shallow 
waters where the bottom is sandy; but the halibut and turbot are 
caught in deep waters. The common flounder of Massachusetts 
varies in length from 10 to 22 inches. This species is considered 
excellent for the table ; the flesh is white and firm, and is in good 
condition all the year except in February and March, when spawn- 
ing. They are abundant in summer and autumn on the coast of 
New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Flounders are mostly prepared 
like fillet of sole. 

Fillet of Sole or Flounders— How to prepare.— Place the 
fish on a table with the white side under, cut off the head, remove 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 151 

the gills and entrails ; then make a cut straight down the back 
from the head to the tail, make with a knife a slight incision at 
the tail part large enough to get hold of the brown skin ; with the 
thumb and forefinger of the left hand, and a knife in the right 
hand placed on the tail bone, tear off the skin with one stroke ; cut 
off with a scissors the small bones on the outside, make a straight 
incision on the white skin side to the middle bone, then separate 
the meat from the bones. This meat is called the fillets, each fish 
having 4 fillets ; the fillets, if large, are cut in two, and if small 
are left whole. 

Fillet of Flounder a la Berlinoise. — Season the fillets of 2 
medium-sized flounders, each one weighing about lYa pound, with 
pepper and salt, sprinkle over the juice of 1 lemon ; lay them in a 
covered dish with 1 large onion cut into slices, Yg bunch of parsley, 
and 2 sprigs of thyme ; cover the dish, and let it stand 1 hour. Twenty 
minutes before serving mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Yg cup milk, 
add Y* teaspoonful salt, 2 heaping tablespoonfuls flour, Ys table- 
spoonful melted butter, and stir to a smooth batter ; then add the 
whites previously beaten to a stiff froth. Wipe the fillets dry with 
a clean towel, dip each piece separately into the batter, then drop 
into boiling fat and fry light brown on both sides, continuing until 
all are fried. Lay the fish for a few minutes on blotting paper, 
then arrange them on a warm dish, and serve with boiled potatoes 
and sauce described below. 

Sauce. — Place a small saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter 
over the fire, add 1 fine-chopped onion, and cook until the onion 
begins to turn a delicate brown ; then strain ; then add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 cupful soup stock or 
1 cupful water with 1 teaspoonful beef extract, Ys cupful mushroom 
liquor, Yi teaspoonful pepper, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful 
vinegar, cook 5 minutes ; add 2 tablespoonfuls French mustard, and 
serve. 

Fillet of Flounder a la Yiennoise. — Remove the fillets 
from 2 flounders, each weighing about Y4 pound, season 6 fillets with 



152 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

pepper and salt, chop the remaining 2 very fine ; set aside. Melt 1 
tablespoonful butter in a small saucepan, add 1 fine-chopped onion, 
cook 3 minutes ; then add Yg cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, cook 
5 minutes ; remove from fire, add 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped pars- 
ley and 1 even teaspoonful seasoning salt, also the fine-chopped 
fillet. Place Y2 cup water and Y2 teaspoonful butter over the fire ; 
as soon as it boils add 2 tablespoonf uls flour, stir until it forms into 
a smooth paste ; remove from fire, add 1 well-beaten egg, stir until 
perfectly smooth ; add the above preparation and Yi teaspoonful 
salt; cover each fillet with a thin layer of this forcemeat, roll up, 
and set close together in a buttered pan ; sprinkle over 2 tablespoon- 
f uls lemon Juice and 2 ounces melted butter ; set the pan in a hot 
oven and bake till done — about 15 minutes. Eemove the rolls to a 
warm dish, add Ys tablespoonful flour to the butter in which the 
rolls were baked, stir a few minutes, add 1 cup white broth and a 
small bouquet, 2 tablespoonfuls mushroom liquor, Y* teaspoonful 
seasoning salt, boil 5 minutes ; then remove the bouquet. Mix the 
yolk of 1 egg with 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, add it slowly to the 
sauce, add Y2 tablespoonful butter in small pieces, and a little beef 
extract. 

Fillet of Sole or Flounder a la Yenitienne.— Wash and 

wipe dry the fillets from 2 medium-sized flounders, mix 1 even 
tablespoonful salt with Y2 teaspoonful pepper, sprinkle over the 
fillets, and fold each one double ; place in a baking pan, sprinkle 
over the juice of 1 lemon, and pour over 2 ounces melted butter; 
set the pan in a hot oven, and bake from 10 to 15 minutes ; as soon 
as done, remove the fillets to a long flat dish, cover with buttered 
paper, and lay a light weight over them. "When cold mix the yolks 
of 2 eggs with 1 ounce melted butter, dip each fillet separately into 
the yolk and butter, and roll in fresh grated bread crumbs ; lay on a 
broiler and broil to a delicate brown on both sides. Arrange the 
fillets in a circle around a warm dish, and put a lobster ragout in 
the center. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 153 

Fillet of Sole or Flounders a la Normande.— Season the 

fillets of 2 medium-sized flounders with pepper and salt, make a 
slight incision across the middle of each fillet, fold them double, 
lay them in a baking pan, and sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls lemon 
juice and 2 ounces melted butter. Fifteen minutes before serving 
place the pan in a hot oven and bake till done — about 10 minutes. 
Arrange the fillet in a circle on a warm dish, pour a little of the 
sauce from the ragout mentioned below over the fillets, sprinkle 
over 3 tablespoonfuls fried bread crumbs, place the dish for a few 
minutes in the oven ; pour the oyster ragout in the center, and 
serve. 

Eagout of Oysters. — Place a saucepan with 1 quart large 
oysters over the fire, let come to a boil, lift out with a skimmer, lay 
on a dish, remove the beards, and set the oysters aside. Melt 2 
ounces butter in a saucepan, add IY2 tablespoonful flour, stir and 
cook 2 minutes, add Yg pint white broth, Y2 pint of the oyster liquor, 
Ys can mushrooms, 2 tablespoonfuls white wine, 1 even teaspoonful 
salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cook 15 minutes ; then draw the sauce- 
pan to side of stove. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with the juice of Ys 
lemon, add it slowly to the sauce ; add the oysters, let it get hot, but 
not boil. Prepare also 12 fish forcemeat balls, boil in salted water, 
lay in center of dish, pour the oyster ragout over it, and serve. 

Fillet of Flounder ^ la Fran^aise. — Eemove the fillets 
from 2 medium-sized flounders, season with 1 even tablespoonful 
salt, fold the fillets double, and lay them in a small buttered baking 
pan ; sprinkle over 1 fine-chopped onion and Y2 cupful fine-chopped 
mushrooms ; add Y2 cupful white wine ; set the pan aside for Ys 
hour. Place the bones, head, and skin of the fish in a sauce- 
pan, cover with cold water, add a few slices of carrot, 1 sliced 
onion, 6 whole peppers, 1 even teaspoonful salt, and a bouquet, boil 
20 minutes; then strain through a napkin; add sufficient of this 
broth to cover the fillets. Place the pan over the fire, as soon as it 
commences to boil set in the oven, cook slowly 8 minutes ; when 



154: SEA FOOD, Etc. 

done remove the fillets with a skimmer to a warm dish, and strain 
the broth. Melt 1 tablespoonf ul butter in a saucepan ; add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir 3 minutes ; then add Yg cupful of the fish broth, 
Ya cupful white broth, 1 cupful oyster liquor, cook 5 minutes ; mix 
the yolks of 2 eggs, with the juice of Y2 lemon, add it sloAvly to the 
sauce, draw the saucepan to side of stove, and add Yg tablespoonf ul 
butter in small pieces. Place 1 dozen large oysters without their 
liquor in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonf ul lemon juice, Ys even tea- 
spoonful seasoning salt, cook 2 minutes ; add Ys pint shrimp tails, 
pour over a few spoonfuls of the sauce, and keep warm. Arrange 
the fillets nicely on a round or oval-shaped hot dish and lay the 
oysters and shrimps in a circle around them, pour the sauce over, 
and serve. 

Fillet of Sole with Tartar Sauce. — Procure the fillets from 
2 soles, each weighing about IY2 pound, wash and wipe them dry 
with a clean towel, season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, 
equally distributed over each fillet ; lay them in a covered dish with 
1 sliced onion, 3 sprigs of parsley, 1 sprig of thyme, and the juice 
of 1 lemon or lime ; cover and let it stand Y2 hour. Twenty min- 
utes before serving wipe the fillets dry with a towel and dust lightly 
with flour ; crack 2 eggs in a bowl and beat until light, take each 
fillet on a fork, dip first into the beaten egg, then roll into grated 
bread crumbs ; when all are prepared in this way place a frying 
pan with 2 tablespoonf uls lard or fat over the fire ; as soon as hot 
put in as many fillets as will conveniently lie in the pan without 
crowding each other ; fry light brown on both sides ; arrange the 
fillets on a warm dish and serve with Tartar sauce. 

Fillet of Sole Farci. — Eemove the fillets from 2 medium- 
sized soles or flounders, season 6 fillets with pepper and salt, and 
set the remaining 2 aside for forcemeat. Place a small saucepan 
with Ys cup water and Y2 teaspoonful butter over the fire ; as soon as 
it begins to boil add 2 tablespoonfuls flour, stir to a smooth paste, 
then remove from fire ; add 1 well-beaten egg, stir until smooth, 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 155 

then set aside to cool ; fry 1 fine-chopped onion in 1 ounce butter 3 
minutes, add 6 fine-chopped mushrooms, cook and stir a few min- 
utes longer; season with 1 teaspoonful seasoning salt. Eemove 
from fire, add Yg tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley, add the paste, 
and mix all well together ; then add the 2 fillets, previously finely 
chopped, add Y2 teaspoonful salt and a little pepper ; spread a thin 
layer of this forcemeat over each fillet, fold them double, with the 
forcemeat inside, lay in a buttered baking pan, pour over the juice of 
Ys lemon, and sprinkle over 2 ounces melted butter. Place them in 
a hot oven, to bake from 10 to 15 minutes ; then remove the fillets 
carefully to a long, flat dish, cover with buttered paper, lay a light 
weight over them, and let stand till cold. Fifteen minutes before 
serving mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 1 ounce melted butter, dip the 
fillets first in the yolks and butter, then in fresh grated bread 
crumbs, lay on a broiler and broil over a moderate clear fire, light 
brown on both sides. Serve with oyster sauce, or arrange the fillets 
in a circle around the dish and pour a lobster or crab ragout in the 
center. 

Flounders Farcis a la Messalina.— Procure the fillets from 
2 medium-sized flounders, chop 2 fillets very fine, and season the re- 
maining 6 with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt ; lay them in a 
covered dish, with 1 sliced onion, a sprig of thyme, 3 sprigs of 
parsley, and the juice of 1 lemon ; cover the dish, and let it stand 1 
hour. Mix the 2 fine-chopped fillets with Ya cupful fresh grated 
bread crumbs, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 well beaten egg, Ys grated 
onion, 2 tablespoonfuls cream, and 1 teaspoonful seasoning salt. 
Twenty minutes before serving wipe the fillets dry, spread a thin layer 
of the forcemeat over each fillet, fold double, so that the forcemeat is 
between them ; insert a crawfish claw in the pointed edge of each 
fillet ; lay in a buttered pan, add 3 tablespoonfuls Rhine wine, pour 
2 ounces of melted butter over the fillets and the juice of half a lemon ; 
cover with buttered paper, set the pan in a hot oveu, and bake till 
done ; then carefully remove the fillets to a warm dish ; put a bunch 
11 



156 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

of fried parsley in the center, arrange the fillets around it, and 
around the fillets lay fried tomatoes (see Tomatoes) ; add to the fish 
gravy Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes; add 1 cup of 
boiling water, 3 tablespoonfuls cream, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, 
cook 5 minutes ; mix the yolk of 1 egg with Y2 tablespoonful lemon 
juice, add it slowly to the sauce ; add lastly Y2 tablespoonful of 
butter in small pieces, y^ teaspoonful seasoning salt, and serve. In 
place of this sauce, a tomato or Robert sauce may be served with the 
fillets. 

Flounders, Fried.— Select 2 medium-sized flounders, clean, 
wash and wipe them dry, season each one with Y^ tablespoonful sea- 
soning salt, remove the head and tail, make 2 incisions on the brown- 
skin side, and roll the fish in flour. Cut 4 ounces larding pork into 
small pieces, place in a frying pan over the fire, and fry light 
brown ; put in the fish and fry till done and light brown on both 
sides, serve on a hot dish, and garnish with 1 lemon cut lengthwise 
into 6 pieces. Serve with mustard sauce or melted butter and 
boiled or baked potatoes. Another way is to cut the fish into 3 or 4 
pieces, season it with salt, and dust lightly with flour ; then dip in 
beaten egg and roll in cracker crumbs ; fry in hot lard or half lard 
and half butter. 

HALIBUT. 

In season the year round. 

Halibut a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Procure 2 thin slices of halibut 
weighing 2 pounds ; cut each slice into 3 pieces, remove the bone in 
center, and the skin; season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, 
equally distributed on both sides of the fish ; sprinkle over the juice 
of 1 lemon ; lay the fish pieces with 1 sliced onion in a covered dish ; 
add Y2 bunch parsley and 1 sprig of thyme, cover and let stand 30 
minutes ; then wipe the pieces dry, dust lightly with flour, dip 
each piece first into beaten egg, then in freshly rolled cracker 
crumbs. Place a frying pan with 1 tablespoonful lard and Y2 table- 
spoonful butter over the fire; as soon as melted, put in as many 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 157 

fish pieces as will conveniently lie in the pan without crowding, and 
fry to a delicate brown ; when all are fried in this way, arrange them 
nicely on a warm dish and spread 2 ounces maitre d'hotel butter 
over, garnish with parsley, and serve with plain boiled potatoes. 

Halil)ut a la Tartare. — Cut 2 thin slices of fresh halibut into 
6 pieces, remove the skin and center bone, season with 1 table- 
spoonful salt, dust the fish pieces lightly with flour, dip into beaten 
egg, and cover with fine bread crumbs ; fry light brown in lard or 
half lard and half butter, and well done. Serve on a warm dish 
with sauce Tartare. 

Halibut, Boiled. — Procure a piece of fresh halibut weighing 3 
pounds ; place it on a grating of a fish kettle, cover with boiling 
water ; add Y4 cup of vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls salt, 1 sliced onion, a 
bouquet, and 12 whole peppers ; as soon as it begins to boil remove 
the kettle to side of stove ; let it simmer (not boil) till done, which 
will take from 10 to 20 minutes. When ready to serve, lift the 
grating out of the kettle, slide the fish on to a warm dish, and serve 
with sauce Hollandaise, oyster, shrimp, egg, or mustard sauce. 

Halibut iu Mayonnaise.— Pick 2 pounds of fresh boiled halibut 
into pieces, sprinkle over the juice of Yg lemon, and mix it with 3 
fine-cut hard-boiled eggs. Put in a small double boiler 2 whole 
eggs, beat with an egg beater until very light ; add slowly 4 table- 
spoonfuls oil, then 4 tablespoonfuls white vinegar ; place this over 
the fire and stir till thick ; then remove. When cold, add again 
slowly 4 tablespoonfuls of oil ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 tea- 
spoonfuls sugar, Yg teaspoonful English mixed mustard, or 1 table- 
spoonful French mustard ; add last 1 cupful cream whipped very 
stiff, mix half of the sauce with the fish ; put it in a salad dish, give 
it a dome-shape, cover with the remaining mayonnaise, and decorate 
with lettuce leaves and hard-boiled eggs ; then serve. In place of 
2 whole eggs 4 yolks may be used. 



158 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

TURBOT. 

In season — tlie English from January to March ; the American 
from January to July. 

Turbot — Where found, etc. — Turbot belongs to the flatfish 
family. The European turbot, the finest of the family, sometimes 
measures 6 feet in width and weighs over 200 pounds. The Amer- 
ican turbot is from 12 to 18 inches long and 6 to 8 inches wide, 
sometimes attaining a weight of 20 pounds. It is found along the 
coast of the New England States ; its meat is delicate and highly 
esteemed as food, and has the shape of a chicken halibut. 

English Turhot, Boiled. — Procure a fresh turbot scale, draw 
and wash it, lay it with a piece of ice in half milk and half water, 
let it soak for 1 to 2 hours, then remove the fish and rub both sides 
over with lemon juice ; lay the fish on a drainer in a fish kettle, 
cover with cold water, add to every quart of water 1 tablespoonful 
salt and 1 tablespoonful vinegar, place the kettle over a strong fire ; 
as soon as it commences to boil, draw it to side of stove and let 
simmer till done. When ready to serve, lift the turbot out of 
kettle, drain and slip it on to a warm dish, rub a little butter over 
the white surface, garnish with parsley, and serve with sauce 
Hollandaise and boiled potatoes. 

American Turhot a la Diplomate. — Remove the fillets from 
a medium-sized turbot, cut them half -heart shape, season with sea- 
soning salt ; put the fillets in a covered dish with 2 fine-chopped 
onions, some fresh parsley, and nearly covered with white wine ; let 
them lie in the marinade 1 hour ; then place the fish in a thickly 
buttered pan, add the marinade ; set the pan over the fire, and boil 
5 minutes ; then place it in a medium oven, cover with buttered 
paper, and bake till done, basting frequently. At the same time 
place 1 pint of oysters without their liquor in a saucepan over the 
fire, add the juice of Ya lemon, '/g teaspoonful seasoning salt, Yg 
tablespoonful butter, and cook 2 minutes ; then remove the oysters. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. I59 

Melt in another saucepan 1 tablespoonful butter, add 1 tablespoon- 
f ul flour, stir 2 minutes ; add Yg cupful white broth, Yg cupful of the 
fish broth, Ys cupful oyster broth, Y2 Q^Qt^ teaspoonful seasoning salt, 
a little beef extract, cook 5 minutes ; then strain in another sauce- 
pan. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Y2 cupful cream, add it slowly to 
the sauce, add Ys tablespoonful butter in small pieces, let the sauce 
get hot, add the oysters, and set the saucepan in a warm place. 
When the fish is done lay half of the fillets in a warm dish, pour 
over some of the sauce and oysters ; lay over the other fillets, pour 
over a little more sauce, and cover with 2 tablespoonf uls fresh grated 
bread crumbs, mixed with 2 tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan cheese. 
Set the dish for a few minutes in a hot oven or place it under a gas 
broiler ; then serve in the same dish, and the sauce in a sauce bowl. 

Turbot Gratine. — Eemove the fillets from a medium-sized 
turbot ; season with salt and pepper, lay them in a covered dish 
with 2 sliced onions, some parsley, cover with 1 pint Rhine wine, 
and let them lie 1 hour. Thirty minutes before serving put the 
fillets in a thickly buttered pan, add the wine and onions ; place in a 
hot oven, and cook till done. At the same time place a saucepan 
with 1 ounce butter over the fire ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut raw 
ham, 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 
heaping tablespoonful flour, stir a few minutes, then add Y2 pi^tt 
white broth, Ys pint cream or milk, a small bouquet, boil 6 minutes. 
Then strain into another saucepan, add Yg can mushrooms, 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, and cook slowly 15 minutes ; add a little more but- 
ter and nutmeg. When the fish is done lay half of the fillets in a 
dish to be served in, pour over Ys of the sauce, put in the remaining 
fillets, pour over more sauce and mushrooms, sprinkle 3 tablespoon- 
fuls grated bread crumbs and 3 tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan 
cheese over the top, place the dish for a few minutes in a hot oven 
to bake light brown, then serve. 

Turbot, Broiled. — Clean, wash, and dry a small-sized turbot, 
remove head, tail, and fins ; split the fish and cut each half into 



160 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

pieces about 3 inches wide. Lay tliem for an hour or more in olive 
oil, sliced onions, salt, lemon juice, and parsley. Twenty minutes 
before serving dry the fish with a soft towel, and dip the pieces 
separately into cold melted butter. Sprinkle with bread crumbs 
and lay on a hot broiler ; broil over a slow fire till browned on both 
sides and well done. Serve on a warm dish with caper or anchovy 
sauce, garnish with parsley and cut lemon. 

Turbot Olace a I'Admiral. — About 3 hours before serving 
soak a medium-sized fish in salt and water, to take off the slime ; 
cleanse it thoroughly. Have a deep roasting pan with a grating ; 
cover the grating with some thin slices of pork ; dry and rub the 
fish all over with salt, lay it on the grating of roasting pan, with the 
pork under it; add 1 bottle champagne or Rhine wine, 2 onions, 1 
bouquet, and some whole peppers ; cover with buttered paper ; set 
the pan in a hot oven, and baste frequently until done. Then lift 
the grating with the fish from the pan, strain the gravy, free it 
from fat, and reduce it by boiling to one half ; add 1 tablespoonful 
crawfish butter, put the fish back into the pan, leaving it on the 
grating. Set the fish in the oven, leaving the door open, and pour 
the sauce, a little at a time, over it until the fish is glazed all over. 
Then put it carefully on a warm dish, garnish with small mush- 
rooms stewed in butter, serve with sauce a la regence. Other large 
fish may be dressed in the same way. 

FRESH MACKEREL. 

hi seasofi from April to November; co7isidered best in May 
and June. 

Fresh Mackerel, Fried. — Trim and split 3 good-sized fresh 
mackerels through the back, remove heads, tails, and spines, rinse 
off with cold water, and wipe dry with a clean towel ; mix 1 even 
tablespoonful salt and 1 even teaspoonful pepper ; rub, equally di- 
vided, on both sides of the fish. Break an egg in a soupplate, beat 
with a fork until very light ; have ready 1 pint of finely rolled 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 161 

soda crackers, dust the mackerel with flour, dip first in the beaten 
egg, then in the cracker crumbs ; pat each piece with a knife to 
make nice and smooth, and let lie on a board 20 minutes to dry. 
In the meantime cut 4 ounces of larding pork into small pieces, 
place in a frying pan large enough to receive the fish ; let fry till 
light brown, then put in the fish, which turn as soon as light brown 
on one side and fry the same on the other side. Transfer the 
mackerels to a hot dish, garnish with green parsley and 1 lemon ; 
cut lengthwise into 6 pieces, and serve with baked potatoes. An- 
other way is to season the mackerels with 1 even tablespoonful salt, 
roll in flour, and fry in hot lard or half lard and half butter, larding 
pork, or oil. 

Fresh Mackerel, Fried, a la Maitre d'Hotel.— Select 2 
fine, large fresh mackerels, remove heads and tails, split through the 
backs, score each piece slightly on the skin side; rinse of! the fish 
with cold water, and wipe dry. Next season with 1 tablespoonful 
seasoning salt, and place in a covered dish with 2 sliced onions, 1 
sprig of thyme, 1 bay leaf, and 3 sprigs of parsley ; sprinkle over 
the Juice of 1 lemon, cover dish, and let stand 30 minutes ; then 
take out the fish, dust with flour, dip into beaten egg, and cover 
with bread crumbs; let lie on a board for 15 minutes. Twenty 
minutes before serving, place a frying pan with 1 tablespoonful lard 
over the fire ; as soon as melted, put in the fish and fry light brown 
on both sides ; transfer the mackerels to a hot dish, and spread over 
1 tablespoonful maitre d'hotel butter ; garnish with water cress and 
French fried potatoes. 

Fresh Mackerel, Broiled.— Split 2 large fresh mackerels down 
the back, rinse in cold water, and dry with a soft, clean towel ; 
sprinkle a little melted butter over each fish on both sides, rubbing 
the butter all over to prevent it from sticking to the broiler. Lay 
the fish with the split side downward on the broiler, and broil 10 min- 
utes ; then turn and broil 4 minutes on skin side ; when done, lay 
on a hot dish. Stir 1 tablespoonful butter to a cream, add 1 even 



162 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

tablespoonf ul salt and Yo even teaspoonful pepper ; spread over the 
fish, and garnish with lemon and parsley. Another way is to split 
the mackerels through the backs ; season with 1 even tablespoonf ul 
salt, Ya even teaspoonful pepper ; rub 1 teaspoonful olive oil in and 
outside over the fish ; make 2 or 3 slight incisions on each side, and 
broil the same way ; when done, lay on a hot dish, spread over ly^ 
tablespoonful maitre d'hotel butter, garnish with water cress and 
lemon, and serve with small German potatoes fried brown. 

Fresh Mackerel, Baked. — Clean and wash 3 large fresh mack- 
erels and wipe dry ; season with 1 tablespoonful salt, Yo teaspoon- 
ful pepper, equally distributed. Lay 3 slices of larding pork in a 
shallow baking pan, on top of each slice a mackerel, and sprinkle 
the juice of 1 lemon over ; then lay 1 slice of larding pork over 
each fish, place the pan in a medium-hot oven, and bake about 20 
to 25 minutes. When done, carefully remove the fish, arrange on 
a hot dish, decorate with parsley greens, and serve with maitre 
d'hotel sauce or melted butter. 

Fresli Mackerel, Boiled. — Place 3 fresh mackerels in a fish 
kettle, cover with cold water ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful salt, Yd 
cup white vinegar, 1 large onion cut into slices, a bouquet, a small 
carrot, and 12 whole peppers. Place the kettle over a quick fire, 
and as soon as it begins to boil draw to side of stove, letting it sim- 
mer gently 5 minutes. Then remove and drain the fish, lay in a 
hot dish, and serve with mustard sauce. 

Fresh Mackerel, Baked (to Serve Cold).— Cut off the heads 
and tails of 3 fresh mackerels, lay in a roasting pan ; sprinkle over 
1 tablespoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful pepper, 1 chopped onion, 3 cloves, 
1 blade of mace, 12 whole peppers, 1 bay leaf, a small sprig of 
thyme, and 2 sprigs of parsley ; cover with vinegar, and bake 30 
minutes in a hot oven ; then carefully remove to a long, deep dish ; 
strain the vinegar, pour it over the mackerels, and serve when cold. 

Fresh Mackerel a PAnglaise. — Place a wide saucepan with 2 
quarts water over the fire, add 1 heaping tablespoonful salt, 1 bay 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 163 

leaf, 1 blade of mace, 1 sprig of thyme, 2 cloves, 8 whole peppers, 

2 sprigs of parsley, and 1 pint of white Avine. Select 3 large well- 
cleaned fresh mackerels, remove the heads and tails, and cut each 
mackerel into 2 pieces ; as soon as the mixture boils put in the fish ; 
when boiling again, draw the saucepan to side of stove, letting it 
remain without boiling for 10 minutes ; then carefully remove the 
fish, dress on a hot dish, and serve with oyster sauce. 

Fresh Mackerel a I'Allemande.— Select 3 large fresh mack- 
erels, make a small opening near the heads, draw out the entrails, 
then wash and dry with a clean soft towel; cut with a sharp knife 

3 small incisions on both sides of each fish. Mix 1 even tablespoon- 
f ul salt with Ya even teaspoonf ul pepper, and sprinkle in equal por- 
tions over each fish. Butter a shallow baking pan, lay the mack- 
erels in, sprinkle over 1 fine-chopped onion, and pour over each fish a 
little melted butter ; put Yg cupful Ehine wine in the bottom of pan, 
add Y4 cupful mushroom liquor, cover the fish with buttered paper, 
place the pan in a medium-hot oven, and bake till done — about 
20 to 25 minutes. In the meantime prepare the following sauce : 
Put into a small saucepan 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped shallot or 
white onion, Ys clove of bruised garlic, 2 tablespoonf uls fine-chopped 
mushrooms, Ys even teaspoonful pepper, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 
cook and stir 6 minutes without browning ; then add 1 tablespoon- 
ful flour, stir for a few minutes, add 1 pint of broth, cook slowly 5 
minutes ; then draw the saucepan to side of stove, adding Ys table- 
spoonful fine-chopped parsley. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with the 
juice of Ys lemon, add slowly to the sauce, and as soon as the fish is 
done remove carefully to a warm dish, adding the gravy from the 
mackerels to the sauce, mix well, add small piece of butter, stir until 
melted ; then pour over the fish. Serve with potatoes a I'allemande. 

Spanish Mackerel, Broiled. — {SeasonaUe from March to the 
latter part of October']. Procure 2 fresh Spanish mackerel. Make a 
small opening in the fish near the head, draw out the entrails, wash 
in cold water, and wipe dry ; then make an incision down the back 



164 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

to the bone. Mix 1 even tablespoonful salt with 1 even teaspoonful 
pepper, rub this evenly all over the fish ; then pour 1 tablespoonful 
olive oil over each fish ; let lie 15 minutes ; then place on a hot 
broiler over a moderate fire ; when done on one side turn over (8 
minutes' broiling on the meat side and 4 on the skin side is usually 
sufficient to cook through). When done, lay the fish on a hot dish, 
put Ya tablespoonful maitre d'h6tel butter inside of each, and serve 
with maitre d'hotel sauce or melted butter and baked potatoes. 

Spanisli Mackerel en Papillate. — Prepare some fine herbs 
as follows : Place a small saucepan with 2 ounces butter over the 
fire, add. 3 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped white onion and 1 small 
clove of bruised garlic, stir, and cook 3 minutes ; then add 3 table- 
spoonfuls fine-chopped mushrooms, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Yg even 
teaspoonful pepper, cook and stir 5 minutes ; remove from fire and 
add Ys tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley. Select 2 large Spanish 
mackerels, wash, and wipe dry ; make 2 incisions in each and sea- 
son with 1 even tablespoonful salt and 1 even teaspoonful pepper. 
Cut 4 thin slices from a boiled smoked ham ; spread 2 sheets of 
white paper with butter, lay on one side of each sheet a long, thin 
slice of boiled ham ; over this put 1 tablespoonful of the fine 
herbs, on top of this the mackerels, and spread the remaining fine 
herbs equally divided over each fish; cover with a slice of ham, 
fold the paper around the fish, and ^tie at ends and center with a 
tape ; lay in a shallow tin pan, place in a medium-hot oven, and 
bake 25 minutes. To ascertain whether the fish is done put a 
larding needle through the center; if it penetrates easily, it is 
done ; if not, bake a little longer. When done, carefully transfer to 
a hot dish, remove tapes, leaving the paper undisturbed (if boiled 
ham is not handy, take very thin slices of larding pork). In place 
of baking, the mackerels can be broiled on each side about 10 
minutes. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 165 



SALT MACKEEEL. 

' Salt Mackerel, Fried. — Clean and wash 3 salt mackerels sev- 
eral times in cold water, place into a deep dish, cover with cold 
water, and let lie over night, changing the water once during that 
time ; 30 minutes before serving take out the mackerels, rinse in 
fresh cold water, and wipe dry with a towel ; cut off the heads and 
tails, cut each fish into halves, and roll in flour. Place a frying 
pan with 1 tablespoonful lard or clarified drippings over the fire ; 
as soon as hot put in the mackerels and fry light brown on both 
sides. Serve on a hot dish with potatoes boiled in their jackets and 
onion sauce a I'allemande. 

Salt Mackerel, Broiled. — Soak the fish for 24 hours in cold 
water, changing the water twice during that time ; 30 minutes be- 
fore serving take the fish out, rinse in fresh cold water, and wipe 
dry ; rub a little melted butter over each on both sides, place with 
the split side downward on a gridiron over a moderate fire, broil 6 
minutes, then turn over and broil 3 minutes on the skin side. Lay 
on a warm dish and pour a little melted butter over each (or lay 
small pieces of butter over the fish) ; set for a few minutes in the 
oven, then serve. Mackerel prepared in this way is very nice covered 
with a butter, egg, or caper sauce and decorated with small German 
potatoes previously boiled in their jackets, then freed from the skin, 
and laid around the fish. 

Salt Mackerel boiled with Potatoes.— Wash 6 large potatoes, 
pare off a piece of the skin Yg inch around each, place in a wide 
saucepan, cover with cold water, and set over the fire to boil. Wash 
and clean 3 salt mackerels, and when the potatoes are nearly done 
lay the mackerels on top of them and boil slowly 5 minutes. Then 
carefully remove the mackerels with a skimmer to a warm dish and 
put a few pieces of butter on each ; when the potatoes are done 
drain off the water, return for a few minutes to the fire, and serve 
with the fish. 



166 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

Salt Mackerel with Cream Sauce. — Wash 2 salt mackerels 
several times in cold water, place in a large, deep frying pan, cover 
with cold water, put over the fire, and let come to a boil ; then drain 
oti the water, return the mackerels to the fire, and again cover with 
fresh cold water ; boil 5 minutes ; then carefully remove the fish with 
a skimmer, lay on a warm dish until the following sauce is prepared : 
Place a small saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire, add 

1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add IY2 cup boiling 
milk, stir and cook a few minutes ; then draw saucepan to side 
of stove. Mix the yolk of 1 egg with a little cold milk, add grad- 
ually to sauce, add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley and a small 
piece of butter, mix well, and pour it over the mackerels. Garnish 
with a border of small potatoes previously boiled with their skins 
and then peeled. 

HERRING. 

Fresh Herring Farci. — Remove heads and tails from 6 fresh 
herrings, split through the back, remove the spine and bones, wash 
and wipe dry ; then spread out on a clean napkin, season with 1 
even tablespoonful salt, lay the milt over them, if there be any ; let 
lie until the following forcemeat is prepared : Place a small saucepan 
with 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine- 
chopped onion, cook 3 minutes ; then add 2 tablespoonfuls fine- 
chopped mushrooms, cook for a few minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful 
flour, stir 2 minutes ; then add 1 cup of white broth, 4 tablespoon- 
fuls white wine, stir and cook 5 minutes ; remove from fire, add 1 
teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, Y2 ©ven teaspoonful pepper, 1 even 
teaspoonful salt ; when cold, mix it with Yo pound of sausage meat, 

2 tablespoonfuls grated bread crumbs, and 1 egg. Spread over the 
inside of each fish 1 tablespoonful of this, and lay each one together 
again into its natural form. Spread a thin layer of the same force- 
meat over the top of each. Mix in a soupplate the yolks of 3 eggs 
with 1 ounce melted butter and Ys even teaspoonful salt ; dip the 
fish into the egg, then roll in fresh grated bread crumbs, lay in a 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 107 

shallow tin pan, and bake in a hot oven to a delicate brown about 
20 minutes. Serve with tomato sauce. Fresh mackerel may be pre- 
pared in the same way. 

Fresh Herring, Fried. — Clean, wash, and dry the fish, cut 
off the fins and tails, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, 
and set aside for 1 hour. Shortly before serving, wipe dry and 
dredge with flour. Dip first into beaten egg, then in fine bread 
crumbs or powdered crackers, and fry on both sides light brown in 
hot lard or drippings. Fry the roes in the same way. Serve with 
anchovy or tomato sauce, and garnish with fried parsley. Or fill 
herrings with bread filling, sew them up, dip into beaten egg and 
fine bread crumbs, and then fry in lard or pork. Another way is to 
season the fish with salt, roll in flour, and fry in larding pork or 
lard. 

Salt Herring, Fried. — Remove the skins and bones of several 
well-soaked herrings, cut off heads and tails, and cut each one into 
two pieces. Dry and dredge with flour, dip into beaten egg, then 
into fine bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard nice and brown. Or 
dip the pieces into a batter and then fry. 

Salt Herring, Broiled. — Soak the herrings for 24 hours, 
changing the water 3 times during that time. Then take out, wipe 
very dry, and wrap each in a thickly buttered paper. Lay on a hot 
broiler and broil 5 minutes on each side. In serving, remove paper, 
lay on a warm dish, pour some melted butter over, or lay a piece of 
butter on each. Fresh herring and mackerel may be dressed in the 
same way. 

Herring Salad. — See my book Desserts and Salads, recipe 899. 

Herring with Mayonnaise. — Eub the yolks of 2 hard-boiled 
eggs fine, mix by degrees with % cupful oil, and stir until white 
and ereamlike ; add 1 tablespoonful vinegar, Yg cup thick, sour 
cream, Yg teaspoonful salt, and 1 of sugar. Take 3 herrings which 
have previously been soaked 24 hours in cold water ; remove the 



168 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

skin and bones, cut each fish slantingly into 3 pieces, and put on a 
round dish ; pour the above mayonnaise over, garnish with green 
lettuce and hard-boiled eggs ; cut into quarters and serve. In place 
of the above sauce a remolade sauce may be poured over the fish. 

Herring aux Fines Herlbes. — Soak 6 salted herrings for 24 
hours in cold water, changing the water 3 times during that period ; 
then take out, remove heads, skins, and tails ; split in two, and lay 
for 12 hours in sour milk. After that rinse in cold water, wipe dry, 
and lay in a stone jar. Eub the herring milt fine and mix with 3 
fine-minced onions and IY3 pint wine vinegar ; pour this over the 
fish, cover the jar with paper, and let stand for 3 days. In serving, 
cut each half of the herring into 3 pieces slantingly, and lay on an 
oval dish ; then prepare the following sauce : Fry 6 fine-chopped 
button mushrooms and 2 fine-chopped white onions in 2 ounces 
butter 5 minutes; mix with 1 gill of salad oil, add some of the 
pickle in which the herrings laid, and pour it over the fish. Garnish 
with cut lemon and mixed pickles. 

Herring Rolls. — Soak several herrings in cold water for 24 
hours, changing the water twice ; then take out, split through the 
back, remove all the bones, heads, and tails, cut each herring into 
halves, and lay for 12 hours in sour milk or water. After that take 
out, wipe dry, and spread on a board. For 6 herrings mix 3 fine- 
minced onions, 2 tablespoonfuls English-made mustard, or 4 table- 
spoonfuls French mustard ; spread some of this mixture over the 
inside of each fish, and roll up ; fasten with a wooden toothpick or 
bind with a string. Lay the rolls in a stone jar with 1 lemon cut 
into slices and freed from the pits, 2 large onions cut into slices, 3 
bay leaves, 1 tablespoonf ul whole peppers, and some capers ; stir the 
milt of the herring fine, mix with 1 quart vinegar, and pour over 
the herrings ; tie the jar up with paper and set in a cool place. 
After 4 days they are ready to be eaten. 

Herring MariniSre. — Soak 10 herrings for 24 hours in fresh 
water, changing the water 2 or 3 times during that time; then 



SEA FOOD, Etc. iqq 

take out, clean and wash, lay in a stone jar, with 3 large sliced 
onions, 4 bay leaves, 6 cloves, and 1 tablespoonf ul whole peppers ; 
stir the milt to a cream, mix with Yg pint vinegar, add it to the 
herrings ; add sufficient vinegar to entirely cover the fish ; close the 
jar, and set in a cool place. After 4 days they are ready for use. 
Or remove the skin and bones of the herrings, split the herrings in 
two, cut off heads and tails, roll up each half of fish, and fasten 
with a little pointed piece of wood or toothpick ; lay them with 
sliced onions and spice in a stone jar, add the milt stirred to a 
cream, and boil sufficient vinegar to cover the herrings. Let it cool 
off, and pour over the fish ; cover and set away for 4 days, when 
they can be eaten. The itnported herring from Holland is to le 
used for all of these recipes. 

Herring a PItalienne. — Lay 3 Holland herrings for 6 hours 
in cold water, changing the water twice ; then make with a sharp 
knife 2 incisions on sides of each, from the head down to the tail, 
leaving on each side a margin of 1 inch, pull off the skin, pare the 
head and tail, remove the entrails, and lay the fish for 2 hours in 
milk with a piece of ice. Shortly before serving cut each herring 
slantingly into 4 pieces and lay in their original form on a glass 
dish, then chop fine 2 tablespoonfuls capers ; dip 1 sprig of parsley 
into boiling water, remove instantly, and chop fine ; add 1 table- 
spoonful of the chopped parsley to the capers, add Yg even teaspoon- 
ful white .pepper, 4 tablespoonfuls olive oil, 3 tablespoonfuls herb 
vinegar, and 1 tablespoonful tarragon vinegar (if not handy take 
white vinegar) ; mix all together, and pour over the herrings ; 
sprinkle over the chopped yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, and garnish 
with 18 olives, prepared as follows : Lay the salted olives for several 
hours in cold water, changing the water twice ; then peel from the 
stone, press together so as to give their original form again, lay be- 
tween and around the herrings, and serve. 



170 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

FRESH CODFISH. 
Fillets of Codfish au Gratin. — Remove the skin and bono 
from 3 thin slices of fresh codfish, cut each slice into 2 pieces ; sea- 
son with 1 even tablespoonful salt, Yg teaspoonful pepper, and 
sprinkle over the juice of 1 lemon; lay the fillets in a thickly but- 
tered pan, add Yg cupful white wine, and cover with buttered paper; 
20 minutes before serving place in a hot oven to bake, basting fre- 
quently. At the same time melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a sauce- 
pan, add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir for a few minutes ; then 
add 1 cupful white broth, Y2 cup mushroom liquor, Y2 teaspoonful 
salt and pepper, cook 5 minutes ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 3 
tablespoonfuls cream, add it slowly to the sauce ; remove from fire, 
and add 1 tablespoonful lemon juice ; set saucepan in a cool place. 
As soon as the fish is done cover each fillet with the sauce, sprinkle 
over 3 tablespoonfuls grated cheese, and 3 tablespoonfuls grated 
bread crumbs ; return the pan for a few minutes to the hot oven, to 
bake light brown. Arrange the fish nicely on a warm dish, garnish 
with fried tomatoes, or serve with tomato sauce. 

CODFISH. 

In season the year round. 
Codflsli boiled Whole. — Place a saucepan with 1 gallon 
water over the fire ; as soon as it boils, add 4 tablespoonfuls salt, 3 
fine-cut onions, 1 carrot, a bunch of parsley tied together with 2 
sprigs of thyme, 2 bay leaves, and 3 cloves ; add 12 whole peppers 
and Y2 pi^^t white vinegar, boil 30 minutes ; then strain the stock 
through a napkin, and set aside. Clean and wash a 6-pound cod- 
fish, place it on a drainer in a fish kettle, pour over the cold stock, 
set it over a quick fire ; as soon as it commences to boil draw the 
kettle to side of stove and let simmer till the fish is done. When 
ready to serve lift the fish out of kettle and slide it on to a warm 
dish ; serve with boiled potatoes and sauce Hollandaise or oyster 
sauce ; garnish with parsley. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 171 

Codfish, Boiled. — Place a fish kettle with 3 quarts water over 
the fire, add Yg cup of white vinegar, 3 tablespoonf uls salt ; as soon 
as it begins to boil, add Yg carrot and 1 onion cut into slices, a bou- 
quet, and 8 whole peppers ; boil 10 minutes. Procure a 4-pound 
piece of fresh codfish, wash and place it in the kettle ; when boil- 
ing again, draw the kettle to side of stove and let simmer 30 
minutes, or until done. When ready to serve, slide the fish on to a 
warm dish, and serve with egg, mustard, or shrimp sauce and boiled 
potatoes ; garnish with parsley. 

Codfish, Baked. — Procure a small-sized fresh codfish ; clean, 
wash, and season it with salt and pepper ; place in a covered dish 
or kettle, add 2 sliced onions, Ys bunch parsley, the juice of 1 
lemon, 2 sprigs of thyme, and 1 clove of garlic ; cover and let it lay 
2 hours. In the meantime melt 2 ounces of butter in a saucepan, 
add 1 fine-chopped onion ; cook 5 minutes ; then add 2 ounces of 
bread, previously soaked and pressed out in cold water, stir until 
the bread has formed into a smooth paste ; remove from fire, and 
when cold mix with 1 pound fine-chopped fresh codfish ; add 1 tea- 
spoonful seasoning salt, 1 even teaspoonful thyme, and 1 egg, and 
mix all together ; 1 hour before serving wipe the fisli dry, fill with 
the forcemeat, and sew up. Lay 4 thin slices of larding pork in the 
bottom of a baking pan, the fish over it, 3 thin slices of larding 
pork on top, and pour a little melted butter over ; place the fish in 
a hot oven, and bake till done, basting it occasionally with its own 
gravy (if it should get too brown, cover with a buttered paper). 
When done, remove the fish carefully to a warm dish, and serve 
with mustard or Hollandaise sauce. 

Codfish, Fried. — Cut 3Y2 pounds fresh codfish into slices, re- 
move the skin and center bone, cut each slice in two ; sprinkle IY2 
even tablespoonful seasoning salt over the slices, equally distributed 
on both sides, and dust them lightly with flour. Place 6 soda 
crackers on a pastry board, roll fine with a rolling pin, sift the 
crumbs through a sieve, roll those which stay back in the sieve 
13 



172 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

again. Beat 1 egg in a soupplate until liglit ; take each piece of 
fish separately up on a fork and dip into the beaten egg, then roll 
in the cracker crumbs. Lay the slices thus prepared on a clean 
board or dish ; place a frying pan with 6 ounces fine-cut larding 
pork over the fire, and fry till it begins to turn a light-brown color ; 
pour part of the pork in a small saucepan, then place as many of 
the fish pieces in the pan as will conveniently go in, and fry to a 
delicate brown on both sides (care must be taken not to have the 
fire too strong ; the pork in saucepan should be added as required 
during the frying). Serve the fish on a warm dish, with either 
mustard or Tartar sauce, or butter. Baked or boiled potatoes are 
generally served with this. 

Fresh Codfish a rAllemande. — Eemove the skin and bone 
from 3 slices of fresh codfish ; cut each slice in 2 pieces, wash, and 
wipe dry ; season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt ; lay in a cov- 
ered dish with 1 large onion cut into slices, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 
sprig of thyme, Yg bunch parsley ; cover the dish and let stand 1 
hour. In the meantime take a small loaf of stale baker's bread 
and grate it on a grater ; put 1 egg in a soupplate, and beat it till 
light. Twenty minutes before serving, wipe the fish pieces dry and 
dust lightly with flour, dip each piece separately into the beaten 
egg, then roll in the bread crumbs ; lay on a clean board and pat 
smooth with a knife. Place a frying pan with 1 ounce pure lard 
and 1 ounce butter over the fire ; as soon as hot put in as many of 
the fish pieces as will conveniently lie in the pan ; fry to a delicate 
brown on both sides over a moderate fire (adding more lard and 
butter if necessary). Pick over 1 pint of corn salad, wash it in 
cold water, and drain on a sieve; mix 1 tablespoonful salad oil with 
2 tablespoonfuls vinegar and Yi teaspoonful seasoning salt, put 
the corn salad in a dish, pour over the dressing, and mix with 2 
forks. AVhen ready to serve, arrange the fish nicely on a warm dish, 
put the salad in a circle around it, and serve with Tartar sauce a 
I'allemande. Peel 1 quart small German potatoes, boil them in 1 



SEA FOOD, Etc.- I73 

quart of water, with 1 tablespoonf ul salt, 8 minutes ; then drain, 
and dry for a few minutes over the fire. Melt IY2 ounce butter in 
a large frying pan, put in the potatoes, and fry till done. If the pan 
is not large enough to hold all, fry part of them, and when done 
fry the remainder, using a little more butter if necessary. Serve 
the potatoes in a covered dish and sprinkle 1 teaspoonful chopped 
parsley over. In place of butter, drippings or lard may be used, 
but will not be so nice. 

In place of corn salad, lettuce, chicory, or water cress may be 
used, or the fish may be served with potato salad. For Potato 
Salad, see my book Desserts and .Salads, recipe 892. 

Boiled Codfish Tongue with Black Butter.— Place a sauce- 
pan with 3 pints water over the fire ; when it begins to boil add 1 
fine-cut onion, 1 small-cut carrot, a bouquet, 8 whole peppers, 1 gill 
of vinegar, 1 heaping tablespoonful salt, boil 10 minutes ; then add 
13 well-washed fresh codfish tongues, boil slowly 10 minutes ; then 
draw the saucepan to side of stove, let stand without boiling 5 min- 
utes ; then remove, drain, and wipe them dry, arrange the tongues 
on a hot dish, and sprinkle over 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley. 
Boil 1 gill of vinegar with a little salt, 4 crushed peppers, Y4 bay 
leaf, 5 minutes, then strain. Melt 4 ounces butter in a small sauce- 
pan, let it get dark brown, remove the scum, add the vinegar, and 
pour it over the tongue. 

Boiled Codfish Tongue with Pepper Sauce.— Boil 1 dozen 
tongues as in foregoing recipe ; place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter, 
1 tablespoonful fine-chopped onion, and Yg fine-chopped green pep- 
per over the fire, cook 5 minutes ; add Ys cupful fine-chopped mush- 
rooms, 1 teaspoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful pepper, cook 5 minutes 
longer ; then add 1 cupful fine-cut tomatoes, Ys teaspoonful sugar, 
boil slowly 10 minutes. Arrange the tongue on a hot dish, pour 
the sauce over, garnish the dish with 6 rice timbales, and serve. 

Codfish Tongue, Fried. — Dust 12 cold boiled codfish tongues 
with flour, dip them into beaten egg, then roll in fine bread crumbs, 



174 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

and fry to a fine color in hot fat ; dress them on a warm dish, spread 
2 ounces maitre d'hotel butter over, and garnish with 6 slices of 
buttered toast or croutons. 

Codfish Tongue a rAllemande.— Boil 12 fresh codfish 
tongues as in preceding recipe. Arrange them on a warm dish, 
pour 1 pint of hot sauce a I'allemande over, and lay a border of 
cooked nudles around the dish ; or serve with the boiled potatoes. 
Boiled codfish tongues may be served with following sauces : 
Hollandaise, horseradish, gourmet, oyster, tomato, egg, Kobert, 
caper, and mustard. 

SALT CODFISH. 

Salt Codfish Croquettes. — Soak 1 pound salt codfish in cold 
water for several hours, then pick it into small pieces, place in a 
saucepan over the fire, cover with cold water ; when nearly boiling, 
pour the fish into a colander, rinse off with cold water ; return it in 
a saucepan to the fire, cover with cold water ; when nearly boiling, 
remove and drain the fish on a sieve. Place a saucepan with 1 
ounce butter and 1 fine-chopped onion over the fire, cook 5 min- 
utes ; add 1 tablespoonf ul flour, stir 3 minutes ; then add '/o cupful 
milk, Yi teaspoonful white pepper, Yg teaspoonful English mustard, 
cook 3 minutes ; add the codfish, 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, 
1 well-beaten egg, and 1 yolk ; stir for a few minutes over the fire ; 
then spread the mixture in a tin pan, and set aside to cool. Shortly 
before serving form the mixture into small croquettes, dip them into 
beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat to a delicate 
brown ; serve with caper sauce or tomato sauce a I'allemande. 

Salt Codfish a I'Espagnole.— Soak lYs pound salt codfish 
for several hours in cold water, changing the water twice. One hour 
before serving pick the fish into small pieces, place it in a sauce- 
pan over the fire, cover with cold water ; when nearly boiling, pour 
the codfish into a sieve and rinse off with cold water ; return it in 
saucepan to the fire, cover with fresh cold water ; when nearly boil- 



SEA FOOD. Etc. 175 

ing, remove and drain again. In the meantime place a saucepan 
with 2 ounces butter or 4 tablespoonfuls oil over the fire, add Yg 
cupful fine-chopped onion, 1 fine-chopped green pepper, 1 bruised 
clove of garlic ; cook and. stir 5 minutes ; add 1 cupful canned 
tomatoes (or 2 fresh tomatoes), 1 pint boiling water, 1 teaspoonful 
beef extract ; peel 6 large potatoes, cut them into round balls with 
a vegetable cutter, wash in cold water, and add to the saucepan 
with 1 teaspoonful salt ; cook till the potatoes are done ; then add 
the fish, let it get boiling hot ; serve on a hot dish, and sprinkle 1 
tablespoonf ul fine-chopped parsley over. 

Codfish a Pltalienne. — Soak 1 pound of salt codfish 3 hours 
in cold water, changing the water twice during that time; then 
pick it into fine pieces, place it in a saucepan over the fire, cover 
with cold water, let it heat gradually until nearly boiling ; pour the 
fish into a sieve, and rinse off with cold water ; return the fish to 
saucepan, cover with fresh cold water, place over the fire until 
nearly boiling, then remove and drain in a sieve. At the same time 
peel 6 medium-sized potatoes, wash and put them with 1 pint cold 
water and 1 teaspoonful salt over the fire ; boil till tender ;. drain 
and mash fine with Yg tablespoonful butter. Melt in a small sauce- 
pan 1 ounce butter or 3 tablespoonfuls of oil, add Y2 cupful fine- 
chopped onion, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook and 
stir 2 minutes ; add Ys pii^t of milk, and cook 5 minutes ; season 
with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ys even teaspoonful pepper, add the 
codfish, the niashed potatoes, the yolks of 2 eggs, and the whites 
beaten to a stiff froth. Put this preparation into a pudding dish, 
smooth the top with a knife, and sprinkle 3 tablespoonfuls grated 
cheese over ; place in a hot oven, and bake light brown. Serve with 
stewed tomatoes. 

Salt Codfish a la Rosano. — Soak 1 pound salt codfish for 
several hours in cold water, changing the water twice during that 
time. One hour before serving, peel and wash 6 medium-sized 
potatoes, place them with 1 teaspoonful salt and 1 pint cold water 



176 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

over the fire to boil. In the meantime pick the codfish into small 
pieces, place it in a saucepan over the fire, cover with cold water, 
let it come to a boiling point; then drain off the water, rinse 
with cold water, return the fish to the saucepan, cover with cold 
water, heat till nearly boiling ; pour the fish in a sieve to drain. 
Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 fine-chopped onion, and 
cook 5 minutes ; then add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 
minutes ; add Yg cup of milk, 1 even teaspoouful seasoning salt, 2 
tablespoonf uls chopped mushrooms, cook 5 minutes ; then add the 
fish. As soon as the potatoes are done, drain off the water and 
mash them fine; add Yg tablespoonful butter and the codfish, mix 
all well together ; add the yolks of 2 eggs and 1 whole egg, form 
this into balls the size of an egg and then shape into pyramids, set 
in a pan, brush over with beaten egg, and bake light brown in a 
hot oven. Serve with tomato sauce. 

Codfish a la Creme. — Pick IY2 pound of well-soaked salt cod- 
fish into small pieces, put it in a saucepan over the fire, cover with 
cold water, let it heat gradually to nearly boiling, then drain ; cover 
again with fresh cold water and return to the fire ; when about to 
boil, remove instantly, and pour the fish into a sieve. Alelt 1 ounce 
butter in a saucepan, add 1 small tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 
2 minutes ; add 1 cup of milk, cook 3 minutes. Mix the yolks of 
2 eggs with '% cupful cream, add to the sauce ; add 1 ounce but- 
ter in small pieces, and, last, the fish ; stir over the fire till nearly 
boiling, then remove. At the same time have 1 quart peeled pota- 
toes boiled in 1 quart water, with 1 tablespoonful salt ; when done, 
drain, mash, and mix them with 1 ounce butter ; put them into 
small buttered timbale forms, and keep them warm. When ready to 
serve, dress the fish on a hot dish, unmold the potato timbales, 
set them in a circle around the dish, and sprinkle a little fine- 
chopped parsley over all ; then serve. Another way is to dress 
the dish alternately with potatoes Tortonia, and stuffed and baked 
tomatoes. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 177 

Codfish a PAUemande. — Soak IY2 pound salt codfish for several 
hours in cold water ; 1 hour before serving, pick it into small pieces ; 
place the codfish in a saucepan, cover with cold water ; set over a 
slow fire, and let heat gradually till nearly boiling ; drain oS the 
water ; cover with fresh cold water, return to the fire, and let come 
to a boil ; then drain the fish in a sieve, and rinse off with cold 
water. Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the fire, add 1 
tablespoonf ul flour, stir for a few minutes ; add 1 pint white broth 
(or 1 pint boiling water), 1 teaspoonf ul beef extract, and boil 5 min- 
utes. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs, with the juice of Yg lemon, add a 
little of the sauce first to the eggs, then gradually the eggs to the 
sauce ; add the fish, 2 tablespoonfuls cream, and Y4 teaspoonful 
pepper ; stir over the fire till boiling hot. At the same time clean 
2 large carrots and 4 large potatoes, cut them with a vegetable 
cutter into small round balls ; place the carrot balls in a saucepan 
over the fire ; add 1 teaspoonful sugar, cover with boiling water, 
and cook till tender ; then drain, add a small piece of butter, and 
toss them for 2 minutes over the fire. Boil the potato balls in 1 
pint water and 1 teaspoonful salt ; when done, drain off the water 
and set in a warm place. Kub the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs fine, 
add 1 teaspoonful butter, a sprinkle of salt and nutmeg, also 1 raw 
yolk, and a little flour ; form this into 12 small balls like marbles, 
roll in flour, and boil 5 minutes in salted water ; remove the egg 
balls with a skimmer. Arrange the codfish on a warm dish, lay the 
egg balls, the potato balls, and the carrot balls in clusters around 
the dish, chop the whites of the eggs fine, and sprinkle them with 1 
tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley over the dish, then serve. 

Codfish a I'Americaine. — Soak IY2 pound salt codfish over 
night in cold water, changing the water several times ; then pick 
into small pieces, place in a saucepan over the fire, cover with cold 
water, let heat gradually ; when nearly boiling drain off the water ; 
return the codfish to the fire, with fresh cold water, again let heat 
gradually till just about to boil, then drain the fish in a sieve. Melt 



178 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 
and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 pint milk, boil three minutes ; then add 
the codfish, stir until it boils. Pour the codfish on to a warm dish, 
and serve with mashed potatoes. Another way is to put the pre- 
pared codfish in a saucepan over the fire, cover with 1 pint milk, 
mix 1 tablespoonful flour with 1 tablespoonful butter, add it to the 
fish ; stir until just about to boil, then serve. If any of the fish is 
left, it may be mixed with mashed potatoes and 1 egg, then formed 
into cakes and fried in fat. 

Salt Codfish, Boiled. — Soak 3 pounds salt codfish for several 
hours in cold water, changing the water twice ; 2 hours before serv- 
ing lay the codfish into a saucepan, cover with cold water, and set 
on side of stove to heat the fish gradually (care must be taken not 
to let it boil). When nearly boiling drain off the water, return to 
the saucepan with fresh cold water, and again let it come nearly to 
a boil ; repeat this once more, then dress on a warm dish, and serve 
with butter sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and English mixed mus- 
tard. 

Codfish Cakes. — Soak 1 pound of codfish in cold water for sev- 
eral hours, then place it in a saucepan over the fire, cover with cold 
water ; as soon as it begins to boil drain off the water, cover again 
with cold water, and let it come to a boiling point ; then drain off 
all the water, remove the bones, chop the fish fine, and mix it with 
an equal portion of mashed potatoes ; add Vg tablespoonful butter 
and 1 egg ; form the mixture into round balls the size of an egg, 
flatten, and fry light brown in drippings or lard ; serve on a hot 
dish with catsup. 

Codfish Balls a la Patricia. — Prepare the codfish and pota- 
toes as in foregoing recipe, form it into small balls like a walnut, 
then dip each one first into flour and then each separately into 
beaten egg, and cover with bread crumbs ; drop into boiling fat, 
fry light brown, remove with a skimmer, lay for a few minutes on 
paper, and serve on a hot dish. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. I79 

SALMON. 

Seasonable the year round. 

Where found, etc. — The salmon are of great importance 
to man as an article of food, and are the most esteemed of 
any fresh-water fish. The species, which are numerous, inhabit 
the sea and fresh water ; they are found in the northern waters 
of Europe, Asia, and America ; none have been found in South 
America, the East Indies, or Africa. Their flesh is red-colored 
and delicate, and of excellent taste. Their average weight as 
they are sold in our markets is from 2Y2 to 30 pounds, and it 
is said that they obtain a weight as high as 60 to 70 pounds. 
During the month of September salmon advance very much in 
price ; then again fresh salmon caught on the Atlantic coast go out 
of season at the end of this month. Eresh salmon in the Columbia 
Eiver are caught all the year round, and are shipped in refrigerator 
cars and received daily in our markets. 

How to truss and boil a Whole Fish.— Select a medium- 
sized fresh salmon, clean, and wash it ; then thread a trussing 
needle with fine, strong cord, pass the needle first through the 
eyes of the fish, then tie the cord under the jaw ; next pass the 
needle through the center part of the body, draw the string tightly, 
so that the head is drawn to the left side close to the body of the 
fish ; then fasten the string round the end of the tail (this gives the 
fish the form of the letter S). All large fish which are prepared 
either for boiling or baking can be trussed the same way ; another 
way is to simply tie a string around the head of the fish. After pre- 
paring in this way, place on the grating of a fish kettle, cover with 
cold water, add for every 2 quarts of water 1 heaping tablespoonful 
salt, 2 onions cut into slices, 1 sliced carrot, a bouquet, and Y4 cup 
vinegar ; place the kettle over a quick fire ; as soon as it boils draw 
the kettle to side of stove, and let simmer till done, which may be 
known by the fish rising to the surface ; or pass a larding needle 



180 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

through the center of the fish and if it penetrates easily it is done ; 
if not, it has to remain longer over the fire. Shortly before serving 
lift the drainer with the fish out of the water, set it for a few min- 
utes on top the kettle, then slide it on to a warm dish, garnish with 
parsley, and serve with egg or oyster sauce or melted butter. If the 
fish is served at a dinner party, it is best to have both melted butter 
and a sauce, as some may object to sauce. Plain peeled boiled 
potatoes are served with this fish. All large fish are boiled the same 
way. 

Boiled Salmon served cold with Mayonnaise.— Boil a 

medium-sized salmon as directed in foregoing recipe ; when done, 
slip on to an oval-shaped dish and set in a cold place. Shortly be- 
fore serving remove the upper skin, cover the whole fish with 
mayonnaise, lay a border of chopped aspic around the dish, and 
serve, sending some mayonnaise in a sauce bowl to table with it. In 
place of a whole fish, a piece of the salmon may be taken. 

Salmon, Boiled. — Place on a grate in a fish kettle a piece of 
fresh salmon weighing about 2Y2 pounds, and cover with boiling 
water; add 1 heaping tablespoonful salt, 1 onion cut into quarters,.! 
small carrot, 6 whole peppers, a bouquet, and Yg gill of wliite vinegar, 
and set the kettle over a strong fire ; as soon as it begins to boil, 
draw the kettle to side of stove, letting it simmer (but not boil) 10 
minutes ; then remove the fish carefully to a warm dish, and serve 
either with melted butter, sauce Tartare, or oyster sauce. Another 
way is to procure a piece of fresh salmon, split it through the 
back, remove the bones, and cut into slices 1 inch in thickness, 
and lay on the grating of a fish kettle; place a fish kettle with 
water over the fire, add for every 2 quarts of water 2 table- 
spoonfuls vinegar, 1 heaping tablespoonful salt, a bouquet, and 1 
onion ; when the water boils put the grating with the fish pieces 
into the fish kettle, and as soon as the water begins to boil again 
remove to side of stove, where it stops boiling, letting it remain 10 
minutes ; then lift the grating up and place it on top of the kettle 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 181 

to drain for a few minutes ; now arrange the salmon on a warm 
dish, garnish with parsley, and serve with either melted butter- 
sauce Genevoise, sauce piquante, or sauce Robert. Boiled potatoes 
are usually served with this fish. 

Salmon a la Bismarck. — Select a fresh salmon of 8 to 10 
pounds, clean, wash, and wipe dry; rub 1 even tablespoonful salt 
on inside of fish ; fill with fish forcemeat, sew it up, sprinkle over 
the juice of 2 lemons and 1 tablespoonful salt, and set the fish in a 
cool place for 1 hour; then lay 4 thin slices of larding pork on a 
fish grating, place the fish over the pork ; lay also 4 slices of it in 
the bottom of the fish kettle, set the grating in the kettle, add 1 
bottle Ehine wine, and sufficient white broth to reach half way up 
the fish ; add a large bouquet, 2 medium-sized onions, 1 carrot, 2 
ounces lean raw ham cut into small pieces, and 12 whole peppers ; 
cover and place the fish kettle over the fire, and as soon as boiling 
remove the cover, lay a piece of buttered paper over the fish, and 
set kettle in the oven, to bake 20 minutes ; then turn the fish over, 
return to the oven, and roast till done, basting frequently. When 
done, lift it out and slide on to a warm dish ; brush the top over 
with a glaze, and return for a few miuutes to the oven ; when ready 
to serve, lay 24 small button mushrooms cooked in butter and 24 
small cooked truffles, in clusters, around it ; add to this 12 large 
decorated fish forcemeat balls, previously boiled in salted water ; 
have 12 boiled crawfish prepared, and place them between the clus- 
ters ; take two hartlets and put on to each one a few truffles and 
mushrooms and 1 crawfish ; stick the hartlets into the fish, one 3 
inches from the head, and the other 3 inches from the tail. Serve 
the fish with following sauce : Eemove the skin from 2 large ripe 
tomatoes, place them in a small saucepan over the fire, add Ya tea- 
spoonful butter, Y4 teaspoonful salt, the same of sugar and white 
pepper, cook 15 minutes without a cover ; then strain through a 
sieve. Place in another small saucepan 3 tablespoonfuls fine- 
chopped shallots, 10 coarsely pounded peppers, 4 tablespoonfuls 



18^ SEA FOOD, Etc. 

tarragon vinegar, cover and cook till nearly dry ; remove from fire, 
add gradually the yolks of 8 eggs, then set the saucepan in a ves- 
sel of hot water, add in small pieces Y2 pound butter, stirring con- 
stantly until the ingredients are well mixed; add 3 teaspoonfuls 
beef extract, Yg even teaspoonful salt, and three tablespoonfuls 
of the strained fish gravy; set the saucepan over the fire, and 
stir until the sauce thickens ; remove and strain through a sieve ; 
add 4 tablespoonfuls of the strained tomatoes, then serve with 
the fish. 

Salmon a la Richelieu. — Procure a fine salmon and cut it 
into slices about % inch thick, beginning near the head ; lay the 
slices on a deep dish, sprinkle over some salt, pour over 3 or 4 table- 
spoonfuls of olive oil, add a handful fresh parsley, 2 onions cut into 
slices, and the juice of 1 lemon ; cover and let stand 30 minutes ; 
bake the head in the oven till done with butter and a little larding 
pork. Place the salmon pieces on a hot broiler over a moderate, 
clear fire, broil light brown, first on one side, then on the other, 
brushing over occasionally with a little olive oil while broiling. 
When done remove the fish to a warm place. Take the head front 
the oven, join it with the other pieces to give the fish its original 
form again, brush it over with glaze, garnish with oysters en cassee, 
and serve with sauce Bearnaise. In place of a whole salmon, part 
of one may be taken, and served with melted butter and boiled 
potatoes. 

Salmon Grille a la Periggueux. — Cut 2 pounds fresh 
salmon into 6 slices ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt and 1 
even teaspoonful pepper ; pour a little olive oil over each slice, lay in 
a covered dish with Yg handful fresh parsley, and let remain 30 min- 
utes. Fifteen minutes before serving lay a sheet of oiled or buttered 
paper over a broiler, on this lay the salmon slices and broil on both 
sides till done (about 6 minutes on each side). Arrange the salmon 
on a warm dish, garnish with parsley, and serve with Madeira or 
truffle sauce. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 183 

Salmon a la Mariniere. — Place a well-cleaned fresh small 
salmon on the grating in a fish kettle, add 2 onions with 2 cloves 
stuck into each one, 1 carrot cut into slices, a large bouquet, 1 table- 
spoonful whole peppers, and 1 heaping tablespoonf ul salt ; add 1 
bottle of red wine and sufficient cold water to barely cover the fish ; 
place it over a strong fire, let it come quickly to a boil, then draw 
the kettle to side of stove, and let simmer till done, which will take 
about 1 or lYg hour. Shortly before serving lift out the grating 
with the fish, remove the upper skin, slide it on to a warm dish, 
garnish with fried oysters and small fish forcemeat balls, brushing 
over a little of the sauce the fish is to be served with. Serve with 
sauce matelote. 

Broiled Salmon in Paper. — Cut 273 pounds of fresh salmon 
into 6 even slices, sprinkle over 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt (see 
Salt), rub the seasoning well into the fish, and brush the slices 
over with melted butter or fine olive oil ; butter 6 sheets of white 
paper cut in the shape of a heart, inclose 1 slice in each sheet of 
paper, and twist the edges together ; lay them on a broiler over a 
moderate fire, and broil 8 minutes on each side ; then remove, and 
serve on a warm dish, leaving the paper undisturbed. 

Salmon en Papilottes. — Procure 6 slices of fresh salmon Yg 
inch thick ; pare these into oval shapes, 4 inches long and 3 inches 
wide ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pep- 
per, and place in a covered dish with 3 branches of parsley, 1 sliced 
onion, and 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice, and let stand 20 minutes. 
In the meantime place a small saucepan with 1 ounce fine-chopped 
larding pork over the fire, add Yg clove of bruised garlic, cook and 
stir 5 minutes ; then add 3 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped mushrooms, 
stir and cook 5 minutes ; season with Y4 even teaspoonful pepper, 
1 even teaspoonful salt, and remove from fire ; add Y2 tablespoonful 
fine-chopped parsley and set aside to cool ; butter 6 sheets of writ- 
ing paper, cut into heart shapes ; on one side of each sheet place 
a teaspoonful of the above preparation, over this the salmon slices, 



184: SEA FOOD, Etc. 

dividing the remaining preparation equally over the salmon ; then 
inclose with paper ; put into a baking pan and place in medium- 
hot oven ; when the papers have swollen and have obtained a fine 
light-brown color, remove the papilottes, arrange them on a warm 
dish, and serve with fried potatoes a I'allemande. 

Broiled Salmon with Sauce Bearnaise. — Procure 2 slices of 
salmon about % inch in thickness ; season with 1 even tablespoonful 
salt and the juice of Yg lemon ; lay the slices in a covered dish, 
pour over 2 tablespoonfuls olive oil ; add 1 fine-sliced onion and 2 
sprigs of fresh parsley ; cover and let lie 30 minutes. If the pure 
olive oil is not at hand, then brush the slices over with melted 
butter. Shortly before serving place the salmon on a hot broiler 
over a clear coal fire and broil till done ; transfer the salmon to a 
warm dish, stir 1 tablespoonful butter to a cream, add slowly 1 table- 
spoonful lemon juice, spread this over the fish, and serve with sauce 
Bearnaise. 

Broiled Salmon a I'Arminius. — Procure 2 pounds salmon 
and cut it into slices about Ys ii^ch in thickness ; brush them over 
with a little melted butter, then place on a hot broiler over a clear 
coal fire, and broil till done ; lay the salmon on a warm dish, stir 2 
ounces butter to a cream, add 1 even tablespoonful salt, Y? even tea- 
spoonful pepper, stir until well mixed ; then add the juice of Ya 
lemon, spread this equally divided over the fish, and serve. 

Broiled Salmon a I'Americaine. — Have 2 pounds of salmon 
cut into slices Ys i^^ch in thickness ; lay on a gridiron and broil over 
a clear coal fire, on both sides ; when done, remove from the fire, 
dress on a warm dish, sprinkle over some salt, lay over some butter 
in small pieces, set it for a few minutes in the oven, and serve. 

Cotelettes of Salmon. — Procure 2Y2 pounds of fresh salmon, 
cut it into 6 even slices, season with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning 
salt, fry three minutes on each side over slow fire in butter, then 
remove ; add to the butter in the pan 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 185 

stir a few minutes ; add 1 cupful white broth, a little mushroom 
liquor, cook and stir 3 minutes ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs, with the 
juice of Yg lemon, and add to the sauce ; remove from fire, cover each 
slice of salmon with this sauce, and set aside until cold ; then dip in 
beaten egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat light brown ; arrange 
the cdtelettes in a circle on a warm dish, place a branch of parsley 
on the end of each cotelette, pour in the center of dish an oyster 
ragout, or serve with Colbert sauce. 

All fish with firm meat may be prepared the same way. 

Salmon in Aspic. — Soak 4 ounces gelatin in 1 pint of cold 
water until soft ; place a large saucepan with 2 quarts Avhite broth 
over the fire, add 2 blades of mace, 1 bay leaf, 6 whole cloves, 13 
whole peppers, Yg pint white vinegar, and Yg teaspoonf ul salt ; boil 5 
minutes ; then add the gelatin, stir until dissolved. Beat the whites 
of 4 eggs to a stiff froth, add the juice of two lemons, and a little 
cold water, stir this into the broth, stir and boil 5 minutes ; then 
draw the saucepan to side of stove, letting it stand 5 minutes. Set 
a doubler boiler with water in the under saucepan over the fire, 
place on top of the inner saucepan a sieve, lay a napkin in the sieve, 
pour the aspic in the napkin, not too much at once, leaving the 
double boiler on the hot stove until all the aspic has been strained, 
then set aside to cool. At the same time cut 4 pounds of fresh sal- 
mon into pieces 3 inches in size, place them on the grating of a 
fish kettle, add 1 heaping tablespoonful salt, Yg cupful vinegar, 2 
onions, a bouquet, and 12 whole peppers ; cover with 2 quarts boil- 
ing water ; as soon as the fish boils, draw the kettle to side of stove, 
letting it simmer 5 minutes ; then remove the salmon, take off the 
skin, lay on a plate, and set aside. When perfectly cold, wipe it 
dry with a soft napkin. In the meantime cut with a vegetable 
cutter into fancy shapes the whites of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 boiled 
beet, and the peel of 1 lemon; have ready also some fresh green 
peas, some green pickles, small white onions, and 3 boiled crawfish. 
Then brush the inside of a plain 3-quart mold with sweet almond 



186 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

oil, turn the mold upside down for a few minutes ; then set into 
fine-cracked ice, pour in sufficient aspic to cover the bottom of the 
mold ; as soon as firm, lay a decoration over the aspic of the pre- 
pared ingredients ; put each piece separately on a larding needle, 
and dip it first into the cold aspic ; then lay in fancy designs over 
the aspic, putting the lemon alternately with the white of egg on 
the edge of the aspic, then a row of beets and peas. Lay in the 
center a boiled crawfish, which must be laid with its back down- 
ward, and everything with the best side down, so that when the dish 
is turned over it will look as if it were swimming ; round the craw- 
fish small white pickled onions (they can be bought in bottles as 
small as large peas) ; carefully pour over this a little aspic, and when 
firm add sufficient aspic to cover all. Then place 3 or 4 pieces of 
salmon over the aspic, lay in a circle around one piece of salmon 
small white onions, around the second the lemon peel with the yellow 
side downward, and around the third some green peas ; decorate the 
edge with the white of egg and beets ; carefully pour over some 
more aspic, and when firm, cover the whole again with a decoration ; 
continue with the salmon, the decoration, and crawfish till all is 
used ; then place the form on ice till firm. When ready to serve, 
lay a dish 2 inches wider than the aspic over the mold, turn the 
mold upside down on to the plate, and the aspic will slip on to the 
dish ; serve with mayonnaise. If any cold fish is left over, a dish of 
this kind may be prepared with little trouble. If white broth is 
not at hand, take two quarts boiling water and 2 teaspoonfuls beef 
extract, or the white broth can be easily prepared of a small shank 
of veal or a part of a chicken. 

Salmon, Pickled. — Boil the salmon as directed, either whole or 
a piece of salmon. Place a saucepan with 1 quart white vinegar and 
Vs pint of water over the fire ; add 12 whole peppers, 2 bay leaves, 6 
cloves, 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 2 onions cut 
into slices, and let this boil 5 minutes ; then set aside to cool ; cut 
the boiled salmon into pieces, put in a stone jar, pour the pickle 



SEA POOD, Etc. 187 

over, cover, and keep in a cool place. Any cold salmon left over can 
be used for this. Another way is to cut the fish into pieces about 
2 inches square, sprinkle with salt, roll in flour, and fry light brown 
on both sides in Yg lard and Yg butter. After the fish has cooled off 
lay in a stone pot ; put in a saucepan sufficient water and vinegar to 
cover the fish, about Y4 vinegar and Y4 water ; add a few onions cut 
into slices, some whole peppers and whole cloves, 2 bay leaves, and 
1 lemon cut into slices and freed from pits. Boil this for 5 minutes, 
and when cold pour the pickle over the fish. 

Salted Salmon, Broiled. — Place 3 pounds salted salmon in a 
vessel of cold water for 24 hours, changing the water twice during 
that time ; then place the fish with clean cold water in a kettle over 
the fire, adding 1 onion, 1 carrot, a bouquet, and Y4 cup vinegar ; 
let the fish come to a boil, then draw it to side of stove, letting it 
simmer till done ; lift it from the kettle, place it on a warm dish, 
and serve with caper sauce and boiled potatoes ; if any of the salmon 
is left, it may be chopped fine and mixed with mashed potatoes, 
taking 2 parts potatoes and 1 part salmon ; add 1 egg, form the 
preparations into small round cakes, roll them lightly in flour, and 
fry on both sides to a delicate brown in lard or drippings. 

Smoked Salmon, Boiled. — Place 2 pounds of smoked salmon 
in a saucepan over the fire and cover with cold water ; as soon as 
it begins to boil, drain ojffi the water, and cover again with fresh 
water ; when it boils again, draw the saucepan to the side of stove, 
letting it simmer about 10 minutes till done, then remove, dress on 
a warm dish, and serve with egg sauce. 

Smoked Salmon, Broiled. — Place 1 pound of smoked salmon 
in a saucepan over the fire, cover with cold water, let it come to a 
boil, then drain and wash off with clean cold water; then remove 
and cool in cold water. Shortly before serving, wipe the salmon 
dry, brush it over with melted butter, lay on a broiler, and boil 5 
minutes on each side. Stir 1 tablespoonful butter to a cream, add 
the juice of Ya lemon, Ya even teaspoouful pepper, Ys teaspoonf ul 
13 



188 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

grated nutmeg, and 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley ; spread this 
over the fish and serve. Another way is to cut the smoked salmon 
into slices Y4 inch thick, lay on a broiler over a clear fire, broil 5 
minutes on the flesh side and 1 minute on the skin side ; then ar- 
range on a warm dish, with little pieces of butter sprinkled over 
them. 

Salmon, Preserved. — Clean, wash, and cut the fish into pieces, 
sprinkle with salt, lay in a roasting pan with some butter, and roast 
until done, basting with butter. Then lay the pieces of fish in a 
stone jar, and place a board and a stone on top until cold ; 
remove board and stone, and pour clarified butter over. Or bake 
the fish in olive oil, pack in a stone jar or glass jars, and pour fine 
olive oil over. Tie up and set in a cool place. 

Salmon, Smoked. — Having cleaned the fish, split it through 
the back, remove the entrails and head, wash well and dry with a 
soft cloth. Eub the fish well with saltpeter and pepper until it 
begins to foam ; then rub over with salt, being careful not to take 
too much salt. For a fish of 6 pounds, take 2 tablespoonfuls salt, Y2 
teaspoonful pepper, and 74 teaspoonful saltpeter. Then lay the 2 
halves together again, and let the fish lie 3 days. During that time 
baste several times with the pickle, which will be under it ; then 
take out, put a tape through the place where the head was, and hang 
in the smoke ; let it remain from 3 to 4 days. It must be smoked 
well, but not dry. 

Salmon Trout is considered the finest from the end of May to 
the end of September, soon after the spawning season begins. The 
salmon trouts belong to the genus Fario (Valenciennes), having 1 
row of teeth on the vomer, the true salmon having the palate smooth ; 
the species are so called from the redness of the flesh, but all the 
trouts have this color at some period of their lives, depending prob- 
ably on their food. There are several species called salmon trout in 
lakes shut off from the sea, and near the mouths of the rivers of 
Maine. The so-called sea trout of the Gulf of St. Lawrence (Sahno 



SEA FOOD, Etc. jgg 

immaculatus^ H. E. Storer) has flesh of a fine pink color and a 
superior flavor, is sea green above, having lower parts and the fins 
white ; it rarely exceeds a weight of 7 pounds. 

Salmon Trout a la Bearnaise. — Place a good-sized, well- 
cleaned fish on the grating of a fish kettle, cover with cold water, 
add Yg pint vinegar, 2 tablespooufuls salt, 2 onions, 12 whole pep- 
pers, and a bouquet. Set the kettle over a strong fire ; as soon as it 
comes to a boil remove it to side of stove, letting simmer, not boil ; 
when done lift the grating with the fish out of the kettle, slide the 
fish on to a warm dish, garnish with 12 potatoes tortonia, and pars- 
ley, serve with sauce Bearnaise. Fish boiled in this way may be 
served with the following sauces and named after the sauce it is to 
be served with : Sauce Eegence, Genevoise, Eobert, poivrade, 
piquante, tomato, gourmets, paprika, matelote, Hollandaise, lobster, 
egg^ mustard, caper, bechamel, allemande, and maitre d'hotel. 

Salmon Trout cooked in Wine a rAllemande.— Select 

a large fresh fish weighing about 5 to 6 pounds, clean and wash, tie 
a string around the head, lay on a grating in a fish kettle, sprinkle 
over 1 heaping tablespoonful salt, cover with red wine, add 2 onions 
cut into slices, 1 large bouquet, and 12 whole peppers, and set the 
kettle over the fire ; as soon as it boils remove the kettle to side of 
stove and let it simmer till done (about 1 hour). When ready to 
serve, lift the fish out of kettle, slide it on to a warm dish, garnish 
with boiled crawfish and parsley, and serve with sauce Hollandaise. 

Salmon Trout with Mayonnaise. — Boil the fish the same as 
in foregoing recipes ; let it cool in the broth, then lift out of kettle, 
slip on to a dish, and set on ice ; when ready to serve, garnish with 
chopped aspic, and serve with mayonnaise. 

Salmon Trout ^ la CrSme. — Select a fine fresh fish weighing 
from 4 to 5 pounds, clean, wash, and wipe dry ; season with 1 heap- 
ing tablespoonful salt, equally distributed in and outside the fish ; 
let lie about 30 minutes ; lay 3 thin slices of larding pork in the 
bottom of a roasting pan ; put the fish on the grating of a fish 



190 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

kettle, place the grating with the fish in the baking pan, pour 
2 ounces melted butter over the fish, cover with buttered paper, and 
set the pan in a medium-hot oven 10 minutes ; then remove the 
paper, baste the fish with its own gravy ; add 1 pint of cream, cover 
again with the paper, return the pan to the oven, baste frequently, 
and roast till nearly done. When ready to serve carefully remove 
the fish to a warm dish, strain the sauce into a saucepan, add Yg 
cupful mushroom liquor, 6 peppers, a small bouquet, cook 10 
minutes ; add Yg teaspoonful nutmeg ; remove the bouquet ; mix 
the yolks of 3 eggs with the juice of Yg lemon, add a little of the 
sauce to the yolks, then gradually add the yolks to the sauce, not 
letting the sauce boil after the yolks have been added ; decorate the 
fish with small potato balls (a la patricia) and green parsley, and 
serve with the sauce. 

TEOUT. 

Where found, etc. — Brook or speckled trout {Salmo fontinalis^ 
Mitchill) is considered the finest from the end of May to the end 
of September in North America, is from 8 to 20 inches long. It 
is found abundantly in streams of the British provinces, the New 
England, Middle, and Western States, and is everywhere highly 
esteemed as food ; it is rarely taken weighing more than lYs pound. 
The common European brook trout {Salar fario, Valenciennes) is 
usually 10 to 14 inches long, though sometimes considerably longer, 
some having a weight of 15 pounds; it is shorter and stouter than 
the salmon, of a yellowish brown above, passing to yellow on the 
sides, and silvery below, the back spotted with reddish brown and 
the sides with bright red. The trout, both in Europe and Amer- 
ica, is a favorite subject for pisciculture from the ease with which 
artificial fecundation of the eggs can be affected. 

Trout, Fried. — Select 6 small trout, clean, wash, and wipe 
them dry ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, dust lightly with 
flour, dip them in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in half 
lard and half butter to a fine golden color; serve with melted but- 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 191 

ter and boiled or baked potatoes. Another way is to roll the fish in 
flour, cut 4 ounces larding pork into small pieces, place it in a 
pan over the fire, fry light brown, then add the fish, cook on both 
sides to a delicate brown, and serve. 

Trout, Broiled. — Clean, wash, and dry 6 small trout weigh- 
ing Y2 pound each, sprinkle over 1 even tablespoonful salt, place 
them in a covered dish, squeeze over the juice of 1 lemon, add V2 
bunch fresh parsley, cover the dish, and let it remain 1 hour ; 20 
minutes before serving, wipe the fish dry with a clean napkin, dust 
with flour, dip in melted butter, roll in grated bread crumbs ; then 
lay the fish on a hot broiler over a moderate clear fire, and broil till 
done (about 5 minutes on each side) ; arrange the fish on a warm 
dish, and serve with 3 ounces melted butter in which the juice of 
Ys lemon and 1 tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley have been 
mixed. Another way is to make 2 small incisions in the fish, brush 
them over with a little melted butter, lay on'a broiler, and cook till 
done ; remove the fish to a warm dish, stir 2 ounces butter to a 
cream, add 1 even tablespoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, 
spread this over the fish, and serve ; or season the fish with salt 
before broiling and spread 2 ounces maitre d'hotel butter over 
them. 

Trout baked in Paper. — Clean and wash 6 small trout, 
weighing each about 7^ pound, draw them through the gills, sea- 
son with salt, and stuff with the following preparation : Stir 2 
ounces butter to a cream, add Yg cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, 
1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, 1 cupful grated bread crumbs, 
1 tablespoonful fine-chopped onion previously cooked 3 minutes 
in a little butter ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 ^^^' 
spoonful pepper, then use. When the fish are all filled with this 
preparation, roll each one in buttered paper and lay them in a 
thickly buttered pan ; 20 minutes before serving, place the pan in a 
moderate oven and bake till done, turning the fish once and bast- 
ing it often. Arrange them on a hot dish, leaving the paper un- 



192 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

disturbed, and serve with its own gravy, to which a little lemon 
juice and fine-chopped parsley may be added. 

CAEP. 

Seasonable from October to April. 

Where found, etc. — Carp belongs to the family Cyprinida\ 
their size varies from Yg to 2y2 feet, and their weight from 1 to 18 
pounds ; they are considered excellent for the table ; carp inhabits 
the fresh waters, lakes, and streams of Central and Southern Eu- 
rope, whence it has spread over the northern parts ; it seems to have 
been introduced into England 300 years ago. The common carp 
has been introduced from France into the Hudson and other waters 
of New York ; it lives to a considerable age and is exceedingly pro- 
lific ; it prefers quiet waters with soft and muddy bottoms, spawn- 
ing in May or June, according to locality. They are very tenacious 
of life, and will pass a long time without food, especially in winter. 

Carp, Fried. — Scale and pare 1 or 3 carps, split them open 
lengthwise through the belly, remove the entrails, wash and wipe 
dry, then season with salt. If the fish be large cut it into 2 or 3 
pieces, if small leave whole ; beat 1 or 2 eggs till light, dip the fish 
first in the beaten e^g, then roll in cracker or bread crumbs. Place 
a frying pan with 1 tablespoonful lard over the fire, as soon as hot 
put in the fish, and fry light brown. Soak the carp milt in milk 
for ten minutes, then wipe dry ; season with salt, dip in Qgg, cover 
with cracker crumbs, and fry to a delicate brown. Arrange the 
carp on a warm dish, and lay the fried milts around. A simpler 
way is to season the fish with salt, roll in flour ; then fry light 
brown on both sides, either in larding pork, half lard and half 
butter, drippings, or oil. Garnish with 1 lemon cut lengthwise into 
pieces. 

Carp fried a la Mariniere. — Select a nice fresh carp of 3 or 
4 pounds, clean, wash, and wipe it dry ; cut it into 27o-inch-sized 
pieces, sprinkle over 2 teaspoonfuls salt and the juice of 1 lemon. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. I93 

Place the fish in a dish with 1 onion cut into slices, Y2 bunch fresh 
parsley, 1 sprig of thyme, and 2 bay leaves ; cover and let stand 30 
minutes ; remove the pieces, wipe dry with a soft napkin, and dust 
lightly with flour. Have ready some fresh grated bread crumbs 
and 1 well-beaten egg ; take each piece separately on a fork, dip 
first in the egg, then cover with the bread crumbs. Place a deep 
frying pan with 2 ounces butter and 2 ounces lard over a moderate 
fire ; as soon as hot put in as many fish pieces as will conveniently 
go in, and fry light brown on both sides ; when all are fried, arrange 
them on a warm dish and serve with sauce Tartare, or spread 2 
ounces maitre d'hotel butter over the fish and serve. 

Carp, Broiled. — Split a well-cleaned carp down the back, re- 
move the backbone, season the fish with salt, brush over with 
melted butter, and cover with bread crumbs ; lay the fish on a 
broiler over a moderate fire with the flesh side toward the fire, broil 
about 12 minutes on the flesh side, then turn over and broil 5 minutes 
on the skin side, dress the fish on a warm dish, spread over 2 table- 
spoonfuls maitre d'hdtel butter, lay the fish together again in its 
natural form, and serve. 

Carp in Polish Sauce (also called Beer Fisli). — Clean, 
wash, and cut into pieces a fish of 4 pounds, sprinkle with 1 table- 
spoonful salt, and set aside for Yg hour ; 30 minutes before serving 
put the fish in a stew pan with IY3 pint brown beer, or lager beer, 
2 cut onions, 1 bay leaf, 6 whole peppers, 1 lemon cut into slices 
and freed from pits. Place over the fire and stew slowly until done, 
then take the fish out, lay it on a warm dish. Mix 1 tablespoonful 
butter with 1 tablespoonful flour, stir it into the sauce, add 1 table- 
spoonful sugar, cook a few minutes, strain, and pour the sauce over 
the fish. In place of sugar, 1 lebkuchen may be soaked in a little 
of the fish gravy, mashed fine, and added to the sauce ; but less 
flour must be taken. 

Carp en Matelote. — Scale and clean a 4-pound carp, cut it 
into 2Y8-iiich-sized pieces ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt ; 



194: SEA FOOD, Etc. 

put the fish in a saucepan, add 1 pint of red wine, 2 onions cut 
into pieces, a large bouquet, 12 whole peppers, and 1 pint bouillon, 
or boiling water, with Yg teaspoonf ul beef extract. Set the saucepan 
over the fire ; as soon as it boils draw to side of stove and let sim- 
mer till done — about 10 minutes ; then carefully remove the fish, 
lay it in its natural form on a warm dish. Melt 1 tablespoonful 
butter, add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook, and stir 3 minutes ; strain 
the fish broth, add 1 pint of it to the flour and butter, also Ya can 
small mushrooms ; cook 15 minutes. Have ready 12 small fish force- 
meat balls boiled in salted water and 12 small white cooked onions ; 
lay the forcemeat balls, the onions, and the mushrooms around the 
fish, pour some of the sauce over, and serve the remainder in a 
sauce bowl. 

Carp, Roasted, with Crenie a la I'Allemande. — Procure a 
well-cleaned carp of 4 to 5 pounds, season it with 2 teaspoonfuls 
salt, Y2 teaspoonful pepper, sprinkle over the juice of 1 lemon ; let 
the fish lie 30 minutes. Then place in a thickly buttered baking 
pan, pour 1 ounce melted butter over the fish, and sprinkle Y2 cup 
of grated bread crumbs over the top ; pour 1 pint of sour cream in 
the pan, add 1 whole onion and 1 bay leaf ; place in a moderate 
oven, and baste frequently till done ; then lift the fish carefully to a 
warm dish, remove the fat from the gravy, and strain. Serve the 
gravy with the fish ; if too thick, add Y2 cupful boiling water and a 
little beef extract. 

Carp Roe. — Place the roe in a small saucepan, cover with water, 
add 1 small onion, a small bouquet, 1 teaspoonful salt, 3 whole pep- 
pers, and 1 tablespoonful vinegar ; boil slowly 5 minutes, then re- 
move ; place it in the same pan with the carp, and when done lay it 
around the fish. 

Carp a la Cliambord. — Select a fine fresh carp weighing about 
6 pounds, clean, wash, and wipe it dry ; remove the skin from one 
side and lard the side with truffles ; cut the truffles in small, long 
pieces and round them at one end ; then make with the pointed 



SEA FOOD, Etc. I95 

handle of a wooden spoon small holes in the flesh of the fish Y2 inch 
apart ; put the truffles into the holes so that they look like small but- 
tons. Eub 1 even teaspoonful salt inside the fish, fill with the force- 
meat described below, sew up, and rub 1 tablespoonf ul salt all over. 
Lay the fish with 3 thin slices of pork under it on a grating in a 
fish kettle, add 1 bottle of red wine, Y2 teaspoonful pepper, and as 
much bouillon as will reach half way up the fish ; add 2 onions cut 
into slices, 1 large bouquet, 12 whole peppers, and cover with but- 
tered paper. Place over the fire and cook slowly 15 minutes ; then 
remove the paper, set the kettle in the oven, bake and baste fre- 
quently until the fish has attained a nice color and is done. Lift 
the fish from the kettle, slide on to a warm dish, and place in a 
warrii place ; strain the broth into a saucepan and reduce it by 
boiling to 1 pint. Melt in another saucepan 1 tablespoonful but- 
ter, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir a few minutes ; add slowly the 
fish broth, Yg can of mushrooms, 1 sliced truffle, Y2 teaspoonful beef 
extract ; cook 15 minutes ; then add 1 teaspoonful anchovy essence 
and 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley. Lay 18 of the below-de- 
scribed small forcemeat balls in clusters with the mushrooms around 
the fish, also 12 small white glazed onions, pour a little of the sauce 
over the garnish, and serve the remaining in a sauce bowl. 

Forcemeat. — Set a small saucepan with 1 cup of milk and 1 
ounce butter over the fire ; as soon as it boils add 1 even cupful flour, 
stir until formed into a smooth paste, then remove from fire ; when 
nearly cold add the yolks of 2 eggs and 1 whole egg, then set aside 
until perfectly cold. In the meantime melt 1 ounce butter in a 
small saucepan, add 1 fine-chopped onion, Y2 small clove of bruised 
garlic ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful pepper, 
cook 3 minutes ; add Y2 cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, stir, and 
cook 5 minutes ; then remove. Add 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped 
parsley to the paste and work it well together ; take 1 pound fish 
meat, either from bass or pickerel, chop it very fine, season with 1 
teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, add it to the preparation, 
and fill the fish with this as directed above. Mix the remaining 



196 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

forcemeat with 1 fine-cliopped truffle, mold into small balls, drop 
into boiling salted water, and cook slowly 6 minutes ; then carefully 
remove and use for garnishing the fish as directed. 

SHAD. 

Where found. Etc. — It is a well-known fish of the herring 
family ; the genus comprises more than 20 species. The American 
shad obtains a length of about 20 inches, and varies in weight from 
2 to 6 pounds ; they come from the South to deposit their spawn, 
running up the rivers from the sea. They appear in Charleston in 
January, at Norfolk in February, at New York by the end of March 
or beginning of April, at Boston by the end of May. They appear 
in the Massachusetts rivers early in May, the greatest run being 
when the apple trees are in full blossom ; the old shad return to the 
sea in August, the young ones, 3 or 4 inches long, following in Septem- 
ber. It is believed that the life of a shad is limited to a single year. 
The fish are mostly eaten fresh and are delicious, the only draw- 
back being the innumerable bones ; they lose their flavor the longer 
they remain in fresh water. 

Shad, Broiled. — Split a well-cleaned shad down the entire 
back, remove the backbone, and season with 1 tablespoonf ul salt ; 
brush the fish over with a little melted butter or olive oil, let it stand 
30 minutes ; then put the fish on a broiler with the flesh side down, 
place over a clear, moderate flre, and broil about 15 minutes ; then 
turn and broil 5 minutes on the skin side. Dress the shad on a 
warm dish. Mix 1 tablespoonful butter to a cream, add the juice 
of Ya lemon, Yg teaspoonful nutmeg, and 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped 
parsley ; spread this over the fish ; garnish with parsley and 1 lemon ^ 
cut lengthwise into 6 pieces. 

Shad, Fried. — Eemove head and tail of a well-cleaned shad, 
cut it into 6 pieces ; season with 1 tablespoonful salt, distribute the 
salt evenly over the fish on both sides, let it stand Ys bour ; then roll 
each piece in flour. Cut Y2 pound of larding pork into very small 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 197 

pieces, place it in a large frying pan over the fire, and fry light 
brown ; then pour half of the pork into a small saucepan, lay as 
many of the fish pieces in the pan as will conveniently go in, and 
fry over a moderate fire light brown on both sides, adding gradually 
some of the remaining pork. When all the pieces are fried, arrange 
them on a warm dish, and serve with butter and baked potatoes. 
In place of pork, lard or drippings may be taken. 

Shad fried h I'Allemande. — Split a well-cleaned roe shad 
down the back, remove the roe and backbone, cut off the head and 
tail, and divide the fish into 6 pieces ; season with 1 tablespoonful 
salt, sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice. Lay the pieces in 
a deep dish with 1 large onion cut into slices, 3 sprigs of thyme, 2 
bay leaves, 12 whole peppers, cover and let stand 30 minutes ; then 
take the fish out, wipe dry, and dust the pieces over lightly with 
flour ; beat 2 eggs in a soupplate till light, take each piece on a 
fork, dip first into the beaten egg, then roll in grated bread crumbs ; 
pat each piece with a knife on both sides to make them nice and 
smooth ; place a large frying pan over the fire with 1 tablespoonful 
lard, 1 tablespoonful butter ; when hot, put in as many of the fish 
pieces as will conveniently go in, and fry light brown first on one 
side and then on the other. Serve with sauce Tartare a I'allemande. 

Shad Roe. — Place the roe in a saucepan, cover with cold water; 
add 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful vinegar, 1 small onion cut 
into slices, 3 whole peppers, and 1 sprig of parsley tied together with 
Y2 bay leaf, 1 clove, and a small sprig of thyme. Set the saucepan 
over the fire ; as soon as it comes to a boil, draw the saucepan to 
side of stove, let it simmer (not boil) 5 minutes ; then remove the 
roe, dip it in beaten egg and bread crumbs. Melt 1 tablespoonful 
butter in a small frying pan, put in the roe, cover and cook 5 min- 
utes on each side ; dress on a warm dish, and spread over 1 ounce 
maitre d'hotel butter. 

Shad Roe h la JardiniJsre. — Prepare the roe as in foregoing 
recipe ; cut 3 or 4 small young carrots into slices, lay over one 



198 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

another, and cut them into fine strips like straws (there should be 
Y2 cupful) ; place them in a saucepan, cover with Yg pint boiling 
water, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and boil 10 minutes ; then add % 
pint young green peas, cook until done. Mix Ys tablespoonful but- 
ter with Y* tablespoonful cornstarch ; add it to the peas with Y4 
teaspoonful salt, stir and cook 2 minutes ; remove from fire, add Yz 
tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley. Arrange the roe on a warm 
dish, pour the peas and carrots over. Have 1 pint small Ger- 
man potatoes peeled and boiled in salted water, then drained, 
returned to the saucepan with Ys tablespoonful butter, and cooked a 
few minutes. Lay them in a circle around the dish, sprinkle a little 
fine-chopped parsley over, and serve. 

Shad Roe, Broiled. — Season the roe with 1 even teaspoonful 
salt, pour over a little melted butter, let it lay 15 minutes, then put 
it on a fine wire broiler and broil over clear fire, 8 minutes on each 
side (care must be taken not to have the fire too hot). When done, 
dress the roes on a warm dish, spread 1 tablespoonful maitre d'h6tel 
butter over, and garnish with potatoes prepared as follows : Peel 3 
large potatoes, cut each one lengthwise into 6 pieces, and fry them 
light brown in boiling fat. 

Shad Roe on Toast. — Place a saucepan with 1 pint boiling 
water over the fire, add the juice of Ys lemon, 1 teaspoonful salt, 
and 2 sprigs of parsley ; lay in the roe, draw the saucepan to side 
of stove, let it stand 8 minutes, then remove. Place a small sauce- 
pan with Ys tablespoonful fine-chopped larding pork over the fire, 
and fry for a few minutes ; add Ys tablespoonful butter, put in the 
roe, cook 5 minutes on each side ; then lift out the roe, add 1 tea- 
spoonful cornstarch to the gravy, stir 2 minutes ; add sufficient 
boiling water to make a creamy sauce, next Y4 teaspoonful beef ex- 
tract, cook a few minutes, then strain and finish with a small piece 
of butter. Toast 4 small slices of bread, butter on one side ; ar- 
range on a warm dish ; cut the roe into 4 pieces, lay 1 piece on each 
slice of toast, pour over the gravy and serve. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. I99 

Sliad^ Baked. — Have a large fresh shad prepared for baking, 
season with 1 heaping tablespoonful salt and the juice of 1 lemon, 
let it lay 30 minutes ; then put 4 thin slices of larding pork in a 
baking pan, the fish on top, pour 2 ounces of melted butter over, 
and lay three thin slices of pork on top the fish. Place the pan in 
a medium-hot oven and bake till done — about 40 minutes. When 
done, remove it carefully to a warm dish, garnish with parsley and 
1 lemon cut lengthwise into 6 pieces ; serve with melted butter, 
mustard, or egg sauce. 

8had^ Baked, with Filling. — Soak 2 slices of bread in cold 
water 10 minutes, inclose in a towel, and press out all the water. 
Place a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire, add 2 
tablespoonf uls fine-chopped onion, a little bruised garlic the size of 
a pea, cook and stir 5 minutes; add Yg cupful fine-chopped mush- 
rooms and the bread, continue stirring until the bread has formed 
into a smooth paste, then remove from fire. When cold mix it 
with Y2 pound fine-chopped halibut, season with 1 teaspoonful salt, 
Y4 teaspoonful pepper, and 1 egg ; mix all well together. Split a 
well-cleaned shad down the back, remove the roe and backbone, 
wash and wipe the fish dry, rubbing in and outside with 1 heaping 
tablespoonful salt, then sprinkle over the outside and inside the juice 
of 1 lemon ; next put in the forcemeat, sew the fish together, and 
let it lie on a long dish for 30 minutes. Wash and wipe the roe 
dry, season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, lay with 1 tablespoonful 
lemon juice in a covered dish, add 1 onion cut into slices and 2 
sprigs of parsley, cover and let stand 20 minutes ; then remove, lay 
on a napkin, and roll each half in thickly buttered paper. Put 4 
slices of larding pork in a roasting pan, lay the fish over it ; place 
the roe in the same pan, pour a little melted butter over the shad, 
lay 3 slices of pork on top, cover with buttered paper, and bake till 
done (the shad about 45 minutes, the roe 30 minutes). When ready 
to serve, carefully remove the fish to a warm dish, garnish with the 
roe cut into slices, 1 lemon cut lengthwise, and parsley ; then serve. 



200 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

Shad a I'Allemande. — Select a fine roe shad, clean and split 
it down the back, take out the roe, remove all the bones, and cut it 
in half ; remove the skin and cut the fish into 12 equal-sized pieces; 
trim them half heart shape. Mix 1 tablespoonful salt with 1 tea- 
spoonful pepper, sprinkle this equally divided over the fish on both 
sides, brush each piece over with melted butter or olive oil, drop 
over the juice of 1 lemon, lay the fillets in a covered dish with 1 
sliced onion and Y4 bunch parsley ; cover and stand 30 minutes. 
In the meantime place a frying kettle with lard over the fire ; beat 
2 eggs in a bowl until light ; wipe the fish fillets dry with a soft 
towel ; roll in flour, take each piece separately on a fork, dip in the 
beaten egg, shake it for a second, drop into the boiling fat, and 
fry to a delicate brown ; then remove, lay the fish on blotting paper 
to absorb the grease, and place it in a warm place till ready to serve. 
Place the roe in a saucepan over the fire ; cover with cold water, 
add Y3 teaspoonful salt, a small bouquet, 1 small sliced onion, and 1 
teaspoonful vinegar or 2 tablespoonfuls white wine ; as soon as it 
begins to boil draw the saucepan to side of stove, and after 5 min- 
utes remove the roe, and drain it. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a 
small deep frying pan, put in the roe, cover and cook 8 minutes ; 
turn it once during that time. At the same time place in a sauce- 
pan 1 pint of young green peas (they should be young and tender) ; 
add boiling water enough to barely cover ; add 1 teaspoonful sugar, 
and cook till tender ; then add ^/^ teaspoonful salt, Y2 tablespoonful 
butter, and continue to cook 2 minutes, adding 2 tablespoonfuls 
cream. Cut the shad roe into 6 pieces, arrange them in the center 
on a warm dish, pour over the peas, and sprinkle 1 teaspoonful fine- 
chopped parsley over ; lay the shad fillets in a circle around the edge 
of dish, 1 piece overlapping the other, and serve. 

Fillet of Shad ^ la Romaine. — Procure a fine fresh shad 
weighing about 4 pounds ; split it down the entire back, cut it in 
half, remove all the bones ; cut the meat into 6 square pieces, cut 
each piece bias through the center to make 12 pieces ; trim the 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 201 

corners nicely, season with 1 tablespoonf ul seasoning salt evenly dis- 
tributed over both sides of the fish, sprinkle over the juice of 1 
lemon, lay the fish in a bowl with Y^ bunch fresh parsley and 1 sprig 
of thyme ; cover and let stand 30 minutes ; then remove, wipe the 
fillets dry, and dust lightly with flour. Beat up 1 egg in a soup- 
plate, take each fillet separately on a larding needle, dip first in the 
egg, then roll in freshly grated bread crumbs ; when all are prepared 
in this way place a frying pan over the fire with 1 tablespoonful 
lard, 1 tablespoonful butter ; when hot put in as many shad pieces 
as will conveniently go in the pan, and fry light brown on both 
sides. In the meantime break % pound of spaghetti into pieces, 
put it in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water, add Yg 
tablespoonful salt, and boil till tender. Place a saucepan with 1 
tablespoonful butter or olive oil over the fire, add 2 tablespoonfuls 
fine-chopped onion, Y2 clove of bruised garlic, cook 5 minutes with- 
out browning ; then add Ya cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, stir 
and cook 5 minutes longer ; add 1 can of tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful 
salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful sugar, cook 20 min- 
utes, then strain ; drain the spaghetti on a sieve, put into a clean 
saucepan, add the tomatoes, set for a few minutes over the fire ; then 
arrange the spaghetti on a warm dish, high in the center, lay the 
shad fillets in a circle around it, and serve. 

Shad a I'Castellano. — Split a large roe shad down the back, re- 
move the roe, and cut the fish in halves ; lay 1 side and % the roe aside ; 
remove the bones and skin from the other half, cut it into 6 pieces ; 
trim them half heart shape, sprinkle over the juice of Ys lemon, 
and 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt ; lay the fillets in a thickly 
buttered pan, pour over 1 ounce melted butter, add 2 tablespoonfuls 
white wine, and 6 fine-chopped small mushrooms ; cover the fillets 
with buttered paper, and let stand 20 minutes ; then set the pan in 
the oven and cook till done — about 10 minutes. Fry 6 pieces of 
bread of same size as the fillets in butter light brown on both sides, 
lay them on a warm dish, put a fillet on each piece, pour the roe, 



202 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

which has in the meantime been prepared as mentioned below, and the 
sauce over all, and serve. Place the shad roe in a saucepan over the 
fire, cover with cold water, add 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 slices of onion, 
a small bouquet, and Y2 tablespoonful vinegar ; as soon as it begins 
to boil draw the saucepan to side of stove and let it remain 5 min- 
utes, then drain. Place a saucepan over the fire with 1 tablespoon- 
ful fine-cut ham, Yg tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful fine- 
chopped onion, the same of chopped mushrooms, and, if handy, 1 
fine-chopped truffle, Yg teaspoonful salt, and a little pepper ; cook 5 
minutes ; add Ys cupful white wine and the boiled roe, cover and 
cook 10 minutes. At the same time melt 1 tablespoonful butter in 
another saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 2 minutes, add IY2 
cup milk, a little salt, nutmeg, a small bouquet, 6 coarsely pounded 
peppers, and a little mushroom liquor ; cook 6 minutes, then strain. 
Add the yolks of 2 eggs, mixed with Y2 cupful cream, break the roe 
in small pieces with a fork, pour over the above cream sauce, mix 
all well together, and use as directed above. 

Salt Shad, Boiled. — Soak the fish several hours in warm water. 
One hour before dressing, take it out, wash, and lay in fresh cold 
water ; then place in a kettle over the fire, with sufficient water to 
cover, and as soon as it begins to boil draw the kettle from the fire 
and let the fish simmer from 20 minutes to Ys hour ; serve Avith 
butter sauce. 

Salt Shad, Broiled. — If the shad is to be prepared for break- 
fast, soak the fish in warm water over night, take out in the morning 
and put it for 15 minutes into cold water ; wipe dry, brush it over 
with melted butter, place on a hot broiler over a moderate fire, and 
broil on both sides light brown. Lay on a warm dish, and put 
small pieces of butter over it ; set the dish for a few minutes in the 
oven, and then serve. 

SHEEPSHEAD. 
Sheepshead, Boiled.— Place a well-cleaned fresh fish on the 
drainer of a fish kettle, cover with cold water, and add for every quart 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 203 

of water 1 tablespoonf ul salt, 1 onion, a bouquet, 12 whole peppers ; 
set the kettle over the fire, and as soon as it begins to boil remove 
to side of stove, letting simmer till done. When done and ready to 
serve, lift the fish from the kettle, slide it on to a warm dish, garnish 
with parsley, and serve with Eobert or Hollandaise sauce. 

Sheepshead a la Tartare. — Place a well-cleaned sheepshead 
of from 4 to 5 pounds on the grate of fish kettle ; add 1 bottle white 
wine, a good handful salt, 2 cut onions, 1 carrot, a bouquet, 12 
whole peppers, and sufficient cold water to cover the fish ; place the 
kettle over the fire, and as soon as it begins to boil draw to side of 
stove, and let simmer till done. In the meantime prepare the 
following sauce : Melt in a saucepan V-jz ounce Butter, add 1 heap- 
ing tablespoonf ul flour, stir and cook 3 minutes; add 1 cupful 
chicken or veal broth, 3 sprigs of parsley, 6 coarsely pounded pep- 
pers, Y2 cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, a little of their liquor, Vg 
teaspoonful beef extract, 1 cupful cream or milk, and 1 even tea- 
spoonful seasoning salt, boiling slowly 10 minutes. At the same 
time, place a small saucepan with 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped 
onion and Y2 tablespoonful butter over the fire, cook 5 minutes ; 
add 1 cupful canned tomatoes, season with Yg teaspoonful seasoning 
salt, Y2 teaspoonful sugar, boil 10 minutes, then strain. Next strain 
the sauce into a clean saucepan, add the tomatoes, the juice of Y2 
lemon, and Y2 tablespoonful butter in small pieces ; set the saucepan 
a few minutes over the fire until hot ; then pour a little of the sauce 
over the fish, and serve the remaining in a sauce bowl. 

Sheepshead a la Normande. — Boil a fresh fish of 4 pounds 
as in foregoing recipe ; place 1 dozen large oysters in a saucepan 
over the fire, with Y3 cup of their liquor, add the juice of Y2 lemon, 
Y2 tablespoonful butter, Ys teaspoonful seasoning salt, and let the 
oysters come slowly to a boil ; then set aside. Melt at the same 
time 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 heaping tablespoonful 
flour, stir 3 minutes ; add Y2 pii^^ small mushrooms, Y2 cupful of the 
Ion, 
14 



204 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

per, and a small bouquet, boil slowly 15 minutes ; then remove the 
bouquet, mix the yolks of 2 eggs with the juice of Yg lemon, add 
slowly to the sauce; add lastly Yg tablespoonful butter in small 
pieces, and pour a little of the sauce over the oysters. Arrange the 
fish on a hot dish, garnish with potatoes tortonia, and the oysters ; 
serve the sauce in a sauce bowl with the fish. If wine is not handy 
or is objected to, Ys cupful of white vinegar may be taken for boiling 
the fish. 

Sheepshead a la Creole.— Season a well-cleaned 3-pound 
sheepshead with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt ; lay the fish in a 
buttered pan, pour over 2 ounces melted butter, put Yg cupful white 
wine in the pan, cover with buttered paper, set the pan in a hot 
oven to bake, basting frequently. At the same time melt 1 ounce 
butter or oil in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, 
1 fine-chopped green pepper without the seed, 1 clove of bruised 
garlic, Ys cupful chopped mushrooms, stir and cook 6 minutes ; add 
3 fresh tomatoes peeled and cut fine, 1 teaspoonful salt, and Ys even 
teaspoonful pepper ; let simmer slowly until the tomatoes are done. 
Melt in a small saucepan Ys tablespoonful butter, add Y2 table- 
spoonful flour, stir for a few minutes ; add 1 cupful boiling water, 
1 teaspoonful beef extract, cook a few minutes ; add it to the other 
ingredients in the first saucepan, continue to boil 5 minutes. When 
the fish is done, remove carefully to a hot dish, pour the sauce over 
it, and garnish with small slices of bread, cut half-heart shape, and 
fried in butter. If wine is not handy, sprinkle the juice of 1 lemon 
over the fish, and pour Y2 cupful water in the pan. Weakfish, 
pike, perch, and whitefish may be prepared the same way. 

KINGFISH. 

Where found, etc. — Kingfish, of the genus Umhrina, is of a 
dull-gray color, with silvery reflections on the side and irregular 
dark bars ; length 16 to 17 inches, weight 1 to 2 pounds ; it is a 
deep swimmer, a good table fish, and is often called whiting. It 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 205 

is rare on the New England .coast, but common in the waters of 
the Middle States. In season from May till October. It is pre- 
pared in various ways, the same as trout, carp, bass, and sole. 

Kingflsh au Grratin. — Eemove the fillets from 3 fresh fish 
weighing 1 pound each ; season with salt and pepper, fold the 
fillets double, lay in a buttered pan, sprinkle over 1 fine-chopped 
onion, Yg cupful chopped mushrooms, and pour some melted butter 
over each fillet ; put Yg cupful white broth in the pan and Y2 cupful 
white wine ; sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls bread crumbs, set the 
pan in a hot oven and bake 15 minutes ; then remove the fish to a 
hot dish. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan ; add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 cupful white broth 
and the fish gravy, cook a few minutes ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs 
with the juice of Yg lemon, add slowly to the sauce ; add Ys tea- 
spoonful beef extract, 1 even teaspoonful seasoning salt, and serve 
with the fish and boiled potatoes. 

Fillets of Kingflsh a la Tartare.— Lift the fillets from a 
medium-sized fish, remove the skin and pare the pieces into oval 
shapes ; season with salt, pepper, and lemon Juice ; let stand Ya 
hour, then dust with flour, dip into beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, 
and fry in hot fat to a fine color. Arrange the fish on a hot dish, 
garnish with parsley, and serve with Tartar sauce. 

HADDOCK. 
Where found, etc.— A soft-rayed fish of the cod family. This 
well-known species varies in length from 1 to 2 feet, and in weight 
from 2 to 6 pounds. The color is dark gray above and silvery gray 
below. The haddock is found everywhere on the American coast 
from New York to the arctic regions ; it is an excellent fish when 
eaten fresh. The spawning time is in early spring. 

Haddock, Stuffed and Baked.— Clean and wash a good- 
sized fish, wipe dry, and season with salt and pepper; put 1 fine- 
chopped onion in a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter, cook 5 



206 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

minutes ; add 4 fine-cut peeled tomatoes, 1 even teaspoonf ul pepper, 
1 even teaspoonful salt, cook 5 minutes ; then remove from fire ; 
when cold, mix it with 2 cupfuls bread crumbs, 1 whole egg, and 1 
yolk ; fill this into the fish, sew up, lay in a baking pan with 3 
slices of larding pork under the fish ; sprinkle over 1 ounce melted 
butter and the juice of 1 lemon, cover the fish with 3 thin slices of 
pork, place in a hot oven, bake and baste often till done. Serve 
the fish on a warm dish, with tomato sauce and boiled potatoes. 

Fillets of Haddock a la Maitre d'Hotel.— Eemove the skin 
and bones from a well-cleaned haddock ; cut the meat into small 
slices, season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Lay the slices in a 
covered dish with 1 or 2 sliced onions and some fresh parsley, cover 
and let them stand 1 hour. Shortly before serving, wipe the fillets 
dry and dust with flour ; dip into beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, 
and fry in hot fat to a fine color. Arrange nicely on a hot dish, 
spread a little maitre d'hotel butter over each, and serve with baked 
or boiled potatoes. 

Fillets of Haddock a la Tartare Alleraande.— Remove the 

skin and bones from a fresh fish ; cut the meat into small slices, 
season with salt and pepper, dip in beaten egg and cracker crumbs, 
fry to a fine color in hot fat ; serve on a warm dish with sauce Tar- 
tare a I'allemande. 

Fillets of Haddock a la Normande.— Prepare the fillets of 
a fresh haddock as in foregoing recipe ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs 
with Ya cup milk, a little salt, 1 teaspoonful melted butter, 2 table- 
spoonfuls flour, and the 2 whites beaten to a stiff froth ; dust the 
fish fillets with flour, take each one on a fork, dip into the batter, 
and fry to a fine color in boiling fat; drain on blotting paper. 
Arrange on a warm dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with 
sauce Normande. 

Haddock a I'ltalieiine. — Remove the skin and bones from a 
well-cleaned haddock ; cut the meat into pieces, so that each piece 
weighs 4 ounces ; season with salt and pepper, also lemon juice ; let 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 207 

marinate 1 hour. Then lay the slices into a buttered pan, pour 
a little melted butter over each fillet, cover with buttered paper, and 
bake till done in a hot oven. Melt in a saucepan 1 ounce butter, 
add 1 fine-chopped onion, Yg fine-chopped green pepper, 1 bruised 
clove of garlic; cook 6 minutes without browning; then add Yg 
can tomatoes, Y2 even tablespoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful pep- 
per, Yg tablespoonful sugar, boil 20 minutes, serve the fish on a warm 
dish, pouring the tomatoes over, and serve with boiled spaghetti 
and grated cheese. In place of butter, olive oil can be taken. 

Haddock^ Boiled. — Place a well - cleaned haddock on the 
drainer in a fish kettle, cover with cold water ; add a good handful 
salt, Y4 cup of vinegar, 1 onion, a bouquet, and 12 whole peppers ; 
as soon as it begins to boil draw the kettle to side of stove, letting it 
simmer till done ; then lift the fish out of kettle, slide it on to a 
warm dish, and serve with mustard sauce. 

Haddock, Baked. — Scale and clean a fish, stuff with forcemeat, 
sew it up, sprinkle with salt, lay in a roasting pan with a few slices 
of pork under it and some on top ; add Yg cupful water, set in a hot 
oven, pour over the juice of 1 lemon and 1 ounce melted butter, and 
bake until done, basting frequently. Garnish with parsley and cut 
lemon ; serve on a warm dish with mustard sauce. 

Dried Haddock {always in Seaso7i). —G\x.i the dried fish into 
pieces, put them in a stew pan with a bouquet, pour over sufiicient 
boiling water to cover, put the cover on, and let the fish remain in 
the boiling water without boiling for 10 or 15 minutes. Take out, 
put on a warm dish, spread over some butter, season with salt and 
pepper, and serve. 

RED SNAPPER. 

Where found, etc.-^Red snapper, of the family ScUrogenidcB, 
attains a length of from 1 to 2 feet ; the color of the living fish is bright 
red with a black blotch on the posterior part of the gill covers. It 
is found on both sides of the Atlantic, and on the American coast 
from New York to the far North ; is called rose fish, perch, and red 



208 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

snapper, and is abundant in Newfoundland, being in season from 
October to May. It is considered best when baked or steamed, or 
can be prepared in various ways the same as perch. 

Red Snapper a la Bearnaise. — Select a fresh fish 6 pounds 
in weight ; clean, wash, and wipe dry ; season with 2 tablespoonf uls 
salt, 1 teaspoonf ul white pepper, and the juice of 1 lemon ; cut 3 
onions into slices, lay half the slices on the drainer of a fish kettle, 
place the fish on top of it, lay the remaining slices inside and on 
top ; add Yg bunch parsley and 2 sprigs of thyme ; put the drainer in 
the fish kettle, cover and let it stand 1 hour. Lift the fish out of the 
kettle, remove onions, parsley, and thyme, lay 4 slices larding pork 
in the bottom of the kettle, also a few slices of pork on top of drainer ; 
lay the fish on top of the pork, pour 1 ounce of butter over the fish, 
and lay 1 ounce of butter inside of fish. Put 2 tablespoonfuls lard 
in the bottom of the kettle, cover the fish with buttered paper ; then 
put on the cover, place the kettle over a moderate fire, and cook slowly 
till done, which will take 1 hour. When ready to serve, slip the 
fish on to a warm dish, garnish with parsley and fried oysters or 
scallops, serve with sauce Bearnaise or egg sauce. (Care must be 
taken not to have the fire too hot ; the fish needs no basting and no 
water, and will cook to perfection in the time stated.) 

Red Snapper, Stuffed and Baked.— Select a fish weighing 
about 5 pounds ; clean, wash, and dry it, season with 2 tablespoon- 
fuls salt and the juice of 2 lemons, letting it lie 1 hour. In the 
meantime prepare the forcemeat as follows : Place a saucepan with 
1 tablespoonful butter over the fire, add 1 finely chopped onion, 1 
clove of bruised garlic, and fry this for a few minutes ; add 1 heaping 
tablespoonful flour, stir 3 minutes ; add Yg cupful meat broth, cook 
and stir till thick. Eemove from fire, and when cold mix it with 1 
pound finely chopped fresh codfish or halibut ; season with 1 table- 
spoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper, a little Cayenne, Yg cup of mush- 
rooms, 1 teaspoonful English mustard, 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped 
parsley, the yolks of 3 eggs ; mix all well together ; then fill into the 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 209 

fish, sew up. Lay the fish in a long roasting pan with 4 slices of larding 
pork underneath and a few slices of pork on top of the fish ; pour 
over a few spoonfuls melted butter ; place the pan in oven and roast 
till done ; then carefully remove to a hot dish, and serve with sauce 
Hollandaise. 

WHITEBAIT. 

In season from April to Septemler. 

A small fish of the herring family; in great repute with epi- 
cures ; it is from 3 to 6 inches long, pale ashy green above, sides 
and lower parts unspotted white at all seasons. 

Whitebait ^ la Tartare AUemande. — Prepare 3 pounds of 
fish the same as for broiling. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Y2 cup- 
ful milk, Y4 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful melted butter, 2 table- 
spoonfuls flour, and the whites beaten to a stiff froth ; wipe the fish 
dry, dust with flour, dip in the batter, and fry in boiling fat ; serve 
on a warm dish, garnish with parsley, and serve with sauce Tartare 
allemande. 

Whitebait, Fried. — Clean, wash, and wipe the fish dry, sea- 
son with salt, roll in flour, and fry in hot fat. Dress on a warm 
dish, add to 2 ounces melted butter, the juice of 1 lemon, and 1 tea- 
spoonful chopped parsley ; pour this over the flsh, and serve with 
white and brown bread and butter, or with German fried potatoes. 

Whitebait, Broiled. — Season the well-cleaned fish with salt, 
pepper, and lemon juice, add 1 sliced onion, let marinate 1 hour ; 
then wipe dry, dip in melted butter, roll in fresh grated bread 
crumbs, lay on a hot broiler, and broil over a moderate, clear fire 5 
minutes on each side. Dress on a warm dish, spread a little maitre 
d'hotel butter over each fish, and serve either with white and brown 
bread or French fried potatoes. Another way is to dust the fish 
with flour, dip into beaten egg^ roll in cracker crumbs, and fry in 
hot fat. 



210 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

WHITEFISH. 
Where found, etc. — A member of the salmon family, it is 
found in the Great Lakes, from Lake Erie to the Arctic Sea, in 
Lake Champlain, in the small lakes of Canada connected with the 
St. Lawrence on the south side, and in the Mackenzie and other 
rivers flowing into the icy sea. It attains a length of V-j^ to 2Y2 feet 
and a weight of 3 to 10 pounds, becoming very large and fat in 
the clear water of Lake Superior ; its general appearance is shad- 
like, whence it is called lake shad at Burlington, Vt. It is bluish 
gray on the back, lighter on the sides, and white below ; the flesh is 
bluish white, changing to a pure white when cooked. In October 
it enters the rivers to spawn, returning in 3 or 4 weeks. 

Whiteflsli, Broiled.— Split a well-cleaned white fish through 
the back, wash and wipe dry ; brush over with a little melted butter 
or oil, lay the fish with the meat side downward on a broiler, and 
broil over a clear fire, 10 minutes on the meat side and 5 minutes 
on the skin side. When done remove the fish to a hot dish ; mix 2 
ounces butter with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt, add the 
juice of Ya lemon, spread this over the fish, and serve with baked pota- 
toes and boiled tomatoes. Weakfish can be prepared the same way. 

WEAKFISH. 

In season from the middle of June to the end of Octoher. 

Where found, etc. — A spiny-rayed fish, of the genus Otolithus^ 
resembling the perch ; the common weakfish is from 1 to 2 feet 
long. This was formerly one of the most common marine fishes in 
Vineyard and Long Island Sounds, but is now less abundant ; it has 
been taken in the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Gulf of Mexico ; it 
often accompanies the bass. 

Fish a la Rothschild. — Take either weakfish or carp ; choose 
a fish of 2Y2 pounds, remove head and tail, cut the fish into G pieces, 
lay on a dish, sprinkle over 1 tablespoonful salt, let stand 30 min- 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 211 

utes ; then place in a saucepan, cover with IY2 pint water, Y2 pint 
white vinegar, 3 fine- cut onions, 1 bay leaf, 3 cloves, 8 whole pep- 
pers, 1 blade of mace, a handful of seedless raisins, small stick of 
cinnamon, and Yg lemon cut into lengths or slices and freed from 
the pits ; as soon as it begins to boil draw the saucepan to side of 
stove and let simmer till done ; then carefully remove to a warm 
dish. Mix IY2 tablespoonful butter with IY2 tablespoonful flour, add 
it to the fish broth, add 1 tablespoonful sugar, stir and cook 5 min- 
utes ; then strain into a clean saucepan ; return some of the raisins 
to the sauce, and pour it over the fish ; serve with potato dumplings 
or potato croquettes. 

Fish a la Polonaise. — Procure a weakfish weighing 2Y3 
pounds, clean, wash, and cut it into 6 pieces ; sprinkle over 1 
tablespoonful salt, lay on a dish and pour over Y2 cup vinegar ; let 
stand Y2 ^ouT ; then place the fish with the vinegar in a saucepan, 
cover with water, add 1 onion, 6 whole peppers, and a bouquet, and 
set the saucepan over the fire ; as soon as it commences to boil draw 
to side of stove, and let simmer till done, which will take about 10 
minutes. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir for a few minutes ; add 1 pint of the fish water, 
1 teaspoonf ul ground ginger, cook 5 minutes ; remove the fish to 
a warm dish, and strain the gravy over it. Carp or bluefish may be 
prepared in the same way. 

Baked Fish. ^ la Rachel. — Procure a fish of 3 pounds, either 
weakfish, carp, or bluefish, clean and cut into 3-iuch pieces, sea- 
son with 1 tablespoonful salt, and let stand 30 minates. Chop 
fine 2 good-sized white onions and cut Y2 lemon into slices, remov- 
ing pits ; butter a pudding dish large enough to receive the fish ; 
put in a layer of the fish pieces, sprinkle over some of the onions, 
add 1 tablespoonful butter in small pieces and 1 teaspoonful cara- 
way seeds ; continue in this way in alternate layers until all is used, 
pour over sufficient vinegar to nearly cover ; then bake in oven till 
done (about 40 minutes), and serve in the same dish. 



212 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

Weakfish, Baked. — Clean, wash, and wipe a 3-pound fresh 
fish, season it with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, sprinkle over the 
juice of 1 lemon, cut 1 large onion into slices, and lay them inside 
the fish ; cover and let it stand 1 hour. Forty minutes before serv- 
ing lay 4 thin slices of pork in the bottom of a roasting pan, remove 
the onions, and place the fish on top of the pork. Lay iVz ounce 
butter inside the fish, and pour 1 ounce melted butter all over ; cover 
the top of fish with 3 thin slices of larding pork, set the pan in a hot 
oven, and bake till done, basting occasionally with its own gravy. 
When done remove the fish carefully to a warm dish, garnish with 
fried tomatoes, serve with mustard sauce and boiled potatoes. 

Weakflsh, Fried. — Procure a fresh fish of SVg pounds, clean, 
wash, and split it through the back, remove head and tail, cut each 
half into 3 pieces, season them with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning 
salt, let lie Yg hour, then roll the fish pieces in flour, and fry in hot 
lard or larding pork, light brown on both sides and well done. 
Serve on a warm dish, garnish with parsley and cut lemon. Or 
dust the fish with flour, then dip them first into beaten egg, then 
roll in cracker or bread crumbs, and finish the same as above. 

Fillets of Weakfisll. — Clean and wash a fresh fish of 2^/^ 
pounds, remove head and tail, split the fish through the back, re- 
move all the bones, and cut the meat into 6 fillets ; season these 
with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt, sprinkle over the juice of 
Ya lemon, and set aside. Twenty minutes before serving wipe the 
fillets dry, dust with flour, dip into beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs ; 
lay the fillets on a clean board, and pat them smooth with a knife. 
Place a frying pan with 1 ounce pure lard and 1 ounce butter over the 
fire ; as soon as hot put in as many fillets as will conveniently go in, 
fry light brown on both sides, adding more lard and butter if neces- 
sary. Arrange the fish on a hot dish, spread over 1 ounce maitre 
d'hotel butter, and serve with potatoes a la crtime. 

Weakfish h la Tartare. — Remove the fillets from a 3- 
pound fresh fish, cut the fillets into 6 pieces, pare nicely, and season 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 213 

■with 1 tablespoonf ul seasoning salt ; dip the fillets into melted but- 
ter, roll in bread crumbs, lay on a broiler, and broil over a moderate 
clear fire 6 minutes on both sides or till done. Arrange the fillets 
nicely on a hot dish, garnish with parsley and potatoes a la patricia, 
and serve with sauce Tartare. 

PERCH. 

Li season from September to May. 

"Where found, etc. — Perch belongs to the Percidm^ a very ex- 
tensive family of acanthopterous fishes ; 14 species, all fresh- water 
fishes, are described. The yellow perch attains a length of 12 to 15 
inches and a weight of 273 pounds, though most specimens are 
below 10 inches ; it is generally distributed in the lakes, ponds, and 
streams of the Northern and Middle States and of the British 
provinces. It is easily taken with the hook or net, and is an excel- 
lent fish for the table. Salt-water perch varies exceedingly in size 
and color, being from 6 to 16 inches long ; it is an excellent pan 
fish, and is taken in great numbers from June to October. There 
are 26 species of sea perch belonging to the genus Serranus. 

Perch broiled a I'Americaine.— Scale, clean, wash, and 
dry the fish ; if large, split in two and broil over a clear fire ; when 
done remove to a warm dish. Stir 2 ounces of butter with 1 even 
tablespoonful salt and Y3 teaspoonful white pepper to a cream, 
spread it over the fish, set the dish for a minute in a hot oven, and 
serve ; garnish with cut lemon and green parsley. 

Percll broiled ^ la Fran^aise. — Remove all skin and bones 
from a good-sized fish, cut the meat into 2V3-inch-long pieces, pare 
them nicely, season with salt and lemon juice, lay some slices of 
onion and parsley between them, cover, and set aside 1 hour. Then 
wipe the pieces dry, dip into melted butter, then into fine bread 
crumbs, lay on a hot broiler, and broil over a slow fire on both sides 
light brown and well done. Serve with tomato sauce, or lay them 
on a round dish like a border and pour in the center a ragout of 



214 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

oysters or lobster ; or serve with any other kind of sauce. All fish 
of delicate meat may be prepared the same way. 

Perch stewed a I'Anglaise. — Clean, wash, and dry the fish ; 
lay in a stewpan, add salt, a bouquet, some whole pepper, 1 clove 
of bruised garlic, half water and half sherry wine enough to cover 
the fish ; stew slowly till tender. When done take the fish out, lay 
on a long dish ; thicken the gravy with a piece of butter rolled in 
flour; strain, add 1 tablespoonful anchovy essence, and pour over 
the fish. 

Perch, Fried. — Scale and clean the fish and, if small, fry whole ; 
if large, split it and cut each side in 2 pieces, sprinkle with salt, 
roll in flour, and fry in hot lard or pork. Or dip into beaten egg 
and then in cracker dust or bread crumbs, and fry. 

Perch a la Maitre d'Hotel. — After the flsh is cleaned remove 
skin and bones, cut the meat into 2-inch-square pieces, shape, and 
lay them in a thickly buttered pan ; season with salt and lemon 
juice and cover with buttered paper. Shortly before serving, set the 
pan in the oven and bake until done ; lay the fish for a few minutes 
on white blotting paper to absorb the butter. Serve on a warm dish 
with sauce a la maitre d'hotel poured over. All fish of delicate 
meat can be prepared in the same way. 

Perch a la Polonaise. — After the fish has been well washed 
and cleaned pour over some vinegar, put it into a fish kettle of boiling 
salted water to which a little vinegar has been added. When boil- 
ing again draw the kettle to the side of stove and let it stand half 
covered about 10 to 20 minutes, until done. W'hen done lay the fish 
on a warm, long dish ; chop fine 2 hard-boiled eggs, add them to 4 
ounces melted butter, the juice of Yg lemon, 1 teaspoonful fine- 
chopped parsley, and Yg teaspoonful nutmeg ; pour this over the fish 
and serve. 

Fillets de Perches ^ la Tilleroi. — Remove the skin and 
bones of a well-cleaned fish, cut the meat into small fillets about 2 
inches square, sprinkle with a little salt, and fry slowly in butter 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 215 

half done. After cooling off dip each piece first into thickly 
boiled Villeroi sauce, then in fine bread crumbs, next in beaten egg, 
and lastly into fine bread crumbs again ; fry them in boiling fat to 
a fine golden color. Lay the fillets for a few minutes on blotting 
paper to absorb the grease ; serve on a warm dish and garnish with 
fried parsley. All fish of delicate meat may be prepared in the same 
way. 

Percli au Gratin. — Clean, wash, and dry the fish, lay in thick- 
ly buttered pan, season with salt, add 1 pint of white wine, cover 
with buttered paper, put the pan over the fire ; as soon as it boils 
set in the oven and baste frequently. Chop fine 3 onions, 6 mush- 
rooms, and 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, stew in 1 ounce butter 
10 minutes ; put half of this in a round dish and lay the fish over 
it. Add to the remaining mushrooms and onions a few spoonfuls 
Spanish sauce and a little of the fish gravy ; pour it over the dish, 
cover with bread crumbs, pour a little melted butter over, and bake 
a few minutes in a hot oven ; then serve with Spanish sauce. Pike 
and other fish may be prepared in the same way. 

Fillets of Percli a la Joinville. — Clean, wash, dry, and skin 
the fish, remove the bones, cut the meat into small fillets, shape 
them, and put over one side a thin layer of fish forcemeat to which 
some fine herbes and fine-minced boiled beef's tongue have been 
added ; pack it even with a knife, lay the fish in a thickly buttered 
pan, and cover with a buttered paper. About 15 minutes before 
serving set the pan in a hot oven and bake until the fish is done. 
Arrange the fillets in a circle on a warm dish, pour in the center lYg 
pint of boiled asparagus tops, pour over 1 pint of sauce veloutee, 
and serve. 

Perch with Oysters. — Eemove the skin and bones of a me- 
dium-sized perch, cut the meat into small fillets about 2V2 inches 
square, shape them nicely ; sprinkle with salt, dip in beaten egg and 
powdered cracker, and fry in butter light brown ; arrange on a 
dish in the form of a border, and pour in the center an oyster ragout. 



216 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

Fillets of Perch Frite. — Have a good-sized perch cleaned and 
washed, remove skin and bones, cut the meat into small fillets about 
2 inches square ; season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, and set 
aside 20 minutes. Before serving wipe the fillets dry and roll in 
flour ; beat up 2 eggs, take each piece separately on a fork, dip in 
the egg and drop into boiling lard ; fry to a delicate brown. Lay them 
on blotting paper, and serve on a napkin with lobster or crab sauce. 
Sole, pike, weakfish, and flounders may be prepared in the same way. 

Perch a la Bechamel. — Scale, clean, and wash a medium- 
sized fish, remove skin and bones, cut the meat into pieces about 
2Y2 inches square, season with salt, and lay in a thickly buttered 
pan ; pour over the juice of 1 lemon and 2 ounces melted butter ; 
set in a hot oven to bake. As soon as done take them out ; add to 
the gravy 1 pint of bechamel sauce, boil until the sauce is somewhat 
thick ; beat up the yolks of 2 eggs with a little cream, and add to 
the sauce. Put a layer of fish forcemeat in a deep pie dish, bake it 
in the oven about 10 minutes ; lay half of the fish on to the force- 
meat, pour some of the sauce over, then the remaining half of the 
fish and some more sauce; sprinkle thickly with grated Parmesan 
cheese, drop a little melted butter over, and bake in the oven until 
light brown ; then serve. Pike, weakfish, sole, or flounder can be 
prepared in the same way. 

PIKE. 

In season from Septemher to April. 

Where found, etc. — Pike is the common name of the soft- 
rayed abdominal fishes of the family Esocidce. Their principal loca- 
tion is in North America, only one species being found in Europe 
and in the temperate zone in Asia ; it is confined to fresh water, 
and to the northern hemisphere. The body is elongated and scaly ; it 
rarely exceeds 3 feet in length or a weight of 12 to 20 pounds ; young 
pikes or pickerels are of a greenish hue, their color varying at all 
ages. The pike inhabits most of the rivers and lakes in Europe. 
The common pike of the Northern States attains a length of 1 to 2 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 217 

feet ; the long or shovel-nosed pickerel attains a length of 1 to 2 
feet. The color varies in different localities, but the body is mostly 
greenish above and golden yellow on the sides. 

Pike, Boiled. — Select a fresh fish weighing from 3 to 4 pounds, 
clean and wash it, lay it on the drainer in a fish kettle, cover with 
cold water ; add 2 tablespoonf uls salt, Yi cup white vinegar, 1 fine- 
cut onion, a bouquet, and 13 whole peppers ; set the kettle over the 
fire ; as soon as it begins to boil, draw the kettle to side of stove, 
and let simmer till the fish is done ; then lift the pike out of kettle, 
slide it on to a warm dish ; garnish with parsley and cut lemon. 
Serve with horseradish or mustard sauce. 

Pike, Collared. — Scale and clean the pike, and fasten its tail 
in its mouth by means of a skewer ; lay it in a thickly buttered pan, 
sprinkle with salt ; add Yg pint white wine, 1 bay leaf, a little thyme, 
and 2 onions. Set the pan in the oven, baste freely, and let the fish 
bake until done ; serve with oyster sauce. 

Pike, stewed. — Take a fresh fish weighing 3 pounds, clean, 
wash, and cut it into pieces; season with 1 heaping tablespoonf ul 
salt, and let it lie 1 hour. Place the fish in a saucepan, add 1 pint 
white wine, 1 pint water, 3 fine-cut onions, 2 bay leaves, 4 cloves, 6 
whole peppers, 1 lemon cut into slices and freed from the pits ; 
place over the fire ; as soon as it commences to boil, draw the sauce- 
pan to side of stove, and let simmer slowly (about 15 minutes) till 
done. Remove the fish to a warm dish ; melt 2 ounces butter in a 
saucepan, add 1 tablespoonf ul flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; strain 
the fish broth, add to the butter and flour, boil 5 minutes ; mix the 
yolks of 2 eggs with 1 tablespoonful sugar, add a little of the sauce 
to the yolks, then add the yolks to the sauce, and pour it over the 
fish. Perch or weakfish can be prepared in the same way. 

Pike Farci. — Procure a medium-sized fresh pike, clean and 
wash it, split the fish through the back, remove the back bone, wash 
and wipe it dry; season the fish inside with salt, and set aside. 
Melt 1 ounce of butter in a saucepan, add 1 fine-chopped onion, 



218 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

cook 3 minutes ; then add Y2 cupful fine-cut mushrooms, and 3 fine- 
cut boneless anchovies, cook and stir 3 minutes; add Y2 cupful 
bread which has been soaked and pressed out in cold water ; stir 
until the bread has formed into a smooth paste. Kemove, and when 
cold mix with the yolk of 1 egg and 1 whole egg, Y2 pound fine- 
chopped fish meat, either of bass, white fish, or pickerel ; season 
with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, 1 teaspoonful 
chopped parsley. Stuff the pike with this forcemeat, sew it up ; 
remove the skin from one side of the fish, lard the exposed meat 
with small strips of larding pork, sprinkle over some pepper and salt. 
Lay the fish on a drainer into a deep baking pan, with a few slices of 
larding pork under the fish ; add 1 onion cut in slices, 1 bouquet, 6 
whole peppers, 1 pint red wine, and 1 pint of white broth ; cover 
with buttered paper, place the pan in .a hot oven, and baste fre- 
quently. When nearly done, remove the paper, continue the bak- 
ing and basting until the fish is brown and glossy. Then lift the 
fish out of the pan, slide on to a warm dish, garnish with baked toma- 
toes stuffed with rice and small glazed onions. Serve with horse- 
radish or mustard sauce. 

Pike^ Stuifed and Baked.— Select a medium-sized fresh fish, 
clean, wash, and wipe it dry ; season with salt and pepper ; fill with 
well-seasoned forcemeat, sew up. Truss the pike into the shape of 
the letter S ; make 2 incisions on each side, lay in a roasting pan, 
with 3 thin slices of larding pork underneath ; pour over the juice 
of 1 lemon and 2 ounces melted butter ; add Y2 carrot cut into 
slices, a bouquet, 1 sliced onion, Ys cupful broth (or boiling water 
with a little beef extract), Ys cupful white wine or claret ; cover the 
pike with buttered paper ; set the pan in a hot oven, basting fre- 
quently. When done, lift out of pan, lay on a hot dish ; strain the 
gravy. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 
for a few minutes ; add 1 cupful boiling water, 1 teaspoonful beef 
extract, the strained fish gravy, boil 5 minutes ; add the juice of Y2 
lemon, a small piece of butter, and a little Cayenne pepper (if the 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 219 

sauce is too tliick, add more boiling water or broth) ; if necessary, 
add more salt ; pour a little of the sauce over the fish, and serve the 
remaining in a sauce bowl. Weakfish, haddock, and bluefish may 
be prepared in the same way. 

Pike with Sauerliraut. — Wash 1 quart sauerkraut in cold 
water, place it in a saucepan over the fire, add % cupful lard, cover 
with boiling water, and boil till done. In the meantime split a well- 
cleaned 3-pound pike through the back, remove the skin and bones, 
cut the meat into 2-inch pieces; season with salt and pepper; 
dip the pieces into beaten egg, roll in fine bread crumbs, and fry 
light brown in butter. When the sauerkraut is done, pour it into 
a sieve, drain off the water ; return the kraut to saucepan, add 1 
tablespoonful butter and Yg cupful white wine ; set the saucepan 
over the fire and cook 10 minutes. Butter a pudding dish, put in a 
layer of sauerkraut, then a layer of fish ; continue in alternate layers 
till all is used ; let the last layer be kraut. Mix 3 well-beaten eggs 
with Ya piiit of sour cream, pour over the kraut ; sprinkle over 3 
tablespoonfuls bread crumbs and a little melted butter. Set in hot 
oven and bake light brown ; serve with boiled potatoes. ' 

Fillets of Pike a la Mariniere.— Eemove the fillets from 2 
small fish, cut them into 6 or 8 pieces, season with 1 even table- 
spoonful seasoning salt and the juice of 1 lemon. Lay the fillets 
in a buttered pan, pour over each a little melted butter, cover with 
buttered paper, and set for 1 hour in a cool place. Prepare a fish 
essence of the heads and bones (see Essence). Twenty minutes be- 
fore serving, place in a hot oven, and bake till done ; then remove 
the fillets to a warm dish, add 1 tablespoonful flour to the fish 
gravy, stir for a few minutes over the fire ; add 1 cupful white broth, 
Ys cupful of the fish essence ; add Y2 can small mushrooms, and cook 
^ slowly 10 minutes ; then add 1 pint of prepared shrimps, the juice 
of Ys lemon, a small piece of butter, and 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped 
parsley. Boil at the same time 12 small forcemeat balls in salted 
water, pour the above preparation in the center of a warm dish, 
15 



220 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

add the forcemeat balls, and lay the fish fillets in a circle around 
the ragout. 

Fillets of Pike with Fines Herbes. — Remove the skin and 
bones from 2 small pikes, cut the meat into 6 or 8 fillets, season with 
1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt, lay in a buttered pan ; sprinkle 
over the juice of 1 lemon, 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, the 
same of mushrooms ; pour 2 ounces melted butter over the fillets, 
cover with buttered paper ; place the pan in a hot oven, baste fre- 
quently, and bake till done. In the meantime place the fish bones 
in a saucepan over the fire, add Yg cupful white wine, or Y4 cup of 
vinegar, a little salt, 1 fine-cut onion, 13 whole peppers, 2 cloves, a 
sprig of thyme, and 1 pint cold water, boil Yg hour, then strain. 
Shortly before serving, remove the fish to a warm dish, add to the 
gravy in pan 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook on top 
the stove for a few minutes ; add 1 cupful white broth and 1 cup- 
ful of the fish broth, cook 5 minutes (if too thick add a little more 
broth) ; pour a little of the sauce over each fillet and serve the re- 
mainder in a sauce bowl with the fish. 

Pike Pastete. — Clean and wash a medium sized fish, remove 
skin and bones, cut the meat into lYs-inch-square pieces; sprinkle 
with salt and pej)per, fine-chopped parsley, and lemon juice, and set 
aside for 1 hour. Melt a piece of butter in a pan, put the fish 
pieces in, and fry half done. Prepare some fish forcemeat. Re- 
move skin and bones of 1 small pike, mince the meat fine ; melt Y4 
pound butter, add 2 penny rolls previously soaked and pressed out 
in cold water, stir for 5 minutes over the fire; when cold, mix it 
with the fish, add 2 whole eggs and the yolks of 2, IY2 tablespoon- 
ful anchovy butter (or 6 fine-minced anchovies), 3 tablespoonfuls 
Parmesan cheese ; season with salt and pepper. Butter a deep pie 
dish, lay the forcemeat and fish in the dish alternately in layers, and 
cover with rich pie crust ; cut in the center a hole ; place the pie in 
the oven and bake 1 hour. (If the pie should be too brown, cover 
with buttered paper). When done draw the pie to front of oven; 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 221 

have ready 1 pint of caper sauce, and ' pour it into the hole of the 
top crust ; let the pie remain a few minutes, and then serve. In 
place of pike, any other fish may be taken. 

POMPANO. 

Seasonable in May, June, July, Novemher, and December. 

Pompano, its Description. — One of the best table fish that 
we have in the market ; it may be prepared in different ways, the 
same as carp, trout, perch, flounders, and sole. 

Pompano a I'AlIemande. — Eemove the fillets from a medium- 
sized fish, cut and pare into 6 oval-shaped pieces; season with salt 
and pepper, place in a buttered pan ; add Vs piii^ white wine, 1 
small onion, a bouquet, 6 whole peppers ; cover with buttered paper 
and bake in a hot oven, basting frequently. Melt 1 tablespoonful 
butter in a saucepan ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 
minutes ; add 1 cupful white broth, Yg cupful of the fish gravy, y^ 
cup of mushroom liquor, a small bouquet, 6 coarsely pounded pep- 
pers, 1 even teaspoonf ul salt, and cook 6 minutes ; then strain into 
a clean saucepan ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Y4 cupful cream, 
add it slowly to the sauce ; add lastly 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. 
When the fillets are done, arrange them on a warm dish and pour 
over the sauce. Serve with mashed potatoes, or garnish the dish with 
potato croquettes. All fish with delicate meat can be prepared in 
the same way. 

Pompano Teronitia. — Eemove the fillets from 3 fresh pom- 
panoes of IY2 pound each ; season with salt, pepper, and lemon 
juice ; put for 1 hour in a covered dish with 1 sliced onion, 2 sprigs 
of thyme, Y3 bunch parsley, 1 clove of garlic. Twenty minutes be- 
fore serving, wipe the fillets dry, fold double, dip in beaten e^g, roll 
in fresh bread crumbs. Lay the fillets in a thickly buttered pan, 
pour over 2 ounces melted butter and the juice of 1 lemon ; cover 
with buttered paper, set the pan in a hot oven, and bake till done. 
Put Ys pint of canned tomatoes in a saucepan, add 1 teaspoonf ul 



222 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

butter, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, the same of salt aud sugar, cook 10 
minutes ; then strain. Place in another small saucepan 1 fine-cut 
onion, 3 tablespoonfuls tarragon vinegar, 8 coarsely pounded pep- 
pers, set the saucepan over the fire, and reduce by boiling till nearly 
dry ; then remove from fire. When cold add the yolks of 4 eggs, 
set the saucepan in hot water, add 4 ounces butter in small pieces, 
and stir constantly ; add 4 tablespoonfuls water, 1 teaspoonful beef 
extract, 1 even teaspoonful salt ; set the saucepan over the fire and 
stir till the sauce begins to thicken ; then strain through a sieve, 
add the strained tomatoes and 3 tablespoonfuls of whipped cream ; 
pour the sauce on to a warm dish, arrange the fillets over it, and 
serve with French fried potatoes ; or garnish with small slices of 
bread fried in butter. Carp, trout, perch, and red snapper may be 
prepared in the same way. 

BLUEFISH. 

In season from the heginning of May to the end of September. 

Blueflshj Baked. — Clean, wash, and wipe a fresh 4-pound 
bluefish, season inside and outside with salt and pepper ; lay in a 
dish with two onions cut into slices, Ys bunch parsley, the juice of 1 
lemon, cover, and let it lie 1 hour ; then remove, fill with fish force- 
meat, sew up, and place in a baking pan with a few slices of lard- 
ing pork under it, pour over 2 ounces melted butter, and lay 3 thin 
slices of pork on top of the fish ; cover with buttered paper, and 
place the pan in a hot oven to bake, baste occasionally with its own 
gravy. When done remove the fish carefully to a warm dish, gar- 
nish with parsley, and serve with boiled potatoes and sauce Holland- 
aise or ^^g sauce. 

Blueflsh, Fried. — Split a well-cleaned bluefish through the 
back, cut each half into 3 pieces, season with 1 tablespoonful sea- 
soning salt, letting lie V2 hour ; then roll the fish in flour ; melt 1 
tablespoonful lard or fat in a frying pan, when hot put in as many 
fish pieces as will conveniently lie in the pan, and fry light brown 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 223 

on both sides ; when all are fried arrange them on a hot dish, and 
serve with French fried potatoes and mustard sauce, or without any 
sauce. Bluefish fried in larding pork is excellent. 

Broiled Blueflsli with Butter a rAllemande.— Split a 

well-cleaned bluefish of 3 pounds through the back, wash, and. 
wipe it dry, brush each half over with melted butter, lay the fish on 
a hot broiler with the meat side toward the fire, and broil over clear 
moderate fire 10 minutes ; then turn and broil 5 minutes on the 
other side. In the meantime mix 2 ounces butter with 1 even 
tablespoonful seasoning salt, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, and 1 
teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley. Arrange the fish on a warm dish, 
spread the butter over, and serve with baked potatoes. 

Blueflsli a la Bearnaise. — Split a well-cleaned bluefish of 
3 pounds in weight through the back, remove the skin and bones, 
cut the meat into 6 pieces, season them with 1 even tablespoonful 
salt, sprinkle over the juice of 1 lemon, and set the fish aside for 1 
hour. In the meantime prepare a sauce Bearnaise, and place it in a 
warm place. Wipe the fish dry with a napkin, and dust lightly with 
flour ; have 2 well-beaten eggs in a soupplate, take each piece of fish 
separately on a fork, dip into beaten egg, then in fresh rolled 
cracker crumbs ; when the pieces are prepared lay on a clean board 
and pat smooth with a knife. Place a frying pan with 2 ounces 
lard or beef fat over the fire ; when hot put in some of the fish 
pieces, and fry light brown on both sides over moderate fire ; when 
all are done pour the sauce on a warm dish, and arrange the fish 
over it. Serve with potatoes a la Parisienne. Bluefish prepared in 
this way may also be served with Tartar sauce. 

Blueflsh en Papillotes. — Clean, wash, and wipe a 3-pound 
bluefish, split through the back, remove the bones, and cut each 
side into 3 pieces ; season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, 
sprinkle over the juice of 1 lemon, lay the pieces in a covered dish, 
with 2 onions cut into slices, 2 sprigs of thyme, 1 bay leaf, and 12 
whole peppers ; cover and let it stand 1 hour. Then lay the fish 



224 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

pieces on a clean napkin, pat until dry, inclose each piece sepa- 
rately in 1 sheet of thickly buttered writing paper, fold the paper 
to keep the air out, lay in a buttered pan, and place in a hot oven. 
When swelling and having obtained a fine delicate color they are 
done ; remove them carefully to a hot dish, leaving the paper un- 
disturbed, and serve with French fried potatoes. 

Blueflsh with Fines Herbes. — Prepare a bluefish as in fore- 
going recipe, season with pepper and salt, sprinkle over the juice 
of 1 lemon, and set aside. Melt 2 ounces of butter in a small 
saucepan, add 2 fine-chopped onions, cook 3 minutes ; then add Yg 
cupful fine-chopped mushrooms (and, if handy, 2 chopped truffles) ; 
season with 1 even teaspoonful seasoning salt, cook and stir 5 min- 
utes ; remove from fire, and add Yg tablespoonful fine-chopped pars- 
ley. Cut 6 sheets of white paper heart-shape, and spread them 
with butter, lay the papers on a board, a small portion of the above 
prepared herbs on the paper, and on top 1 fish piece ; cover the fish 
with a layer of the same herbs ; then lift up the other side of the 
paper and twist the edges together with the fingers. Lay the papil- 
lotes in a buttered pan, and bake in a hot oven until they swell and 
have obtained a fine brown color. Arrange them on a warm dish, 
leaving the papers undisturbed, and serve with potatoes a I'alle- 
mande. 

BUTTERFISH. 

In season from October to April. 

Butterfish, Fried. — Clean and wash 6 fresh butterfish, wipe dry, 
season with salt, roll in flour, and fry in hot fat or pork, then serve. 

Butterfish a la Mariniere. — Lay 6 well-cleaned butterfish in 
a covered dish, season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, add 1 
onion cut into slices, the juice of 1 lemon, some parsley, and 1 sprig 
of thyme ; leave them for 1 hour. Then remove, wipe dry, dust 
lightly with flour, dip in beaten egg, and roll in bread or cracker 
crumbs. Place a frying pan over the fire with 1 tablespoonful lard 
or beef fat, add a little butter, and when hot put in the fish ; fry to 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 225 

a delicate brown on both sides and well done. Serve with potatoes 
in parsley sauce. 

BLACKFISH. 
In season from April to October. 

Blacklisli a la Stamford. — Procure a good-sized fresh fish, 
split it through the back, remove the skin and bones, and cut the 
meat into thin slices 3 inches long ; season with salt, lay in a covered 
dish with 1 sliced onion, the juice of 1 lemon, and Yg bunch of fresh 
parsley ; cover the dish, and let stand 1 hour. Mix the yolks of 2 
eggs with Ys cup of milk, add Ys teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonf ul 
melted butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, and stir this to a smooth bat- 
ter ; beat the 2 whites to a stiff froth, add to the batter ; then wipe 
the fish dry, dust lightly with flour, take each piece separately on a 
larding needle, dip into the batter, and drop into boiling fat (do not 
put in too many at a time) ; fry to a delicate brown color. Lay the 
fish for a few minutes on blotting paper, to absorb all the grease, 
then arrange on a hot dish ; serve with mashed potatoes and tomato 
sauce a I'allemande. 

Blackflsli^ Baked. — Select a good-sized fish, weighing from 4 
to 5 pounds, season with pepper and salt. Lay the fish with 3 slices 
of larding pork under it into a baking pan ; lay a few slices of pork 
on top the fish, sprinkle some melted butter and lemon juice over, 
place in a hot oven, and bake till done (if it should brown too much 
on top, cover with buttered paper). When done, transfer the fish 
carefully to a warm dish, and garnish with fried tomatoes; serve 
with boiled potatoes and Robert sauce. 

Blackflsh, Fried. — Procure a fresh fish of 3 or 4 pounds, clean, 
wash, and dry it ; season with salt, split it through the back, and 
cut each half into 3 pieces ; roll them in flour, and fry in half 
lard and half butter or pork lightb rown. Serve with French 
fried potatoes. 



226 SEA FOOD, Etc. 



BASS. 

In season the year round. 

Bass — Where found, etc. — A family of sea and fresh-water 
fishes, of which there are many known varieties in the American 
waters. Bass of various kinds are found in most of the waters of 
the world, and are everywhere highly esteemed as a table fish. The 
American varieties are the sea bass, called sometimes blue or black 
bass. Its general color is blue-black, slightly bronzed. The weight 
of the sea bass varies from Yg pound to 17 pounds, and is in season 
from May 15th to the end of October. The striped bass is the rock 
fish of the Delaware and Potomac rivers ; its color is bluish brown 
above, silvery white below. This fish winters in the deep, warm, 
muddy sea bays, and runs up the rivers in the spring in pursuit of 
the smelt, also to devour the shad roe and to spawn in the autumn. 
It runs from the size- of a smelt up to a weight of 50 and 70 pounds, 
is an excellent fish for the table, and in season the year round. 
Lake and black bass are in season from June to December. 

Bass Ibaked Plain. — Select 1 well-cleaned bass of 4 pounds or 
2 of 2 pounds each, season with salt, place in a baking pan, put 1 
tablespoonful lard, good beef fat, or larding pork in the pan, put Yg 
tablespoonful butter inside the fish, and pour a little melted butter 
over. Bake 35 minutes in a hot oven or until done ; serve with 
baked or boiled potatoes and mustard sauce. 

Bass, Broiled. — Split open a 3-pound bass through the belly 
to the back without separating the fish, remove the back bone, wash 
and wipe the fish dry ; season it with 1 even tablespoonful season- 
ing salt ; brush the fish over with a little melted butter or olive oil ; 
place it on a broiler with the flesh side toward the fire, broil over a 
moderate, clear fire 10 minutes ; then turn and broil 5 minutes on 
the skin side. Dress the fish on a hot dish and spread 2 ounces 
maitre d'hotel butter over ; serve with baked potatoes. 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 227 

Bass, Fried. — Procure a 4-pound bass ; clean, wash, and split tlie 
fish in halves, then cut each half into 3 pieces ; season with lYg even 
tablespoonf ul seasoning salt, and roll in flour. Cut Yg pound larding 
pork into small pieces, place it in a frying pan, and fry till it begins 
to turn light brown ; then pour half the pork in a small saucepan, and 
keep it warm ; put as many of the fish pieces in the pork as will 
conveniently go in, and fry light brown on both sides (care should be 
taken not to have the fire too hot) ; keep adding more of the pork in 
the saucepan as the frying continues. Serve with mustard sauce 
and boiled potatoes, or send to table without sauce. In place of pork 
the fish may be fried in lard, beef fat, or half butter and half lard 
or fat ; some prefer to have the fish fried in oil. 

Fillet of Bass, Fried.— Procure 2 bass, each weighing iVg 
pound, split them through the back, remove the skin and bones, 
pare the meat into oval shapes, season with 1 even tablespoonful 
seasoning salt, and dust lightly with flour ; dip in beaten egg, then 
roll in fine bread crumbs, fry in half butter and half lard to a golden 
color. Dress on a warm dish, garnish with parsley, lemon, and 
potato chips, and serve with sauce Tartare. 

Bass stuffed with Oyster Forcemeat. — Procure a well- 
cleaned 4-pound bass, season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, 
and fill the inside with oyster forcemeat ; sew up and lay in a baking 
pan with a few slices of larding pork under it. Lay 3 slices of pork 
on top the fish, and pour 1 ounce melted butter and the Juice of 1 
lemon over, then set in a hot oven to bake 35 minutes. When done 
remove the fish carefully to a warm plate, and serve with tomato 
sauce a I'allemande or egg sauce. 

Bass, Boiled. — Place a well-cleaned bass of 6 pounds on a 
drainer in a fish kettle, cover with cold water ; add 1 tablespoonful 
salt to every quart of water ; add Yg cupful white vinegar, 3 onions, 
a small carrot, and a bouquet ; set the kettle over a strong fire ; as 
soon as it begins to boil draw the kettle to side of stove, and let 



228 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

simmer 40 minutes. When done lift the fish from the water, drain 
and slip it on to a warm dish ; serve with oyster sauce. 

Bass a la St. Helair. — Procure a bass weighing about 2Y2 
pounds, wash and wipe it dry, season with 1 tablespoonful salt and 
1 even teaspoonf ul pepper ; lay the fish in a dish with 2 fine-chopped 
onions, 1 sprig of thyme, 3 sprigs of parsley, and sprinkle over the 
juice of 1 lemon; cover it tightly and let it lay in this marinade 1 
hour. Forty minutes before serving place the fish in a buttered 
pan with 3 thin slices of pork under it ; pour % cup of white wine 
into the pan ; add the chopped onions, parsley, and thyme, cover 
with buttered paper, and bake in a quick oven till done, basting it 
frequently. In the meantime fry Yg tablespoonful flour in Yg table- 
spoonful butter for a few minutes ; add sufiicient boiling water to 
make a creamy sauce ; add Y2 teaspoonful beef extract, 2 table- 
spoonfuls fine-chopped mushrooms, and a little garlic. Place the 
fish on a hot dish, strain the gravy, add it to the sauce in the sauce- 
pan, boil 8 minutes ; pour it over the fish, and serve. 

Striped Bass a la Saragossa.— Clean and wash a bass, from 
5 to 6 pounds, season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt ; jDlace a 
saucepan with 2 ounces of butter over the fire ; add Y2 cupful fine- 
chopped onions, the same of chopped carrots, cook and stir 5 min- 
utes ; then add Ys cupful chopped mushrooms, Ys cupful mushroom 
liquor, a large bouquet, 1 quart white broth, 1 bottle white wine, 
cover and boil Ys hour ; set aside, and when cold strain the broth 
through a fine sieve. Place the fish on a drainer in a fish kettle, 
pour over the broth, set the kettle over the fire ; as soon as it com- 
mences to boil remove to side of stove, and let simmer till done. In 
the meantime melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoon- 
ful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add Ys pii^t of white broth, Ys 
pint of fish broth, cook 10 minutes ; mix the yolk of 2 eggs with 1 
tablespoonful lemon juice, add them gradually to the sauce ; place 
the saucepan in hot water to keep warm. When the fish is done 
lift it from the kettle, drain and brush the bass over with glaze 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 229 

mixed with a little lobster butter ; slip the fish on to a warm dish 
and garnish with oysters a la Villeroi and mushrooms stewed in 
butter ; or garnish with fried oysters and scallops. Pour the sauce 
into a sauce bowl, and serve with the fish. 

Bass a la Radzivill. — Butter thickly the drainer of a deep 
fish pan ; cover the bottom with onions cut into slices, 1 sliced 
carrot, a bouquet, 3 thin slices of larding pork, 2 ounces fine-cut 
ham, and 12 whole peppers. Clean and wash a medium-sized 
striped bass ; season it with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt well 
rubbed inside and outside the fish ; lay the fish on the drainer, pour 
1 bottle Ehine wine over, cover with buttered paper, place the pan 
over the fire, and boil 5 minutes ; then set the pan in the oven, 
bake, and baste often till the fish is done. Lift the bass from the 
pan, strain the broth into a saucepan, remove the fat, reduce the 
broth by boiling it to half glaze. Return the fish to the pan, pour 
the broth over, set in the oven, and baste till glazed all over ; then 
slip on to a warm dish, garnish with peeled olives, whole stewed 
mushrooms, small green pickles, and a few sliced truffles cooked in 
wine, and serve with sauce genevoise. Salmon trout and chicken 
halibut may be prepared in the same way. 

Bass a I'Espagnole. — Season a 3-pound well-cleaned bass with 
1 tablespoonful seasoning salt ; lay the bass in a covered dish with 
the juice of 1 lemon, 1 clove of garlic, 2 slices onion ; let stand 1 
hour ; then wipe the fish dry with a soft napkin, place a large 
enough fish kettle over the fire with sufficient olive oil to cover the 
fish. Lay the bass on the fish drainer, put 3 medium-sized tomatoes 
on top of the fish ; as soon as the oil is boiling hot put in the fish 
and cook 20 minutes ; then remove, let the fish drain, slip it on to 
a warm dish ; garnish with 6 stuffed baked green peppers, 18 small 
white onions parboiled in water and cooked in a little butter. Serve 
with Colbert sauce. 

Bass baked a TEspagiiole.— Obtain a 4-pound bass, clean, 
and wash it, season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, put on a 



230 SEA FOOD, Etc. 

long dish with 2 onions cut into slices, sprinkle over the juice of 1 
lemon, cover the fish. Let it lie 1 hour. Then lay 3 or 4 thin 
slices of larding pork in the bottom of a baking pan, put a few 
slices of the onion on top of the pork, over this place the fish, put 1 
ounce butter inside the fish, 3 small tomatoes with 3 slices of onions 
on top of it, and pour 2 ounces butter over all ; lastly, sprinkle over 2 
tablespoonfuls fine-chopped green pepper, place in a hot oven, and 
bake from 30 to 40 minutes. Eemove the fish carefully to a hot 
dish; free the gravy from the onion and pork ; add 1 tablespoonful 
flour to the gravy, stir for a few minutes over the fire ; add 1% cup- 
ful boiling water and cook 5 minutes ; then strain, add Yg cupful 
mushroom liquor, 1 teaspoonf ul beef extract, a little seasoning salt, 
cook a few minutes ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with the juice of Yg 
lemon, add it gradually to the sauce, add Yg tablespoonful butter in 
small pieces, and serve. This fish may be served with a tomato 
sauce or without sauce. 

Fish Croquettes. — Cut remnants of cold cooked fish into 
small pieces ; place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter, 2 tablespoonfuls 
fine-chopped onion, Y2 clove of bruised garlic over the fire ; cook 5 
minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir, and cook 3 minutes ; then 
add 1 cupful milk, 1 teaspoonful salt, Yg even teaspoonf ul white pep- 
per, Ys teaspoonful dry mustard, and, if handy, Yg cupful fine- 
chopped mushrooms ; add the fish meat, stir, and cook 5 minutes ; 
then add the yolks of 3 eggs and Ys tablespoonful fine-chopped 
parsley; put the preparation on a flat dish and let stand in a cool 
place. Thirty minutes before serving, form the preparation into 
cork-shaped croquettes, dip in beaten egg, cover with fresh grated 
bread crumbs, and fry light brown in hot fat. Or the croquettes 
may be formed into small pyramids and then fried. In serving 
these dress on a hot dish, stick a small sprig of parsley in the top of 
each, and serve with oyster, caper, or Tartar sauce. 

Croquilles de Poisson. — Boil 1 pound of halibut the same as 
for fish salad (see my book " Desserts and Salads, recipe 907), break 



SEA FOOD, Etc. 231 

it into small pieces, and mix with the following sauce : Melt 1 ounce 
butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir, and cook 2 
minutes ; add 1 cupful chicken broth, Yg cupful milk, 12 whole pep- 
pers, a small bouquet, Yg gill mushroom liquor, Ys teaspoonful nut- 
meg, 1 even teaspoonful salt, cook 5 minutes ; then strain, add Ya 
gill sweet cream, and the fish ; fill it in table shells, sprinkle over 
some fresh grated bread crumbs and a little melted butter, bake 
light brown in the oven, and serve. 



MEATS. 

BEEF. 

Beef, Braised. — Select a piece of beef of 4 pounds from the 
rump, see that one side is covered with fat, remove the bone ; season 
the meat with 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper, roll it up and 
tie it firmly with 3 strings ; saw the bone into small pieces, lay in a 
saucepan with 2 ounces larding pork, 2 ounces raw ham, 2 onions, 1 
carrot, both cut into pieces ; add a bouquet, put the meat on top of 
this ; add 2 quarts stock or broth. Cover the meat with buttered paper, 
put on the cover, place the saucepan over the fire. As soon as it 
boils, draw to side of stove, and let simmer 3 hours ; then take the meat 
out, lay it in a roasting pan with a little broth ; strain the remaining 
broth through a clean cloth, remove every particle of fat, return the 
broth in an uncovered saucepan to the fire, reduce it by boiling to 1 
pint. Eemove the strings from the meat, pour over the broth, place 
in a hot oven, and roast 30 minutes (basting frequently), when the 
broth will have become a half glaze. Lay on a warm dish, add 
to the gravy in pan 1 cupful boiling water, scrape all the brown 
part loose from the bottom and side of pan, and mix it with the 
gravy. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoon- 
ful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add the gravy from the pan (if 
too thick add more boiling water), stir and cook 5 minutes ; add the 
juice of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful sugar; pour a little of the sauce over 
the meat, and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl. Garnish the 
meat with 1 pint of cooked carrot balls, 1 pint of small white cooked 
onions, and 1 pint of small potato balls, cut out with a vegetable cut- 
ter and boiled (see Vegetables). In place of lemon juice Ys pint 
white wine may be used ; it is then called Braised Beef a la Flamande. 



MEATS. 233 

Braised Beef a rAmericaine. — Take a piece of beef from 
the cross ribs, lower sirloiu, or upper round, weighing from 4 to 6 
pounds, season with salt and pepper. Cut V2 pound suet into small 
pieces, put it in a saucepan over the fire, and fry light brown ; put 
in the meat, turn frequently and cook till it has obtained a light 
brown color all over; then add 1 pint of boiling water, cover and 
cook slowly 2 hours. Kemove the meat, strain and free the gravy 
from fat, return it to the saucepan, adding 1 can tomatoes; as 
soon as it boils, put in the meat, and cook till tender. When ready 
to serve, place the meat on a hot dish, strain the sauce, and serve 
with mashed potatoes. 

Braised Beef a la Fran^aise. — Procure a piece of beef of 6 
pounds from the rump well covered with fat ; remove the bone and 
lard the meat with strips of raw ham ; season with salt and pepper ; 
put the bone, cut into pieces, with 3 fine-cut onions, 1 carrot, 1 
stalk of celery, a bouquet, and 1 leek, in a saucepan ; place the meat 
on top of this, pour over lYg cup sherry wine, 1 gill of brandy ; set 
the saucepan over the fire, cook 10 minutes ; then add sufiicient veal 
broth to nearly cover the meat, cover with buttered paper, put on 
the lid, and cook slowly 4 hours. Eemove the meat, take oii' the 
strings, put it in a roasting pan ; strain the broth, remove all the 
fat, pour 1 pint of the broth over the meat, set it in a hot oven, 
roast and baste frequently 30 minutes ; put the remaining broth in 
a saucepan over the fire, and reduce by boiling without a cover to 
1 pint. Melt 1 ounce butter in a small saucepan, add 1 fine-chopped 
onion, a little fine-chopped carrot, cook 6 minutes ; add 1 tablespoon- 
f 111 flour, stir a few minutes ; add the reduced bi-oth, Y2 cupful 
mushroom liquor, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, and boil 10 minutes ; then 
strain, add the gravy from the meat (if too thin, reduce the sauce 
by boiling). When ready to serve, pour a little of the sauce over 
the meat, arrange on a hot dish, and garnish with young cooked 
vegetables in season. 

Braised Beef a la Jardiniere. — Procure a nice rump piece 
of beef of G pounds, remove the bone ; season with 1 tablespoouful 



234 MEATS. 

salt, Ya tablespoonful pepper, roll the meat up and tie it with 3 
strings. Cut the bones into small pieces, place them in a saucepan 
large enough to receive the meat ; add a small shank of veal cut 
into small pieces, 2 large onions cut into slices, 1 carrot, 1 leek, and 
a bouquet ; lay the meat on top of this, cover with cold water, place 
the saucepan over the fire ; as soon as it boils cover the meat with a 
piece of buttered paper, put on the lid, draw the saucepan to side of 
stove, and let boil slowly from 3 to 4 hours. (One may ascertain if 
done by sticking a larding needle into the meat ; if penetrating easily 
it is done, if not the boiling must be continued. The one-week-old 
meat of a young animal generally cooks well done in 30 minutes 
for each pound ; but the meat of an old animal and fresh meat 
needs longer cooking.) When done, take the meat out, remove the 
strings, lay in a roasting pan with 1 pint of the strained broth ; set it 
in a hot oven and roast 20 minutes, basting frequently ; strain the re- 
maining broth, remove all the fat, return the broth to the fire in a 
saucepan, and reduce it by boiling to lYg pint. Melt 1 ounce butter 
in a saucepan, add V-j^ tablespoonful flour, stir for a few minutes ; 
add the strained broth, also the gravy from the meat in oven, cook 
10 minutes ; add a small piece of butter and y, teaspoonful beef 
extract, pour a little of the sauce over the meat. Dress on a hot dish, 
garnish with 1 pint of boiled cauliflower roses, 1 pint cooked carrot 
balls, 1 pint stewed green peas, Yg pint of boiled asparagus tops, and 
1 pint small potato balls. Each vegetable is to be cooked separately, 
the cauliflower, the asparagus, and potatoes in salted water, the peas 
and carrots in water with a little sugar ; when the vegetables are 
done, drain them, add to each one Y2 tablespoonful butter, to the 
peas and carrots a little salt ; toss them up for a few minutes over 
the fire, then lay in clusters around the meat, and serve with the 
sauce. Any other vegetables in season may be used in place of the 
above named. 

Braised Beef a la Brussel. — Choose a piece of beef from 
the middle sirloin weighing from 6 to 8 pounds, remove the bone 
and fat, then cut some larding pork into long, finger- thick strips, 



MEATS. 235 

chop 1 onion very fine, mix it with 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoon- 
ful pepper, 74 teaspoonful allspice, Yg teaspoonful thyme ; roll the 
strips of pork in this seasoning. Then make incisions in the meat 
1 inch apart, put into each a piece of the pork ; season the meat all 
over with salt and pepper, roll up tightly, and tie with strings. 
Chop the bones into small pieces, put into a stewpan, add 2 onions 
with 2 cloves stuck into each, 1 carrot, and a large bouquet ; lay the 
meat on top of this ; add 1 pint red wine and 1 gill of brandy, 
cover and cook 30 minutes, turning the meat occasionally; then 
add 1 quart of stock, cover the meat with buttered paper, put on 
the lid and cook 2Y2 hours, basting frequently with its own gravy. 
Take out the meat, place it in a roasting pan, strain the broth, re- 
move all the fat, and pour the broth over the meat ; add Yg cup 
currant jelly and Y2 cupful red wine, set the pan in a hot oven and 
roast till well done, basting frequently. When done lift the meat 
to a warm dish ; mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch with a little cold 
water, add it to the gravy, stir and cook on top of stove for a few 
minutes, then strain ; pour 2 tablespoonfuls over the meat, garnish 
with small potato dumplings, and serve with the sauce. 

Pot Roast. — Pot roast should either be cooked rare or till well 
done. Choose a nice thick piece of beef from the lower sirloin or 
cross rib weighing about 4 pounds, season with salt and pepper, tie 
it firmly with strings into a round shape. Cut 4 ounces larding 
pork into small pieces, put them in a saucepan large enough to re- 
ceive the meat, place the saucepan over the fire and fry till the 
pork is light brown ; then add 2 ounces of butter, put in the meat, 
cook and turn till the meat becomes a fine brown color ; then add 
Ys pint of stock, 1 carrot, and 2 onions, cover and cook till done 
(about 1 hour for 4 pounds if wanted rare, and 3 hours if well done). 
If the gravy should boil away add more broth or water, a little at a 
time. "When done take out the meat, remove the fat from the 
gravy ; mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch with Ys cupful water, add it 
to the gravy, stir a few minutes, then add sufficient stock or boiling 
water to make a creamy sauce, boil 5 minutes ; strain and pour a 
16 



236 MEATS. 

little over the meat, dress on a warm dish ; garnish with stuffed 
tomatoes and potatoes tortonia. 

Pot Boast a I'Allemande. — Select a piece of beef from the 
lower sirloin or rump ; if the rump is taken, remove the bone ; 
season the meat well with salt and pepper, tie it into a round shape 
with strings. Melt 4 ounces butter in a saucepan ; as soon as melted 
put in the beef, turn often, and cook till the meat has obtained a 
fine color ; add 1 cup of stock or boiling water, cover and cook till 
nearly dry ; then add 1 pint of sour cream, 1 onion, a few slices of 
carrot, and a bouquet, cover and cook slowly till the meat is done. 
(If wanted rare, allow 15 minutes to a pound ; if well done, 30 min- 
utes. All pot roasts must either be cooked rare or well done.) 
Shortly before serving take the meat out, remove the strings, and 
lay it on a warm dish ; free the gravy from the fat, mix 1 table- 
spoonful cornstarch with a little cold water, add it to the gravy, 
stir and cook a few minutes ; add sufficient stock or boiling water 
to make a creamy sauce, cook 3 minutes ; then strain, pour a few 
spoonfuls over the meat, and serve the remaining sauce in a sauce- 
bowl. With this meat, creamed beans and boiled potatoes may be 
served, or nudles boiled in salted water and dressed with fried bread 
crumbs. (If cream is not handy sweet milk may be taken.) 

Sour Boast. — Select a piece of beef of 4 pounds from the 
lower sirloin ; cut Yg pound larding pork into finger-thick strips, 
chop fine 1 onion, mix it with 1 tablespoonf ul salt, Yg tablespoonful 
pepper, Y* teaspoonful allspice ; make incisions 1 inch apart in the 
meat with a pointed knife, roll the pork strips separately in the 
onion seasoning ; put one into each incision ; rub the remaining 
seasoning all over the meat, tie it into a round shape. Place the 
meat into a bowl, mix 1 pint of strong white vinegar with Y2 pint 
of water, pour it over the meat; add 2 onions cut into slices, 6 
cloves, 2 bay leaves, 12 whole peppers, cover and set in a cool place 
for 3 days, turning the meat every day with a fork. When ready 
to cook put the meat into a roasting pan, add the vinegar, spice, 



MEATS. 237 

and onions, also 1 tablespoonful sugar, set in a hot oven and roast 
2Y2 hours, or till done. Shortly before serving lay the meat on a 
hot dish, remove the strings, and garnish with potato dumplings ; 
strain the gravy, remove the fat, mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch 
with Y2 cupful cold water, add it to the gravy, stir and cook a few 
minutes on top of stove (if too thick add sufficient boiling water to 
make a creamy sauce, boil 3 minutes). Pour a little of the sauce 
over the meat and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl. Stewed 
prunes can be served with this dish. 

Beef a la Mode. — Procure a nice thick piece of beef off the 
lower sirloin weighing about 6 pounds ; chop fine 1 onion and 
some parsley, add 1 tablespoonful salt, Y2 tablespoonful pepper ; cut 
4 ounces larding pork and 4 ounces raw ham into finger-thick 
strips, and make with a pointed knife incisions 1 inch apart in 
the meat ; roll the pork and ham in the seasoning, put the strips of 
pork and ham alternately into the incisions ; tie the meat with a 
string into a perfect round shape. Cover the bottom of a saucepan 
with three thin slices of larding pork, 4 ounces raw ham, 3 onions 
cut into slices, 2 carrots, and a large bouquet ; place the meat on 
top of this, add Yg pint Rhine wine and sufficient white broth to 
reach half way up the meat ; cover with buttered paper, put on the 
lid and cook slowly 3Y2 hours. When done take out the meat, 
remove the strings, trim neatly, lay it on a warm dish ; free the 
broth from every particle of fat and strain it. Melt 1 tablespoonful 
butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook a few 
minutes ; add 1 pint of the strained broth and cook 5 minutes ; 
then strain, pour a little of the sauce over the meat, arrange it on a 
hot dish, and garnish with boiled potatoes and carrot balls, also 
small white glazed onions. 

Sirloin of Beef a la Hamtourgoise.— Procure a piece of 6 
pounds from the lower sirloin, cut Y2 pound of larding pork into 
long finger-thick strips ; mix 1 tablespoonful salt with Y2 table- 
spoonful pepper, 1 teaspoonful nutmeg, Y2 tablespoonful parsley, 1 



238 MEATS. 

bruised garlic ; make with a pointed knife incisions 1 inch apart in 
the meat, roll each strip of pork in the seasoning and put a strip of 
it into each incision ; rub the remaining seasoning well into the 
meat. Place a braising pan large enough to receive the meat over 
the fire, add 4 ounces fine-cut pork, let it fry till light brown ; put in 
the beef, turn frequently till light brown all over ; then add 1 pint 
of broth, 1 onion, a small clove of garlic, and a bouquet. Set the 
braising pan in a medium-hot oven, and roast 3 hours, basting fre- 
quently and turning the meat every half hour (if the broth boils 
away add more, but not too much at a time). When tlie meat is 
done take it out, trim neatly, and set it with a little of the broth in 
a warm place. Kemove the fat from the gravy ; mix 1 tablespoon- 
ful cornstarch with Yg cup cold water, add it to the gravy, cook and 
stir for a few minutes ; add sufficient broth to make a creamy sauce, 
boil a few minutes, then strain ; pour a few spoonfuls of the gravy 
over the meat. Arrange the braised beef on a hot dish, and lay a 
border of cooked red cabbage around the dish ; serve with boiled 
potatoes and the sauce. 

Spiced Beef. — Choose a nice piece of beef off the thick flank, 
weighing from 6 to 8 pounds ; mix 5 tablespoouf uls salt with 1 
tablespoonful brown sugar and Ys teaspoonful saltpeter, rub this 
well into the meat, and place it in a stone jar or bowl, set in a 
cool place for 5 days, turning it 2 or 3 times during that time (the 
turning should be done with a fork). When the meat is to be 
cooked wash it in cold water, remove the gristle and the coarse skin 
of the inside part. Have ready 2 tablespoonfuls fine-minced onion, 
1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, Ys teaspoonful thyme, as much 
sage as can be held between 2 fingers, Y2 teaspoonful allspice, 1 tea- 
spoonful pepper ; sprinkle this over the inside of the meat, roll it up 
in a cloth, and bind firmly with a string; place it over the fire with 
boiling water, and boil slowly from 4 to 5 hours. When the meat is 
done take out, put under a good weight without undoing, and let it 
remain until cold. This meat is very nice cut up cold for lunches or 



MEATS. 239 

suppers. In place of flank a rump piece may be taken, and the 
bone removed. 

Roll of Beef. — Take a 4-pound brisket piece of beef, remove 
bones, skin, and most of the fat ; mix 1 even tablespoonful salt with 
1 teaspoonful pepper, rub this all over the beef, roll up and tie it 
firmly. Put a few pieces of pork in bottom of saucepan, add 2 
sliced onions, 1 sliced carrot, 1 bay leaf, a few sprigs of parsley, a little 
celery, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 blade of mace, 3 cloves ; lay the meat on 
top of this cover and cook 20 minutes on top of the stove ; then add 
Y2 cup white wine or the juice of 1 lemon, and 1 cup boiling water 
with Y2 teaspoonful beef extract or bouillon; cover tightly and 
place in a medium-hot oven for 3 hours. Shortly before serving 
transfer the meat to a dish, remove the fat from gravy, add a little 
boiling water to the gravy, boil for a few minutes, strain, and 
pour it over the meat. Fry Yg tablespoonful flour in Y2 tablespoon- 
ful butter for a few minutes, add Y2 pint stock or boiling water with 
a little beef extract, boil 3 minutes ; then strain. Put 2 tablespoon- 
fuls fine-chopped mushrooms with 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped 
boiled ham or tongue in a small saucepan, add a small wineglass- 
ful Madeira wine, 4 tablespoonfuls strained stewed tomatoes, and 
boil 3 minutes ; then add the sauce previously made, boil all up 
together, add a pinch of salt, and serve with the meat. 

Boiled Brisket a Pltalienne. — Procure a nice brisket piece 
of beef, place it in a soup kettle over the fire, cover with water ; as 
soon as it boils add 2 onions, 1 carrot, a bouquet, a little celery, and 
12 whole peppers ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, Ys table- 
spoonful pepper, cover and cook slowly from 4 to 5 hours. When 
done take the meat out, remove all the bones, and trim the meat 
nicely. Melt 2 ounces butter, add 2 tablespoonfuls flour, cook 2 
minutes ; add 2 cups milk, Y2 cupful mushroom liquor, cook 5 min- 
utes ; mix the yolks of 3 eggs with 3 tablespoonfuls cream, add it to 
the sauce ; add 2 ounces grated Parmesan cheese. Kemove from 
fire, lay the brisket pieces in a roasting pan, pour Y2 cupful broth 



240 MEATS. 

into it, cover the top of the brisket with the above sauce, sprinkle 
over 2 ounces grated cheese, 2 tablespoonfuls bread crumbs, a 
little melted butter, bake light brown in a hot oven. In the mean- 
time strain the broth, remove the fat, and reduce the broth by boil- 
ing to one half. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, cook 2 minutes ; add 1 pint of the reduced broth, Yg 
teaspoonful beef extract, 74 teaspoonful pepper, cook 5 minutes ; 
add a small piece of butter, and serve with the meat. Serve any kind 
of vegetables in season with it. 

Beef prepared for Roasting.— The 7 prime ribs are used for 
roasting, the first 2 ribs near the short loin being the best ; the ribs 
for roasting are prepared in three different ways : One is to saw off 
the ribs to an inch from the meat, to give the piece selected for 
roasting as much of a round shape as possible. Another way is to 
remove all the bones, roll the meat and tie it with a string, this form- 
ing the piece into a round shape. The third mode is to leave the 
bones undisturbed, and roast the beef with the bones. 

Roast Beef. — Select 2 ribs of beef and prepare in any of the 
three forms mentioned above ; wipe the meat off with a towel, sea- 
son with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, rubbing the seasoning well 
into the meat. Lay 4 ounces fine-cut suet in a roasting pan, place 
over it the meat, lay 6 ounces suet on top ; set the pan in a hot oven, 
roast 30 minutes, then turn the meat over, replacing the suet on 
top, and roast 40 minutes longer (a piece of 7 pounds will be done 
in that time; a good plan is to allow 10 minutes for each pound). 
When done lay the meat on a warm dish, remove nearly all the fat 
from the gravy ; mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch with Yg cupful cold 
water, add it to the gravy, also sufficient boiling water to make 1 
pint of sauce, boil and stir 5 minutes, then strain ; add Y2 teaspoon- 
ful beef extract and a small piece of butter ; serve with the meat. 
If potatoes are to be roasted in the pan with the meat, peel and 
wash the desired quantity, and after roasting the meat 15 min- 
utes, lay the potatoes around the meat, sprinkling over some salt ; 



MEATS. 241 

they will then be done with the meat ; turn them once while 
roasting. 

Boast Beef with Yorksliire Pudding.— Roast a piece of 
beef as in foregoing recipe ; 35 minutes before serving sift 1 pint of 
prepared flour in a bowl, add Ys ounce butter, rub butter and flour 
together with the hand ; add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and gradually 1 
pint of milk and 2 well-beaten eggs ; mix all well together. Pour 
a few spoonfuls of the beef fat in a long shallow tin pan, brush it 
all over the pan, pour in the batter, place in a moderate oven, and 
bake from 25 to 30 minutes. In serving lay the meat on a warm 
dish, cut the pudding into square pieces and lay around the meat ; 
pour a little of the beef gravy over each piece and serve. Or the beef 
must be roasted 30 minutes and the pudding placed under the meat ; 
in that case the meat must be laid on a grating so that the drippings 
fall upon the pudding below. 

Boiled Bibs of Beef. — Procure a 2-ribbed piece of roast beef, 
cut oS the ribs close to the meat, use the round piece of meat for 
roasting. Rub the ribs thickly with salt all over, let them lay in a 
cool place or in the ice box for one week ; when wanted to use, wash 
the meat in cold water, place it in a saucepan with cold water over 
the fire, and boil till tender, which will take 3 hours. Serve with 
onion or horseradish sauce. 

Fillet a PAmericaine. — Season 4 pounds fillet of beef with 1 
even tablespoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper. Put 2 ounces fine -cut 
suet in a roasting pan, lay the fillet on top the suet, pour 2 ounces 
melted butter over or lay 2 ounces suet on top the meat, set the pan 
in a hot oven, and roast 15 minutes ; then pour Y2 cupful boiling water 
in the pan, roast 25 minutes, basting frequently. When done lay the 
fillet on a warm dish ; mix Y2 tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of 
cold water, remove the fat from the gravy, add the dissolved cornstarch, 
stir for a few minutes over the fire ; add sufficient boiling water to 
make a creamy sauce, season with a little beef extract, salt and pepper 
to taste, boil 3 minutes, strain, pour 2 tablespoonfuls over the meat, 



242 MEATS. 

and serve the remaining sauce in a sauce bowl. Place 6 stuffed and 
baked tomatoes around the fillet and serve. 

Fillet of Beef a PAllemaiide.— Take 4 pounds of fillet of 
beef, remove with a small sharp knife the sinewy skin which covers it, 
lard with fine strips of larding pork, season with 1 even tablespoonful 
salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper ; lay the fillet in a roasting pan, pour 
4 ounces melted butter over, set in a hot oven, and roast 10 minutes ; 
then add Yg gill of water and Yg pint sour cream, baste and roast 
30 minutes, allowing 10 minutes to a pound. When done lay the 
fillet on a warm dish ; mix Ys tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill 
of cold water, add it to the sauce, stir for a few minutes over the 
fire ; add sufficient boiling water to make a creamy sauce, boil 3 
minutes ; then strain through a sieve, pour a little of the sauce over 
the meat, and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl, with the meat. 
Garnish with shaved horseradish ; half of it should be colored with 
a little pink coloring paste ; serve with compote and salad. (For 
Compote and Salad see my book Desserts and Salads.) 

Fillet of Beef a la Berlinoise.— Pare and trim 4 pounds 
fillet of beef, lard it closely with fine strips of larding pork, season 
with 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper. Lay the 
meat in a roasting pan a little larger than the meat ; add 1 sliced 
onion, 1 small sliced carrot ; baste the meat with 2 ounces melted 
butter, set in a hot oven and roast 40 minutes, basting occasionally 
with its own gravy (if the vegetables should brown too much in 
bottom of pan, add 2 tablespoonfuls of water). At the same time 
drain off the liquor from a can of mushrooms, melt 4 ounces butter 
in a saucepan ; when hot, put in the mushrooms, add 1 even tea- 
spoonful salt, cover, and cook 15 minutes. When ready to serve, 
put the fillet on a warm dish, add Ys tablespoonful flour to the 
gravy in pan, stir for a few minutes on top the stove, then add 1 cup- 
ful boiling water, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, Y2 cupful mushroom 
liquor, a small bouquet; season with Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, 
salt to taste, and boil 6 minutes ; strain, pour 2 spoonfuls sauce over 



MEATS. 243 

the meat, add the juice of Yg lemon to the mushrooms, arrange 
them around the fillet, and serve with the sauce. 

Fillet a la Princesse. — Take 4 pounds of fillet of heef, re- 
move the skin which covers the top, and lard it closely with strips 
of larding pork ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even tea- 
spoonful pepper. Lay in the bottom of a roasting pan a little larger 
than the meat 3 slices of larding pork, 1 onion cut into slices, 4 slices 
of carrot, and a few parsley roots ; lay the fillet on top of this, place 
the pan in a hot oven, and roast 40 minutes. When done transfer 
the meat to a hot dish, place 6 stuffed baked tomatoes around the 
meat, and serve with the following sauce : Put in a saucepan 1 table- 
spoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped onion, 1 tablespoonful 
fine-minced ham, 1 bay leaf, 1 clove, Yg blade of mace, a small sprig 
of thyme, 2 parsley roots ; place over the fire, stir for 10 minutes ; 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook for 2 minutes, add lYs cupful chicken 
or veal broth, Y2 teaspoonful beef extract, 2 tablespoonfuls chopped 
mushrooms, Y2 cupful sherry wine, and the gravy from the fillet ; 
boil 10 minutes ; season with Y2 even teaspoonful pepper ; then 
strain, pour a little of the sauce over the meat, and serve the rest 
in a sauce bowl with the meat. 

Fillet of Beef, Braise a la Printanier.— Trim and lard a 
nice thick fillet of beef, season with lYs even tablespoonful salt, Y2 
teaspoonful pepper. Put 3 ounces fine-cut raw ham in a saucepan, 
add 3 ounces larding pork, 1 carrot, 2 onions, and a bouquet ; lay 
the fillet on top of this ; add sufficient bouillon to nearly cover the 
meat, cover with buttered paper, put on the lid. Place the sauce- 
pan over the fire ; as soon as it boils draw the saucepan to side of 
stove and boil slowly from 2 to 3 hours. When done take the meat 
out, lay it in a roasting pan, strain the broth, remove the fat, reduce it 
by boiling to 1 pint, then pour it over the meat ; set the pan in hot 
oven, baste, and roast 30 minutes. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a 
saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook a few minutes ; add the 
gravy from the meat, add 1 gill Khine wine, a little mushroom 



244: MEATS. 

liquor, Yi teaspoonful pepper (if too thick, thin with bouillon or 
boiling water) ; cook 5 minutes, then strain ; pour a few spoonfuls 
of sauce over the meat. Lay the fillet on a warm dish, garnish with 
small clusters of cauliflower roses and stewed green peas, asparagus 
tops, and small potato balls. 

Tenderloin a la Bordelaise. — For a family of 6 procure 2V2 
to 3 pounds tenderloin, cut it into slices IY2 inch in thickness, trim, 
and pound lightly to flatten to 1 inch ; season with 1 tablespoonful 
salt, Y2 teaspoonful pepper ; brush over with melted butter. Lay 
the steaks on a hot broiler and broil over a clear moderate fire from 
10 to 12 minutes, turning the meat several times while cooking. 
(In order to tell when the meat has cooked sufficiently touch it 
with the finger ; if offering slight resistance, it is cooked rare ; if 
cooked to perfection, the resistance will be a little stronger ; expe- 
rience will soon teach this.) Arrange the steak on a warm dish, 
pour over a hot Bordelaise sauce, see that the marrow lays on top 
the steaks, and garnish with potatoes tortonia. 

Tenderloin, Broiled. — Procure a nice tenderloin, remove the 
fiber parts, cut the tenderloin into 2-inch-thick slices, beat lightly 
to flatten to lYg inch in thickness, trim to a uniform size. Place a 
broiler over a moderate clear fire, brush the tenderloin steaks over 
with melted butter, lay them on the hot broiler, and broil 5 minutes 
on each side ; then remove to a warm dish. Spread over each steak 
Y2 teaspoonful seasoning butter and serve with potatoes a la Bern- 
hardt. 

Beefsteak. — The parts of beef used for steak are: Porter- 
house, sirloin, tenderloin, fillet, chuck, round, and flank. A steak 
should not be cut thinner than ^4 inch in thickness. 

Beefsteaks, Broiled. — Choose any of the above-named steaks 
% to IY2 inch in thickness, remove the fat and sinews, brush over 
with a little melted butter ; place a broiler over a moderate clear 
fire, lay the steak on the hot broiler, turn often, and broil from 10 
to 15 minutes, according to the thickness. Lay the steak on a hot 



MEATS. 245 

dish ; take for IY3 pound of steak 1 ounce of butter, 1 even tea- 
spoonful salt, Y4 even teaspoonful pepper ; mix together and spread 
it on both sides over the steak ; serve at once. 

Beefsteak, Fried. — For a family of six, take from 2Y2 to 3 
pounds of steak Y4 inch in thickness, remove all fat and sinews, cut 
the meat into 6 equal portions. Place an iron frying pan over a 
strong fire, put in a little fine-cut suet (just enough to grease the 
pan) ; when very hot, put in as many pieces of the steak as will 
conveniently lie in the pan, fry on each side 4 minutes ; then lay 
the meat on a hot dish. Mix for 3 pounds of steak 1 even table- 
spoonful seasoning salt with 2 ounces butter ; spread this over the 
steak, equally distributed on both sides. 

Beefsteak broiled a la Bearnaise. — Procure 2 steaks of the 
short porterhouse 174 inch thick, beat lightly to flatten them to 1 
inch in thickness, sprinkle over them 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 
even teaspoonful pepper, brush over on both sides with melted but- 
ter. Lay the steaks on a hot broiler over a clear, moderate fire, and 
broil 12 minutes, turning the steak 4 times. At the same time pre- 
pare a sauce Bearnaise (see Sauces) ; spread the sauce on a warm 
dish, lay the steak over the sauce, and serve with French fried pota- 
toes. (The French, Spanish, and Italians use oil for steak ; the 
Americans and Germans prefer butter.) 

Beefsteak with Onions. — Procure a sirloin steak from 2V3 to 
3 pounds, remove all fat and sinews, divide it into 6 equal pieces. 
Put a frying pan with a little beef fat over a strong fire, when very 
hot lay in the meat, fry 4 minutes on each side ; then lay the meat 
on a hot dish, mix 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt with 1 ounce 
butter, spread this over the steak. At the same time place a frying 
pan with 2 ounces very finely cut suet over the fire, and fry light 
brown ; cut 3 onions into slices, put them into the hot fat, sprinkle 
with Ya teaspoonful salt, cover and cook till tender; remove the 
cover, continue the cooking until the onions begin to turn light 
brown, then pour them over the steak and serve with boiled pota- 



246 MEATS. 

toes. Flank, chuck, and round steaks may be prepared in the 
same way. 

Beefsteak a la Colbert. — Procure 2 steaks of the short porter- 
house 1 inch in thickness, remove the fat and sinews, brush the 
steaks over with melted butter, lay them on a hot broiler, and broil 
over a moderate, clear fire 12 minutes, turning often while broiling. 
When done, lay them on a hot dish, mix 2 ounces butter with 1 
even tablespoonful seasoning salt, spread this over the steaks. Ar- 
range 6 stuffed and baked green peppers in a circle around the dish, 
and serve with Colbert sauce (see Sauce). 

Beefsteak a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Select either a porterhouse 
or sirloin steak 1 inch in thickness, weighing about 2Yg pounds ; re- 
move all the fat, trim the steak nicely, season with 1 even table- 
spoonful seasoning salt, brush it over with melted butter on both 
sides, lay the steak on a hot broiler, broil over a clear fire 12 minutes, 
turning often while broiling. When done, place on a hot dish, 
spread 2 ounces maitre d'hotel butter over, and serve with potato 
chips. 

Beefsteak with Mushroom Sauce. — Procure 2 fine steaks of 
the short loin, each weighing 1^4 pound, season with 1 even table- 
spoonful salt, Ya even teaspoonful pepper. Lay on a hot broiler and 
broil over moderate fire 12 minutes, turning the steaks often while 
broiling ; when done, arrange them on a hot dish. At the same 
time place a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire, add 
1 tablespoonful flour, cook and stir 3 minutes ; add lYg cup boiling 
water, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, and Ys can of mushrooms, season 
with Y4 teaspoonful pepper and Y2 even teaspoonful salt, boil 15 
minutes ; then pour the sauce over the steaks and serve. 

Beefsteak with Oysters. — Procure a nice porterhouse steak 
1 inch in thickness weighing about IY2 pound, trim it neatly ; lay 
the meat on a hot broiler, and broil over a clear fire 6 minutes on 
each side, turning often while broiling. Remove the steak to a 



MEATS. 247 

warm dish, stir 1 tablespoonful butter to a cream, add 1 teaspoon- 
ful salt, Yi teaspoonful pepper, spread this over the steak ; arrange 
the oysters described below in a circle around it, and serve with 
potatoes a la duchesse. Place 1 dozen large oysters without their 
liquor in a saucepan over the fire, add Yg tablespoonful butter, 1 
tablespoonful lemon juice, Y4 teaspoonful salt, a little white pepper, 
cook 3 minutes ; mix the yolk of 1 egg with 3 tablespoonf uls cream, 
add it to the oysters, leave them for a minute over the fire without 
boiling ; then finish as directed above. 

Sirloin Steak h la Milanaise. — Procure IY2 pound of lean, 
tender beef from the sirloin, have it ground very fine on a meat 
grinder, remove all stringy parts, season with 1 tablespoonful sea- 
soning salt, add 1 grated onion and 4 ounces fine-minced suet ; 
mix all well together; form this into 6 flat cakes, roll in bread 
crumbs, and fry in butter 3 minutes on each side. When done, lay 
them on a hot dish, pour over the tomatoes described below, and 
serve with spaghetti a la creme. 

Tomatoes. — Scald 4 large ripe tomatoes in boiling water, 
remove the skin and cut the tomatoes into pieces. Place a deep 
frying pan over the fire with 2 ounces butter ; as soon as hot put in 
the tomatoes, add Ys teaspoonful salt, Y* teaspoonful pepper, Ys tea- 
spoonful sugar, cook 10 minutes without a cover ; then pour over 
the steak and serve. 

Haml)urger Steak.— Procure 1% pound beef of the lower sir- 
loin or upper round, remove all the fat and stringy parts ; put the 
meat in a chopping machine, and grind it very fine ; mix with 4 
ounces fine-ground suet, 1 even tablespoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoon- 
ful pepper, 1 egg^ and 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion. After 
mixing all well together, form the meat into 6 round balls, flatten, 
and roll them in grated bread crumbs, then place a frying pan with 
one ounce butter over the fire ; as soon as hot, put in the steaks, and 
fry light brown or about 3 minutes on each side ; arrange them on a 
hot dish, put 1 teaspoonful flour in the pan, stir for a minute, add 



248 MEATS. 

Y2 cupful boiling water and a little beef extract, cook 2 minutes, 
then strain ; add a small piece of butter and a pinch of salt, pour it 
over the steak, and serve with Lyonnaise potatoes. 

Hamburger Steak with Onion Sauce.— Mix IY2 pound fine- 
ground or chopped lean beef with 4 ounces fine-chopped suet, re- 
move all stringy parts, season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, Yg even 
teaspoonful pepper ; mix all well together ; form this into 6 steaks, 
roll them in fine-sifted bread crumbs, and fry light brown in butter, 
about 3 minutes on each side. When done, lay the steaks on a hot 
dish, put 1 cupful fine-chopped onions in the pan, add a little more 
butter, cover and cook 6 minutes, then add Ys teaspoonful flour, 
stir a minute, add Y2 cupful stock or boiling water, with a little beef 
extract, and season with salt ; cook 3 minutes. Pour the sauce over 
the steaks and serve with boiled potatoes. 

Hanovarian Steak. — Procure IY2 pound lean tender beef off 
the sirloin, grind it exceedingly fine in a meat grinder (or chop it 
very fine), season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful 
pepper ; form this into 6 flat cakes, brush over with melted butter, 
lay on a hot broiler, and broil 4 minutes on each side, turning fre- 
quently. At the same time place a deep frying pan with 1 ounce 
butter over the fire, add Y2 cupful very finely chopped onion, cover, 
and cook 6 minutes without browning the onions. Peel 4 large 
ripe tomatoes, cut into pieces, and add to the onions ; season with 
Y2 teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, Y2 teaspoonful sugar, 
cover and cook 10 minutes ; then remove the cover, stir and cook 
a few minutes longer ; pour it over the steak and serve. Porter- 
house, sirloin, chuck, round, and flank may be prepared in the same 
way. 

Raw Beefsteak. — Take 1 pound tender beefsteak, mince it 
very fine (or better, grind it in a machine), remove all stringy parts, 
season with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt, add 1 tablespoonful 
fine-minced onion; shape this into small round beefsteaks, and 
serve them raw. 



MEATS. 249 

Beef a la Tar tare. — Have 1 pound of tender beefsteak minced 
very fine, season with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt ; divide it 
into 4 parts, and form into pyramids or like pears. Set each one on 
a small tea plate, press the top down a little, and make a small 
hollow in the center ; put into each hollow the yolk of 1 egg ; put 
around each pyramid clusters of fine-minced onions and pickled 
beets. Skin and bone 6 anchovies, divide each one in 2 fillets, roll 
each fillet up, and place 3 of them on each plate, on top the garnish. 
Serve with bread and butter. 

Minced Beefsteak, Broiled.— Mince or grind 1% pound beef 
from the upper round very fine, form it into 6 flat cakes Y2 inch in 
thickness, brush them over with melted butter on both sides, place 
them on a hot broiler, and broil over a clear fire 4 minutes on each 
side ; serve on a hot dish, spread 3 ounces seasoning butter over, 
and serve with baked or French fried potatoes. 

Flank Steak witli Onions. — Place a frying pan over the fire, 
add just enough fine-cut suet to grease the pan ; cut 2 pounds of 
thin flank into 6 pieces ; when the pan is very hot, put in as many 
of the meat pieces as will conveniently go in, fry 4 minutes on each 
side over a very hot fire. When done, remove the meat to a hot 
dish, season with salt and pepper ; put 3 ounces fine-cut suet in the 
pan, and fry crisp ; remove the scraps, cut 3 or 4 onions into fine 
slices, put them in the hot fat, season with Yg teaspoonful salt, and 
a little pepper ; cover the pan and cook till tender, stirring often. 
When done, pour the onions over the steak and serve with mashed 
potatoes and turnips. Eound steak is prepared the same as chuck 
and flank steak. 

Steak a la Stanley. — Procure a short thick porterhouscsteak 
of lYs pound, season with 1 teaspoonful salt and Y2 teaspoonful 
pepper, pour 1 tablespoonful oil all over the steak, and broil over 
a clear fire 6 minutes on each side ; then place it on a hot dish, pour 
over the sauce described below, and lay 3 fried bananas on top. 
Broiled tenderloin steak may be taken in place of porterhouse. 



250 MEATS. 

Sauce. — Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the fire, add 
as soon as melted 1 tablespoonf ul flour, stir and cook for 2 minutes ; 
add lYs cup boiling milk, season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, a little 
grated nutmeg, 8 whole peppers, a small bouquet, and Yg cup mush- 
room liquor ; cook slowly 10 minutes ; then strain the sauce into 
another saucepan, add Yg teaspoonful sugar, a little Cayenne pepper, 
3 tablespoonfuls grated horseradish, and 2 tablespoonfuls cream ; 
cook 3 minutes, and use as directed above. 

Fkied Bananas. — Peel and cut lengthwise 2 bananas into 
halves, roll them in flour, and fry in butter till light brown on both 
sides (care must be taken not to break them). 

Round Steak broiled with Yinaigrette Sance.— Take 2 

pounds round steak Y4 i^^ch in thickness, brush a little melted 
butter or oil over the steak, lay it on a hot broiler, and broil over a 
clear fire 12 minutes, turning the steak every 3 minutes while cook- 
ing. When done, lay the steak on a hot dish, pour over a vinaigrette 
sauce, and serve. Any other steak may be prepared the same way. 

Chuck Steak, Broiled. — Select a nice Y4-inch-thick chuck 
steak ; trim nicely, brush over with melted butter, lay on a hot broiler, 
and broil over a clear moderate fire 12 minutes, turning it several 
times. When done, lay the steak on a hot dish ; mix 1 tablespoon- 
ful butter with Ys tablespoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful pepper, spread 
this over the steak, and serve with mashed potatoes and fried 
tomatoes. 

Chuck Steak fried with Tomato Sauce.— Place a frying 
pan over the fire, add enough suet to grease the pan ; cut a 2Y2- 
pounds chuck steak into 6 pieces. Let the pan get very hot, put in 
the steak, fry 4 minutes on each side. Place the steak on a hot 
dish, season with salt and pepper, pour over 1 pint tomato sauce, 
and serve with mashed potatoes. Round and fiank steaks can be 
prepared the same way. 

Flank a I'Allemande. — Cut 2Y3 pounds of the upper flank 
into 2-inch pieces ; place the meat in a saucepan, cover with boil- 



MEATS. 251 

ing water; add 12 small white onions, 1 bouquet, 2 even table- 
spoonfuls salt, 1 even tablespoonful pepper, cover, and cook IY2 
hour. Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls 
flour, stir and cook a few minutes ; strain the broth from the meat, 
add IY2 pint of the broth to the flour and butter, stir and cook till 
smooth ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with the juice of Y2 lemon, add it 
slowly to the sauce ; place the meat on a hot plate, and pour the 
sauce over it. In the meantime have some nudles boiled in salted 
water, drain and arrange them in a border around the dish ; fry 3 
tablespoonfuls bread crumbs in butter light brown, sprinkle them 
over the nudles, and serve (sufficient for family of six). In place of 
flank, either beef from the neck or chuck may be taken. 

Rolled Flank in Aspic— Procure 3 pounds thin flank, rub it 
off with a cloth, and season with 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 even tea- 
spoonful pepper, and sprinkle over the juice of 1 lemon ; set it 
aside until the following forcemeat is prepared : Chop fine Vs pound 
pork chops, also Yg pound of veal, add 2 ounces fine-chopped larding 
pork, mix the three together ; season with salt, pepper, and a little 
nutmeg (add, if handy, a few mushrooms). Spread this forcemeat 
over the flank, roll up, then roll into a towel, tie the ends and cen- 
ter with a string. Place a saucepan with 2 calf's feet cut into 
pieces over the fire, cover with cold water ; as soon as it boils add 2 
onions with 3 cloves stuck into each, add 2 bay leaves, 12 whole 
peppers, and Ys bunch parsley, 2 lemons cut into slices and freed 
from the pits ; put in the roll, cover, and cook 3 hours. Take the 
roll out and strain the broth through a napkin, put the roll back 
into the broth, and set in a cool place. When nearly cold take out 
the roll, remove the napkin, lay the roll between 2 plates, put a 
weight on the upper plate. Eemove every particle of fat from the 
broth, return to the fire, reduce by boiling to 1 quart ; then whip 
the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, add the juice of 1 lemon and 
a little cold water, stir this into the broth, cook 5 minutes ; then 
draw to side of stove. Place a saucepan in a vessel of hot water 
17 



252 MEATS. 

over the fire, put a sieve over the saucepan, a napkin in the sieve, 
pour the broth in the napkin, and let it run into the saucepan. 
When all is thus strained pour it into a form and set aside to cool, 
then place on ice till firm. When ready to serve, cut the roll into 
slices, arrange them nicely on a dish, chop up some of the jelly, and 
lay it around the dish ; serve with mayonnaise. 

Rolled Flank, Filled.— Procure 2V3 pounds of the thinnest 
part of flank, wipe it off with a cloth, season with 1 tablespoonf ul 
seasoning salt ; soak 2 slices of stale bread in cold water. Place a 
saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion over the fire, 
add 1 ounce butter, cook 5 minutes ; then press out the bread and 
measure it (there should be 1 even cupful), add it to the butter and 
onion, stir over the fire 6 minutes. Eemove, and when cold mix it 
with 4 ounces fine-chopped fresh pork or sausage meat ; season with 
salt and pepper, add Yg teaspoonf ul thyme and 1 egg ; when this is 
well mixed spread it over the meat, roll up, and tie at each end with a 
string, and in the center. Put a saucepan with 2 ounces fine-cut suet 
over the fire, fry it light brown, add 1 ounce butter, then put in the 
meat and cook, turning the meat often until light brown all over ; 
then add 1 cup of broth, cover and cook about 2^/2 hours, till tender. 
(If the broth boils away and the meat becomes dry, add more broth, 
but not too much at a time). When the meat is done transfer it to 
a hot dish, take off the strings, and keep it warm ; remove the fat 
from the gravy, mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of cold 
water, add it to the gravy, stir and cook a few minutes ; add suflS- 
cient broth to make a creamy sauce ; then strain, add a small piece 
of butter, pour a little sauce over the meat, and serve the remainder 
in a sauce bowl. Mashed Russian turnips and potatoes, also stewed 
dried apricots, go nicely with this dish. 

Rolled Flank a la Philip. — Procure about 2 pounds of the 
inside flank, wipe it off with a clean cloth, season both sides with 1 
even tablespoonful seasoning salt. Cut 2 ounces parboiled bacon 
into thin slices, remove the rind, lay the slices over the flank, roll 



MEATS. 253 

up, and tie with a string on each end and in the center. Cut 1 
ounce larding pork into small pieces, put it in a saucepan over the 
fire with 2 ounces fine-cut suet, fry light brown ; then put in the 
meat, turn often, and let it cook until it becomes a light brown ; 
then add 1 onion cut in half, 2 whole small carrots, 6 whole pep- 
pers, a bouquet, Y2 clove of bruised garlic, cook and stir for a few 
minutes longer ; then add Y2 V^^^ boiling meat broth or water, cover 
and cook gently about 2 hours till -done, turning the meat twice. 
When ready to serve take the meat out, remove the strings, and lay 
it on a warm dish. Eemove the fat from the gravy, mix 1 table- 
spoonful cornstarch with Yg cup cold water, add it to the gravy, stir 
and cook for a few minutes ; add sufficient broth or boiling water to 
make a creamy sauce, then strain into a saucepan, add the juice of 
Y2 lemon, Ys teaspoonful sugar, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoon- 
f ul fine-chopped parsley, Ys teaspoonful beef extract, and the fine-cut 
boiled carrots ; pour a little of the sauce over the meat, and serve 
the remainder in a sauce bowl. Serve with macaroni and stewed 
tomatoes ; or it may be served with any kind of vegetables ; also 
nudles boiled in salted water, boiled rice, or potato dumplings may 
be served with it. This is sufficient for a family of 6, and will cost 
about 30 cents. 

Flank a la Berlinoise. — Take a piece of flank weighing 2 
pounds, rub it off with a clean damp cloth, season with 1 even table- 
spoonful seasoning salt. Place a saucepan with 2 fine-chopped 
onions and 1 ounce of butter over the fire, cook 5 minutes without 
browning ; add Y2 cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, 1 even teaspoon- 
ful seasoning salt, cook a few minutes longer ; when cold spread this 
over the meat, roll up, and tie at each end and in the center with a 
string. Set a saucepan with 2 ounces fine-cut suet over the fire, fry 
until the suet is fried out, then add 1 ounce butter, put in the meat, 
cook and turn till the meat becomes a light brown ; add 1 cup of 
broth, cover and cook % hour ; add 1 cup of sour cream, cook lYs 
hour longer, or until done. When ready to serve, lay the meat on 



254 MEATS. 

a hot dish, take off the strings, remove the fat from the gravy, mix 
1 teaspoonf ul cornstarch with a little cold water, add it to the gravy, 
cook a few minutes (if too thick add some broth or boiling water), 
strain, pour a few spoonfuls over the meat, and serve the remaining 
sauce in a sauce bowl. Mashed potatoes and beans a la creme go 
good with this dish, or boiled rice. 

Flank a la Bremolse. — Procure a nice piece of flank weigh- 
ing about 2 pounds, season it with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning 
salt, roll up, and tie at each end and in the center with a string. 
Place a saucepan with 3 ounces fine-cut suet over the fire, fry until 
light brown ; put in the meat, turn often, and cook till light brown ; 
then add 1 cup of broth, Yg cup vinegar, 2 fine-cut onions, 4 whole 
cloves, 1 bay leaf, 1 blade of mace, 10 whole peppers, 1 tablespoon- 
ful of sugar, cover and cook slowly 2 hours (if the liquid boils away 
add a little more broth and vinegar). AVhen done lay the meat on 
a warm dish, remove the fat from the gravy, mix 1 tablespoonful of 
cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the sauce, stir, and 
cook 3 minutes (if too thick add more broth or water) ; then strain, 
add Ys tablespoonful of butter to the gravy ; taste, if necessary ; add 
a little more salt, vinegar, and sugar (the sauce should have a sweet 
sour taste). When ready to serve pour a little sauce over the meat, 
and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl ; serve potato dumplings 
with this dish. 

Boiled Flank with Horseradish Sauce.— Take a nice piece 
of the lower flank of lYs pound, roll up, and tie with a string ; 
place a soup kettle with some soup bones over the fire, cover with 
cold water ; as soon as it boils put in the flank, and Ys tablespoonful 
salt, 2 onionsj 1 leek, 1 stalk of celery, a bouquet, and 1 carrot cut 
into pieces ; cover and cook slowly 2Y8 hours. When ready to serve 
remove the meat from the saucepan to a hot dish, take off the 
strings, and serve with horseradish sauce. Strain the broth, add 
some boiled rice or barley, cook a few minutes, and serve as a soup. 
Send plain boiled potatoes to the table with it. 



MEATS. 255 

Flank a I'ltalienne. — Out lYg pound of the upper flank into 
Yg-inch pieces ; place a saucepan with 2 fine-cut onions, 1 bruised 
clove of garlic, and 3 tablespoonf uls olive oil over the fire ; cook 3 
minutes ; add 1 fine-cut green pepper, cook 3 minutes longer ; season 
the meat with 1 even tablespoonful salt, Yg teaspoonful pepper. 
Put the meat in the saucepan, cover, and cook 30 minutes, stirring 
often; then add 1 quart of white broth, 1 cupful blanched rice, 
and 3 peeled and fine-cut tomatoes ; cover and cook slowly 1 hour, 
stirring often ; then serve. In place of fiank, beef from the neck 
or chuck may be taken. 

Beef Stew a I'Americaine. — Procure 2 pounds of beef, either 
from the neck, upper flank, or chuck, cut it into small pieces 1 inch 
in size ; place the meat in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boil- 
ing water, add 1 tablespoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, 2 
fine-cut onions, 4 fine-cut tomatoes; cover and cook IY2 hour; then 
add 6 peeled potatoes cut into quarters, and cook till done. Mix 1 
tablespoonful butter with Ys tablespoonful flour, add it to the stew, 
boil a few minutes, and serve. The tomatoes may be omitted and 
more potatoes may be added if liked. 

Beef stew with Tegetables.— Procure 2 pounds beef off the 
chuck, cut it into inch-sized pieces, cut Y* pound bacon into small 
pieces ; place both ingredients in a saucepan, cover with 3 pints of 
meat broth or water, add Ys teaspoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful pepper, 
2 fine-cut onions, cover and boil 1 hour ; add 1 quart fine-cut string 
beans, boil Ys liour ; then add 2 medium-sized sweet potatoes cut 
into eighths, 12 pears freed from the blossom, 4 medium-sized peeled 
potatoes cut into quarters, cover and cook till done. Ten minutes 
before serving mix 1 tablespoonful butter with Ys tablespoonful 
flour, remove the pears, put the flour and butter in center of the 
stew, cook 10 minutes ; then serve on an oblong dish with the pears 
in a circle around the dish, sprinkle 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped 
parsley over the whole, and serve (suflBcient for a family of 6). A 
stew from the upper flank or neck is prepared the same way. 



256 MEATS. 

Beef RagOtit. — Procure 2y2 pounds of beef from the neck of 
beef, cut it into iVg-inch pieces ; place a saucepan with 2 ounces 
butter over the fire, add 2 fine-cut onions, cook a few minutes, sea- 
son the meat with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt, add it to the 
onions in saucepan, cover and cook over slow fire 2Yo hours, adding 
a little water now and then. When the meat is tender, dust over 1 
tablespoonful flour, mix well ; then add 1 cupful broth, cook 10 
minutes, and serve. 

Corned Beef. — The pieces of beef that are mostly used for 
corned beef are the rump, brisket, and plate. 

Corned Beef— How to boil.— Wash the meat well, place it 
over the fire with cold water, carefully remove the scum as it rises 
to the surface of the water, boil it slowly (allowing Yg hour for each 
pound). If a large piece of corned beef is to be cooked, it is a good 
plan to boil it the day before (a piece of 12 pounds will take fully 6 
hours' boiling) ; let it get cold in the liquor, then take it out. The 
next day, if the meat is to be served hot, put the liquor over the fire, 
and when it boils put in the meat ; let it remain Yg hour without 
boiling, then serve. Boiled vegetables are generally served with 
corned beef, such as carrots and small white turnips, and laid 
around it. The vegetables may be boiled in the corned-beef liquor 
or separate. 

Corned Beef with Suet Dumplings.— Boil a piece of corned 
beef as directed in foregoing recipe. Prepare the dumplings of Yg 
cup fine-minced suet, 2 cups prepared flour, 1 egg, Ys cup cold 
water, mix all well together into a stiif dough ; cut with a tablespoon 
dumplings from this, and boil with the corned beef. As soon as the 
dumplings are done, they must be removed immediately with a 
skimmer (this may be known by cutting one through — if dry inside, 
it is done ; if not, a little more boiling is necessary. Time for boil- 
ing is from 4 to 6 minutes). Eemove the meat to a hot dish, 
and lay the dumplings around it. Small boiled carrots and white 
turnips may also be boiled in the beef liquor and served with the 



MEATS. 257 

meat. Send horseradish sauce to table with it. Corned beef may 
also be served with cauliflower (see Cauliflowee). 

Corned Beef and Cabbage.— The corned beef is boiled as in 
foregoing number. Eemove the outside leaves of a nice head of 
cabbage, cut it into 4 pieces, place it in a saucepan of boiling water, 
add 1 tablespoonf ul sugar, and boil 1 hour ; drain in a colander, and 
return the cabbage to the saucepan, cover with corned-beef liquor, 
and boil till tender, which will take Yg hour. When the meat is ready 
to serve, remove to a heated dish ; drain cabbage in colander, and 
serve in separate dish with the meat. 

Beef Rouladen, No. 1. — Take IV2 pound of beef from the upper 
round, cut it into 4 thin slices Yg of an inch thick, 7 inches long, 6 
inches wide, season with Y2 tablespoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful pepper. 
Chop fine 4 ounces lean beef and 4 ounces fresh lean pork ; soak 2 
slices bread in cold water 10 minutes, inclose it in a towel and press 
out all the water, then measure it ; there should be 1 cup. Melt 1 
ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 heaping tablespoonful fine-chopped 
onion, cook 6 minutes without browning ; add the bread, stir and 
cook 3 minutes; then remove. When cold mix it with the fine- 
chopped meat, season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful pepper, 
and Y* teaspoonful nutmeg; divide this forcemeat into 4 equal 
parts, place on each piece 1 portion of the forcemeat, spread it 
evenly over, then roll up lengthwise, tie 3 strings around each, and 
roll in flour. Place a wide saucepan with 4 ounces fine-cut suet 
over the fire, and fry till crisp ; then put in the rouladen, turn fre- 
quently, and fry till they become a nice brown all around ; then 
add 1 cupful soup stock or boiling water, also 1 fine-chopped onion, 
a few slices of carrots, cover and cook slowly IY2 hour. When 
done, put the rouladen on a warm dish, remove the strings, also the 
fat from the gravy ; mix Y2 tablespoonful cornstarch with a little 
cold water, add it to the gravy ; add sufiicient boiling water or stock 
to make a creamy sauce, boil 5 minutes, then strain ; add a little 
beef extract and a small piece of butter ; pour a few spoonfuls over 



258 MEATS. 

the rolls and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl. Serve with 
boiled potatoes and boiled cabbage ; or any other kind of vegetables 
may be served with it ; or send apple sauce and boiled potatoes to 
table with it. (Sufficient for a family of 6.) 

Beef Rouladen, No. 2. — Take lYg pound of beef off the upper 
round or lower sirloin, cut the meat into 6 thin slices 4 inches square, 
season them with Yg tablespoonf ul salt, Yg teaspoonf ul pepper, spread 
1 teaspoonful grated onion over each square, lay 3 strips of larding 
pork over each piece of meat of Y* inch in thickness, roll the pieces 
up, tie them firmly, roll them in flour, and finish the same as in 
foregoing recipe. Serve with mashed potatoes and stewed toma- 
toes. 

Kloppse. — For a family of 6 take Ys pound fine-chopped lean 
beef, Ys pound fresh lean pork (the best is to take 1 or 3 pork chops 
and mince them fine), 4 ounces fine-chopped larding pork. Soak 4 
slices bread in water 10 minutes, inclose and press it out in a towel 
then measure (there should be 1 pint). Melt 1 ounce butter and 3 
tablespoonfuls fine-minced onion, cook 6 minutes without brown- 
ing; then add the bread, stir and cook 5 minutes; remove, and 
when cold mix it with the meat, add 3 well-beaten eggs, 1 even 
tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, Y2 teaspoonful nut- 
meg. Mix well together; divide the preparation into 13 equal 
parts, roll each into a round ball (wetting the hands in cold water 
while rolling, to make the balls perfectly smooth), then roll in flour. 
Place a saucepan with 3 quarts boiling water over the fire, add 1 
onion, Y2 tablespoonful salt, Y2 fine-cut carrot, and a bouquet ; as 
soon as it boils put in the balls, cook 15 minutes ; then remove with 
a skimmer to a warm dish. Serve with the following sauce : 
Melt 1 tablespoonful beef drippings in a saucepan ; add 3 table- 
spoonfuls fine-chopped onion, cook 6 minutes without browning; 
add Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir for a few minutes, add 1 cupful of 
the boiling broth, a little beef extract; season with Y2 ©'^en tea- 
spoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 3 table- 



MEATS. 259 

spoonfuls vinegar, boil 3 minutes, and serve with the kloppse. Serve 
with potatoes boiled with their skin. In place of onion sauce, the fol- 
lowing sauces may be served : anchovy, tomato, or horseradish. 

Falscher Hase^ or Mock Hare. — Half a pound fine-chopped 
veal, Ya pound fine-chopped beef, Yg pound lean fresh pork, 4 ounces 
larding pork, all chopped fine ; 4 ounces stale bread without the 
rind, 2 yolks and 1 whole egg, 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onions, 
IY2 even tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper, 1 teaspoonful 
nutmeg (if handy, a little fine-chopped green thyme or marjoram). 
Soak the bread in cold water 10 minutes, inclose in a towel, press 
out all the water ; melt IY2 ounce butter in a saucepan, add the 
fine-chopped onion, cook 6 minutes without browning ; then add the 
bread, stir and cook 5 minutes ; remove, and when cold mix it with 
the meats, the seasoning, and well-beaten eggs ; work this well to- 
gether ; then lay on a board, form into a long loaf, wet the hands 
and make it smooth all over, brush it over with beaten egg, cover 
with fine bread crumbs, then lard the top with fine strips of larding 
pork. Place 3 slices of larding pork with the roll on top in a bak- 
ing pan ; pour 1 ounce melted butter over the roll and 2 table- 
spoonfuls water in the bottom of pan, set in the oven and bake 1 
hour (if it should get too brown, cover with buttered paper) ; when 
done, transfer the mock hare to a warm dish ; add to the gravy in 
pan after removing the pork Y2 tablespoonful flour ; stir for a few 
minutes on top the stove, add Y2 piiit of stock or boiling water, with 
% teaspoonful beef extract, cook 3 minutes, then strain. Season 
with salt, pepper, and the juice of Ya lemon ; add Y2 ounce butter 
and 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley, pour a few spoonfuls 
gravy over the mock hare, and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl. 
Garnish the mock hare with fried tomatoes and patricia potatoes. 
Note : The meat must be ground or chopped exceedingly fine and all 
stringy parts rejected ; also the onions should be chopped very fine. 

Meat Pudding. — One pound fine-chopped lean beef, 1 pound 
fine-chopped veal, Y2 pound fine-minced larding pork, 1 tablespoon- 



260 MEATS. 

ful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper, Y2 teaspoonful nutmeg, 3 well-beaten 
eggs, 4 ounces stale bread, 1 grated onion ; soak the bread in 
cold water 10 minutes, inclose it in a towel and press out all the 
water. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add the bread, 
stir and cook 5 minutes, then remove. When cold mix it with the 
above-named ingredients, butter a pudding form, sprinkle it with 
bread crumbs, put in the preparation, pack it down firmly ; close 
the form tightly, set it in a vessel with boiling water to reach one 
third up the form, cover and boil 2 hours. When ready to serve 
turn the pudding on to a dish, and serve with either mushroom, 
anchovy, tomato, caper, Hollandaise, or horseradish sauce. Serve 
mashed potatoes and any kind of vegetables in season with it. 

Smoked Beef Tongue, Boiled. — If the tongue is very dry 
soak it over night in cold water ; in the morning place over the 
fire with cold water, and boil slowly till done ; leave it in the liquor 
till cold. Take it out, remove the thick skin, cut the tongue in 
thin slices, arrange neatly on a dish, and garnish with parsley or 
scraped horseradish, and serve for tea or lunch. 

Beef Tongue a la Financiere. — Place a well-washed fresh 
beef tongue in a soup kettle, add some soup bones and, if handy, 
a shank of veal, set the kettle over the fire ; as soon as it boils add 
1 tablespoonful salt, Yg tablespoonful pepper, 2 onions, 1 carrot, a 
bouquet, 1 leek, 12 whole peppers, cover and cook from 3 to 4 
hours. When done take out the tongue, remove the skin, trim 
nicely, lay on a hot dish. Have in the meantime a financiere sauce 
prepared, pour a little over the tongue, garnish with timbales of 
spinach and small cooked potato balls. Serve with the remaining 
sauce in a sauce bowl. 

Beef Tongue with Baisin Sauce.— Boil a fresh beef tongue 
as in foregoing recipe. When done pare off the skin, remove all 
black and hard parts, cut the tongue into y4-inch-thick slices, put it 
in its original form on a warm dish. Have in the meantime a 
raisin sauce prepared ; pour a few tablespoonfuls sauce over the 



MEATS. 261 

tongue, and garnish with small potato dumplings and boiled chest- 
nuts. Serve with the sauce; or put the slices in the sauce, let 
them stand for 10 minutes, then serve and garnish with farina 
dumplings. 

Beef Tongue a la Jardiniere. — Boil a fresh beef tongue as a 
la financi^re ; dress the prepared tongue on a warm dish, pour over 
and around the dish 1 pint of cooked carrot balls and 1 pint of cooked 
green peas, sprinkle over 1 tablespoonful parsley, and serve with 
boiled potatoes ; or lay small boiled potatoes in a circle around the 
dish. Any kind of vegetables in season may be taken in place of 
the above. 

Boiled Beef Tongue a la Frankfurt.— Boil and prepare a 
fresh beef tongue the same as tongue a la financi^re, and garnish 
with cooked red cabbage ; serve with Spanish sauce. 

Beef Tongue^ Salted. — Take a fresh beef tongue, rub it all 
over with plenty of salt and as much saltpeter as will lie on a 5- 
cent piece, lay the tongue into a deep dish and se^t it 4 days in a 
cool place, turning it once or twice during that time ; it is then 
ready to be boiled. 

Beef Tongue Bagout. — Place a well- washed fresh tongue in a 
saucepan over the fire, cover with cold water ; as soon as it boils 
add 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper, 2 onions, and a bou- 
quet, cover and boil slowly from SYg to 3 hours. When done take 
out the tongue, remove the skin, cut into Y4-inch-thick slices, put 
the slices in a saucepan with a little of their broth to keep warm. 
Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add Yg cupful fine-cut onions, 
cook 6 minutes, or until they have obtained a light-brown color ; 
then add 2 tablespoonfuls flour, stir for a few minutes ; add IY2 
pint of the tongue broth, IY2 teaspoonful beef extract, Y2 cupful 
sherry wine, cook 5 minutes ; then strain into a clean saucepan, 
add Yz can mushrooms, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cook 15 minutes ; 
then add the slices of tongue without their broth, add 18 small 
cooked forcemeat balls, and a little sugar color. Serve on a warm 



262 MEATS. 

dish and garnish with a border of rice, boiled spaghetti, nudles, or 
fleurons. 

Boiled Corned Beef Tongue. — Take a corned tongue, fasten 
the pointed end to the root of the tongue with a skewer, and tie 
firmly with a string, to keep the tongue in a perfect shape ; then 
place it in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and boil slowly from 
2Y3 to 3 hours. When done take the tongue from the saucepan, re- 
move the skin and trim neatly ; place in a baking pan with Y2 pint 
of broth or stock ; set in a hot oven to roast 20 minutes, basting fre- 
quently. In the meantime melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 
2 tablespoonf uls fine-cut onions, the same of carrots, stir and cook 5 
minutes; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 2 minutes; add Y2 pint 
stock or boiling water with a little beef extract, also the gravy from 
the tongue, 1 gill of mushroom liquor, 1 even teaspoonful salt, % 
teaspoonful pepper, cook 5 minutes ; then strain (if the sauce should 
not be brown enough, add a little sugar color) ; pour 1 gill of sauce 
over the tongue, then place it on a warm dish ; lay a border of 
spinach a la ere me around it, and serve with the remaining sauce 
and boiled potatoes ; or the potatoes may be arranged on top the 
spinach. 

Beef Liyer, Fried. — Procure V-j^ pound of beef liver cut into 
slices, wipe with a cloth, season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, Yg 
teaspoonful pepper, and dust with flour ; melt 1 tablespoonful lard 
and Ys tablespoonful butter in a frying pan ; when hot add as many 
of the slices of liver as will conveniently go in, fry light brown on 
both sides, about 6 minutes on each (the liver should be well done, 
but not dried up ; when done cut a piece ; if rare it must cook a 
little longer). Serve with Lyonnaise or baked potatoes. Some fine 
slices of bacon may be fried, and the liver in the bacon fat ; then 
serve with the bacon. In place of lard, beef fat may be taken. 

Beef Kidney Saute. — Cut a beef kidney lengthwise in two, 
remove the white fatty part from the center, cut the kidney into 
small pieces ; season with 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful 



MEATS. 263 

pepper, mix the seasoning well with the kidney. Melt '2 ounces 
butter in a saucepan, add 2 heaping tablespoonfuls fine-chopped 
onion, cook 4 minutes without browning ; add the kidney, cover 
and cook 5 minutes ; sprinkle over 1 teaspoonf ul flour, add 1 gill of 
sherry wine, 1 gill of boiling water, and Yg teaspoonful beef extract, 
cook 5 minutes longer ; then serve on a warm dish garnished with 
bread croutons or rice timbales. 

Beef Kidney Bouchees. — Split a beef kidney in two, remove 
every particle of fat and stringy part, wash and wipe the kidneys 
dry, then chop fine. Place a saucepan with lYg ounce butter over 
the fire, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, cook 6 minutes ; 
then add the chopped kidney, cover, and cook 5 minutes ; add Yg 
cupful sherry wine, 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful 
pepper, cover, and cook 5 minutes ; sprinkle over 1 even table- 
spoonful flour, mix well, add 1 cupful boiling milk, continue to 
cook for a few minutes ; have ready 6 small bouchee cases of puff 
paste, heat them in the oven, then fill with the preparation and 
serve for bouchee. (See my book Desserts and Salads, recipe 711.) 

Beef Kidney, Boiled. — Split a beef kidney in half, remove the 
white fatty part in center, then wash and place the kidney in a 
saucepan ; cover with boiling water, add 1 onion, a small bouquet, 
1 even tablespoonful salt, a few slices of carrots, 1 even teaspoonful 
pepper. Cover and boil slowly lYs hour, and cool in the broth. 

Beef Kidney on Toast. — Boil a beef kidney as in foregoing 
recipe. Place a saucepan with 1 fine-chopped onion over the fire, add 
1 ounce butter, cook 5 minutes without browning ; add 1 tablespoon- 
ful flour, cook 2 minutes ; add 1 pint boiled milk, a small bouquet, 1 
even teaspoonful salt, Y* teaspoonful white pepper, cook 6 minutes ; 
then strain, add the fine-chopped kidneys to the sauce, cook a few 
minutes ; add a small piece of butter, pour over 4 slices of buttered 
toast, and serve. A plainer way is to chop the boiled kidney fine, 
place it in a saucepan, cover with 1 pint milk, mix 1 tablespoonful 
flour with 1 tablespoonful butter ; as soon as the milk boils, put in 



264 MEATS. 

the butter and flour, stir and boil till smooth ; season with pepper 
and salt, and pour over toast. 

Beef Kidney a la Baden-Baden.— Split a beef kidney in half, 
remove the white fat and all stringy parts, cut the kidney in small 
Y4-inch-square pieces. Place a saucepan over the fire, add 2 ounces 
butter ; as soon as hot, put in the kidney, season with 1 even table- 
spoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonf ul pepper, stir and cook 5 minutes ; 
add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut mushrooms, the same of truffles, 
and Y2 cupful sherry wine, cover, and cook 6 minutes; mix the 
yolks of 2 eggs with Yg pint of rich sweet cream, add it to the kid- 
neys, stir and beat till nearly boiling, add a little Cayenne pepper, 
and serve on a warm dish. Garnish with fleurons, or serve on 
buttered toast. (For fleurons, see my book Desserts and Salads, 
recipe 721.) 

Fried Tripe a la Mariniere.— Wash IY2 pound tripe, cut 
it into pieces 4 inches long and 2 inches wide, season with 1 even 
tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper. Place the tripe in a 
bowl, mix 1 pint vinegar with Y2 pint water, pour it over ; add 1 
sliced onion, 3 cloves, 1 bay leaf, a blade of mace, and 12 whole 
peppers, cover and let it stand 24 hours, or longer. When ready to 
cook take out the tripe, wipe dry, and dust with flour; beat 2 eggs 
in a soupplate till light, take each piece of tripe separately on a 
fork, dip it in the beaten egg, then cover with fine sifted bread 
crumbs. When all are prepared thus, place a frying pan over the 
fire, add Ys tablespoonful lard or fat ; as soon as hot lay in as many 
tripe pieces as will conveniently go in, fry light brown on both sides 
When all are done, arrange the tripe on a warm dish, garnish with 
water cress ; serve with French fried potatoes and hot biscuits. 

Tripe a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Cut IY2 pound well washed 
and dried tripe into pieces 2 inches wide and 4 inches long. Mix 3 
tablespoonfuls olive oil with 3 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, 
the juice of 1 lemon, 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful 
pepper ; pour this over the tripe and mix it well together ; add Y« 



MEATS. 265 

bunch fresh parsley, 2 cloves, and a sprig of thyme, cover and let it 
stand 2 hours. When ready to cook wipe the tripe off with a clean 
towel on both sides, dust it with flour, dip each piece into beaten 
egg and cover with fresh-grated bread crumbs ; fry light brown in 
lard or fat. Arrange the tripe on a hot dish and spread 2 ounces 
maitre d'hdtel butter over them, and serve with Saratoga chips. 

Tripe h I'Espagnole. — Place a saucepan with 3 tablespoon- 
fuls oil or 2 ounces butter over the fire, add Y2 cupful fine-chopped 
onion, Y3 fine-chopped green pepper, 1 bruised clove of garlic, cook 
5 minutes without browning (if Jiandy, add Yg cupful fine-chopped 
mushrooms). Wash and cut IY3 pound tripe into inch-sized pieces, 
season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful pepper ; mix 
the tripe well with the seasoning; add them to the saucepan, cover, 
and cook 10 minutes ; add 2 fine-cut tomatoes, cook 5 minutes, dust 
over 1 teaspoonful flour, add 1 cupful boiling water with 1 teaspoon- 
ful beef extract, cook a few minutes longer ; then serve on a warm 
dish ; sprinkle over 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley. 

Stewed Tripe. — Cut IY2 pound well- washed tripe into small 
narrow strips 1 inch long and Y4 inch wide. Place a saucepan with 
2 ounces butter over the fire, add 1 fine-chopped onion, cook 5 min- 
utes ; season the tripe with 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even tea- 
spoonful pepper, add the tripe, cover, and cook 10 minutes. Melt 
1 ounce butter in a small saucepan, add Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir 
and cook 2 minutes; add Yg pint white broth (if handy, add a little 
mushroom liquor), a small bouquet, 1 even teaspoonful salt, cook 6 
minutes. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with the juice of Ys lemon, add 
it to the sauce, remove the bouquet, add the sauce to the tripe, pour 
it on to a warm dish ; sprinkle over 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped 
parsley. Garnish with small potato balls and serve. 

Ox Tail a la Printanier. — Cut 2 large ox tails at the joints 
into 2-inch lengths, place them in a kettle of boiling water, drain 
and cool in cold water. Cover the bottom of a saucepan with 2 
ounces fine-cut salt pork, Yg slice of thin ham, add 2 onions, 1 carrot. 



266 MEATS. 

a small shank of veal cut into pieces, and a bouquet ; lay the ox tails 
on top of this, add Yg tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper, cover 
with cold water, and boil 3 hours. Remove the ox tails, strain the 
broth, put a little of the broth over the ox tails, and set in a warm 
place ; reduce the remaining broth by boiling to 1 pint. Lay the 
ox tails in a roasting pan, pour over the reduced broth, set the pan 
in a hot oven, roast and baste frequently till it has obtained a glaze, 
which will take about 25 minutes. Melt 2 ounces butter in a sauce- 
pan, add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir 3 minutes, add the gravy 
from the ox tails ; then add sufficient boiling water to make a creamy 
sauce; add a small piece of butter, a little paprika, and the juice 
of Ya lemon. Pour the sauce over the ox tails, and garnish with 
cooked carrots, cauliflower roses, green peas, asparagus tops, and wax 
beans cut diamond shape. Serve with small boiled potatoes. 

Ox-tail Stew a la Mexlcaine. — Cut 2 ox tails into 2-inch 
lengths, scald in boiling water, and cool in cold water. Melt 1 ounce 
butter in a saucepan, add 2 fine-cut onions, 1 clove of bruised garlic, 
1 fine-chopped green pepper without the seeds, 1 fine-cut carrot, cook 
6 minutes ; season the ox tails with 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoon- 
ful pepper; mix well with the seasoning, add to the saucepan, stir 
and cook 10 minutes ; then cover with boiling water, cover and cook 
2Y3 hours. Put 1 quart fine-cut string beans with boiling water 
and 1 teaspoonful salt over the fire, cook 30 minutes ; then drain, 
add them to the ox tails, add 3 peeled sweet potatoes cut into quarters, 
3 large peeled potatoes cut also in quarters, Y2 pi^it fine-cut white tur- 
nips, Y2 piiit small white onions, cover and cook till done. Then 
melt 1 tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful 
flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add IY2 cupful of the ox- tail broth, 
cook a few minutes ; then add it to the stew, and serve. In place 
of butter the Spanish people take oil. 

Stewed Ox Tails with Cabbage.— Cut 2 ox tails at the 
joints into 3-inch lengths ; place in a saucepan, cover with boiling 
water, let remain 5 minutes, then drain ; pour fresh cold water over, 



MEATS. 267 

and when cold remove and drain again. Place a saucepan with 3 
ounces fine-cut larding pork and 2 ounces fine-cut raw ham over the 
fire, add 1 fine-cut carrot, 2 fine-cut onions, cook and stir 6 minutes ; 
then put in the ox tails, season with 1 even tablespoonf ul salt, Y^ even 
tablespoonful pepper, cover with white broth, and add a bouquet ; 
cover and cook slowly 3 hours. Eemove the ox tails to a clean sauce- 
pan, strain the broth over, and keep warm on side of stove. Melt 2 
ounces butter in a saucepan, add lYg tablespoonful flour, stir a few 
minutes ; add 3 cupfuls broth from the ox tails, 1 teaspoonful beef 
extract, cook 5 minutes ; season with 74 teaspoonful pepper, Y2 tea- 
spoonful nutmeg, drain the ox tails, put them on a hot dish, pour 
the sauce over, and garnish the dish with cabbage rolls and slices of 
boiled bacon. 

Cabbage Eolls. — Cut a good-sized head of cabbage into 6 
pieces, put them in a kettle of boiling water, boil 3 minutes, then 
remove and drain ; remove the center from each piece of cabbage, 
and set aside ; tie the pieces with a string into long rolls, place in a 
saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 1 tablespoonful sugar, cook 
1 hour ; then drain the cabbage, return it to saucepan, add 1 pint 
of the ox-tail broth, a piece of butter, and cook till tender. At the 
same time have 4 ounces of lean bacon boiled, lay the cabbage rolls 
in a circle around the dish, and lay a thin slice of bacon on top of 
each cabbage roll. 

Smoked Beef a la Bechamel.— Melt 1 ounce butter in a 
saucepan, add Y2 tablespoonful flour, cook and stir 3 minutes ; add 
1 cup of milk, a small bouquet, 1 gill of mushroom liquor, Y4 tea- 
spoonful white pepper, 6 whole peppers, cook 6 minutes ; then 
strain into a clean saucepan. Place Y2 pound smoked beef in a 
saucepan, cover with boiling water, let it cook 2 minutes ; then 
drain and chop fine ; add the beef to the sauce, cook for a few 
minutes ; then pour over 4 slices of buttered toast, and serve. 

Gulash of Beef. — Take 2 pounds of beef from the round, cut 
it into inch-sized pieces ; place a saucepan over the fire with 1 
18 



268 MEATS. 

tablespoouful butter and 1 tablespoonful beef fat; add 3 large 
onions cut into slices and fry them light brown ; season the meat 
with 1 even tablespoonful salt and 1 even teaspoonful pepper, put it 
in a saucepan over the fire, cover tightly and stew slowly 2 hours ; 
stir frequently, and add by degrees a little boiling water. Shortly 
before serving dash over a little flour and add a pinch of Cayenne 
pepper. Serve on a heated dish with mashed potatoes and stewed 
tomatoes, or serve with rice timbales. 

Marrow Bones on Toast. — Cut some marrow bones into 
lengths from 3 to 4 inches long, wrap them separately in a cloth, 
place them in a saucepan of boiling salted water, boil slowly about 
25 minutes ; then remove, take off the cloth, arrange the bones on 
a dish in the folds of a napkin, and serve with toasted bread. An- 
other way to serve is to take the marrow from the bones and lay it 
over the toast. 

Beefs Heart, Stuffed. — Remove the muscles from the inside 
of a beef's heart, wash it well, wipe dry and stuff it with sausage 
forcemeat, tie it with a strong string, and finish the same as beef 
heart, potted. 

Beef Heart a la Mariniere. — Lard a well-cleaned beef heart 
with larding pork the same as for sour roast; season with 1 even 
tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper ; place in a deep bowl or 
stone jar, cover with 1 pint vinegar, Yg pint water ; add 2 fine-sliced 
onions, 2 bay leaves, 12 whole peppers, 1 blade of mace, and 4 cloves, 
cover and let it stand 3 days, turning it once each day. When ready 
to cook place a saucepan with 2 ounces fine-cut larding pork over 
the fire, fry light brown ; add 2 ounces butter. Take the heart out 
of the marinade, wipe it dry, put it in the saucepan, turn often and 
cook till light brown ; then add the marinade the heart laid in, 
add 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, cover and cook slowly 3 hours. "When 
done lay the heart on a warm dish ; strain the gravy, mix 1 table- 
spoonful cornstarch with a little cold water, add it to the gravy, 
cook 3 minutes (if too thick add some boiling water) ; strain and 



MEATS. 269 

serve with the meat. Serve with potato dumplings and stewed 
prunes. 

Beef Heart, Potted. — Season a well- washed beef heart with 
Y2 tablespoonful salt and Y2 teaspoonful pepper. Place a saucepan 
with 2 ounces fine-cut larding pork over the fire, fry light brown ; 
then put in the heart, cook, and turn frequently until it has obtained 
a nice brown color ; then add Yg pint of broth or boiling water, 2 
onions, a bouquet, and a small carrot, cover and cook slowly till 
done (add more water or broth if necessary, but not too much at a 
time, turning the heart occasionally ; to become tender it should 
cook slowly from 3 to 4 hours). When done lay the heart on a hot 
dish, remove the fat from gravy, mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch in 
a little cold water, add it to the gravy, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 
sufficient boiling water to make 1 pint of sauce, boil 3 minutes; 
then strain, pour a little of the sauce over the heart, and serve the 
remainder in a sauce bowl. Serve with macaroni a I'ltalienne or 
mashed potatoes and stewed tomatoes. 

Beefsteak Pie. — Cut 2 pounds sirloin steak into inch-sized 
pieces, season them with Y2 tablespoonful seasoning salt. Place a 
saucepan with 2 ounces butter over the fire, add 2 fine-chopped 
onions, cook 6 minutes without browning ; add the meat, cover, 
and cook slowly IY2 hour (if it becomes too dry, add a little meat 
broth, stirring occasionally). Remove the meat, set aside to cool ; 
add IY2 tablespoonful flour to the gravy in the saucepan, stir for a 
few minutes over the fire ; add 3 cups of meat broth or boiling water 
with 1 teaspoonful beef extract, boil 10 minutes ; pour Y2 cup of 
the gravy over the meat, and set aside. Place the saucepan with 
the remaining gravy in a vessel of hot water on the stove to keep 
warm. At the same time boil 6 medium-sized potatoes in salted 
water 15 minutes, then drain, and when cold cut them into thin 
slices. As soon as the meat is cold, line the sides of a 3-pint pie 
dish with rich pie crust, put in half the meat, then half the sliced 
potatoes, sprinkle over Y2 teaspoonful seasoning salt, and 1 tea- 



270 MEATS. 

spoonful fine-minced onion; lay Yg tablespoonful butter in small 
pieces over the potatoes, put in the remaining meat and potatoes, 
add a little seasoning salt and butter, and cover with the same crust. 
Cut an opening in the center of crust, place it in a medium-hot 
oven, bake 20 minutes, then draw the pie to front of oven ; place a 
small funnel in the opening of top crust and pour Yg pint of the 
gravy through the funnel into the pie ; set it back in the oven and 
bake till done, which will take about 1 hour (if the pie should 
brown too much, cover with buttered paper). When ready to serve 
take the pie from the oven, pour in as much sauce as the pie will 
hold, and serve. (For pie crust see recipe No. 663 in my book 
Desserts and Salads.) 

Trolley Beef. — One quart fine-chopped cooked soup meat, Ys 
cup of vinegar, 1 teaspoonf ul salt, 1 teaspoonf ul pepper, Y4 teaspoon- 
ful allspice, Y4 tablespoonful mace, (and, if handy, 2 tablespoonfuls 
chervil), vinegar, 2 fine-chopped onions. Place the onions, vinegar, 
salt, pepper, and spice in a saucepan over the fire, stir, and cook 5 
minutes ; then add the meat, and cook 5 minutes longer ; turn the 
meat into a form and set in a cool place. Serve cold, cut into 
slices. 

Fricadellen. — Chop fine any kind of cold cooked meat, soak half 
a small loaf of stale bread in cold water, when soft press it out in a 
towel. Place a saucepan over the fire with 1 tablespoonful butter, 
add 2 fine-chopped onions, cook 5 minutes without browning ; then 
add the bread, stir over the fire 6 minutes, then turn it into a dish. 
When cold mix it with 1 pint fine-chopped meat, season with Y2 
teaspoonful pepper, 1 teaspoonf ul salt, and add 1 egg ; mix all well 
together and form it into round balls the size of an egg, press them 
flat to Y2 inch in thickness. Place a frying pan over the fire with 
1 tablespoonful drippings, lard, or butter, when hot put in the frica- 
dellen, and fry light brown on both sides. Serve on a warm dish 
with fried or boiled potatoes. Apple sauce or any kind of stewed 
fruit may be served with them. 



MEATS. 271 

Irish Stew of Cold Meat. — Cut any kind of cold cooked meat 
into 1-inch pieces ; take for 1 quart of such pieces 8 good-sized pota- 
toes, pare and cut them into slices, also 3 large onions. Put the 
meat with the vegetables in alternate layers in a saucepan, sprinkle 
1 tablespoonful seasoning salt between them and dust over each 
layer a little flour ; put Yg tablespoonful butter on top, then add 
sufficient boiling water to cover all; put on the lid and boil 1 
hour, then serve. Another way is to add to the vegetables 1 quart 
of fine-cut cabbage, boiling the same way. 

Pillau of Cold Beef. — Melt 1 tablespoonful butter or drip- 
pings in a saucepan, add 2 fine-chopped onions, cook 3 minutes 
without browning, then add 1 quart fine-cut cold roast beef, 1 even 
tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, cover and cook 10 
minutes, stirring occasionally. In the meantime place 1 cupful rice 
covered with cold water in a saucepan over the fire, boil 5 minutes, 
drain in a sieve, rinse off with cold water, add the rice to the beef, 
add 2 fine-cut tomatoes, cover the whole with boiling water, stock, 
or broth, and boil slowly 1 hour. Serve on a warm dish, and gar- 
nish with fried or baked tomatoes. 

Cold Boast Beef warmed over. — Put the gravy from the 
beef in a stew pan ; add a little boiling broth or water and a piece 
of butter, let it cook 2 minutes ; then have the meat cut into slices, 
lay it in the sauce, cover and stand on side of stove ; let the meat get 
heated through without boiling. Serve on a warm dish, and pour 
the gravy over it. Serve with stewed tomatoes and mashed potatoes. 
If the cold roast beef is rare, place it in a roasting pan with 4 ounces 
suet under and over it, then roast 20 minutes in a hot oven. 

Cold Roast Beef stewed with Tegetahles. — Place a sauce- 
pan with 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire, add 2 fine-chopped 
onions, and cook 5 minutes ; add the beef gravy (if there is any) 
and 1 can tomatoes ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Yg teaspoonful 
pepper, and Y2 tablespoonful sugar, boil 3 minutes, then put in the 
beef, cover and cook slowly 1 hour. At the same time boil 6 large 



272 MEATS. 

potatoes in salted water 10 minutes ; then take them out and cut 
each into quarters. Fifteen minutes before serving, lay the potatoes 
on top the beef, and boil till done. In serving, take the potatoes 
out, lay the meat on a hot dish, the potatoes around it, and serve 
the sauce with it. Also boiled spaghetti may be served with it. 

Sour RagoM. — Cut 2 pounds of cold boiled or roasted beef into 
inch-sized pieces, place it with the gravy, if there is any, in a sauce- 
pan, add 1 pint of boiling water, Yg pitit vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls 
sugar, 2 fine-cut onions, 4 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 1 bay leaf, 6 whole 
peppers, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, cover and 
boil slowly one hour, then mix Yg tablespoonful flour with a little 
cold water, add it to the meat, boil for a few minutes, and serve with 
potato dumplings. 

Corned Beef Uash. — Chop very fine some cold cooked corned 
beef and cold boiled potatoes, 1 pint of each. Place a saucepan 
with 1 tablespoonful butter and 1 gill fine-chopped onion over the 
fire, cook slowly 5 minutes without browning ; add 1 tablespoonful 
flour, stir and cook 2 minutes, add Ys piiit of stock or broth (if 
neither of them are handy add Y2 pint of boiling water, and Y2 tea- 
spoonful beef extract) ; stir and cook 3 minutes ; add the hash, 
stirring and cooking over the fire 6 minutes, season with Y* tea- 
spoonful pepper, and salt to taste ; then serve. 

Hash. — Chop fine cold cooked beef and cold boiled potatoes, 1 
pint of each. Place a frying pan with 1 tablespoonful drippings or 
butter over the fire, add Y2 cupful fine-chopped onion, cook 3 min- 
utes; add the hash, Y* teaspoonful pepper, and salt to taste, stir 
and cook 5 minutes ; add Y2 cupful boiling water, stir and cook a 
few minutes longer, then serve. If the hash is wanted brown, let it 
remain on the stove a few minutes longer without stirring, until 
brown on the under side, then turn it on to a hot dish in the shape 
of an omelet and serve. 

Trying out Suet. — The fresh suet should be cut into small 
pieces and placed in cold water for 12 hours ; change the water 



MEATS. 273 

twice during that time, then drain in colander, and put in an iron 
pot with 1 quart of milk to 10 pounds of suet ; let it boil slowly 
until clean, stirring frequently, to prevent burning. Strain it 
through a sieve into a stone jar ; when cold tie paper over the jar 
and set in a cool place. Half lard and half suet may be treated the 
same way. This is used in many households for pie crust, frying and 
roasting meats, and for seasoning vegetables in place of butter. An- 
other way is to cut the beef fat into small pieces, place it in a 
saucepan over a slow fire, and cook gradually until clear, then 
strain it through a sieve into a jar. Cover and keep in a cool place. 
(In place of all beef fat, half beef fat and half leaf lard may be 
taken and tried out in the same way.) 

To clarify Drippings. — Place the drippings in a saucepan 
over a slow fire, boil gently 5 minutes, then remove, and free the 
fat from all scum ; let stand 10 minutes, then strain into a clean jar, 
and keep it in a cool place; use for frying purposes. Any fat 
which can not be used for cooking purposes should be melted, 
strained, and converted into soap. 

Soap. — Put ] can of lye or potash into a vessel, add 1 quart cold 
water, stir often and let stand till dissolved ; put 4 ounces borax 
into another vessel with 1 quart boiling water, let it stand till cold. 
Melt 4 pounds of fat, strain it in a large dish pan, and let stand till 
lukewarm, then stir constantly, while adding slowly first the dis- 
solved potash, then the borax ; continue to stir 20 minutes ; it will 
then have the appearance of thick honey ; pour the soap into a deep 
pan, and set aside to cool. Next day, turn it out and cut it into 
bars. Keep in a dry place. 

Soup Meat a la Fanny. — Lay the soup meat when done in a 
saucepan, with some of the soup stock, and set in a cool place till 
next day. Thirty minutes before serving, place a deep frying pan 
with 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire, add 2 fine-chopped onions, 
cook 5 minutes without browning ; then add 1 tablespoonful flour, 
stir and cook a few minutes ; add Y2 cupful vinegar, 1 teaspoonful 



274 MEATS. 

salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful sugar, and 1 cupful 
broth, cook 3 minutes ; cut 2 pounds of cold cooked soup meat into 
slices, put it in the sauce, and let simmer on side of stove for 15 
minutes ; then lay the meat on a hot dish and pour the sauce over. 
Serve with potato, bread, or flour dumplings. 

VEAL. 

Roasted Leg of Teal a I'Allemande. — Procure a nice leg 
of veal from 10 to 12 pounds in weight, remove the thin skin with 
a sharp knife, and lard it closely with fine strips of larding pork, 
using a fine larding needle ; season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning 
salt. Put 3 slices of larding pork in a roasting pan, place the meat 
on top of pork, pour 2 ounces melted butter over the meat, set in a 
hot oven, roast 20 minutes, basting every 5 minutes with its own 
gravy ; next add 1 cupful boiling water ; continue roasting and 
basting frequently for 30 minutes, then add 1 pint of sour cream, 
and roast till done. If the oven is hot allow 15 minutes to a 
pound ; in a slow oven it will take longer. Stick a larding needle 
in center of meat ; if it penetrates easily it is done ; if offering the 
slightest resistance continue the roasting. When ready to serve, lay 
the meat on a warm dish ; remove the fat from the gravy, mix 1 
even tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the 
sauce, stir and cook a few minutes on top the stove ; add sufficient 
boiling water or broth to make 1 pint of sauce ; cook a few minutes, 
then strain. Pour Y2 giU of the sauce over the meat, and serve the 
remainder in a sauce bowl ; garnish with rice timbales, and serve 
with mashed potatoes and stewed fruit, or serve with compote and 
salad ; or any kind of young cooked vegetables may be served with it. 

Roasted Leg of Yeal a rAmericaine. — Procure a leg of 
veal, wipe it off with a clean damp cloth, season with 1 even table- 
spoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper. Lay the meat in a baking 
pan, spread 2 ounces butter over the top, set in a medium-hot oven, 
roast 10 minutes ; then baste the meat well with the butter, add 1 
cup boiling water, continue to roast, basting it frequently till done j 



MEATS. 2Y5 

if tlie gravy browns too mucli add a little water now and then. 
When done, lay the meat on a hot dish ; remove the fat from gravy, 
mix 1 even tablespoonful flour with 1 gill of cold water, add it to 
the gravy, stir for a few minutes on top the stove ; add sufficient 
boiling water to make a creamy sauce, then strain ; serve with 
mashed potatoes and succotash, and grated horseradish mixed with 
vinegar, salt, and a little sugar. 

Roast Loin of Teal. — Procure a loin of veal weighing about 
5 pounds ; mix 1 tablespoonful salt with 1 teaspoonful pepper, rub 
this all over the meat, lay it in a roasting pan with a few slices of 
larding pork and 1 tablespoonful butter on top of it. Place the 
meat in a hot oven, let roast 10 minutes, then baste with the butter ; 
add 72 piiit boiling water ; continue roasting and frequently basting 
until done. Shortly before serving transfer the meat to a hot dish ; 
remove the fat from the gravy; mix Yg tablespoonful cornstarch 
with Ys gill of cold water, add it to the gravy, cook for a few min- 
utes on top of stove ; add sufficient boiling water to make a creamy 
sauce, cook a few minutes longer, then strain through a sieve ; pour 
2 tablespoonfuls of the sauce over the meat and serve the remainder 
in a sauce bowl. Serve with mashed potatoes and spinach a la 
cr6me. 

Loin of Teal a la Princesse.— Procure a nice loin of veal 
of 9 pounds, remove all the bones, kidney, and fat, season with 1 
tablespoonful seasoning salt; put the kidney back in its former 
place, then roll the meat up, secure its shape with 4 strings, making 
a knot at each end. Lay the meat in a roasting pan with three 
slices of larding pork under it, spread over the top 2 ounces butter, 
add 1 sliced onion and Ys sliced carrot, set the pan in a hot oven, 
and roast, basting it frequently with its own gravy until the meat 
has obtained a light-brown color ; then add 1 pint of boiling broth 
(made from the bones), continue to roast and baste till the meat is 
done, which will take from lYs to 2 hours. Fifteen minutes before 
serving take the meat from the oven, remove the strings, and lay it 



276 MEATS. 

in a shallow baking pan. Beat up 1 egg until very light, mix 1 
cupful fresh-grated bread crumbs with 4 ounces grated cheese; 
brush the meat over with the beaten egg, sprinkle over the bread 
crumbs, so that the sides and top are completely covered with the 
crumbs and cheese. Eeturn the meat to the oven, let it roast until 
of a fine golden color, then remove. Dress the meat on a hot dish, 
garnish with timbales of macaroni, and serve with princess sauce. 

Peincess Sauce. — Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 
fine-chopped onion, cover and cook 6 minutes without browning ; 
add Yg tablespoonful flour, cook a few minutes ; add 4 peeled 
tomatoes cut into pieces, season with 74 teaspoonful salt, the same 
of pepper, and Yg teaspoonful sugar, cover and cook slowly 15 min- 
utes ; then press it through a sieve into a clean saucepan, add Y2 tea- 
spoonful beef extract, Y2 ounce butter, stir over the fire till boiling, 
then remove to side of stove. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Y2 cup- 
ful rich sweet cream, add it to the tomatoes, stir for a few minutes 
over the fire without boiling, then serve. 

Saddle of Teal a PAllemande. — Procure a double loin of 
veal without the kidney, which is called a saddle of veal, turn the 
saddle over and saw through all the ribs near the backbone ; saw off 
the points of the ribs ; take out carefully the whole backbone with- 
out injuring the meat on top ; next remove the thin skin on top, 
and lard the meat closely with fine strips of larding pork, roll up 
and tie it firmly with strings ; season with IY2 even tablespoonful 
of seasoning salt, rubbing the seasoning well into the meat. Lay 
the saddle in a roasting pan, pour 4 ounces melted butter over the 
meat, set in a hot oven, and roast till the outside has obtained a fine 
brown, basting frequently with its own gravy ; add 1 cupful boiling 
water or white broth, roast and baste 30 minutes longer ; then add 
1 pint sour cream, and roast until done, about 2Y2 hours in all. 
When ready to serve, transfer the meat to a hot dish, remove the 
fat from gravy ; mix 1 even tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of 
cold water, add it to the gravy, stir and cook on top of the stove 3 



MEATS. 2Y7 

minutes ; add sufficient boiling water or white broth to make a pint 
of sauce, boil a few minutes. Strain, pour 1 gill of the sauce over 
the meat, and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl. Garnish with 
potato timbales, and serve with stewed fruit and lettuce salad. Or 
serve with vegetables, such as boiled cauliflower, asparagus, stewed 
peas, spinach, or carrots ; it may also be served with boiled potatoes, 
Hanovarian pudding, and stewed prunes. 

Shoulder of Teal, Stuffed. — Select a nice shoulder of veal, 
remove the bones, wipe the meat o£E with a clean damp cloth, then 
season it inside as well as outside with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt. 
Stuff the shoulder with sausage or veal forcemeat, sew up, place in 
a roasting pan with 3 thin slices of larding pork under it, spread 3 
ounces butter over. Place the pan in a hot oven, roast until the 
meat becomes light brown, basting frequently with its own gravy ; 
then add 1 cupful boiling water or white broth (which could be 
made of the bones) ; roast about 2 hours longer, basting frequently 
till done, adding more broth or water should the gravy brown too 
much. Ten minutes before serving, lay the meat on a hot dish, re- 
move the fat from gravy, mix Yg tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill 
of cold water, add it to the sauce, stir and cook 3 minutes on top of 
stove ; add sufficient broth or boiling water to make a creamy sauce, 
boil for a few minutes, then strain ; pour a little of the sauce over 
the meat, and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl. Serve with 
mashed or boiled potatoes with horseradish, creamed corn, or string 
beans. The shoulder may also be stuffed with a plain bread filling 
in place of forcemeat. 

Boast Breast of Teal a TAllemande. — Have a breast of veal 
prepared by the butcher for filling ; season with 1 tablespoonful 
seasoning salt, stuff the breast either with a veal or sausage force- 
meat, and sew it up ; then lay it in a roasting pan, spread 2 ounces 
butter over the top, lay 3 thin slices of larding pork underneath the 
veal, set it in a hot oven and roast till the meat has obtained a nice 
brown, basting it often with its own gravy, then add 1 cupful boil- 



278 MEATS. 

ing water or white broth, continue to roast and baste till the meat 
is done, which will take for a small breast lYg hour, for a large one 
2 hours ; 10 minutes before the veal is taken from the oven, add Ya 
cupful sour cream ; a few minutes before serving, lay the meat on a 
warm dish, remove the fat from gravy, mix 1 tablespoouful corn- 
starch with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the gravy, stir and cook a 
few minutes ; add sufficient boiling water or broth to make a pint 
of sauce, cook 3 minutes ; then strain, pour 2 spoonfuls sauce over 
the meat, and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl. 

Breast of Teal. — Remove all the bones from a breast of veal, 
wipe the meat off with a damp towel, season with 1 tablespoouful 
seasoning salt. Lay the breast on a table, cover the inner part with 
veal forcemeat 1 inch in thickness ; cut Y2 pound of boiled tongue 
into finger-thick strips, lay them Y2 inch apart over the forcemeat, 
and, if handy, sprinkle over Y2 cupful fine-cut mushrooms ; then 
roll up the breast of veal carefully, and secure its shape by tying it 
with strings ; fasten with skewers over the ends large thin slices 
of larding pork to prevent the forcemeat from escaping. Put the 
bones and trimmings in an oval-shaped roasting pan with cover, 
add 2 fine-sliced onions, 1 sliced carrot, a bouquet, 12 whole peppers, 
4 ounces salt pork, put the veal on top of this, adding sufficient cold 
water or white stock to three fourths the height of the meat ; cover 
with buttered paper, put on the cover, set the pan over the fire, and 
cook slowly about 2 hours, till done. "When ready to serve, take it out, 
remove strings and pork, lay the breast in a roasting pan, and keep 
it warm with a little of the broth ; strain the broth, remove the fat, 
reduce the broth by boiling to IY3 pint. Pour the reduced broth 
over the breast of veal, set in a hot oven, baste freely, and roast till 
it has obtained a nice glaze ; then remove the breast to a hot dish. 
Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoouful flour, stir and 
cook 2 minutes ; add the gravy from the veal, and sufficient boiling 
water to make 1 pint of sauce, cook 3 minutes ; then strain. Pour 
a little sauce over the meat and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl ; 



MEATS. 279 

garnish with a border of creamed wax beans around the meat, then a 
border of carrot balls, and next to the carrots a border of potato balls. 

Teal Roulade. — Eemove the bones, kidney, and fat from a 
loin of veal weighing about 9 or 10 pounds ; season with 1 table- 
spoonful seasoning salt ; then prepare a forcemeat. Mix Yg pound 
fine-chopped veal with 4 ounces fine-chopped veal fat ; season with 
1 teaspoonful seasoning salt and Yg teaspoonful grated nutmeg. 
Boil Ys cupful water with 1 ounce butter, add Ya cupful flour, stir 
until formed into a paste, then remove ; when cold add it to the 
meat, also the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 whole egg, and 1 tablespoonful fine 
grated bread crumbs. Lay the loin on a table with the skin side 
downward, spread the forcemeat over the loin, then roll up, and tie 
it with several rows of strings ; tie twice more toward the center, 
equally dividing the distance. Place the bones and trimmings in 
a large kettle, add 3 ounces lean raw ham and 3 ounces fat pork, 
cover with cold water, place it over the fire ; as soon as it 
begins to boil, add a bouquet, 3 onions, 1 carrot, and Ys even 
tablespoonful salt ; put in the roulade, cover and cook slowly 
3 hours. Take out the meat, remove the strings, trim the meat 
nicely, lay the roulade in a baking pan, add Y2 pint of the broth, 
set the pan in a hot oven, baste frequently, and roast 30 minutes. 
Strain the remaining broth, remove every particle of fat, and reduce 
the broth by boiling without a cover to 1 pint. Melt 1 ounce butter 
in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 3 minutes ; add the 
reduced broth, cook 5 minutes ; then add Ys ounce butter, Ys tea- 
spoonful beef extract, and the fine-chopped boiled kidney. Ten 
minutes before serving brush the roulade over with beaten egg^ 
and cover with 1 cupful fresh grated bread crumbs and 4 ounces 
grated cheese, return the roulade to the hot oven, let it obtain a 
fine golden color, then dress the meat on a warm dish; garnish with 
potatoes tortonia, and serve with stewed green peas or cauli- 
flower. Serve the gravy in a gravy bowl with it. A loin of veal 
prepared in this way is excellent cut up cold ; it is served with aspic 
jelly and Tartar sauce. 



280 MEATS. 

Blanquette of Teal a PAllemande.— Procure 2V2 pounds 
of veal from the leg, cut it into 3-inch-sized pieces, place it in a 
saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water, and after 3 minutes' 
boiling drain the meat in a colander and rinse with cold water. 
Return it to saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 13 small white 
onions or 4 large ones, 3 even tablespoonfuls salt, 1 even tablespoon- 
f ul white pepper, and a bouquet ; cover and boil slowly 1 hour. 
Shortly before serving melt 3 ounces butter in a saucepan, add Ya 
cupful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes without browning ; then add 
enough of the veal broth to make a thick sauce, cook 3 minutes. 
Mix the yolks of 3 eggs with the juice of 1 lemon, add first a little 
of the sauce to the yolks, and then mix the whole together. Strain 
through a sieve, add Y2 cupful cream or 1 tablespoonful unsweetened 
condensed milk. Let the sauce get boiling hot, but do not allow to 
boil. Lay the meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and set 6 
rice timbales around the edge of the dish. 

Teal Fricassee. — Procure 3 pounds of veal from the breast, 
cut it into 3-inch pieces, place in a saucepan, cover with boiling 
water, add 3 fine-cut onions, 1 even tablespoonful salt, 74 teaspoon- 
ful white pepper, and 4 ounces salt pork cut into thin slices, cover 
and cook V-j^ hour ; then mix 1 ounce butter with 1 tablespoon- 
ful flour, add it to the stew. Sift 6 ounces flour with 1 heaping 
teaspoonful baking powder into a bowl, add V2 teaspoonful salt, 
Vs ounce drippings or beef fat, rub the fat and flour together, add 4 
tablespoonfuls water, the yolk of 1 egg, and 1 whole egg ; mix all 
together (do not stir any more than necessary). Cut with a table- 
spoon small portions from this and drop it into the boiling stew ; 
cover and cook 6 minutes ; then draw to side of stove and sprinkle 
over 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley. Serve with boiled pota- 
toes and creamed beans. 

Teal Stew a PAmericaine.— Take a neck and part of a 
breast of veal (about 3Y2 pounds) wipe the meat off with a damp 
towel, and if it should be necessary to wash it do it quickly in cold 



MEATS. 281 

water. Place the meat in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boil- 
ing water, add 6 small or 3 large white onions, 1 even tablespoonful 
salt, Ya teaspoonful white pepper, 4 ounces salt pork, cut into thin 
slices, cover and cook slowly IY2 hour. Peel 8 medium-sized pota- 
toes, cut them into quarters and add to the stew. Mix 1 ounce 
butter with 1 tablespoonful flour, add it to the stew, cook until 
potatoes are done ; add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley, and 
serve. 

Teal Stew a PHanovrienne. — Procure a shank of veal having 
2Y3 pounds of meat, cut the meat into inch-sized pieces, and crack 
the bones into small pieces ; place it in a saucepan, cover with cold 
water, add 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 onion, a small carrot, Ys white 
turnip, and a bouquet. Place the saucepan over the fire and boil 1 
hour ; then strain the broth ; season the meat with 1 even table- 
spoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, mix the seasoning and 
meat well together. Cut 2 ounces larding pork into small pieces, 
put it in a saucepan over the fire, fry light brown, add 1 ounce 
butter, Ys cupful fine-cut onions, cook 3 minutes ; then add the 
meat, cover and cook 15 minutes, stirring often ; add 1 tablespoon- 
ful flour, mix it with the meat, then add IY2 pint of the veal broth, 
cover and cook slowly 30 minutes. Serve on a warmed dish with 
boiled rice or nudles. 

Ragotit of Calf s Tongue. — Place 2 well-cleaned calf tongues 
in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water, cook 3 min- 
utes ; drain the tongues in a colander, rinse off with cold water, 
return to a saucepan, and cover with boiling water ; add 2 onions, a 
bouquet, Yg tablespoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful pepper, cover and cook 
till tender. "When done talu out the tongues, remove the skin, cut 
into slices, put in a saucepan with a little broth, and set in a warm 
place to keep warm. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 2 fine- 
cut onions, fry light brown ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir 
and cook 2 minutes ; add 3 cupf uls tongue broth, 1 teaspoonful beef 
extract, and 3 tablespoonf uls sherry wine, cook 3 minutes ; then strain 



282 MEATS. 

into a clean saucepan, add 13 small mushrooms, cook 10 minutes ; 
add lastly the tongue slices and 12 veal forcemeat balls (if not hrown 
enough add a little sugar color). Serve on a hot dish, garnish with 
fleurons of puff paste, or with a border of rice, spaghetti, or nudles, 
or in a vol-au-vent. Kagout of fresh pig's tongue is prepared in 
the same way. 

Teal Rolls. — Cut lYg pound of veal from the leg into thin 
slices 5 inches long and 4 inches wide, season with 1 even table- 
spoonful seasoning salt ; prepare a veal forcemeat ; cover the slices 
of veal with the forcemeat, roll, and tie them with a string. Place a 
roasting pan with 2 ounces fine-cut larding pork over the fire ; fry 
until light brown, add 1 ounce butter, put in the rolls, and let cook 
10. minutes, turning frequently ; then add Y2 cupful boiling water 
or broth, 1 small sliced onion, and a few slices of carrots ; set the 
pan in a medium-hot oven, cover with buttered paper, and roast 30 
minutes, basting frequently (if the gravy should get too brown add 
a little water). When done take the rolls from the oven, remove the 
strings, arrange on a warm dish ; remove the :^at from the gravy, 
mix Y2 tablespoonf ul cornstarch with Y2 gill of cold water, add it to 
the gravy, and stir for a few minutes ; add sufficient boiling water 
to make a creamy sauce, strain ; add a little beef extract ; pour some 
of the sauce over the rolls, and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl ; 
garnish with fried tomatoes. Any of the following vegetables may 
be served with them : Succotash, stewed peas, string beans, Lima 
beans, creamed cabbage, cauliflower, chestnut puree, lentils, aspara- 
gus, or carrots. 

Calf s-feet Frite with Allemande Sauce.— Place 2 calf's feet 
into boiling water, let them remain a few minutes, then strain and 
rinse in cold water ; return the feet to the saucepan, cover with fresh 
boiling water, place over the fire ; add 1 fine-cut onion, a bouquet, a 
small carrot, 2 whole peppers, 1 tablespoonful salt, and Y2 cupful 
vinegar, cover and cook till the meat separates from the bones. 
Take them out, remove the bones, put the meat under a light press 



MEATS. 283 

till cold, then cut it into pieces, dip in beaten egg, roll in bread 
crumbs, and fry in half butter and half fat to a delicate brown ; 
arrange the pieces on a warm dish, and serve with allemande sauce. 
Another way is to dip them in batter and to fry in boiling fat like 
fritters ; to serve with the same sauce or garnish with cut lemons, 
and serve with potato salad. 

Teal Kidney. — Prepared the same as lamb and sheep's 
kidney. 

Calf's Head, Boiled. — Place a well-cleaned calf's head for 5 
minutes in a kettle of boiling water, then remove and plunge it into 
cold water ; return the head to the kettle, cover with fresh boiling 
water, add 2 large onions, 1 carrot, a bouquet, a handful of salt, 1 
tablespoonful whole pepper, and boil until done ; then remove, lay 
the head on a warm dish, and serve with bechamel sauce. 

Calf's Head— How to bone and boil.— Select a large white 
calf's head ; bone it by cutting the flesh, starting from the center of 
the calf's head right down to the nostrils ; then with a small sharp 
knife cut the meat on both sides from the bone ; split the head 
open, remove the brain, and place it in cold water to be used for 
other purposes. Put the meat in a kettle of boiling water to remain 
a few minutes, then remove and instantly plunge into cold water ; 
after 10 minutes take it out, cut it into pieces 2 inches long and lYg 
inch wide, trim off the corners. In the meantime place a sauce- 
pan with 3 ounces fine-cut larding pork and 3 ounces fine-cut suet 
over the fire, add 2 fine-cut onions, 1 cut carrot, cook 5 minutes 
without browning, then add 2 tablespoonfuls flour, stir and cook 2 
minutes ; add a bouquet, 12 whole peppers, and 3 quarts boiling 
water with the juice of 1 lemon, cover and cook 35 minutes ; then 
strain into a clean saucepan and return to the fire. As soon as the 
broth boils put in the head and ears, add 2 even tablespoonfuls salt, 
cover and cook slowly from V/o to 2 hours. When ready to serve 
place the meat on a warm dish, garnish with parsley, and serve with 
any sauce desired ; or it may be used as a garnish for ragouts. 
19 



284: MEATS. 

Mock-Turtle Ragoftt. — Split a well-cleaned calf's head, re- 
move the brain, place the head in a large kettle, cover with boiling 
water, add 1 tablespoonful salt, y* tablespoonful pepper, 3 onions, 
and a bouquet ; cover and boil till the meat is tender. Remove the 
calf's head, cut off all the meat and cut it into pieces, remove the 
white skin from the tongue, and cut the tongue into slices. Melt 2 
ounces of butter in a saucepan, add 3 fine-chopped onions, and cook 
till light brown ; add 2 tablespoonf uls flour, stir and cook two 
minutes ; add 4 cupfuls veal broth, Yg cupful sherry wine, 1 tea- 
spoonful beef extract, Y4 can of mushrooms, season wilh salt and 
pepper, cook 15 minutes ; add the tongue and 1 pint of meat from 
the head ; cook a few minutes. Serve on a hot dish with a border 
of nudles or rice. Small balls made from the brain and boiled in 
salted water may be added to the ragout. 

Veal Stew a I'ltalienne. — Procure 2Y2 pounds of veal from 
the leg, cut it into inch-sized pieces ; place a saucej)an with 4 table- 
spoonfuls of olive oil over the fire, add 1 crushed clove of gar- 
lic, 2 fine-cut onions, cover and cook 3 minutes; add Y2 handful of 
dried mushrooms previously soaked in cold water; season the meat 
with 1 tablespoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful pepper, mixing the season- 
ing and the meat well together. Add the meat to the saucepan, 
add 3 peeled tomatoes cut into small pieces, cover and cook 15 min- 
utes, stirring frequently ; then dust over 1 tablespoonful flour, mix 
all well together ; add IY2 pint of white stock or veal broth, cover 
and cook 30 minutes, then serve with boiled macaroni. 

Veal Stew a I'Espagnole. — Cut 2Y2 pounds of veal from the 
neck and breast into small pieces, season with 1 tablespoonful season- 
ing salt. Place a saucepan with 1 gill of oil over the fire, add Y2 
cupful fine-cut onions, 1 fine-cut green pepper without the seeds, 1 
bruised clove of garlic, cover and cook 5 minutes ; then add the 
meat, cover and cook 15 minutes, stirring frequently ; add Y2 cupful 
fine-cut mushrooms, Y2 pi^it of cooked tomatoes, and V/s pint white 
broth, cover the saucepan, cook 40 minutes. Melt 1 ounce butter 



MEATS. 285 

in a small saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 3 minutes ; add 
Ys pint of the broth from the stew, stir and cook to a thick smooth 
sauce ; add it to the stew, boil 5 minutes, and serve with boiled rice. 

Calf's Liver, Braised. — Wash and wipe a nice calf's liver, cut 
7g pound larding pork into finger-thick strips, mix 1 even teaspoon- 
ful salt with 1 teaspoonful pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped 
onion, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley ; roll the pork in this sea- 
soning. Then make with a knife incisions in the liver, put in each 
a strip of pork. Put the remaining pork in a saucepan, add a 
bouquet, 1 sliced onion, 1 small carrot, and 12 whole peppers ; 
place the liver on top of this, add Yg pint of sherry wine and 1 
quart of water with 2 teaspoonfuls beef extract, cover with but- 
tered paper, and cook slowly 2 hours, basting it occasionally. Ee- 
move the liver, lay it in a round pan ; strain the broth, i-emove fat, 
and reduce it by boiling to 1 pint ; pour it over the liver, set in a hot 
oven, basting frequently with its own gravy till it has obtained a nice 
glaze, then remove to a warm dish. Melt 1 ounce butter in a sauce- 
pan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add the 
gravy from the pan, rinse the pan with a little boiling water, adding 
this also to the sauce, stir and cook 3 minutes (if too thick add more 
water or broth), then strain. Pour a little of the sauce over the 
liver and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl. Garnish with glazed 
carrot balls, small glazed white onions, and boiled potato balls. 

Potted Liver. — Lard a nice calf's liver with larding pork, 
season with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt. Place 2 ounces 
fine-cut larding pork in a saucepan over the fire, fry light brown ; 
add 2 ounces butter and the liver, roast until the liver has ob- 
tained a light brown, turning it frequently; then add 1 pint of 
broth or boiling water, 2 onions, 1 small carrot, and a bouquet, cover 
and cook Y2 ^^our ; lastly add Y2 piiit sour cream, continue to cook 
till done, turning the liver several times. If the gravy should boil 
away, add more water or cream. Shortly before serving lay the 
liver on a warm dish ; remove the fat from gravy, mix 1 table- 



286 MEATS. 

spoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the gravy, 
cook 3 minutes; add sufficient boiling water or broth to make a 
creamy sauce ; boil a few minutes, then strain ; pour 1 gill of sauce 
over the liver and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl. Serve 
with potato dumplings and stewed fruit ; or any kind of vegetables 
may be sent to the table with it. 

Calf's Liver a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Procure a nice calf's 
liver, cut it into slices, season with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning 
salt, brush the slices over with melted butter, lay them on a hot 
broiler, and broil over a moderate fire 4 minutes on each side; 
spread 2 ounces maitre d'hotel butter over and serve with French 
fried potatoes. 

Calf's Liver, Broiled. — Cut a nice calf's liver into thin slice.'s, 
brush over with melted butter, lay on a hot broiler, broil 4 minutes 
on each side. Broil also 6 thin slices of bacon, lay the bacon on a 
warm dish ; spread Y4 teaspoonful seasoning butter over each slice 
of liver, and serve with Saratoga chips. 

Calf's Liver, Fried. — Season 6 thin slices of calf's liver with 
1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt, roll in flour; melt Yg table- 
spoonful butter in a frying pan, add 1 tablespoonful lard or fat ; 
when hot put in the liver, fry 4 minutes on each side, turning 
often while frying ; arrange on a warm dish and serve with buttered 
toast. If a gravy is wanted, add to the fat in pan Yg tablespoonful 
flour, stir 2 minutes, add 1 cupful boiling water, Y2 teaspoonful beef 
extract and a little salt and pepper ; cook 3 minutes ; strain into a 
sauce bowl, or pour it over the liver. 

Fried Liver and Bacon. — Put 6 slices of bacon in a pan, cover 
with boiling water, let remain 3 minutes, then remove ; lay in a fry- 
ing pan, and fry over the fire 3 minutes on each side. Lay the 
bacon on a warm dish ; season 6 slices of calf's liver with 1 even 
tablespoonful seasoning salt, roll the liver in flour, put the slices in 
the hot bacon fat, and fry light brown on both sides. Arrange the 



MEATS. 287 

liver alternately with tlie bacon on a warm dish, and serve with 
baked or fried potatoes. 

Calf's Liver, Stewed. — Cut lYg pound calf's liver into small 
pieces, season them with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt ; mix 
the liver pieces well with the seasoning. Place a saucepan with 2 
ounces butter and 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion over the fire, 
add 1 bruised clove of garlic, cover and cook 3 minutes ; add 2 table- 
spoonfuls fine-chopped mushrooms, cook 3 minutes ; then add the 
liver, stir well for 2 minutes, cover and cook 6 minutes ; sprinkle 
over Y2 tablespoonful flour, add 1 gill of red wine, 1 gill of boiling 
water with Y2 teaspoonful beef extract ; mix all well together, and 
cook 5 minutes longer. Serve on a warm dish, garnish with po- 
tato croquettes. (In place of wine the juice of 1 lemon may be 
taken.) 

Pate Froid de Veau— Kalte Kalbspastete.— Prepare a 

forcemeat of 1 pound chopped veal, 1 pound fine-chopped fresh 
pork, 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper, and the yolks of 2 
eggs ; mix all well together. Cut 1 pound of veal from the leg into 
inch-sized pieces, and lard with fine strips of larding pork, boiled 
ham, and trufSes. Cut Vg pound boiled ham and Yg pound fresh 
pork into small pieces. Put the ham, pork, and veal into a bowl, 
add 6 truffles, season with 1 even teaspoonful herb salt, and pour 
over Yg cup sherry wine, let it stand 2 hours. Melt 2 ounces butter 
in a saucepan, add 1 fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes ; add the 
pieces of veal, ham, and pork, and 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped 
parsley, cook and stir 10 minutes ; remove from fire, and set aside 
to cool. Line the sides and bottom of a deep form with fine paste, 
lay thin slices of larding pork on the bottom and sides, put in 1 
layer of- forcemeat, then a layer of the meat, and over that again 
forcemeat. Lay a few thin slices of pork over the forcemeat, put 
on a cover of the same paste ; cut an opening in the center, and 
decorate the edge with leaves cut from the same paste ; then place 
the pdte in the oven to bake IY2 hour. As soon as taken from 



288 MEATS. 

the oven pour a few spoonfuls aspic, to whicli a little Madeira wine 
has been added, in the opening of the pate, and let it stand till next 
day. In serving remove the cover and cut the pate into slices, and 
serve with chopped aspic. 

Cold Teal warmed over. — Put the gravy from cold roasted 
veal in a deep pan, add a little meat broth or boiling water, and 
a piece of butter ; place the pan over the fire, as soon as the 
gravy boils cut the veal into slices, lay them in the gravy, cover the 
pan, and set it on the side of stove where it will keep warm, but 
not to boil. Let it remain about 20 minutes, then serve on a warm 
dish with fresh boiled potatoes and stewed corn, beet salad, or 
grated horseradish mixed with vinegar ; a little salt and sugar may 
be served with it. 

Cold Veal with Cream Sauce.— Place a saucepan with 1 
ounce butter over the fire, add 1 fine-chopped onion, cook 5 min- 
utes without browning ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook 2 minutes ; 
then add 1 pint of meat broth (which can be made, if not at hand, 
from the bones and gravy from the roasted veal) ; season with 1 
even teaspoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonf ul pepper, and a small bou- 
quet, cook 6 minutes. Strain into a clean saucepan, add 1 quart of 
fine-cut cold roasted veal, cook slowly 5 minutes ; then add 1 table- 
spoonful lemon juice, and lastly Y2 cupful cream or 1 tablespoonful 
unsweetened condensed milk. Lay 6 slices of buttered toast on a 
hot dish, pour the veal over it, and serve. 

Veal Hash. — Chop remnants of cooked veal very fine, add to 
1 pint of chopped veal 1 pint fine-chopped boiled potatoes. Place 
a saucepan with 1 ounce butter and 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped 
onions over the fire, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, 
stir and cook 3 minutes ; then add 1 cupful broth, 1 even teaspoon- 
ful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, add the meat and potatoes, stir 
and cook 5 minutes. Serve on a hot dish, lay 6 poached eggs in a 
circle around it ; sprinkle 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley over 
the hash, and serve. 



MEATS. 289 

Teal Hash with Oysters. — Cut the remnants of cold roasted 
veal into small pieces, set a saucepan with 1 ounce butter oyer the 
fire, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add Yg pint 
of broth, Y2 pint of oyster liquor, season with 1 even teaspoonful 
salt, Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, stir and cook 3 minutes ; then add 
lYs pint of fine-cut meat, cook 5 minutes. At the same time place 
i2 oysters without any liquor in a saucepan over the fire, add 1 table- 
spoonful lemon juice, 1 teaspoonful butter, a little white pepper, and 
a sprinkle of salt, let cook 2 minutes ; then add them to the veal ; 
add lastly Y2 cupful cream or 1 tablespoonful unsweetened con- 
densed milk. When ready to serve pour the hash on to a hot dish, 
and lay 6 small slices of bread fried in butter in a circle around the 
dish. 

Veal a la Bechamel. — Set a saucepan with 1 ounce butter and 
1 tablespoonful flour over the fire, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 
pint hot milk, a small bouquet, Y2 cupful mushroom liquor, 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful grated nutmeg, cook 6 minutes ; 
then strain the sauce into a clean saucepan, add 1 quart fine-minced 
cold cooked veal, stir and cook slowly 10 minutes. Serve on a hot 
dish with fine-chopped parsley sprinkled over it, and with mashed 
potatoes or potato croquettes. 

Teal Croquettes, No. 1. — Put 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped 
onion in a saucepan over the fire, add 1 ounce butter, a small piece 
of bruised garlic the size of a pea, cook 5 minutes without brown- 
ing ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; 
add 1 cupful broth, 6 fine-chopped canned mushrooms, 1 even tea- 
spoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, stir and cook 5 minutes ; 
add 1 pint fine-chopped cooked veal and 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped 
parsley, stir and cook 5 minutes longer ; then add the yolks of 3 
eggs, turn the preparation into a shallow pan, and set it aside to cool. 
When cold form the mixture into cork-shaped croquettes, dip in 
beaten egg and roll in grated bread crumbs, fry light brown in hot 
fat or lard, and butter to a fine golden color ; lay the croquettes for 



290 MEATS. 

a few minutes on blotting paper, and serve with either of the fol- 
lowing sauces : Tomato, allemande, latana, bechamel, or cream 
sauce. 

Teal Croquettes, No 2. — Place a saucepan with 1 fine-chopped 
onion and 1 ounce butter over the fire, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 heap- 
ing tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; then add 1 cupfu) 
canned tomatoes, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Yg 6ven teaspoonful pep- 
per, stir and cook 5 minutes ; add 1 pint fine-chopped cooked veal, 
stir and cook 5 minutes longer ; add the yolks of 3 eggs, and finish 
as in foregoing recipe. 

Teal Oysters. — Cut V-j^ pound of veal cutlet into pieces the 
size of large oysters, season them with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning 
salt, dust with flour, then dip into beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, 
and fry in pork or lard and butter, light brown on both sides. 
Dress on a hot dish, garnish with lemon quarters, and serve with 
Qgg salad. (For egg salad see my book on Desserts and Salads, 
recipe 912.) 

Teal Cutlets en PaplUotes. — Procure 6 veal cutlets from 
the loin, trim neatly, cut the bone rather short ; season with 1 
tablespoonful seasoning salt. Place a large frying pan over the fire 
with 2 ounces butter ; when melted put in the cutlets, cook 3 min- 
utes on each side, then remove. Put 3 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped 
onion in the pan, cook 3 minutes, then add 7* cupful fine-chopped 
mushrooms, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, 2 fine- 
cut truffles, cook 3 minutes longer; add Yg tablespoonful fine- 
chopped parsley. Melt Ys ounce butter in a small saucepan, add Ya 
teaspoonful flour, stir 2 minutes; add Y2 cupful boiling broth or 
water with a little beef extract, cook 3 minutes, add it to the fines 
herbes in pan, stir for a few minutes, remove and set aside. Fold 
6 white sheets of paper double, cut them half-heart shape, brush the 
paper over with oil or butter; lay a thin slice of cooked ham on 
one side of each paper, on top the ham lay a little of the fines 
herbes, then the cutlets and another layer of the fines herbes, cover 



MEATS. 291 

with a thin slice of cooked ham, close the paper, and fold both 
edges together. When all are prepared in this way lay the papil- 
lotes on a buttered dish, set in a hot oven and bake about 8 min- 
utes. Arrange them nicely on a warm dish and serve. 

Teal Cutlets in Paper. — Season 6 nicely trimmed veal cut- 
lets with seasoning salt, cut the bone short. Butter 6 sheets of 
white paper cut heart-shape, brush the cutlets over with melted 
butter, lay one on each sheet of paper, fold the paper over and in- 
close the cutlets ; fold the 2 edges together, lay them on a hot 
broiler, and broil over a clear fire 5 minutes on each side. Arrange 
them on a warm dish, and serve with baked potatoes and fried to- 
matoes. 

Veal Cutlets, Broiled.— Procure 6 veal cutlets from the loin, 
remove all fat, trim neatly, brush over with melted butter ; lay the 
cutlets on a hot broiler and broil over a moderate fire 5 minutes on 
each side, turning frequently. Mix 1 ounce butter with Yg even 
tablespoonful seasoning salt, lay the cutlets on a warm dish, spread 
over the seasoning butter, garnish with cut lemon and parsley ; 
serve with boiled potatoes and stewed green peas or asparagus. 

Teal Cutlets Mac6doine. — Eemove the bone and fat from 6 
veal cutlets from the loin, trim in the shape of a pear ; season with 
1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt, dust lightly with flour, dip into 
beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, pat with a knife nice and smooth. 
Melt 1 ounce butter and Yg ounce lard or fat in a pan ; put in the 
cutlets, fry over medium-hot fire to a fine golden color, then remove. 
Place in the center of a warm dish 1 pint of each of boiled carrots 
julienne, cut small white onions a la creme, small cooked potato 
balls, and cauliflower a I'allemande ; lay the cutlets in a circle 
around the vegetables and serve. 

Teal Cutlets, Fried.— Select 2 pounds veal from the leg, cut 
it into 6 even slices ; fry 4 ounces fine-cut larding pork light brown, 
put in the cutlets, fry light brown on both sides. Arrange them on 
a warm dish, mix 1 ounce butter with Ys even tablespoonful season- 



292 MEATS. 

ing salt, spread it over the cutlets, and serve with fried eggplant 
and boiled potatoes, or any other kind of vegetables in season. 

Larded Veal Cutlets with Spinacli.— Trim 6 veal cutlets 
from the loin, having the bone cut rather short, lard on one side 
with larding pork, season with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt. 
Put 4 thin slices of larding pork in a baking pan, 2 onions, and Yg 
carrot cut into slices ; lay the cutlets on top of this, add sufficient 
stock or broth to nearly cover them, place the pan over the fire, 
cook 15 minutes ; then cover the cutlets with buttered paper, set 
the pan in oven, bake 20 minutes ; remove the paper, baste the cut- 
lets frequently, and bake till done. At the same time prepare Y2 
peck of spinach a la creme, arrange the cutlets on an oval-shaped 
warm dish, lay the cutlets in a straight row on the dish, so that the 
end bone is underneath ; dress the spinach on each side of it. Re- 
move the fat from the gravy, strain, and serve with the cutlets ; 
garnish the spiuach with hard-boiled eggs. 

Wiener Schnitzel. — Procure 2 pounds veal from the leg, cut 
it into slices Y3 inch thick and 3 inches square, pare the corners 
round, beat lightly to flatten them, then season with 1 tablespoon- 
ful seasoning salt and dust with flour ; dip each cutlet into beaten 
egg^ cover with fine bread crumbs, and pat smooth with a knife. 
Fifteen minutes before serving place a pan with 1 ounce butter and 
Ys ounce lard over the fire ; as soon as hot put in the cutlets, fry , 
light brown and well done. Arrange them on a warm dish, lay in 
the center of each schnitzel Y2 teaspoonful capers. Soak 6 ancho- 
vies in cold water, remove the skin and bones, divide them in 
halves, roll them up ; place 2 of these rolls on each schnitzel with 
Y4 lemon cut into two, garnish with water cress or parsley, and 
serve. Wiener schnitzel may be served plain or with any kind of 
vegetables in season. 

Calf s Brain, Fried. — Cut the blanched calf's brain into 
slices, break 1 egg into a small bowl, dip each slice of brain sepa- 
rately in the beaten egg, and cover with bread crumbs ; when all are 



MEATS. 293 

prepared, place a pan with Yg ounce butter, and Yg ounce lard over 
the fire ; as soon as melted put in as many of the brain pieces as 
will conveniently lie in the pan. When done place on a warm dish, 
garnish with cut lemon, and serve with French fried potatoes and 
vinaigrette sauce, or serve without sauce. 

Heidelberger Steak. — Take lYs pound of veal from the leg 
and 4 ounces veal fat, chop both exceedingly fine ; season with 1 
even tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls 
fine-chopped onion, 1 egg-, mix the ingredients well together, 
divide into 6 parts, form them into oblong shapes, flatten a little, 
cover with fresh grated bread crumbs. Melt 1 ounce butter in a 
frying pan, when hot put in the steak, fry light brown on both 
sides, about 4 minutes on each side. When done lay the steak on 
a warm dish, add Ys tablespoonful flour to the gravy, stir and cook 
2 minutes ; add Y4 cupful boiling water, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, 
Y2 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cook 5 minutes; 
then strain over the meat, and serve. 

Coquilles of Brain with Tomatoes. — Cut 2 sets of blanched 
calf's brain into slices. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 2 
tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, cook 6 minutes without brown- 
ing; add 1 teaspoonful flour, cook 2 minutes; then add 3 peeled 
and finely cut tomatoes, 1 even teaspoonful seasoning salt, Ys tea- 
spoonful sugar, cook slowly 10 minutes; then strain. Put the 
brain pieces in a saucepan with lYs ounce butter, cover and cook 10 
minutes, stirring occasionally; then butter 6 table shells and set 
them in a warm place, fill half full with the brain, pour over a little 
of the tomatoes, sprinkle 1 tablespoonful grated cheese over each 
one, besprinkle with a little butter, set in a hot oven, and bake light 
brown ; then serve on a dish with folded napkin. 

Calf's Tongue a la Jardiniere. — Lay 2 calves' tongues for 2 
minutes in boiling water, then remove and put them in cold water. 
After 5 minutes take the tongues out, place in a saucepan, cover 
with boiling water ; add 2 onions, 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, a 



294 MEATS. 

bouquet, 1 small carrot, and 6 whole peppers, cover and cook till 
tender. At the same time melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 
heaping tablespoonful flour, cook 2 minutes ; add IY4 cupful of the 
strained tongue broth (if handy, add 1 gill of mushroom liquor), 
cook 5 minutes. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with ^2 cupful cream, 
add it to the sauce, remove from fire ; add 1 tablespoonful lemon 
juice, Y4 teaspoonf ul grated nutmeg. When ready to serve, take the 
tongues out, remove the skin, trim neatly, and arrange them on a 
hot dish. Have a pint of cooked carrot balls, the same of potato 
balls and small white onions, lay the vegetables in a circle around 
the tongues, first a border of the onions, then the carrots, and last 
the potatoes, pour Yg of the sauce over the tongue, and serve the re- 
mainder in a sauce bowl ; sprinkle 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped 
parsley over the whole and serve. 

Calf's Tongue a TEspagnole. — Boil 2 calves' tongues as in 
foregoing recipe. Melt 2 ounces butter (or 1 gill of olive oil) in a 
saucepan, add Ys cupful fine-chopped onion, 1 bruised clove of 
garlic, cook 3 minutes ; then add 1 fine-chopped green pepper with- 
out the seeds, cover and cook 6 minutes ; add Ys piiit stewed and 
strained tomatoes, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ys e^^'cn teaspoonful 
white pepper, Ys cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, cook 10 min- 
utes. When the tongues are done take them out, remove the 
skin, trim neatly and lay them on a warm dish, pour the sauce 
over, and garnish with rice timbales ; chop the yolk of 1 hard- 
boiled egg fine, lay a little of it on top of each timbale. 

Fricandeau a la Jardiniere. — Fricandeau is also called the 
noix or cushion, and it is that part of a leg of veal to which the 
udder adheres. In order to separate it from the round or fillet the 
leg should be placed on the table with the knuckle from you ; then 
with the left hand take hold of the upper part of the fillet of veal, 
and with the right insert the point of a knife into the separations 
which divide the fricandeau or noix from the under part of the 
fillet. Cut the noix away, following the separation right round to 



MEATS. 295 

the knuckle. Eemove the sinews and lard the surface with a me- 
dium-sized larding needle ; rub over 1 tablespoonful salt, and place 
the fricandeau in a roasting pan ; add 1 tablespoonful butter, set 
the pan on top the stove ; when the butter melts baste the meat 
with it, then add 1 cupful white broth or boiling water, place the 
fricandeau in a hot oven, baste frequently, and roast till done. 
Shortly before serving transfer the meat to a hot dish ; mix % 
tablespoonful cornstarch with Yg cup cold water, add it to the 
gravy in the pan, stir ^ for a few minutes over the fire; then add 
sufficient boiling water or broth to make a creamy sauce ; strain 
and pour a few spoonfuls over the meat, and serve the remainder 
in a sauce bowl. Garnish with stewed green peas and carrots. 

Fricandeau h FAlleraande. — Prepare a fricandeau the same 
as in foregoing recipe, lard it closely with fine strips of larding pork, 
season with 1 teaspoonful seasoning salt. Lay the fricandeau in a 
roasting pan, pour over 3 ounces melted butter, set in a medium- 
hot oven, roast 10 minutes, basting frequently with its own gravy ; 
then add 1 gill of boiling water, roast again 10 minutes ; then add 
Yg pint of sour cream, roast and baste 1 hour ; then lay the meat on 
a hot dish, garnish with potato croquettes, and serve with boiled 
asparagus or any kind of young vegetables in season. 

SWEETBEEADS. 

Sweetbreads. — What they are. — Sweetbreads are the thymus 
glands in a calf, found below the calf's throat, and divided in two 
lateral portions, right and left, which are in reality distinct from 
each other, being connected only by areolar tissue. They are called 
throat and heart sweetbreads. The throat part is the larger of the 
two ; the heart is whiter and more delicate. Sweetbreads are easily 
digested and very nutritious, and considered the most delicate part 
of a calf. 

Sweetbreads — How to hlanch and prepare. — Lay the 

sweetbreads for 2 hours in cold water, changing the water several 



296 MEATS. 

times ; place them in a saucepan, cover with fresh cold water, let 
come slowly to a boil ; then draw the saucepan to the side of stove, 
letting remain 10 minutes without boiling ; remove and lay the 
sweetbreads in cold water. When cold take them out of water, 
remove the windpipes, fibers, and fatty parts, and place them be- 
tween 2 plates to press lightly. They are then ready to be prepared 
as explained in following recipes : 

Sweetbreads Saute. — Procure 2 large sweetbreads, prepare 
and blanch as in foregoing recipe ; season with salt, dust lightly 
with flour, dip into beaten egg, and cover with fine-sifted bread 
crumbs. Melt lYg ounce butter in a low saucepan just large enough 
to receive them ; as soon as the butter is melted put in the sweet- 
breads, cover and cook slowly 30 minutes, turning them carefully 
once during that time. When ready to serve lay 2 pieces of buttered 
toast on a warm dish, dress the sweetbreads over them, and garnish 
with water cress. 

Sweetbreads with Green Peas. — Blanch a pair of sweet- 
breads as directed, season with 1 even teaspoonful seasoning salt ; 
melt lYs ounce butter in a low saucepan, put in the sweetbreads, 
cover and cook slowly 30 minutes, turning them occasionally. Place 
1 pint of young green peas in a saucepan, add Yg pint boiling water, 
lYs teaspoonful sugar, cover and boil till done. Mix Ys ounce 
butter with Ys teaspoonful cornstarch, add it to the peas, stir until 
smooth, season with Y2 teaspoonful salt and 1 teaspoonful fine- 
chopped parsley. Dress the sweetbreads on a warm dish, pour the 
peas over them, and serve with small boiled potatoes. Sweetbreads 
prepared in this way may be served on toast or with croutons. 

Sweetbreads cooked with Roast Veal.— Prepare and blanch 
the sweetbreads as directed, season with salt. Eoast a piece of veal 
Ys hour ; before serving place the sweetbreads in the pan with the 
veal, baste frequently, and cook till done. 

Sweetbreads Frite a la Marini^re. — Cut 2 pairs of blanched 
sweetbreads into halves, season them with 1 even tablespoonful salt, 



MEATS. 297 

Ya teaspoonful white pepper, the juice of 1 lemon ; lay them in a 
covered dish with 2 onions cut into slices, a sprig of thyme, and a 
few branches of fresh parsley ; cover and let stand 1 hour. Then 
remove, wipe off with a clean towel, dust lightly with flour, dip 
into the batter (described below), drop into boiling fat, and fry like 
crullers to a delicate brown color. Eemove with a skimmer, lay on 
a sieve, then arrange on a hot dish with a bunch of fried parsley in 
the center ; serve with allemande or bechamel sauce. Batter : Mix 
the yolks of 2 eggs with 1 gill of milk, add 2 heaping tablespoonfuls 
flour, Y4 teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful melted butter (measured 
after it is melted) ; add lastly the 2 whites beaten to a stiff froth, 
then use as directed above. 

Sweetlbreads a la Bearnaise. — Lard the upper part of 2 large 
blanched and prepared sweetbreads with fine strips of larding pork ; 
lay in a small roasting pan with 1 thin slice of larding pork under 
each one ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, add 2 slices of onions, 
the same of carrots, and a small bouquet ; cover with buttered paper, 
place the pan in a medium-hot oven to roast — 15 minutes ; then 
add Ya cupful white broth, baste occasionally, lifting the paper and 
replacing it each time, roast 35 minutes. In the meantime pre- 
pare a sauce Bearnaise, put the sauce on a warm dish, dress the 
sweetbreads over it, and serve. In place of Bearnaise sauce, 
sweetbreads may be served with different sauces, such as sauce 
allemande, cream bechamel, Colbert, duchess, mushroom, truffle, 
princess, etc. They are then named after the sauce with which 
they are served. 

Calf's Brain, Blanched. — Soak 2 sets of calf's brain for 2 
hours in cold water, changing the water several times ; then remove 
the loose skin, place the brains in a saucepan, cover with cold 
water, add Y2 giU of white vinegar, a small bouquet, Y2 tablespoon- 
ful salt, 8 whole peppers, and 1 onion ; boil 10 minutes. Then set 
the saucepan aside, leaving the brains to cool in their liquor; they 
are then ready to use for any dish they may be required. 



298 MEATS. 

Coquilles of Calf s Brain. — Blanch 2 sets of brain as directed 
in foregoing recipe, drain and cut into slices ; place them in a sauce- 
pan with 1 ounce butter, toss for a few minutes over the fire ; add 
Ya cupful fine-cut mushrooms, Yg gill of white wine, Ys giU of mush- 
room liquor, cover and cook 10 minutes. Melt Y2 ounce butter in a 
small saucepan ; add Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; 
add Y2 cupful white broth or boiling water with a little beef extract ; 
season with Y4 teaspoonful salt, the same of white pepper and nut- 
meg, cook a few minutes ; add Y2 giU of sweet cream ; add this 
sauce to the brains. Eemove from fire, fill the preparation into 6 
table shells, sprinkle over some fresh grated bread crumbs, drop a 
little melted butter over each one, and bake light brown in a hot 
oven ; serve on a dish with folded napkin. 

Petites Casses de Cervelles. — Blanch 2 sets of calf's brain ; 
cut into slices, lay the slices in a small pan, pour over Y2 pi^t boil- 
ing water with 1 teaspoonful beef extract ; place in a hot oven, 
cover with buttered paper, and roast 15 minutes, basting fre- 
quently. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfula 
fine-chopped onion, add Y2 cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, cook 6 
minutes ; season with Y2 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley, 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful white pepper, cook a few min- 
utes longer ; add Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir a few minutes ; then 
remove the brains, add their gravy to the fines herbes in saucepan 
named above, and a few spoonfuls bouillon or boiling water with 
beef extract. Prepare a chicken forcemeat from the breast of 1 
chicken as directed (see Chicken), add half the fines herbes to the 
forcemeat. Fill 6 paper boxes with it (three fourths full) ; press 
the forcemeat on to the bottom and sides of the boxes, so that there 
is a space left in the center ; fill the spaces with the brains, divide 
the remaining fines herbes equally, and put a portion on top of each 
box; lay a thin slice of pork on each box, place the boxes on a 
shallow tin pan, set them in a hot oven, and bake 12 to 15 minutes ; 
then take out, remove the pork, and if there is too much fat pour it 



MEATS. 299 

off. Put a little tomato or allemande sauce over each one, and serve 
on a dish with folded napkin. These can be prepared of sweet- 
breads in the same way. 

Scallops of Sweetbreads with Mushrooms.— Cut 2 pairs 
of blanched sweetbreads into oval scallops ; melt 2 ounces of butter 
in a small saucepan, season the scallops with 1 teaspoonful season- 
ing salt ; put them into the butter, add the juice of Yg lemon, y^ 
teaspoonful grated nutmeg, cover and stew 10 minutes ; add 1 tea- 
spoonful fine-chopped parsley, remove from fire, and set aside. 
Prepare Yg pint of thick allemande sauce, mix it with Ys cupful 
fine-ground roasted chicken meat of the breast of chicken. When 
the scallops are nearly cold cover each one with this preparation, 
set for 1 hour in a cool place. Then dip them into beaten egg and 
fine sifted bread crumbs ; fry them in pure boiling lard to a delicate 
brown ; drain on blotting paper or napkin. Arrange in a close 
circle on a warm dish, pour in the center 1 pint of stewed but- 
ton mushrooms, and serve. 

Calves' Brain a I'Alfonso. — Blanch and prepare 2 sets of 
calves' brains as directed in former recipe. Place a saucepan with 2 
ounces larding pork and 2 ounces of raw ham over the fire ; put the 
brains on top of this, add 1 gill of white wine or the juice of Ya 
lemon; cover with veal or chicken broth, lay 2 ounces larding 
pork cut into fine slices over them ; put on the cover, and cook 
slowly 15 minutes. Then drain the brains on a sieve and cut them 
into slices. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add the brains, toss 
them for a few minutes over the fire. Arrange nicely over 6 slices 
of buttered toast; pour over 1 pint of hot tomato sauce a I'alle- 
mande, and serve. Sweetbreads may be prepared in the same way. 

Sweetbreads a la Fonchonette.— Separate 2 large pairs of 
blanched sweet breads into small pieces and put them into a sauce- 
pan ; add 12 small mushrooms cut into quarters, 2 sliced truffles, 1 
even teaspoonful seasoning salt, a pinch of Cayenne pepper, and 1 
gill of Rhine wine ; cover, and cook 10 minutes. Mix the yolks of 
20 



300 MEATS. 

4 eggs with lYg gill of cream, add it to the sweetbreads stir a few 
minutes over the fire without boiling, and serve with finger rolls or 
fleurons. 

LAMB, 

Braised Shoulder of Lamb. — Eemove the bones from a nice 
shoulder of lamb or young mutton, season with 1 tablespoonful 
seasoning salt, roll up, and tie securely with 3 strings into a perfect 
round roll. Take a saucepan large enough to receive the meat, 
cover its bottom with 4 ounces of salt pork, 3 sliced onions, 1 car- 
rot, and the bones from the meat ; lay the meat on top, add suffi- 
cient boiling water to nearly cover, closely cover and boil slowly 
till done, which will take about 2 hours. Remove the meat to a 
roasting pan not much larger than the meat ; strain the broth, re- 
move the fat, then pour lYg pint of the broth into the pan with the 
meat, and place in a hot oven ; roast, and baste frequently till the 
meat is brown all over and the broth has cooked to half glaze. 
Lay the meat on a hot dish, remove the strings, free the gravy from 
all fat, add 1 gill of broth to the gravy, let it boil up, strain, and 
serve with the meat. Serve with boiled potatoes and string beans 
a la cr^me ; or thicken the gravy with Yg tablespoonful cornstarch, 
diluted with Ys giU of cold water, add sufficient broth to make a 
creamy sauce. 

Braised Shoulder of Lamb a I'ltalienne.— Take a nice 
shoulder of lamb, wipe it off with a damp cloth ; place in a sauce- 
pan with 1 pound of parboiled salt pork, 3 onions, 1 carrot, a bou- 
quet, and 1 even teaspoonful pepper ; cover with boiling water and 
set over the fire, cover and boil slowly till done ; then remove, strain 
the broth, free it from fat ; place the meat in a baking pan, add Y2 
pint of broth and set in a hot oven, baste often, and roast 20 
minutes. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful 
flour, stir 2 minutes; add the gravy from the meat, and sufficient 
broth to make 1 pint of sauce, boil 3 minutes ; place the meat on 
a hot dish, pour a few spoonfuls of sauce over the meat, and the 



MEATS. 301 

remainder in a sauce bowl, cut the pork into thin slices, and lay it 
around the dish ; serve with macaroni a I'ltalienne. 

Leg of Lamb a rAUemande. — Procure a nice leg of lamb, 
season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt ; place in a baking pan, 
set it on top the stove, pour over 2 ounces melted butter, baste the 
meat 5 minutes with the butter ; then set the pan in a moderately 
hot oven, roast 15 minutes, and baste with its own gravy ; add 1 
cupful boiling water, continue to roast, basting frequently, until 
done, which will take IY2 hour; if necessary add more water. 
Fifteen minutes before the lamb is done, sprinkle a half cupful fine- 
chopped onion over it, continue to roast, basting frequently, 10 
minutes. When ready to serve lay the meat on a warm dish ; re- 
move all fat from gravy ; mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill 
of cold water, add it to the gravy, cook a few minutes on top the 
stove ; add sufiBcient boiling water to make a creamy sauce, cook 5 
minutes, then strain. Pour 1 gill of sauce over the meat, and 
serve with stewed green peas and carrots, also boiled potatoes. 
Brussels sprouts or Savoy cabbage a la creme may be served in* place 
of peas and carrots. 

Braised Leg of Lamb a la Polonaise. — Remove the fat of a 
nice leg of lamb, wash, and wipe it dry ; place a saucepan with 2 
ounces butter over the fire ; when hot put in the meat, season with 
salt, turn several times around so that the butter touches every part ; 
then add 1 quart of beer, 3 onions, 3 bay leaves, 2 blades of mace, Yg 
dozen whole peppers, 1 carrot, and a little celery, cover tightly and 
let stew till done. When ready to serve lay the meat on a hot dish, 
remove the fat from gravy, mix V2 tablespoonful cornstarch with Y2 
gill of cold water, add it to the gravy, cook a few minutes, then 
strain ; add Yg pint small mushrooms which have been stewed in 
butter, and season with lemon juice. 

Lamb Boiled with Pork. — Put IY2 pound of lean salt pork 
covered with cold water in a kettle over the fire ; when it boils add a 
leg of lamb, and boil the two together until tender. When done re- 



302 MEATS. 

move the kettle from fire, leave the meat in the liquor until nearly 
cold ; then take it out ; serve it cold cut up in slices ; arrange 
alternately a slice of pork and a slice of lamb on a dish, and send 
mustard and pickles to table with it. 

Roast Laml), Plain. — Select a nice leg of lamb ; do not wash 
it, but wipe off with a damp towel ; season with 1 tablespoonful 
seasoning salt, place in a roasting pan and roast 10 minutes ; then 
add 1 cupful boiling water, continue to roast, basting frequently, 
till done, which will take about IY3 hour. When done transfer the 
lamb to a hot dish, remove all the fat from gravy ; mix 1 even 
tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the 
gravy, stir 2 minutes ; add sufficient boiling water to make a creamy 
sauce, boil 3 minutes ; then strain and serve with the meat, pouring 
a few spoonfuls of gravy over. Serve with green peas and boiled 
potatoes. 

Roast Lamb with Mint Sauce.— Prepare the lamb as in fore- 
going recipe, and send, in addition to the meat sauce, a mint sauce 
to table. Eoast lamb may be served with the following vegetables : 
Baked and stewed tomatoes, green corn boiled on the cob, creamed 
corn or succotash, stewed Lima beans, fried eggplant, fried cucum- 
bers, cauliflower, creamed butter beans. Savoy cabbage, and sweet 
potatoes. 

Roast Lamb a I'Asliwarden. — Procure a nice leg of lamb, 
season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt ; make 4 incisions on top 
the meat, insert 74 onion into each incision so as to hide the onion 
from view ; place the meat in a large bowl or stone jar, pour over 3 
cupfuls of thick sour cream, cover and set in a cool place for 24 
hours, turning the meat twice during that time. When ready to 
cook, place the meat in a roasting pan, spread 1 ounce of butter 
over it, set in a hot oven, and roast 15 minutes, basting frequently 
with its own gravy ; then add the cream of the meat, and roast till 
done. When ready to serve, lay the meat on a hot dish, remove all 
fat from the gravy, strain and pour into a gravy bowl. Serve with 



MEATS. 303 

yeast dumplings, boiled potatoes, and stewed apples or spiced 
plums. 

Eoast Laml) a la Rade. — Lard closely a nice leg of lamb with 
fine strips of larding pork, season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning 
salt; place a saucepan large enough to receive the meat over the 
fire, put in 2 ounces fine-cut larding pork, fry light brown ; add 2 
ounces butter, put in the meat, cook and turn frequently until ob- 
tained a nice brown color ; then add 1 cupful broth, stock, or water, 
cover and cook 15 minutes ; add 1 pint sour cream and 1 whole 
onion, continue to cook until done, which will take about 1% hour. 
(If the gravy should boil away too much add more stock or water.) 
Shortly before serving, lay the meat on a hot dish, remove all fat 
from gravy ; mix Yg tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of cold 
water, add to the gravy, stir for a few minutes ; add sufficient stock 
or water to make 1 pint of sauce, boil 3 minutes ; then strain ; pour 
1 gill of sauce over the meat, and serve the remainder in a sauce 
bowl. Serve with green corn boiled on the cob, stewed fresh Lima 
beans or peas, and boiled potatoes. In north Germany it is served 
with German pheasant pudding, stewed fruit, and potatoes. (For 
German Pheasant Pudding, see Roasted Fresh Ham.) 

Roasted Forequarter of Laml).— Procure a nice forequarter 
of lamb, cut off the rack 6 inches wide, have this cut up into 
chops (they may be put aside for breakfast), wipe the remaining 
meat off with a damp cloth, season with salt and pepper ; lay it in 
a roasting pan and roast 25 minutes ; then add 1 cup boiling water, 
continue to roast and baste till done ; 15 minutes before serving 
sprinkle Yg cupful fine-chopped onion over the meat, continue to 
roast and baste 10 minutes ; lay on a warm dish, remove the fat 
from gravy ; mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of cold 
water, add it to the gravy, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add sufficient 
boiling water to make a creamy sauce, boil 5 minutes ; then strain 
through a fine sieve ; add Yg ounce butter, pour 1 gill of sauce over 
the meat, and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl. Serve with 
string beans a la creme, boiled potatoes, and tomato salad. 



304: MEATS. 

Breast of Lamb. — Procure 2 breasts of lamb, season them 
with. 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, and roast as in foregoing 
recipe. 

Breast of Lamb, Braised. — Place 2 breasts of lamb in a sauce- 
pan, cover barely with boiling water ; add 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 
teaspoonf ul pepper, 3 medium-sized onions, 1 carrot, and a bouquet ; 
cover and boil till tender ; take out the breast ; strain the broth, 
remove all fat, and reduce by boiling down to one half. Place the 
meat in a roasting pan, pour over the broth, set the pan in a hot 
oven, roast and baste 20 minutes ; then lay the lamb on a hot dish. 
Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 
for a few minutes ; add the gravy from pan, and if too thick dilute 
it with boiling water ; pour 1 gill of the sauce over the meat, and 
serve the remainder with the meat. 

Shoulder of Lamb, Stuffed.— Remove the bones from a 
shoulder of lamb except the leg bone, which must be left on. 
Spread the shoulder open, season with salt and pepper, fill with 
veal or sausage forcemeat, sew it up, rub 1 even teaspoonful season- 
ing salt over the meat. Put 1 pound of salt pork in a saucepan, 
add 2 onions, 1 carrot, a bouquet, and 12 whole peppers ; lay the 
shoulder on top of this, add sufficient boiling water or broth to 
nearly cover the meat ; put over it buttered paper, then the lid, set 
over a moderate fire, and boil slowly IY2 hour ; then take out the 
meat, lay it in a rdasting pan ; strain the broth, remove all the fat • 
pour the broth over the meat, set in a hot oven, roast 20 minutes, 
basting frequently ; dress the meat on a hot dish, remove the 
threads, cut the pork into thin slices, and garnish the shoulder 
alternately with the sliced pork and boiled cabbage rolls (see Cab- 
bage). Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful of 
flour, stir a few minutes ; add the broth from the meat ; if too thick 
dilute it with boiling water, if too thin reduce it by boiling to 1 pint 
of sauce. Pour a little sauce over the meat and cabbage, and serve 
the remainder in a sauce bowl. 



MEATS. 305 

Boiled Leg of Lamb. — Place a leg of lamb in a large sauce- 
pan, add 2 pounds of lean salt pork, 2 onions, Yg carrot, cover and 
boil till done. When ready to serve lay the meat on a hot dish, also 
the pork, and serve with mushroom sauce ; cauliflower or Lima 
beans, and boiled potatoes may be served with this or any kind of 
vegetables in season. In place of mushroom sauce a caper, tomato, 
allemande, horseradish, onion, or a bechamel sauce may be served 
with it. 

Lamb Stew. — Procure 2y2 pounds lamb from the forequarter, 
cut into 2-inch pieces ; place in a covered saucepan, cover with boil- 
ing water, add 2 even tablespoonfuls salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, 
2 fine-cut onions, and cook 40 minutes ; then add 1 quart peeled 
potatoes ; when nearly done melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 
1 tablespoonful flour, cook a few minutes, add it to the stew, and 
cook till done ; serve on a warm dish. 

Lamb Stew ^ I'Allemande. — Cut 2Y2 pounds lamb off the fore- 
quarter into 2-inch pieces, place the meat in a saucepan, cover with 
boiling water, let it remain 2 minutes ; then drain the meat on a sieve 
and plunge it instantly into cold water ; return the meat to the sauce- 
pan, cover with fresh boiling water, add 2 even tablespoonfuls salt, 

1 even tablespoonful pepper, 12 small white (or 4 medium-sized) 
onions, cover and cook 1 hour. Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, 
add 2 heaping tablespoonfuls flour, stir 3 minutes ; add 1 quart of the 
strained broth, cook 5 minutes ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Yg cup- 
ful cream, add it to the sauce ; remove from the fire ; add the juice of 
Y2 lemon and a little nutmeg, arrange the meat on a hot dish, pour 
the sauce over and garnish with 6 nudle timbales, then serve. In 
place of nudle, spaghetti or rice timbales may be used as a garnish, 
or a border of either of them may be put around the stew. 

Lamb Fricassee with Farina Dumplings. — Dip 2 breasts 
of lamb into boiling water, then instantly into cold water ; cut the 
meat into 2-inch pieces. Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 

2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onions, and cook 5 minutes without 



306 MEATS. 

browning; season the meat with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt; 
add it to the saucepan, cook 10 minutes ; then cover with boiling 
water, put on the lid, and cook till done. Shortly before serving 
melt Yg tablespoonful butter, add Yg tablespoonful flour, stir and 
cook a few minutes ; add it to the fricassee, boil for a few minutes 
longer ; then serve on a warm dish with farina dumplings. Veal 
fricassee may be prepared in the same way. 

Spring-laml) Stew.— Three pounds lamb off the breast, 6 
young white turnips, 2 bunches of young carrots, 1 pint of green 
peas, 1 quart small new potatoes, 3 white onions, IY2 even table- 
spoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful white pepper, 3 quarts boiling 
water. For dumplings : 1 cup flour, 1 of milk, 1 tablespoonful but- 
ter, 2 eggs, nutmeg, and salt. After cutting the meat into 2-inch 
sized pieces put it into a bowl, pour over sufficient boiling water to 
cover, let it lay for 2 minutes, drain it in colander, and rinse off with 
cold water. Place the meat in a saucepan, cover with 3 quarts boil- 
ing water, put it over the fire, add the salt and pepper ; peel and 
cut the turnips into quarters, also the onions, scrape and cut the 
carrots into strips, add all to the stew, cover and boil Y2 hour ; then 
add the well-cleaned potatoes and peas, boil until done. In the 
meantime prepare the dumplings. Boil 1 cnp of milk with 1 table- 
spoonful butter, add 1 cup flour, stir until formed into a smooth 
paste, and loosening itself from bottom of saucepan ; remove from 
fire, mix the paste thoroughly with the 2 yolks, beat the whites to a 
stiff froth, add to the paste ; season with a little salt and very little 
nutmeg. Melt 1 ounce butter in a small saucepan, add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir 3 minutes, and add it to the stew. Cut with a 
small spoon dumplings from the paste, and drop them into the 
stew, cover and boil 5 minutes ; remove to side of stove, where it 
will stop boiling. When ready to serve, add 1 tablespoonful fine- 
chopped parsley. 

Ragotlt of Lamb. — Cut the meat from a shoulder of lamb 
into 1-inch sized pieces, season them with 1 tablespoonful seasoning 



MEATS. 807 

salt ; melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 2 fine-chopped onions, 
cook 3 minutes ; add the lamb, stir a few minutes ; cover, and let it 
cook slowly 20 minutes, then dust over 2 tablespoonfuls flour, stir 
3 minutes ; add 1 quart of meat broth or boiling water, stir again ; 
then draw the saucepan to side of stove, and let it cook slowly till 
done. Serve on a hot dish with cooked vegetables in season. 

Haricot de Mouton. — Cut a shoulder of mutton or lamb 
into 1-inch pieces, about 3 pounds, season with 1 tablespoonful 
seasoning salt, mix seasoning and meat well together. Place a 
saucepan over the fire, with 2 fine-chopped onions, 1 ounce butter, 
1 clove of bruised garlic, stir and cook 3 minutes; then add the 
meat, stir for a few minutes, cover, and let cook slowly 30 minutes. 
In the meantime melt 2 ounces butter in a small saucepan, add 2 
tablespoonfuls flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 quart of broth 
or boiling water, with a little beef extract, add a bouquet and 6 
small onions, cook 5 minutes ; then add it to the meat, cook until 
done. Shortly before serving, remove the bouquet and every par- 
ticle of fat. Dress the haricot on a hot dish, and garnish with 
cooked Lima beans and carrot balls. 

Lamlb a la Milanaise. — Procure 273 pounds lamb from the 
shoulder, cut into 2-inch pieces, wash in cold water, and season 
with 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper ; rub the meat and 
seasoning well together. Place a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful 
butter over the fire, add Yg cupful fine-chopped onions and 1 bruised 
clove of garlic, cook 5 minutes; then put in the meat, stir fre- 
quently, and cook 15 minutes; add Yg pint of canned tomatoes, 
cover, and cook slowly Ys hour. Melt Ys tablespoonful butter in a 
saucej)an, add Ys tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 
Y2 pint broth or boiling water, cook 3 minutes ; add it to the meat, 
cook 15 minutes, and serve with boiled rice. 

Lamb Fries, Broiled. — Eemove the skin from 4 lamb fries, 
cut each one into 3 slices, season with 1 teaspoonful seasoning salt, 
mix 2 tablespoonfuls olive oil with Ys teaspoonful English mixed 



308 MEATS. 

mustard, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, pour this over the slices ; mix 
well together ; dip each slice into fresh grated bread crumbs, lay on 
a hot broiler, and broil over a clear fire 10 minutes, turning fre- 
quently. Serve on a warm dish, garnish with cut lemon, and serve 
with following sauce : Melt Yg ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 
tablespoonful fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes ; add Yg table- 
spoonful flour, cook 3 minutes ; then add 1 cup boiling water, 
Yg even teaspoonful salt, a little white pepper, and a small bou- 
quet, cook 6 minutes. Strain, add 1 teaspoonful beef extract, Y2 
teaspoonful English mixed mustard, a little Cayenne pepper, and 
serve. 

Laml) Fries h, rAllemande. — Eemove the skin from 6 lamb 
fries, cut each one into 3 slices, season with 1 even tablespoonful 
seasoning salt, lay in a covered dish with 1 tablespoonful oil and 
the juice of 1 lemon, cover, and set aside 1 hour. Eemove, dry on a 
towel, and dust with flour ; dip each slice in beaten egg, and cover 
with fine grated bread crumbs. Melt Y2 ounce butter and Ys ounce 
pure lard, when hot put in the lamb fries, fry light brown on both 
sides ; dress on a warm dish in a pyramid, put on top a bunch of 
fried parsley, lay some quarters of lemon in a circle around it, and 
serve with tomato sauce ^ I'allemande. 

Lamb Haslet Eagoftt.— Place a lamb's heart and liver in a 
saucepan of boiling water, cook 5 minutes ; then remove and in- 
stantly plunge into cold water ; let it lie 5 minutes ; remove and 
cut the liver and heart into 1-inch pieces. Put a saucepan with 
2 ounces fine-cut larding pork over the fire, fry light brown ; add 
2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, cook 3 minutes ; season the 
heart and liver with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, add them to 
the saucepan, cover and cook 10 minutes, stirring frequently ; then 
cover with 1 pint of stock or broth, add Ys can of mushrooms, a small 
bouquet, cook 25 minutes ; add the juice of 1 lemon, boil 12 small 
white onions 10 minutes in water with 1 teaspoonful sugar ; then 
drain, and add to the ragout. Melt 1 ounce butter, add 1 table- 



MEATS. 309 

spoonful flour, stir 2 minutes ; add it to the saucepan, and cook a 
few minutes longer. Serve on a warm dish, and garnish with small 
slices of bread fried brown in butter or with a nudle border, rice 
timbales, or farina dumplings. (If mushrooms are not handy they 
may be omitted.) 

Xamb Hakel-Lummels. — Place a lamb's head and haslet in 
a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 
teaspoonful pepper, 3 onions, 1 small carrot, and a bouquet ; cover 
and cook slowly till tender. When done take it from the saucepan, 
remove all the meat from the head, cut it into small pieces, and 
the haslet into 1-inch pieces. Melt 2 ounces butter in a sauce- 
pan, add 1 fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes without browning ; 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 2 minutes ; add 2 cupfuls broth 
from the haslet, 1 cup white vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, boil 
a few minutes ; add the fine-cut meat, cook 5 minutes ; then taste 
if necessary, add salt and pepper, and serve with potatoes or farina 
dumplings. 

Lamb Haslet, Braised.— Chop 1 onion exceedingly fine, mix 
it with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt ; cut 4 ounces larding pork 
into strips half a finger thick, roll the slices of pork in the seasoning ; 
make 6 incisions in the liver and 3 in the heart with a small pointed 
knife, put 1 strip of pork into each incision ; cut the pork even 
with the liver, rub the remaining seasoning all over the liver and 
heart. Put a few slices of pork or the trimmings in a saucepan, 
add 2 sliced onions, 1 small carrot, lay the heart and liver on top of 
this, add 1 quart of stock, cover first with buttered paper, then 
put on the lid ; cook slowly 1 hour ; then take the heart and liver 
out, lay in a baking pan ; strain the broth, free it from fat, and 
pour over the liver and heart ; set the pan in a hot oven, roast ^s 
hour, basting frequently. Shortly before serving lay the haslet 
on a warm dish, melt 1 ounce butter in a small saucepan, add Yg 
tablespoonful flour, cook 2 minutes ; add the gravy from pan, cook 
5 minutes ; add the juice of Yg lemon, a pinch of sugar, and a little 



310 MEATS. 

beef extract, pour a little sauce over the liver and heart, and serve 
the remainder in a sauce bowl ; garnish with potato patricia and 
carrot balls. 

Lamb Trotters, Boiled. — Dip 1 dozen lambs' feet into boil- 
ing water, scrape clean, split them underneath, remove the pointed 
hoof bones, leaving the foot whole. Mix 1 tablespoonful flour with 
Y2 pint of cold water, add 3 pints boiling water, 1 onion, 1 small clove 
of garlic, 1 tablespoonful salt, a bouquet, and 12 whole peppers; 
cover and cook slowly 4 hours. When done, drain, and serve with 
any kind of sauce desired. 

Lamb Tongue a TAllemande.— Place 12 lambs' tongues in a 
saucepan, cover with boiling water, cook 3 minutes, then drain, and 
put them for a few minutes in cold water ; return the tongues to 
saucepan, add sufficient boiling water to cover, 1 onion, 1 small carrot, 
a bouquet, 1 tablespoonful salt, and 12 whole peppers, cook until 
tender ; when done, take the tongues out, remove the white skin, 
and set in a warm place. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 
heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add V-J^ cup- 
ful white broth, % cupful mushroom liquor, 1 even teaspoonf ul salt, 
V4 teaspoonful white pepper, and a small bouquet, cook 6 minutes ; 
then strain, add the juice of V2 lemon ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 
Ys cupful cream, add gradually to the sauce. Place the tongue on a 
hot dish, pour over the sauce, garnish with 6 rice timbales, and 
serve. 

Lamb Tongue a la Jardiniere.— Boil 1 dozen lambs' tongues 
as in the foregoing recipe. Place 1 pint green peas in a saucepan, 
cover with boiling water, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and cook till 
done and nearly dry ; add Yg ounce butter mixed with Y4 teaspoon- 
ful cornstarch, season with Y2 even teaspoonful salt, cook a few 
minutes ; add 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, 2 tablespoon- 
fuls cream, or a little unsweetened condensed milk; cook 1 pint 
carrots (cut julienne) in boiling water, with 1 tablespoonful sugar; 
when done and nearly dry, add Y2 ounce butter mixed with Ys tea- 



MEATS. 311 

spoonful cornstarch, season with Yg even teaspoonful salt, and cook 
a few minutes ; add 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley ; then arrange 
the tongues on a warm dish, lay in a circle 13 small boiled potatoes 
around them, and serve. 

Broiled Lamb Tongue. — Split 12 boiled lamb tongues in half, 
dip them in melted butter, cover with fresh grated bread crumbs, 
lay the tongue on a hot broiler, and broil light brown on both sides. 
Dress the tongue on a warm dish, spread over 2 ounces maitre 
d'hotel butter, and garnish with fried tomatoes. 

Lamlb Tongue a la Tortonia. — Prepare 12 lambs' tongues as 
in foregoing recipe, serve, in place of maitre d'hotel butter, with 
tomato sauce, and garnish with potatoes tortonia. 

Lamb Chops, Fried. — Procure lYs pound nicely trimmed 
lamb chops. Place a frying pan, without any fat, over the fire, 
when hot put in as many chops as will conveniently lie in the pan, 
fry 8 minutes, turning 3 times ; when firm to the touch, and offer- 
ing a slight resistance, they are done (great care must be taken not 
to overcook them). When they are thus all fried, arrange them 
nicely on a warm dish; mix 1 ounce butter with Yg tablespoonful 
seasoning salt, spread this over the chops equally divided. Arrange 
the chops in a straight row in center of the dish, having the bone 
underneath ; garnish the sides with fried tomatoes ; serve with 
baked potatoes and young corn boiled on the cob. 

Lamb Chops, Broiled. — Take lYs pound lamb chops nicely 
trimmed and prepared ; brush over with melted butter, lay on a hot 
broiler, and broil 8 minutes, turning frequently. When done 
arrange on a hot dish, mix 1 ounce butter with Ys tablespoonful 
seasoning salt, spread it over the cho^js, and garnish with French 
fried potatoes. 

Epigrams of Lamb. — Place 2 ounces fine-cut fat pork in a 
saucepan, add 1 carrot and 2 sliced onions ; on top of this place the 
breast of a lamb, add a bouquet, Ys tablespoonful salt, and 12 whole 



312 MEATS. 

peppers ; cover with boiling water, put on the lid, and boil slowly 
till the bones can easily be removed ; then take them out, lay the 
breast on a hot dish, put over a board or flat dish, set a weight on 
top till cold. Strain the broth, remove all the fat, and reduce it by 
boiling to a half glaze. When the breasts are cold cut them into 
half -heart-shaped pieces ; trim nicely, and insert a small bone into 
each pointed end ; lay into a pan, pour over the reduced broth, and 
place for 10 minutes in the oven, basting frequently. At the same 
time fry as many French lamb chops as there are chops of the 
breast ; arrange them on a hot dish alternately in 2 rows, and place 
a garnish on each side of it, prepared as follows : Boil 1 quart small 
string beans in salted water ; when done, drain and place them in a 
saucepan with 2 ounces butter, cook 10 minutes. At the same 
time scald 4 medium-sized tomatoes in boiling water, remove the 
skin, cut each tomato in half, press out the moisture. Place the 
tomatoes in a pan, season with 1 teaspoonful seasoning salt, and 
pour 1 ounce melted butter over ; set the pan for 10 minutes in a 
hot oven. Arrange the beans in clusters on each side of the epi- 
grams, and lay between each cluster a piece of tomato, then serve. 
In place of this garnish any other garnish may be used. 

Epigram of Lamb a la Tilleroi. — Place 1 breast of lamb 
in a saucepan, cover with boiling water ; add a bouquet, 2 onions, 1 
small carrot, V2 tablespoonful salt, and 1 teaspoonful coarsely pound- 
ed pepper, boil until tender ; then take it out, remove the bones, 
place the breast on a dish under a weight, and set aside. When 
cold, cut the meat into 8 pieces half-heart shape, stick a small bone 
in the narrow end, then season with pepper and salt, cover entirely 
with a thick sauce a I'allemande, and set aside till cold ; then dip each 
chop into beaten egg, cover with bread crumbs, and fry to a delicate 
brown in half lard, half butter. Fry, and season with pepper and salt, 
8 French chops to a fine color ; arrange them in a circle on a hot 
dish alternately with the breast, decorate the handles with paper 
frills, and pour in the center a mushroom salpicon. 



MEATS. 313 



MUTTON. 



Boiled Mutton. — Select a nice ]eg of mutton, wipe it off with 
a damp towel, place it in a large kettle, cover with boiling water, 
add 1 tablespoonfal salt, 3 large onions, 1 carrot, 1 white turnip, 13 
whole peppercorns, and a large bouquet ; cover and boil slowly from 
273 to 3 hours. When done, lay the mutton on a warm dish, and serve 
with caper sauce, boiled potatoes, and any kind of vegetables that 
may be desired. The broth can be used for soup. 

Mutton a la Allemande.— Procure a leg of young mutton, 
wipe it off with a damp towel, season with 1 tablespoonful season- 
ing salt, rubbing the seasoning well into the meat. Fry 4 ounces 
larding pork in a saucepan till crisp, add 2 ounces butter ; as soon 
as the butter is melted put in the mutton, turn frequently, and 
cook till light brown all over; add Yg pint boiling water, cover, 
and cook 20 minutes ; then add 1 pint of sour cream, cook slowly 
from 2Y3 to 3 hours, turning the meat now and then (when the 
gravy boils away add more water and cream, but not too much at 
a time). Shortly before serving add Yg cupful fine-chopped onions, 
cook 15 minutes longer. Transfer the meat to a hot dish, remove 
every particle of fat from the gravy, mix 1 tablespoonful flour with 
1 gill of cold water, add it to the gravy, cook for a few minutes ; 
add suflBcient boiling water to make a creamy sauce, boil 3 minutes ; 
then strain, pour a few spoonfuls over the meat, and serve the re- 
mainder in a sauce bowl. Serve with Eussian turnips a la cr^me 
and mashed or boiled potatoes. 

Leg of Mutton a la Westphalia. — Procure a nice leg of 
mutton at least 10 days old, remove the skin and fat, lard it closely 
with fine strips of larding pork, season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning 
salt. Make 6 deep incisions in the meat 2 inches apart, cut 1 large 
white onion lengthwise into 6 pieces, put a piece of onion into each 
incision, press them down so that they can not be seen on top the 
meat. Lay the mutton in a roasting pan, baste it well with 2 



314: MEATS. 

ounces melted butter, set in a hot oven,- baste frequently, and roast 
till the gravy begins to brown on bottom of pan ; add Vg pint of 
veal broth or boiling water, roasting 20 minutes longer ; then add 1 
pint of sour cream, continue the roasting and basting till done, 
which will take from V-/^ to 2 hours. When ready to serve, lay 
the meat on a hot dish ; strain the gravy, remove every particle of 
fat, mix Ys tablespoonful cornstarch with Yg gill of cold water, add 
it to the gravy, cook for a few minutes on top the stove (if too 
thick dilute it with broth or water, and if not brown enough add a 
little sugar color). Serve with any kind of cooked vegetables in sea- 
son ; or serve with Hanovarian pudding, stewed prunes, and small 
boiled potatoes. 

Leg of Mutton a I'Americaine. — Procure a fine leg of 
mutton from a first-class butcher to make this excellent dish to 
perfection. Select meat which is at least 1 week old in summer, or 
a week and over in winter. Wipe the meat off with a damp towel, 
season it with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt, spread 1 ounce 
butter over the top. Place the mutton in a roasting pan, set it in a 
hot oven, roast until it has obtained a light brown color, basting 
frequently ; then add 1 cupful boiling water, continue to roast and 
baste till done. (It will take for a leg of 8 pounds 2Y2 hours. The 
mutton should be done, but still a little rare toward the bone. Some 
like it very rare ; in that case 1 hour would be sufficient.) When 
ready to serve, lay the meat on a hot dish ; remove the fat from 
gravy, mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water, add 
it to the gravy, stir and cook a few minutes ; add sufficient boiling 
water or broth to make 1 pint of sauce, cook a few minutes. Strain, 
add Y2 tablespoonful butter (if water has been used in place of 
broth, add Y3 teaspoonful beef extract), then serve. Some prefer to 
have the gravy not thickened, then simply remove the fat, add a 
little boiling water to the gravy, strain, and serve with the meat. 
Serve mashed or boiled potatoes and string beans a la creme with 
this, or any vegetables in season. The mutton may be garnished 



MEATS. 315 

with stuffed tomatoes or boiled sweet potatoes freed from their 
skins, and fried brown in butter. 

Saddle of Mutton a rAllemande.— Procure a well-seasoned 
saddle of mutton, remove the bones and superfluous fat, season the 
inside with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, roll it up and secure its 
shape with several rows of strings tied around it ; rub 1 tablespoon- 
ful seasoning salt all over the meat, place it in a roasting pan, 
spread 2 ounces butter over the top. Set the pan in a hot oven, 
roast until the meat has obtained a fine brown, basting it frequently 
with its own gravy ; add 1 cup of boiling water, 2 whole onions, a 
few pieces of carrot, roast and baste 20 minutes ; then add 1 pint 
sour cream, roast and baste often until the meat is done. Shortly 
before serving take the saddle from oven, take off the strings, lay it 
on a warm dish ; remove all fat from gravy, mix Yg tablespoonful 
cornstarch with '/g gill of cold water, add it to the gravy, set the 
pan on top of stove, stir and cook 3 minutes (if too thick dilute it 
with boiling water or broth ; there should be 1 pint of sauce). Strain, 
pour a little of the sauce over the meat, serve the remainder in a sauce 
bowl. Serve with boiled potatoes and red cabbage a Talleraande. 

Saddle of Mutton a la Milanaise.— Select a fine saddle of 
mutton (about 7 pounds in weight), remove the upper skin, tie it 
with several rows of strings to secure its shape, season with 1 table- 
spoonful salt. Lay the meat in a roasting pan, pour Yg cupful 
water in the bottom of pan, set in a hot oven, roast and baste fre- 
quently till done, which will take 1 hour (or allow 10 minutes for 
each pound ; mutton roasted in this way should be rare, the same 
as roast beef). When done, dress the meat on a hot dish ; remove 
all fat from gravy, dilute with 1 gill of boiling water, strain, and 
serve with the meat. Garnish with tomatoes a la Milanaise. In 
place of tomatoes it may be garnished with teutonia potatoes. It is 
then called h la Teutonia. 

Saddle of Mutton a la Madeira. — Prepare a saddle of mutton 
as in foregoing recipes, and serve with Madeira sauce. Saddle of 
21 



316 MEATS. 

mutton may be served with currant jelly, Colbert, or truffle sauce; 
it is then named either after the sauce or garnish. 

Roast Mutton prepared like Yenison.— Boil 1 pint vinegar 
and 1 pint water with 2 onions, 6 cloves, 1 dozen peppers, 2 blades 
of mace, and 2 bay leaves 15 minutes. Strain, and when cold pour 
it over a leg of mutton, let it lie for 4 or 5 days, turning it each 
day once. When ready to dress take out and lard the meat with 
fine strips of larding pork, season with salt and pepper, put it in a 
pan, pour over 2 ounces melted butter. Place the pan in a hot 
oven, roast and baste first with the butter, then add by degrees 1 cup 
of boiling water and 1 of sour cream, let the meat roast until done, 
which will take 2Y3 hours. When ready to serve remove it to a 
hot dish ; skim and thicken the gravy with a little cornstarch ; 
strain and serve with the meat. If the gravy should not be dark 
enough, add a few drops of sugar color, send currant jelly to table 
with it. A saddle of mutton may be dressed in the same way. 

Leg of Mutton Mariniere. — Remove the skin and super- 
fluous fat from a well-seasoned leg of mutton, lard it closely with 
fine strips of larding pork, season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning 
salt. Lay the mutton in a bowl or stone jar, pour over the marinade 
mentioned below, cover and let it stand 3 days, turning it once each 
day. For marinade, place a saucepan with 1 cupful fine-chopped 
onions over the fire, add 2 ounces beef drippings, V2 cupful fine-cut 
carrots, 1 sprig of cut celery, stir and cook 10 minutes, then add 1 
quart white vinegar, 1 pint of water, 6 cloves, 1 bay leaf, 1 table- 
spoonful coarsely pounded black pepper, the same of allspice, 1 
blade of mace, Yg bunch of parsley, and cook 40 minutes; then 
strain through a fine sieve, and when cold pour it over the meat. 
When the leg of mutton is to be cooked, take it from the marinade 
and wipe it dry. Cover the bottom of a double pan or wide sauce- 
pan with 4 ounces fine-cut larding pork, 2 sliced onions, 1 sliced 
carrot, and a bouquet ; lay the meat on top of this, pour the mari- 
nade over all, cover the meat with buttered paper, put over the lid, 



MEATS. 31Y 

place over the fire, and cook slowly 2Y2 to 3 hours. Take out the 
meat, lay it in a baking pan, strain the broth, remove all fat, pour 
the broth over the meat ; add Y2 cupful currant or apple jelly, 
place the pan in a hot oven, baste frequently and roast 30 minutes ; 
then lay the meat on a hot dish. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, 
add 1 tablespoonf ul flour, cook 2 minutes ; add the gravy from the 
pan (if too thick, add sufficient boiling water to make 1 pint of 
sauce), boil three minutes; add Y2 ounce butter, and, if handy, Yg 
teaspoonful beef extract and 1 tablespoonful currant jelly. Pour 1 
gill of sauce over the meat, and the remainder in a sauce bowl. 
Serve with potato dumplings and stewed prunes. 

Braised Leg of Mutton. — Remove the skin and superfluous 
fat from a leg of mutton ; lard it closely with fine strips of larding 
pork, season with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, rubbing the sea- 
soning well into the meat ; cover the bottom of a double roasting 
pan, or one which has a well-fitting cover, add 2 onions, 1 carrot, 1 
branch of celery, Ys white turnip, 2 ounces larding pork, 2 ounces 
raw ham, place the meat on top of this ; add 2 quarts of stock or 
boiling water, cover the meat first with buttered paper, then put on 
the lid ; set the pan in a medium-hot oven, or on top the stove, and 
cook from 2 to 3 hours. When the meat is done transfer it to a 
roasting pan, remove the fat from broth, then strain the broth over 
the meat ; set in a hot oven, baste frequently until the meat has ob- 
tained a fine glaze, then lay it on a warm dish. Dilute the gravy in 
pan with a little boiling water, scrape off the brown part from the 
sides and bottom of pan and mix it with the gravy. Melt 1 ounce 
butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir a few minutes ; 
add the gravy from the meat (if too thick add sufficient boiling 
water to make 1 pint of sauce), cook 5 minutes, then strain, pour Y2 
gill of sauce over the meat and pour the remainder in a sauce bowl. 
Braised mutton may be garnished with cabbage rolls or cauliflower ; 
it may also be served with spinach, creamed carrot, creamed chicory, 
string beans, or creamed turnips. 



318 MEATS. 

Braised Mutton a la Proven^ale. — Remove the bone from a 
nice leg of mutton, fill it with sausage forcemeat, and sew it up ; 
remove the skin on top, and lard it with fine strips of larding pork ; 
season with 1 tablespoonf ul salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper, rub the sea- 
soning well into the meat. Put 4 ounces lean raw ham in a double 
baking pan or a saucepan with a tight-fitting cover ; add 2 onions, 
1 carrot, 2 cloves of garlic, 12 whole peppers, and a bouquet, put 
the meat on top of this ; pour 1 gill of brandy over it, add 3 pints 
of stock or broth ; cover the meat with buttered paper, put on the 
cover, set it in a medium-hot oven or on top the stove, and cook 
from 3 to SYg hours. When the meat is done remove it to a roast- 
ing pan ; strain the broth, remove all the fat, and pour the broth 
over the meat ; return to the oven, roast and baste till it has obtained 
a nice glaze ; then lay the meat on a warm dish ; garnish with baked 
tomatoes and boiled white onions. Melt 1 tablespoonf ul butter in 
a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonf ul flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 
the gravy from the meat (if too thick add sufficient boiling water to 
make a creamy sauce) ; strain and serve with the meat. 

Saddle of Mutton, Braised a la Fran^aise.— Procure a fat 

saddle of mutton, remove the spine bone without injuring the fillets ; 
cut the flaps square ; then season the saddle inside with one even table- 
spoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, roll it up, pass some strings 
several times around it and tie firmly ; rub 1 even tablespoonf ul salt 
and 1 even teaspoonful pepper all over the meat ; cover the bottom of 
a double roasting pan with 2 onions, 1 carrot, a bouquet, 2 cloves of 
garlic ; lay the meat on top of this, add sufficient broth or stock to 
nearly cover the meat ; cover first with buttered paper, then put on 
the cover ; set the pan over the fire, cook slowly from 3 to 4 hours. 
When the meat is done, lay it in a baking pan ; strain the broth, re- 
move all the fat, then reduce it by boiling to 1 quart ; pour this over 
the meat, set the pan in a hot oven, and roast till the meat has ob- 
tained a nice color ; then lay it on a warm dish ; garnish with stuffed 
onions. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add 1 table- 



MEATS. 319 

spoonful flour, stir a few minutes, add the gravy from the meat, 
cook 5 minutes ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Ys cupful cream, add 
it to the sauce ; remove from the fire, add the juice of Yg lemon 
and a little nutmeg (if the gravy should be too thick dilute it with 
cream). 

Neck of Mutton,, Braised. — Trim nicely 2 necks of mutton, 
put them in a saucepan, cover with 3 pints of broth or stock ; add 
2 onions, Ya carrot, a small bouquet ; add Ys pound salt pork, 6 
whole peppers, cover, and cook slowly from IY2 to 2 hours till done. 
As soon as done lay the necks in a roasting pan ; strain the broth, 
remove all the fat, and reduce it by boiling to IY2 pir^t ; pour this 
over the necks, roast, and baste till they have obtained a fine color ; 
then dress on a warm dish, pour part of the gravy over, and garnish 
with groups (1 pint each) of potatoes, carrots, and turnip balls 
boiled in water and sauted in butter ; or any other kind of vegetables 
may be served with it. Cut the salt pork in thin slices and lay it 
between the groups of vegetables. 

Shoulder of Mutton, Potted. — Eemove the bones from a 
shoulder of mutton and fill it either with sausage or veal forcemeat, 
or with bread and potato filling (see Foecemeat), sew up, and tie 
firmly with a string ; season with 1 tablespoonf ul seasoning salt. 
Place a saucepan large enough to hold the shoulder over the fire 
with 2 ounces fine-cut larding pork ; fry light brown ; put in the 
meat, turn frequently, and cook till the meat has obtained a light- 
brown color ; then add 1 cupful of broth or boiling water, a small 
clove of garlic, 1 onion, Y2 carrot, and a small bouquet ; cover and 
cook slowly from 2Y2 to 3 hours (adding more water if it boils 
away). When done take the shoulder from saucepan, lay it on a 
hot dish, remove all the fat from the gravy ; mix 1 tablespoonful 
cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the gravy, stir, and 
cook a few minutes on top the stove ; add enough boiling water or 
broth to make 1 pint of sauce, boil 3 minutes ; strain, pour 1 gill of 
sauce over the meat, and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl. 



320 MEATS. 

Serve with stewed tomatoes and mashed potatoes or any kind of 
vegetables in season. 

Shoulder of Mutton boiled with Cabbage.— Place a well- 
prepared shoulder of mutton in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, 
cook 5 minutes, then remove, and plunge it instantly into cold 
water ; return the shoulder to saucepan, cover with fresh boiling 
water, add Yg even tablespoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful salt, 3 
onions, 1 carrot, 1 white turnip, a bouquet, and 13 peppercorns. 
Place the saucepan over the fire and cook slowly 3 hours. Cut a 
medium-sized cabbage into quarters, place it in a saucepan, cover 
with boiling water, add 1 tablespoonful sugar, cover, and boil 1 
hour ; then drain the cabbage on a sieve, return it to the sauce- 
pan, add lYa pint of the mutton broth, cover, and cook about 30 
minutes, till tender. When ready to serve lift the meat from the 
broth, lay it on a warm dish ; drain the cabbage and serve it with 
the meat and boiled potatoes. Tomatoes cut into slices, dressed 
with vinegar, a little sugar, salt, and pepper may be served with 
this ; also beet or cucumber salad. For salad see my book Desserts 
and Salads, recipes 860, 863. 

Breast of Mutton, Boiled. — Cooked the same as shoulder of 
mutton. 

Mutton Chops a la Mariniere. — Prepare 6 mutton chops the 
same as for broiling, season with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt, 
place them in a covered dish with 2 onions cut into slices, 1 sprig 
of thyme, 2 tablespoonfuls olive oil, Vg bunch of parsley, cover 
the dish, and set in a cool place for 2 hours. Fifteen minutes be- 
fore serving place a broiler over a clear fire, remove the chops, lay 
them on the hot broiler, and broil about 10 minutes, turning fre- 
quently ; when firm to the touch and offering a slight resistance, lay 
them on a hot dish, spread 2 ounces maitre d'hotel butter over, gar- 
nish with fried or broiled tomatoes and serve with baked potatoes. 

Mutton Cutlets a la Marquise. — Procure 6 mutton chops 1 
inch thick and 5 inches long, remove the meat 1 inch deep from 



MEATS. 321 

the end bone, cut off the outside skin which covers the fat, pound 
the chops lightly, and flatten to Y4 inch ; season with 1 even table- 
spoonful seasoning salt. Melt 2 ounces butter in a pan, add the 
chops, cook 2 minutes on each side ; then remove, lay on a dish, 
put over a light press. When cold dip each in Villeroi sauce in 
which Ya cupful of fine-chopped mushrooms have been mixed ; 
let stand till cold. Thirty minutes before serving besprinkle the 
cutlets with bread crumbs, dip in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, 
pat nice and smooth with a knife. Melt 2 ounces of butter in a 
baking pan, put in the chops, and bake in a moderate oven light 
brown on both sides. Arrange on a warm dish, garnish with stewed 
mushrooms, and the bone with paper frills. Serve with tomato 
sauce. 

Nurnberger Cutlet. — Take a 3-pound piece of mutton from 
the rack, remove the bones, and cut the meat into 6 chops ; cut off 
a piece from the rind so that the chops are about 8 inches long, re- 
move part of the fat, roll them into round shapes, beginning at the 
thick end, securing their shape with a toothpick, pound them lightly 
to flatten. Place a frying pan over the fire, let it get hot, then put 
in the chops, and fry 8 minutes, turning them 3 times. When 
firm to the touch, offering a slight resistance, they are done. Dress 
them on a warm dish ; mix 1 ounce butter with Yg even table- 
spoonful seasoning salt, spread this over the chops. Put 1 fine- 
chopped onion in the mutton fat, fry 5 minutes without browning ; 
add Ys tablespoonf ul flour, stir a few minutes ; add 1 cup of boiling 
water, Ys teaspoonful beef extract, Y2 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 tea- 
spoonful pepper, cook 3 minutes ; then strain, add 1 tablespoonf ul 
lemon juice, a sprinkle of sugar, mix, and pour in a sauce bowl. 
Pour a little sauce over each chop, garnish with 1 pint stewed green 
peas, 1 pint boiled carrot balls, and 1 pint of small cooked potato 
balls. 

Mutton Chops, Breaded and Broiled.— Procure G nicely 
trimmed mutton chops from the rack, season with 1 even table- 



322 MEATS. 

spoonful seasoning salt, brush each over with melted butter, and roll 
in fresh grated bread crumbs. Lay the chops on a hot broiler, and 
broil 10 minutes, or until firm to the touch, offering a slight resist- 
ance. Arrange the chops on a warm dish in a straight row, pour a 
little of the sauce mentioned below over each, and lay Yo pint pota- 
toes a la Minden on each side of the chops. For sauce : Fry 1 
tablespoonful fine-chopped onion in 1 ounce butter 6 minutes ; add 
Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 cup of boil- 
ing water, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, Y2 even teaspoonful salt, % 
teaspoonful pepper, cook 5 minutes, then strain ; add 1 tablespoon- 
ful lemon juice, pour a little of the sauce over each chop, and serve 
the remainder in a sauce bowl. 

Mutton Chops a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Prepare and broil 6 
chops as in foregoing recipe, and spread 1 ounce maitre d'hotel 
butter over, in place of the sauce. 

Mutton Chops, Broiled. — Procure 6 mutton chops iVg inch 
in thickness, remove the skin which covers the fat, shorten the rib 
bones ; make a handle to the cutlets by removing the fat from the 
bone. When all are prepared in this way, pound lightly to flatten 
down to 1 inch ; brush the chops over with melted butter, lay on a 
hot broiler, and broil 10 minutes, turning frequently. Dress them 
on a warm dish ; spread V2 teaspoonful seasoning butter over each 
chop, and serve with French fried potatoes, German puffs, or hot 
muffins. 

Mutton Chops, Fried.— To have mutton chops fried to per- 
fection the cooking should be done in such a way that they retain 
all their juices ; they should not be overcooked nor underdone. 
Place a frying pan over the fire, when hot put in as many chops as 
will conveniently go in, fry about 8 minutes, turning 3 times ; the 
chops should be just a little rare inside ; if cooked too long they 
will be dry and tasteless, and if not cooked enough, too rare. An 
experienced cook can tell by touching them with a finger ; if firm 
to the touch and offering a slight resistance, they are done, and 



MEATS. 323 

should be instantly removed. Arrange the cooked chops on a warm 
dish. Spread Y4 teaspoonful seasoning butter over each chop, and 
serve with baked potatoes and hot biscuits or corn muffins. 

Devilled Kidneys. — Split 6 lamb kidneys, remove the white 
part in center, and chop the kidneys fine ; place a saucepan with 1 
ounce butter over the fire, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onions, 
Ys bruised clove of garlic, cook 3 minutes; add Y2 cupful fine- 
chopped mushrooms, cook 3 minutes ; add the kidneys and 1 tea- 
spoonful seasoning salt, stir and cook 3 minutes ; then add 1 gill of 
sherry wine, 1 gill of boiling water with Ys teaspoonful beef extract 
or broth, cook 3 minutes longer. Eemove from fire, add the yolks 
of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, and a little Cayenne 
pepper. Fill this mixture into 6 table shells, sprinkle over each 
Ys tablespoonful fresh grated bread crumbs and a little melted 
butter. Place the shells in a shallow tin pan, set the pan in a hot 
oven, and bake light brown. When ready to serve, arrange the 
shells on a dish with folded napkin, and serve. 

Mutton Kidney Saute. — Split 6 mutton kidneys in halves, 
remove the fatty part from the center, cut the kidneys into slices. 
Melt 1 ounce butter in a low saucepan, season the kidneys with 1 
teaspoonful seasoning salt, add them to the butter, cook and stir 3 
minutes ; add 1 gill of sherry wine, cook 5 minutes ; sprinkle over 
Y2 teaspoonful flour, stir for a few minutes ; add 1 gill of boiling 
water with Ys teaspoonful beef extract, add 1 tablespoonful lemon 
juice, toss for a few minutes over the fire, and serve with croutons. 

Mutton Kidney with Fines Herbes. — Prepare 6 mutton 
kidneys as in above recipe ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt and Y4 
teaspoonful pepper. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 
tablespoonful fine-chopped onion and 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped 
mushrooms, cook 5 minutes; then add the kidneys, cook a few 
minutes; add Ys gill of sherry wine and 1 tablespoonful lemon 
juice, cook 5 minutes. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs Avitli Ys cup of 
cream, add it to the kidneys, toss for a few minutes over the fire. 



324 MEATS. 

Serve them on a warm disli with a border of fleurons. For Fleurons, 
see my book Desserts and Salads, recipe 721. 

Mutton Kidneys on Skewers. — Split 6 mutton kidneys, not 
separating the parts, remove the skin, season with 1 teaspoonful 
salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, dip in melted butter or fine olive oil. 
Take 3 skewers ; run a skewer through the thickest part of 2 kid- 
neys, treat the remaining 4 the same way. Lay them on a hot 
broiler, with the open side toward the fire, boil 10 minutes, turning 
several times. When done, arrange the kidneys on a hot dish, alter- 
nately with 6 slices of broiled bacon, spread 2 ounces of maitre 
d'hotel butter over, and serve. 

Mutton Kidney a la Mayence. — Split 6 mutton kidneys in 
halves, remove the white center, cut the kidneys into slices, season 
with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt. Melt 1 ounce butter in a 
saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped onion, Yg clove of 
bruised garlic, stir and cook 5 minutes ; then add the kidneys, cook 
5 minutes ; add 1 gill of red wine, continue to cook 3 minutes 
more. Melt Yg ounce butter in a small saucepan, add Y2 teaspoonful 
flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add Y2 cupful boiling water, Ys tea- 
spoonful beef extract, stir and cook 2 minutes ; season with a pinch 
of salt and pepper, add the sauce to the kidneys, toss for a few min- 
utes over the fire, and serve. 

Kidney Saute with Madeira Sauce.— Remove the white 
part of 6 mutton kidneys, cut the kidneys into slices, put, with Y2 
tablespoonful butter, in a small saucepan over the fire ; add 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, Ys even teaspoonful pepper, and cook 6 minutes. 
In the meantime cook 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped onion and carrot 
in Yg tablespoonful butter 5 minutes ; add Ys tablespoonful flour, 
and cook 2 minutes; next add Ys cupful boiling water, 3 table- 
spoonfuls sherry wine, a little mushroom liquor, Ys teaspoonful beef 
extract, a small bouquet, Ys even teaspoonful salt, and a little pepper, 
cook 10 minutes ; add the juice of Ys lemon, strain, and add it to 
the kidneys. Mix all together, and serve with croustade. 



MEATS. 325 

Croustade of Kidney.— Line 6 tartlet molds with puff paste, 
cover with wax paper, fill with dry peas, and bake in a hot oven till 
done ; remove paper and peas, and fill them with the below-men- 
tioned kidney preparation and serve hot. Prepare the kidney for the 
croustade as follows : Split and remove the white fatty part of 8 me- 
dium-sized mutton or lamb kidneys, cut the kidneys into slices, put 
with 1 ounce butter in small saucepan over the fire, add 1 even tea- 
spoonful salt, Ys even teaspoonf ul pepper, cook 6 minutes. In the 
meantime cook 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped onion and carrot in y^ 
tablespoonf ul butter 5 minutes ; add Yg tablespoonful flour, cook 2 
minutes ; next add Ys cupful boiling water, 3 tablespoonfuls sherry 
wine, 1 gill mushroom liquor, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, a small 
bouquet, Ys 6ven teaspoonful salt, and a little pepper, cook 10 min- 
utes ; add the juice of Y2 lemon, strain, and add it to the kidney ; 
toss for a few minutes over the fire, and use as directed. 

Mutton Kidney on Toast.— See Beef Kidney on Toast. 

Irish Mutton Stew.— For this take 2Y2 pounds of mutton 
from the forequarter (not too fat), place the meat in a saucepan, 
cover with boiling water, cook 3 minutes ; remove the meat, and in- 
stantly drop it into cold water, let it remain 5 minutes ; then take 
it out, cut it into lYg-inch pieces. Pare and cut into slices 6 
medium-sized potatoes, 4 medium-sized onions, cut half a cabbage 
into shreds. Mix 2 even tablespoonfuls salt with 1 even teaspoon- 
ful white pepper. Put a layer of the meat into a deep pan, sprinkle 
over a little of the seasoning salt, then add a layer of onion, then 
potatoes, and next the cabbage, seasoning each layer with the sea- 
soning salt ; continue in this way till all is in the pan. Add suf- 
ficient boiling water to nearly cover the stew, cover the pan, and 
place it in a vessel of hot water ; set it in a medium-hot oven, and 
bake 2Y2 hours, or until done. When ready to serve, arrange the 
stew on a long dish. 

Mutton Stew a la Galizienne. — Select 2Y2 pounds of lean 
mutton without any fat from the shoulder. Melt 2 ounces butter 



326 MEATS. 

in saucepan, add Yg cupful fine-chopped onion, 1 bruised clove of 
garlic, cook 5 minutes without browning ; season the meat with 1 
tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper. Mix the meat and sea- 
soning well together, add it to the saucepan, stir and cook 15 min- 
utes ; add 2 fine-cut tomatoes and 3 pints of broth or water, cover 
and cook slowly 1 hour ; then add 1 cupful parboiled rice, cook 30 
minutes (if necessary, add more water). Serve on a hot dish. 

Mutton Stew a la Jaworski.— Procure 2 necks of mutton, 
cut them into 2-inch pieces, place in a saucepan, cover with boil- 
ing water. Fry 2 ounces fine-cut larding pork light brown ; add 
Y2 pint of fine-cut onions, cook 5 minutes ; season the meat with 
1 tablespoonful salt, Yg teaspoonful pepper, add it to the saucepan, 
stir and cook 10 minutes ; then cover with boiling water, and cook 
30 minutes ; add lastly 3 medium-sized sweet potatoes, peeled and 
cut into quarters, 1 pint of fresh shelled Lima beans and 4 medium- 
sized peeled potatoes cut into pieces, cover and cook till done. Melt 
1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir for a 
few minutes ; add it to the stew, cook a few minutes longer ; then 
serve on a warm dish, and garnish with 6 stuffed tomatoes. 

Mutton Stew with Dumplings. — Procure 2Y2 pounds of 
meat from the shoulder, cut it into 2-inch pieces, place in a sauce- 
pan, cover with boiling water, cook 5 minutes ; then drain the meat 
and put it into cold water, let it remain a few minutes ; drain 
once more, put the meat in a saucepan, again cover with boiling 
water ; add 2 even tablespoonfuls salt, Ys e^en tablespoonful white 
pepper, also 6 small white onions, 8 whole peppers, and a bouquet, 
cover and cook slowly 2 hours ; then remove the bouquet and fat. 
Mix 1 ounce butter with 1 tablespoonful flour, add it to the stew ; 
mix 1 pint of prepared flour with Ys ounce of beef drippings or 
butter ; add 4 tablespoonfuls cold water, the yolk of 1 egg, and 1 
whole egg. Mix this quantity together quickly, avoiding too much 
stirring, cut with a tablespoon small portions from this mixture, 
drop into the boiling stew, cover and boil 6 minutes ; then draw 



MEATS. 327 

tlie saucepan to side of stove where it can not boil. Serve on a hot 
dish, arrange the dumplings in a circle around, the edge of dish, 
sprinkle 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley over. Boiled pota- 
toes and string beans or stewed carrots may be served with this dish ; 
or serve without vegetables. 

Mutton Stew. — Cut 273 pounds of mutton from the breast 
or shoulder into 2-inch pieces, place them in a saucepan, cover 
with boiling water ; add 4 ounces salt pork cut into small slices, 
2 onions cut into quarters, 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoon- 
f ul pepper, cover and cook lYg hour ; then strain the broth through 
a sieve, remove every particle of fat. Eeturn the broth to the 
mutton, add 1 quart of peeled potatoes cut into quarters, cook until 
the potatoes are done ; mix 1 ounce butter with 1 tablespoonful 
flour, add it to the stew, cook until smooth, then serve. 

Old-fashioned Mutton Potpie. — Take 2 pounds mutton chops 
off the loin, remove the fat, and cut each chop into 2 pieces ; cut 2 
kidneys into slices and also 2 onions, and peel 6 medium-sized potatoes. 
Line an iron pot around the sides with pie crust (do not put any 
crust on the bottom), put in layers alternately of the meat, onions, 
potatoes, and a few thin slices of salt pork ; season with salt and 
pepper and cover with the same crust ; then pour in sufficient boil- 
ing water to cover the crust, close the pot tightly, and boil slowly 
ly^ hour. In serving, cut the crust into pieces, lay them on a warm 
dish to form a border, and put the rest in the center. 

Mutton Pie. — Take 2 pounds of mutton without much bone or 
fat and 2 kidneys. Cut the meat into lYg-inch-square pieces and the 
kidneys into halves, remove the thick white part in the center, then 
cut the kidneys into slices, put them into a pie dish with the meat, 
season with salt and pepper, and put a few pieces of butter over it ; 
add 2 tablespoonfuls minced onion and 1 pint of water, cover with 
a rich crust, and bake IY2 hour. 

Sheep's Liver, Fried. — Cut the liver into slices, season with 
salt and pepper, roll in flour ; fry 6 slices of bacon, remove them to 



328 MEATS. 

a hot dish ; put the liver into the bacon fat and fry light brown on 
both sides. Arrange them on a warm dish with the bacon ; add to 
the fat in pan Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir 2 minutes ; add 1 cupful 
stock or boiling water with a little beef extract, ^J^ teaspoonf ul salt, 
the same of pepper, and a little butter ; cook 3 minutes ; then strain 
the sauce over the liver and serve. Calf's, beef's, or lamb's liver can 
be prepared the same way. 

Braised Mutton Cutlets a la Proven^ale. — Cut 2 necks of 
mutton into thick cutlets. Put 2 ounces fine-cut larding pork in a 
saucepan, add 1 sliced onion, a small carrot, and a bouquet ; lay the 
cutlets over this, cover with broth, cover with buttered paper, put 
on the lid, set the saucepan over the fire, and boil gently IY2 hour ; 
take them from the fire ; when nearly cold lift the cutlets carefully 
from the liquor, lay them on a flat dish, put over a light weight, 
and set aside till perfectly cold. Thirty minutes before serving 
boil 3 large white onions 10 minutes in water, remove, and chop 
them fine ; place the onion with 1 ounce butter in a saucepan over 
the fire, cover, and cook till done without browning ; season with 
salt and a little white pepper, add Yg tablespoonful flour, stir, and 
cook a few minutes ; add the yolks of 2 eggs and a few spoonfuls 
cream, cook a few minutes ; then remove from the fire, trim the 
cutlets neatly, cover on one side with the onion puree ; sprinkle 
over some grated Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs. In the mean- 
time strain the broth, reduce it by boiling to half glaze; pour a 
little of the glaze in the pan, lay the cutlet over, and bake in a hot 
oven to a delicate brown color ; then remove. Arrange them on a 
hot dish and pour a little glaze over each cutlet and serve. 

Mutton Cutlets a la Pragoise.— Prepare and boil 2 necks of 
mutton the same as in foregoing recipe. When cold trim them 
neatly and cover one side with a horseradish puree prepared as fol- 
lows : Melt 1 ounce butter, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 2 minutes ; 
add a cupful boiling milk, stir, and cook a few minutes ; season 
with 1 even teaspoonf ul salt, add Y2 teaspoonf ul nutmeg, 1 tea- 



MEATS. 32& 

spoonful sugar, a little Cayenne pepper, and Yg cupful grated horse- 
radish ; boil 3 minutes ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with the juice of Yg 
lemon, add it to the horseradish ; mix all well together, then re- 
move. Cover one side of each cutlet with this puree, brush over 
with the beaten white of 1 egg, and sprinkle 1 teaspoonful fine- 
fried bread crumbs over each one. Arrange in a pan, pour a little 
half glaze under them, and bake a few minutes in a hot oven to 
warm through. When ready to serve arrange the cutlets in a circle 
on a warm dish and place in the center some fried sweet-potato balls. 

Cotelettes d'Agneau a la Villeroi. — Prepare 12 lamb chops 
like French chops, season with salt and pepper, fry them for a few 
minutes in butter on both sides about half done, and then set aside 
to cool. In the meantime melt 2 ounces of butter in a saucepan, 
add 2 heaping tablespoonfuls flour, stir for a few minutes ; add 1 
pint of boiling veal or chicken broth, Y2 cupful fine-chopped mush- 
rooms, and Y2 gill ot mushroom liquor ; season with 1 teaspoonful 
seasoning salt, cook 5 minutes, remove to the side of stove. Mix 
the yolks of 4 eggs with Y2 cupful cream and stir it into the sauce. 
Stir for a few minutes over the fire, add 4 tablespoonfuls grated 
Parmesan cheese and the same of Swiss cheese. Eemove the sauce 
from the fire and let it cool ofiE a little. Dip the chops separately 
into the sauce, smooth over with a knife, lay them on a tin plate 
with bread crumbs underneath ; or the sauce may be poured over 
the chops with a spoon. Place the chops Ys hour on ice, then dip 
them into beaten egg, and cover with grated bread crumbs. Ten 
minutes before serving fry them in hot fat to a golden brown. 
Serve with fried parsley. 

COLD LAMB AND MUTTON. 

How to utilize. 
Minced Lamb. — Place a saucepan with 2 ounces butter over the 
fire ; add 3 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes with- 
then add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and 



330 MEATS. 

cook 2 minutes ; add 1 pint of white broth ; season with 1 tea- 
spoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful white pepper, Yg teaspoonful nutmeg, 
and a small bouquet, cook 6 minutes ; remove the bouquet, add 1 
quart fine-chopped cold cooked lamb either roasted or boiled, stir 
and cook 10 minutes ; serve on a warm dish, sprinkle 1 teaspoonful 
fine-chopped parsley over, and garnish with potato croquettes or 
croutons. 

Curry of Lamb.— Procure 2Y3 pounds lamb from the shoul- 
der, cut it into 2-incli sized pieces, place in a saucepan, cover with 
boiling water, let it stand 3 minutes, then drain on a sieve and rinse 
off with cold water ; return the meat to the saucepan, cover with 
boiling water ; add 2 even tablespoonfuls salt, 1 even teaspoonful 
white pepper, and 4 medium-sized onions, cover and boil till the 
meat is tender, about 1 hour. Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, 
add 2 tablespoonfuls flour and 1 tablespoouf ul curry powder, stir 
and cook 2 minutes ; add the broth from the lamb, cook and stir 
till the sauce is smooth ; then strain it into a clean saucepan. Mix 
the yolks of 2 eggs with 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, add it 
slowly to the sauce ; lay the meat on a hot dish and pour the sauce 
over it; garnish with a border of boiled rice. In place of fresh 
meat cold cooked lamb may be used. 

Lamb Croquettes. — Place a saucepan with 2 ounces butter 
and 1 fine-chopped onion over the fire, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 heap- 
ing tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes; add 1 cupful 
boiling milk, a small bouquet, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ys even tea- 
spoonful white pepper, cook 5 minutes ; remove the bouquet, add 1 
pint of finely minced cooked lamb, Y2 cupful fine-minced mush- 
rooms, and Ys tablespoonful fine-minced parsley, cook 10 minutes ; 
add the yolks of 3 eggs, turn the mixture into a shallow tin pan, 
and set aside to cool. When ready to cook, form the preparation 
into cork-shaped croquettes, dip them in beaten egg, then roll in 
grated bread crumbs and fry in hot fat to a delicate brown. Serve 
with bechamel sauce. 



MEATS. 331 

Hasli Balls of Cold Lamb or Mutton.— Chop or grind fine 
some cold cooked lamb ; add to 1 joint of meat 1 pint mashed potatoes, 
or grated cold boiled potatoes. Place a small saucepan with 1 table- 
spoonful butter and 1 fine-chopped onion over the fire, stir and cook 
a few minutes, then add it to the meat and potatoes ; season with 1 
teaspoonful salt, Yg teaspoonf ul white pepper, add 1 egg ; mix all 
well together, and form the mixture into round balls the size of an 
egg, flatten them to V^ inch in thickness, dip in beaten egg, and 
roll in fresh grated bread crumbs. Place a frying pan with 1 table- 
spoonful lard or drippings over the fire ; put in the balls and fry 
them light brown on both sides. Serve on a hot dish with stewed 
tomatoes, tomato, mushroom, or horseradish sauce. 

POEK. 
Boasted Pig. — The principal thing in roasting a suckling pig 
is to keep the skin from blistering. Have the young animal well 
washed and dried, season the inside with 1 even tablespoonful salt 
and Y2 6ven teaspoonful pepper, then stuff it with sausage, oyster, 
or chestnut forcemeat, sew it up. Lay the little pig in a large roasting 
pan, bend the fore feet backward, the hind feet foreward, under and 
close to the body, then skewer them into proper position. Pour 1 
cup boiling water into the bottom of pan, cover the entire animal 
with buttered paper, place in a medium-hot oven, baste frequently 
with its own gravy, removing and replacing the paper each time ; 
roast about 2 hours. (The skin should be crispy, and of a fine 
golden color.) When ready to serve, place the pig on a warm dish 
in the same position it lay in the pan, removing the skewers. Take 
2 well-cleaned horseradish roots, shave them with a knife into nar- 
row ribbons, color half of them to a delicate pink, and leave the 
other half white ; put a little of the iiorseradish in its mouth, and 
lay the remaining around it. (In carving, cut off the head, split 
down the back, take off hams and shoulder, and divide the ribs ; 
serve to each person some of the dressing.) Remove the fat from 
the gravy, mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch with Y3 cupful cold water, 



332 MEATS. 

add it to the gravy, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add sufficient boiling 
water to make a creamy sauce, boil 3 minutes, then strain and serve. 

Suckling Pig with Apple Dressing. — Season the inside of 
a well- cleaned suckling pig with 1 even tablespoonful salt, let stand 
1 hour ; then fill with apple dressing, described below ; sew up, tie 
with strings, so that it rests on its 4 legs, or skewer them into proper 
position. Lay the little animal in a large roasting pan, pour 1 cup- 
ful boiling water into the pan ; cover the entire pig with buttered 
paper ; place the pan in a medium-hot oven, baste frequently, re- 
placing the paper each time, roast about 2 hours. When ready to 
serve, lay the pig on a warm dish, remove strings or skewers and 
put a small red apple in its mouth, and garnish with apple timbales, 
prepared as follows : Peel and core 12 small sound red apples, lay 
them in cold water, with the juice of 1 lemon ; put the peel and 
core of the apples in a saucepan, cover with 3 pints water, and boil 
tender, then strain through cheese cloth. Put the apple liquid in 
a wide saucepan, place it over the fire ; as soon as it boils put in as 
many apples as will conveniently go in, cook until a straw will 
penetrate easily through them, then remove carefully ; when all are 
boiled in this way set aside to cool. Strain the liquid through a 
napkin and measure it (there should be 3 pints ; if not, add suffi- 
cient water to make up the deficiency). Soak 2 ounces of gelatin 
for a few minutes in cold water, then add it to the apple liquid ; 
add 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, boil 3 minutes ; 
strain again through a napkin. Take 12 timbale forms large enough 
to hold a half pint, place them in a pan of cracked ice ; when the jelly 
is cold, pour 2 tablespoonfuls jelly into each timbale form ; let it 
stand till firm, then put 1 apple into each form and fill with jelly ; 
let them stand till cold, then unmold and set them in a circle 
around the little pig, and lay a few sprigs of water cress between 
the apples. 

Apple Dressi]S"G. — Pare and cut into quarters 8 large greening 
apples, remove the core, place the apples in a saucepan over the fire, 



MEATS. 333 

add 1 cupful cold water, cover and cook till tender, but not broken ; 
then remove, and when cold add 4 ounces baker's bread picked into 
small pieces without the rind and dried for 5 minutes in the oven ; 
add IY2 tablespoonf ul sugar, Yg ounce butter, and 2 eggs ; mix all 
together, and use as directed above. 

Roasted Pig with Oyster Forcemeat. — Roast the pig as 
above, and fill it with oyster forcemeat, then decorate with fried 
oysters and parsley. 

Weissauer. — Procure from a pork store 273 pounds trimmings 
from fresh pork, wash and wipe dry, season with 1 tablespoonful 
seasoning salt. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add 1 
tablespoonful flour, stir a few minutes ; then add Yg pint boiling 
water, cook 2 minutes ; add 1 pint vinegar, Y2 tablespoonful sugar, 
2 onions with 3 cloves stuck into each one, 1 bay leaf, and 12 whole 
peppers, cook a few minutes ; then add the meat, cover and cook 
till tender. When ready to serve lay the meat on a warm dish and 
strain the sauce over it. 

Roasted Loin of Pork. — Select a loin of pork from a young 
pig with the rind ; score the rind across Ys of an inch apart, season 
with 1 tablespoonful salt and Y2 teaspoonful pepper, lay the pork 
in a roasting pan, plax3e it in a medium-hot oven, roast till light 
brown, basting occasionally with its own gravy, then add Ys cupful 
boiling water, continue to roast and baste till nearly done, then 
turn the meat over, so the rind lays in the gravy, roast 10 minutes, 
then turn it again so the rind is on top, let it remain 5 minutes 
longer in the oven, then transfer the meat to a warm dish, remove 
the fat from gravy, mix 1 teaspoonful cornstarch with a little cold 
water, add it to the gravy, stir a few minutes over the fire, add 
sufficient boiling water to make a creamy sauce, strain and serve 
with the meat. Serve boiled potatoes, sweet potatoes, and apple 
sauce with this dish, or red cabbage a I'allemande, sauerkraut, or 
creamed Russian turnips, or either of the 2 following sauces. 

Apple Sauce a l'Anglaise. — Peel and cut into quarters 6 



334 MEATS. 

greening apples, place in a saucepan, add Ys cupful water and a 
pinch of salt, cover and cook tender; add 1 tablespoonful sugar 
and rub the apples through a sieve into a clean saucepan ; add 3 
tablespoonf uls fresh grated horseradish, cook 4 minutes ; then add 
1 gill of orange juice, and serve with roast pork or pork chops. 

Apple Cream Sauce. — Peel and cut 6 greening apples into 
quarters and place in a saucepan ; add 1 gill of water, cover and 
cook till tender ; add lYg tablespoonful sugar, and rub through 
a sieve ; add 3 tablespoonf uls fresh grated horseradish, return the 
sauce in saucepan to the fire, cook 4 minutes ; remove and add 1 
cupful whipped cream. 

Fresh Ham a la Fran^aise. — Choose a small leg of pork, re- 
move the upper skin, rub it all over with pepper and salt, put into 
a large bowl or jar with 7g bottle white wine, Ya cupful fine salad 
oil, and 6 sage leaves ; let lay for 3 days and turn each day. When 
the pork is to be cooked take out, hook on to a spit, place before a 
bright fire, baste freely with the marinade in which the meat lay, 
and roast till done, which will take from 3 to 4 hours ; or put the 
meat into a baking pan with the marinade and roast till tender, and 
finish as in foregoing recijae. When done lay the meat on a hot 
dish ; remove the fat from the gravy, mix 1 teaspoonful cornstarch 
with a little cold water, add to the gravy, stir and cook on top the 
stove 3 minutes ; add sufficient broth to make a creamy sauce, boil 
3 minutes ; then strain and serve with the ham. 

Fresh Ham^ Potted. — Select a leg of 7 pounds from a young 
pig, wipe it off with a damp cloth ; rub 1 tablespoonful salt, and Ys 
teaspoonful pepper all over the ham, let it lay 1 hour. Place a sauce- 
pan large enough to receive the meat, with 4 ounces fine-cut larding 
pork over the fire, let fry light brown ; then add 2 ounces butter 
and the ham, let cook until it has obtained a light brown all around, 
turning frequently; then add Ys pi'it of boiling water, 1 whole 
onion with 2 cloves stuck in it, and a few slices of carrots, cover and 
cook about 2Y2 hours, till tender (if the gravy should get too brown, 



MEATS. 335 

add more water, but a little at a time). Shortly before serving 
lay the ham on to a warm dish, remove the fat from gravy, mix 
1 tablespoonful cornstarch with Yg cup cold water, add it to the 
gravy, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add suflBcient boiling water to 
make a creamy sauce, cook 3 minutes ; then strain through a fine 
sieve and serve. A loin or shoulder of pork may be cooked in the 
same way. 

Fresh Ham^ Roasted. — Select a fresh ham with a thin rind, 
which indicates that the ham is of a young pig. Score the rind 
Y4 inch apart, season with 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pep- 
per. Place the ham in a roasting pan in a medium-hot oven, roast 
until light brown, basting often with its own gravy ; then add Yg 
pint of boiling water, 2 slices of carrot, 1 onion with 2 cloves stuck 
in, roast and baste frequently till nearly done (allowing 20 minutes 
to a pound) ; turn the ham over with the rind side downward (if 
the gravy should cook away too much add more water, but a little 
at a time), roast 10 minutes ; turn the rind side up and let re- 
main 5 minutes longer in the oven. Transfer the ham to a hot 
dish ; remove the fat from the gravy, mix Ya tablespoonful corn- 
starch with little cold water, add it to the gravy, stir and cook a few 
minutes ; add sufficient boiling water or broth to make a creamy 
sauce ; strain and serve with the meat. Serve with stewed prunes 
and Hanovarian pudding. 

Hanovarian Puddixg.— Sift 2 cups prepared flour into a 
bowl, add 2 ounces butter, rub the butter fine in the flour ; mix 2 
eggs with Y2 pint milk, add it to the flour ; add 2 tablespoonfuls 
sugar, the grated rind of Ys lemon, mix all into a thick batter ; then 
add 1 cupful seedless raisins. Butter a pudding form, dust with 
bread crumbs, pour in the batter, close the form, and boil IY2 hour. 
When done turn the pudding on to a dish and serve with the meat. 
Or the ham may be served with mashed potatoes and turnips, or 
apple sauce, plain boiled potatoes, creamed cabbage, red cabbage, or 
sauerkraut. 



336 MEATS. 

Fresh Ham, Stuffed.— Choose a leg of fresh pork of 6 or 7 
pounds in weight, remove the bone and stuff the leg with sausage 
forcemeat, bread filling, or apple dressing ; sew up, score the skin 
across in narrow strips about V4 inch apart, rub all over with salt 
and pepper. Place the ham in a roasting pan, and roast in a medium- 
hot oven till it begins to brown ; then add Yg pint boiling water, 
roasting and basting frequently till done, which will take about 272 
hours. Shortly before serving lay the ham on a warm dish ; re- 
move the fat from gravy, mix Yg tablespoonful cornstarch with a little 
cold water, add it to the gravy, stir for a few minutes over the fire ; 
add sufficient boiling water to make a creamy sauce ; strain and 
serve with the ham. Some stick a few cloves in the ham, and 
others sprinkle a little powdered sage over ; but most people like it 
cooked plain. 

Fresh Ham a la Mariniere. — Wash a small leg of pork in 
cold water, lay it in a large stone jar. Boil 1 quart vinegar with 1 
pint water, 1 tablespoonful whole pepper, the same of salt and 
sugar, 3 bay leaves, Vg dozen cloves, 2 large onions cut into slices, 
and a bouquet. After 2 minutes' boiling set it off, and when cold 
pour it over the ham, let remain for 3 or 4 days, and turn each day. 
When to be prepared for cooking take it out, place in a large baking 
pan with the marinade in which the meat lay, and roast in a hot 
oven fully 3 hours, till done; basting should not be neglected. 
When the ham is done lay on a warm dish ; remove the fat from 
gravy, mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch with Yg cup cold water, add 
it to the gravy, stir and cook 2 minutes on top the stove (if too 
thick add a little boiling water), strain and serve. 

Corned Ham, Boiled. — Choose a small plump ham which has 
been 1 week in the brine, let it lay 3 or 4 hours in cold water ; 
place in a kettle, cover with fresh cold water, bring quickly to a 
boil ; then let simmer slowly till done. (Allow 2Y2 hours after the 
water boils for a leg of 8 pounds.) Carrots, turnips, or parsnips 
may be boiled with the pork. In serving, some of the vegetables 



MEATS. 337 

sltould be laid around the ham as a garnish. Sauerkraut boiled 
separately is a nice accompaniment to this dish ; also cauliflower or 
creamed cabbage may be served with it. 

Pork Chops, Fried. — Choose 6 chops from the loin, have 
them cut thin ; trim neatly, season with 1 even tablespoonf ul sea- 
soning salt, dust with flour, beat 1 egg until light, dip each chop in 
the egg^ then cover with fine bread crumbs. When all are prepared 
in this way, place a frying pan with 1 tablespoonful lard over the 
fire ; as soon as hot put in the chops, fry light brown on both sides 
and well done ; transfer the chops to a hot dish and serve with 
boiled, fried, or mashed potatoes. Apples cut into thick slices, then 
fried in the pork gravy, and laid around the dish or on top the 
chops as a garnish, is an improvement to this dish. If these chops 
are served for dinner, creamed string beans and mashed potatoes 
may be served with them. Pork chops may be fried without the 
egg and bread crumbs, also a little powdered sage may be sprinkled 
over if liked. 

Pork Chops, Broiled.— Cut 6 chops from a delicate loin of 
pork, trim nicely, brush over with a little melted butter ; lay the 
chops on a hot broiler, and broil from 10 to 12 minutes, till done. 
In the meantime stir 1 ounce butter to a cream, add 1 teaspoonful 
seasoning salt, mix well together; lay the chops on a hot dish, 
spread over the butter on both sides, and serve with baked or fried 
potatoes. 

Shoulder of Fresh Pork, Roasted.— Prepare and roast the 
same as fresh ham. The bone may be removed and stuffed the 
same as fresh ham. 

Pork Potpie.— Take 2 pounds of fresh pork off the shin, crack 
the bones, and cut the meat into 2-inch-sized pieces ; pare 6 medium- 
sized potatoes, and cut each one into 2 pieces ; cut 2 onions into 
slices. Prepare a crust of Yg pound of lard, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 
pound flour, and 1 cup cold water ; cover the bottom of a large 
saucepan with a layer of the meat, then a layer of potatoes, season 



338 MEATS. 

with salt and pepper, add some of the onions and a small piece of 
butter ; lay over this 4 pieces of crust the size of a chicken egg ; 
put in the remaining meat, potatoes, onions, seasoning, and a little 
butter, put over a layer of crust, with an opening in the center. 
One hour before serving, pour sufficient boiling water into saucepan 
to cover the pie ; close it tightly and boil 1 hour. When ready to 
serve, remove the upper crust carefully, lay it as a border on an 
oblong dish, and put the meat and potatoes in the center. 

Pork Stew. — Any part of the pig will do for this; cut the 
meat into pieces lYg inch square, or if pig's feet are used, crack the 
bones in 3 or 4 places ; put into a saucepan with suflficient boiling 
water to cover, add 1 or 2 onions, the necessary salt, and stew till 
done. Half an hour before serving, add some potatoes cut into 
quarters, and 6 minutes before serving drop some small dumplings 
into the stew prepared of 1 cup prepared flour, 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful 
butter, and mixed with water to a stiff dough (this will make 9 
dumplings) ; lastly, add some fine-chopped parsley, but do not allow 
the stew to boil with the parsley. Serve on a warm dish. Pork 
stew is an economical dish, and very nice if not too fat. Lean salt 
pork may be taken in place of fresh, but it should then be placed 
over the fire with cold water, and if too salty, the first water, after 
having boiled a few minutes, should be drained off and the meat 
covered again with fresh water. 

Pork Stew with Sweet Potatoes.— Procure 2V2 pounds of 
fresh pork off the loin, cut it into 2-inch pieces, wash in cold 
water, place in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water ; 
add 1 tablespoonful salt, Yg teaspoonful white pepper, and 3 medium- 
sized onions, cover and cook 40 minutes ; then add 4 medium-sized 
sweet potatoes, previously peeled and cut in half lengthwise. 
Shortly before serving, melt Yg tablespoonful butter in a small sauce- 
pan, add Ys tablespoonful flour, stir and cook a few minutes ; then add 
it to the stew, cook for a few minutes longer. Serve on an oblong 
dish, laying the potatoes in a circle around it. 



MEATS. 339 

Sausages, Fried. — Put 2 pounds sausages in a saucepan, cover 
with boiling water, let stand 1 minute only ; then remove and wipe 
dry. Place a frying pan with 1 tablespoonful butter or lard over 
the fire ; as soon as hot put in the sausages, fry light brown on both 
sides, serve on a warm dish. Another way is to roll the sausages in 
flour, dip into beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, fry in hot fat to a 
fine golden color, and serve. 

Frankfurter Sausages. — Put the sausages in a saucepan of 
boiling water, draw the saucepan to side of stove, and let them re- 
main 10 minutes without boiling ; then serve. 

Larded Pork Tenderloin, Roasted. — Select 3 nice large pork 
tenderloins, wash and wipe them dry, lard each with 2 rows of fine 
strips of larding pork, season with 1 teaspoonful salt, % teaspoonful 
pepper. Place in a roasting pan, add 1 onion cut into slices and 1 
small sliced carrot, and pour 1 tablespoonful melted butter over 
each tenderloin. Place the pan in a hot oven to roast, baste well 
with their own gravy ; as soon as they begin to brown, add a little 
boiling water to keep them from burning, roasting and basting often 
till done, which will take about 45 minutes. When done, lay the 
tenderloins on a warm dish ; add Yg tablespoonful cornstarch dis- 
solved in 1 gill of cold water to the gravy, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 
sufficient boiling water to make a creamy sauce, cook a few minutes 
longer, then strain through a fine sieve. Pour a little of the sauce 
over the tenderloins, and serve the remainder in a sauce bowl. Gar- 
nish the tenderloins with a border of red cabbage a I'allemande and 
potatoes tortouia, or plain boiled potatoes. 

Tenderloin a la Jardiniere. — Prepare and roast 3 tender- 
loins as in foregoing recipe. Cut 2 medium-sized well-cleaned 
carrots into slices, lay 4 slices over one another, and cut them into 
fine strips like straws ; place these in a saucepan, cover with boiling 
water, add Ys tablespoonful sugar ; place the saucepan over the fire, 
and cook till tender and nearly dry. Open a can of French peas, 
drain in a colander, and rinse with cold water ; place them in a sauce- 



340 MEATS. 

pan over the fire, barely covered with boiling water, add 1 teaspoon- 
ful sugar, and cook 10 minutes ; then add them to the carrots, add 
1 even teaspoonful salt, cook 3 minutes. Mix 1 tablespoonful butter 
with 1 teaspoonful cornstarch, add it to the peas and carrots, cook 
and stir 3 minutes ; then add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley ; 
instantly remove from the fire, lay the tenderloins on a warm dish, 
and arrange the vegetables in a circle around the dish. Or arrange 
in clusters around the dish 1 pint of cooked carrot balls, 1 pint of 
cooked Parisienne potatoes, Yg pint small cooked white onions, and 
Y2 pint of cooked green peas. 

Tenderloin a la Mariniere. — Lard 3 large pork tenderloins 
and season them with Yg tablespoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, 
place in a covered dish with 1 pint white wine, Y2 bay leaf, 1 onion 
with 2 cloves stuck into it, and 6 whole peppers; cover and let stand 
several hours. One hour before serving, take the tenderloins out and 
wipe them dry, lay in a roasting pan, pour over 1 ounce melted 
butter. Place the pan in a hot oven to roast till they begin to brown, 
basting with their own gravy ; then add 1 cupful of the wine in which 
the tenderloins lay, also the onions and spice, and continue to roast 
and baste frequently until done (if the gravy browns too much add 
more of the wine). When done lay the tenderloins on a hot dish 
and garnish with a border of cooked sauerkraut and plain boiled 
potatoes, or with red cabbage, carrot, turnip, potato balls, and small 
glazed white onions. 

Tenderloin a la Tiennoise. — Procure 2 pounds short pork 
tenderloins, wash, dry, and lard them, season with 1 tablespoonful 
salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper ; put in a covered dish with 2 onions cut 
into slices, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 bay leaf, and pour over 1 cupful 
white wine, cover and let stand 2 hours. One hour before serving, 
lay them in a roasting pan, pour over a little melted butter, add the 
wine in which the tenderloins lay, a few of the onion slices, and a 
small carrot ; place the pan in a hot oven, baste frequently, and 
roast till tender. When done, transfer the tenderloin to a hot dish, 



MEATS. 341 

remove the fat from gravy, mix Yg tablespoonful cornstarcli with Ys 
gill of cold water, add it to the gravy, cook 3 minutes on top of 
stove ; add sufficient boiling water to make a creamy sauce. Then 
strain, add 6 fine-chopped boiled chestnuts and a little beef extract, 
pour some of the gravy over the tenderloins, and serve the remain- 
der in a sauce bowl. 

Tenderloin Farci. — Split the pork tenderloins on one side, 
lay open on a board, season with salt and pepper, and cover 
with forcemeat ; lay them together, shape again into their natural 
form, and fasten with small wooden skewers. Put in a baking 
pan with some butter, and roast in the oven till done, basting first 
with the butter, then adding by degrees a little water. When ready 
to be served, put the tenderloins on a heated dish, remove the 
skewers, add a little more boiling water to the gravy, and thicken it 
with 1 teaspoonful cornstarch, previously dissolved in Y2 giU of cold 
water, cook 3 minutes ; then strain, and serve with the meat. Serve 
with boiled potatoes, creamed turnips, and apple sauce. 

Tenderloin, Fried. — Split the tenderloins, season with salt and 
pepper, dip them in beaten egg and fine bread crumbs, and fry in 
half butter and half lard to a nice brown color. The frying should 
be done slowly and the pan part of the time covered, for they 
should be well done, but not dried. Tenderloins may also be fried 
plain without eggs or bread ; they are nice for breakfast with pota- 
toes k la creme and hot corn bread. 

Tenderloin, Broiled.— Split the tenderloins and season with 
salt and pepper, dip first into melted butter, then into fine bread 
crumbs ; roll each piece separately in a piece of white buttered 
paper, bend the edges together, and broil them over a slow fire, first 
on one side, then on the other, and cover the gridiron with a tin pan 
while broiling (time for cooking, about 20 minutes). "When done 
remove the paper, lay the tenderloins on a warm dish and pour a 
little melted butter over. Serve with tomato sauce and potato 
puree. Or lay the tenderloins on a dish, and sprinkle salt and 



342 MEATS. 

pepper, fine-minced onion, and fine-minced parsley all over them, 
and j)our over some fine salad oil, letting them remain 1 hour or 
more. A half hour before serving roll them in buttered paper, and 
broil as above. 

Short Pork Tenderloin.— Procure from the packing house 
2Y2 pounds of short pork tenderloins, wash and wipe dry, season 
with salt and pepper. Place a saucepan with 2 ounces fine-cut lard- 
ing pork over the fire, and fry light brown, add 1 ounce butter and 
the tenderloins, turning often till light brown ; then add Y2 pint of 
boiling water, 1 onion, and 1 small carrot, cover and cook about 
1 hour, till done. Shortly before serving, lay the tenderloins on a 
hot dish, remove the fat from gravy, mix Yg tablespoonful corn- 
starch with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the gravy, cook 3 min- 
utes ; add sufficient boiling water to make a creamy sauce, strain, 
and serve with the tenderloin. Stewed peas and carrots with boiled 
or mashed potatoes may be served with this dish. 

Spare Ribs, Filled and Baked.— Take 2 long pieces of spare 
ribs, wash and wipe them dry ; season inside and outside Avith 1 table- 
spoonful salt, cover 1 piece with a dressing described below, lay the 
other over the dressing and sew together. Lay in a roasting pan, 
pour over 2 ounces melted butter, place in a hot oven, roast until 
light brown, basting the meat well with its own gravy ; then add 1 
cupful boiling water, roasting and basting about IY2 hour till done. 
When done lay the ribs on a warm dish, take out the threads ; re- 
move the fat from gravy, mix Y2 tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 
gill of cold water, add it to the gravy, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 
sufficient boiling water to make a creamy sauce, then strain and 
serve. 

Apple Dressing. — Pare and quarter 6 large greening apples, 
remove the core, and place the apples in a saucepan over the fire, 
add 1 ounce butter, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 cupful raisins, 1 table- 
spoonful apple or currant jelly, cook 8 minutes over the fire ; shake 
the saucepan, then remove, and when cold add 1 cupful fresh grated 



MEATS. 343 

bread crumbs and 1 egg ; use as directed. (In place of tbis dress- 
ing, a forcemeat or bread dressing may be used.) 

Spare Ribs with Sauerkraut. — Procure 3 pounds fresb spare 
ribs and wash them in cold water. Put 3 pints of sauerkraut in a 
saucepan, lay the spare ribs on top of the kraut, cover all with boil- 
ing water ; place the saucepan over the fire, and cook slowly till 
done, which will take IY2 hour. Shortly before serving, lay the 
spare ribs on a warm dish, and add to the kraut 1 large grated raw 
potato, previously peeled and washed, cook 10 minutes ; then serve 
with mashed potatoes. 

Pigs' Tails with Sauerkraut. — Cooked the same as with 
spare ribs. 

Potted Spare Ribs. — Take 3 pounds fresh spare ribs, wash 
and wipe dry ; then season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even 
teaspoonful pepper. Place a saucepan with Yg tablespoonful lard 
and Ya tablespoonful butter over the fire, put in the meat, and cook 
till the spare ribs begin to brown, turning often ; add Ys cupful 
boiling water, cover and cook till done ; if the water boils away, add 
more water (they require about 1 hour's cooking). When done 
transfer the ribs to a hot dish ; remove the fat from gravy, mix Ya 
tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the 
gravy, stir and cook 2 minutes, then add sufficient boiling water to 
make 1 pint of sauce ; strain and serve with the meat. Serve with 
plain boiled potatoes, sweet potatoes, and apple sauce. 

Pig's Tongue a la Jardiniere. — Place 3 well-washed fresh 
pig's tongues in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 1 table- 
spoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, 2 onions, a small carrot, 
and a bouquet, cover and boil till tender ; take out the tongues, free 
them from the skin, and lay on a hot dish, garnishing with 1 pint 
cooked green peas and 1 pint of cooked carrot balls ; sprinkle a 
little fine-chopped parsley over and serve. 

Pig's Tongue RagOilt.— Prepared the same as calf's tongue 
ragout. (See Calf's Tongue.) 



344 MEATS. 

Pickled Pig's Tongue. — Place 6 fresh well-washed pigs' 
tongues in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 2 even table- 
spoonfuls salt, 1 even tablespoonful pepper, 2 onions, and a bouquet, 
boil until tender ; then take them out, remove the skin, trim neatly, 
and lay in a stone jar. Place a saucepan with 1 quart vinegar and 

1 pint water over the fire, add 1 tablespoonful sugar, 12 whole 
peppers, 6 cloves, and 2 bay leaves, boil a few minutes; add 2 sliced 
onions to the tongue, pour the vinegar over, cover and set in a cool 
place. In serving cut the tongue lengthwise into thin slices. If 
salted tongues are to be used, soak them over night in cold water, 
changing the water twice during that time, and omitting the salt in 
boiling ; otherwise treat the same as in foregoing recipe. 

Pigs' Feet, Filled. — After the feet have been well cleaned, 
split them in two, and tie together again with tape. Boil them 
slowly in half water and vinegar, with a small bunch of thyme, some 
onions, a little piece of garlic, and some salt. When done (which 
will be in about 3 hours) take them out, and when cooled off a 
little, remove the tape, taking out the bones. Lay the bunches of 
meat on to a clean cloth, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cover 
with forcemeat (see Sausage Forcemeat) ; shape again into their 
natural form, brush over with beaten egg, and sprinkle with fine 
bread crumbs. Fry in half lard and half butter to a fine brown color ; 
or, in place of egg, dip them into melted butter, sprinkle with 
bread crumbs, and broil on a hot broiler. Spare ribs may be dressed 
in the same way. 

Pigs' Feet, Pickled. — Put 12 well-cleaned pigs' feet in a kettle 
covered with water, allowing V/2 tablespoonful salt to 1 gallon of 
water, boil until tender. Put them in a stone jar while hot, and 
lay some slices of onion between them ; then place a saucepan with 

2 quarts of vinegar over the fire, add 1 quart water, 2 tablespoonfuls 
sugar, 1 tablespoonful whole peppers, Yz dozen cloves, and 2 bay 
leaves, let this boil up, and pour it while hot over the feet. Pigs' 
feet prepared in this way may be served cold, or, split in two, rolled 



MEATS. 345 

in Indian meal and fried in hot fat ; they may also be dipped into 
beaten egg and fine bread crumbs and then fried. 

Pigs' Feet in Jelly. — Clean and wash the feet well, put them 
over the fire with boiling salt water, boil % hour ; take out and rinse 
with cold water, pouring away the water in which they were boiled, 
and return the feet to same kettle again ; cover with half vinegar 
and half water, adding to 1 gallon of liquor, 1 tablespoonful salt, 2 of 
sugar, 1 of whole peppers, 2 bay leaves, 1 teaspoonful whole cloves, 
3 blades of mace, 1 teaspoonful thyme tied in a cloth, and 4 large 
onions cut into pieces. Boil until tender, then take them out, put 
in a stone jar, strain the liquor through a flannel jelly bag, and pour 
it hot over the feet ; when cold tie the jars up and set in a cool, dry 
place. Pigs' feet prepared in this way are to be served cold for 
supper or lunch. 

Pig's Head, Filled. — Cut a well-cleaned pig's head open on 
the under side, remove the bones without tearing the skin, spread 
it out on the table, season it inside and outside with salt and pep- 
per, and fill it with veal or sausage forcemeat (see Foecemeat) ; 
put in first a layer of forcemeat, lay on this some strips of beef 
tongue and of larding pork, some slices of truffles, and mushrooms 
(if handy), some pieces of roasted pork or veal, and some pickles 
cut into strips ; cover with forcemeat, and again lay the tongue and 
other ingredients over, and so on, until the head is filled. Sew it 
up, and cover the opening with a piece of skin cut from fresh pork, 
sewing it all around with thread. Wrap the head in a cloth, and bind 
or sew it firmly, then put into a large kettle with 4 calf's feet and 
the cracked bones from the head ; cover with cold water, add salt, 
2 onions, 2 bay leaves, a bunch of thyme, V2 dozen cloves, 1 dozen 
peppers, and 1 quart vinegar, and boil 3 hours. Eemove from fire, 
letting it remain in the liquor till cold ; then take the head out, remove 
the cloth and threads, take off the skin from the opening of the 
neck, wipe it dry, and cut 1 slice from the neck to show the force- 
meat. Let the liquor get cold, remove the fat, and put over the fire 



346 MEATS. 

again, adding the beaten whites of 3 eggs mixed with the juice of 1 
lemon, and then taste ; if not sour enough, add more vinegar and boil 
5 minutes ; draw it from the fire, let it stand for 5 minutes ; then 
strain through a napkin into a mold, and set aside to cool. When 
the head is to be served, place it on a large dish and garnish with 
the jelly and parsley. 

Spare Ribs, Salted. — Rub the spare ribs all over with salt 
and let them lay for 3 or 4 days, turning them once or twice during 
that time. When they are to be dressed, wash well in cold water, 
put over the fire in a saucepan covered with cold water, boil slowly 
till done, which will take about IY2 hour. Any kind of vegetables 
may be boiled with them. 

Head-clieese. — Split a small pig's head into two and wash it 
in cold water. Place the head with 2 well-cleaned pig's feet in a 
kettle over the fire, cover with cold water, add 1 tablespoonful salt, 
and as soon as it begins to boil add 3 onions, 1 carrot, a large bou- 
quet, and 1 tablespoonful whole peppers, cover, and cook till the 
meat separates easily from the bone. When done take out the head 
and feet, remove the meat from the bones and chop it fine, season- 
ing with salt and pepper to taste. Eemove every particle of fat 
from the broth, strain it into a clean saucepan, add the meat; 
place the saucepan over the fire, boil, while stirring constantly, 5 
minutes, then pour it into molds or tin pans. When cold, turn 
the head-cheese out of the form, cut in slices, and serve; or dip 
the slices in egg and bread crumbs, and fry light brown. If the 
head-cheese is to be kept for a long time put it into a large stone 
jar, and cover with vinegar. (If the quantity is too large take Y2 
a pig's head, 1 pig's foot, and use half of all the ingredients.) 

Head-clieese a I'Allemande. — Clean and wash a small pig's 
head, place it in a kettle with 2 calf's or pig's feet, cover with cold 
water, add 1 tablespoonful salt. Place the kettle over the fire, and 
as soon as it boils add 3 onions, with 3 cloves stuck into each one, 
1 sliced carrot, 1 white turnip, a large bouquet, and 12 whole pep- 



MEATS. 347 

pers, cover, and cook till the meat separates from the bone ; then 
take out the head and feet, remove all the meat and cut it into 
small square pieces, and season them with salt and pepper to taste. 
Strain the broth through a napkin, remove every particle of fat, 
return the broth in saucepan to the fire, reduce it by boiling to 3 
pints, add vinegar enough to give it a nice sour taste. Beat the 
whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth, add the juice of 1 lemon and Yg 
gill of cold water, add it to the above broth, cook 5 minutes ; then 
draw it to side of stove, letting it stand 5 minutes. Lay -a napkin 
in a sieve, set the sieve over a bowl, place the bowl in a vessel of hot 
water, then pour the jelly in the napkin. When the jelly has been 
strained in this way set aside to cool. Have ready a mold, pour in 
some jelly to cover the bottom, let it stand till cold ; then lay in 
the bottom some slices of lemon freed from the pits and cut into 
quarters, some green pickles and beets cut into fancy shapes ; over 
this lay the meat, pour over the jelly, and set aside in a cool place. 
Serve cold, cut into slices, with remoulade sauce. 

Scrapple. — Place a well-cleaned small pig's h,ead in a kettle 
over the fire, add 1 pig's heartlets, cover with cold water, and as 
soon as it boils add 3 sliced onions and 1 carrot; add 1 heaping 
tablespoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful whole peppers, and a bouquet, 
cover and boil till tender. Place at the same time 1 pound well- 
washed barley in a saucepan over the fire, cover with cold water, and 
when boiling add some of the pig's-head broth, and boil till tender. 
When all is done, take out the meat and heartlets, cut some of the 
fat off from the pig's head, and set it aside to use for other pur- 
poses. Eemove the meat from the bones, chop the meat and the 
heartlets fine and mix with the barley ; season with salt, pepj^er, and 
thyme ; put the mixture into a long dish and set in a cool place. 
Scrapple may be eaten cold, cut in slices ; but it is mostly cut in 
slices and fried in butter, lard, or drippings ; the slices may also be 
dipped into beaten egg, covered with bread crumbs, and fried light 
brown on both sides. 
23 



348 MEATS. 

Lard. — Most of the lard now is adulterated with potato flour, 
water, salts, carbonate of soda, and caustic lime. We seldom get it 
pure ; unless able to pay a high price to a reliable party or dealer it 
is better to buy the leaf lard and try it out. Strip off the skin and 
cut it into small pieces ; put it in a large saucepan over a moderate 
fire, letting simmer slowly ; stir from time to time until it is melted. 
If lard is to be kept for any length of time it must cook until done 
(this may be known by holding a ladle with boiling lard up a little 
above the saucepan ; if the lard continues boiling in the ladle it is 
done, if not it must cook a little longer ; but great care must be 
taken that the lard does not get a dark color ; it should be perfectly 
white). Strain it into small jars holding from 3 to 5 pounds; 
when cold, tie either paper or bladder over the jars, and set on the 
cellar floor or in a cool place ; it will keep for several months. The 
scraps should by no means be thrown away ; they can be minced fine 
and used as lard in pie crust. 

Pork to Pickle. — One hundred pounds of meat, 10 pounds of 
salt, Y4 pound saltpeter, 5 pounds sugar, 9 gallons of water. Mix 
saltpeter, 2 pounds sugar, and 2 pounds salt together ; rub the meat 
all over with it and let it lay on a table or board in the cellar for 24 
hours. Then pack it in a barrel, boil the water with the remaining 
salt and sugar until clear, and when cold pour it over the meat in 
the barrel. 

COLD PORK. 
How to utilize. 

Pork Croquettes. — Chop cold roasted or fried fresh pork very 
fine ; for 12 croquettes take 1 tablespoonful butter and 1 medium- 
sized fine-chopped onion ; place the butter and onion in a small 
saucepan over the fire, and cook 5 minutes without browning ; then 
add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add Yg 
pint white broth or boiling water with a little beef extract, add 1 
even teaspoonful salt, Yg even teaspoonf ul white pepper, Y2 teaspoon- 
ful dry English mustard, and 1 pint fine-chopped meat ; stir and 



MEATS. 349 

cook 10 minutes ; then add the yolks of 3 eggs and 1 tablespoonful 
fine-chopped parsley ; turn the contents of saucepan on a flat dish 
or pan, set it in a cool place. When cold form the mixture into 12 
cork-shaped croquettes, dip in beaten egg, roll in fresh-grated bread 
crumbs, and fry in hot fat to a delicate brown. Serve with tomato, 
bechamel, or Tartar sauce. 

Minced Pork. — Chop fresh cooked pork very fine, and then 
measure it. Take for 1 pint of meat Yg tablespoonful butter, and 
Ya tablespoonful cornstarch. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, 
add the cornstarch, stir and cook a few minutes ; then add 1 cup of 
milk, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ys e^eii teaspoonful pepper, stir and 
boil 2 minutes ; the add then meat, cook 5 minutes ; add lastly 1 
tablespoonful lemon juice. Serve the meat on a hot dish, sprinkle 
over 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley ; arrange a border of mashed 
potatoes, boiled rice, or nudles around it. It is also nice served on 
buttered toast with a poached egg on top of each piece. 

Corned Ham boiled with Chicken. — Procure a nice plump 
chicken SYa pounds in weight and a small corned ham of 6 
pounds. Wash and place the ham in a kettle over the fire ; cover 
with cold water. Clean, wash, and dry the chicken, season inside 
with 1 teaspoonful salt and a little pepper. Place Ys pound well- 
washed rice in a saucepan ; cover with cold water, boil 10 minutes ; 
drain and rinse off with fresh cold water. Place a saucepan with 1 
tablespoonful butter and 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onions over 
the fire, cook 5 minutes without browning; add the rice, season 
with Y2 teaspoonful salt and a little pepper, stir and cook 3 min- 
utes ; fill the chicken with the rice, sew it up ; as soon as the ham 
boils add the chicken and boil till tender ; serve with cooked vege- 
tables and cream sauce. If the onions are objected to they may be 
omitted. 

Sour Stew of Cold Roasted Pork. — Cut the remnants of 
fresh cold cooked pork into 1-inch pieces, then weigh ; for 2 
pounds take 2 medium-sized sliced onions, 1 tablespoonful butter ; 



350 MEATS. 

put the onions and butter in a saucepan over the fire, and cook 5 
minutes without browning; then add 1 teaspoonful salt, ^g tea- 
spoonful pepper, and 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 min- 
utes ; then add Yg pint of vinegar, 1 pint boiling water, 1 bay leaf, 
1 blade of mace, 12 whole peppers, and 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
boil 5 minutes ; add lastly the meat, cook slowly 20 minutes. Serve 
with farina dumplings, boiled nudles, or potato dumplings. 

Ham Sandwiches, Plain. — Have the bread cut into thin 
slices ; butter and lay some thin slices of cold ham between 2 slices 
of bread, and spread over the meat a little mustard. 

Ham Sandwiches of Biscuits. — Cut a soda biscuit in two 
and spread with butter ; chop cold boiled ham very fine, cover half 
of the biscuit with the chopped ham, place the other half over it so 
that the biscuit regains its original form, and serve for tea. Ham 
prepared thus will go a great way, and is much more convenient 
than when cut into slices. It is very nice for tea parties or picnics. 

Ham Hash. — Mix 1 pound of fine-chopped or ground ham 
with 2 pints fine-chopped cold boiled potatoes. Melt Yg tablespoon- 
ful butter in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, 
cook 5 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; 
then add 1 cupful milk or meat broth, stir 2 minutes ; season with 
Yi teaspoonful pepper, add the ham and the potatoes, stir and cook 
10 minutes ; then serve. 

Ham and Eggs. — Cut some thin slices of ham, taking care to 
have them of the same thickness in every part ; cut off the rind, 
and, if the ham should be too hard and salty, put it in a saucepan 
of boiling water, cover tightly, and let it remain 15 minutes (but do 
not allow to boil). When ready for frying, take it out and wipe 
dry. Place a frying pan over the fire with a little butter or lard ; 
when very hot put in the ham and fry quickly on both sides to a 
fine brown color. When done transfer to a heated dish, break the 
eggs into cups, slip them into the hot fat, and let them remain until 
the whites are delicately set ; and while they are frying ladle a little 



MEATS. 351 

of the fat over them. Take up one at a time with a pancake turner, 
drain them for a minute from their greasy moisture, trim them 
neatly, and lay carefully on the slices of ham. If boiled ham is 
used, cut it into thin slices, fry quickly for 2 minutes in butter, 
transfer to a hot dish, and lay on each slice a fried or poached egg. 

Remnants of Cold Ham, No. 1. — Mince any remnant of ham 
very fine ; place a frying pan over the fire with a piece of butter, 
and when melted put in the ham, stirring until thoroughly heated 
through. Take for each cupful of minced ham 2 or 3 well-beaten 
eggs, and put over the ham, stirring until the eggs are done, which 
will be in 2 minutes, then serve on a warm dish for breakfast, tea, 
or lunch. 

Remnants of Cold Ham, No. 2. — Chop remnants of boiled 
ham very fine ; add to 1 pint of fine-chopped ham 2 eggs, 2 table- 
spoonfuls bread crumbs, Y4 teaspoonful white pepper ; then cut 6 
thin slices from a small loaf of bread, dip them in milk, lay the 
slices over one another, let them stand 5 minutes. Beat up 2 eggs, 
dip each slice into the beaten egg, then in grated bread crumbs, and 
cover with the ham mixture. Melt Yg tablespoonf ul lard or drippings 
in a frying pan, add Yg tablespoonful butter, and when hot put in 
the slices, frying light brown on both sides ; then serve on a warm 
dish for breakfast, tea, or lunch. 

Cold Potted Ham. — Grind or chop fine some cold boiled ham, 
add to every pound 2 ounces butter, 4 fine-minced anchovies pre- 
viously soaked in cold water and freed from skin and bones, Yi 
teaspoonful white pepper, Y4 teaspoonful grated garlic ; mix all well 
together, and press the mixture into a small jar ; pour Y2 ounce 
melted butter over and keep in a cool place. This is very nice for 
sandwiches or for stuffing eggs. 

Cold Ham with Cream Sauce. — Chop remnants of cold ham 
fine, put it in a frying pan, and cover with milk ; add a piece of 
butter mixed with a little cornstarch, stir until it boils, then pour 
over buttered toast, and serve. 



352 MEATS. 

Ham Pie. — Cut 1% pound boiled ham and I'/g pound of cold 
roasted veal into small pieces. Prepare a forcemeat of Yg pound fine- 
chopped veal, Yg pound sausage meat, and Ys cup of fine-cut lard- 
ing pork, season with salt and pepper, a little thyme, and 1 grated 
onion ; also a few mushrooms stewed in butter, or truffles cut into 
slices, may be added. Line a deep pie dish with a rich crust, and 
cover the bottom with a layer of forcemeat, over this some of the 
ham and veal pieces, continuing until all is used up ; let the last 
layer be forcemeat ; sprinkle some fine-cut pork over it, and cover 
with crust. Make a slit crosswise in the center of the upper crust 
and bend the 4 corners backward, cut out 8 large leaves of paste 
and lay them around the edge of crust, baking 1 leaf separately, to 
cover the hole in the center, when the pie is done. Bake in a hot oven 
1 hour. In the meantime prepare a sauce : Put in a saucepan a 
small tablespoonful flour, mix with lYs cup cold water, add the 
yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful butter cut into pieces, beat up well. 
Place the pan over the fire, stir constantly until just to the boiling 
point, then remove and keep warm in a vessel of hot water. When 
the pie is done, put a funnel in the hole of top crust, pour the sauce 
into the pie, let it remain in the oven for a few minutes with the 
door open, then serve. This pie may be served hot or cold. 

Ham Pie with Macaroni. — Chop remnants of boiled ham 
fine, boil twice the quantity of macaroni in salted water, cut the 
boiled macaroni into 1-inch lengths. Place a saucepan over the fire 
with a piece of butter ; add the ham, the macaroni, 3 or 4 table- 
spoonfuls grated cheese, Y2 cup of milk or cream, and stir the whole 
well together. Make a rich pie crust, roll out twice as thick as for 
fruit pie for the top crust, and about the ordinary thickness for the 
lower. Line a pudding dish with the thinner crust and fill with dry 
peas ; butter the edges of dish, so that the upper crust may be lifted 
without breaking ; cover the mock pie with the thick crust, orna- 
ment the edge, and put it to bake in a hot oven. When done re- 
move the top crust, turn out the peas, put in the macaroni mixture, 
cover again with the crust, and serve. 



MEATS. 353 

Ham with Nudles. — Prepare nudles from 2 eggs (seeNuDLEs), 
cut them into strips Y4 inch wide, boil in salted water, and drain 
through colander ; mix them with 1 pound fine-minced boiled ham, 
1 cup cream or milk, 3 eggs, a small grated onion, and a little nut- 
meg. Put the mixture into a pie dish, lay small pieces of butter on 
top, and bake about Yg hour. 

Ham Pudding. — One quarter pound Italian macaroni boiled 
in salted water and cut into pieces, % pound fine-chopped boiled 
ham, 4 ounces grated Parmesan cheese, 3 ounces butter, the yolks 
and the whites of 6 eggs beaten separate'ly. Mix all the ingredients 
well together, add lastly the beaten whites. Eub a tin form inside 
with butter, sprinkle with bread crumbs, fill it with the ham mix- 
ture, cover the form, and boil the pudding IY2 hour. When done 
take off the cover, turn the pudding on to a warm plate, and serve 
with mushrooms, tomato or plain butter sauce. In place of ham, 
smoked beef or beef tongue may be used. 

Ham Omelette. — One cup of fine-minced cold ham, 6 egg 
yolks and whites beaten separately, 6 teaspoonfuls cornstarch, Yg 
pint of milk, Y4 teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, Y2 
teaspoonful baking powder. Mix the yolks, salt, and butter well 
together, by degrees add the milk and cornstarch, then add this 
slowly to the beaten whites. Place an omelette pan with 1 table- 
spoonful butter over the fire ; as soon as the butter is melted pour 
in half of the mixture ; bake until light brown on the under side, 
then place the pan for a few minutes in a hot oven. Sprinkle Y2 of 
the ham over the surface, slip a broad-bladed knife under one side 
of the omelette, and double in half, inclosing the meat. Then 
upset the frying pan on a hot dish, treat the remaining mixture the 
same way, and serve. 

Bacon, Fried. — Cut the bacon into thin slices, take off the 
rind, and pour boiling water over it, letting it remain 5 minutes ; 
then take it out and wipe it dry. Place a frying pan over the fire ; 
when hot put in the bacon, fry light brown on both sides, and serve. 



354 MEATS. 

Eggs may be fried in the bacon fat and put over the bacon. Calf's 
liver fried with bacon is also an excellent dish for breakfast. 

Bacon, Boiled. — After the bacon is well washed place it over 
the fire with cold water and let it boil slowly till done. When 
ready to serve remove it to a heated dish and serve with boiled vege- 
tables, or leave it in the liquor until cold. Serve cold cut in slices. 

Bacon, Broiled. — Prepare the bacon as for frying and broil it 
over a clear fire. 

Smoked Ham — How to boil. — Soak the ham over night. 
Next morning wash it in several waters, put it in a boiler, cover 
with cold water ; bring it slowly to a boil, then draw the boiler to 
side of stove, and let it simmer gently till done, which will take for 
a large ham from 3 to 4 hours. (To ascertain if done, test it with a 
fork or larding needle ; if it penetrates easily, it is done ; if not, 
the boiling must be continued.) When done remove the boiler 
from the fire and let the ham remain in the liquor until cold ; by 
this method the juice is kept in, and it will be found far superior to 
one taken out of the water hot. If the ham is smoked lightly and 
not very dry, it does not need to be soaked. Then take it out, re- 
move the skin and black and rusty parts, and carve in thin slices. 
When ham is served cold it should be carved in very thin slices, 
arranged neatly on a dish, garnished with parsley, and served with 
mustard. Hard-boiled eggs freed from the shells and cut into 
halves are often served with cold ham ; also potato salad, potatoes 
with parsley or butter sauce, string beans with cream sauce, or bean 
salad. Another nice way is to garnish the dish of ham with white 
and red aspic. 

Champagne Ham. — Prepare the ham as in foregoing recipe ; 
when done take it from the boiler, remove the skin, cut off all the 
black parts, and put it in a roasting pan with 1 quart champagne or 
white wine ; baste freely and roast the ham for Yg hour ; then 
brush over the top of ham with beaten egg and cover it Y4 of an 
inch thick with fine bread crumbs which have been previously 



MEATS. 355 

mixed with 1 tablespoonful of brown sugar. Baste the top a little 
first, and after the crust has formed stop basting. Eoast for Y2 hour 
longer and serve with boiled vegetables. The gravy should be freed 
from fat and reduced by boiling, then strained, and served with the 
meat. In place of champagne or wine, cider may be used. 

Uam in Burgundy. — Boil a well-cleaned and soaked ham for 
3 ^ours in water with 4 onions, 3 bay leaves, 2 tablespoonfuls whole 
pepper, Y2 dozen cloves, a bouquet, and 2 blades of mace. After 
that take it out, remove the skin, cut off all the black parts, and 
place it in a roasting pan. Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 
1 tablespoonful flour, stir, and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 cup bouillon, 
1 teaspoonful beef extract, 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar, and 1 
bottle Burgundy or red wine ; boil 5 minutes, then pour it over the 
ham, put it to roast in a hot oven, baste freely, and roast 1 hour. 
Twenty minutes before serving cover the top of ham with a mixture 
of fine bread crumbs, brown sugar, and a pinch of cloves. Baste 
the top a little at first until the bread has formed a crust, then 
stop basting. When done remove the ham to a dish, skim and 
strain the sauce, add 1 tablespoonful currant jelly, and serve with 
the ham. 

Ham with Cumberland Sauce. — Soak a smoked ham over 
night ; next morning wash and brush it with a stiff brush, cut off 
all the black parts, saw a small end of about 2 inches from the 
knuckle, and after the ham has been thoroughly cleaned and washed, 
wrap it tightly in a clean cloth and bind it firmly with a strong 
string. Place it in a boiler over the fire, cover with cold water, add 
3 onions, 6 cloves, a bouquet, and 2 bay leaves ; boil slowly from 3 
to 4 hours. When the ham is done take it from the boiler, remove 
the cloth, and take off the skin, except a round piece around the 
knuckle, which is cut out in small scallops ; cut also some of the fat 
off, then place it in a double roasting pan, not much larger than the 
ham ; add 1 cup strong bouillon (or dissolve 1 teaspoonful beef ex- 
tract in 1 cup boiling water), add 2 cups white wine, cover tightly 



356 MEATS. 

and stew slowly for Yg hour, basting frequently ; or jAace the pan in 
the oven. When done, transfer the ham to a warm dish, set it a 
few minutes in the front of oven, and brush it over with glaze. For 
the sauce : Take 1 bitter orange and one sweet orange, a small cup 
of currant jelly, V/2 cup claret, 3 pieces of lump sugar, and 2 tea- 
spoonfuls English mustard. Pare the bitter orange very thin, and 
boil the peel 15 minutes in water, take it out and cut as fine as pos- 
sible. Rub with the sugar the yellow skin from the sweet orange, 
squeeze half the juice from the oranges over the sugar, and pound 
it fine. Mix the jelly, mustard, and sugar together, so that the in- 
gredients are well blended, then add by degrees the wine, and lastly 
the orange peel ; serve with the ham. Cold boiled ham cut into 
thin slices arranged nicely on an oval-shaped dish, garnished with 
a border of fine-chopped aspic and some Cumberland sauce poured 
over the slices of ham, is a pretty dish for supper or lunch and one 
that is well worth the trouble to make. 

Ham, Broiled. — Have the ham cut into slices V2 inch thick, 
cut off the rind and place the slices on a hot broiler ; broil over a 
moderate fire on both sides light brown ; remove to a hot dish, 
spread a little butter over each slice, and serve. If the ham is very 
salty it is best to lay it in boiling water for 15 minutes, changing 
the water twice during that time, then wijDe it dry and broil the 
same way ; or the ham may be cut thin and broiled 3 minutes on 
each side ; but most people prefer the ham cut thick for broiling. 

Ham, Fried. — Cut thin slices from a nice smoked ham, trim it 
neatly, place a frying pan over the fire, with Yg tablespoonf ul butter ; 
when hot put in the ham, fry a few minutes on both sides. Re- 
move and lay the ham on a hot dish, add a little boiling water to the 
gravy, and pour it over. In case the ham is too salty, lay the slices 
for 10 minutes in boiling water, then remove, dry it on a towel. 
Fry the same as above. 



POULTRY. 

How to choose Poultry. — In choosing poultry the age of the 
bird is the principal thing to be attended too ; the best chickens are 
plump on the breast, fat on the back, with smooth yellow legs, ten- 
der skin, and the lower part of the breast bone soft and pliable. A 
young turkey is known by its short spur^, black and smooth legs. 
The age of a young duck may be ascertained by taking hold of the 
foot and tearing the skin between the toes ; if the skin tears, the 
duck is young ; if not, it is old. Geese may be known by taking 
the windpipe between 2 fingers and pressing it; if young, a low 
crackling sound will be heard ; also, if the thumb will easily press 
through the skin under the wing, the goose is young, otherwise old. 
All poultry should hang at least from 24 to 48 hours in a cool place 
after they are killed before cooking. 

How to kill Poultry. — The killing of chicken and turkey is 
done either by chopping off the head, by cutting the artery on the 
neck, or by cutting the throat with a sharp knife. After it is killed, 
hang it up by the feet, and as soon as the bleeding stops, pick off 
the feathers while yet warm ; then singe them either over burning 
alcohol, over a gaslight, or over burning paper. Geese and ducks 
are killed by taking the fowl under the left arm, holding the bill in 
the left hand, then stabbing it on top the head, having a sharp- 
pointed knife in the right hand ; holding the fowl in that position, 
letting the blood run into a vessel to which a little vinegar is added 
to keep it from clogging ; when the blood stops running, hold a red- 
hot iron for a minute on the place where it has been stabbed ; this 
is done to prevent any blood dripping on the feathers ; the feathers 

357 



358 POULTRY. 

are then carefully picked off, and the fowl singed and drawn. The 
feathers from geese, ducks, prairie hens, pigeons, and birds of all 
kinds are always picked off dry. Chickens are often scalded in 
boiling water ; the feathers can then easily be removed, but they 
are far inferior to the dry-picked chickens. 

Drawing Poultry. — Cut off the feet at the first joint, then 
the head and half the neck; next cut the skin on the back of the 
neck down to the back of the wing ; detach the skin from the neck, 
draw the skin down over the breast ; cut off the remainder of the 
neck close to the body ; remove the crop and windpipe ; break with 
the forefinger the ligaments that hold the internal organs to the 
breastbone ; then cut an opening below the breastbone down to 
the vent ; put the hand in the opening, carefully work the hand 
slowly around until the top of the breastbone is reached, and draw 
out all the organs at once ; close to the ribs will be found a soft 
pinky substance, called lungs or lights ; these should also be re- 
moved ; then cut out the vent and the oil bag on the tail ; care- 
fully examine if every particle of the organs, windpipe, and crop 
have been removed ; then wash it quickly inside and outside with cold 
water. Never let poultry lie in water, the washing should not take 
longer than 2 minutes. (Poultry when soaked in water loses its 
flavor and nourishment ; it should therefore not be allowed to lie in 
water at all.) Cut the gizzard open, remove the thick inside skin, 
and carefully remove the gall bag from the liver. 

Chicken a la Creole. — Select a young plump chicken 3 pounds 
in weight ; singe, draw, and wash it quickly in cold water ; then 
cut it into 10 pieces ; season with 1 even tablespoonf ul salt, and 1 
even teaspoonful pepper ; mix the chicken and seasoning well to- 
gether. Place the feet for 1 minute in boiling water; then take 
them out, remove the skin, and place them with the giblets and 
neck over the fire ; add Yg teaspoonful salt and 1 quart cold water ; 
as soon as it boils add 1 onion ; cover and cook 1 hour. Place a 
saucepan with 3 ounces fine-cut larding pork over the fire, cook till 



POULTRY. 359 

light brown ; then add 1 ounce butter and 3 tablespoonfuls fine-cut 
onions, cook 3 minutes without browning ; put in the chicken, 
cover and cook slowly 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Melt 1 
ounce butter in a small saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour ; cook 
and stir 3 minutes; then add 1 pint of the giblet broth, cook 3 
minutes ; strain, add it to the chicken, and boil till tender. Five 
minutes before serving add the juice of Yg lemon, boil 3 minutes ; 
add Ya cupful cream or 2 tablespoonfuls unsweetened condensed 
milk. In the meantime fry 6 small slices of bread in butter to a 
fine brown color; scald 6 tomatoes in boiling water, remove the 
skins, and cut each tomato in half ; take each half separately in the 
hand and squeeze it lightly, so as to press out the water ; then lay 
them in a baking pan ; pour 1 ounce melted butter over the toma- 
toes ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt and Y* teaspoonful pep- 
per, place the pan in a hot oven and bake 10 minutes, basting fre- 
quently with their own gravy. When the chicken is done arrange 
it nicely on a warm dish, lay the fried bread and tomatoes in a circle 
around the dish, and serve. 

Cliicken Saute. — Select a young chicken weighing from 2Y2 
to 3 pounds ; singe, draw, and wash it in cold water ; cut it into 8 
pieces. Put the feet for 1 minute into boiling water, then take them 
out and remove the skin ; place them with the neck and giblets in 
a saucepan over the fire ; cover with cold water ; add Y2 teaspoonful 
salt, and when it boils add a bouquet and 1 onion ; cover and cook 1 
hour ; then strain the broth. Season the chicken with 1 even table- 
spoonful salt and 1 even teaspoonful pepper. Melt 2 ounces but- 
ter in a saucepan, put in the chicken pieces ; cover, and cook over a 
moderate fire 20 minutes, turning the pieces frequently with a fork. 
Melt in a small saucepan Ys ounce butter, add Ys tablespoonful 
flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; then add Y2 pi^t of the above giblet 
broth and 1 gill of mushroom liquor ; boil 3 minutes and add it to 
the chicken ; add 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, cover and cook till 
done. Serve witli potato chateau and Brussels sprouts, or creamed 



360 POULTRY. 

Chicken a la Baltimore. — Procure a nice plump young chicken 
of 3 pounds, singe, draw, and wash it ; cut it into 8 pieces ; wipe them 
dry, and season with 1 even tablespoonful salt and 1 even teaspoon- 
f ul pepper ; rub the seasoning over each piece ; then dust them with 
flour; have 1 well-beaten egg in a soupplate, dip each piece of 
chicken into the beaten egg, and roll in fresh grated bread crumbs ; 
lay the chicken in a thickly buttered pan, pour over 1 ounce melted 
butter, cover with buttered paper ; place the pan in a medium-hot 
oven and bake 45 minutes, or until done. Put the chicken feet for 
1 minute into boiling water ; then take them out, remove the skin ; 
put the feet, neck, and giblets in a saucepan, cover with cold water ; 
add Y2 teaspoonful salt ; as soon as it boils add a small bouquet and 
1 small onion ; cover and cook 1 hour ; then strain the broth. Melt 

1 ounce butter in a saucepan ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, 
stir and cook 2 minutes ; then add % pint of the above-mentioned 
broth ; season with Yg even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful nutmeg ; 
boil 5 minutes; then draw the saucepan to side of stove; mix the 
yolks of 2 eggs with Ys cupful cream, and add it slowly to the 
sauce ; lastly, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice ; strain the sauce on to a 
hot dish, lay the chicken pieces over the sauce, and garnish with 
mock oysters, prepared as follows : Put Y2 pint of canned corn or 
fresh green corn cut from the cob in a bowl; add the yolks of 

2 eggs, Y4 teaspoonful salt, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, and the whites 
beaten to a stiff froth ; place a frying pan with Ys tablespoonful 
butter and the same of lard over the fire ; when hot, put with a 
spoon small portions from the corn mixture into the hot fat, in 
the shape of an oyster ; fry light brown on both sides ; then lay 
them in a circle around the dish of the chicken, with slices of 
broiled bacon, and serve with potato puree. 

Chicken Saute a I'Hongroise. — Singe, draw, and wash a 
young chicken SYs pounds in weight ; cut it into 8 pieces ; season 
with 1 even tablespoonful salt and 1 even teaspoonful pepper. Put 
the feet for 1 minute into boiling water, remove and free them 
from their skin and nails ; then place the feet, neck, and giblets in 



POULTRY. 361 

a saucepan, cover with cold water ; add Yg teaspoonful salt ; as soon 
as it boils add 1 medium-sized onion and a small bouquet ; cover 
and cook 1 hour ; strain the broth. Place a saucepan with lYg 
ounces butter over the fire ; add 1 fine-minced onion, cook 5 min- 
utes without browning ; then add the chicken ; cover and cook 
gently 30 minutes ; turn it often with a fork. Melt in a small 
saucepan 1 tablespoonful butter ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, 
stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 pint of the giblet broth, cook 5 
minutes ; then add the sauce to the chicken, continue to cook 
slowly till done. Ten minutes before serving remove the fat from 
the chicken gravy, add Y2 cupful cream ; cook 3 minutes. Arrange 
the chicken on a hot dish, strain the gravy over it, cut 4 slices of 
buttered toast into 3-cornered pieces, and lay them in a circle around 
the edge of dish ; put small sprigs of green parsley between the 
pieces of toast ; sprinkle 1 fine-chopped hard-boiled egg over the 
whole, and serve. 

Chicken Fricassee a L'Americaine. — Cut a well-cleaned 
chicken of 3 or 4 pounds into 10 pieces ; place them in a sauce- 
pan, cover with boiling water ; add 4 ounces salt pork cut into 
slices, Y2 tablespoonful salt, cover and boil till tender. Shortly be- 
fore serving, mix 1 tablespoonful butter with 1 tablespoonful flour ; 
add a little of the chicken broth to the butter and flour ; then add 
it to the chicken, cook 10 minutes, and serve. Or lay 6 slices of 
toast on a hot dish, and pour the fricassee over it. 

Chicken Fricassee a L'Alleraande.— Clean, wash, and cut a 
nice plump chicken of 3 pounds into 8 pieces ; season with 1 even 
tablespoonful salt, and 1 even teaspoonful pepper ; place a saucepan 
with 2 ounces butter over the fire, put in the chicken ; cover and 
cook 20 minutes, stirring the chicken several times during that 
time ; add sufficient boiling water to cover the chicken, also 2 
onions and a bouquet, and cook till tender. Twenty minutes before 
serving, melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 2 heaping table- 
spoonfuls flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; then add 1 quart of the 



362 POULTRY. 

strained chicken broth and Ys pint of canned mushrooms, cook 10 
minutes ; mix the yolk of 3 eggs with 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice, 
and add it to the sauce ; add 3 tablespoonfuls cream ; remove from 
the fire ; arrange the chicken on a hot dish, pour over the sauce, and 
garnish with nudle timbales, or farina dumplings. 

Chicken, Boned. — Singe, wash, and dry neatly a fine young 
plump chicken ; cut off the feet close to the first joint, also the 
wings ; cut off the neck close to the body ; then make an incision 
along the back, cutting the skin through to the bone ; begin boning 
from the neck down toward the breast, being careful not to tear the 
skin ; then bone the thighs and legs so that the skeleton is separated 
entirely from the meat. Clean the skeleton and giblets, then set 
aside. Spread the chicken out on a napkin, the skin toward the 
napkin, and with a sharp knife cut away even slices from the breast 
and lay them on the thin parts, so that the chicken has an even 
thickness all over ; draw the wings and legs inside ; season with 1 
even tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, and the juice of 

1 lemon ; then prepare the following forcemeat : Mix 1 pound of 
fine-choj)ped veal with 1 pound fine-chopped fresh pork, Y4 pound 
of fine-minced larding pork, 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even tea- 
spoonful white pepper, Y4 teaspoonful grated nutmeg, Y4 pound 
of beef tongue cut dice shape, Y2 box truffles cut the same way, and 
4 fine-cut mushrooms ; mix all well together ; place the forcemeat 
right in the center of the chicken, draw the 2 backs together, sew 
it up ; roll it in a napkin, and tie with a tape on both ends, and 
then in the middle. Place the bones and giblets of the chicken in 
a soup kettle over the fire ; cover with cold water ; add 1 even table- 
spoonful salt, and when it boils add the chicken, 2 onions, a bou- 
quet, and a small carrot ; cover and cook 2 hours. When done 
remove the chicken, cut the strings, roll it over again and tie tightly 
on both ends as before, and put it under a light weight. (By put- 
ting it on a dish, cover with a board the size of the chicken, put on 

2 fiat irons, and let it remain till cold.) Strain the broth through 



POULTRY. 363 

a napkin, remove all the fat ; soak 2 ounces of Kxox's gelatin in 

1 cupful cold water 5 minutes, add it to 3 pints chicken broth ; 
beat the whites of 2 eggs to a froth, add the juice of 2 lemons, stir 
it into the chicken broth, boil and stir constantly 5 minutes ; draw 
to side of stove, let stand 5 minutes ; then strain and put into a 
form. When ready to serve, cut the chicken into slices, arrange 
them neatly on a dish ; cut the jelly into small pieces, and lay it 
around the meat. Serve with remoulade sauce. The jelly may be 
put into shallow tin pans, and when firm cut into fancy shapes, like 
half moons, leaves, and stars. 

Chicken Fricassee with Dumplings. — Cut a well-cleaned 
chicken of 3 or 4 pounds into 10 pieces and place in a saucepan ; 
add 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, 2 onions, 
cover with boiling water, and cook till tender ; then mix 1 table- 
spoonful flour with 1 ounce butter, and add it to the fricassee. 
Ten minutes before serving mix 1 pint of prepared flour with 1 tea- 
spoonful butter, 1 gill of milk, 2 whole eggs and 1 yolk into a stiff 
batter ; cut with a tablespoon small portions from the batter, drop 
them into the fricassee, cover and boil 6 minutes ; then remove in- 
stantly the saucepan to side of stove, where they stop boiling. In 
serving arrange the chicken on a warm dish, and lay the dumplings 
in a circle around it. Sprinkle 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley 
over the whole, and serve. The batter will make 12 good-sized 
dumplings. 

Chicken Fricassee, Plain. — Cut a well-cleaned chicken of 3 
or 4 pounds into 10 pieces ; place in a saucepan, cover with boiling 
water; add 1 even tablespoonful salt; cover and cook till tender, 
which will take from 1 to 3 hours, according to the age of the 
chicken. Shortly before serving, mix 2 tablespoonfuls flour with 

2 ounces butter to a paste ; add a little of the chicken broth to 

the butter and flour ; then add all to the fricassee, cook 10 minutes, 

and serve with mashed potatoes, creamed corn, succotash, or creamed 

beans. 

24 



364 POULTRY. 

Chicken Fricassee with Forcement Balls.— Cut a well- 
cleaned chicken of 3 or 4 pounds into 10 pieces ; place in a sauce- 
pan ; cover with boiling water ; add 3 onions, a bouquet, 1 even 
tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper ; cover and cook till 
tender. Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls 
flour ; stir and cook 3 minutes ; strain the broth from the chicken, 
add it to the flour and butter, cook 10 minutes ; taste, and, if neces- 
sary, add more salt. Arrange the chicken on a hot dish, pour over 
the sauce, and lay small cooked veal or beef forcemeat balls in clus- 
ters around it. 

Chicken with Rice. — After cleaning a chicken of 4 pounds 
cut it into 10 pieces and place in a saucepan ; cover with boiling 
water, carefully remove any scum that rises ; then add 1 tablespoon- 
ful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, 2 onions, and a bouquet ; cover and 
boil till half done. At the same time place Yg pound well-washed 
rice in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, let it boil 5 minutes ; 
then drain the rice in a sieve, rinse off with fresh boiling water ; add 
the rice to the chicken, and boil gently till done. When ready to 
serve remove the bouquet, arrange the chicken and rice on a long 
dish, and serve. 

Chicken Curry. — Clean, wash, and cut a nice plump chicken 
of 3V2 pounds into 10 pieces ; place in a saucepan ; cover with boil- 
ing water ; add 1 tablespoonful salt, Yg teaspoonful pepper, a bou- 
quet, and 2 medium-sized white onions ; cover and cook till tender. 
Then melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan ; add 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 
stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful curry powder, mix it 
well with the butter and flour ; then strain the chicken broth ; add it 
to the butter and flour, stir and cook till smooth. Mix the yolks of 2 
eggs with 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, add it to the sauce. Arrange 
the chicken on a hot dish ; pour over the sauce, and lay a border of 
rice around it, or garnish with rice timbales. 

Pillau of Chicken a I'Espagnole.— Divide a well-cleaned 
young chicken of 2Yg pounds into 10 parts; season with 1 even 



POULTRY. 365 

tablespoonful salt; place a saucepan over the fire with 2 ounces 
butter, add 1 fine-chopped onion, Yg clove of bruised garlic, 1 fine- 
chopped green pepper without the seeds ; cook 5 minutes without 
browning ; put in the chicken, cover and cook 15 minutes, stirring 
it frequently ; then add Yg pint of canned tomatoes, or 2 fresh to- 
matoes, 12 fine-cut canned mushrooms, and IY2 pint of white broth 
or boiling water. Set a saucepan with Y2 pound of well-washed rice 
over the fire ; cover with boiling water, and cook 5 minutes ; then 
drain and rinse the rice olf with cold water ; add it to the chicken 
with a little saffron, and cook slowly till done. Shortly before serving, 
add Ys cupful grated Parmesan cheese, cook 2 minutes ; then serve. 

Chicken a la Creme. — Select a nice young chicken of 2Y2 
pounds ; clean and wash it ; cut it into 10 pieces ; season with 1 
teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonf ul white pepper ; place with 1 ounce but- 
ter in a saucepan over the fire ; add the Juice of Ys lemon, cover and 
cook 10 minutes ; then add 1 pint of boiling water and 1 onion, 
cook slowly till done ; shortly before serving lay the chicken on a 
hot dish ; remove the fat from the broth ; mix Ys pint cream with 
the yolks of 3 eggs, and add it to the chicken broth ; let it remain 
over the fire till nearly boiling, then remove and strain it over the 
chicken ; garnish with rice timbales. 

Fricassee de Poulets a la Toulouse.— Cut a fine, well- 
cleaned young chicken of 2Y2 or 3 pounds into 10 pieces ; put them 
into a large saucepan of boiling water for 3 minutes ; then drain in 
a colander and instantly plunge into cold water, letting them re- 
main 5 minutes ; take out the chicken, place it in a clean saucepan 
over the fire, cover with boiling water ; add 1 tablespoonful salt, 2 
white onions, and a bouquet, cover, and boil slowly till tender; 
drain off the broth and strain it. Melt 2 ounces butter in a sauce- 
pan, add 2 heaping tablespoonf uls flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; 
add the chicken broth and Y2 can of mushrooms, cook 15 minutes ; 
then take out the mushrooms, remove all the fat from the 
sauce ; taste, if necessary add more salt. Mix the yolks of 3 



366 POULTRY. 

eggs with Y2 pint cream, add it slowly to the gravy, and lastly 
the juice of Y2 lemon. Arrange the chicken on a hot dish, pour 
over the gravy, lay the mushrooms in clusters around it, and arrange 
with small croutons in a circle around the dish with sprigs of curled 
parsley between them. 

Chicken, Potted. — Select a fine young chicken of 3 or 4 
pounds in weight ; singe, draw, and wash it in cold water ; wipe it 
dry ; season with 1 tablespoonf ul salt, Yg teaspoonf ul pepper ; rub the 
seasoning inside and outside all over the chicken, bend the wings 
backward, and tie a string around the body. Place a saucepan 
large enough to hold the chicken with 4 ounces fine-cut larding 
pork over the fire ; fry light brown ; then add 2 ounces butter and 
the chicken ; turn the chicken frequently with a fork until it has 
obtained a light-brown color all around ; then add Y2 piiit of giblet 
broth (described below) ; cover and cook slowly until done ; if the 
gravy boils away add more broth, but only a little at a time. 
Shortly before serving lay the chicken on a warm dish ; remove the 
string, and set it in a warm place. Take the giblets from the broth 
and chop them fine ; remove the fat from the gravy. Mix 1 table- 
spoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the gravy, 
stir and cook 2 minutes ; then add sufficient giblet broth to make a 
creamy sauce, cook 5 minutes ; strain, and add the chopped giblets ; 
garnish the chicken with bread crolitons, and serve with browned 
sweet potatoes, potato puree, and compote of apples. 

Giblet Broth. — Put the chicken feet for 1 minute into boiling 
water ; take them out, remove the skin and nails, and place them 
with the neck and giblets in a saucepan over the fire ; cover with 
cold water ; add Ys teaspoonf ul salt ; when it boils, add 1 small 
onion, and boil 1 hour longer ; then use as directed above. A good 
plan is to make 3 pints of soup of the giblets, and use either meat 
broth or water for the chicken. (See Giblet Soup.) 

Chicken, Roasted. — Select a fine young and dry-picked 
chicken ; singe, draw, and wash it in cold water, wipe it dry ; season 



POULTRY. 367 

with 1 even tablespooiiful salt ; bend the wings backward, put a 
skewer through the thigh and body, and place the chicken in a 
roasting pan ; spread over it 1 ounce butter, and lay 3 thin slices of 
larding pork over the breast ; set the pan in a medium-hot oven, 
and roast until the chicken has become of a fine brown color all over, 
basting frequently with its own gravy ; then add Yg cupful giblet 
broth (mentioned below) ; continue the roasting and basting until 
the chicken is done ; if the gravy gets too brown add a little more 
broth (care must be taken not to have the oven too hot). Place the 
chicken feet 1 minute in boiling water; remove the skin and nails, 
place the feet, neck, and giblets in a saucepan, cover with cold 
water ; add Yg teaspoonf ul salt ; when it boils add 1 onion, cover, 
and boil 1 hour ; remove the skewer, and lay the chicken on a warm 
dish ; take off the fat from the gravy ; mix 1 tablespoonf ul corn- 
starch with 1 gill of cold water, and add it to the gravy, stir and 
cook 3 minutes ; then strain ; mash the boiled liver fine, add it to 
the sauce. Serve with stewed onions, mashed potatoes and turnips, 
or with creamed corn, browned sweet potatoes, and plain boiled or 
mashed potatoes. Another way is to serve all roasted poultry with 
potato, celery, or lettuce salad and compote. 

Roasted Chicken with Grihlet Forcemeat.— Prepare a 

chicken the same as for roast chicken with oyster forcemeat ; then 
chop the raw giblets as fine as possible. Soak Yg pound stale baker's 
bread 10 minutes in cold water, inclose it in a napkin, and press 
the water out ; place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the fire ; 
add 1 fine-chopped onion ; cook 5 minutes without browning ; then 
add the bread, stir and cook 6 minutes ; remove from the fire, and when 
cold add the chopped giblets, 2 whole eggs, 1 teaspoonf ul salt, Ys even 
teaspoonful pepper, Yg teaspoonful grated nutmeg, and 1 teaspooful 
thyme ; mix all well together ; fill the body and crop of the chicken, 
sew it up, truss it nicely ; finish the same as in foregoing recipe. 

Roast Chicken with Oyster Forcemeat. — Procure a nice 
plump chicken weighing from 3 to 4 pounds ; singe, draw, and 



368 POULTRY. 

wash it in cold water ; wipe it dry with a towel ; cut off the feet 
from the first joint of the leg, make an incision just under the 
thigh, and put the legs inside the chicken. Detach the skin as 
much as possible from the breast, and put a layer of oyster force- 
meat (described below) over the breast under the loosened skin ; 
fill the body with the same forcemeat. Sew the chicken up, truss 
it nicely, rub over it 1 even tablespoonful salt, spread over it 1 
tablespoonful butter, and lay a few thin slices of larding pork over 
the breast; place the chicken in a roasting pan in a medium- 
;hot oven ; roast until it has obtained a fine brown color all 
over, turning and basting it frequently ; then add Yg cupful broth 
from the giblets, which should be boiled in water, with ] small 
onion and a little salt ; continue to roast and baste till done. 
Shortly before serving lay the chicken on a hot dish, take out the 
threads and skewer, remove the fat from the gravy ; mix Yg table- 
spoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the gravy, 
stir and cook 3 minutes ; add sufiicient broth from the giblets to 
make a creamy sauce, boil 3 minutes ; then strain, and serve. 

Oyster Forcemeat. — One and a half cupful rolled crackers, 10 
large oysters chopped fine, 1 cupful oyster liquor, the yolk of 1 egg, 
1 whole egg, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, 1 
ounce melted butter, and Y2 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley; 
mix all together and use as directed. 

Boasted Chicken with Bread Dressing.— Place a saucepan 
with 2 ounces butter over the fire ; add 3 tablespoonfuls fine-minced 
onion ; cook 5 minutes without browning ; then add Y2 pound of 
baker's bread previously soaked in cold water and pressed out ; stir 
and cook 6 minutes ; remove from fire ; add 1 even teaspoonful salt, 
Y4 teaspoonful pepper, 1 teaspoonful thyme, and 2 eggs ; mix all 
together ; fill the chicken with this, and finish the same as in fore- 
going recipe. Another way is to remove the crust from a small loaf 
of stale bread and crumble the white part all up into small crumbs ; 
season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, 



POULTRY. 369 

1 teaspoonful thyme, 2 ounces melted butter, 1 egg, and 1 table- 
spoonful grated onion ; mix all together, and use. The grated 
onion may be omitted if the flavor is not liked. Chickens may be 
filled wtih sausage forcemeat, chestnut, or veal forcemeat. 

Casserole of Chicken. — Place a saucepan with iVg pound of 
well-washed rice over the fire, cover with cold water and cook 3 
minutes ; then drain it in a sieve and rinse off with cold water ; re- 
turn the rice to the saucepan, cover with 3 pints of water ; add 1 
even tablespoonf ul salt and 3 ounces of butter ; cook until the rice is 
tender, stirring often ; then mash it fine with a wooden spoon and 
add the yolks of 4 eggs. Butter a round deep tin mold, put in the 
rice, smooth the surface with a knife, and set in a cool place ; when 
perfectly cold set the mold for 1 minute in hot water, and turn 
the rice into a round dish ; brush the whole over with melted butter, 
place it in a hot oven, and bake 20 minutes without letting the rice 
get brown. Shortly before serving, remove the inside of the casserole, 
leaving lYg inch wall all around; fill in the prepared chicken 
mentioned below ; put some of the sauce over it, and serve the re- 
mainder in a sauce bowl. Cut a well-cleaned young chicken into 
10 pieces ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, Yg teaspoonful 
pepper ; fry 1 fine-chopped white onion in 2 ounces of butter a few 
minutes without browning; add the chicken and the juice of Vg 
lemon ; cook 30 minutes. In the meantime melt 1 tablespoonful 
butter in a saucepan ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and 
cook a few minutes ; add 1 pint boiling milk, 1 even teaspoonful 
salt, Y2 cupful mushroom liquor, and a bouquet ; cook 10 minutes ; 
strain ; add the sauce to the chicken, cook 20 minutes, and fill it 
into the casserole. 

Casserole au Riz Garnee d'un Emince de Tolaille. — Place 
1 pound of well- washed rice in a saucepan over the fire, cover with 
cold water, boil 5 minutes ; then drain in a sieve, rinse off with cold 
water ; put the rice into a double boiler, add 1 quart of chicken 
broth and 1 teaspoonful salt, cook until the kernels are tender, but 



370 POULTRY. 

not broken. In the meantime melt Ya ounce butter ; add Vg table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook a few minutes ; add Yg cupful milk, 
stir and cook 3 minutes ; add it to the rice, also 1 ounce butter, 
mix it carefully. Butter a low pie mold, one with hinges ; set it on 
a round dish ; fill the form Ys fwH of rice, press it against the sides 
of the form, and on the plate on which the form stands ; then put 
a small form in the center, fill up the space between the 2 forms 
with rice, and set it for 10 minutes in a warm place. Then remove 
the outside form and the small form from the inside; glaze the 
casserole with light glaze, fill the center with a chicken ragout (de- 
scribed below) ; lay a border of truffles around and serve. 

Chicken Ragout. — Eemove the breasts from 3 young plump 
chickens, season with salt and a little pepper ; place them in a 
round pan with 2 ounces butter, cover with buttered paper ; set 
them in a medium-hot oven and roast from 12 to 15 minutes. Cut 
off the legs aud second joints from the chickens and reserve them 
for other purposes ; place the well-cleaned bodies in a saucepan, 
cover with cold water, and let it boil over a moderate fire 3 minutes ; 
then drain in a sieve and rinse off with cold water. Cut the bodies 
into small pieces, return them to the saucepan, cover with fresh 
cold water, and set over the fire ; when boiling, add 1 teaspoonful 
salt, 1 white onion, and a bouquet ; boil 1 hour, then strain the 
broth. When the chicken breasts are done, remove and cut them 
into small pieces ; add to the butter in which the chicken breasts 
were cooked 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 min- 
utes ; then add 1 pint of the chicken broth, cook 5 minutes ; strain 
the sauce into a clean saucepan, add Ys pi^t of small mushrooms, 1 
even teaspoonful salt, cook 10 minutes ; add Ys cupful cream and 
the chicken meat, let it remain for a few minutes over the fire, and 
finish as directed above. 

Chicken Fillets— How to prepare for Entrees.— Select 
young plump chickens, singe, draw, and wash them ; remove the 
skin from the breasts so that the fillets lay bare, make an incision on 



POULTRY. 371 

top the breastbone from end to end, then with a small knife cut ofE 
the entire breast from each side, including the small wing bone. 
Under each breast will be found a small fillet which is called the mig- 
non ; carefully remove it, pare off with a small knife the thin white 
skin which covers the fillets and mignon, lay them in a buttered pan, 
cover with buttered paper, and set in a cool place till wanted. 

Chicken Fillets a la Toulouse. — Remove the breasts from 3 
young plump chickens as directed in foregoing recipe. Mix 1 table- 
spoonful salt with Ya teaspoonful white pepper, distribute it evenly 
over the fillets and mignous ; make 6 slanting incisions on top of 
each mignon, then cut 4 truffles into slices, cut each slice into 3 
strips ; insert in each incision of the mignon a strip of truffle ; lay 
1 mignon on top of each fillet lengthwise. Place a pan large 
enough to hold the fillets with 4 ounces of butter over the fire ; as 
soon as melted remove it, put in the fillets, and baste them with the 
melted butter ; then cover with buttered paper, place the pan in a 
medium-hot oven, and bake about 15 minutes. In the meantime 
place a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion and 1 
ounce butter over the fire, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 heaping table- 
spoonful flour, stir, and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 pint chicken broth 
prepared from the carcasses of the chickens and 1 even tablespoon- 
ful salt, 12 whole peppers, and 1 bay leaf ; cook slowly 10 minutes ; 
then strain into a clean saucepan, add Y2 gill of white wine, 2 fine- 
sliced truffles, cook 3 minutes ; then mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 1 
tablespoonful lemon juice, add it to the sauce, also Yg ounce butter, 
stir for 1 minute. Pour the sauce on a warm dish and arrange the 
fillets over them. 

Chicken Fillet, Supreme.— Prepare the breasts of 3 fine 
young chickens as previously directed ; season the fillets and min- 
gnons with 1 tablespoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful white pepper evenly 
distributed, lay the small fillets in the form of a boat on top the 
larger fillet, lay them in a buttered pan, pour over 4 ounces melted 
butter, cover with buttered paper, and set aside in a cool place. 



372 POULTRY. 

Prepare a fine chicken forcemeat of the breast from 1 chicken, 
butter a border form, put in the forcemeat, and place it also in a 
cool place. Thirty minutes before serving set the border form in 
a pan of hot water so that the water reaches half way up the form, 
cover with buttered paper, and place the pan in a hot oven ; bake 
25 minutes. Twenty minutes before serving place the pan with 
the fillets in a medium-hot oven and bake from 10 to 15 minutes, 
basting frequently. At the same time prepare the supreme sauce as 
follows : Place at the beginning the carcasses of the chickens in a 
saucepan, cover with cold water (reserving the legs and second 
joints for other purposes), add 1 tablespoonful salt ; when boiling 
add 2 onions and a bouquet and boil 2 hours longer, then strain, 
and use the broth for soup and sauces. Melt 1 ounce butter in a 
saucepan, add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 min- 
utes ; then add lYg cupful chicken broth, cook 5 minutes ; add IV2 
gill of cream, Yg ounce butter, Y2 even teaspoonful salt, cook 2 
minutes, strain, and add 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. When ready 
to serve pour the butter from the fillets and a few spoonfuls supreme 
sauce over them, then turn the forcemeat border on to a hot dish, 
lay the fillets on top of it ; add 3 fine-cut truffles to the sauce, re- 
turn the sauce for a few minutes to the fire, then pour it inside the 
forcemeat border, and serve as an entree. 

Fillet of Chicken a la Maltaise.— Prepare the fillets of 3 
fine young chickens as directed before ; lay the large fillets on a 
board with the skin side downward ; make an incision in center of 
each fillet and fill it with 1 tablespoonful chicken forcemeat ; then 
sew it up. The forcemeat is prepared from the mignons ; season 
the fillets with 1 tablespoonful salt and Y2 teaspoonful white pep- 
per ; cut 2 truffles into 6 slices, dip them in white of egg, and lay 1 
slice in the center of each fillet ; put them in a buttered pan large 
enough to receive them ; pour over 4 ounces melted butter ; cover 
with buttered paper and set in a cool place. In the meantime 
prepare a rice border as follows : Place Y2 pound well-washed rice 
in a saucepan over the fire ; cover with cold water ; cook 5 minutes ; 



POULTRY. 373 

drain in a sieve and rinse off with fresh cold water ; return the rice 
to saucepan again, cover with 1 pint milk ; add 1 even teaspoonf ul 
salt and cook till thick and tender ; then add 1 ounce butter and 
the yolks of 3 eggs; butter a border form, put in the rice, and 
place it on a baking sheet in a hot oven ; bake 10 minutes. Fifteen 
minutes before serving, place the pan with the fillets in a medium- 
hot oven and bake from 10 to 15 minutes, basting frequently. At 
the same time prepare the sauce : Melt 1 ounce butter in a sauce- 
pan ; add 2 tablespoonf uls fine-chopped onion, 1 tablespoonful 
grated carrots, 1 ounce of fine-chopped cooked ham, and cook 5 
minutes ; then add 2 fine-chopped mushrooms and 1 heaping table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 pint of chicken 
broth, a small bouquet, Yg cupful mushroom liquor, 12 whole pep- 
pers, and cook 5 minutes; then remove the bouquet and cook 5 
minutes longer ; add 1 even teaspoonf ul salt ; then strain. Cut 3 
truffles into fine slices, place them in a small saucepan with 1 gill of 
Madeira or sherry wine over the fire, and cook 5 minutes ; add this 
to the sauce, also Yg teaspoonf ul beef extract, and cook a few min- 
utes longer. When ready to serve turn the rice on to a warm dish, 
pour a little of the sauce over each fillet ; arrange them on top the 
rice ; dress the wing of each fillet with a paper ruffle, and serve with 
the sauce in a sauce bowl. 

Chicken Leg, Saute. — Place a saucepan with 2 fine-chopped 
onions and 2 ounces butter over the fire, cook 5 minutes ; season the 
legs and thighs of 3 chickens with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt, 
add them to the onions and butter, cover and cook 30 minutes ; 
then dust over 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir for a few minutes ; 
add 1 pint of chicken or veal broth ; cook slowly until the chicken 
legs are done ; add the juice of Ys lemon ; and last, add a few 
spoonfuls of cream, if handy ; then serve on a hot dish ; garnish 
with buttered toast or croutons or with mashed potatoes. 

Chicken Forcemeat. — Remove the breasts from 2 fine plump 
chickens weighing each about 3Y2 pounds; free them from the 



374: POULTRY. 

skin and chop fine ; add Yg pound fine-chopped suet, 2 even table- 
spoonfuls salt, 1 teaspoonf ul nutmeg. Place a saucepan with Yg pint 
of water over the fire ; add 1 ounce butter ; as soon as it boils add 
Y2 pint of flour ; stir and cook till it has formed into a smooth paste, 
and loosens itself from bottom of saucepan, then set aside. When 
cold put the chicken meat and the paste in a wooden chopping 
bowl ; mix together ; then take a potato masher and pound them 
fine, adding by degrees the yolks of 4 eggs and 1 whole egg. Place 
it in a cool place until wanted. 

Chicken Souffle. — Prepare a chicken forcemeat as directed in 
foregoing recipe ; melt Ys ounce butter in a saucepan, add Y2 table- 
spoonful flour ; stir and cook 3 minutes ; add Y4 cupful cream or 
milk, stir and cook 2 minutes ; then set aside. When cold mix the 
sauce with the chicken forcemeat, add the yolks of 3 eggs and 3 
whites beaten to a stiff froth. Butter a plain 2-quart-timbale form, 
lay around a piece of white buttered paper in the bottom, and dust 
the inside of form with flour ; fill it with the forcemeat ; set the 
form in a pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper ; place it in 
a medium-hot oven, and bake 40 minutes. In the meantime pre- 
pare a chicken broth from the carcasses of the chickens (reserving 
the second joints and legs for other purposes). Melt 2 ounces butter 
in a saucepan ; add IY2 tablespoonful flour, cook and stir 3 min- 
utes ; add 1 pint of chicken broth, 1 even teaspoonful salt, and 
cook 10 minutes ; add Ys pint cream, cook 5 minutes ; then strain 
the sauce. Trim and cut into round pieces 6 slices of boiled beef 
tongue; place them with 6 large and 6 small truffles in a saucepan 
over the fire ; cover them with the sauce mentioned above, let them 
heat through. When ready to serve, turn the souffle on to a warm 
dish ; arrange the large truffles and tongue alternately in a circle on 
top the souffle ; cut the small truffles in half, and lay them close to 
the edge as a border. Serve the sauce in a sauce bowl with the souffle. 

Epigram of Chicken. — Remove the breasts from 2 young 
chickens, each weighing 2 pounds and prepare the fillets as di- 



POULTRY. 3Y5 

rected ; then bone the thighs, stuff them with chicken forcemeat, 
and sew up ; lay the thighs in a saucepan with 1 sliced onion, a 
bouquet, and a small carrot ; cover with broth and cook 30 min- 
utes ; then remove, lay them under a light weight till cold. Place 
the fillets in a buttered pan, pour over 3 ounces butter ; cover with 
buttered paper ; place the pan in an oven, cook 15 minutes, basting 
frequently with the butter. When the thighs are cold dip them 
into beaten egg and bread crumbs ; fry to a golden color in butter. 
Arrange them in a circle alternately with the fillets and decorate 
the wings. Fill the center with a chestnut ragout, prepared as fol- 
lows : Boil 18 large chestnuts in water 20 minutes, then take them 
out ; remove the shell and the brown skin. Melt 1 ounce butter in 
a saucepan ; add 1 tablespoonful flour and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 
pint of chicken broth, 1 even teaspoonf ul salt, cook 5 minutes ; add 
the chestnuts and Yg can of canned mushrooms, cook 10 minutes ; 
then add 6 fine-sliced truffles, cook 3 minutes ; mix the yolks of 3 
eggs with Ya cup cream, add it to the ragout, and serve. (Do not 
let it boil after the yolks have been added.) In place of chestnuts, 
small chicken forcemeat balls may be boiled and added to the ragout. 

Chicken RagOtit. — Procure 3 fine young chickens each weigh- 
ing 2Y2 pounds, singe, draw, wash, and clean them ; remove the 
breasts and second joints ; free the joints from skin and bones, then 
cut these and the breasts into 2-inch pieces ; mix 1 tablespoon- 
ful salt with Y2 teaspoonful pepper and sprinkle it over the chicken. 
Melt 4 ounces butter in a low saucepan, put in the chicken ; cover 
and cook till done, turning it occasionally with a fork ; then remove 
the chicken and put it into a clean saucepan ; add to the. gravy 
2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onions, cook 5 minutes ; then add 2 
tablespoonfuls flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add IY2 pint of 
chicken broth, a bouquet, and 12 whole peppers, cook 5 minutes ; 
strain into a clean saucepan ; add Y2 cupful mushroom liquor, 18 
small mushrooms, 6 truffles cut into slices, cook slowly 10 minutes ; 
then mix the yolks of 3 eggs with Ys pint of cream ; draw the sauce- 



376 POULTRY. 

pan to side of stove, add the cream and yolks, and last 2 tablespoon- 
fuls lemon juice (do not let it boil again) ; then add the chicken to 
the sauce, and serve either in a vol-au-vent, rice, or nudle border. 
Or serve it in a hot dish and garnish with fleurons or croutons. 
Chicken ragouts are also used for filling large timbales. (For vol- 
au-vent, see my book Deserts and Salads, recipe 730.) 

Large Chicken Timbale. — Prepare a chicken forcemeat from 
the breasts of 3 young chickens ; butter a 2-quart-mold, decorate 
the bottom and sides with truffles and red beef tongue ; fill it three 
quarters full with the forcemeat ; press the forcemeat on the sides 
and bottom of form and fill the center with a chicken ragout, pre- 
pared the same as in foregoing recipe, only making it thicker by 
not adding all the sauce ; cover the timbale with the same force- 
meat ; set it in a pan of hot water ; then cover with thick buttered 
paper, and place the timbale in a medium-hot oven, and bake 45 
minutes. When done, turn the timbale on a warm dish, and serve 
with sauce a I'allemande. 

Quenelles of Chicken a I'Allemande. — Prepare a fine 
chicken forcemeat of the breast of a 4-pound chicken as directed. 
Prepare also a salpicon a la Toulouse, put it on a flat dish, and set 
aside to cool. Form with 2 tablespoons dumplings in the following 
manner : Put 1 spoon in a small saucepan of boiling water, take the 
other spoon half full of forcemeat, then press it with the wet spoon 
to make a hollow in the center, put into this 1 teaspoonful of the 
prepared salpicon ; spread over with a knife some forcemeat so 
that the salpicon is inclosed in the forcemeat; lift with the wet 
spoon the dumpling from the dry spoon, and lay it in a buttered 
saute pan ; when all are formed in this way, set them in a cool 
place. At the same time cut off the thighs and legs of the chicken 
and reserve them for other purposes. Put the well-cleaned feet, 
giblets, and the rest of the chicken in a saucepan, cover with cold 
water ; add 1 teaspoonful salt, and when it boils, 1 onion and a 
bouquet ; boil slowly 2 hours ; then strain the broth through a fine 



POULTEY. 377 

sieve. Fifteen minutes before serving, place the pan with the 
dumplings over the fire ; pour through a funnel into the pan suf- 
ficient boiling water to cover the dumplings ; add 1 teaspoonful 
salt, cover and let them simmer (not boil) for 10 minutes. Then 
prepare the sauce : Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 
heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; then add % 
pint of chicken broth, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 74 teaspoonful nut- 
meg, Y2 cupful mushroom liquor, 12 whole peppers ; cook slowly 10 
minutes ; strain the sauce into a clean saucepan ; mix the yolks of 

2 eggs with Yg cupful cream, add it slowly to the sauce, stir often 
for a few minutes over the fire (not letting it boil) ; add last 1 
tablespoonful lemon juice. When ready to serve, carefully remove 
the dumplings with a skimmer, lay them on a warm dish, pour 
over the sauce, and lay a border of boiled rice around it; then 
serve. 

Spring Chicken, Broiled. — Select a nice pair of young spring 
chickens each one weighing IY4 pound ; singe and split them 
through the back ; remove the insides ; wash the chickens quickly in 
cold water and wipe dry with a towel ; brush them over with melted 
butter, lay on a hot broiler over a moderate clear fire, and broil them 
light brown on both sides for about 25 minutes ; turn the chickens 

3 times during that time ; when done, lay them on a hot dish. Mix 
2 ounces butter with 1 even tablespoonful salt, Ys even teaspoonful 
pepper; spread this on both sides all over the chickens, garnish 
with water cress, and serve with Saratoga chips, or French fried 
potatoes, hot biscuits, buttered toast, or hot corn bread. 

Spring Chicken broiled European Style.— Select a pair of 
spring chickens weighing together 2Y2 pounds ; singe and split. them 
through the back ; mix 1 even tablespoonful salt with Y2 even tea- 
spoonful pepper ; sprinkle this evenly over the chickens ; bend the 
wings back, crack the bones between the first and second joints, 
flatten nicely, brush them over with melted butter, and cover with 
grated bread crumbs ; place them in a double broiler, and broil 10 



378 POULTRY. 

minutes on each side over a moderate fire. Serve on a warm dish, 
and garnish with potato chateau. 

Spring Chickens, Hungarian Style.— Singe, draw, and 
wash 2 spring chickens weighing in all about 272 pounds ; cut each 
one into 6 pieces, season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even tea- 
spoonful pepper. Place the giblets in a saucepan over the fire, 
cover with cold water ; add Yg teaspoonf ul salt and when it begins to 
boil a small onion, a bouquet, and boil 40 minutes. Set a saucepan 
with 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine- 
chopped onion, cook 5 minutes without browning ; then put in the 
chicken, cover, and cook 10 minutes, turning the chicken twice with 
a fork. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan ; add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add Y2 pi^it of the strained 
giblet broth and Y2 pint of canned mushrooms, and cook 5 minutes ; 
then add Y3 cupful cream ; pour the sauce over the chicken, and 
cook till tender. Shortly before serving add the juice of 1 lemon. 
Serve on a warm dish with 6 small slices of bread cut into round 
shape and fried brown in butter. 

Spring Chickens, DeTilled. — Split a pair of well-cleaned 
spring chickens through the back; season them with 1 even table- 
spoonful salt, 1 even teaspopnful pepper ; crack the bones between 
the first and second Joints and flatten them nicely ; put in a roast- 
ing pan with 2 thin slices of larding pork over the breast of each 
chicken and pour 2 ounces melted butter over them ; place the pan 
in a medium-hot oven, cover with buttered paper, and roast 20 
minutes, basting frequently with their own gravy ; then remove the 
paper, add 1 gill of boiling broth, and roast till the chickens are 
done, which will take in all about 40 minutes. Shortly before serv- 
ing lay the chickens on a hot dish, remove part of the fat from the 
gravy, add Yg tablespoonful cornstarch to the gravy, stir and cook 
3 minutes over the fire ; then add 2 gills of broth from the giblets, 
stir and cook 3 minutes; strain, and serve with the chickens; or 
they may be served without sauce. Serve with French fried pota- 



POULTRY. 379 

toes or baked potatoes. The giblets, the neck, and well-cleaned 
chicken feet are placed in a saucepan, covered with cold water, and 
seasoned with Y2 teaspoonful salt and a small onion, cooked 40 min- 
utes, then strained, and used as directed above. 

Spring Chicken^ Fried, No. 1. — Cut a pair of well-cleaned 
spring chickens into quarters ; season each one with 1 even tea- 
spoonful salt, and Yg even teaspoonful pepper. Place a frying pan 
with 2 ounces fine-cut pork over the fire, and fry light brown ; add 1 
ounce butter ; put in the chickens, fry 5 minutes on each side over 
a moderate fire ; then cover the pan, and cook till tender, which will 
take about 25 minutes. Place the neck, the giblets, and the well- 
cleaned feet in a saucepan over the fire ; cover with cold water ; 
add Y3 teaspoonful salt and, when boiling, 1 small onion ; cook 40 
minutes, strain, and use for gravy. Lay the chickens, when done, 
on a hot dish ; add to the gravy Y2 tablespoonful cornstarch, stir 
and cook 3 minutes ; then add ^4 pint of the giblet broth, cook 5 
minutes ; strain, and serve with the chickens ; garnish with crou- 
tons. Another way is to chop the giblets fine, add them to the 
gravy, lay the chickens on buttered toast, pour the gravy over 
them, sprinkle 1 fine-chopped hard-boiled egg over, and garnish 
with water cress or parsley. 

Spring Chicken, Fried, No. 2.— Cut 1 or 2 well-cleaned 
spring chickens into quarters ; wash them in cold water and wipe 
dry ; season each one with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful 
pepper ; dust with flour and dip them in beaten egg, then cover 
with fine sifted bread crumbs. Place a frying pan with 1 ounce 
butter and 1 ounce lard over the fire ; as soon as hot put in as 
many of the chicken quarters as will conveniently go into the 
pan ; fry light brown on both sides over a moderate fire ; con- 
tinue until all are fried. Serve on a warm dish with toast or fried 
potatoes. 

Boiled Chicken. — Procure a nice young chicken of 3 or 4 

pounds ; singe, draw, and wash it in cold water ; truss it nicely ; 
25 



380 POULTRY. 

place it in a saucepan ; cover with boiling water ; add Yg tablespoon- 
f ul salt, 2 onions, and a bouquet ; cover and boil till tender. In 
the meantime prepare a cream sauce as follows : Place a saucepan 
with IY2 ounce butter over the fire, add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, 
stir and cook 2 minutes ; then add IY2 cupful of the chicken broth, 
Y2 even teaspoonful salt, Y* teaspoonf ul nutmeg ; boil 5 minutes ; mix 
the yolks of 2 eggs with Y2 cupful of cream, add slowly to the sauce ; 
add Ya ounce butter and 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. Serve the 
chicken on a warm dish and the sauce in a sauce bowl. Caper, egg, 
or shrimp sauce may be served with the chicken. 

Chicken Potpie. — Cut a well-cleaned young chicken into 10 
pieces ; clean and place the feet, neck, and giblets in a saucepan ; 
cover with 3 pints of cold water ; add Y2 teaspoonful salt, and when 
beginning to boil, 1 onion and a bouquet ; boil 1 hour. In the mean- 
time peel and cut into quarters 6 medium-sized potatoes, into slices 
2 good-sized white onions, and 2 ounces salt pork cut into slices. 
Mix 1 tablespoonful salt with 1 teaspoonful pepper; then put into 
a bowl 1 pint of flour, Y2 teaspoonful salt, Y2 pii^t of lard, cut fine 
with a knife into the flour ; add Y2 cupful cold water, and mix it 
with the same knife into a firm paste ; turn it on to a floured board, 
roll it out, lay it 3 double, then roll it again to Y2 inch in thickness ; 
lay the cover of the saucepan in which the potpie is to be made 
over the paste, cut it with a knife close to the edge of cover, and 
the remaining paste into 3 or 4 pieces. Next take a saucepan large 
enough to hold the potpie ; put in a layer of the chicken with 3 
small slices of salt pork ; then a layer of potatoes and onions ; sea- 
son with pepper and salt ; add a few pieces of the dough, continue 
in alternate layers until all is used ; then cover with a round piece 
of paste, cut an opening in the center and put 1 ounce butter in the 
opening ; strain the giblet broth, pour it over the pie ; if not enough 
to cover, add some boiling water ; cover and cook 1 hour. In serv- 
ing cut the cover into pieces, lay them in a circle around the dish, 
put the chicken in the center with the gravy ; then serve. 



POULTRY. 381 

Chicken Pie. — Select a young chicken of 2Y2 pounds ; singe, 
draw, and wash it in cold water ; cut it into 10 pieces, place in 
saucepan and cover with boiling water ; add 1 even tablespoonf ul 
salt, Y2 even teaspoonf ul pepper, 2 onions, and a bouquet ; cover and 
boil till tender. In the meantime sift 1 pound flour in a bowl ; add 
Y2 teaspoonf ul salt ; make a hollow in the center, put in the yolks 
of 3 eggs, Ya pound butter, and 1 gill of water ; work this with the 
hands into a firm paste ; lay it on a plate, and let it rest for 1 hour 
on ice or in a cool place. When the chicken is done take it from 
the broth, remove the large bones, and set it in a cool place ; strain 
the broth. Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan ; add 2 heaping 
tablespoonfuls flour, stir 3 minutes, then add the strained chicken 
broth, cook 5 minutes ; if handy, add Y2 cupful cream ; add Y2 piiit 
of this sauce to the chicken, place the remainder in a warm place. 
When the chicken is cold, butter a deep pie dish, sprinkle the dish 
with fine bread crumbs, line the sides with the above-described 
paste ; put in the chicken, cover it with a thick layer of paste ; 
ornament the edge with leaves cut from the paste ; make a cross in 
the center ; turn the 4 corners over so as to leave an opening ; brush 
the pie over with beaten egg ; set it in a moderately hot oven, to bake 
till nearly done ; then take the pie out of the oven ; put a small funnel 
in the opening of the center, pour in as much of the gravy (which 
was made from the chicken broth) as the pie will hold ; return it to 
the oven, and bake till done; then serve. Serve the remaining 
gravy separately in a sauce bowl. If liked, 3 large peeled potatoes 
may be parboiled in salted water, then cut into slices and added to 
the pie. 

Chicken Timhales. — Procure a nice plump chicken about 4 
pounds in weight; remove the breast and mince it very fine; then 
pound it to a paste ; add to this 4 ounces fine-minced veal fat or 
suet. Then place a saucepan with Y2 pint of water and Ya ounce of 
butter over the tire ; as soon as it boils add 4 ounces flour ; stir until 
it loosens from bottom of saucepan, then set aside. When cold mix 



382 POULTRY. 

it with the fat and chicken meat ; pound the whole well together ; 
season with 1 even tablespoonf ul salt, Yg teaspoonful nutmeg ; add 1 
whole egg and 2 yolks ; butter 13 small timbale forms, lay in the 
bottom of each a small star of truffles, fill them three quarters full 
with the chicken forcemeat, press it on the sides so as to leave a hol- 
low space in the center ; then prepare a salpicon as follows : Place 
a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the fire ; add 1 tablespoonful 
flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; then add Yg pint chicken broth, cook 
2 minutes ; add 1 gill of fine-cut cooked chicken meat, 12 fine-cut 
mushrooms, 2 fine-cut truffles, and 1 gill of fine-cut beef tongue ; 
season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, Y2 
teaspoonful grated nutmeg, the juice of Y2 lemon ; stir and cook 10 
minutes; add 4 tablespoonf uls cream, then set aside; when cold, 
fill Y2 tablespoonful into each timbale, and cover with the same 
forcemeat. Half an hour before serving place the forms in a pan 
of hot water, which should reach half way up the forms ; place the 
pan in a hot oven, cover with buttered paper, bake 20 to 25 min- 
utes, and serve with the following sauce : Place a small sauce- 
pan with 1 ounce butter over the fire, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 
and cook 3 minutes ; add IY2 cupful chicken broth, Y2 cupful mush- 
room liquor, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful nutmeg, and a 
small bouquet ; boil 5 minutes ; remove the bouquet ; mix the yolks 
of 2 eggs with Y2 cupful cream ; add it to the sauce ; then strain. 
Unmold the timbales, and serve. Small timbales are generally 
served after the soup on individuals with a tablespoonful sauce 
under them. 

Chicken Croquettes. — Melt IY2 ounce butter in a small sauce- 
pan ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook for a few 
minutes without browning ; then add IY4 cupful chicken broth ; tie 
together 1 sprig of parsley, 1 blade of mace, a small sprig of thyme, 
Yg bay leaf, 1 clove, and add this to the sauce with 6 whole peppers, 
Y2 teaspoonful salt, and a pinch of nutmeg ; boil 10 minutes ; then 
strain into another saucepan, add 6 fine-chopped mushrooms, 1 pint 



POULTRY. 383 

fine-cut cooked chicken meat, 3 tablespoonf uls sherry wine ; season 
with 1 teaspoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful white pepper, Y4 teaspoonful 
grated nutmeg, and cook 10 minutes; draw the saucepan to side of 
stove ; add the yolks of 3 eggs, stir well, spread the mixture on a 
flat dish, and set away. When cold, form the preparation into cro- 
quettes ; take a tablespoonf ul of the mixture, drop it into grated 
bread crumbs ; roll it into round balls ; dip the balls into beaten 
egg, and cover with bread crumbs ; roll into oblong shapes. When 
all are prepared in this way, fry them in hot fat to a delicate brown, 
and serve with cream or supreme sauce. 

SuPEEME Sauce. — Cut a well-cleaned chicken into 8 pieces (put 
the breast, thighs, and legs aside for other purposes) ; scald the feet 
in boiling water, remove their skin, and place them with the wings 
and back of the chicken in a saucepan ; cover with boiling water, 
cook 2 minutes ; drain in a colander ; rinse off with fresh cold 
water; return the chicken pieces to the fire and cover with fresh 
cold water, adding 1 teaspoonful salt and a small bouquet; cover, 
and boil 1 hoar. Melt 1 ounce of butter in a saucepan ; add 1 
heaping tablespoonful flour, stir for a few minutes; strain the 
chicken broth ; add 1 pint of broth to the butter and flour, stir well, 
and cook slowly 10 minutes; then add Yg tablespoonf ul butter, Ys 
cupful cream, cook 2 minutes; add the juice of Ys lemon, and 
serve. 

Chicken Croquettes a la Trayiete. — Place a well-cleaned 
chicken 3 pounds in weight in a saucepan ; cover with boiling 
water ; add 2 onions, Y2 tablespoonful salt, and a bouquet ; cover 
and boil till tender ; take it out, free the meat from skin and bones, 
and cut it fine ; then place a saucepan with 2 ounces butter over the 
fire ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; 
add IY2 cupful chicken broth and a small bouquet, cook 5 minutes ; 
remove the bouquet ; add 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoon- 
ful white pepper, 1 pint of the fine-cut chicken meat, Y2 cupful 
fine-cut mushrooms, stir and cook 5 minutes; add the jolks of 3 



384 POULTRY. 

eggs, continue the stirring for a few minutes ; spread the mixture 
on a flat dish, and set aside to cool. Shortly before serving form 
it into cork-shaped croquettes ; dip them into beaten egg and 
roll in grated bread crumbs ; then fry light brown in half lard and 
half butter, or in boiling lard ; lay the croquettes on blotting paper, 
to absorb all the grease ; serve on a hot dish with sauce traviete, 
made as follows : Place a small saucepan with 2 tablespoonf uls fine- 
chopped onion over the fire ; add 3 tablespoonfuls tarragon vinegar, 
12 coarsely pounded black peppers, cook until nearly dry, and when 
cold add the yolks of 4 eggs, and slowly Y2 cupful boiling water 
with 1 teaspoonf ul beef extract ; set the saucepan into boiling water 
over the fire ; stir and cook till the sauce begins to thicken ; remove, 
add V2 cupful stewed tomatoes ; then strain through a sieve ; add 
"^/g cupful whipped cream, and serve. 

Chicken Croquettes a la Bechamel.— Prepare these cro- 
quettes the same as in foregoing recipe, and serve with bechamel 
sauce. 

Bagotltant. — Place a saucepan over the fire with 1 ounce of 
butter and 1 tablespoonf ul flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add % 
pint boiling m.ilk, a small bouquet, y, teaspoonful nutmeg, 1 gill of 
mushroom liquor, 12 whole peppers, 1 even teaspoonful salt, cook 5 
minutes, then strain into a clean saucepan. Season 1 chicken liver 
with salt and pepper, fry it 5 minutes in butter ; stew also Y2 pint 
of canned mushrooms 10 minutes in 1 ounce butter ; then cut into 
small pieces ; cut also the liver fine, add to this 1 pint of cooked 
chicken meat ; add the 3 ingredients to the sauce ; add from 2 to 4 
tablespoonfuls of cream. Then fill the preparation into 6 table 
shells ; sprinkle over some grated bread crumbs with a few drops of 
butter, and bake till light brown in hot oven about 10 minutes. 

Chicken a la Poulette. — Place a well-cleaned young chicken 
3 pounds in weight in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling 
water, add 2 onions, 1 bouquet, and Yg tablespoonf ul salt ; cover and 
cook slowly. When done take out the chicken, remove skin and 



POULTRY. 385 

bones, cut the white meat into Yg-inch pieces. Place a saucepan 
with 2 ounces butter over the fire, add 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 
stir and cook 3 minutes, then add gradually 1 pint of chicken broth, 
1 teaspoonf ul salt, Yg teaspoonf ul nutmeg, and a small bouquet ; cook 
5 minutes. Strain the sauce into a clean saucepan, add 1 gill of 
fine-cut mushrooms, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, cook 5 minutes ; 
mix Ys piiit of cream with the yolks of 4 eggs and 1 teaspoonf ul 
fine-chopped parsley, add it to the sauce, stir for a few minutes oyer 
the fire, without boiling ; then draw the saucepan to side of stove, 
add the fine-cut chicken meat and the sweetbreads mentioned be- 
low. Place 1 pair of large sweetbreads in a saucepan, cover with cold 
water, add 1 teaspoonf ul salt, and boil 5 minutes ; remove, and cool 
in cold water. Place a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter over 
the fire, drain and dry the sweetbreads, add them to the butter, 
season with 1 even teaspoonful seasoning salt, cover and cook 
slowly till done ; then remove and cut them into pieces, and use as 
directed above. Serve in small fancy bowls with finger rolls. 

How to cook Old Chickens. — Singe, draw, and wash a 
chicken of 3 or 4 years old ; put it in a kettle over the fire ; cover 
completely with boiling water ; add Ys tablespoonful salt, 2 onions, 
and a bouquet ; draw the kettle to side of stove and simmer gently 
from 3 to 4 hours, or until a fork will easily penetrate through the 
second joint ; then remove the kettle from the fire, let the chicken 
remain 20 minutes in the broth ; take it out, season with 1 even 
tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper evenly distributed inside 
and outside over the chicken. Then place a saucepan large enough 
to hold the chicken over the fire with 4 ounces of larding pork ; fry 
to a delicate brown ; add 2 ounces butter and the chicken ; keep 
turning the chicken until it has obtained a fine brown color ; then 
add Ys pint of the chicken broth, cover and cook slowly 30 minutes; 
transfer the chicken to a hot dish ; remove some of the fat from 
the gravy ; mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch with Ys cupful cold 
water, add it to the gravy, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add sufficient 



386 POULTRY. 

chicken broth to make a creamy sauce ; then strain ; chop the 
boiled giblets very fine, add them to the sauce ; cut the chicken 
into 10 pieces, lay them on a hot dish, pour over the gravy, and 
serve. This dish is very nice garnished with small slices of bread 
fried brown in half lard and half butter or fat. Prepare nudle soup 
of the broth. 

Old Chicken, Roasted. — Put a well-cleaned old chicken in a 
saucepan ; cover with boiling water ; add Yg tablespoonful salt, 2 
onions, and a bouquet ; boil from 2 to 3 hours, or until a fork will 
penetrate the meat easily ; then take it out ; season with 1 even 
tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonf ul pepper ; lay the chicken in a 
roasting pan with 4 thin slices of larding pork over the breast, pour 
2 ounces melted butter all over it ; place the pan in a hot oven ; 
roast, basting frequently, until the chicken is nice and brown ; then 
add Ya cupful chicken broth, continue to roast and baste 30 min- 
utes. Shortly before serving, lay the chicken on a warm dish ; 
remove the fat from the gravy, mix Ya tablespoonful cornstarch 
with Y2 gill of cold water ; add it to the gravy, stir and cook 3 min- 
utes ; add sufficient chicken broth to make a creamy sauce and boil 
5 minutes ; then strain ; rub the boiled liver to a cream ; add it to 
the sauce, and serve. 

Old Chicken with Dressing. — Boil and roast the chicken the 
same as in foregoing recipe ; soak Y4 pound stale baker's bread 10 
minutes in cold water, inclose it in cheese cloth or a towel, and 
press out all the water. Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 3 
tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onions, stir and cook 5 minutes ; then 
add the bread, stir and cook 5 minutes longer ; turn the bread into 
a bowl, and when cold add Ys even teaspoonful white pepper, 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful thyme, and 2 eggs ; mix all the in- 
gredients well together, put into a buttered pan. Twenty minutes 
before serving, place in a hot oven, and bake 15 minutes. When 
ready to serve, carve the chicken nicely ; cut the bread filling into 
slices, and lay them on a hot dish ; pour a little of the chicken 



POULTRY. 387 

gravy over each piece ; give to each person some chicken and 1 
slice of the filling. Make either a nudle or a rice soup of the 
remaining chicken broth. 

COLD CHICKEN. 

How to utilize Odd Boiled or Roasted Chicken. 

Fritee of Cold Boiled Chicken. — Cut cold boiled chicken 
into joints the same as for fricassee, then mix the yolks of 2 eggs 
with Ya cupful milk ; add Yg pint of flour, Ys even teaspoonf ul salt, 
Y2 ounce melted butter ; stir until a smooth batter is formed ; beat 
the 2 whites to a stiff froth ; add the batter slowly to the whites, 
stirring constantly ; dip the chicken pieces into the batter ; then 
fry them to a fine golden color in hot fat (which should be deep 
enough to cover the chicken pieces) till done ; remove with a skim- 
mer ; drain on paper ; dress the chicken on a hot dish, and garnish 
with fried or green parsley ; serve with baked, or French fried po- 
tatoes. 

Cold Chicken with Oysters. — Eemove the meat from cold 
roasted chickens, cut it into 1-inch pieces; crack the bones and 
put them in a saucepan over the fire ; add the gravy if at hand ; 
barely cover with cold water ; as soon as it boils add 1 fine-cut 
onion and a small bouquet ; cover and boil 40 minutes ; then strain 
the broth through a napkin. Put 1 pint of oysters with their liquor 
in a saucepan over the fire ; let come to a boil, then instantly re- 
move them with a skimmer, and set aside. Melt IY3 ounce butter 
in a saucepan ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onions, 1 bay leaf, 
12 whole peppers, and 1 even teaspoonful salt ; cook 5 minutes 
without browning ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 min- 
utes ; add 1 pint of broth mentioned above, and cook 5 minutes 
longer ; remove the bay leaf ; continue the cooking for 5 minutes ; 
strain into a clean saucepan ; add IY3 pint of chicken meat, cook 5 
minutes ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Y2 cupful cream, add it to 
the chicken ; then add the oysters and 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. 



388 POULTRY. 

The yolks and cream may be omitted and in place of them 1 table- 
spoonful unsweetened condensed milk used ; but the former is the 
finer of the two. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with 6 small 
pieces of buttered toast. 

Risotto of Cold Chicken. — Pour boiling water over Vg pound 
well- washed rice, let it remain a few minutes, then drain on a sieve ; 
rinse off with fresh boiling water. Melt 2 ounces butter or 3 table- 
spoonfuls olive oil in a saucepan ; add 1 gill of fine-chopped onion, 
cook 5 minutes without browning ; then add the rice, stir and cook 
a few minutes ; add 1 pint of chicken or veal broth, 1 teaspoonf ul 
salt, Y2 teaspoonful pepper, and Y^ pint of stewed tomatoes, or 2 fine- 
cut raw tomatoes ; cover and cook slowly till the rice is nearly done ; 
add 1 pint of fine-cut chicken meat, and continue the cooking until 
the rice is soft, but the kernels should be whole. "When ready to 
serve turn the risotto on a hot dish, sprinkle over 2 ounces grated 
cheese, and mix it well with 2 forks. A great improvement to this 
dish is a garnish of tomatoes, prepared as follows : Place 1 gill of 
fine-chopped onions in a deep frying pan with 1 ounce butter, cook 
5 minutes ; cut 4 large ripe tomatoes in halves, lay them with the 
skin side downward into the pan ; season with 1 even teaspoonful 
salt, Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, cover and cook 5 minutes ; turn 
the tomatoes over, and cook for 5 minutes longer ; remove them 
carefully and arrange in a circle around the dish ; pour the sauce 
over the tomatoes, and serve. 

Silan Curry of Cold Chicken. — Cut the meat from rem- 
nants of cold roasted or boiled chicken into 1-incli pieces ; place a 
saucepan with 1 gill of fine-cut onions and IY2 ounce butter over 
the fire, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 teaspoonful curry powder, 1 tea- 
spoonful salt, and 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; 
add Ys pit^t of chicken broth, which can be made from the chicken 
bones, cook and stir a few minutes ; then add IY2 giU of cream or 
milk, Ys pint of grated cocoanut, and 1 pint of chicken meat, cook 
5 minutes. Serve in a border of boiled rice. 



POULTRY. 389 

Cold Chicken ^ la Cr§me. — Cut the meat of cold roasted or 
boiled chicken into small pieces ; crack the bones and place them 
in a saucepan, cover with cold water ; if any gravy is at hand add it 
to the chicken bones ; as soon as it boils add 1 onion cut into slices, 
Y2 bay leaf, 12 whole peppers, boil 40 minutes ; then strain the 
broth through a sieve. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan ; add 1 
tablespoonf ul flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add Y2 pint of chicken 
broth, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful white pepper, and 1 
gill of milk, cook 2 minutes ; then add IY2 pint fine-cut chicken 
meat, cook 5 minutes ; add, if handy, Y3 cupful cream or 1 table- 
spoonful unsweetened condensed milk, continue the cooking 3 
minutes ; add last 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. Lay 6 pieces 
of buttered toast on a hot dish, pour over the chicken creme 
and serve, or serve with a border of boiled nudles in place of 
toast. 

Minced Cold Chicken. — Remove the meat from the bones of 
cold roasted chicken, free it from the skin and gristle ; chop the 
meat as fine as possible ; then weigh it ; add to 1 pound of fine- 
minced chicken meat 4 ounces butter, 4 ounces fine-minced boiled 
ham ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful white 
pepper ; mix all well together and put it in a small jar. (If it is to 
be kept for some time cover with melted butter, tie a paper over, 
and keep it in a cool place.) Cold chicken prepared in this way is 
handy for sandwiches and stuffed eggs. 

Chicken Livers, Stewed.— Wash and wipe dry the livers of 6 
chickens, season with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt. Place a 
small saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the fire ; as soon as hot put 
in the livers, cook 6 minutes ; add 2 tablespoonf uls sherry or 
Madeira wine and a pinch of Cayenne pepper. Melt Y2 ounce butter 
in another saucepan, add Ys tablespoonful fiour, stir 3 minutes ; add 
Y2 pint of boiling water and 1 teaspoonful beef extract, then 1 gill 
of fine-chopped mushrooms, cook 5 minutes ; add this sauce to the 
livers, cook a few minutes longer ; add 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 



390 POULTRY. 

and serve on a warm dish ; garnish with croutons. The mushrooms, 
if not at hand, may be omitted. 

Chicken Livers broiled with Bacon. — Wash and wipe 6 
chicken livers dry, season with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt; 
cut 13 thin slices of bacon, then each liver into 2 pieces ; take 3 
silver skewers, run a skewer through the center of a piece of liver, 
then through a slice of bacon, continue alternately with bacon and 
livers till the 3 skewers are full ; then brush the livers over with 
melted butter, sprinkle them with fresh grated bread crumbs, lay 
on a hot broiler, and broil 5 minutes on each side ; put the skewers 
on a hot dish. Stir 1 ounce butter to a cream ; add slowly 1 table- 
spoonful lemon juice, Y^ teaspoonful nutmeg, and 1 teaspoonful fine- 
chopped parsley ; spread this over the livers, and serve. 

Chicken Livers a I'ltalienne. — Wash and wipe dry 6 or 8 
chicken livers, cut each liver into slices ; season with 1 even table- 
spoonful seasoning salt ; place a saucepan with IY2 ounce butter 
over the fire ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, Y2 clove of 
bruised garlic, and cook 5 minutes ; add Y2 pii^t of fine-chopped 
mushrooms, also the livers ; cook slowly 10 minutes. In the mean- 
time melt in another saucepan Y2 ounce butter ; add Y2 tablespoon- 
ful flour ; stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 gill of meat broth or 
stock (if stock is not handy, add 1 gill of boiling water and Y2 tea- 
spoonful beef extract), cook 5 minutes ; then add it to the livers 
and cook a few minutes longer ; serve on a heated dish with 6 small 
slices of bread fried in butter to a delicate brown. 

Chicken Legs, Broiled. — Place the legs of 3 chickens in a 
saucepan, cover with boiling water; add Y2 tablespoonful salt, 1 
onion, and a bouquet ; boil until a larding needle will penetrate 
easily through them ; them remove ; when cold mix 1 teaspoonful 
seasoning salt with 1 teaspoonful English mustard ; roll the chicken 
legs into this seasoning ; dip them in melted butter, roll in fresh 
grated bread crumbs, lay on a hot broiler, and broil 5 minutes on 
each side. Serve on a warm dish with maitre d 'hotel butter. 



POULTRY. 391 

Chicken Legs and Second Joints a I'Allemande.— Place 

the legs and second joints of 3 chickens in a saucepan, cover with 
boiling water ; add 3 medium-sized onions, 1 even teaspoonful white 
pepper, 1 even tablespoonf ul salt, and a bouquet ; boil slowly till 
tender ; lay the legs and joints on a hot dish ; strain the broth. 
Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 
stir and cook 2 minutes ; add the strained broth, cook until smooth. 
Mix the yolks of 2 eggs and the juice of half a lemon, add it to 
the sauce ; add last a few spoonfuls cream. Place the legs and 
joints on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with 
rice, nudle, or potato timbales. 

Guinea Hen, Potted. — Season a nice pair of well-cleaned 
Guinea hens with 1 tablespoonf ul salt ; tie the legs and wings close 
to the body with strings. Place a saucepan large enough to receive 
the birds with 4 ounces fine-cut larding pork over the fire ; fry 
until light brown ; add 2 ounces butter and the Guinea hens, let 
them cook, turning often till they are light brown on all sides ; then 
add 1 cupful boiling water, cover and cook slowly till they are done ; 
if the gravy gets too brown add a little more water, but only a little 
at a time, for if too much water is added they will be stewed in- 
stead of roasted. Place the giblets with 1 quart cold water and a 
little salt in a saucepan over the fire ; cook till done. Shortly be- 
fore serving, fry 6 small slices of bread in butter or half lard to a 
delicate brown color ; cut them in triangle shapes. Remove the 
Guinea hens ; cut each one into 6 pieces ; lay them on a warm dish ; 
remove the fat from the gravy ; mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch with 
Ys gill of cold water ; add it to the gra-v^y, cook 3 minutes ; add suf- 
ficient giblet broth to make a creamy sauce, cook 5 minutes ; strain 
the sauce into a clean saucepan ; chop the giblets fine, add them to 
the sauce ; pour the gravy over the birds, and lay the fried bread in 
a circle around the dish, then serve. 

Guinea Hen, Roasted. — Remove the feathers from a nice pair 
cf young hens ; singe, draw, wash, and dry them ; season with 1 



392 POULTRY. 

tablespoonful salt, truss nicely, and lay them in a roasting pan ; 
spread over each hen 2 ounces butter, and tie over the breasts a large 
thin slices of larding pork ; add Y2 gill of boiling water ; set the 
pan in a medium-hot oven, and roast till done, basting frequently 
with their own gravy (if the gravy should get too brown, add a lit- 
tle more water). Shortly before serving, lay the fowls on a warm 
dish ; remove the fat from the gravy and add a little stock to it ; 
boil 2 minutes ; then strain, and serve with the birds. 

Capon, Roasted. — Season a well-cleaned capon with 1 table- 
spoonful salt ; rub the salt inside and outside ; twist the wings back- 
ward, truss it nicely ; spread 1 ounce butter over it, and lay 3 slices 
of larding pork over the breast ; place the capon in a roasting pan ; 
set the pan in a medium-hot oven ; roast and baste frequently until 
it is light brown all over ; then add a little boiling water ; continue 
to roast until done. Shortly before serving, lay the capon on a 
warm dish, remove all fat from the gravy ; add a little bouillon ; 
let it boil 2 minutes ; then strain and serve with the capon. 

Capon, Roasted and Filled. — Season a well-cleaned capon in- 
side with 1 even teaspoonf ul salt, and stuff it with the following force- 
meat : Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter and Yg pint water over 
the fire ; as soon as it boils add 1 even cupful flour ; stir until it 
forms into a smooth paste and loosens from bottom of saucepan ; re- 
remove and put the paste into a bowl ; when nearly cold add the yolks 
of 2 eggs and 1 whole egg ; chop % pound of lean veal very fine with 
6 ounces suet or veal fat ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Y2 even 
teaspoonful pepper, % teaspoonful nutmeg, Y2 teaspoonful thyme ; 
mix all well together, then place the meat in a wooden chopping bowl 
and pound it fine with a potato masher ; add the cooked paste in 
small portions, and pound the whole thoroughly. Then place a 
saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the fire, add 1 fine-chopped onion, 
cook 5 minutes ; add 6 fine-chopped mushrooms, cook 3 minutes 
longer ; add this to the above preparation. Loosen the skin from 
the breast of a well-cleaned capon ; put a layer of this forcemeat 



POULTRY. 393 

over the breast under the skin, fill the remaining forcemeat into 
the body, sew it up ; twist the wings over the back ; run a skewer 
through the thigh and body ; tie it firmly with strings ; season with 
1 even tablespoonful salt ; cover the breast with a large thin slice of 
larding pork ; spread 2 ounces butter over the capon ; place it in a 
roasting pan, set it in a medium-hot oven, roast and baste frequently 
with its own gravy till light brown all over ; then add a little broth 
from the giblets, which should be boiled in water ; continue to 
roast and baste till done, which will take about V-j^ hour. Shortly 
before serving, melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoon- 
ful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add IY2 cupful giblet broth, and 
cook 5 minutes. Lay the capon on a warm dish, remove threads 
and skewers, free the gravy from fat ; add the gravy to the sauce in 
saucepan, cook a few minutes ; then strain into a clean saucepan, 
add Y2 cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, and if necessary a little 
salt ; then serve with the capon. 

Capon with Bread Filling. — Soak 4 ounces stale baker's 
bread in cold water till soft ; press out all the water ; put the 
bread into a bowl. Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan ; add Yg 
gill fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes without browning ; add to 
the bread ; season with 1 even teaspoonf ul salt, Yg even teaspoonful 
pepper,3 well-beaten eggs, and Y2 teaspoonful thyme ; mix all the 
ingredients well together ; loosen the skin from the breast of a well- 
cleaned capon ; put the bread dressing over the breast under the 
skin ; fill also the crop ; sew it up ; run a skewer through the thigh 
and body ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt ; then roast and 
finish the same as in foregoing recipe. The fine-chopped liver of 
the capon may be added to the above bread filling. Capon may 
also be stuffed with oyster forcemeat, chestnut puree, and plain 
bread filling, 

TURKEY. 

Turkey roasted a I'Alleraande.— Select a young turkey 
10 pounds in weight ; singe, draw, and wash quickly in cold water ; 
wipe dry with a towel ; then season inside with Y2 tablespoonful 



394 POULTRY. 

salt ; fill the crop and body with f orcement described below. Sew 
the turkey up, twist the wings over its back, run a skewer through 
the thighs into the body ; pass a string across the back of the bird, 
crossing it below the breast, then catch it over the points of the 
skewer, cross the string again, and tie it in the back. Eub 1 table- 
spoonful salt all over the turkey, and lay in a roasting pan ; spread 2 
ounces butter over the breast ; then place the pan in a medium-hot 
oven to roast ; turn often and baste freely with its own gravy, till 
the bird is light brown on all sides ; add 1 cupful boiling water, 
continue to roast, basting frequently till done, which will take 
about 2 Yg hours ; or you may allow 15 minutes to a pound. Place 
the giblets in a saucepan over the fire ; cover with cold water ; add 
Ya teaspoonful salt ; when it boils add 1 onion, and cook till done. 
Shortly before serving, lay the turkey on a warm dish, remove 
threads, strings, and skewers, also the fat from the gravy. Mix 1 
tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the 
gravy, stir this over the fire, and cook 3 minutes ; add sufficient 
giblet broth to make a creamy sauce, cook 5 minutes ; then strain ; 
chop the giblets fine, add them to the sauce, and serve. 

FoKCEMEAT FOR TuRKEY A l'Allemakde. — Soak a 5-cent loaf 
of bread in cold water until soft, then inclose it in a towel and press 
it dry. Place a saucepan with 4 tablespoonfuls of fine-chopped 
onion over the fire ; add 1 ounce butter, stir and cook 5 minutes 
without browning; add the bread, continue to stir and cook 5 min- 
utes ; turn the bread into a dish, and when cold mix it with 1 pound 
of fine-chopped fresh pork from the loin or tenderloin ; season with 
1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, Ys teaspoon- 
ful nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful thyme, and the yolks of 2 eggs ; mix all 
well together, and use as directed above. In place of the above 
forcemeat, oyster or veal forcemeat may be used, and in place of 
fresh pork, sausage meat may be taken. 

Turkey roasted with Bread Dressing.— Prepare the tur- 
key the same as in foregoing recipe ; soak a small loaf of baker's 
bread without the rind for 10 minutes in cold water, then inclose 



POULTRY. 395 

it in a towel and press it dry. Place a saucepan with 2 fine-chopped 
onions and 2 ounces of butter over the fire ; cook 5 minutes with- 
out browning ; then add the bread, stir and cook 5 minutes longer ; 
turn the bread into a bowl, and, when cold, add 1 teaspoonful salt, 
72 teaspoonful pepper, 1 teaspoonful thyme, and 2 whole eggs; 
mix all the ingredients well together ; use and finish the turkey as 
in foregoing recipe. 

Turkey roasted with Bread Dressing, American Style. 

— Eemove the crust from a 1-pound loaf of stale baker's bread ; rub 
white part fine, and put the crumbs into a bowl; add 2 ounces 
melted butter, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Vg even teaspoonful pepper, 
1 teaspoonful thyme, and 1 well-beaten egg ; mix all well together ; 
season the crop and body of a well-cleaned turkey with 1 even table- 
spoonful salt, fill in the bread dressing, sew it up ; finish the same 
as in foregoing recipe. 

Turkey roasted with Sage Dressing. — Prepare and roast 
a turkey the same as roasted turkey a I'allemande. Soak 1 pound 
of stale bread without the rind 10 minutes in cold water, press out 
all the water through a cloth ; place a saucepan with 1 gill of fine- 
chopped onions and 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire ; cook 5 
minutes without browning ; add this to the bread ; then add 4 
ounces sausage meat, Y2 tablespoonful salt, Yg teaspoonful pepper, 1 
teaspoonful sage, and 2 whole eggs ; mix all well together, and use 
as directed in former recipe ; 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley 
may be added. 

Turkey roasted with Chestnut Dressing.— Place a sauce- 
pan with IY2 pound large chestnuts over the fire, cover with boil- 
ing water, cook 20 minutes ; then drain off the water ; remove the 
shells and brown skin ; put half of the chestnuts in a saucepan, 
add 1 pint of milk, and 1 ounce butter ; cook until the nuts are 
soft ; then mash them fine, turn them into a bowl, and when cold 
add 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, Ys pound 
sausage meat, and the remaining whole chestnuts ; mix all well to- 



396 POULTRY. 

gether. In the meantime singe, draw, and wasli a young turkey 
10 pounds in weight; wipe it dry; season the inside with Yj 
tablespoonful salt ; loosen the skin from the breast, put a layer of 
the above dressing over the breast under the skin ; fill the crop and 
body with the same dressing, sew it up, twist the wings backward. 
Thread a trussing needle with a strong, white cord, pass it through 
the thigh and body to the other thigh, direct the needle back again, 
and let it come out again at the same thigh into which the needle 
first went ; tie the 2 cords together on one side, cut off the cord ; 
then run the needle and cord through 1 wing, take up the skin of 
the neck, fasten it down to the back, then pass the needle through 
the other wing, tighten and tie the strings in the back, so that the 
wings and thighs are well attached to the body. Then rub 1 table- 
spoonful salt all over the turkey ; spread 2 ounces of butter over 
the breast and thighs. Place the fowl in a roasting pan and set it 
in a hot oven ; roast and baste frequently with its own gravy ; as 
soon as brown on one side, turn it over ; continue until the turkey 
has become a delicate brown on all sides ; then add Yg pint of boil- 
ing water or giblet broth, and roast and baste till done. Shortly 
before serving, lay the turkey on a warm dish and remove the 
threads and strings ; free the gravy from fat ; mix 1 tablespoonful 
cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water ; add it to the gravy, stir, and 
cook 2 minutes over the fire ; add sufficient giblet broth to make a 
creamy sauce, and cook 5 minutes ; strain, and serve with the tur- 
key. Serve with cranberry sauce and celery salad ; also vegetables, 
like mashed potatoes, stewed peas, and sweet potatoes, may be 
served with it. Turkey may be roasted without stuffing ; or the 
crop may be stuffed only. 

Boiled Turkey a rAllemande. — Select a fine young turkey 
5 to 6 pounds in weight ; singe, draw, and wash it, run a trussing 
needle with a fine cord through the thigh and body to the other 
thigh, and tie it in the back ; then run it through the wings and 
the skin of the neck, fastening it to the back. Place the turkey in 



POULTRY. 397 

a soup kettle ; cover with boiling water ; add 1 heaping tablespoon- 
f ul salt, a large bouquet, and 3 onions ; cover and cook slowly till 
done ; 15 minutes before serving melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, 
add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; then 
add 1 pint of the strained broth, and, if handy, 1 gill of mushroom 
liquor, 6 whole peppers, and Y4 teaspoonful nutmeg, cook 5 minutes ; 
strain into a clean saucepan, mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Y2 cupful 
cream ; add it to the sauce, let it get hot, but not boiling ; add 1 
tablespoonful lemon juice, and, if necessary, a little salt. Place the 
turkey on a warm dish, remove the cord, and serve with the sauce ; 
arrange in clusters small cooked cauliflower roses, 18 cooked carrot 
balls, and 12 small cooked white onions around the turkey. 

Boiled Turkey with Celery Sauce. — Boil a turkey the same 
as in the foregoing recipe. Boil until tender 4 celery roots from 
table celery, with Yg teaspoonful salt and Y2 ounce butter. In the 
meantime melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan ; add 1 tablespoonful 
flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add Y4 pint of the strained turkey 
broth, cook 5 minutes ; when the celery is done, cut it first into 
slices, then into narrow strips, and add it to the sauce ; mix the 
yolks of 2 eggs with Y4 cup of cream, add it to the sauce ; add last 
1 tablespoonful lemon juice ; keep the saucepan a few minutes with- 
out boiling over the fire ; then serve with the turkey. 

Turkey with Oyster Sauce. — Boil a turkey the same as 
turkey a I'allemande. For the sauce, place 18 medium-sized oys- 
ters without their liquor in a saucepan over the fire ; add 2 table- 
spoonfuls lemon juice, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y2 even teaspoonful 
pepper, 1 ounce butter, stir and cook a few minutes or until the 
oysters begin to ruffle ; tben set them aside. Mix in a clean sauce- 
pan IY2 tablespoonful flour with 1 gill of cold water and the yolks 
of 2 eggs ; add slowly IY2 cupful strained turkey broth ; stir this 
over the fire until just before boiling ; then add Y2 cupful cream and 
the oysters, stir a few minutes over the fire without letting it boil ; 
taste, and, if necessary, add more salt. Serve at once with the 



398 POULTRY. 

turkey. Boiled turkey may be served with the following sauces : 
Egg, caper, lobster, crab, shrimp, bechamel, and Hollandaise. 

Turkey roasted Plain. — Singe, draw, and wash a young 
turkey, wipe it dry, and season with 1 tablespoonf ul salt ; twist the 
wings over the back, run a small skewer through the skin of the 
neck and fasten it on to the back, put a skewer through the thigh 
and body. Lay 2 ounces butter over the turkey ; place the pan in 
a medium-hot oven ; roast and baste frequently till the turkey is 
light brown on all sides ; then add a little water, continue to roast, 
basting frequently till done, allowing 15 minutes to a pound. 
Shortly before serving lay the turkey on a hot dish, remove the 
strings and skewers ; free the gravy from fat ; add a little bouillon, 
let it boil 2 minutes ; then strain, and serve with the turkey. 

Turkey dressed with Truiiles, French Style.— After 
drawing, singeing, and washing a good-sized turkey, flatten the 
breastbone. Melt 1 pound of fresh fine-chopped leaf lard, and when 
hot put in 2 pounds of truffles ; let it cool off a little ; then fill the 
lard and truffles into the turkey ; sew up, and set in a cool place 
for 2 or 3 days. When ready to roast, put the turkey into a drip- 
ping pan, cover with thin slices of larding pork, and tie buttered 
paper around it ; baste first with melted butter and a little water, 
afterward with its own gravy. Eemove the paper and pork Yg hour 
before serving ; sprinkle with salt ; let the turkey get nice and 
brown, basting frequently till done ; in serving take out the truffles, 
cut the breast of the fowl into even slices ; put them back to their 
former place and lay the truffles around it. Serve with truffle sauce. 
A turkey may be roasted the same way without the truffles. Pheas- 
ant and capon can be dressed and roasted in the same way. 

COLD TURKEY. 

Turkey a la Bechamel. — Cut the remnants of roast or boiled 

turkey into small pieces ; crack the bones and place them in a 

saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 1 onion, and boil 1 hour ; 

then strain the broth through a napkin. Melt 1 tablespoonf ul 



. POULTRY. 399 

butter, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir a few minutes ; add lYg cup- 
ful of the turkey broth, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 12 whole peppers, 
a small bouquet, and, if handy, 1 gill of mushroom liquor, cook 6 
minutes ; then strain the sauce into a clean saucepan, add Y2 cupful 
cream or milk, Ys teaspoonful nutmeg, and IY2 pint of the fine-cut 
turkey meat ; let it simmer 10 minutes ; add lastly 2 tablespoonf uls 
lemon juice, and serve on a hot dish with a border of nudles or rice 
timbales, croutons, or over toast. 

Turkey Curry. — Place a saucepan with 1 gill of fine-chopped 
onions and 1 ounce butter over the fire, cook 5 minutes; add Y2 
tablespoonful curry powder and 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 
2 minutes ; add 1 cupful broth, 1 cupful milk, 1 even teaspoonful 
salt, and IY2 pint fine-cut turkey meat, cook slowly 10 minutes ; 
then serve in a border of rice. 

Silan Curry of Turkey. — Exactly the same as in foregoing 
recipe, only adding 1 cupful fresh grated cocoanut and 1 gill of 
cream to it. 

Turkey Salad. — Cut remnants of cold cooked turkey into 
small pieces ; put them with an equal amount of fine-cut table 
celery in a salad dish, add 2 fine-cut hard-boiled eggs ; then prepare 
following mayonnaise : Put 2 whole eggs into a small saucepan, beat 
them with an egg beater till very light ; add by degrees Ys cupful 
oil, then add slowly 4 tablespoonfuls white vinegar ; set the sauce- 
pan in hot water over the fire, and stir till it begins to thicken ; re- 
move, place in cold water ; when perfectly cold add slowly 4 table- 
spoonfuls more oil ; then add 2 teaspoonfuls sugar, 1 teaspoonful 
salt, 1 tablespoonful French mustard, and lastly Y2 pint of whipped 
cream (or Y2 cupful unsweetened condensed milk). Mix some of 
the mayonnaise with the turkey meat and celery ; smooth it with a 
knife, cover with the same mayonnaise ; lay a border of lettuce 
leaves around the edge of dish, and some hard-boiled eggs, cut into 
quarters, tastefully over the salad. This salad can also be made of 
cold roasted veal or chicken. 



400 POULTRY. 

Croquettes of Cold Turkey. — Cut remnants of cooked turkey 
into small pieces ; place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the 
fire, add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; 
then add lYg cupful broth, 1 even teaspoonful salt, G whole peppers, 
and a bouquet, cook 5 minutes ; remove the bouquet and peppers, 
add 2 cupfuls turkey meat, and, if handy, Yg cupful fine-cut mush- 
rooms, stir and cook 10 minutes ; add the yolks of 3 eggs, stir 2 
minutes ; turn the contents on to a flat dish, and set in a cool 
place. Thirty minutes before serving, take small portions the size 
of an egg with a tablespoon from the mixture, dip into beaten egg, 
roll in fresh grated bread crumbs, and form into cork-shaped cro- 
quettes. Place a frying pan with good beef fat or lard over the fire, 
when hot put in as many croquettes as will conveniently lie in the 
pan ; fry to a fine golden color on all sides ; lay for a few minutes 
on blotting or brown paper ; then dress on a hot dish, and serve 
with bechamel sauce. 

Turkey and Oysters. — Take some roasted turkey bones and 
chop them fine into pieces ; place them in a saucepan, cover with 
cold water ; as soon as it boils add 1 sliced onion and a bouquet ; 
boil 40 minutes ; then strain off the broth. Melt 1 tablespoonful 
butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook 3 minutes ; 
add 1 pint of the broth, cook 2 minutes ; add 1 pint fine-cut cooked 
turkey meat, cover and cook 5 minutes. Scald Ya pint of oysters 
in their liquor, then drain them in a sieve, add the oysters to the 
turkey, cook 2 minutes ; add pepper and salt to taste, and serve on 
buttered toast. 

Cold Turkey in Jelly. — Chop the cold turkey meat very fine, 
put the cracked bones, skin, and gravy in a saucepan with 1 or 2 
calf's or pig's feet or 1 pound of rind of fresh pork, cover with 
water ; add a bouquet and 2 onions ; boil until the feet fall apart. 
Then strain through a fine sieve, and reduce the liquor by boiling it 
down to 1 quart ; add Ys cup of vinegar, a little sugar, and the 
beaten whites of 2 eggs ; boil slowly 5 minutes, and strain through 



POULTRY. 401 

a jelly bag. Take an equal quantity of this jelly and fine-minced 
turkey meat, put them together over the fire, and let them simmer 
for a few minutes ; then pour it into a bowl, and set in a cool place. 
Put the remaining jelly into a separate dish. When ready to serve, 
cut it into slices and garnish with plain-chopped jelly. 

Turkey BagO'ftt. — Cut the cold turkey meat into small square 
pieces. Put the cracked bones, scraps, and gravy in a saucepan, 
cover with water ; add a small bouquet, 1 onion, boil 1 hour ; then 
strain the broth through a fine sieve. Take for 1 quart of turkey 
meat, 3 fine-chopped onions, fry them in 1 spoonful butter light 
brown ; add 1 tablespoonf ul flour, stir until light brown ; add 1 pint 
of broth, season with 1 teaspoonful salt and Yg teaspoonful pepper, 
and boil 5 minutes ; then put in the meat, and let simmer for 10 
minutes. In the meantime prepare some meat balls : Chop 2 pork 
chops fine, add a little fine-minced turkey meat, Yg cupful bread 
crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls water, Ys tablespoonful melted butter, and 
1 egg ; season with salt and pepper. Shape the mixture into small 
balls, and boil them 6 minutes in salted water. Serve the ragout on 
a hot dish, and lay the meat balls around it. 

Boned Turkey. — Singe, draw, and wash a fine plump young 
turkey of 8 pounds ; cut off the feet to the first joints, also the 
wings and the neck close to the body ; bone it, cut the skin through 
to the bone the whole length of the back ; then loosen the flesh 
from the bone with a small knife, first the one side, then the other, 
being careful not to make any holes in the skin. Make an incision 
from the first joint, then bone both legs ; bone the wings the same 
way, so that the entire skeleton is separated from the meat. Clean 
the skeleton and giblets, place them in a soup kettle over the fire, 
cover with cold water. Spread the turkey out on a napkin, the 
skin toward the napkin, and with a sharp knife cut away even 
slices from the breast and lay them on the thin parts, so that the 
turkey has an even thickness all over. Draw the legs and wings 
inside, season the inside with 1 tablespoonful salt and 1 teaspoonful 



402 POULTRY. 

white pepper evenly distributed. Set the turkey meat aside until 
the following forcemeat is prepared : Take 2 pounds of lean veal, 1 
pound pork tenderloins or fresh pork off the loin, Yg pound larding 
pork ; chop the 3 ingredients exceedingly fine or have them ground 
in the machine, season with 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pep- 
per, Ya teaspoonful nutmeg. Cut Y2 pound of cooked beef tongue 
into Ys-inch square pieces, cut 12 truffles the same way ; add 
both to the forcemeat, add Ys gill of sherry wine, and 4 ounces 
pistachio nuts ; mix all well together, then place the forcemeat in the 
center of the turkey, draw the back together and sew it up ; gently 
lift it, and lay in the center of the napkin ; roll carefully in the nap- 
kin, tie tightly on both ends and once in the middle with a tape. 
As soon as the kettle with the remnants boils add 2 onions with 3 
cloves stuck in each one, a bouquet, and Y2 tablespoonful salt ; then 
put in the turkey, cover, and boil slowly 2Y2 hours. When done, re- 
move the turkey with a skimmer, letting it cool off a little, cut the 
tapes and roll the turkey over again as before, and tightly tie on 
both ends. Lay on a flat dish, cover with a board the same size as 
the turkey, place 2 or 3 flatirons on top, or some weight, let it 
stand 12 hours. 

Aspic or Jelly for Boned Turkey. — Strain the broth in 
which the turkey was boiled through a napkin, remove every 
particle of fat ; place 3 pints broth in a saucepan over the fire ; 
soak 2 ounces gelatin in Ys pi^t cold water till soft, add it to the 
chicken broth in saucepan. Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff 
froth, add the juice of 1 lemon and a little cold water, stir this into 
the chicken broth, beat thoroughly with an egg beater, and boil 5 
minutes ; then draw the kettle to side of stove, letting it stand 5 
minutes ; taste, and if not sour enough, add a little vinegar, and 
more salt if necessary. In the meantime lay a napkin in a sieve, 
place the sieve over a saucepan, then set the saucepan into a vessel 
of boiling water over the fire. Pour the jelly into the napkin, a 
little at first ; then examine, and if not clear enough pour it back 



POULTRY. 403 

again ; continue until all is strained ; pour the jelly into a mold 
and set aside to cool. When ready to serve cut the turkey into 
slices, arrange them nicely on a dish, and garnish with chopped 
jelly. Another way is to pour some jelly before it is firm on the 
dish on which the turkey is to be served 1 inch in thickness and 
set aside till firm ; pour also jelly into small fancy molds and set 
them aside till firm. Arrange the sliced turkey over the jelly on 
the dish, open the small molds, and lay the jelly in a circle around 
the dish ; or pour the aspic in a shallow tin pan, and when cold cut 
into fancy shapes. 

Turkey in Aspic. — Prepare the boned turkey the same as in 
foregoing recipe, take it from the press, remove the napkin, and 
wipe the turkey dry with a clean towel or napkin. Take a square 
pan Y2 inch larger all around than the turkey, set it into cracked 
ice. Have double the quantity of aspic prepared as in foregoing 
recipe, put sufficient of it into the pan to cover the bottom ; when 
this is firm turn the form over on its side, pour in some cold aspic, 
let it get firm, turn the form, pour in more aspic ; continue turning 
the form and adding aspic until the whole form has obtained a 
complete lining thereof. Then cut the white of hard-boiled eggs 
and some truffles into fancy shapes, or instead boiled beets, green 
pickles, and lemon rind ; take each piece separately up with a lard- 
ing needle ; have some aspic standing on ice, and when it begins to 
thicken dip the needle with the decoration into the aspic, then lay 
it into the form, first on the bottom and then on all sides ; set the 
form upright in the ice, pour in more aspic so the bottom decora- 
tion is entirely covered. When firm lay in the turkey with the 
breast toward the decoration, pour Yg pint of aspic in the form, let 
it get firm, then add gradually more aspic ; continue this until the 
form is full. Let stand until it becomes firm. Shortly before 
serving take the form from the ice, turn it upside down on the dish 
it is to be served in, hold a hot wet towel around the form until the 
gelatin slips out of it. Garnish with water cress and serve. 



404 POULTRY. 



GEESE. 



Goose roasted with Apple Dressing. — Singe, draw, and wash 
a fine, tender goose, wipe it dry ; season the inside with Yg even 
tablespoonful salt ; then stuff it with apple dressing, described be- 
low ; sew it up ; rub 1 tablespoonful salt all over it ; turn the skin 
of the neck backward and secure it with a small skewer, or sew it 
on to the back ; twist the wings back, and run a skewer through 
the thigh and body ; lay the goose in a roasting pan, spread 1 
tablespoonful butter over the breast, set in a hot oven to roast, 
baste frequently and turn often till the goose is light brown on all 
sides ; then add 1 cup of boiling water, continue to roast till done, 
allowing 15 minutes to a pound. Place the giblets in a saucepan, 
cover with cold water ; add Yg teaspoonf ul salt, and when it boils 
add 1 small onion, cook IY2 hour ; then strain the broth and chop 
the liver fine. Shortly before serving, lay the goose on a hot dish, 
remove skewers and thread, take off the fat from the gravy ; mix 
1 tablespoonful of cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the 
sauce, stir and cook 3 minutes on top of the stove ; then add sufficient 
giblet broth to make a creamy sauce, boil 5 minutes ; strain ; add 
the fine-chopped liver, and serve with the goose. Serve with Brus- 
sels sprouts a la creme, apple sauce, and boiled potatoes. 

Apple Dressing. — Pare and cut into quarters 8 large greening 
apples, remove the cores ; place the apples in a saucepan over the 
fire ; add Ys cupful cold water, cover and cook till tender, but not 
broken ; remove, and when cold rub 4 ounces stale baker's bread 
into crumbs, mix them with the apples; add IY2 tablespoonful 
sugar, 1 ounce melted butter, and 1 egg ; mix all well together, and 
use as directed above. 

Goose roasted with Potato Dressing.— Prepare a fine 

young goose the same way as in foregoing recipe, stuff it with potato 
dressing, finish the same as in foregoing recipe. 

Potato Dressing. — Peel and wash 12 medium-sized potatoes 



POULTRY. 405 

place them in a saucepan with. 1 quart cold water over the fire, add 
one tablespoonful salt, cover and cook till done ; then drain and 
steam them for a few minutes over the fire ; mash fine, add 1 ounce, 
butter, 1 even teaspoonful white pepper, and the yolk of 1 egg ; 
beat the white to a stiff froth and add it to the potatoes. Melt 1 
ounce butter in a small saucepan, add 3 fine-chopped white onions, 
cook and stir 5 minutes without browning ; add them to the pota- 
toes with 1 teaspoonful thyme; mix all well together, and use 
as directed above. If liked, a little sage may be added. 

Goose roasted with Raisin Dressing.— Place a saucepan 
with IY3 ounce butter over the fire ; add 2 cupfuls fine-sliced apples, 
1 cupful seedless raisins, 1 tablespoonful currant or apple jelly, 2 
tablespoonfuls sugar ; cover and cook till the apples are done but 
not broken ; then remove ; when cold, add 2 cupfuls rolled zwie- 
back and 1 egg. Singe, draw, and wash a fine young goose, season 
the inside with Y2 tablespoonful salt, stuff it with the filling de- 
scribed above ; sew it up and truss nicely ; rub 1 tablespoonful salt 
all over the goose, lay it in a roasting pan, spread 1 ounce butter 
over the breast, set in a hot oven, baste frequently, turning the 
goose often until light brown all over ; then add 1 cupful boiling 
water, continue to roast and baste till done, adding a little more 
water if necessary. Shortly before serving lay the goose on a hot 
dish, remove skewers and thread ; free the gravy from fat, mix 1 
tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the 
gravy, and cook 2 minutes ; then add suflBcient giblet broth to 
make a creamy sauce, cook 3 minutes ; strain and serve with the 
goose. 

Goose roasted with Chestnut Dressing. — Singe, wash, and 
draw a fine young goose, season inside with Yg tablespoonful salt. 
Place 1 pound large chestnuts in a saucepan, cover with cold water, 
cook 20 minutes, drain on a sieve, remove the shells and the brown 
skin ; return chestnuts to saucepan, cover with milk, add 2 ounces 
butter, and cook till tender ; mash them fine with a potato masher. 



406 POULTRY. 

turn into a bowl, and when cold mix with Yg cupful grated bread 
crumbs, the fine-chopped goose liver, Yg pound sausage meat, Y2 even 
tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper ; stuff the goose with 
this mixture, sew up, truss nicely, rub 1 tablespoonful salt all over ; 
spread 2 ounces butter over the breast, lay in a roasting pan ; add 
Y2 cupful boiling water ; place in a hot oven, roast and baste fre- 
quently till the goose is done. (If the gravy should get too brown, 
add more water, but only a little at a time.) Boil the giblets in 
water with 1 onion and a little salt. Shortly before serving mix 

1 tablespoonful cornstarch with 1 gill of cold water ; lay the goose 
on a hot dish ; remove the fat from gravy, add to the gravy the 
cornstarch, stir and cook 3 minutes ; then add suflficient giblet 
broth to make a creamy sauce, boil 5 minutes ; strain, and serve 
with the goose. 

Goose a la St. Martin. — Singe, draw, and wash a young goose, 
and stuff it with the following forcemeat : Place a small saucepan 
with Y2 cupful fine-chopped onions and 1 ounce butter over the fire, 
cook 5 minutes without browning ; then remove. Soak 1 roll in 
cold water till soft, press out all the water ; put the bread and onions 
in a bowl, add Y2 pound fine-chopped fresh pork, 4 ounces fine- 
chopped larding pork, and Y2 pound fine-chopped veal (if veal is 
not handy, add the fine-chopped goose liver) ; season with Y2 even 
tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, Y2 teaspoonful nut- 
meg, 1 whole egg, 2 yolks ; pound this in a mortar well together. 
Fill the forcemeat into the goose, sew up, run a skewer through the 
thigh and body, twist the wings backward, season with 1 tablespoon- 
ful salt ; place the goose in a double pan, pour over 2 ounces melted 
butter, put on the cover, and set in a hot oven ; open the pan every 
15 minutes, and baste the goose well with its own gravy ; roast from 

2 to 3 hours. In the meantime place 1 pound large chestnuts in a 
saucepan over the fire, cook 20 minutes ; drain, and remove the 
shells and brown skins ; return to the fire, add 1 pint boiling water, 
1 teaspoonful sugar, and boil till tender ; melt Y2 tablespoonful but- 



POULTRY. 407 

ter, add Yg tablespoonf ul flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 cup 
of stock or boiling water with 1 teaspoonful beef extract, a small 
bouquet, and 6 whole peppers, cook 5 minutes ; then strain through 
a sieve into a clean saucepan, season with Yg even teaspoonful salt ; 
drain the chestnuts, add them to the sauce, cook a few minutes, 
then set aside. When ready to serve, lay the goose on to a carving 
board, remove threads and skewers, carve it nicely ; cut the force- 
meat into slices ; lay the carved meat on a warm plate, arrange the 
chestnuts in clusters alternately with the slices of forcemeat in a 
circle around the dish, and serve. Kemove all fat from the gravy, 
add 1 gill of stock, let it boil a few minutes ; then strain, and serve 
with the goose. 

Goose Braisee a la Flamande. — Place in a soup kettle a 
well-cleaned young goose, cover with stock or boiling water ; add 2 
onions, a small carrot, a bouquet, 1 tablespoonful salt, 12 whole 
peppers, and Yg bottle of Ehine wine, and boil slowly till done. At 
the same time cut a medium-sized Savoy cabbage into quarters or 6 
pieces ; place them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, cook 20 
minutes ; then drain oif the water. Place 1 pound lean bacon in a 
saucepan, cover with cold water, boil 1 hour ; remove it to a clean 
saucepan, put the cabbage on top the bacon, add six small sausages, 
2 onions, and a bouquet, cover with fresh boiling water, and cook 
till done. Thirty minutes before serving lay the goose in a roasting 
pan, add 1 pint of the strained broth in which the goose was boiled, 
place in a hot oven, baste frequently, and roast until it has a nice 
glaze ; then carve nicely, and lay on a warm dish. Strain the broth 
in which the goose was boiled, remove the fat, reduce the broth 
by boiling. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add 1 heap- 
ing tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 pint of the 
broth and the gravy from the pan, boil 5 minutes. Drain the cab- 
bage on a sieve, put it into a saucepan, add half of the sauce, toss it 
for a few minutes over the fire ; then dress the cabbage on a warm 
dish, lay the carved goose over it, the best pieces on top, and arrange 



408 POULTKY. 

the bacon and sausages in a circle around the dish ; serve the re- 
maining sauce in a sauce bowl. 

Goose a la Chipolata. — Season a well-cleaned young goose 
■with 1 tablespoonful salt, lay it in a double roasting pan, pour over 
2 ounces melted butter, and put the goose fat in the bottom of pan ; 
cover the pan tightly, and place it in a hot oven to roast ; baste the 
goose with its own gravy every 15 minutes, roast until done. Re- 
move the shells and brown skins from Yg pound large chestnuts, 
place the nuts in a saucepan, cover with stock, add 1 teaspoonful 
sugar, and boil till done and nearly dry. Melt 1 ounce butter in a 
saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful fine-cut raw ham, 1 fine-chopped on- 
ion, 1 parsley root, 1 bay leaf, and 12 whole peppers, stir and cook 5 
minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 
IY2 cupful broth or boiling water with 1 teaspoonful beef extract, 1 
even teaspoonful salt, cook 5 minutes ; then strain the sauce into a 
clean saucepan, add Y2 pint small mushrooms, 6 small truffles, 1 gill 
of Madeira or sherry wine, a little Cayenne pepper, cook slowly 10 
minutes. Carve and lay the goose on a warm dish, the best pieces 
on top, put Ys pint of cooked carrot balls, Y2 pii^t of small cooked 
onions, the ruffles, and mushrooms in small clusters in a circle 
around the dish ; pour a little sauce over the vegetables, and serve 
the remaining in a sauce bowk 

Goose, Pickled. — Cut a well-cleaned goose into pieces as a 
chicken is cut for fricassee. Place the meat in a saucepan, cover 
with half water and half vinegar, season with 1 tablespoonful 
salt, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful whole peppers, 2 bay 
leaves, 3 onions with 3 cloves stuck into each one, cover and cook 
till tender ; then lay the meat into a stone jar, strain the broth, re- 
move the fat, pour the broth over the meat ; leave the jar open till 
cold, then tie it up with paper, and keep it in a cool place. This 
may be served cold. If wanted hot, place the desired quantity of 
meat and broth in a saucepan over the fire ; as soon as it begins to 
boil melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, 



POULTRY. 409 

stir and cook 2 minutes ; add it to the saucepan, boil 5 minutes ; 
then serve with farina or potato dumplings or plain boiled potatoes. 
Old geese may be taken for pickling ; if they should have a tendency 
to be oily, put them in a large kettle of boiling water, add to every 
goose 1 tablespoonf ul baking soda, boil 30 minutes ; then take them 
out and plunge into cold water ; wash the geese inside and outside 
several times in cold water, then cut them into pieces, and proceed 
as directed above. 

Ganseklein or Schwarzsauer. — Take the wings, feet, neck, 
heart, gizzard, and the blood of several geese. Put the feet for 1 
minute into boiling water, then take them out, rub off the skin, cut 
off the nails, remove the eyes from the head, chop off the bill, cut 
the neck into 3, the wings into 2 pieces ; wash all in cold water, 
place in a saucepan, and cover with water. Set the saucepan over 
the fire, add to every quart of water Yg tablespoonful salt, 2 onions 
with 3 cloves stuck into each one, 1 bay leaf, 12 whole peppers, 3 
sprigs of parsley tied together with 1 sprig of thyme, cover and 
cook till tender. Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 2 table- 
spoonfuls flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 quart from the 
broth in which the goose trimmings are cooked, boil 5 minutes ; 
add the blood and sufficient vinegar to give it a nice sour taste ; 
add 1 tablespoonful sugar and Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cook 2 min- 
utes ; then strain into a clean saucepan ; take the goose pieces with 
a skimmer from the saucepan, put them in the sauce, and serve 
with bread, farina, or potato dumplings. 

Pate Froifl de Foie Gras. — Trim nicely 2 large fat goose 
livers, procure also 1 pound of truffles ; cut 2 ounces of truffles into 
narrow strips, and lard the livers with them ; place the livers and 
the remaining truffles into a bowl, season them with 1 tablespoon- 
ful spiced salt ; chop the trimmings of liver and truffles very fine. 
Fry 2 ounces of larding pork in a saucepan until it begins to turn a 
light delicate brown, add 2 fine-chopped onions, cook 5 minutes 
without browning ; add the fine-chopped liver trimmings ; remove 



410 POULTRY. 

from fire, put it in a bowl ; add 1 pound fine-chopped fresh fat 
pork, 1 pound fine-chopped pork tenderloin, and Yg gill of rum ; 
pound these ingredients to a fine paste, season with 1 tablespoonful 
spiced salt (or season to taste). Put a layer 1 inch thick of this 
forcemeat into a tureen, over this 1 liver cut into halves ; cover with 
a layer of forcemeat and truffles, lay over the halves of the second 
liver ; again cover with forcemeat and lay over this slices of larding 
pork, then put on the cover of the tureen and place it in a pan of 
hot water. Set the pan in a medium-hot oven, and bake from 2 to 
2y2 hours, then remove and set aside to cool. If the pdte is to be 
used at once ; boil 1 gill of Madeira wine with 1 spoonful beef ex- 
tract for 5 minutes ; pour it over the pdte while yet warm. If in- 
tended to be kept for any length of time, remove the pork, pour 
over first some melted aspic, and then some melted leaf lard, put on 
the cover, pasting a strip of paper around it. The pate is generally 
served in a border of clear aspic. Dip a tablespoon into hot water, 
then cut with the spoon small portions the size of an egg out of the 
pdte, lay them in the border, and put on ice till serving. In place of 
baking the pdte in a tureen, a tin form with a tight-fitting cover 
may be taken. All pates, either made in tureens or tin forms, are 
served the same way. 

Aspic de Foie Gras. — Lard 2 large fat goose livers with truf- 
fles, and place them on a low saucepan ; place another saucepan 
with 4 ounces fine-cut larding pork over the fire, fry for a few min- 
utes ; add 1 gill of fine-chopped onions, 12 whole peppers, and a 
bouquet, cook and stir 5 minutes ; add 1 pint of chicken or veal 
broth, Yg gill of sherry or Madeira wine, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 
and cook 15 minutes ; strain the liquid over the livers, cover and 
place over a moderate fire, and cook 20 minutes ; remove from fire, 
let the livers cool in the liquor, cut them into slices ; dip each piece 
separately into white Chanfroix sau.ce, and set them on ice till firm. 
Set a plain form into cracked ice, pour in some aspic ; as soon as 
firm, decorate it with the white of hard-boiled eggs cut into fancy 



POULTRY. 411 

shapes and truffles or boiled beef tongue ; pour over a little aspic ; 
when firm put in a layer of liver pieces, cover with aspic ; when 
cold put in the remaining liver, fill the form with aspic, and set 
aside till firm. When ready to serve, turn the aspic on to a round 
dish, and garnish with water cress. Meat of all kinds of game 
may be prepared in the same way. 

Escalops de Foie Gras a la Maintenon.— Cut 3 fat goose 
livers into Yi-inch-thick slices 15 minutes before serving; season 
with 1 even tablespoonful salt, roll in flour, and fry light brown 
in butter. Prepare a fine chicken or veal forcemeat, put it into a 
well-buttered border form, set the form in a pan of hot water, cover 
with buttered paper, and bake 25 minutes in a medium-hot oven. 
When ready to serve, turn the forcemeat border on to a warm dish, 
place the escalops on top, and lay on each one 1 slice of truffle 
(which should have cooked a few minutes in Madeira wine), put 
in the center a ragout prepared as follows : Prepare 1 pint Madeira 
sauce, add Yg pi'it small canned mushrooms, 3 truffles cut into 
slices, cook 10 minutes ; add 12 small chicken balls or veal force- 
meat balls previously boiled in salted water. Pour the ragout in 
the center of the border, and serve. 

Escalops de Foie Gras a la Badoise.— Cut 2 fat goose livers 
into Yi-inch-thick slices (escalops) ; season with salt and pepper, 
dust with flour, then dip in beaten egg, and cover with mixed fresh 
grated bread crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese ; fry light brown 
in boiling fat ; lay them in a circle on a low forcemeat border, and 
place in the center a chestnut puree. Serve with Spanish sauce, or 
place the escalops in two rows on a warm dish, and put between 
them the chestnut puree. 

Escalops de Foie Gras a la Daupliine.— Place a saucepan 
with 1 fine-chopped onion and 1 ounce butter over the fire, add 1 
bay leaf and 12 whole peppers, cook 5 minutes ; then add 1 pint of 
stock, cook 15 minutes. Season 2 goose livers with 1 teaspoonful 
salt, place them in a saucepan, strain over the broth, cook slowly 20 
27 



412 POULTRY. 

minutes ; then remove, and let the livers cool in the broth. Pre- 
pare a Villeroi sauce, cut the livers into even slices, dip into the 
sauce, lay them on a flat dish, let stand till the sauce is firm ; then 
dip them into beaten egg and fresh-grated bread crumbs, and fry in 
hot fat. Arrange the escalops in a circle on a low forcemeat border, 
and put in the center a puree of green peas, or arrange the liver in 
two rows on a hot dish, leaving a space between the rows; fill the 
space with stewed green peas. 

Petites Caisses de Foie Gras. — Take 2 goose livers, season 
them with salt and pepper ; roll them in flour, and fry light brown 
in half butter and half lard. Melt in a small saucepan 1 ounce 
butter, add 1 fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes ; then add 2 table- 
spoonfuls Ehine wine, 1 cupful chicken broth, cook a few minutes ; 
cut the livers into small pieces, add them to the sauce, season with 1 
even teaspoonful salt ; Yg even teaspoonful pepper, cook 5 minutes 
longer; then prepare a chicken forcemeat. Brush the sides of 6 
small paper boxes with buttei", and dry them in the oven for a few 
minutes ; press evenly on the sides and bottom of each box a spoon- 
ful of the forcemeat ; put the above preparation in the center ; 
cover each box with a thin slice of larding pork, and bake 12 min- 
utes in a hot oven ; remove the pork, put a little sauce over each 
one, and serve. 

Petites Bouchees de Foie Gras. — Wash and season with pep- 
per and salt 2 goose livers, roll in flour and fry them light brown in 
butter. Melt in a small saucepan 1 ounce butter and 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes; then add 4 chopped 
mushrooms, 1 fine-chopped truffle, 1 tablespoonful fine-cut boiled 
ham, 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, cook 5 minutes; add a 
small tablespoonful flour, cook 2 minutes ; then add 2 tablespoonfuls 
white wine, 1 cupful chicken broth, cook a few minutes ; cut the 
livers into small pieces, add them to the sauce, season with 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, Ya even teaspoonful pepper, cook 5 minutes ; fill 
this into 6 hot bouchees (patty cases), and serve. (For the prepara- 



POULTRY. 413 

tion of bronchees, see my book Desserts and Salads, Jelly Tarts, 
recipe 711.) 

DUCK. 

Duck roasted a PAllemande. — Select a fine young duck, 
singe, draw, and wash it quickly in cold water, dry it with a clean 
towel ; season the duck inside with 1 teaspoonful salt, then set aside 
until the filling is prepared. Place a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful 
butter over the fire ; add 1 cupful seedless raisins, Yg cupful cur- 
rants, 1 tablespoonful currant or apple jelly, 2 tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, and 1 heaping pint peeled and sliced apples ; cover and cook 
till the apples are tender, but not broken ; then turn the contents 
of saucepan into a bowl, and when cold add % cupful grated bread 
crumbs and 1 egg, and mix all together ; stuff the duck with this, 
sew it up, twist the wings over the back, run a skewer through the 
thighs and body ; rub 1 even tablespoonful salt all over the duck, 
lay it in a roasting pan, spread 2 ounces butter over the breast, set 
the pan in a medium-hot oven to roast, baste frequently until the 
duck is light brown on all sides ; then add Yg pint of the giblet 
broth described below ; continue to roast, basting frequently until 
the duck is done (if the gravy should get too brown, add a little 
more broth). Place the well-cleaned feet, giblets, and neck in a 
saucepan, cover with cold water ; when it boils, add Y2 teaspoonful 
salt and 1 onion, boil lYs hour ; then strain the broth into a clean 
saucepan. Ten minutes before serving, lay the duck on a warm 
dish, free it from threads and skewers ; remove the fat from the 
gravy ; mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch with Y2 gill of cold water, add 
it to the gravy, stir and cook 3 minutes on top the stove ; add sufii- 
cient giblet broth to make a creamy sauce, cook 5 minutes ; then 
strain the sauce into a small saucepan ; mash the boiled duck liver 
with a spoon or grate it, then add it to the sauce, also a small piece 
of butter, and stir 2 minutes over the fire ; then pour it in a sauce 
bowl, and serve with the duck. 

Duck roasted a rAmericaine.— Select a fine young duck 
weighing about 4 pounds ; singe, draw, and wash it in cold water 



414 POULTRY. 

and dry it with a clean towel, season the inside with 1 teaspoonful 
salt, and stuff it with a preparation made as follows : Peel and wash 
8 medium-sized potatoes ; place them in a saucepan, with 1 quart 
cold water, over the fire ; add 1 tablespoonful salt, cover and boil 
till done, then drain off the water ; return the saucepan for a few 
minutes to the fire to dry the potatoes, then mash them fine. Melt 
2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 1 gill of fine-chopped onions, 
cover and cook 5 minutes without browning the onions ; add them 
to the potatoes ; also add Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, Yg even tea- 
spoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful thyme, V* teaspoonful sage, the yolk of 
1 egg, and last the whites beaten to a stiff froth ; mix all well to- 
gether ; stuff this into the duck, sew it up, run a skewer through 
the body and thigh ; rub 1 even tablespoonful salt all over the duck, 
lay it in a roasting pan, and spread 2 ounces butter over the breast; 
set the pan in a medium-hot oven to roast ; baste and turn fre- 
quently until the duck is of a light-brown color. Place the giblets 
in a saucepan, cover with cold water ; add Y2 teaspoonful salt, and 
when it boils add 1 onion, cook IV2 hour ; then strain the broth. 
As soon as the duck is of a light-brown color on all sides, add 1 cup- 
ful giblet broth ; roast and baste till done. Shortly before serving 
l^y the duck on a warm dish, remove skewer and threads ; free the 
gravy from the fat, mix Y2 tablespoonful cornstarch with a little 
cold water, add it to the gravy, stir and cook 3 minutes on top the 
stove ; add sufficient giblet broth to make a creamy sauce, cook 
5 minutes ; then strain ; pour the sauce into a sauce bowl, and 
serve with the duck. The giblets may be chopped fine and added 
to the gravy if liked. 

Duck roasted in Butter. — Select a pair of fine young ducks, 
singe, draw, wash, and wipe them dry ; season each one with 1 table- 
spoonful salt, rub the salt in and outside all over the duck ; lay 
them in a roasting pan, pour over each one 2 tablespoonfuls melted 
butter ; place the pan in a medium-hot oven (have some melted 
butter in small saucepan, standing on side the stove), roast and 



POULTRY. 415 

baste the ducks frequently with melted butter ; if the gravy in the 
pan should become too brown and show a tendency to burn, pour 
Y2 gill of cold water in the bottom of the pan ; this will check the 
burning at once ; but if the oven is at a medium heat this will not 
be necessary. When ready to serve lay the ducks on a warm dish ; 
remove the fat from the gravy, add a little bouillon or broth to the 
gravy, boil 3 minutes ; then strain and serve with the duck. Serve 
with apple Jelly and lettuce salad. 

Salmi of Duck. — Procure a fine young duck; singe, draw, 
and wash it ; cut oif the wings, breast, and legs ; lay the feet for 1 
minute into boiling water, then take them out, rub off the skin, and 
wash them in cold water ; place them, with the neck, back, and gib- 
lets of the duck, in a saucepan ; add 1 quart of cold water and Y2 tea- 
spoonful salt ; set the saucepan over the fire ; when it begins to boil 
add 1 onion and a bouquet, cook 1 hour ; then strain the broth into 
a clean saucepan ; season the duck with 1 even tablespoonf ul of salt 
and 1 even teaspoonf ul pepper. Place a saucepan with 2 ounces of 
butter over the fire, put in the duck pieces, cover and cook 20 min- 
utes, turning them often with a fork. In the meantime melt 1 ounce 
butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 min- 
utes ; then add 1 pint of the broth mentioned above, also 1 gill of 
Madeira or sherry wine, cook 5 minutes, and add it to the duck ; add 
2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice, cook slowly 15 minutes. Dress the 
salmi on a warm dish, the best pieces on top, and decorate with 6 
heart-shaped bread croutons. 

Salmi of Duck a la Milanaise. — Out the wings, breast, and 
legs from 2 fine, well-cleaned young ducks ; place the backs in a 
roasting pan, pour over a little melted butter, roast 10 minutes ; then 
remove, chop fine, and put them in a saucepan. In the meantime 
place the well-cleaned feet, giblets, and neck in a saucepan over the 
fire ; cover with 1 quart cold water, add 1 teaspoonful salt ; when 
it begins to boil add 1 onion, a small piece of carrot, 13 whole pep- 
pers, and a bouquet, boil 40 minutes ; then strain the broth over 



416 POULTRY. 

the chopped backs in the saucepan, set it over the fire, cook 20 
minutes ; then strain the broth into a saucepan. At the same time 
place a saucepan with 2 ounces butter over the fire, add the breast, 
wings, and legs ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even tea- 
spoonful pepper, Yg teaspoonful nutmeg, cover and cook 15 min- 
utes, turning the pieces often with a fork. In the meantime place 
a saucepan with 1 ounce of butter and 1 fine-chopped onion over 
the fire ; add 1 bay leaf and 12 whole peppers, cook 5 minutes 
without browning ; then add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook and stir 3 
minutes ; add Yg pi^t canned tomatoes and 1 pint of broth described 
above, cook 10 minutes ; then strain the sauce, and add it to the 
ducks in saucepan ; add 1 gill of cooked beef tongue cut into small 
narrow strips, 10 fine-cut mushrooms, cook till done. Dress the 
ducks on a warm dish, and garnish with slices of fried hominy or 
slices of bread fried in butter. 

Duck a la Taleiicia. — Cut the wings, breast, and legs from 2 
young ducks, season them with 1 tablespoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful 
pepper. Place a saucepan with 2 ounces of butter over the fire ; 
add the wings, breast, and legs ; cover and cook 20 minutes, turning 
the pieces over occasionally with a fork. Chop the 2 backs of the 
ducks into small pieces ; place them in a saucepan with 1 ounce 
butter over the fire ; stir and cook 10 minutes ; add IY2 pint of 
broth (made from the cleaned feet, neck, and giblets of the ducks), 
cook 20 minutes ; then strain the stock. Melt 1 tablespoonful but- 
ter in a small saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 
minutes; add the stock described above, also Ys gi^l of Madeira 
wine, 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice, and 1 cupful stoned olives, pre- 
viously parboiled in water ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, and 
Ys even teaspoonful pepper, boil 5 minutes ; then add this sauce to 
the ducks in saucepan, cook until tender ; then serve. Dress on a 
warm dish, and garnish with a border of farina dumplings, fry a few 
tablespoonfuls grated bread crumbs brown in butter, sprinkle them 
over the dumplings, and serve. 



POULTRY. 417 

Duck a la Catalonia. — Cut off the wings, breasts, and legs 
from 2 well-cleaned young ducks, season with 1 tablespoonf ul salt 
and Ys teaspoonful pepper. Place a saucepan with 2 ounces fine-cut 
larding pork over the fire, fry till it begins to turn straw-color ; add 
1 ounce butter or olive oil, a small clove of bruised garlic, and the 
duck pieces ; cover and cook 20 minutes. Place the backs of the 
ducks in a saucepan, cover with cold water, add Yg teaspoonful salt ; 
when it boils add 1 onion and a bouquet, boil 40 minutes ; then 
strain the broth into a clean saucepan. Melt 1 ounce butter in a 
saucepan, add Ys giU fine-chopped onions, 1 tablespoonful fine-cut 
raw ham, 1 tablespoonful grated carrots, 1 bay leaf, 12 whole pep- 
pers, stir and cook 5 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and 
cook 2 minutes ; add lYa pint of broth mentioned above, cook 
slowly 10 minutes ; then strain, add it to the duck in saucepan, and 
cook till tender. Five minutes before serving add 2 tablespoonfuls 
lemon juice. At the same time place a saucepan with Ys pi^t of 
small well-cleaned white onions over the fire, add Ys teaspoonful salt, 
cook 10 minutes ; then drain on a sieve and return them to the 
saucepan, add 1 teaspoonful butter, Y4 teaspoonful salt ; toss them 
for a few minutes over the fire, then set aside. Place at the same 
time 1 pint carrot balls with Y2 tablespoonful sugar in a saucepan 
over the fire, cover with boiling water, and cook till done ; then 
drain off the water, add Y2 ounce butter and Y4 teaspoonful salt, 
toss them for a few minutes over the fire, add them with the onions 
to the duck, cook 5 minutes ; remove from fire and serve on a warm 
dish. 

Salmi of Ducklings. — Season a pair of young ducks with 
salt and pepper, place them in a roasting pan, spread over the 
breasts and thighs 2 ounces butter, place the pan in a medium-hot 
oven, roast and baste frequently with melted butter till done. Ee- 
move the ducks from the pan, cut off the wings, breasts, and legs, 
chop the carcasses into small pieces, place them in a saucepan with 1 
ounce butter, 1 gill of fine-chopped onions, stir and cook 5 minutes ; 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 3 gills of 



418 POULTRY. 

broth, 2 gills of red wine, 1 teaspoonful coarsely pounded peppers, 
and cook 10 minutes. Arrange the duck on a warm dish, strain 
the sauce over it, and decorate with 6 heart-shaped croutons. 

Salmi of Cold Boasted Duck. — Cut the meat of cold roasted 
ducks into nice slices, chop the carcasses into small pieces, place 
them with 1 fine-chopped onion in a saucepan, add 2 cupfuls stock 
or boiling water with 1 teaspoonful beef extract, 1 bay leaf, 2 
cloves, 12 coarsely pounded peppers, ^2 pi^^t red wine, if handy, a 
little fine-cut ham, boil 15 minutes ; then strain this essence into a 
clean saucepan. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add the essences, cook 5 
minutes, then taste ; if necessary, add a little salt ; put in the duck 
meat, let it simmer 10 minutes, then serve with potato croquettes. 

Ducks with Brown Kale. — Strip the leaves from 4 large 
heads of brown kale, wash several times in cold water, place them in 
a large saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water, cook 10 
minutes ; then drain the kale on a sieve, lay it on a chopping board, 
and cut it coarsely with a knife ; return the kale to saucepan again, 
place a well-cleaned duck in the center, add sufficient boiling water 
to barely cover ; season with 1 tablespoonful salt and Yg teaspoonful 
pepper, add 2 fine-chopped onions, and cook till tender ; when the 
duck is done, remove it, lay it on a dish, and set it in a warm place ; 
continue to cook the kale until done, then taste ; if necessary, add 
more salt and serve. 

Ducks aux Olives. — Singe, wash, and draw 2 young ducks, 
truss them nicely, season with 1 tablespoonful salt ; place the ducks 
in a roasting pan, spread 2 ounces butter over the breasts ; place 
the pan in a medium-hot oven and roast till light brown on all 
sides ; then add a bouquet, 1 gill of white broth and 1 gill of white 
wine, cover with buttered paper, and roast till done. Melt 1 ounce 
butter in a saucepan, add V2 gill oi fine-chopped onion, Yg giU 
grated carrots, 1 bay leaf, 12 whole peppers, IY2 giU fine-chopped 
ham, stir and cook 5 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook 2 



POULTRY. 419 

minutes ; add Yg pint broth, Yg gill Madeira wine, 1 even teaspoon- 
ful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, 1 gill mushroom liquor, cook 10 
minutes. Lay the ducks on a warm dish, remove the fat from the 
gravy, add the gravy to the alaove Madeira sauce with 1 teaspoonful 
beef extract, cook for a few minutes, then strain. In the mean- 
time prepare a fine chicken forcemeat. Remove the pits from 1 
pint salted olives, lay them for 15 minutes in cold water, then fill 
them with chicken forcemeat ; butter a plain border form, lay the 
olives in rows over one another, then fill the form with forcemeat ; 
set the form in a pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper, place 
the pan in a medium-hot oven, and bake 30 minutes ; then turn the 
border mold on to a warm dish. Carve the ducks into nice pieces, 
lay them in the border, the best pieces on top, pour over a little of 
the Madeira sauce, and serve the remaining sauce in a sauce bowl. 

Ducks with Sauerkraut. — Place a saucepan with lYs quart 
sauerkraut over the fire, cover with white broth. Place at the same 
time 1 pound lean bacon in another saucepan, cover with cold 
water, boil 1 hour ; then remove the bacon and rinse ofE with cold 
water ; lay the bacon in the center of the sauerkraut and boil till 
done. Lay the bacon on a warm dish, put the kraut in a colander, 
let all the liquid drain off ; return it to the saucepan, add Y2 pint 
Ehine wine, stir and cook 10 minutes ; butter a plain border form, 
put in the sauerkraut, and set it in a warm place. In the meantime 
place 2 well-cleaned young ducks in a braising pot or large low 
saucepan, lay thin slices of pork under the ducks, add 4 ounces raw 
ham, 1 onion, a small carrot, and a bouquet ; lay a few slices of 
pork over the breasts, then add sufficient boiling broth to reach half 
way up the ducks ; add Yg piiit white wine, cover the ducks with a 
buttered paper, put on a tight cover, and cook slowly till the ducks 
are tender, which will take from 1 to IY2 hour. Shortly before 
serving remove the ducks, strain the broth and free it from fat, re- 
duce it by boiling to one half. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add the broth 
from the ducks, also 6 fine-cut mushrooms and 2 fine-cut truffles ; 



420 POULTRY. 

if the sauce is too thin, reduce it by boiling ; if too thick, add a 
little white broth. When ready to serve, turn the sauerkraut out 
of form on a warm dish ; carve the ducks nicely, lay them in the 
center, pour a little of the sauce over the ducks, and serve the re- 
maining sauce in a sauce bowl ; cut the bacon into nice even slices 
and lay them on top the border, and serve. 

Ducks^ Hanovarian Style. — Singe, draw, and wash 2 young 
ducks, season them with 1 tablespoonful salt ; tie over the breast of 
each duck a large thin slice of larding pork, place them in a roast- 
ing pan, spread 1 ounce butter over each one, then set the pan in a 
medium-hot oven, roast and baste frequently with melted butter 
and their own gravy till done. At the same time strip the leaves 
from 3 heads of brown kale, wash it 3 times in cold water ; place 
the kale in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and cook 10 
minutes ; then drain the kale in a colander, place it on a board, and 
chop it coarsely. Place a saucepan with 4 ounces pure leaf lard, 
duck fat, or beef fat over the fire ; add the kale and 1 pint of giblet 
broth, and season with 1 even tablespoonful salt and 1 even teaspoonf ul 
pepper. Place 1 pound of lean bacon in a saucepan, cover with cold 
water, boil 20 minutes ; then lay the bacon in the center of the 
kale, cover and boil till tender. Shortly before serving remove the 
bacon to a warm plate ; pour the kale in a colander, drain off all the 
moisture, then put it into a buttered border form and set it in a 
warm place. Take out the duck, pour the gravy into a saucepan, 
pour off most of the fat, then add 1 tablespoonful flour to the gravy, 
stir and cook over the fire 3 minutes ; add sufficient giblet broth to 
make a creamy sauce, boil 5 minutes ; then strain ; carve the ducks 
nicely, turn the border of kale on to a warm dish, and put the ducks 
inside the border, laying the nice pieces on top ; pour over a little 
of the sauce and serve the remaining sauce in a sauce bowl ; cut the 
bacon into neat slices and lay them on top the border. Place the 
well-cleaned feet, neck, and giblets of the ducks in a saucepan over 
the fire, cover with cold water ; add 1 teaspoonful salt and 1 onion, 
cook 1 hour: then strain, and use as described above. 



POULTRY. 421 



PIGEON. 



Pigeon Cutlets with Olives.— Singe, draw, and wash 3 young 
pigeons, dry them, cut off the necks, wings, and feet, then bone them, 
leaving the legs on, which are pushed through the skin, to give the 
form of a cutlet. Lay the cutlets in a pan with 2 ounces of melted 
butter, place over the fire, and cook 3 minutes on each side ; re- 
move to a plate, press them a little, and set aside to cool. Trim the 
cutlets neatly 15 minutes before serving ; season them with pepper 
and salt ; mix the yolk of 1 egg with 1 ounce cold melted butter ; 
dip the cutlets into the butter, cover with fresh grated bread crumbs, 
lay them on to a hot broiler, and broil light brown on both sides. 
Eemove the pits from 1 pint of salted olives, soak Yg hour in cold 
water, place them with boiling water in a saucepan over the fire, 
cook 5 minutes ; drain and cool in cold water ; when cold, dry and 
stuff them with chicken or veal forcemeat. Place a saucepan with 
1 ounce butter over the fire ; add 1 tablespoonf ul fine-chopped 
onion, the same of grated carrot and fine-cut ham, 1 bay leaf, 12 
whole peppers, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and 
cook 3 minutes ; add 1 pint white broth and 1 even teaspoonful salt, 
cook slowly 10 minutes; then strain the sauce into a clean sauce- 
pan, put in the olives, and cook them slowly 8 minutes. Glaze the 
pigeon cutlets with a little glaze ; dress on a hot dish, and arrange the 
olives on each side of them ; serve the sauce in a sauce bowl. 

Pigeon Cutlets h la Dauphine. — Clean and bone 3 young 
fat pigeons, leaving on the legs and drawing them inside through 
the skin ; lay in a deep frying pan with 2 ounces butter, cook 4 
minutes on each side ; then remove ; lay the cutlets on a flat dish, 
put a light weight over them, and set aside ; when cold trim neatly 
and cover them with Villeroi sauce (see Villeroi Sauce) ; let 
them stand in a cool place till the sauce hardens, then dip the cutlets 
into fresh grated bread crumbs, next into beaten egg, then again 
into bread crumbs ; fry them light brown in hot fat. Arrange the 



422 POULTRY. 

pigeon cutlets in a row, one overlapping the other, on a hot dish, 
and place on each side some stewed green peas (about 1 quart of 
shelled peas in all) or 2 cans of French peas. In place of peas, 
cooked carrot balls may be taken, or asparagus tops a la cr^me ; also 
small cauliflower roses or Brussels sprouts may be used. 

Pigeon Cutlets a la Toringo. — Prepare and cook the cutlets 
the same as in foregoing recipe; dress in center of a hot dish Yg 
pound macaroni a la creme, pour over Yg pint of tomato a I'alle- 
mande sauce ; arrange the cutlets in a circle around it, and serve 
with some of the tomato sauce in a sauce bowl. 

Fillets of Pigeons a la Pompadour.— Eemove the skin 
from the breasts of 6 well-cleaned pigeons ; cut off and lift the 
breast from each one, leaving on the small wing bone ; season with 
a little salt. Lay the fillets into a frying pan with 2 ounces melted 
butter, cook slowly 4 minutes on each side without browning ; re- 
move, and when cold cover each fillet with chicken or veal force- 
meat, to which a few fine-cut truffles and mushrooms have been 
added ; place them in a pan with melted butter, set the pan in a 
medium hot oven, and cook 10 minutes without browning; then 
remove. In the meantime have a plain rice border prepared, ar- 
range the fillets on top the rice border, and fill the center with a 
mushroom or lobster ragout. 

Pigeon, Roasted. — Pick, draw, and wash 6 young pigeons; 
season them with salt ; tie a thin slice of larding pork over the 
breast of each ; place them in a roasting pan, pour a little melted 
butter over each one ; set the pan in a medium-hot oven ; roast, and 
baste frequently first with melted butter then with their own gravy 
until done (if the gravy should get too brown, add 1 gill of boiling 
water). When ready to serve split the pigeons into halves ; arrange 
them nicely on a warm dish, overlapping one another ; free the 
gravy from fat ; add a little broth to the gravy, pour it over the 
pigeons, and serve. Or mix 1 teaspoonful cornstarch with Y2 giU of 
cold water ; add it to the sauce, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add suffi- 



POULTRY. 423 

cient broth to make a creamy sauce ; continue to cook for a few 
minutes ; strain, and pour 1 tablespoonf ul over each pigeon, and 
serve the remaining sauce in a sauce bowl. 

Pigeon, Potted. — Place a saucepan with 2 ounces fine-cut 
larding pork over the fire ; fry light brown ; season 3 well-cleaned 
and prepared pigeons with Yg tablespoonful salt ; place them in the 
saucepan ; add 4 ounces butter, cook and turn until they are light 
brown on all sides ; then add 1 gill of broth, cover, and cook slowly 
till they are done (if necessary, add more broth). Place the giblets 
in a saucepan, cover with cold water ; add a little salt, set them over 
the fire, and cook till tender ; then remove the giblets and chop 
them fine. Fry 6 slices of bread light brown in butter, lay them on 
a warm dish ; cut the pigeons in halves, lay one half on to each 
slice of bread ; remove all fat from the gravy ; mix Yg tablespoonful 
cornstarch with Yg giU cold water, add it to the gravy ; also sufficient 
broth to make a creamy sauce, cook 5 minutes ; then strain into a 
clean saucepan, add the chopped giblets, cook 3 minutes ; pour the 
gravy over the pigeons, equally divided, garnish with a little water 
ci-ess, and serve. 

Pigeons, Filled and Roasted.— Pick and clean 6 young 
pigeons ; stuff them with the following preparation : Soak 4 ounces 
stale baker's bread without the rind in cold water till soft, then 
press out all the water ; melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add the 
bread, and stir till it forms a stiff paste ; then remove to a bowl ; 
add 1 egg, Ys even teaspoonful salt, Y4 even teaspoonf ul pepper, % 
teaspoonful thyme, 1 teaspoonful grated onion, and Y4 teaspoonful 
nutmeg ; mix all well together ; make an incision on each side of 
pigeons, through these draw the legs ; stuff with the above prepara- 
tion, and sew up ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt evenly dis- 
tributed all over ; tie a large thin slice of larding pork over the 
breast of each one ; then place in a roasting pan ; pour over each 
pigeon a little melted butter ; place the pan in a medium-hot oven ; 
roast until light brown on all sides, basting them with their own 



424: POULTRY. 

gravy ; then add Yg cup broth or boiling water ; continue to roast 
till done, which will take from 40 to 60 minutes. Shortly before 
serving lay the pigeons on a warm dish ; remove all fat from the 
gravy ; mix Yg tablespoonf ul cornstarch with Ys giU cold water, add 
it to the gravy, stir and cook 30 minutes ; add Ys pi^t of broth or 
stock, cook 5 minutes ; then strain. Cook the giblets in water with 
a little salt ; rub the cooked livers fine, and add them to the sauce ; 
pour a little sauce over each pigeon, and serve the remainder in a 
sauce bowl ; or chop the pigeon livers fine, and mix them with the 
bread filling. Pigeons may also be stuffed with veal or chicken 
forcemeat or chestnut puree. 

Pigeons with Rice. — Place 3 or 4 well-cleaned pigeons in a 
saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water ; add Y2 tablespoonful 
salt, 2 white onions, a bouquet, and a small carrot ; boil until tender. 
Place Y2 pound well-washed rice in a saucepan over the fire, cover 
with boiling water, cook 5 minutes ; drain, and rinse off with fresh 
cold water ; return the rice in a saucepan to the fire ; add IY2 pint of 
the pigeon broth, cook over slow fire till the rice is done, but the 
kernels not broken. Shortly before serving turn the rice on to a 
warm dish, add 2 ounces butter in small pieces ; then with 2 forks 
mix the rice and butter together; give the rice a dome shape, 
smooth it over with a knife ; cut the pigeons in half, arrange them 
as a border around the rice, and serve. 

Pigeon with Peas. — Place 3 or 4 well-cleaned pigeons in a 
saucepan with 1 ounce raw ham, 1 ounce salt pork, 1 small car- 
rot cut into slices, 1 onion, a bouquet, and 6 whole peppers ; add 
sufficient boiling veal or chicken broth or water to reach half way 
up the pigeons ; cover with buttered paper ; set the saucepan over 
the fire till the pigeons are nearly done ; remove the pigeons to a 
pan large enough to receive them ; strain the broth, free it from all 
fat, pour the broth over the pigeons ; set the pan in a hot oven, and 
let cook till the broth is a half glaze, baste frequently. At the same 
time place a quart of fresh shelled peas in a saucepan over the fire ; 



POULTRY. 425 

barely cover with boiling water ; add 1 teaspoonf ul sugar, and boil 
till tender and nearly dry ; then mix 1 ounce butter with Yg tea- 
spoonful flour, add it to the peas ; add 1 even teaspoonf ul salt and 
2 tablespoonfuls cream, cook 3 minutes ; then add 1 tablespoonf ul 
fine-chopped parsley ; remove from fire, not letting them boil with 
the parsley. Arrange the peas in the center on an oblong dish, cut 
each pigeon in half ; lay them in 2 rows on the dish with the peas 
between them ; pour a little of the glaze over each one, and serve. 
In place of peas, glazed carrot balls, small cauliflower roses covered 
with sauce, Brussels sprouts, chestnuts, mushrooms, olives, spaghetti, 
or nudles may be used. 

Indian Curry of Chicken. — Cut a well-cleaned young chicken 
of 2Y3 pounds into 2-inch pieces, season them with 1 tablespoonf ul 
salt. Place a saucepan with 3 ounces butter and % cupful fine-cut 
onion over the fire, stir and cook till the onion begins to turn straw- 
color ; then add 1 tablespoonful curry powder, stir and cook 5 min- 
utes over a slow fire ; next add the chicken, cook 15 minutes, stirring 
frequently ; add 1 pint of boiling water, let simmer over a moderate 
fire 2 hours ; if the liquor boils away, add a little more water, and 
serve with boiled rice. 

Rice boiled Indian Style. — Wash 1 pound best rice, place it 
in a saucepan, cover with 2 quarts boiling water, cover and cook till 
the rice is soft but not broken ; drain ofl the water, rinse off several 
times with cold water, return the rice to the saucepan, put on the 
lid, set the saucepan for 1 hour on side of stove to dry. Kice pre- 
pared in this way is always served with Indian curry dishes. If the 
rice is to be served with meat, then boil it with 1 teaspoonful salt, 
and when done, drained, and rinsed, put 1 tablespoonful butter in 
the center of rice and leave it on side the stove for 1 hour. 



SALPICON. 

Salpicon a la Toulouse, No. 1. — Cook 1 blanched and pre- 
pared sweetbread 10 minutes in 1 ounce butter ; then cut it into 
small dice-shaped pieces ; add an equal portion of cooked beef tongue, 
mushrooms, and 3 truffles all cut the same way. Then place a 
saucepan over the fire with 1 ounce butter ; add 1 tablespoonful 
flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add Yo pint chicken broth, 1 gill of 
mushroom liquor, Yg even teaspoonful salt, and Y2 giU of Khine 
wine ; cook slowly 5 minutes ; then add to the sauce all the above 
ingredients ; cook 5 minutes longer. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 
1 gill of cream ; add them to the salpicon, stir for a minute ; then 
serve. 

Salpicon a la Toulouse, No. 2. — Cut 1 ounce raw lean ham 
into small pieces and put them in a saucepan over the fire ; add 1 
tablespoonful fine-cut onion, a bouquet, and 12 coarsely pounded 
peppers ; cover with IY2 giU Madeira or sherry wine ; cook until 
reduced to one half, then strain this essence and set aside till follow- 
ing sauce is made : Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter and 1 
tablespoonful fine-chopped onion over the fire ; cook 5 minutes ; add 
1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add Yg cupful canned 
tomatoes, Ys pint of broth, and the essence mentioned above ; season 
with 1 even teaspoonful salt and Y2 teaspoonful pepper, cook 10 
minutes ; strain into a clean saucepan ; add 1 pint of fine-cut 
cooked calf's head, Ys piiit fine-cut mushrooms, 2 fine-cut truffles; 
cook slowly 10 minutes ; then serve. 

Salpicon a la FinanciSre. — Melt 1 ounce butter in a sauce- 
pan ; add a small bouquet, 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped onion, the 

426 



SALPICOX. 427 

same of ham and mushrooms, cook 5 minutes ; add IY2 gill white 
wine, cook until reduced to one half. Place a small saucepan with 
1 tablespoonful butter and the same of flour over the fire, stir and 
cook 3 minutes ; add % pint of broth, 1 teaspoonf ul beef extract, Yg 
even teaspoonf ul salt, cook 5 minutes ; then strain. Now strain 
the above essence, remove the fat, add it to the sauce, and cook 5 
minutes longer ; then add Yg pint of fine-cut white cooked chicken 
meat, 3 truffles, 12 canned mushrooms, Y2 pin^ cooked beef tongue, 
all cut into small dice-shaped pieces ; cook slowly on the side of the 
stove 10 minutes ; then serve. 

Salpicon a la Roy ale. — Season 2 goose or 3 chicken livers 
with salt and pepper ; melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, put in 
the livers and cook till done ; cook 12 small mushrooms 10 minutes 
in butter ; then remove and cut them into small pieces, add Y2 pi^t 
of white cooked chicken meat, cut into small dice-shaped pieces. 
Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the fire ; add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add Y4 pint boiling milk, a 
small bouquet, Y2 teaspoonful nutmeg, 1 gill of mushroom liquor, 
12 whole peppers, 1 even teaspoonful salt, and cook 5 minutes; 
strain ; add all the above ingredients and cook 5 minutes longer ; 
then serve. 

Salpicon a la Palermotaine. — Place a saucepan with 1 ounce 
butter and 1 gill of fine-chopped onions over the fire, cook 5 min- 
utes ; add Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; then add 
Ys can tomatoes, Y2 teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, 1 tea- 
spoonful sugar, and cook 15 minutes ; strain into a clean saucepan ; 
add Y2 pi^t cooked macaroni cut into Y2-ii^ch lengths, Y2 piiit fine- 
cut cooked chicken meat, Y2 pint fine-cut boiled ham, and, if handy, 
3 or 4 fine-cut cooked artichoke bottoms ; set the saucepan over the 
fire, cook slowly 6 minutes ; then mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 1 
gill of cream, add it to the salpicon, and serve at once. 

Salpicon of Lobster. — Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan ; 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add Y* pint of 



428 SALPICON. 

chicken broth, 1 gill of mushroom liquor, a small bouquet, 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful nutmeg, 12 whole peppers, and cook 
5 minutes ; then strain into a clean saucepan ; add 1 tablespoonful 
lemon juice, the fine-cut meat of a 2Y2-pound boiled lobster, and cook 
5 minutes ; mix the yolks of 3 eggs with 1 gill of cream, add it to 
the salpicon, and serve at once. In place of lobster, crab or shrimp 
may be used, 

Salpicon ot Fish. — Take any kind of fish with firm meat, 
either baked or boiled, and cut it into small dice-shaped pieces ; 
place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the fire ; add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; then add 1 pint of cream 
or milk, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 1 gill of mushroom liquor, a small 
bouquet, 12 whole peppers, and Y2 teaspoonful nutmeg; cook. 5 
minutes ; remove the bouquet, and continue the cooking 5 minutes 
longer ; strain in a clean saucepan ; add 1 pint of fine-cut cooked 
fish and y^ cupful fine-cut mushrooms, and, if handy, add 2 fine- 
cut truffles. 

Salpicon of Oysters. — Place 24 large oysters without their 
liquor in a saucepan over the fire ; add Yg gill of Ehine wine, sprinkle 
over 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y3 even teaspoonful pepper ; cook 2 min- 
utes, or until they begin to stiffen and ruffle, then take them out, 
remove the beards, and cut each oyster into 4 pieces. Melt 1 ounce 
butter in a saucepan ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 
minutes ; add Y2 V^^^ ^'^^^ ^^ chicken broth, also the broth in which 
the oysters were cooked, 1 gill of oyster liquor, cook 5 minutes ; 
mix the yolks of 3 eggs with Y2 cupful cream ; add it to the sauce ; 
add the oysters and Yl tablespoonful lemon juice, let the salpicon 
get hot without boiling, and serve. 

Salpicon h la Chasseur. — Eemove the breast from a roasted 
prairie hen, cut it into small dice-shaped pieces ; add to this 12 fine- 
cut canned mushrooms, 2 fine-cut truffles, and the cooked liver of 
the hen. Cut off the legs and second joints and lay them aside ; 
crack the remaining bones into small pieces ; cut 1 onion into slices, 



SALPICON". 429 

lay them in bottom of saucepan, add 3 slices of carrots, 1 ounce fine- 
cut raw ham, and a bouquet ; place the bones on top of this, then 
cover with broth, add 1 gill Madeira wine and 12 whole peppers ; 
set the saucepan over the fire, cover and cook 1 hour ; then strain ; 
reduce the broth to ^4 pint by boiling. Then place a saucepan with 
1 ounce butter over the fire, add 1 tablespoonful flour ; stir and cook 
3 minutes ; add the strained broth mentioned above, 1 gill of mush- 
room liquor, 1 gill Madeira wine, 7g teaspoonful beef extract, 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, Vg even teaspoonful white pepper, and a small bou- 
quet ; boil slowly 10 minutes ; then strain the sauce into a clean 
saucepan, add the fine-cut prairie-hen meat, the mushrooms, and 
truffles ; cook 5 minutes ; then serve. 



GAME. 

Redhead^ Ganvasback^ Teal^ and Mallard Ducks are in season from 
September to the end of March. 

Canyasback Duck, Eoasted. — For 6 persons select 3 fine 
canvasback ducks, pick off the feathers, and singe them ; clean the 
head, remove the eyes, cut the skin the whole length of the neck 
from the head down to the body ; remove the pouch and windpipe ; 
cut a small opening above the vent, cut out the vent, then with the 
hand remove the internal organs ; wipe the inside and outside with 
a damp cloth, but if the ducks are too garaey, wash them quickly in 
cold water, and wipe them dry ; run the head down under the wing, 
and stick the bill into the breast ; season with Yg tablespoonf ul salt 
and 1 teaspoonf ul pepper evenly distributed inside and outside of the 
ducks ; bend the wings over the back, run a trussing needle with 
white cord through the thighs and body, then tie the two ends at 
the back ; next run the needle through the wings, body, and neck, and 
tie them in the back ; put Yg ounce butter into each duck, lay them 
in a roasting pan, pour 3 tablespoonfuls white broth in the pan, 
place the pan in the hot oven, and roast 30 minutes or more, accord- 
ing to size. "When ready to serve, lay the ducks on a warm dish, 
remove the threads, surround with fried hominy; present them 
whole to the guests, remove, and carve only the breasts. Place Yg 
breast and a piece of the fried hominy with 1 tablespoonf ul currant 
jelly for each person on hot plates, and serve. Canvasback ducks 
are always served rare. 

Canyasback Duck with Currant-jelly Sauce. — Roast for 
6 persons 3 ducks same way as in foregoing recipe ; remove the 
breasts from the roasted ducks, cut each one into halves, and lay 

430 



GAME. 431 

them into a chafing dish. In the meantime place a saucepan with 
1 ounce butter, 1 tablespoonful fine-cut onions, the same of carrots 
and ham, 1 bay leaf, 12 whole peppers over the fire, cook 5 minutes ; 
add Ya tablespoonful flour, cook 3 minutes ; add % pint white broth 
and Y2 teaspoonful beef extract, cook 5 minutes; then strain the 
sauce into a clean saucepan, add 1 cupful currant jelly, 1 gill of 
orange juice, and 2 tablespoonfuls port wine ; place the saucepan 
over the fire, and stir till the jelly is melted. Pour Y2 pint of sauce 
over the duck meat, dress the breast on a warm dish, surround with 
bread croutons, and serve the remaining sauce in a sauce bowl. 

Canvasback Duck, Broiled. — Split 2 well-cleaned ducks 
through the back, season them with 1 even tablespoonful salt and 1 
even teaspoonful pepper, brush them over with a little olive oil, and 
lay the ducks on a hot broiler ; broil over a moderate clear fire about 
10 minutes on each side, turning them every 5 minutes ; dress the 
ducks on a warm dish ; mix 2 ounces butter with the juice of Y2 
lemon, Ys teaspoonful grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped 
parsley ; spread this over the ducks, garnish with water cress, and 
serve with buttered toast. 

Redhead Duck, Roasted.— Select a fine pair of redhead 
ducks, pick, singe, and draw them the same as the canvasback 
duck, wipe out the inside with a cloth, or wash them quickly in cold 
water and dry ; season the ducks with 1 tablespoonful seasoning salt 
evenly distributed inside and outside ; put Y2 ounce butter into each 
duck, truss them neatly, and lay them in a roasting pan. Place a 
pan with 4 ounces fine-cut larding pork over the fire, and fry till 
the pork turns yellow ; then remove and strain ; pour 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of this melted pork over each duck and 3 tablespoonfuls water 
in the pan, set the pan in a hot oven, and roast from 20 to 25 min- 
utes (they should be quite rare). When ready to serve, lay the 
ducks on a hot dish, untruss, lay 6 slices of fried hominy or bread 
croutons around the dish, and serve with crab-apple or currant 

jelly. 



432 GAME. 

Redhead Duck, Broiled. — Sj)lit 2 well-cleaned ducks down 
the back and flatten them ; brush over with melted butter, lay the 
ducks on a hot broiler, and broil over a clear, moderate fire from 20 
to 25 minutes, turning every 5 minutes. Stir 2 ounces butter to a 
cream ; add Yg even teaspoonf ul pepper, 1 even tublespoonf ul salt ; 
lay the ducks on to a hot dish, spread over the butter, and serve 
with currant jelly and buttered toast ; garnish with water cress. 

Teal Duck, Roasted. — Select 2 nice teal ducks ; pick, singe, 
and draw them, wipe the inside with a damp cloth, truss them 
neatly, season with salt, allowing 1 even fceaspoonful for each duck ; 
put Ya ounce butter in the inside of each one, lay them in a roasting 
pan. Twenty minutes before serving place the pan in a hot oven 
and roast 18 minutes ; glaze them, and serve on a hot dish ; pour a 
few tablespoonfuls consomme on the dish, and garnish with lemon, 
cut lengthwise into quarters, and croutons, or serve with jelly and 
garnish with fried hominy. 

Teal Duck, Broiled, is prepared as broiled canvasback duck. 

Salmis of Teal Ducks. — Koast 2 teal ducks as in preceding 
recipe, cut off the wings, breasts, and legs, chop the bodies of the 
birds into small pieces, place in a saucepan over the fire, cover with 
white broth, and cook 25 minutes ; strain the broth. Melt 1 ounce 
butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped shallot, 1 
gill of fine-chopped mushrooms, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ys even 
teaspoonful pepper, Y4 teaspoonful nutmeg, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 
tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 3 gills of the 
broth mentioned above, 1 gill of white wine, Y2 giU of fine-cut 
cooked ham, a little beef extract, and a small bouquet, cook 5 min- 
utes ; then remove the bouquet, add 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 
put the duck into a round pan, pour over the sauce, cook 5 minutes. 
Dress the salmis on a hot dish and decorate with 6 slices of bread 
cut triangle shape and fried a delicate brown in butter. 

Mallard Duck, Roasted. — Pick, draw, and singe 2 mallard 
ducks, wipe out the inside with a cloth, truss them the same as 



GAME. 433 

canvasbacks, season with salt and a little pepper ; spread 1 ounce but- 
ter over each duck, place them in a roasting pan in a hot oven, cook 
from 25 to 30 minutes, basting frequently, first with melted butter, 
then with their own gravy ; untruss and serve them on a hot dish ; 
garnish with water cress and lemons cut into quarters. Eemove the 
fat from the gravy, add a few spoonfuls consomme or bouillon, let it 
boil up ; then strain the gravy and pour it over the ducks, or serve 
the gravy separately. Serve with lettuce salad and crab-apple jelly. 

Salmis of Mallard Duck. — Eoast 2 ducks as in foregoing 
recipe, cut off the breasts, wings, and legs ; chop the bodies into 
small pieces and place them in a saucepan over the fire ; add Y2 
gill of fine-cut onion, 1 bay leaf, 12 coarsely pounded peppers, Yg 
gill fine-cut raw ham, and Yg pint red wine, cook 10 minutes ; add 1 
pint of broth, cover and cook 30 minutes ; then strain the broth into 
a clean saucepan, reduce it by boiling to 3 gills. Melt Yg ounce butter 
in a small saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook and stir 3 min- 
utes ; add the 3 gills of broth, Ys giU of mushroom liquor, the 
gravy from the ducks, Ys giU of sherry wine, and 1 even teaspoonful 
pepper, cook 5 minutes. Put the ducks in a saucepan, pour over 
the sauce, let it simmer over a slow fire 10 minutes ; then serve on a 
hot dish and decorate with bread croiitons. 

Wild Ducks. — The common wild ducks are often unpalatable, 
caused by their disagreeable fishy flavor. In order to remove this 
flavor the ducks should be picked, singed, and drawn, then well 
washed inside and outside in cold water. Place a large kettle with 
boiling water over the fire, add 1 tablespoonful bicarbonate of soda, 
1 carrot, and 2 onions ; put in the ducks, boil 20 minutes ; then 
take the ducks out and immediately plunge them into cold water, 
wash and rinse them thoroughly, and wipe dry ; season with salt, 
allowing 1 even tablespoonful for each duck, and Ys ©ven teaspoon- 
ful white pepper, spread 1 ounce butter over each bird, and cover 
the breasts with a large thin slice of larding pork ; set the pan in a 
medium-hot oven, roast and baste frequently till light brown all 



434 GAME. 

over ; then put a little boiling water in the pan, add a few slices of 
carrot and onion, continue to roast and baste till done. Serve the 
ducks on a hot dish, free the gravy from fat, add a little broth, and 
strain it over the ducks ; serve with celery-root salad and compote 
or jelly. Wild goose may be prepared in the same way. 

In season from October 1st to February 1st. 

Pheasant, Roasted.— Before picking the pheasant cut off the 
head close to the body, also the wings and tail ; then pick, singe, 
and draw the bird ; either wash it quickly in cold water or wipe the 
inside with a damp cloth ; truss it nicely ; spread 1 ounce butter 
all over the bird and tie a large thin sheet of larding pork over the 
breast, lay the pheasant in a roasting pan, cover the entire bird with 
buttered paper, place the pan in a hot oven, and roast 30 minutes ; 
then remove the paper, sprinkle over some salt, and continue to 
roast, basting frequently till done (if the gravy should get too 
brown, add a little water). In the meantime cut 2 pieces of bread 
lYa inch thick and SYg inches long, hollow out a piece of the center 
Ya inch deep and IY2 inch wide, then fry them light brown in hot 
fat ; drain, and when cold mix a little white of egg with flour to a 
paste, fasten 1 crouton at each end of an oval-shaped dish, and place 
it for a few minutes in the oven to dry ; then remove, lay into 1 
crouton the head, into the other the tail, and fasten them with 
small silver skewers ; cover the croutons with a frill of fancy paper, 
so that the meat of the pheasant will not come in contact with the 
feathers of the bird. Carve the pheasant, cut the meat into nice 
even slices, cut off the legs and divide them in two, also the back ; 
lay the back in the middle of the dish, the legs on the sides, the 
breast on top the back. Free the gravy from the fat, add a little 
broth to the gravy, pour some of the gravy over the bird, and gar- 
nish with a border of water cress. Another way is to place a bread 
crouton 1 inch high and 8 inches long and 4 to 5 inches Avide on the 
dish ; hollow it out in such a way as to hold the bird and to dress 
the pheasant without carving on this crouton ; then to arrange the 



GAME. 435 

head, tail, and wings in such a way as to have them appear natural and 
lifelike, securing them with small plated skewers, surrounded with a 
border of water cress. Another way is to stuff the pheasant with liver 
forcemeat or bread filling, then roast and serve the same as chicken. 

Prairie Hen and Grouse^ in season from August 15th to February 1st. 

Prairie Hen, Roasted. — Pick, singe, and draw a nice plump 
pair of prairie hens, wash and wipe them dry ; season each one 
with 1 teaspoonful salt ; tie a large thin slice of larding pork over 
the breast of each one, and spread 1 ounce butter over them ; place 
the birds in a roasting pan in a medium-hot oven, basting first with 
melted butter, then with their own gravy ; when brown on all sides 
add 1 gill of boiling water (if the gravy browns too much add 
more water), continue roasting and basting till done. Dress the 
prairie hens on a hot dish ; free the gravy from fat, add a few 
spoonfuls bouillon to the gravy, let it boil a few minutes ; then 
strain, and serve with the birds. 

Prairie Hen, Potted. — Prepare 2 nice prairie hens the same 
way as in foregoing recipe ; run a trussing needle with a fine cord 
through the thigh and body, and tie the cord in the back ; run the 
needle also through' the wings and neck, and tie them firmly ; sea- 
son each one with 1 teaspoonful salt. Place a saucepan large 
enough to receive the birds with 4 ounces fine-cut larding pork 
over the fire ; fry until the pork begins to turn straw-color, then 
put in the prairie hens ; add 2 ounces butter ; turn them often 
with the fork, leaving the saucepan uncovered until the birds have 
obtained a light-brown color ; then add Yg cup boiling water, cover 
and cook till they are done (if the water boils away, and the gravy 
should get too brown, add a little more water). When done, re- 
move, and cut each bird into 6 pieces ; arrange on a hot dish, 
the best pieces on top. Free the gravy from fat ; mix 1 table- 
spoonful cornstarch or flour with 1 gill of cold water, add it to the 
gravy, stir and cook over the fire 3 minutes ; add sufficient broth or 
boiling water to make a creamy sauce, boil 5 minutes, then strain ; 



436 GAME. 

have the giblets boiled in water, chopped fine, and added to the 
gravy, also a small piece of butter. Pour the gravy over the birds, 
decorating the dish with triangle bread croutons, and serve. 

Grouse, Roasted. — Pick, singe, and draw a fine pair of grouse, 
wipe out the inside with a damp towel or wash them quickly in cold 
water, and wipe dry ; season each one with 1 teaspoonful salt, truss 
nicely, spread 1 ounce butter over each one ; lay the birds in a 
roasting pan, add 1 gill of water, cover them with buttered paper, 
put in a medium-hot oven, and roast and baste 20 minutes ; remove 
the paper, continue to roast, basting freely until done. When ready 
to serve, untruss the birds, dress them on bread croutons, garnish 
with water cress ; free the gravy from fat ; add a little bouillon to 
the gravy, boil a few minutes ; strain and pour over the birds. 
Grouse may be potted the same as prairie hens ; and they may be 
prepared as a salmi the same as teal duck. Broiled grouse is pre- 
pared the same as mallard duck. 

Roast Partridge filled with Truffle Dressing.— Pick, 
singe, and draw 2 fine partridges, wipe out the insides. Chop fine 
the 2 livers and Yo pound pork tenderloin, pound to a paste, add 6 
fine-cut truffles, season with salt and pepper ; melt 2 ounces fine- 
chopped larding pork, add the other ingredients, stir for a few min- 
utes over the fire ; then fill the crop and body of the two partridges 
with this forcemeat, sew up, and truss them nicely ; lay the birds in 
a round pan just large enough to hold them ; spread 2 ounces butter 
over their breasts ; place them in a hot oven, and roast, basting fre- 
quently till done ; then untruss, remove the threads, lay the birds 
on 2 bread canapes. Add to the gravy 1 tablespoonful fine-cut 
onion, and carrots, 1 bay leaf, 12 whole peppers, cook 5 minutes ; 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 pint 
broth, cook 5 minutes ; add last 1 teaspoonful beef extract, and if 
necessary some salt ; strain, and serve with the birds ; or remove 
part of the fat from the gravy, add a little consomme to the sauce ; 
boil and strain. 



GAME. 437 

Quail., in season from November to February 1st. 
Quail^ Potted^ serred on Canapes. — Pick, singe, draw, and 
wipe the interior of 6 fine fat quails, push the legs through the 
skin, inside, bend the wings backward ; season the birds with 1 
eS'en tablespoonful salt ; place a low saucepan large enough to 
receive the birds with 4 ounces fine-cut larding pork over the fire ; 
fry until the pork turns to a straw-color ; then add 2 ounces butter 
and the birds ; leave the saucepan open ; turn the quails every few 
minutes with a fork until they are light brown on all sides ; then 
add Yg cupful boiling water or broth ; cover and cook slowly from 30 
to 40 minutes, or till done ; if necessary add some more water, but 
only a little at a time. In the meantime prepare 6 small canapes 
as follows : Cut 6 slices of bread Y4 inch in thickness from a stale 
Vienna loaf, cut off the rind, trim neatly ; then hollow it out Yg 
inch deep, so that the cavity will hold the quail ; spread a little but- 
ter all over the bread, place the canapes on a shallow tin pan, and 
brown them in a hot oven to a fine golden color. Eemove from the 
oven ; arrange them on a hot dish ; put a quail on each one ; free 
the gravy from fat ; mix 1 teaspoonful cornstarch with a little cold 
water, add to the gravy, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add suflQcient broth 
or boiling water to make a creamy sauce, cook 2 minutes ; then strain 
into a sauce bowl, pour a little sauce over each bird, and serve. 

Quail broiled Plain. — Split 6 fine, fat, well-cleaned quails 
through the back without separating the parts ; break the 2 leg bones, 
brush each one over with melted butter on both sides ; lay them on 
a hot broiler and broil over a moderate fire, about 8 minutes on each 
side, turning them 3 times while broiling. Place the birds on a hot 
dish ; mix 2 ounces butter with 1 teaspoonful salt and Y4 teaspoonful 
pepper ; spread this over the quails, garnish with croutons made as 
follows : Cut 6 thin slices from a stale loaf of baker's bread, cut 
each slice into 2 three-cornered pieces ; spread on both sides with a 
little butter, and place them in a shallow tin pan ; then brown in a 
hot oven till they obtain a fine golden color ; remove from the oven, 
and arrange them in a circle around the dish ; then serve. 



438 GAME. 

Quail on Toast. — Pick, singe, and draw 6 fine fat quails, wipe 
them inside with a cloth ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, 
evenly distributed, push the legs through the skin inside, and bend 
the wings backward ; tie with 2 strings a thin slice of larding pork 
over each breast, large enough to cover the entire breast ; lay them 
in a roasting pan, pour over 2 ounces melted butter ; add 1 gill of 
water ; place in a hot oven ; cover with buttered paper ; roast and 
baste every 5 minutes, each time replacing the paper; after 15 
minutes' roasting, remove the paper (if the gravy should become too 
brown, add more water) ; continue to roast and baste till well done, 
which will take from 30 to 40 minutes ; if wanted rare, 20 minutes. 
Shortly before serving, arrange 6 slices of buttered toast on a hot 
dish ; remove the strings and pork from the birds, lay a quail on 
each piece of toast ; free the gravy from fat. Melt Yg ounce butter 
in a saucepan, add 1 teaspoonf ul flour, stir and cook 5 minutes ; add 
the gravy from the birds and sufficient broth to make a creamy 
sauce ; cook 5 minutes ; add a little beef extract, and, if necessary, 
some salt ; strain the gravy, and pour 1 tablespoonful over each 
bird ; garnish the dish with water cress, and serve. Another way is 
not to thicken the gravy, but dilute the quail gravy with a few 
spoonfuls bouillon or consomme ; let it boil 3 minutes, then strain, 
and serve in a gravy bowl. 

Quail a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Split 6 well-cleaned quails 
through the back ; season them with 1 even tablespoonful salt, Yg 
even teaspoonful pepper, evenly distributed ; brush each one lightly 
with a little olive oil or melted butter ; place the birds on a hot 
broiler and broil over a moderate clear fire from 12 to 15 minutes, 
turning them every 5 minutes. In the meantime stir 2 ounces 
butter to a cream ; add slowly 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice, 1 table- 
spoonful fine-chopped parsley, Yg teaspoonful nutmeg. Dress the 
birds on a hot dish with a piece of buttered toast under each one, 
spread the maitre d'hotel butter over the birds, and serve. 

Dog Birds, Broiled. — Prepared the same as quails. 



GAME. 439 

Doe Birds, in season from May 1st to September 1st. 

Doe Birds en Canapes. — Singe, draw, and wipe 6 fine dog 
birds, push the legs through the skin, and bend the wings over the 
backs ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt ; spread % ounce butter 
over each one. Put them in a roasting pan, pour 1 gill of water 
into it; set them in a medium-hot oven, cover with buttered 
paper, roast 10 minutes ; then remove the paper, baste frequently, 
and roast till tender, which will take from 18 to 25 minutes ; if 
necessary, add a little more water. Prepare 6 canapes the same as for 
potted quail, lay them on a hot dish, put 1 bird on each canape, 
and garnish with water cress. Free the gravy from fat ; melt Yg 
ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 teaspoonful flour, stir and cook 
3 minutes ; add the gravy from the birds and sufficient broth to 
make a creamy sauce, cook 5 minutes ; strain and add a little beef 
extract ; pour 1 tablespoonful sauce over each bird, and serve. 

In season from September 1st to January 1st. 

Reed Birds, Potted. — Pick and singe 12 fine fat reed birds, 
cut off the feet and wings, remove the skin from the head and pick 
out the eyes, remove the gizzard from the side with a skewer and 
push the legs through the skin inside, put the head under the wing, 
and stick the bill in the breast. Place a saucepan with 2 ounces fine- 
cut larding pork over the fire, fry till it begins to turn straw-color ; 
then add 3 ounces butter, put in the birds, leave the saucepan open, 
turn the birds with a fork until they are light brown all over ; then 
add Y2 pint cream, cover and cook till done (if the gravy should get 
too brown, add a little boiling water) ; remove and dress them on 6 
slices of toast, putting 2 birds on each piece ; remove all fat from the 
gravy, strain and pour a little over each bird, and garnish with 
water cress. All kinds of birds may be prepared in the same way. 

Reed Birds, Roasted. — Prepare 12 birds the same as in fore- 
going recipe, season them with salt, cover the breasts with a thin 
slice of larding pork ; place them in a roasting pan, spread Yg tea- 
spoonful butter over each bird, set in a medium-hot oven to roast 



440 GAME. 

from 10 to 12 minutes ; dress them on 6 slices of buttered toast, 
free the gravy from fat, dilute it with a few spoonfuls broth, and 
serve it with the birds, or pour a little over each bird. In roasting 
birds care should be taken not to have the pan in which the birds 
are roasted any larger than is necessary to hold them. 

Woodcock, in seaso7ifrom August 15t1i to February 1st. 

Woodcock, Roasted. — Select 3 fine woodcocks, pick, singe, 
and draw them ; remove the skin from neck and head, pick out the 
eyes, twist the feet together, run the bill through the left foot ; 
season the birds with salt, cover the breasts with a thin slice of lard- 
ing pork, and lay them in a roasting pan ; pour over 2 ounces 
melted butter, set them in a hot oven, and roast from 15 to 20 min- 
utes ; chop the hearts and livers of the woodcocks fine, mix them 
with Y2 ounce melted butter, 2 tablespoonfuls grated bread crumbs, 
season with 1 even teaspoouful salt, Y4 even teaspoonful pepper, and 
a sprinkle of nutmeg ; mix all together. Then cut 3 slices from a 
stale loaf of baker's bread, cut each slice into 2 pieces, pare off the 
rind, trim them neatly, and spread both sides over with a little but- 
ter ; lay them on a tin pan, set the pan in a hot oven till the bread 
has obtained a fine golden color, then remove, and cover one side of 
them with the chopped hearts and livers ; return them to the pan, 
pour over a little melted butter, and bake 5 minutes in a hot oven ; 
cut the birds in halves, lay 1 half over each piece of crolitons, gar- 
nish with water cress, and serve ; dilute the gravy with a little con- 
somme and serve in a sauce bowl. 

Woodcock, Broiled. — Broil the woodcock the same as quail, 
and garnish with broiled bacon. 

Snipe, in season from September 1st to January 1st. 
English Snipe, Roasted. — Pick, singe, and draw V2 dozen 
fine snipes, remove the skin from the heads, pick out the eyes, truss 
the legs together, skewer the head under one leg, season with salt, 
and cover the breasts with a thin layer of larding pork ; place the 
birds in a roasting pan, pour over 1 ounce melted butter, set the pan 



GAME. 44X 

in a hot oven, pour 1 gill of water in the pan, and roast and baste 
frequently till done. Chop the hearts and livers fine, mix them 
with Y2 ounce melted butter, 1 tablespoonful grated bread crumbs, 
season with pepper and salt and a little nutmeg ; spread this over 6 
pieces of bread croutons, sprinkle over them a little melted butter, and 
place for 5 minutes in a hot oven. Lay the croutons on a hot dish, 
dress the birds over them, garnish with water cress ; free the gravy 
from fat, add a little broth, cook 3 minutes ; then strain and serve 
with the birds. Snipe may be potted or broiled the same as quails. 

Partridge, from August 15th to February 1st, 

Partridge, Roasted. — Procure 2 fine partridges, singe, draw, 
wipe, and truss them nicely ; season with 1 even tablespoonful 
salt ; lay a few slices of larding pork in a roasting pan, put the 
partridges on top the pork, spread 2 ounces butter over them, and 
cover the breasts with thin slices of larding pork ; place the pan in 
a medium-hot oven, roast and baste frequently till done (if the 
gravy should become too brown, add a little water). Dress the par- 
tridges on a hot dish, lay a border of triangle bread croutons around 
the dish, and brush the birds over with glaze ; free the gravy from fat, 
add a few spoonfuls broth, cook 2 minutes ; then strain and serve in 
a sauce bowl ; or dilute 1 teaspoonf ul cornstarch with a little cold wa- 
ter, add it to the gravy ; add sufficient broth to make a creamy sauce, 
cook a few minutes, then strain. The partridges may be cut in 
halves, then arranged neatly on a hot dish, and served the same way. 

Partridge a la Soubise. — Truss 2 well-cleaned partridges, 
season with 1 even tablespoonful salt; place a saucepan with 4 
ounces larding pork over the fire, fry to a light straw-color, add 2 
ounces butter and the partridges ; leave the saucepan uncovered 
till the birds have assumed a light-brown color all over, turning 
them frequently; then add Yg cupful broth, cover and cook till 
done. At the same time place a saucepan with 6 medium-sized 
peeled white onions over the fire, cover with boiling water, cook 10 
minutes ; then drain and chop fine, add 1 ounce butter, 1 even tea- 



442 GAME. 

spoonful salt, Yg gill white pepper, Yi teaspoonful nutmeg, cover 
and cook 20 minutes. In the meantime melt 1 ounce butter in a 
saucepan, add Ya tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 
Y2 bay leaf, 6 whole peppers, and a little salt ; add Ys cupful boiling 
white broth, stir and cook 5 minutes ; then add it to the onions ; 
add Yspiat cream, cook 3 minutes ; then press it through a sieve, add 
Y4 teaspoonful sugar. Cut the partridges in halves, or cut each one 
lengthwise into 3 pieces, dress them on a hot dish, pour over the 
onion sauce, and serve ; or serve the sauce separate. Another way is 
to pour the sauce ou to a hot dish, and dress the partridges over it. 

Chartreuse of Partridge. — Cut 6 large well-cleaned carrots 
into lengths IY2 inch wide, then bore out small stems IY2 inch in 
length with an apple corer ; place the vegetables into a saucepan, 
cover with boiling water ; add 1 teaspoonful sugar and boil till half 
done ; then drain and set them aside to cool. Prepare a forcemeat 
either of game, chicken, or pork tenderloin ; butter a plain timbale 
form, decorate the sides and bottom with the carrot and turnips, 
put in the forcemeat, press it evenly on the sides and bottom with- 
out disturbing the decorations, then place it on ice or in a cool 
place. Select 2 heads of Savoy cabbage, remove the outside leaves, 
cut the cabbage into 4 parts, place them in a saucepan with Y2 pound 
lean salt pork, and cover with boiling water ; add 1 tablespoonful 
sugar, and boil Ys hour ; then drain off the water ; return the cab- 
bage to the saucepan ; add the pork, 3 white onions, 1 even table- 
spoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, and cover with white 
broth. Season 2 well-cleaned partridges with 1 teaspoonful salt, 
spread 2 ounces butter over the breast, place them in a roasting 
pan ; set the pan in a hot oven, and roast 15 minutes ; then remove, 
put the birds in the center of the cabbage, and cook 1 hour ; take 
out the partridges ; remove the meat from the bones, cut it into 
slices ; drain the cabbage on a sieve, press out all the moisture ; put 
the cabbage in the timbale form, leave a hollow in the center, put 
in the meat from the partridges, and cover with cabbage ; place the 



GAME. 443 

mold in a pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper, and bake 
45 minutes in a medium-hot oven. Turn the chartreuse on to a 
hot dish, let it stand a few minutes, then lift the form off. 
Serve with the following sauce : Add to the butter in which the 
partridges were roasted 1 fine-chopped onion, 1 tablespoonful fine- 
cut carrot, 1 bay leaf, and 12 whole peppers, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 
tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 pint of broth, 1 
teaspoonful beef extract, and cook 5 minutes ; then strain the sauce 
into a clean saucepan, add Yg ounce butter in small pieces ; stir for 
2 minutes over the fire. Serve in a sauce bowl. 

Partridge, Larded and Roasted. — Procure 2 fine plump 
partridges, pick, singe, draw, and wipe them ; remove the skin 
from the breast, and then dip the breasts into boiling water ; wipe 
dry, and with a fine needle lard the breast with small strips of lard- 
ing pork ; season each partridge with Yg teaspoonful salt ; place 
them in a round pan just large enough to receive the birds ; pour 
Y2 ounce of melted butter over each one ; set them in a hot oven to 
roast 15 minutes, basting frequently (if the partridges are young they 
will cook in that time ; if old, they will take longer). Serve them on 
a hot dish, either plain or on bread croutons, and garnish with water 
cress ; add a little bouillon or broth to the gravy after removing most 
of the fat ; boil 2 minutes, then strain. The gravy may be poured 
over the birds or served separate. Prairie hens, pigeons, grouse, 
quails, and all kinds of birds are larded and roasted the same way. 

Prairie Hen or Partridge with Cabbage.— Cut 1 good- 
sized head of cabbage into 4 pieces ; place it in a saucepan with Ya 
pound of lean salt pork, add 1 tablespoonful sugar, cover with boil- 
ing water, and cook 20 minutes ; then drain off the water, return 
the cabbage in a saucepan to the fire, cover with white broth ; add 
the pork, and season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even tea- 
spoonful pepper ; add 3 white onions, cover and cook 2 hours. 
Pick, singe, and draw 2 fine plump partridges or prairie hens, wipe 
the insides with a clean cloth ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, evenly 
29 



444: GAME. 

distributed ; spread 2 ounces butter over the breast ; lay the birds 
in a round pan Just large enough to hold them ; set the pan in a 
hot oven, roast ] 5 minutes, basting frequently ; then take out the 
birds, put them in the center of the cabbage, so that they are com- 
pletely covered with the cabbage ; cover them tightly and place the 
saucepan in a hot oven to bake 45 minutes. Add to the butter in 
which the partridges were roasted 1 fine-chopped onion, 1 table- 
spoonful fine-chopped carrots, 1 bay leaf, and 12 whole peppers ; cook 
over the fire 5 minutes ; then add 1 tablespoonf ul flour, stir and 
cook 3 minutes ; add 1 pint white broth, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 
cook slowly 8 minutes ; then strain into a sauce bowl. Prepare and 
cook at the same time Yg pint of carrot balls, 1 pint potato balls, 
and Yg pint small white onions. Put the fowls on a hot dish, sur- 
round them with the cabbage ; cut the pork into small slices, lay 
them on top the cabbage ; arrange the carrots, potatoes, and onions 
in clusters around the dish of cabbage, and serve with the sauce. 

Partridge Saute. — Cut 2 well-cleaned partridges into pieces ; 
season them with 1 even teaspoonful pepper and 1 even tablespoon- 
ful salt ; mix the seasoning and the partridges well together. Place 
a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the fire, put in the partridges, 
cook 5 minutes ; turn the pieces over, cook 5 minutes longer ; then 
add 1 fine-chopped onion, 1 gill Madeira wine, cover and cook 
slowly 10 minutes. Place a saucepan with Ys ounce butter, 1 table- 
spoonful chopped onion and the same of carrots over the fire, add Y2 
bay leaf, 6 whole peppers, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 teaspoonful flour, 
stir and cook 2 minutes ; add Y2 pii^t of white broth, 1 gill of mush- 
room liquor, Y2 even teaspoonful salt, cook slowly 10 minutes ; then 
strain the sauce, add it to the partridges ; add Y2 piJit canned mush- 
rooms, cook slowly 10 minutes ; add last 1 tablespoonf ul lemon juice. 
Cut 6 slices from a small loaf of baker's bread, cut each on the bias 
into 2 pieces, pare off the rind, spread both sides with a little butter ; 
lay them on a tin plate, set them in a hot oven till they have 
assumed a fine golden color ; then remove, and lay them in a circle 
around the dish. 



GAME. 445 

Fillets of Partridge, Prairie Hen, or Grouse.— Pick, 
singe, draw, and wipe 1 or 2 fine plump partridges, prairie hens, or 
grouse ; cut with a small knife through the center of the breast, re- 
move the skin, then loosen the meat, lift the entire breast with the 
wing bone from the bone ; underneath the breast, is a small fillet 
called the mignon ; separate this from the breast and lay it on a 
separate dish. The fillets are then ready to be cooked in various ways. 

Fillets of Partridge a la Sancroise. — Kemove the breast 
from 3 fine plump partridges as directed in foregoing recipe; 
season them with 1 even tablespoonful salt, Yg even teaspoonful 
pepper ; lay the small mignons in the center on top of each fillet ; 
make 2 slanting incisions on each mignon, then cut a few mush- 
rooms into slices, then into narrow strips, put 1 strip of mushroom 
into each incision ; lay the fillets in a round pan just large enough 
to receive them, pour over 2 ounces melted butter, cover them with 
buttered paper, and set aside until the following ragout is prepared : 
Remove the remaining meat from the partridges ; place a saucepan 
with 2 ounces fine-cut larding pork over the fire ; add 1 tablespoon- 
ful fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes without browning; add half 
the meat from the partridges and the livers, stir and cook 10 min- 
utes ; then remove, add the remaining raw meat chopped ex- 
ceedingly fine. Now place a small saucepan with Y2 gill of boiling 
water, Yg teaspoonful butter over the fire ; add 1 gill of flour, stir 
and cook till it forms into a smooth paste, then remove ; when cold 
add it to the chopped meat, add the yolk of 1 egg and 1 whole egg ; 
season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Ys 6ven teaspoonful pepper, Y4 tea- 
spoonful nutmeg, mix all well together ; then form with 2 teaspoons 
small dumplings from this ; lay them in a buttered pan, and set 
aside. Chop the bodies of the partridges into pieces, place them in 
a saucepan with 1 ounce butter, stir and cook 10 minutes ; then 
add IY2 pint broth, 1 fine-chopped onion, 12 whole peppers, and 1 
bay leaf, cover and cook 30 minutes ; strain the broth. Melt 1 
ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 
3 minutes ; add 1% cupful of the above-named broth, Ys cupful 



446 GAME. 

mushroom liquor, 12 canned mushrooms, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 
teaspoonf ul pepper, Yg gill of sherry wine, cook 10 minutes. Fifteen 
minutes before serving place the fillets in a hot oven, and roast 12 
minutes; then remove. Pour through a funnel sufficient boiling 
water in the pan with the dumplings, set them over the fire, and 
simmer 6 minutes ; then carefully remove them with a skimmer to 
a hot dish, pour over the sauce, and arrange the fillets in a circle 
around the dish. Fillets of partridges and prairie hens may be pre- 
pared the same as chicken fillets. 

Boast Partridge or Prairie Hen, Filled. — Pick, singe, and 
draw 2 fine plump partridges, wipe out the inside, season with 1 even 
tablespoonful salt. For the dressing, boil Yg pound of large chest- 
nuts 20 minutes ; drain, remove the shell and brown skin ; return 
the chestnuts, in saucepan, to the fire, cover with milk, add a little 
sugar, and boil till tender ; remove and mash them fine ; fry 1 
tablespoonful fine-chopped onion in 1 ounce butter 5 minute with- 
out browning ; add Y2 pound sausage meat and the 2 fine-chopped 
livers, stir and cook 10 minutes ; then take it from the fire, add the 
chestnuts, season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Yg even teaspoonful 
pepper, and fill the partridges with this ; sew it up, truss the legs 
inside, lay the birds in a roasting pan no larger then necessary to 
hold them ; pour over 2 ounces butter, set the pan in a medium-hot 
oven, and roast till light brown, basting frequently ; then add 1 gill 
of broth or water, continue to roast and baste till done. Dress the 
partridges on a warm dish. Add Y2 tablespoonful flour to the gravy, 
stir and cook 3 minutes on top of the stove ; add Y2 V^^^ broth, cook 
3 minutes ; then strain and serve in a sauce bowl. Partridges 
may be filled with plain bread dressing or sausage forcemeat. 

Venison in season from 15th of August till 15th of November. 

Saddle of Yenison with Currant Jelly.— Select a small sad- 
dle of venison, about 6 pounds in weight ; remove the skin from the 
surface and trim it neatly ; lard it with fine strips of larding pork, 
either cross or lengthwise ; season with 1 tablespoonful salt, and tie 



GAME. 447 

it into a round shape with 3 strings ; lay the meat in a roasting pan ; 
add 1 sliced onion and a small carrot cut into slices, pour over 2 
ounces melted butter ; place the pan in a hot oven and roast 1 hour, 
basting frequently with its own gravy, adding a little water if the 
gravy should get too brown. When done remove the meat to a hot 
dish ; add to the gravy in the pan 3 tablespoonf uls sherry wine and 
the same of broth, let it come to a boil ; then strain ; remove all the 
fat, pour the gravy over the meat, and serve with the following 
sauce : Melt Yg ounce butter in a small saucepan ; add 1 teaspoonful 
flour, cook and stir 2 minutes ; add Y2 cupful boiling water, Y2 tea- 
spoonful beef extract, Y4 teaspoonful salt, cook and stir 2 minutes ; 
then add 1 gill of port wine and 1 cupful currant jelly ; cook a 
few minutes, and serve. 

Saddle of Tenison roasted a rAllemande.— Procure a 

saddle of young venison, remove the sinews and pare it neatly ; lard 
it lengthwise in 4 rows with fine strips of larding pork ; season with 

1 tablespoonf ul salt ; lay the meat in a roasting pan, spread 2 ounces 
butter over the surface, and place in a hot oven to roast until it be- 
gins to brown, basting it freely with its own gravy ; then add 1 pint 
of sour cream, continue to baste and roast till done, which will take 
about 1 hour. Shortly before serving transfer the meat to a hot 
dish. Free the gravy from the fat ; mix Y2 tablespoonful cornstarch 
with Y2 gill cold water, add it to the gravy ; set the pan on top the 
stove, stir and cook a few minutes ; add sufficient boiling water or 
broth to make a pint of sauce, cook 2 minutes ; then strain. Pour 

2 tablespoonfuls sauce over the venison, and serve with compote and 
salad. A leg of venison may be prepared in the same way for com- 
pote and salad (see my book on Desserts and Salads). 

RagOiit of Tenison. — Take 2Y3 pounds of venison of the fore- 
quarter, cut it into pieces IY2 inch in size ; place a saucepan with 1 
ounce butter and 2 tablespoonfuls chopped onion over the fire, 
cook 3 minutes ; season the venison with 1 tablespoonful seasoning 
salt, rub the seasoning and the meat well together, add it to the 



448 GAME. 

saucepan, cover and cook 15 minutes, stirring often ; than add Yg 
cupful broth, made of the remnants of venison, cover and cook 20 
minutes. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful 
flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 cupful broth, cook a few 
minutes, and add it to the meat ; add the juice of Yg lemon, boil 3 
minutes longer, and serve. This ragout may be served in a border 
of nudles, spaghetti, or potato dumplings, or in a border of bread 
croutons. 

Civet of Tenison a la Fran^aise. — Cut 2 pounds of lean 
venison meat into small pieces, lay it is a covered dish ; season with 
1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful white pepper, 1 large sliced 
onion, Ys cupful vinegar, Y2 bunch of parsley, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 
bay leaf, 1 tablespoonful whole peppers ; mix all well together, cover 
and let it stand overnight. One hour before serving, melt 2 ounces 
butter in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls flour, stir and cook a few 
minutes ; add 3 cupfuls of meat broth or boiling water with 2 tea- 
spoonfuls beef extract ; drain the meat ; add the spice, onions, and 
the liquid from the meat; boil 15 minutes, then strain, return the 
sauce to the saucepan, put in the venison, and boil gently 45 
minutes ; arrange it on a hot dish, and serve with small German 
potatoes, which should first be peeled and parboiled in water, then 
drained and sauted in butter. Civet of hare and rabbits is prepared 
in the same way. 

Tenison Steak a la Maltre d'Hotel. — Procure 6 small steaks 
from a nice leg of venison, weighing in all about SYs pounds ; season 
with 1 even teaspoonful salt and pepper, brush them over with 
melted butter or fine oil, lay the steaks on a hot broiler, and broil 5 
minutes on each side over a moderate fire ; dress them on a hot dish, 
spread over 2 ounces maitre d'hotel butter, and serve ; garnish with 
water cress and French fried potatoes. 

Tenison Steak with Currant-jelly Sauce.— Prepare and 
broil 6 small venison steaks the same as in foregoing recipe. Pre- 
pare the sauce as follows: Place a small saucepan with Ys table- 



GAME. 449 

spoonful fine-choj)ped onion, the same of carrots and ham, over the 
fire ; add Yg ounce butter, Yg bay leaf, 6 whole peppers, cook 5 min- 
utes ; add Y2 teaspoonf ul flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add IY3 
gill of broth, a little beef extract, Y2 even teaspoonful salt, cook 5 
minutes ; then strain the sauce into a clean saucepan, add 1 gill of 
port wine, and cook 5 minutes ; add 1 glass of currant jelly, cook 
until the jelly is dissolved ; pour the sauce on to a hot dish and 
dress the steaks over it ; garnish with potato croquettes the size of a 
hickory nut, or bread croutons. Venison steak may be served with 
Colbert sauce, Madeira sauce, or with 1 pint of chestnut puree on a 
hot dish and the steaks dressed over it. 

Tenison Steak broiled Plain. — Brush 6 small venison 
steaks over with melted butter, lay them on a hot broiler, and broil 
5 minutes on each side. In the meantime stir 2 ounces butter to a 
cream ; add 1 even tablespoonful salt, Yg even teaspoonful pepper ; 
spread this over both sides of the steaks ; garnish with potato pa- 
tricia and water cress or with Sarah Bernhardt potatoes. 

Tenison garnished with Aspic. — Skin, lard, and roast a loin 
of venison, cut off the fillets close to the bone, and carve into slices; 
put the slices back into their former places so that they look as if 
they had not been cut. Glaze the whole and garnish with chopped 
aspic and water cress. 

Leg of Tenison in Aspic. — Have a leg of a young venison 
larded and roasted ; when cold cut the upper side into slices and 
put them in their former places again. Glaze and garnish with 
chopped aspic, water cress, or white lettuce leaves ; twist a frill of 
fringed paper around the knuckle, and serve. 

Cold Roast Tenison in Aspic— Cut from a roasted leg of 
venison nice square pieces about 2 inches in size. Place a deep 
form in a pan of cracked ice, pour into the form some aspic (see 
Aspic) Ys inch high, and let this get firm ; then cover it with a dec- 
orations of boiled beets cut into scallops, slices of hard-boiled eggs, 
small green pickles, capers, and small white onions. Cover with 



450 GAME. 

aspic, let it get firm, put in some of the meat, and cover again with 
asjjic ; continue alternately with aspic, meat, and the other ingredi- 
ents until the form is full ; let the last layer be aspic. "When firm and 
ready to serve hold the form for a second in hot water, turn it on to 
a round dish, and garnish with parsley. Serve with mayonnaise. 

Hare and Ral)bits, Roasted. — Remove the entire skin from 2' 
good-sized rabbits or a good-sized hare, then the fine skin ; cut off 
the head, open the belly, remove the insides, carefully separate the 
gall from the liver, wash and wipe the hare dry, lard with fine strips 
of larding pork, season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, lay into a 
roasting pan, put 2 ounces butter in small pieces over it, place in a 
hot oven, and roast, basting frequently till light brown ; then add 
a little water, and roast till done, which will take about 45 minutes ; 
the meat should be juicy and rare on the bone. Lay the hare on a 
hot dish, garnish with shaved pink and white horseradish, and serve 
with celery-root salad and currant jelly. (For salad, see my book 
on Desserts and Salads.) 

Hare roasted a I'Anglaise. — Remove the entire skin from a 
good-sized hare, leaving on the head and feet ; then cut off the fine 
skin with a sharp knife, wash and wipe dry, lard with fine strips of 
larding pork ; then season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, Vg even 
teaspoonful pepper ; stuff it with the following filling : Mix the 
crumbs of Yg small loaf of bread with Yg pound fine-chopped veal 
fat or suet, season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful pepper, 
Y2 teaspoonful nutmeg, the same of thyme, marjoram, fine-chopped 
parsley, Y2 gi^ of cream or milk, 1 whole egg, and 2 yolks ; stuff the 
hare with this ; sew up, lay in a roasting pan, put a skewer through 
the shoulder and head, and skewer the hind legs close to the body, 
so that the hare sits in the pan as if alive; put 2 ounces butter in 
small pieces over the top, set the pan in a hot oven, and roast till 
light brown, basting freely with its own gravy ; then add 1 gill of 
boiling water, continue to roast till done — about 1 hour ; the meat 
should be juicy and rare on the bone. Lay the hare on a hot dish, 



GAME. 451 

remove the skewers and threads ; then free the gravy from fat, add 
a little broth to the gravy, let it boil up, strain, and serve in a sauce 
bowl ; send currant jelly to table with it. 

Hare roasted a PAllemande.— Skin and draw a fine young 
hare, wash and wipe it dry, cut off head, shoulders, and the front 
legs, remove the fine skin with a sharp knife, and lard it with fine 
strips of larding pork ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt ; lay 
the hare in a roasting pan, pour 2 ounces melted butter over, place 
the pan in a hot oven, roast, basting frequently, till light brown ; 
then add by degrees 1 pint sour cream, baste freely, and roast till 
done. When ready to serve, lay the hare on a hot dish, add a little 
broth to the gravy, boil for a few minutes, then strain ; pour a few 
spoonfuls of the gravy over the hare and serve the remainder in a 
sauce bowl, or add 1 teaspoonful cornstarch, dissolved in cold water, 
to the gravy, stir and boil 3 minutes ; add sufficient broth or bou- 
illon to make a creamy sauce, cook 5 minutes, then strain, and 
serve. 

Ciyet of Ralblbit. — Skin and clean 2 good-sized rabbits ; wash 
and wipe them dry ; carefully remove the gall from the liver, cut 
each rabbit into 8 pieces ; season them with 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 
teaspoonful pepper ; rub the meat and seasoning well together ; 
then put the rabbits with the livers and hearts in a covered dish, 
add Ya pint red wine, 2 onions cut into slices, 2 bay leaves, 6 cloves, 
12 whole peppers, cover the dish, and let it stand for several hours ; 
then take out the meat. Place a saucepan with 2 ounces fine-cut 
larding pork over the fire, fry for a few minutes ; add 2 ounces 
butter and the sliced onions chopped fine, cook 3 minutes ; then 
add the rabbits, cover and cook 20 minutes, turning the pieces over 
several times with a fork. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 
1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add the 
wine and spice the rabbits laid in and Yg pint of broth, cook 5 min- 
utes ; then strain this sauce, add it to the rabbits ; add 1 table- 
spoonful lemon juice and, if necessary, more salt ; cook ten min- 



452 GAME. 

utes longer, or until done ; serve on a hot dish in a border of bread 
croutons, or serve with potato croquettes. 

Ralbbit, Roasted. — Remove the entire skin from 2 rabbits, 
cut off the fine skin and head ; lard the surface with small strips of 
larding pork ; season with 1 even tablespoonful salt, lay the rabbits 
in a roasting pan, pour over 2 ounces melted butter, roast until 
light brown, then add Yg cupful boiling water, continue to roast, 
basting frequently till done. Lay the rabbits on a hot dish, remove 
some of the fat from the gravy ; mix 1 teaspoonful cornstarch with 
1 gill of cold water, add it to the gravy, stir and cook 3 minutes; 
add sufficient broth to make a creamy sauce, cook 5 minutes ; then 
strain ; pour 2 tablespoonf uls gravy over the rabbits, and serve the 
rest in a sauce bowl. Serve with red cabbage a I'allemande and 
potatoes a la tortonia or plain boiled potatoes. Another way is to 
roast the rabbits till light brown, then add gradually 1 pint sour 
cream and finish the same as above. If larding is too much trou- 
ble, season the rabbits, lay them in a roasting pan, with a few thin 
slices of larding pork on tojo, pour over a little melted butter, roast 
and finish the same as above. 

Hasenpfeffer of RabMts. — Remove the entire skin from 2 
fine rabbits, draw, wash, and wipe them dry ; carefully remove the 
gall from the liver ; cat each rabbit into 8 pieces ; season them with 
1 tablespoonful salt; place them in a covered ^ish, add 2 sliced 
onions, 6 cloves, 2 bay leaves, Y2 tablespoonful whole peppers, and 10 
whole allspice, cover with vinegar, and set it for 3 days in a cool 
place. Then place the rabbits with the vinegar, spice, and onions in 
a saucepan over the fire, add Yg pint of water, cook ^slowly until 
done ; then carefully remove the rabbit pieces, lay them on a warm 
dish. Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 1 heaping table- 
spoonful flour, cook and stir 3 minutes ; strain the rabbit broth, add 
it to the butter and flour, cook 5 minutes, and pour it over the rabbits. 
At the same time peel and wash 1 quart small potatoes, place them in 
a saucepan, cover with 1 quart cold water, add 1 tablespoonful salt. 



GAME. 453 

boil until half done, then drain off all the water. Place a deep fry- 
ing pan with 2 ounces of butter over the fire ; when hot put in as 
many of the potatoes as will conveniently go into the pan without 
crowding ; fry to a fine golden color, remove to a hot dish, fry the 
remainder the same way. Serve them with the rabbits ; send some 
hot rolls or biscuits to table with them. Farina or potato balls may 
be served with it. 



SANDWICHES AND CANAPl^JS. 

Sandwiches. — Stir the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs fine, add by 
degrees 4 ounces of butter ; when this is well mixed add 1 raw yolk, 
then slowly 2 tablespoonfuls tarragon vinegar ; next 12 anchovies 
previously soaked in cold water, freed from skin and bones, and 
mashed fine ; also 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls English mustard, 1 teaspoon- 
ful salt, Y2 teaspoonful pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped capers, 
1 tablespoonful fine-chopped shallot, and the fine-chopped whites of 
the boiled eggs ; mix this with 2 pounds fine-chopped or ground 
boiled ham. Cut a long loaf of bread into thin slices, spread 1 table- 
spoonful of the preparation over a slice of bread, and cover with 
another slice ; then cut the sandwich even all around and halve it 
diagonally, or cut it diamond shape ; lay the sandwiches over one 
another, and prepare the remainder in the same way. This will make 
about 3 dozen sandwiches. Another way is to take half cooked chick- 
en, veal, or turkey meat and half ham or tongue, and finish as above. 

Sauce for Canapes. — Put the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs in a 
bowl, rub them fine, add IY2 ounce butter, stir until formed into a 
thick creamy substance ; then add 3 anchovies previously soaked in 
cold water, freed from skin and bones, and mashed fine ; next add 
1 tablespoonful fine-chopped capers. Dip some fresh parsley into 
boiling water, instantly remove and chop it fine ; add Y2 table- 
spoonful to the above preparation, also 1 tablespoonful English 
mixed mustard and 1 tablespoonful tarragon vinegar ; mix well 
together and use as directed in following recipes : 

Canapes of Sardines. — Cut 12 slices V4 inch in thickness from 
a long-shaped loaf of baker's bread, take off the rind, and shape the 

454 



SANDWICHES AND CANAPfeS. 455 

slices either round or oval, toast them to a delicate brown ; spread 
each piece of toast with the sauce in foregoing recipe and lay 1 sar- 
dine in center of each piece. Chop fine 1 beet (previously boiled 
and laid in vinegar), the whites and yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, and 
2 branches of parsley ; arrange these in small clusters around the 
sardines. Place the canapes on an oval-shaped fine dish and 
decorate with parsley. 

Canapes d*AncliOvies. — Lay Yg pound of the best anchovies 
for several hours in cold water, remove all the bones and skin, cut 
each fillet into 2 long strips, and put them on a plate. Dip 1 sprig 
of parsley into boiling water, instantly remove, chop fine, and put 
it in a bowl ; add 3 tablespoonfuls herb vinegar (or white vinegar) 
and 3 tablespoonfuls olive oil, mix well together, and pour over the 
anchovies. Take 12 slices of bread y^ inch in thickness, cut into 
oval shapes 2^(2 inches wide and 4 inches long, toast to a delicate 
brown ; cover one side of each piece of toast with the canape sauce, 
spreading it smooth with a knife. Arrange the anchovies like 
latticework over each piece, place them on an oval-shaped dish, and 
decorate with water cress or parsley. 

Canapes aux l^creyisses. — Extract the meat from the claws 
of 12 boiled hard-shell crabs, cut each claw lengthwise into 2 pieces, 
wipe the shells off with a clean towel, and place them for a few 
minutes in the oven to dry ; put into a mortar, add 4 tablespoonfuls 
olive oil, and pound fine ; then place in a saucepan over a slow fire, 
stir 10 minutes ; then inclose them in a coarse towel and press out 
the oil ; mix the oil with 2 tablespoonfuls of herb vinegar and 
sprinkle it over the crab meat. Prepare 6 oval-shaped pieces of 
toast the same as in foregoing recipe, cover them with the canape 
sauce, arrange the crab claws symmetrically over each piece of toast ; 
put 3 fillets of anchovies around the edge of each canape and small 
clusters of capers or fine- chopped gherkin pickles ; place them on a 
handsome dish and garnish with white and pink shaved horseradish 
or water cresses. 



456 SANDWICHES AND CANAPfiS. 

Canapes of Lobster. — Extract the meat from the claws of 1 
boiled lobster, cut the meat into slices, lay for 1 hour in a dish, 
pour over 4 tablespoonfuls olive oil mixed with 2 tablespoonfuls 
herb vinegar. In the meantime prepare a mayonnaise : Mix the 
yolks of 2 eggs with Yg teaspoonful dry mustard, 1 even teaspoonful 
salt; add drop by drop ^4 cupful olive oil; when well mixed add 
slowly 1 teaspoonful lemon juice and the same of white vinegar ; 
add last 2 tablespoonfuls whipped cream. Prepare 6 pieces of toast 
the same as for canapes of sardines, put a tablespoonful of the 
above mayonnaise on each piece, smooth it with a knife ; then 
arrange the lobster meat like scales over each piece, one overlapping 
the other half way ; decorate the edges of toast with the white part 
of lettuce cut in shreds, then lay alternately small clusters of fine- 
chopped whites and yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, and serve on a fine 
dish. 

Canapes of Herrings. — Cut head and tail from 2 marinierte 
herrings, remove the skin and bones ; cut the meat into fine slices ; 
mix 2 tablespoonfuls olive oil with 2 tablespoonfuls white vinegar, 
add to the meat, and let stand 30 minutes ; press the milt of the her- 
rings through a sieve, mix them with 1 fine-chopped sour apple ; 
toast 6 oval-shaped slices of bread, spread with butter on both sides 
while hot ; when cold cover one side of each piece with the mixture 
of apples and milt, over this arrange the herrings ; then serve. 

Canapes Lorenzo a la Filippini. — Drop 6 live hard shell 
crabs into boiling water, add 1 tablespoonful salt, boil 15 minutes ; 
then remove ; when cold enough to handle take off the upper shell, 
extract all the meat ; crack the claws and pick out the meat ; sea- 
son with 1 even teaspoonful salt and a little Cayenne pepper ; then 
measure — there should be a good pint of crab meat. Place a small 
saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire ; add 2 table- 
spoonfuls fine-chopped white onions, cook 5 minutes without brown- 
ing ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; 
add Yg cupful white broth, stir for a few minutes longer ; then add 



SANDWICHES AND CANAPES. 457 

1 pint of crab meat, stir and cook 8 minutes. Cut 6 slices from a 
long-shaped loaf of baker's bread, cut off the crust, and fry light 
brown in butter on both sides. Spread the crab mixture in equal 
portions over the bread, and set aside. In the meantime melt 1 
tablespoonful butter, add 1 tablespoonful flour, cook and stir a few 
minutes ; remove from the fire, add 4 tablespoonfuls grated Par- 
mesan cheese and the same of grated Swiss cheese ; mix the ingre- 
dients well and form into round balls of equal size. Place them 
in center of the canapes, pressing a little in the center. Put the 
canapes into a baking pan and bake light brown in a hot oven, 
which will take about 10 minutes ; then remove ; arrange them on 
a hot dish, and serve at once. If Swiss and Parmesan cheese are 
not handy take either the American or English cheese. Canapes 
of lobster are prepared in the same way. 



VEGETABLES. 

POTATOES. 

Potatoes, Plain Boiled. — Peel and wash 1 quart potatoes, 
put them in a saucepan, add 1 quart cold water and 1 tablespoon- 
ful salt. Place the saucepan over the fire, cover and boil till done 
(which may be known by trying them with a fork — if the fork pene- 
trates easily they are done ; if not, boil again) ; then drain off all 
the water, return saucepan with potatoes to fire, and let stand 1 
minute ; then shake the potatoes for a minute in the saucepan, 
take off the cover for 1 minute, cover again, and again shake them 
up ; repeat this 2 or 3 times until the potatoes are mealy ; then 
serve. 

Potatoes boiled with the Skin.— Wash 1 quart medium- 
sized potatoes, place in a saucepan, cover with cold water, set the 
saucepan over fire, and boil till done ; then drain off the water, 
return saucepan with the potatoes for a few minutes to the fire 
to dry ; then serve. 

Potato Frite a TAllemande.— Boil 1 quart well- washed 
small German potatoes in water till nearly done; then drain, 
remove skin, and when cold put potatoes in hot fat and fry light 
brown ; remove with a skimmer, lay for a few minutes on paper, 
sprinkle over some salt, and serve on a hot dish. Or use for 
garnishing. 

Potato Saute a I'Allemande. — Peel 1 quart small German 
potatoes, wash and dry on a towel. Place a deep frying pan with 2 
ounces butter over the fire ; as soon as hot put in the potatoes, sea- 

458 



VEGETABLES. 459 

son with Ys even tablespoonful salt, toss frequently and fry till 
done ; then remove to a hot dish, and serve. 

Potatoes, Baked. — Wash the desired quantity of large and 
even-sized potatoes in cold water, place in a hot oven, and bake till 
done, which will be known by pressing them a little between the 
thumb and first finger ; then remove, and serve in a hot covered 
dish or in a napkin. 

Potatoes, Mashed. — Place 1 quart of peeled and well-washed 
potatoes in a saucepan over the fire, cover with 1 quart cold water, 
add 1 tablespoonful salt, and boil till tender ; then drain and mash 
fine with a potato masher. In the meantime put Yg cupful milk 
with 1 tablespoonful butter in a small saucepan over the fire ; 
when hot add it to the potatoes, mix well and beat the potatoes with 
a wooden spoon for a few minutes, then serve. 

Potato Puree. — Boil 1 quart peeled and washed potatoes with 
1 quart of water and 1 tablespoonful salt ; when done, drain off the 
water, and press the potatoes through a sieve ; return to saucepan, 
add Ys pi^t of l^ot cream or milk and 1 ounce butter, mix all well, 
and serve. One tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley may be mixed 
with the potatoes if desired. 

Potato Souffle. — Boil 1 quart peeled and washed potatoes with 
1 tablespoonful salt and 1 quart of water. "When done, drain off the 
water, mash the potatoes fine, and mix them with 1 cupful milk, 1 
ounce butter, and the yolks of 2 eggs ; add the whites beaten to a 
stiff froth ; put the potatoes in a dish ; make 6 dents with a knife 
on top of potatoes, put in each dent a small piece of butter, set the 
dish in a hot oven, and bake light brown ; then serve in the same 
dish. 

Potatoes a Pltalienne. — Boil 1 quart of peeled and well- 
washed potatoes with 1 tablespoonful salt and 1 quart water till 
done ; then drain off the water and press the potatoes through a 
potato press ; mix them with Ys cupful cream, the yolks of 3 eggs, 



460 VEGETABLES. 

Yi teaspoonful white pepper, Ygeven teaspoonful salt, 1 ounce butter, 
and the whites beaten to a stiff froth ; put the preparation in a but- 
tered souffle dish, cover the top with 4 tablespoonf uls grated cheese, 
sprinkle over Yg ounce melted butter, and bake to a fine golden 
color in a hot oven ; set the dish in a silver dish, and serve. 

Potato Croquettes. — Peel, wash, and place 6 medium-sized 
potatoes in a saucepan over the fire, cover with cold water, add Yg 
tablespoonf ul salt, and cook till tender ; then drain and mash, or 
press through a potato press ; mix with 1 ounce butter the yolks of 
2 eggs ; season with Y4 teaspoonful white pepper, Y2 even teaspoon- 
ful salt, and the same of nutmeg. Form the preparation into cork- 
shaped croquettes or into round balls the size of a small egg ; dip 
in beaten egg and roll in fresh grated bread crumbs. Place a frying 
pan with 2 tablespoonfuls drippings or lard over the fire ; when hot 
put in as many croquettes as will conveniently go in the pan, fry 
light brown on all sides ; then remove, let lay for a few minutes on 
blotting or brown paper. When the croquettes are all fried in this 
way, serve on a hot dish. 

Potatoes a la Patricia. — Prepare 6 potatoes the same as in 
foregoing recipe ; lay 2 butter pats 2 minutes in boiling water ; re- 
move and instantly dip into cold water ; take small portions of the 
potatoes and roll them into round balls the size of a walnut between 
the butter pats, the same as butter balls are made; dip in beaten 
egg, roll in fresh bread crumbs, and fry to a fine golden color in hot 
fat. These are mostly used for garnishing. 

Potato Balls a rAllemande. — Prepare 6 large potatoes the 
same as for potato croquettes ; mix with 1 tablespoonful flour and a 
little fine-chopped parsley, form the preparation into small balls the 
size of a hickory nut ; dip in beaten egg, roll in fresh grated bread 
crumbs, and fry to a fine golden color in hot fat, the same as crullers. 

Potatoes a la Teiltonia. — Peel, wash, and boil 8 medium- 
sized potatoes in 1 quart water and 1 tablespoonful salt. When done 
drain and press through a sieve or a potato press ; mix with 1 table- 



VEGETABLES. 461 

spoonful butter the yolks of 2 eggs, season with Y4 teaspoonful 
white pepper, the same of nutmeg and salt. Form the prepara- 
tion first into balls, then into pyramids, brush them over with 
bpflien egg, set on a buttered tin, and bake to a fine golden color 
in a hot oven ; then serve, and stick on top of each a small sprig 
of parsley. 

Potatoes a la Duchesse. — Place 8 well- washed large potatoes 
in a hot oven and bake till done ; then remove the skin and mash 
fine ; mix with 1 ounce butter, 1 even tablespoonful salt, Y4 tea- 
spoonful pepper, and the yolks of 2 eggs. Place the potatoes on a 
molding board, roll them out, Y4 inch thick, and cut into 2-inch- 
square pieces ; cut each square diagonally in half ; lay in a buttered 
pan, brush over with beaten eggs, and bake to a fine golden color in 
a hot oven ; use for garnishing, the same as bread croutons. 

Potato Cakes a la Limerick. — Boil 1 quart of potatoes with 
1 quart of water and 1 tablespoonful salt ; when done, drain and 
mash ; mix with 1 tablespoonful flour. Form into round flat cakes, 
make 3 rills on top of each with the back of a knife. Place a fry- 
ing pan with 4 ounces fine-cut larding pork over the fire, fry light 
brown ; lay in as many potato cakes as will conveniently go into 
the pan without crowding; fry light brown on both sides; when 
all are fried, serve with fried or broiled chops, steak, or fish. 

Raw Potatoes fried with Pork. — Peel, wash, and cut into 
thin slices 8 medium-sized potatoes. Place a frying pan with 4 
ounces fine-cut larding pork over the fire, fry light brown ; then 
add the potatoes, season with 1 even tablespoonful seasoning salt, 
fry slowly, and stir often till done, without covering. In place of 
pork fat, drippings, lard, or butter may be taken. 

Lyonnaise Potatoes. — Cut 6 medium-sized peeled potatoes into 
thin slices and lay in cold water. Peel and cut 2 good-sized white 
onions into thin slices; 15 minutes before serving, drain and dry 
the potatoes on a towel. Place a large frying pan with 1 table- 
spoonful beef fat or lard over the fire ; as soon as hot, put in the 



462 VEGETABLES, 

potatoes, cook 5 minutes ; add the onions, season with Yg even table- 
spoonful salt and Yg even teaspoonful pepper, stirring occasionally ; 
fry slowly until done ; then pour off the fat, turn the potatoes on 
to a hot dish, in the shape of an omelet, sprinkle over 1 table- 
spoonful fine-chopped parsley, and serve. 

French Fried Potatoes. — Peel 8 medium-sized potatoes, cut 
each lengthwise into 6 pieces, and place for 30 minutes, or longer, 
in cold water ; 20 minutes before serving put a kettle with 1% 
pound of lard or fat over the fire ; drain and dry the potatoes on a 
towel ; as soon as the fat is hot, put in some of the potatoes, not too 
many at one time ; fry till light brown ; then remove, and lay for a 
few minutes on blotting paper. When all are done, sprinkle over 
Ya teaspoonful salt, and serve on a hot dish, or use for garnishing. 

Potato Chateau. — Peel, wash, and cut 8 medium-sized potatoes 
into quarters, round the edges, and place in cold water ; 20 minutes 
before serving, drain and dry the potatoes on a towel. Place a ket- 
tle or a deep frying pan with lard or fat over the fire ; when hot put 
in some of the potatoes, not too many at a time ; fry till light 
brown and done ; then remove with a skimmer, lay for a few min- 
utes on blotting paper or brown paper. When all are done, melt 
1 tablespoonful butter in a frying pan, add 1 tablespoonful fine- 
chopped parsley, put in the potatoes, sprinkle over Ys teaspoonful 
salt, toss for a few minutes over the fire, then serve in a hot dish, or 
use as a garnish. 

Saratoga Chips. — Cut 6 medium-sized peeled potatoes into 
thin slices, lay in cold water. Place a frying kettle with lard or 
fat over the fire. Drain and dry the potatoes on a towel. As soon 
as the fat is hot put in some of the potatoes, not too many at a 
time, and fry light brown ; then remove with a skimmer, lay the 
chips for a few minutes on blotting paper ; sprinkle over 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, and serve on a hot dish. 

Potato Straws. — Cut 6 large peeled potatoes into slices, lay 
several slices over one another, and cut them into strips, like straws ; 



VEGETABLES. 463 

place them for 30 minutes in cold water ; then drain and dry them 
on a towel. Have a frying kettle with hot fat over the fire, put in 
some of the straws, not too many at a time, fry light brown ; re- 
move with a skimmer ; lay the potatoes for a few minutes on paper ; 
arrange on a hot dish, sprinkle over 1 even teaspoonful salt, and 
serve ; or use for garnished steak or chops. 

Potatoes, stuffed. — Peel 6 large potatoes, cut them length- 
wise in half, scoop out the center, and fill them with veal or sausage 
forcemeat ; place the potatoes side by side in a buttered pan, with 
the stuffed side up, and bake till light brown and done. Serve on 
a hot dish. 

Potatoes a la Florenzo. — Peel 6 large potatoes, wash and cut 
them into thin slices, lay several slices over one another, and cut 
them into fine strips, like straws. Butter 6 small molds and sprinkle 
them with bread crumbs. Season the potatoes with 1 teaspoonful 
salt and Y4 teaspoonful white pepper ; fill the molds half full with 
potatoes, sprinkle over each one Yg tablespoonful grated cheese; 
then fill with potatoes, cover with grated cheese, and pour 1 tea- 
spoonful melted butter over each one ; set the molds in a medium- 
hot oven, and bake till done. Shortly before serving turn the pota- 
toes out of molds, and serve on a hot dish or as a garnish. 

Potato Balls. — Peel 6 large potatoes, cut into round balls with 
a vegetable cutter, place in a saucepan, cover with cold water, add 
Y2 tablespoonful salt, and boil 5 minutes ; then drain off the water, 
melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add the potatoes, and cook till 
done, tossing occasionally ; sprinkle over 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped 
parsley, and serve on a hot dish or for garnishing. 

Potato a la Parisienne. — Cut 6 large peeled potatoes into 
balls with a vegetable cutter, place them in a buttered pan, pour 
over 2 ounces melted butter, and season with Ys teaspoonful salt ; 
bake in a medium-hot oven till done ; they should be of a handsome 
golden color. If they brown too much, cover with buttered paper ; 
use for garnishing. 



464 VEGETABLES. 

Potatoes a la Minden. — Peel, wash, and cut into slices 8 
medium-sized potatoes ; peel and chop fine 2 medium-sized onions ; 
place half the potato slices in a round buttered pan, sprinkle over 
half the chopped onions, season with Yg even teaspoonful salt, Y4 
even teaspoonful pepper, and Yg tablespoonf ul butter in small pieces, 
putting in the remaining potatoes and onions, season with the same 
amount of salt and pepper ; put Ys tablespoonful butter in small 
pieces over the top, cover the pan tightly, and place in a medium-hot 
oven ; bake until done — about 20 minutes — then serve on a hot dish. 

Potatoes a la Bismarck. — Bake 6 large well- washed potatoes 
in a hot oven till done ; take out, cut the potatoes in half, remove 
the pulp, and mix with 1 teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful nutmeg, 1 
ounce butter, and Y2 giU of cream. Then place 1 gill of milk with 
Ys ounce butter over the fire ; as soon as it boils add 2 tablespoonf uls 
of flour ; stir over the fire till it forms into a paste, then remove ; 
add this paste with the yolks of 2 eggs to the potatoes ; add lastly 
the 2 whites beaten to a stiff froth ; form this mixture into balls 
like an egg, sprinkle over some fresh grated bread crumbs, lay in a 
buttered pan, and bake to a fine golden color in a hot oven. 

Potato Shaying. — Peel and wash 6 large potatoes ; place in a 
machine (sold for that purpose), cut them into spirals, and put into 
water. Thirty minutes before serving take them from the water, 
drain, and dry in a towel, plunge into hot lard, and fry to a fine 
golden color; remove with a skimmer, lay for a few minutes on 
blotting paper, besprinkle with salt, and serve on a hot dish, or use 
as a garnish around broiled or fried meat or fish. 

Potatoes a la Sarah Bernhardt.— Cut with a spiral machine 
10 large raw potatoes into corkscrew shapes ; put them into cold 
water, drain and dry on a towel, plunge into hot lard, and fry to a 
fine golden color ; remove and drain them on blotting paper, 
sprinkle over a little salt, and serve on a hot dish. 

Potatoes a la Princesse. — Peel and wash 6 large potatoes ; 
place them in a saucepan, cover with cold water, add Vs tablespoon- 



VEGETABLES. 465 

f ul salt, and cook till done ; then drain and rub them through a 
sieve ; add 2 ounces butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, Yg teaspoonful nut- 
meg, Y2 Q^&'O- teaspoonful salt, 2 ounces grated cheese, mix well to- 
gether ; form the mixture into small walnut-shaped balls, dip in 
beaten egg, roll in fresh grated bread crumbs, and lay into a but- 
tered pan ; bake in a hot oven to a fine golden color. Serve on a 
hot dish, or arrange them in clusters around roasted meat. 

Potatoes, Sauted. — Peel and cut 6 medium-sized potatoes 
into quarters like cloves of garlic, and drop into cold water ; 20 
minutes before serving drain the potatoes and wipe dry with a clean 
towel. Place a deep frying pan with drippings or lard over the fire, 
sufiicient to cover the potatoes ; when boiling hot, put in as many 
potatoes as will conveniently go into the pan, fry until done ; then 
remove and fry the remainder the same way. Lay the potatoes 
for a few minutes on blotting paper to absorb the grease, then 
place them with Y2 ounce butter in a frying pan over the fire, 
and toss for a few minutes ; sprinkle over Y2 teaspoonful salt, and 
serve. 

Potatoes a I'Anglaise. — Boil 6 large potatoes with the skin 
till done ; drain and free them from the skin ; sprinkle over 1 even 
teaspoonful salt ; lay them in a pan, pour over each potato a little 
melted butter, and bake in a hot oven to a fine golden color ; serve 
on a hot dish. 

Potatoes a la Wurthfleth. — Boil and peel 8 medium-sized 
potatoes in 1 quart water with 1 tablespoonful salt until done ; 
drain and press the potatoes through a potato press or a sieve. Melt 
2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped 
onion, cook 5 minutes without browning ; add 1 gill of fine-chopped 
boiled ham, stir a few minutes ; then remove ; mix the potatoes with 
Y2 even teaspoonful salt and the same of white pepper ; also with the 
yolks of 3 eggs ; set Yg pint of these potatoes aside ; add to the re- 
mainder the onion and ham, also Y2 gill of boiling water with a little 
beef extract and 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley. Put the prepara- 



466 VEGETABLES. 

tion into a buttered souflfle dish ; add to the remaining Yg pint of 
potatoes the beaten whites of 3 eggs and 1 gill of cream ; spread 
it over the potatoes in pan, sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls fresh 
grated bread crumbs ; drop over Yg ounce melted butter, and bake 
to a fine golden color in a hot oven. 

Potatoes a la Tabatiere. — Prepare the potatoes as for cro- 
quettes and form them into round egg-sized balls. Melt 1 ounce 
butter, add 1 fine-chopped onion, Ys bay leaf, 6 coarsely pounded 
peppers, cook 5 minutes without browning; add Y2 tablespoonful flour, 
stir and cook 2 minutes ; add Y2 piiit white broth, Ys even teaspoon- 
ful salt, cook 5 minutes ; strain into a small saucepan ; add 2 table- 
spoonfuls fine-cut boiled beef tongue, 1 gill of fine-cut mushrooms, 

1 gill of fine-cut cooked chicken meat, Y2 tablespoonful lemon juice 
mixed with the yolk of 1 egg ; stir a few minutes over the fire, then 
set aside to cool. Scoop out the centers from the potato balls, and 
fill them with the above preparation ; close the opening, dip them 
in beaten egg, and roll in fresh grated bread crumbs; fry light 
brown in hot fat ; remove, lay them a few minutes on paper, and 
serve in a folded napkin. 

Petites Croflstades de Pommes de Terre.— Boil 1 quart 
peeled and washed potatoes with 1 quart of water and 1 table- 
spoonful salt ; when done drain off the water, let dry a few minutes 
over the fire, then rub them through a colander or through a potato 
press. Mix with IY2 ounce butter the yolks of 4 eggs, Y2 even tea- 
spoonful salt, and Y2 e^en teaspoonful pepper. Put the potatoes 

2 inches high into a buttered pan, set aside to cool ; 30 minutes be- 
fore serving heat the pan a little, turn the potatoes out, and cut 
them with a lY2-inch cutter into round pieces ; roll them in bread 
crumbs, dip in beaten egg, and cover with fresh grated bread crumbs. 
Make an incision on top of each one with a smaller cutter to form 
a cover, bake to a fine color in deep hot fat. When done lift them 
with a skimmer on to blotting paper, lift off the cover, take out the 
inside with a spoon, and fill with a clam puree or codfish a la cr^me ; 



VEGETABLES. 467 

replace the cover, and serve. Any kind of salpicon may be taken, 
or spaghetti I'ltalienne. 

Potatoes a I'Hanovrienne. — Peel, wash, and cut into quar- 
ters 8 good-sized potatoes, place them with 1 quart of cold water, 
and 1 tablespoonful salt over the fire, cook till done, then drain. 
Fry 2 ounces fine-chopped larding pork light brown, add 1 fine- 
chopped onion, cook 5 minutes ; add Yg tablespoonful flour, stir and 
cook 2 minutes ; add 1 gill of vinegar, 1 gill of Avhite broth, 74 tea- 
spoonful pepper, the same of salt and sugar, cook 5 minutes, add 
the potatoes ; toss them a few minutes over the fire, and serve. 

Potato Frite. — Peel 6 large potatoes, cut them into thick 
slices, the slices into strips, wash, drain, and dry on a towel ; plunge 
into hot fat, fry light brown ; remove with a skimmer ; lay them 
for a few minutes on blotting or brown paper ; sprinkle over some 
salt, and serve on a hot dish. 

Potatoes Messalina. — Peel, wash, and cut into quarters 6 large 
potatoes, dry on a towel, fry in hot fat till light brown, not too many 
at one time, then remove ; lay them aside for a few minutes. Let the 
fat get very hot and plunge the potatoes again into it, and fry a few 
minutes ; the potatoes will swell considerably and puff up. Eemove 
and lay them on paper, dust over with salt, and serve on a hot dish. 

Potatoes a I'Allemande. — Peel nicely 1 quart small German 
potatoes, wash, and place them in a saucepan over the fire ; cover 
with veal or chicken broth, add 1 teaspoonful salt, and cook till 
done. At the same time melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 
tablespoonful flour, stir, and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 pint of hot 
milk, a small bouquet, 6 whole peppers, Y2 teaspoonful nutmeg, 1 
even teaspoonful salt, cook 5 minutes ; then strain. Drain the po- 
tatoes in a sieve, return them in saucepan to the fire, pour over the 
sauce, toss them a few minutes over the fire ; sprinkle over 1 tea- 
spoonful chopped parsley, and serve. 

Potatoes a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Wash 1 quart medium-sized 
potatoes, place in a saucepan over the fire, cover with 1 quart cold 



468 VEGETABLES. 

water, boil until done ; drain off the water, remove the skin, and 
cut the potatoes into slices ; return into saucepan. Mix 1 ounce 
butter with 1 even teaspoonful salt, y^ even teaspoonful white pep- 
per, 74 teaspoonful nutmeg ; add gradually 2 tablespoonfuls lemon 
juice and 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley ; add this to the 
potatoes, toss them for a few minutes over the fire ; add 1 gill of 
hot cream, and serve. In place of cream 1 gill of white broth may 
be taken. 

Potatoes a la Diana. — Wash 6 large potatoes and bake them 
till done ; then remove ; cut them in half, remove the soft jDart, and 
mix it with 1 teaspoonful salt, 3 whole eggs, Yg teaspoonful nut- 
meg, and Ys gill of cream. Place a saucepan with 1 cup of milk 
and 2 ounces butter, a little salt, and a sprinkle of sugar over the 
fire ; as soon as it boils add 4 ounces flour, stir, and cook to a 
smooth paste ; then remove, add it to the potatoes, mix all well 
together ; form the preparation into egg-shaped balls ; dip into 
beaten egg, roll in grated bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard to a 
fine golden color ; remove them with a skimmer, drain on paper, 
and serve on a hot dish. 

Potatoes Yiennoise. — Boil 8 peeled potatoes with 1 table- 
spoonful salt in 1 quart of water ; when done drain and press 
through a potato press ; mix with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Yg even 
teaspoonful pepper, 2 ounces butter, the yolks of 3 eggs, Ya giU of 
cream, and 4 ounces grated Parmesan cheese. Mix well, and form 
the mixture into round balls the size of an egg. Sprinkle some 
flour on a pastry board, roll the potatoes into long shapes, thick in 
the center and pointed at the ends ; brush them over with beaten 
egg ; make two slanting incisions on top of each, lay them in a 
buttered pan, brush over again with egg, and bake to a fine golden 
color in a hot oven. 

Potatoes with Parsley Sauce. — Peel and wash 1 quart small 
potatoes, place with 1 quart of cold water in a saucepan over the 
fire, add 1 tablespoonful salt, boil until done. In the meantime 



VEGETABLES. 469 

melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add Yg tablespoonful 
flour, stir, and cook 3 minutes ; add IY2 cupful hot milk, cook 3 
minutes ; season with Yi teaspoonf ul salt and 1 tablespoonful fine- 
chopped parsley. Drain the potatoes, return them for a few min- 
utes in saucepan to the fire, add the sauce, and serve in a hot dish. 

HOW TO UTILIZE COLD POTATOES. 

Hashed Potatoes. — Chop fine some cold boiled potatoes ; for 
1 pint of chopped potatoes melt Ys tablespoonful butter in a frying 
pan, put in the potatoes, season with Ys even teaspoonful salt and 
Y4 even teaspoonful pepper, cover, and fry over moderate fire 5 min- 
utes ; remove the cover, stir for a few minutes, and serve. 

Potato Dumplings. — One quart of grated cold boiled pota- 
toes measured after they are grated, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonf uls flour, 
Ys teaspoonful seasoning salt ; mix the potatoes, flour, and season- 
ing salt together, beat the eggs until light, add to the potatoes, mix 
all together ; divide the preparation into 12 parts, roll each part 
into a round ball, drop into boiling salted water, and boil 15 min- 
utes; remove them with a skimmer, roll the dumplings in fine- 
sifted bread crumbs. Place a frying pan over the fire with 1 ounce 
butter ; when hot put in as many dumplings as will conveniently go 
in the pan, shake the pan until they are a delicate brown, then 
serve. These dumplings may be served without frying. 

Potato Dumplings Tvith Bread Croutons. — The same as in 
foregoing recipe, the only difference being to add in place of fiour 4 
tablespoonfuls grated bread crumbs. Another way is to form the 
above preparation into balls the size of an egg, press them flat, and 
put in the center 4 small dice-shaped pieces of bread which have pre- 
viously been fried in butter ; then form the potatoes into a round 
ball again, and flnish the same as in foregoing recipe. 

Potato Dumplings with Farina.— Peel, wash, and boil 8 
medium-sized potatoes with 1 quart water and 1 tablespoonful salt ; 
when done, drain and mash the potatoes, mix with 2 eggs, a little salt, 



470 VEGETABLES. 

and 2 tablespoonf uls dry farina ; form the preparation into balls the 
size of an egg; drop into boiling salted water and boil 12 minutes; 
remove with a skimmer, lay on a hot dish, pour over Yg cupful 
grated bread crumbs fried brown in butter, and serve. 

This preparation may be formed into small balls the size of 
a hickory nut and boiled in soup ; also fine-chopped parsley may be 



Hashed Potatoes with Onions.— Chop fine some cold boiled 
potatoes ; for 1 quart of chopped potatoes melt 1 small tablespoonful 
butter in a frying pan, add the potatoes, season with Yg teaspoonful 
salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cover and fry 5 minutes ; stir them well, 
add 1 fine-chopped onion, cover and cook 3 minutes, and serve. 

Fried Potatoes. — Cut some cold boiled potatoes into slices; 
place a frying pan with 1 tablespoonful drippings over the fire, add 

1 quart of sliced potatoes, season with Yg teaspoonful seasoning salt ; 
cover the pan and fry over slow fire 10 minutes, stirring occasion- 
ally ; then serve. 

Fried Potatoes with Green Onions. — Prepare potatoes the 
same as in foregoing recipe, and 2 minutes before serving add 1 
cupful fine-cut green onion, cover, cook 2 minutes, and serve. In 
place of green onions, Ys cupful fine-chopped onion may be added, or 

2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped chives. 

Potato Salad. — See my book Desserts and Salads, recipe 892. 

SWEET POTATOES. 

Sweet-potato Croquettes. — Mash 6 peeled and boiled sweet 
potatoes fine ; mix them with 1 ounce butter, 2 eggs, and season with 
Y2 teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, mixing all together ; then 
form the potatoes into cork-shaped croquettes or into small round 
balls ; dip them into beaten egg, and roll in fresh grated bread 
crumbs ; fry light brown in hot fat ; remove, and lay for a few min- 
utes on blotting paper ; then serve on a hot dish with roasted, broiled, 
or fried meat or chicken. 



VEGETABLES. 471 

Sweet Potatoes, Boiled. — Place 6 well-washed sweet potatoes 
in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and cook till done ; then 
drain, free the potatoes from their skin, and serve in a hot dish. 

Sweet Potatoes, Boiled and Baked.— Boil and peel 6 sweet 
potatoes the same as in foregoing recipe, lay them in a shallow tin 
pan, pour little melted butter over each potato, place the pan in a 
hot oven, and bake till they have obtained a fine golden color; 
serve with roasted meat or poultry. Another way is to cut the 
boiled potatoes lengthwise into thick slices or crosswise, and fry 
light brown in butter or fat. 

Sweet-potato Balls. — Peel and cut into balls 4 large sweet 
potatoes with a vegetable cutter, place in a saucepan, cover with boil- 
ing water, boil 5 minutes ; then drain off the water, return the pota- 
to balls in saucepan to the fire, add 1 tablespoonful butter, cook 
till done, stirring occasionally, and use for garnishing. Another 
way is to lay the raw potato balls in a buttered pan, pour a little 
melted butter over, bake in the oven till done, and use the same as 
above. 

TOMATOES. 

Tomatoes, Stewed. — Place 8 medium-sized tomatoes in a 
bowl, cover with boiling water, then remove the skins ; cut the 
tomatoes into quarters, and place in a saucepan over the fire ; add 1 
teaspoonful salt, Y^ teaspoonf ul white pepper, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 
Y2 ounce butter, cook 20 minutes, and serve. If too thin add 
1 teaspoonful cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water, cook a few 
minutes ; then serve. 

Tomatoes, Fried. — Wash and wipe 4 large tomatoes, cut each 
one into 3 slices ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y'g even tea- 
spoonful pepper, dust over with flour ; dip each slice separately into 
beaten egg, and cover with grated bread crumbs. Place a large 
frying pan with 1 heaping tablespoonful lard or drippings over the 
fire ; when hot, put in as many of the tomato slices as conveniently 



472 VEGETABLES. 

will go in the pan without crowding ; fry light brown on both 
sides ; remove them to a hot dish, and serve with fried or baked 
fish, or broiled or fried chops and steak. 

Tomato, Sauted. — Place a deep frying pan over the fire with 

2 ounces butter ; have the skins removed from 6 tomatoes, cut in 
halves and press each half gently in the hand to remove some of 
their moisture. Lay the tomatoes in the melted butter, sprinkle 
over 1 even teaspoonful seasoning salt, cover and cook 6 minutes ; 
then turn them over, cook 5 minutes longer without a cover. Serve 
on a hot dish. 

Tomatoes, Stuffed. — Select 6 large ripe tomatoes, cut a thin 
slice from their blossom side, scoop out, and season the inside with 1 
teaspoonful seasoning salt, equally distributed. Melt 1 ounce butter 
in a small saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, cook 

3 minutes ; then add 2 ounces fine-chopped fresh pork (or sausage 
meat) ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Yg even teaspoonful 
pepper, stir and cook 5 minutes ; add the scooped-out tomatoes and 

4 tablespoonfuls bread crumbs, and, if handy, 2 tablespoonfuls fine- 
chopped mushrooms, stir this for a few minutes over the fire ; fill 
the tomatoes with this preparation, set in a buttered pan with the 
stuffed side toward the pan ; cover with buttered paper, and bake 
from 15 to 20 minutes in a hot oven. Eemove from the oven as 
soon as done, and serve. (If sausage meat is used, take only half 
the seasoning.) 

Tomatoes stuffed with Rice Forcemeat.— Cut the blossom 
side from 6 tomatoes, scoop them out, and season each one with a 
little salt and pepper. Place 3 tablespoonfuls rice in a saucepan 
over the fire, cover with cold water, and cook 10 minutes ; then 
drain in a sieve and rinse off with cold water. Melt 1 ounce butter 
in a small saucepan, add 1 fine-chopped onion, Yg fine-cut green 
pepper without the seeds, cook 6 minutes ; add 6 fine-cut mush- 
rooms, 3 tablespoonfuls of the tomato which was scooped out ; sea- 
son with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, add the rice, 



VEGETABLES. 473 

cook 6 minutes ; then fill the tomatoes with this preparation, place 
them with the open side downward in a buttered tin pan, pour a 
little melted butter over each one ; set in a hot oven, and bake till 
done ; if the tomatoes should get too brown, cover with buttered 
paper. This quantity will fill 6 large tomatoes or 10 medium-sized 
ones. Care must be taken to remove them as soon as done ; it will 
take from 20 to 25 minutes to cook them. 

Tomatoes a la Traviata. — Wash and wipe 4 medium-sized 
tomatoes, cut them in halves. Place a deep frying pan over the 
fire with 2 ounces butter, add 1 gill of fine-chopped onion, cook 5 
minutes without browning ; put in the tomatoes ; sprinkle over 1 
even teaspoonful salt, Yg even teaspoonful white pepper, cover and 
cook 6 minutes ; then turn the tomatoes, cook without a cover 5 
minutes longer. Lay the tomatoes carefully on a hot dish, pour the 
sauce over, and serve. They may also be used as a garnish. 

Tomatoes, Baked. — Scald 6 tomatoes in boiling water, remove 
skins, cut into halves, squeeze each half lightly in the hand to press 
out the moisture ; lay them in a round tin pan, pour over 1 ounce 
melted butter, sprinkle 1 even teaspoonful salt and Yg teaspoonful 
pepper on them, and bake 10 minutes in a hot oven, basting fre- 
quently. Arrange nicely on a warm dish, or use as a garnish for 
chicken saute or beefsteak. 

Tomatoes, Roasted. — Put 6 medium-sized tomatoes in a 
bowl, pour over boiling water, remove the skins, cut a piece from 
tops, scoop out, season with Ys tablespoonful seasoning salt, equally 
divided ; put a small piece of butter into each one ; place in a 
buttered pan ; pour a little melted butter over each, put on the 
pieces cut off, set the pan in a hot oven, and bake 15 minutes ; then 
carefully remove them with a pancake turner to a hot dish, and 
serve. 

Tomato Gratines. — Scald and remove the skins from 6 ripe 
tomatoes, cut them in halves, press out the seeds ; melt 1 ounce 
butter in a saucepan, put in the tomatoes, sprinkle over 1 even tea- 



474 VEGETABLES. 

spoonful salt and Yg even teaspoonful pepper, cover and cook 5 min- 
utes ; turn and cook 5 minutes longer. In the meantime place a small 
saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the fire, add 1 gill fine-chopped 
onion, cook 3 minutes ; add Yg fine-chopped green pepper without 
the seeds, 6 fine-chopped mushrooms, Ys giU fine-chopped cooked 
ham, and 1 even teaspoonful salt, cover and cook 5 minutes without 
browning. Put the tomatoes in a buttered dish ; add the sauce 
from the saucepan, sprinkle over 3 tablespoonfuls grated cheese 
and 1 tablespoonful grated bread, also a little melted butter, and 
bake till light brown, then serve in the same dish. The cheese may 
be omitted if not liked. 

Canned Tomatoes, Stewed. — Open a can of tomatoes, pour 
them into a saucepan, add 1 teaspoonful salt, Ys even teaspoonful 
pepper, Ys tablespoonful butter, and 1 tablespoonful sugar, cook 15 
minutes ; if too thin mix 1 teaspoonful cornstarch with a little cold 
water, add it to the tomatoes, cook 5 minutes ; then serve. 

Tomato Toast. — Toast 8 small slices of bread, butter them on 
one side, lay the toast on a hot dish with the buttered side up. 
Stew a can of tomatoes as in foregoing recipe (omitting the corn- 
starch) ; pour the tomatoes over the toast, and serve. Another way 
is to lay on each piece of toast a thin slice of broiled or fried bacon, 
and pour the tomatoes over it. 

Tomato Salad. — See my book Desserts and Salads, recipe 883. 

Stuffed Green Peppers. — Put 6 fresh green peppers in hot 
fat to remain 2 minutes ; take them from the fat, remove the skin, 
cut a round piece off the bottom, remove the inside, and fill with 
the following forcemeat : Place a small saucepan with Ys ounce but- 
ter over the fire, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, cook 3 
minutes ; then add 4 ounces sausage meat or fine-chopped veal, 2 
tablespoonfuls fine-chopped mushrooms, 1 fine-chopped tomato, 
season with pepper and salt, stir and cook 3 minutes ; remove from 
the fire ; add 3 tablespoonfuls fresh-grated bread crumbs and 1 ta- 
blespoonful milk ; fill the peppers with this preparation, place in a 



VEGETABLES. 475 

buttered pan, the stuffed side downward ; cover with buttered paper, 
and bake till done — about 20 minutes. Serve with Madeira, Colbert, 
or truffle sauce. 

A9PAEAGUS. 

Asparagus with Melted Butter,— Peel and wash 1 or 2 fine 
fresh bunches of asparagus; tie each bunch into 3 bundles, the 
heads all one way, the ends cut off evenly. Place the asparagus in 
a saucepan, cover with boiling water, cook 25 minutes ; then add to 
each bunch 1 teaspoonf ul salt ; draw the saucepan to side of stove, 
let simmer 5 minutes. Lift out and drain ; arrange them nicely on 
a hot dish, pour over some melted butter, allowing 2 ounces for each 
bunch. 

Asparagus h, I'Americaine. — Prepare 2 bunches of asparagus 
as in foregoing recipe ; toast and butter 6 small slices of bread ; 
place the toast on a hot dish, pour 1 tablespoonful asparagus water 
over each piece ; lay the asparagus over the toast, pour over 4 ounces 
melted butter, then serve. 

Asparagus a PAllemaude.— Boil 1 bunch of asparagus as in 
foregoing recipe ; 10 minutes before serving mix 1 tablespoonful 
flour with Y2 gill of cold water, add the yolks of 2 eggs, stir for a 
few minutes ; then add gradually IY3 cupful asparagus water while 
stirring constantly over the fire till nearly boiling ; add in small 
portions 2 ounces butter, stir until the butter is well mingled with 
the sauce ; then add 1 gill of rich sweet cream or 1 tablespoonful 
unsweetened condensed milk. Arrange the asparagus on a hot 
dish, and serve the sauce in a sauce bowl. 

Asparagus Hollandaise. — Boil 2 bunches of asparagus as in 
former recipe ; place in a saucepan 1 tablespoonful butter and 1 
fine-chopped onion ; add 6 whole peppers and Yg bay leaf, cook 5 
minutes without browning ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful flour, stir 
and cook 3 minutes ; then add 1 pint of chicken or veal broth ; 
season with 1 even teaspoonf ul salt, Y2 teaspoonful nutmeg, cook 5 
31 



476 VEGETABLES. 

minutes ; stndn through a sieve into a saucepan. Mix the yolks of 
2 eggs with 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, add it gradually to the 
sauce ; set the saucepan on side the stove, add slowly while stirring 
1 ounce butter in small portions ; stir until hot, without letting it 
boil, then serve in a sauce bowl. Sufficient for a family of 6. 

Asparagus a I'ltalienne. — Boil 1 bunch of asparagus as in 
foregoing recipe ; lay it in layers in a dish ; sprinkle over each layer 

1 tablespoonful grated cheese until all is used. Melt 2 ounces but- 
ter in a small saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, 
cook 5 minutes ; spread them over the asparagus ; sprinkle 2 table- 
spoonfuls grated cheese over the top and 1 tablespoonful grated 
bread crumbs. Bake till light brown in a hot oven, and serve in 
the same dish. 

Asparagus a la Tinaigrette. — Boil 2 bunches of asparagus 
the same as asparagus with melted butter. Eub the yolks of 3 
hard-boiled eggs fine, add drop by drop 3 tablespoonfuls salad oil ; 
then 2 tablespoonfuls white vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of very finely 
chopped white shallots or onions, 1 even tablespoonful of salt, 1 even 
teaspoonf ul white pepper ; mix well together ; serve with the boiled 
asparagus either hot or cold. 

Asparagus with Latana Sauce. — Rub fine with a spoon the 
yolk of 1 hard-boiled egg, add gradually V/s tablespoonful salad 
oil, then 1 tablespoonful white vinegar, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Yg 
even teaspoonful white pepper, 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped onion, 
the fine-minced white of the boiled egg, mix all together ; add last 

2 tablespoonfuls of whipped cream (or 1 tablespoonful unsweetened 
condensed milk) and 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley. Serve 
with boiled asparagus either hot or cold. 

Asparagus with Peas. — Peel 1 bunch of asparagus and cut 
the tender parts into 1-inch pieces ; place in a saucepan, cover 
with boiling water, add 1 teaspoonful salt, and boil till done. At 
the same time put 1 pint of young green peas in a saucepan over 



VEGETABLES. 477 

the fire, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, cover with boiling water, boil till 
tender and nearly dry. Melt in another saucepan 2 ounces butter, 
add 1 tablespoonf ul flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add lYg cupful 
asparagus water, cook and stir a few minutes ; mix the yolks of 2 
eggs with Ys cupful cream, add it to the sauce, stir until hot, not allow- 
ing it to boil. Drain the asparagus on a sieve, drain also the peas ; 
place them in a hot dish, pour over the sauce, and serve. 

Asparagus, Stewed. — Cut 1 bunch of peeled and well-washed 
asparagus into Yg-inch pieces, place them in a saucepan, cover 
with boiling water, add Ys tablespoonful salt, and boil till tender. 
In the meantime melt 1 tablespoonful butter, add Y2 tablespoonful 
flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 cupful of asparagus water 
and Ys cupful milk, cook 5 minutes ; drain the asparagus and put 
it in the sauce, return it for a few minutes over the fire, then pour 
it over 6 small slices of buttered toast. 

Asparagus, Fried. — Season 1 bunch of cooked asparagus with 
1 even teaspoonful seasoning salt, dust with flour, dip in beaten 
egg, and roll in fine sifted bread crumbs. Place Ys ounce lard and 
Ya ounce butter in a frying pan over the fire ; as soon as hot put in 
as many asparagus pieces as will conveniently go into the pan, fry 
light brown, and serve on a hot dish. In place of lard, beef fat 
may be taken. 

Asparagus Salad. — See my book Desserts and Salads, recipe 
86G. 

CABBAGE, Etc. 

Creamed Cabbage. — Eemove the outer leaves from a medium- 
sized head of cabbage, cut the head into quarters ; core, wash, and 
place the cabbage in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 1 
tablespoonful sugar, and boil till done ; add Y2 tablespoonful salt, 
draw the saucepan to side of stove, let simmer 10 minutes. Fifteen 
minutes before serving melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 pint of 



478 VEGETABLES. 

hot milk, 1 even teaspoonful salt, '/^ teaspoonful white pepper, cook 
5 minutes. Drain the cabbage on a sieve, place it in a hot dish, 
pour the sauce over, and serve. 

Cabbage Rolls. — Remove the outer leaves from a medium- 
sized head of cabbage, cut out the root and heart ; place the cab- 
bage in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water, cook 10 
minutes ; drain on a sieve and rinse off with cold water, then divide 
the leaves into 6 parts, season with salt and pepper, and set aside 
until following forcemeat is prepared : Soak 2 ounces bread 10 min- 
utes in cold water, inclose and press out in a towel. Place a 
saucepan with Yg tablespoonful butter over the fire, add 1 table- 
spoonful fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes without browning ; 
add the bread, stir and cook 3 minutes ; remove, and when cold 
add 4 ounces sausage meat, Yg even teaspoonful salt and the same 
of pepper, 1 egg, Ys teaspoonful thyme, and Y4 teaspoonful nutmeg ; 
divide this equally over each part of cabbage, roll up, and tie with a 
string. Lay 3 thin slices of salt pork in a pan large enough to 
receive the rolls, add 1 small sliced carrot and 1 sliced onion ; put 
the rolls on top, add 1 cupful white broth, lay 2 thin slices of pork 
over the top, cover with buttered paper, set the pan in a hot oven, 
and bake till done (about 40 to 50 minutes), basting frequently. 
Cabbage prepared in this way is mostly used as a garnish for boiled 
or braised beef, lamb, or mutton. 

Cabbage, StuflFed. — Prepare a forcemeat as in foregoing recipe. 
Eemove the outer leaves from a nice medium-sized head of cabbage, 
cut out the root, place the cabbage in a saucepan, cover with boiling 
water, add Ys tablespoonful salt, boil 10 minutes ; then drain and 
cool the cabbage in cold water ; remove and drain off all the water, 
then open the leaves and put the forcemeat between them, tie 
securely with a cord so that the forcemeat can not escape ; sprinkle 
over Y2 tablespoonful salt and 1 even teaspoonful pepper, cover the 
bottom of a round deep pan with 2 sliced onions, 3 slices of salt 
pork, and a few slices of carrot ; lay the cabbage on top, add 1 pint 



VEGETABLES. 479 

white broth, cover with buttered paper, and cook till done, basting 
frequently. TV hen ready to serve, untie the cabbage, lay it on a hot 
dish, and serve. 

Brown Kale a la Paysanne d'Allemande. — For a family of 
6 take 4 large or 6 small heads of brown kale, remove and throw 
away the withered leaves ; strip the kale from the stems, cut the 
small center leaves into small pieces, wash thoroughly several times 
in cold water; drain well and put in a large covered saucepan, 
cover with boiling water and boil 10 minutes; then remove the 
kale with a skimmer to a colander to drain ; throw the water in 
which the kale was boiled away ; return the kale to the saucepan, 
cover with fresh boiling water ; wash 2 pounds of bacon in warm 
water, lay it in the center of kale ; add 4 medium-sized fine-cut 
onions, 4 tablespoonfuls oatmeal, 4 ounces fine-chopped suet, Yg 
tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 
cover closely, and boil till done, which will take about 2 hours. 
Taste ; if necessary, add more salt. 

Brown Kale with Pinkel. — Prepare the kale as in forego- 
ing recipe, omitting the suet. Procure from a German delicates- 
sen store a nice pinkel, wash, lay it on top the kale, and boil till 
done. 

Brown Kale with Chestnuts. — Procure 3 nice heads of 
brown kale, remove the withered leaves and strip the kale from 
the stems, wash it thoroughly several times in cold water ; place it 
in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, set over the fire, and cook 
10 minutes ; drain in a colander and chop coarsely on a board ; re- 
turn the kale to the saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls poultry fat or 
pure leaf lard ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, 1 even teaspoon- 
ful pepper, and 1 fine-chopped onion, cover with boiling water, and 
boil till done, which will take IY2 hour. At the same time place 1 
pound large chestnuts over the fire, cook 20 minutes ; drain, and 
remove the skin ; return the chestnuts in a saucepan to the fire, 
cover with white bouillon or broth, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and 



480 VEGETABLES. 

boil till tender ; then drain, add 1 ounce butter, and toss for a few 
minutes over the fire. Arrange the kale on a hot dish, around it 
lay the chestnuts, and around the chestnuts a border of small fried 
German potatoes. 

Spinach a la Creme. — Cut off the stalks from Yg peck of 
spinach, trim it ueatl}^, and wash it 4 times in plenty of cold water ; 
place in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add Yg tablespoonful 
salt ; if very young boil it 10 minutes, if old 15 minutes. Remove, 
drain, and press out all the water, then chop it very fine. Melt 2 
ounces butter in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir, and cook 
2 minutes ; add Yg pint cream or milk, Ys even teaspoonful salt, Y4 
teaspoonful white pepper, cook a few minutes ; add the spinach, 
stir for a few minutes ; dress on a hot dish, and garnish with 6 
poached eggs or 3 hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters. 

Spinach a I'Americaine. — Prepare and wash Y2 peek of 
spinach as in foregoing recipe ; place it over the fire in a saucepan, 
cover with boiling water, add Yg tablespoonful salt, boil 15 minutes ; 
then drain well in a colander, cut through it several times with a 
knife, place it in a hot covered dish, put 1 ounce butter in small 
pieces over the top ; cover, and set the dish for a few minutes in 
front of oven ; garnish with 3 hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, 
and serve with vinegar. 

Spinach a I'Espagnole. — Clean and cook Y2 peck spinach the 
same as spinach a la creme ; chop it fine. Melt 2 ounces butter in 
a saucepan, add the spinach, Ys cupful seedless raisins, and Y2 cup- 
ful fine-chopped almonds ; season with Y2 even teaspoonful pepper 
and salt to taste ; serve on a hot dish, with 6 bread croutons. 

Spinach a I'AUemande. — Clean and boil Y2 peck spinach the 
same as spinach a la creme ; drain, and chop it fine. Melt 1 table- 
spoonful nice fat in a saucepan, add 1 fine-chopped onion, cook 5 
minutes without browning ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir 2 min- 
utes ; add IY2 cup of soup stock, cook 3 minutes ; add the spinach, 
cook, and stir for a few minutes over the fire ; taste ; if necessary, 



VEGETABLES, 481 

add more salt. Serve on a hot dish, garnish with hard-boiled eggs 
cut into quarters, or poached eggs. 

Red Cabbage cooked with Apples. — Place a saucepan with 
lYa heaping tablespoonful lard over the fire, add 2 quarts fine- 
shredded red cabbage, cook, and stir 5 minutes over the fire ; add 
ly^ pint of boiling water, 2 onions with 3 cloves stuck into each, 1 
tablespoonful salt, V* tablespoonful pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 
Y4 pound dried apples previously soaked Yg hour in cold water; 
cover, and cook slowly IY3 hour ; then add Y2 cup of white vinegar, 
boil 10 minutes longer, and serve. 

Red Cabbage a PAllemande. — Two and a half quarts of fine- 
shredded red cabbage, IY2 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even table- 
spoonful pepper, 1 cup boiling water, 1 glass of apple jelly, 2 large 
onions with 3 cloves stuck in each one, 2 cupfuls red wine, Ys cup 
vinegar, 1 cup pure lard. Place a large saucepan with the lard 
over the fire, add the cabbage, stir until well mixed ; add 1 cup 
boiling water, the salt, pepper, and onions, cook 15 minutes ; then 
add the wine and jelly, cover, and let it cook gently ; when tender, 
add Y2 cup vinegar, cook 10 minutes longer, and serve. 

Cauliflower a I'Allemande. — Separate the roses of a nice 
head of cauliflower ; wash in cold water, and place the roses in a 
saucepan ; cover with boiling water, and boil till tender ; then add 
Ys tablespoonful salt, and draw the saucepan to the side of stove to 
keep hot until the following sauce is made : Mix in a saucepan 1 
heaping tablespoonful flour with Y2 cupful cold water, add the yolks 
of 2 eggs; when well mixed add slowly, stirring constantly, 1% 
cupful of the cauliflow^ water and 1 tablespoonful butter ; stir the 
sauce over the fire till nearly boiling, then remove instantly, add 2 
tablespoonfuls sweet cream or 1 tablespoonful unsweetened con- 
densed milk. Put the cauliflower in a dish, and pour the sauce 
over it. The cauliflower may be boiled whole without separating 
the roses. 



482 VEGETABLES. 

Cauliflower au Gratin. — Clean a large head of cauliflower 
and wash it well in cold water ; place it in a saucepan, cover with 
boiling water, add Yg tablespoonful salt, boil 15 minutes ; then re- 
move the cauliflower from the saucepan and separate the roses. 
Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add 2 heaping tablespoonfuls 
flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add Yg V^^^ ^^ chicken broth and 1 
pint of hot milk, 1 teaspoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful nutmeg, and a 
small bouquet, cook 6 minutes; remove the bouquet; mix the yolks 
of 3 eggs with 1 gill of cream, add it to the sauce ; remove from 
fire ; pour a few spoonfuls of the sauce in a dish, put the cauliflower 
on top of the sauce with the stems downward, then pour the remain- 
ing sauce over the cauliflower ; sprinkle over 4 tablespoonfuls grated 
Parmesan cheese or American cheese, 1 tablespoonful grated bread 
crumbs, and a little melted butter ; place the dish in a medium-hot 
oven, and bake to a fine golden color ; then serve in the same dish 
with a folded napkin around it. 

Cauliflower a la Tilleroi. — Prepare a Villeroi sauce (see 
Sauces). Separate the roses of a nice head of cauliflower, place in 
a saucepan, cover with boiling water, boil 15 minutes ; then add Ys 
tablespoonful salt, draw the saucepan to side of stove, let it remain 
5 minutes ; di-ain the roses in a sieve, dry on a napkin, sprinkle over 
1 even tablespoonful salt and a sprinkle of nutmeg, dip in the 
Villeroi sauce, lay on a flat dish, and set in a cool place till cold ; 
dip them in fresh grated bread crumbs, then in beaten egg, and 
again in bread crumbs ; fry light brown in deep hot fat, like crullers ; 
remove them with a skimmer to paper, and serve on a hot dish ; or 
use as a garnish around roasted veal or broiled meat. 

Savoy Cal)bage a la Bechamel. — Remove the outer leaves 
from a nice head of Savoy cabbage, cut it into quarters, remove the 
core, and wash the cabbage in cold water ; drain ; place it in a sauce- 
pan, cover with boiling water, add 1 tablespoonful sugar, and boil 
till nearly done ; then add Y2 tablespoonful salt, and cook till tender. 
Shortly before serving, melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, 



VEGETABLES. 483 

add 1 tablespoonf ul flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 1 pint of 
boiling milk, 1 even teaspoonful salt, boil 3 minutes ; drain off all 
the water from the cabbage, lay it in a hot dish, and pour the sauce 
over it. 

Sayoy Cabbage with Butter. — Boil a head of Savoy cabbage, 
as in foregoing recipe ; drain in a sieve ; put the cabbage in a hot 
covered dish ; lay 2 ounces butter in small pieces over the cabbage, 
cover and place it for a few minutes in front of oven, long enough 
to melt the butter ; then serve. 

Brussels Sprouts a la Creme. — Clean and wash 1 quart Brus- 
sels sprouts, place them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 
1 even teaspoonful salt, and boil till tender, about 20 minutes ; then 
drain in a sieve. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 tea- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add % pint cream or milk, 
cook 2 minutes ; season with a sprinkle of salt and sugar. Place 
the sprouts in a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve. 

Brussels Sprouts sauted in Butter.— Clean and wash in cold 
water 1 quart of Brussels sprouts ; place them in a saucepan, cover 
with boiling water, add Yg teaspoonful sugar, and boil 10 minutes ; 
drain and rinse off with cold water. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in 
a saucepan, add the sprouts, 1 even teaspoonful salt, and Y4 even 
teaspoonful white pepper ; cover and cook till done, about 10 min- 
utes; then serve. 

Sauerkraut with Pigs' Tails.— For a family of 6 take 2 
quarts of sauerkraut and 3 pounds pigs' tails. Hold the tails over 
a gas jet, light, or burning paper and singe off the hair ; scald in 
boiling water and rinse off in cold water ; place the tails in a sauce- 
pan, the kraut on top ; add sufficient boiling water to nearly cover 
the kraut, put on the cover, and boil lYo hour. Peel 1 large potato, 
wash and grate, and add it to the sauerkraut, stir and boil 5 minutes ; 
serve the pigs' tails on a hot dish and the kraut in a covered dish. 
Sauerkraut is at times neither salty nor sour enough ; in that case, 
add some salt and 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar ; if the kraut 



484 VEGETABLES. 

is too salty or too sour, it must be washed in cold water before 
boiling. 

Sauerkraut with Chestnut Pur^e. — Place IV2 quart of 
sauerkraut in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 4 ounces 
pure lard and Y2 pound of parboiled salt pork, cover and boil IY4 
hour ; then pour the kraut into a colander, drain off all the water 
and fat, return it to saucepan, add 1 pint white wine, and cook 15 
minutes. At the same time prepare a chestnut puree. When ready 
to serve, dress the kraut on a hot dish and lay the chestnut puree 
in a circle around the dish ; or put the puree in a border form, 
turn it on to a hot dish, and put the sauerkraut in the center. 
Serve with fresh roasted ham, roasted pork, braised poultry, or with 
boiled ham. 

Sauerkraut with Puree of Peas.— Place 3 pints sauerkraut 
in a saucepan, add 3 pints boiling water. Place Vj^ pound of lean 
bacon or lean salt pork in another saucepan over the fire, cover 
with cold water, boil 30 minutes ; remove and rinse with cold water, 
then add it to the sauerkraut, and boil till tender. Shortly before 
serving, remove the pork or bacon and lay it on a hot dish ; dust % 
tablespoonful flour over the sauerkraut, and cook a few minutes. 
At the same time wash 1 pint of split or shelled peas, place 
them in a saucepan with 1 quart of cold meat broth, add 1 whole 
onion and Yg carrot, boil until done and thick (if necessary add 
more broth) ; when done press the peas through a sieve into a clean 
saucepan, add Y2 ounce butter, and season to taste with salt and a 
little white pepper. Dress the sauerkraut on a dish, and lay the 
pea puree as a border around the kraut ; cut the pork or bacon into 
slices, and lay them around the pea puree ; or serve each in separate 
dishes. Another way is to put some pigs' knuckles in a saucepan 
over the fire, cover with boiling water, and cook 1 hour ; then add 
the sauerkraut and cook IY2 hour. Taste, and if the kraut has not 
enough salt add some, and if not sour enough add a little vinegar. 
When done serve on separate dishes. If salted pigs' knuckles are 



VEGETABLES. 485 

taken, boil 30 minutes, then drain, and wash off with cold water ; 
return the knuckles to the saucepan, add fresh boiling water, and 
cook 30 minutes ; then add the kraut and boil till done. 

Sauerkraut boiled Plain. — Place 3 pints of sauerkraut in a 
saucepan over the fire, cover with 1 quart boiling water, add 2 ounces 
pure leaf lard or beef fat, and cook lYg hour ; then dust over Yg 
tablespoonful flour, stir and cook a few minutes ; serve with roasted 
or fried pork, tenderloin, or boiled corned ham. If roasted pork is 
served with the kraut, add in place of lard a few spoonfuls of the 
pork fat shortly before serving. 

Sauerkraut with Frankfurter Sausages.— Cook 3 pints of 
sauerkraut as in the foregoing recipe ; 15 minutes before serving, 
wash lYa pound of Frankfiirter sausages in cold water, lay them on 
top the kraut, cover tightly, draw the saucepan to side of stove, let it 
remain 10 minutes ; then remove the sausages ; grate 1 large peeled 
raw potato, add it to the kraut, stir and boil 5 minutes ; then serve. 

Sea Kale. — Prepared and cooked the same as Brussels sprouts. 

BEANS. 

String Beans a rAllemande.— Cut off the tops and bottoms 
of 2 quarts of fresh string beans, remove the strings from both 
sides, cut them slantingly into fine slices, wash in cold water, then 
place in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water ; add 
Ys tablespoonful salt, cook till tender, which will take about 2 
hours ; drain in a colander. Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, 
add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes; add 1 pint of 
milk, 1 even teaspoonful salt, and Y4 teaspoonful white pepper, cook 
3 minutes ; add the beans, stir for 5 minutes over the fire ; taste ; 
if necessary, add more salt ; add 1 tablespoonful fine- chopped pars- 
ley, and serve. 

■ String BeanS; Hanovarian Style.— Boil 2 quarts of string 
beans as in foregoing recipe. Melt 1 tablespoonful nice drippings 
in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, cook 5 



486 VEGETABLES. 

minutes; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes; then 
add Ys pint of broth or water and 3 tablespoonf uls vinegar, cook 3 
minutes. Drain the beans, add them to the sauce ; taste ; if neces- 
sary, add more salt ; and serve. 

String Beans a I'Americaine. — String and wash 2 quarts 
beans, cut them slantingly into pieces, place in saucepan, cover with 
boiling water, add Yg tablespoonful salt, and boil till tender ; then 
drain in a colander, put in a hot dish. Melt 2 ounces butter in a 
saucepan and pour it over the beans, mix with 2 forks, and serve. 

String Beans, Tiennoise.— Prepare and cook 2 quarts of 
beans as in foregoing recipe ; when done drain them in a colander. 
Melt 1 tablespoonful butter or beef fat in a saucepan, add 1 table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook a few minutes ; add 1 pint of mutton 
or lamb broth, cook 3 minutes ; add the beans, stir and cook a few 
minutes ; season to taste with salt and pepper, then serve. 

String Beans, Sauted. — Procure 1 quart very young fresh 
string beans, cut off the top and bottom, remove the strings from 
both sides, wash well in cold water, place in a saucepan, cover with 
boiling water, add Ys teaspoonful salt, and boil 30 minutes ; drain, 
and put them into cold water ; when thoroughly cold drain again^ 
and dry on a towel ; melt IY2 ounce butter in a saucepan, add the 
beans, toss 10 minutes over the fire; season to taste with salt, then 
serve. 

String Beans a la Creme. — Prepare and boil 2 quarts of 
young string beans in salted water as in foregoing recipe ; return 
the beans to the saucepan, add 2 ounces butter, toss for a few min- 
utes over the fire ; mix IY2 cup of cream with the yolks of 3 eggs, 
add them to the beans, stir until nearly boiling ; season to taste 
with salt, add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley, and serve. 

Beans with Pork and Yinegar.— String and wash 2 quarts 
string beans, cut them slantingly into pieces, boil in salted water as 
in foregoing recipe ; when done, drain in a colander, place a sauce- 



VEGETABLES. 48Y 

pan with 2 ounces fine-cut larding pork over the fire, fry until it 
turns a straw-color ; then add 2 fine-chopped onions, cook 5 min- 
utes without browning ; add 1 tablespoonf ul flour, stir and cook 2 
minutes ; add iVg cupful soup stock and Yg cupful white vinegar, 
season with Yg even teaspoonful pepper, 1 even teaspoonful sugar, 
boil 5 minutes ; add the beans, stir and cook a few minutes longer, 
then serve. In place of pork, 2 tablespoonf uls drippings or butter 
may be taken. 

Salted Beans. — String 1 or 2 bushels of young string beans, 
cut them slantingly into thin slices. Have ready a bag of un- 
bleached muslin, made like a pillowcase ; mix the beans with salt, 
allowing 1 pint of salt for each bushel of beans ; pack the beans in 
the bag, tie the bag together, put it in a well-cleaned butter tub, 
lay a board over the bag, and a heavy stone on top the board ; pour 
over sufficient salt water (strong enough to float an egg) to cover 
the bag, and set the tub in a cool place. The beans will keep all 
winter, in perfect condition, providing they are kept under the salt 
water. 

Salted Beans^ Boiled. — Take the desired quantity of salted 
beans out of the bag, replace the board and stone ; wash the beans 
thoroughly several times in cold water, drain and place in a sauce- 
pan, cover with boiling water, cook 30 minutes ; then drain in a 
colander, rinse off with boiling water ; return the beans to the 
saucepan, cover with fresh boiling water, and boil till done, which 
will take about 2 hours. Shortly before serving, drain the beans, 
put them in a hot dish, add a piece of butter, mix butter and beans 
together, then serve. 

Beans a la Mikado. — String and wash 2 quarts string beans, 
place in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add Y2 tablespoonful 
salt, and cook until done ; remove the beans, drain in a colander. 
Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, then remove ; add 2 tablespoou- 
fuls lemon juice, Y2 even teaspoonful white pepper, 1 tablespoonful 
.chopped parsley, and Ys teaspoonful nutmeg ; mix all together ; 



488 VEGETABLES. 

add the beans, toss them for a few minutes over the fire ; taste ; if 
necessary, add more salt. Arrange the beans on a hot dish, pile 
them up high in the center, and garnish with sausages prepared as 
follows : Put 1 cup of lard and 2 cups of flour in a bowl, chop the 
lard in the flour fine with a knife, add 1 teaspoonful salt and Yg cup 
cold water ; mix with the same knife into a stiff paste, turn it on to 
a floured board, roll it out thin, and cut out from the paste 12 pieces 5 
inches long and 4 inches wide, wash and wipe dry 12 fresh sausages. 
Mix 1 even teaspoonful salt with Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, 
sprinkle evenly over the sausages ; lay 1 sausage in the center of 
each piece of paste, fold the paste around, close the ends, lay in a 
shallow tin pan, brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a medium- 
hot oven to a fine golden color ; then lay them around the beans 
and serve with the following sauce : Boil 1 egg 12 minutes, remove 
the shell, lay it in cold water ; when cold wipe dry and grate on a 
grater. Melt 1 ounce butter in a cup, add it gradually to the egg, 
stirring constantly ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y2 even tea- 
spoonful white pepper, 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped white onion or 
shallot, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 1 tablespoonful white vinegar, 
Y2 teaspoonful English mustard, add last 1 gill of whipped cream. 
Put 1 teaspoonful sauce on top of each sausage and serve. 

String Beans with Boiled Mutton. — Prepare and cook the 
beans as in foregoing recipe ; place the cooked and well-drained 
beans in a saucepan ; have a breast of mutton or lamb boiled in 
another saucepan ; take a few ladlef uls from the mutton broth, add 
it to the beans, cook them a few minutes, then serve. Salted string 
beans can be prepared the same way as fresh beans after they have 
been cooked and drained. 

Salted Beans with Dried White Beans.— Soak 1 pint dried 
white beans in cold water over night ; in the morning place them 
in a saucepan, cover with cold water, add 1 pound lean bacon, and 
cook till tender. Place in another saucepan 1 quart of well-washed 
salted beans, cover with boiling water, cook 30 minutes ; drain in a 



VEGETABLES. 489 

colander, rinse off with boiling water, return the beans to the sauce- 
pan, cover with fresh boiling water, cook 40 minutes ; drain them 
in a sieve. When the white beans are done add the string beans, 
cook both together 10 minutes, then serve. 

String Beans, Preseryed. — String and cut the beans slant- 
ingly into fine slices, place them in a saucepan, cover with boiling 
water, cook 20 minutes ; then place some clean glass Jars on a 
double folded wet cloth and fill them with the hot beans, put 
as much salicylic acid into each jar as you can hold on the point 
of a knife ; fill the jars to overflowing with boiling water, close 
tightly, place in a large kettle of warm water with a cloth tied 
around each jar (the jars should be 2 inches under the water), boil 
them 20 minutes ; then remove them from the kettle, set them on a 
table, and if the jars are not full open and fill them with boiling 
water ; close them quickly and set the jars upside down till cold ; 
then examine if they are screwed tightly and set in a cool place. 

PreserYed Beans, Cooked.— Open a jar of preserved string 
beans, drain and put them in a saucepan with boiling water, add Yg 
teaspoonf ul salt, and cook till tender ; then drain and finish the 
same as fresh string beans. 

String Bean Salad. — See my book Desserts and Salads, recipe 
878. 

Red Beans. — Soak 1 quart well-washed red beans in cold water 
overnight ; in the morning place them with fresh cold water in a 
saucepan over the fire ; as soon as they boil add 1 teaspoonf ul salt, 
Y4 teaspoonf ul pepper, 1 whole onion, and a small bouquet, boil 
until done ; then add 1 ounce butter and Y3 gill cream or unsweet- 
ened condensed milk, cook for a few minutes, and serve. Another 
way is to add Y2 cupful red wine and 1 onion into which 3 cloves 
have been stuck. 

Lima Beans. — Place 1 quart shelled Lima beans in a saucepan, 
cover with boiling water, add Y2 teaspoonful salt, and boil till ten- 



490 VEGETABLES. 

der. Mix y2 teaspoonful cornstarch or flour with Yg tablespoonful 
butter ; add it to the beans, cook a few minutes ; add 1 gill of 
cream or unsweetened condensed milk, a little fine-chopped parsley, 
season to taste with salt, and serve. 

Lima Beans, Sauted, — Boil 1 quart fresh shelled Lima beans 
in salted water 30 minutes, then drain off all the water, put the 
beans into cold water until cold ; then drain again, and return to 
the saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful butter, Y2 even teaspoonful salt, 
74 teaspoonful nutmeg, toss over the fire until hot, add Yg giU of 
cream and 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley, then serve. 

Dried Lima Beans. — Soak 1 quart dried Lima beans in cold 
water overnight ; in the morning drain and place them in a sauce- 
pan with Y2 pound of lean, well-washed salt pork, cover with cold 
water, and cook till tender ; remove the pork, mix Ys tablespoonful 
butter with Yg teaspoonful flour, add it to the beans ; season with Y4 
teaspoonful white pepper and salt to taste, cook a few minutes ; add 
1 tablespoonful unsweetened condensed milk and a little fine- 
chopped parsley, then serve. 

Dried White Beans. — Soak 1 quart dried beans in cold water 
overnight; in the morning drain and place them in a saucepan, 
cover with cold water, add 1 onion and 1 teaspoonful salt, cook till 
tender ; then drain in a sieve. Place a saucepan with 4 ounces fine- 
cut larding pork over the fire, fry to a fine golden color ; take out 
the small pieces of pork and keep them warm ; add to the pork fat 
1 gill of fine-chopped onion, cook 5 minutes ; add Ys tablespoonful 
flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add Ys cupful vinegar, Ys tablespoon- 
ful sugar, Ys even teaspoonful pepper, Ys even teaspoonful salt, and 
1 cupful soup stock, cook a few minutes ; then add the cooked 
beans, toss for a few minutes over the fire, put in a hot dish, 
lay the small pieces of pork which were set aside over them, and 
serve. 



VEGETABLES. 491 



PEAS. 

Green Peas— Modern Style.— Shell Vg peck of young peas, 
put them in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful sugar and sufficient 
boiling water to barely cover ; add 2 ounces butter and 1 head of 
lettuce, boil 15 minutes ; then add 1 even teaspoonful salt, remove 
the lettuce, and cook till nearly dry ; add Y4 teaspoonful white pep- 
per. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Y3 cupful cream, add it to the 
peas, let it remain for a few minutes over the fire without boiling, 
then serve. 

Oreen Peas a PAUemande. — Shell Y3 peck fresh green peas, 
place them in a saucepan over the fire, barely cover with boiling 
water, add 1 tablespoonful sugar, and cook till tender ; then add 1 
even teaspoonful salt. Mix 1 tablespoonful butter with 1 teaspoon- 
ful flour, add it to the peas, stir and cook for a few minutes ; taste ; 
if necessary, add more salt; add last 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped 
parsley, and serve. 

Stewed Peas and Carrots a rAllemande.— Clean and cut 

into slices 3 or 4 carrots, lay several slices over one another, and cut 
them into fine narrow strips, like straws, then measure ; there should 
be 1 pint. Place in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling 
water, add 1 tablespoonful sugar, and cook 30 minutes ; then add 1 
pint of fresh green shelled peas, cook 20 minutes ; season with 1 tea- 
spoonful salt; mix 1 tablespoonful butter with Yg tablespoonful 
flour, add it to the vegetables, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 2 table- 
spoonfuls cream or a little unsweetened condensed milk, add last 1 
tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley ; taste, and if necessary add more 
salt, then serve. 

Green Peas a rAmericaine. — Shell Y2 peck fresh green peas, 
place them in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water; 
add 1 teaspoonful sugar, cook till nearly done, then add 1 teaspoon- 
ful salt, and cook a few minutes longer ; add 1 tablespoonful butter, 
stir until melted, then serve. (Care must be taken not to have too 



492 VEGETABLES. 

much liquid on the peas.) Another way is to boil the peas as above, 
and when done, drain and return them to saucepan, add lYg ounce 
butter, toss for a few minutes, then serve. 

Green Peas a I'Anglaise. — Shell V2 peck fresh green peas, 
place them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 1 sprig of 
mint, 1 teaspoonful salt, and cook till tender; remove the mint. 
Mix 1 tablespoonful butter with Y2 teaspoonful flour ; add it to the 
peas, stir and cook 3 minutes ; season to taste with salt, and serve. 
The flour may be omitted. 

Green-pea Puree. — Place IY2 pint shelled green peas in a 
saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and 
boil till tender ; drain and press through a sieve ; melt 1 tablespoon- 
ful butter, add Yg tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add 
Y2 cupful milk, 1 even teaspoonful salt, cook for a few minutes ; 
add the puree of peas and Y2 gi^l of cream, mix all well together, and 
use as directed in previous recipe. 

CARROTS, TURNIPS, Etc. 

Carrot Balls. — Scrape and wash 4 large carrots, cut them into 
round balls with a vegetable cutter, then measure (there should be 1 
pint). Place in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water ; 
add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and cook till done ; then add Y2 teaspoon- 
ful salt, cook for a few minutes ; drain of the water, add Y2 ounce 
butter, toss a few minutes over the fire, and use for garnishing. 

Stewed Carrots a PAllemande. — Scrape and clean 3 to 4 
large carrots, wash, and cut them into slices, lay several slices over 
one another, and cut into narrow strips, like straws ; then measure 
(there should be lYg pint). Place in a saucepan, cover with IY2 
pint boiling water, add 1 tablespoonful sugar, and cook till tender; 
then add 1 teaspoonful salt. Mix 1 teaspoonful cornstarch or flour 
with 1 tablespoonful butter, add it to the carrots, cook slowly 5 
minutes ; add Y2 gill of cream or unsweetened condensed milk, add 



VEGETABLES. 493 

last 1 tablespoonful flue-chopped parsley ; then taste ; if necessary, 
add more salt, and serve. 

Young Carrots and Lima Beans. — Scrape and wash 2 or 3 
bunches of young carrots, cut them into small dices, then measure 
(there should be 1 pint). Place in a saucepan over the fire, add 1 
teaspoonful sugar, boil 10 minutes ; then add 1 pint of shelled 
Lima beans, cook until done ; add 1 teaspoonful salt. Mix 1 table- 
spoonful butter with 1 teaspoonful flour, add it to the vegetables, 
cook a few minutes ; add 1 gill of cream, or a little unsweetened 
condensed milk, and 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley ; if neces- 
sary, add more salt, and serve. 

Creamed White Turnips. — Peel and cut into slices 6 me- 
dium-sized white turnips, cut each into 2, lay 3 slices over one 
another, and cut into strips. Place the turnips in a saucepan, cover 
with boiling water; add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and boil till tender; 
then add Yg teaspoonful salt. Ten minutes before serving set a 
small saucepan with 1 teaspoonful flour and Yg tablespoonful butter 
over the fire, stir, and cook 2 minutes ; add 1 cupful boiling milk, 
cook 3 minutes ; season with Y2 even teaspoonful salt, a little white 
pepper, and 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley, drain the turnips 
in a colander ; pour into a hot dish and the sauce over them. 

White Turnips a la Creme. — Pare and wash 8 medium- 
sized white turnips, cut into thick slices, the slices into strips, then 
measure (there should be 1 quart) ; place them into a saucepan, 
cover with boiling water, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and boil till ten- 
der ; then add 1 teaspoonful salt, cook a few minutes longer ; drain 
in a colander. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 tea- 
spoonful of flour, stir, and cook a few minutes, add lYs cupful hot 
milk, cook 3 minutes ; add the turnips, cook and stir lightly a 
few minutes over the fire ; taste ; if necessary, add more salt ; then 
add Y-i teaspoonful white pepper and 1 tablespoonful chopped pars- 
ley, and serve. 



494 VEGETABLES. 

White-turnip Puree. — Peel 8 medium- sized white turnips, 
wash and cut them into quarters. Place with 1 quart boiling water 
over the fire ; add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and boil till tender ; then 
drain, and press through a sieve into a clean saucepan ; add 1 ounce 
butter and 1 tablespoonful unsweetened condensed milk, 1 tea- 
spoonful salt, and a little white pepper ; stir for a few minutes over 
the fire ; and serve. Eussian-turnip puree is prepared the same. 

Turnip Balls. — Peel several large white turnips, wash, and cut 
them with a vegetable cutter into small balls, place in a saucepan, 
cover with boiling water ; add 1 teaspoonful sugar, boil until nearly 
done ; then add 1 teaspoonful salt, cook 3 minutes ; drain on a 
sieve and return to saucepan, add 1 ounce butter, toss for a few 
minutes over the fire, and use as a garnish. Eussian turnip balls 
may be prepared in the same way. 

Russian Turnips with Frankfurter Sausages. — Place a 
saucepan with 2 medium-sized peeled, washed, and finely cut tur- 
nips over the fire, cover with boiling water, add V2 tablespoonful 
sugar, cook 1 hour; then add 1 quart peeled potatoes cut into 
quarters, add 1 tablespoonful salt ; as soon as it begins to boil lay 
2 pounds Frankfurter sausages on top the turnips, cook slowly 10 
minutes; remove the sausages, keep them warm. Fry 4 ounces 
fine-cut larding pork light brown ; add 2 fine-chopped onions, cook 
5 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir, and cook 2 minutes ; add 
the water from the vegetables, cook a few minutes ; then pour it 
over the turnips and potatoes ; taste ; if necessary, add more salt ; 
add Y2 teaspoonful white pepper, and serve in an oblong dish, lay 
the Frankfiirters in a circle around it ; sprinkle 1 tablespoonful fine- 
chopped parsley over the whole, and serve. 

Russian Turnips with Lamb. — Place a saucepan with 3 
pounds of lamb from the forequarter over the fire, cover with boil- 
ing water, add 1 tablespoonful salt and 1 even teaspoonful pepper, 
boil 30 minutes ; then add 1 quart of peeled and fine-cnt Eussian 
turnips, cook 1 hour ; add 1 quart of potatoes, peeled and cut into 



VEGETABLES. 495 

quarters, and cook until done ; take out the meat. Mix 1 table- 
spoonful butter with 1 tablespoonful flour, add it to the vegetables, 
cook 5 minutes ; taste, and if necessary add more salt and pepper, 
then serve with the meat. The butter may be omitted, and the 
flour mixed with a little cold water and then added. 

Russian Turnips^ Creamed. — Peel 1 large Russian turnip, 
cut it into slices, then lay several slices over one another, and cut 
them into narrow strips ; measure them. For 1 quart of the cut 
turnips, allow 1 quart of boiling water and 1 tablespoonful sugar, 
boil till done ; then add 1 teaspoonful salt, cook a few minutes 
longer ; drain in a colander. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter, add Yg 
tablespoonful flour, cook 2 minutes ; add 1 cup of boiling milk, 
boil 2 minutes ; add the turnips, mix and cook a few minutes 
longer, then add a little fine-chopped parsley, and serve. 

Turnip with Bouillon. — Peel and cut into quarters 8 
medium-sized white turnips, place them in a saucepan over the 
fire, cover with boiling water ; add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and cook 
till nearly done ; then add 1 teaspoonful salt, cook 5 minutes ; drain 
in a colander. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter or good fat in a sauce- 
pan, add Yg tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add lYg 
cupful white broth or soup stock, cook 3 minutes ; add the turnips ; 
season to taste with salt ; add Y4 teaspoonful pepper and 1 table- 
spoonful flne-chopped parsley ; toss for a few minutes over the flre, 
and serve. 

Russian turnips are prepared in the same way, only cut them first 
into slices, then into strips. 

Hussian Turnips, Boiled. — Peel 2 medium-sized Russian 
turnips, cut each one into quarters, wash and place in a saucepan 
over the fire, cover with boiling water ; add 1 tablespoonful sugar, 
and boil till tender, which will take 2 hours ; then add 1 teaspoon- 
ful salt, let cook 10 minutes longer, then drain and serve. 

Russian Turnips with Bacon and Potatoes.— Peel 2 

medium-sized turnips, cut them into slices, the slices into strips. 



496 VEGETABLES. 

Place a saucepan with lYg pound well-washed lean bacon over the 
fire, and coyer with cold water ; as soon as it boils add the fine-cut 
turnips, boil 1 hour ; then add 1 quart potatoes cut into quarters, 
boil until done ; season with salt and pepper to taste. Mix Yg table- 
spoonful flour with 1 ounce butter, add it to the vegetables, cook 5 
minutes ; cut the bacon into thin slices, and serve. 

Squash. — Place 1 quart of fine-cut peeled squash in a saucepan, 
cover with 1 quart of boiling water, add 1 tablespoonful sugar, and 
cook till tender ; then drain ; rub it through a sieve or colander, let 
it stand 5 minutes, and drain again ; return to the saucepan, add 1 
tablespoonful butter, season to taste with salt, stir for a few min- 
utes over the fire, and serve. 

CORN, BEETS, CELERY, Etc. 

Corn Fritters.— Mix the yolks of 2 eggs in a bowl with Vg 
cupful milk, add 1 cupful sifted flour, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 2 
cups of grated or chopped corn, and the whites of 2 eggs beaten to 
a stiff froth (if too thick, add a little more milk). Place a large 
frying pan over the fire with 1 tablespoonful lard or fat, when hot 
put small portions of the mixture with a spoon into the hot fat to 
form small round cakes, and bake light brown on both sides. Serve 
on a hot dish. 

Mock Oysters. — Take 3 or 4 ears of young green corn, cut the 
corn from the cob, then measure it ; there should be 1 pint. Put 
the corn in a bowl, add the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of 
flour, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Yg even teaspoonful white pepper, and 
last the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Place a frying pan with 1 
tablespoonful lard or fat over the fire ; put the mixture with a 
teaspoon into the hot fat (the size of an oyster), and fry light 
brown on both sides. Serve for breakfast or lunch with broiled or 
fried meat. 

Corn Pudding. — Cut the corn from the cob of 4 or 5 ears of 
fresh green corn, then measure it ; there should be 1 heaping pint. 



VEGETABLES. 497 

Put the corn in a bowl, add the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 
1 ounce melted butter, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful 
sugar, the 2 whites beaten to a stiff froth, and Y4 teaspoonful white 
pepper, mix all well together. Pour the preparation into a quart 
buttered pudding dish, and bake in medium-hot oven till firm to 
the touch ; then remove, and serve in same dish it was baked. 
Serve with broiled chops or steaks, or with roasted lamb. If 
canned corn is taken, use 1 can of corn, and prepare in the same way 
as above. 

Green Corn. — For a family of 6 procure about 9 ears of young 
green corn, remove the leaves and silk, place the com in a saucepan, 
cover with boiling water ; add 1 tablespoonful sugar, and boil 15 
minutes; then remove and serve with butter and salt. Corn is 
much sweeter if boiled with sugar in place of salt. 

Creamed Corn. — Cut the corn from 6 ears of fresh young 
sweet corn, place it in a saucepan, cover with milk, add 1 table- 
spoonful sugar, boil slowly 10 minutes ; then add 1 even teaspoon- 
ful salt, Y4 teaspoonful white pepper; mix Yg tablespoonful corn- 
starch or flour with 1 tablespoonful butter, add it to the corn, stir 
and cook for a few minutes ; taste ; if necessary, add more salt, then 
serve. 

Snccotash of Corn and Lima Beans. — Place a saucepan 
with 1 pint of fresh shelled Lima beans over the fire, cover with 
boiling water, add small teaspoonful salt, and cook till tender, which 
will take about 30 minutes. Cut the corn from 4 ears of fresh 
green corn, place the corn in a separate saucepan, cover with milk, 
add 1 tablespoonful sugar, cook 10 minutes ; mix Y2 tablespoonful 
cornstarch or flour with 1 tablespoonful butter, add it to the corn, 
season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ys even teaspoonful white pep- 
per, cook 3 minutes ; drain the Lima beans, add them to the corn, 
cook 3 minutes, and serve. 

Succotash of Corn and String Beans. — String and cut 
1 quart fresh string beans slantingly into pieces, wash and drain ; 



498 VEGETABLES. 

place them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add Yg table- 
spoonful salt, and boil till tender, about lYg hour. Cut the corn 
from the cobs of 6 ears of fresh green corn, place it in a saucepan, 
cover with milk, add 1 tablespoonful sugar, and boil 10 minutes. 
As soon as the beans are done, drain in a colander, return the beans 
to the saucepan, add the corn ; mix 1 tablespoonful cornstarch or 
flour with 1 tablespoonful butter, add it to the succotash (if too 
thick, add a little milk) ; season with Y^ teaspoonful white pepper, 
and, if necessary, add more salt, cook a few minutes and serve. In 
place of fresh corn, canned corn may be taken. 

Corn a la Dore. — Cut the corn from 3 or 4 young ears of 
fresh corn, then measure ; there should be 1 heaping pint. Place 
the corn in a bowl, add Y2 tablespoonful sugar, 2 eggs, and Ys 
teaspoonful salt. Set at the same time a saucepan with Yg cupful 
fine-cut onion over the fire, add 2 ounces butter, and cook 5 min- 
utes; then add Ys can of tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful sugar, Y2 teaspoon- 
ful salt, and Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cook 10 minutes ; rub the toma- 
toes through a sieve, add them to the corn ; mix all together ; put 
the preparation in a buttered dish and bake till firm, which will 
take from 10 to 15 minutes. Serve in the same dish. 

Corn I'ltalicnne. — Place a saucepan over the fire, with 2 fine- 
cut white onions, 1 ounce butter, 1 fine-chopped green pepper with- 
out the seeds, Ys cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, cook 5 minutes ; 
add Ya can of tomatoes, Y2 tablespoonful sugar, Y2 teaspoonful salt, 
cook 15 minutes. Open 1 can of sweet corn and turn it into a dish, 
mix with 2 well-beaten eggs, 1 teaspoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful 
salt ; remove the tomatoes, set them aside to cool ; then mix with 
the corn. Butter a pudding dish, one which can be sent to the 
table, pour in the mixture ; place in a medium-hot oven till firm, 
which will take from 10 to 15 minutes. 

Eggplant, Fried. — Peel and cut the eggplant into thin slices, 
lay them in a bowl ; mix 1 quart water with 1 tablespoonful 
salt, pour it over the eggplant, put a small plate on top the slices 



VEGETABLES. 499 

to keep them under water, let remain in the water for several 
hours ; or, if wanted for breakfast, all night. When ready to cook, 
dry the egg plant on a towel, dust with flour, dip in beaten egg, 
and cover with bread crumbs ; place a frying pan with Y2 table- 
spoonful butter over the fire, when hot put in as many slices as will 
conveniently go in and fry on both sides to a fine golden color. 
Serve on a hot dish. 

Eggplant^ Stuffed. — Select 3 small eggplants, cut each one 
in half, making 3 incisions inside of each, drop into hot fat, and 
fry 2 minutes ; then remove, scoop out the fleshy part, leaving Y3 
inch thickness on the skin ; fill each with veal or chicken force- 
meat, sprinkle over some bread crumbs and a little melted butter ; 
lay in a shallow tin pan and bake till light brown, then serve with 
tomato sauce a I'allemande. 

Beets, Boiled. — Place 1 quart well- washed beets in a sauce- 
pan, cover with boiling water, and cook till done ; then drain and 
peel, cut into quarters, place in a hot dish ; sprinkle over the beets 
1 teaspoonful salt, Yg even teaspoonful pepper, and 2 ounces melted 
butter, then serve. Another way is to prepare and cook the beets 
as above, but adding last Ys cupful cream. 

Beets in Tinegar. — Place 1 quart well-washed beets with 
boiling water in a saucepan over the fire, boil till done ; then drain 
oS the water, remove the skin ; put the beets into a jar, sprinkle 
over 1 teaspoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 
add sufficient vinegar to cover, then close tightly and keep them in 
a cool place. Beets prepared in this way are very handy for salads 
and garnishing. 

Beets sliced in Tinegar. — Boil the beets as in foregoing 
recipe ; remove the skin, cut into slices, place in a dish ; season 
with 1 teaspoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful 
sugar ; mix the seasoning and beets well together ; then mix IY2 
gill of vinegar with Ys gill of cold water, pour it over the beets and 
serve when cold. If onions are liked, cut 2 medium-sized onions 



500 VEGETABLES. 

into thin slices, and lay them between the beets, or chop them fine ; 
1 teaspoonful caraway seeds may be added if liked. 

Beet Tops, Boiled. — Pick over carefully Y2 peck of young 
beet tops, wash them several times in plenty of cold water ; place 
them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 1 tablespoonful 
salt, and boil till tender ; then drain in colander, press out all the 
water, chop coarsely, and place them in a hot dish ; pour over 2 
ounces melted butter, season with ^2 even teaspoonful pepper. 
Serve with vinegar and boiled meat. 

Celery with Oysters. — Place a saucepan with 1 pint of fine- 
cut table celery over the fire, cover with boiling water, and boil till 
tender ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful white 
pepper, mix 1 teaspoonful cornstarch or flour with 1 ounce butter, 
add it to the celery ; add 12 oysters without their liquor, cook until 
the oysters begin to ruffle ; then lay 6 slices of buttered toast on to a 
hot dish, pour over the celery preparation, having 2 oysters on each 
piece of toast, and serve. If handy, add Ys giU of cream. 

Celery a la Creme. — Clean and cut 2 heads of celery into 
1-inch pieces, then measure ; there should be IY3 pint. Place the 
celery in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water, add 
1 teaspoonful salt and Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cook till done ; then 
drain off the water. Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 tea- 
spoonful flour, cook and stir 3 minutes ; add Y2 pint hot milk, Y* 
teaspoonful salt, Ys t»ay leaf, and 6 whole peppers, cook 5 minutes ; 
then strain the sauce into a clean saucepan, add 1 gill of cream and 
the celery, toss it for a few minutes over the fire, and serve on a hot 
dish ; garnish with 6 bread croutons. 

Celery-root Salad. — See my book Desserts and Salads, recipe 
871. 

CUCUMBERS, Etc. 

Cucumber Fritee. — Peel 4 medium-sized cucumbers, cut them 
lengthwise in halves, scoop out the inside, and cut each half length- 
wise in 2 pieces ; place in a saucepan, cover with boiling water ; add 



VEGETABLES. 501 

7g tablespoonf ul salt and 1 tablespoonf ul vinegar, boil 10 minutes ; 
then remove and lay them in cold water ; when perfectly cold, take 
the cucumbers from the water, dry on a towel, and dust with flour ; 
dip each piece into beaten egg and roll in bread crumbs. Melt 1 
tablespoonful leaf lard or fat in a frying pan over a moderate fire, 
when hot lay in as many cucumber pieces as will conveniently go 
in ; fry light brown on both sides and well done ; remove, lay on a 
hot dish, and fry the remainder the same way. Serve with broiled, 
fried, or roasted meat or fish. 

Cucumber Saute. — Peel 6 fresh medium-sized cucumbers, 
cut them lengthwise in quarters, remove the seedy part ; place the 
cucumbers in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and boil 10 
minutes, then drain off the water and plunge them into cold water. 
Melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, drain and dry the cucumbers 
on a towel, add them to the butter, season with 1 even teaspoonful 
salt, Ya even teaspoonful pepper, Yg teaspoonful sugar, 2 gills of 
white broth, and cook till tender. Melt Ys ounce butter in a small 
saucepan, add 1 teaspoonful flour, cook and stir 2 minutes ; add Ys 
cup of hot milk, a sprinkle of salt, and cook a few minutes ; add the 
sauce to the cucumbers, cook 3 minutes, and serve. 

Cucumber a la Bechamel. — Peel and cut 6 small cucumbers 
into quarters, remove the seedy part, and place them with boiling 
water in a saucepan over the fire, add Y2 tablespoonful salt, and boil 
till tender, then drain and plunge them into cold water, remove and 
drain again. In the meantime melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a 
saucepan, add Y2 tablespoonful flour, Ys bay leaf, 12 whole peppers, 
stir and cook 2 minutes, add 1 cupful hot milk, Y2 Q^&^ teaspoonful 
salt, Y4 even teaspoonful pepper and the same of nutmeg, 1 gill of 
mushroom liquor, cook 5 minutes, strain the sauce in a clean sauce- 
pan, add the cucumbers, let them simmer a few minutes over the 
fire ; then serve. 

Cucumber, Stuffed. — Peel 6 small cucumbers, cut off the 
ends, scoop out the inside with a vegetable cutter, place the cucum- 



502 VEGETABLES. 

bers in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 1 tablespoonful 
vinegar and 1 teaspoonful salt, cook 5 minutes, then drain, and put 
them in cold water. Prepare a chicken forcemeat from Yg a breast 
of chicken ; dry the cucumbers and fill the inside with the force- 
meat, lay 3 thin slices of pork in a round pan, put the cucumbers 
on top the pork, sprinkle over 1 teaspoonful salt, Y^ teaspoonful 
pepper, add Y2 pint of white broth, cover with buttered paper, and 
bake in a medium-hot oven from 20 to 25 minutes. In the mean- 
time fry in Yg ounce butter 1 fine-chopped onion, add 1 bay leaf 
and 12 whole peppers, cook 5 minutes ; add Y2 tablespoonful flour, stir 
and cook 3 minutes; add Y2 pint broth or soup stock, Y2 even tea- 
spoonful salt, Y2 gill of sherry or Madeira wine, Y2 teaspoonful beef 
extract, cook 5 minutes, then strain. Pour the sauce on a hot dish 
and dress the cucumbers over it, and serve with roasted, braised, 
fried, or broiled lamb, mutton, or beef. 

Cucumber a I'Allemande. — Peel and cut 4 fresh cucumbers 
into halves, remove the insides, and cut each half into pieces 1 inch 
in size, place them with boiling water in a saucepan, and cook 30 
minutes ; drain and lay them in cold water. Melt 2 ounces butter 
in the saucepan, drain the cucumbers, add them to the butter, sea- 
son with 1 even teaspoonful salt and Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, 
toss them a few minutes over the fire, add 1 cupful chicken or veal 
broth, cook until the cucumbers are done, which will take about 20 
minutes, then mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Y2 cupful cream, add 
them to the cucumbers, stir them gently for 3 minutes over the fire, 
without letting them boil, add last 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped 
parsley. Serve on a hot dish with roasted lamb. 

Endives with Cream. — Procure about 4 heads of endives 
(chicory), remove the outer leaves, wash several times in cold 
water ; place the endives in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, 
add Y2 tablespoonful salt, and boil about 10 minutes ; drain on a 
sieve, rinse off with boiling water, return to saucepan, cover with 
boiling water, boil 5 minutes, then drain ; lay the endives for a 



VEGETABLES. 503 

few minutes in cold water, drain and press out dry, chop fine, and 
place it with 2 ounces melted butter in a saucepan over the fire ; 
stir often and cook 10 minutes ; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Yg 
even teaspoonful pepper, y^ teaspoonful nutmeg, and the same of 
sugar ; sprinkle over Yg tablespoonf ul flour, mix well together, add 
% cupful cream or milk, stir and cook 2 minutes, then serve. 

Sorrel with Cream. — Pick over and wash several times in 
cold water Y2 peck of sorrels, chop very fine with 1 head of lettuce ; 
place the sorrels in a saucepan over the fire, cover and cook about 
10 minutes ; add 2 ounces butter, season with 1 teaspoonful salt, Y2 
even teaspoonful pepper, cook until done ; then mix Y* cupful 
cream with the yolks of 2 eggs, add it to the sorrels, stir for a few 
minutes, and serve with boiled or roasted meat. 

Lettuce, Stuffed. — Eemove the outer leaves from 6 round 
heads of lettuce, wash in cold water, place in a saucepan, cover with 
boiling water, and cook 5 minutes ; drain and cool in cold water, 
remove and drain again ; then lay 1- tablespoonful forcemeat either 
of veal or sausage meat on top of each head of lettuce, roll them 
up, and tie with a string into a round shape ; lay 3 thin slices of 
larding pork in a round pan with the lettuce on top, add Yg pint of 
white broth ; sprinkle over Ys teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful white 
pepper, cover with buttered paper, place in the oven, and bake till 
done, about 20 minutes. In the meantime melt 1 tablespoonful 
butter, add 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped onion, Y2 t)ay leaf, 6 whole 
peppers, cook 5 minutes ; add Yg tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 
minutes ; lay the lettuce on a hot dish, add the gravy from the lettuce 
to the sauce and sufficient broth to make a creamy sauce, then Ys 
teaspoonful beef extract, cook 5 minutes. Season with salt and 
pepper to taste, add Y2 tablespoonful lemon juice or a little Madeira 
wine, cook 2 minutes, then strain ; remove the strings from the 
lettuce, pour the sauce over, and serve with braised beef or mut- 
ton. The lettuce may be prepared in the same way, omitting the 
forcemeat. 



504 VEGETABLES. 

OYSTER PLANT, PARSNIP, ARTICHOKE, Etc. 

Oyster Plant, Boiled. — Scrape and wash 1 bunch of oyster 
plant, drop them as soon as one is cleaned into 1 quart of cold water to 
which y2 gill of vinegar has been added ; when they are all cleaned 
tie into 3 bundles, cut all of an even size. Place a saucepan with 3 
pints of boiling water over the fire, mix 1 tablespoonf ul flour with 
Ys cupful cold water, stir it into the boiling water ; add the juice 
of Ya lemon, Ys tablespoonful salt, and Ys ounce of butter, put in the 
oyster plant, cook till tender. When done remove from the sauce- 
pan, cut each plant in half, lay in a hot dish, and cover with the fol- 
lowing sauce : Melt 1 tablespoonful butter, add 1 tablespoonful flour, 
6 whole peppers, and Y2 bay leaf, stir and cook 3 minutes ; add IY2 
cupful milk (if handy, 1 gill of mushroom liquor), 1 even teaspoon- 
ful salt, Ys teaspoonful pepper, cook 5 minutes ; then strain the 
sauce over the oyster plant and serve. 

Oyster Plant, Fried. — Clean, wash, and boil 1 bunch of oyster 
plant the same as in foregoing recipe. When cooked remove and 
wipe dry, dust with flour, dip into beaten egg, roll in fine sifted 
bread crumbs, and fry light brown in hot fat to a fine golden 
color. 

Oyster Plant Frite. — Prepare and boil 1 bunch of oyster 
plant as in foregoing recipe. Eemove the cooked oyster plant and 
dry on a towel. Then prepare a batter ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs 
with Y2 cupful beer, 1 teaspoonful butter, 4 tablespoonfuls flour, Y* 
teaspoonful salt, and lastly the whites beaten to a stiff froth ; mix 
all well together. Have a deep pan or kettle with hot fat over the 
fire, dip the oyster plants in the batter, drop into the hot fat, not 
too many at one time, and fry light brown ; then remove with a 
skimmer and lay for a few minutes on paper. Dress them on a hot 
dish and serve with roasted, broiled, or fried meat. 

Parsnips, Boiled and Fried. — Clean and wash 3 medium-sized 
parsnips, place them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and 



VEGETABLES. 505 

boil till done ; then remove from the water, cut them lengthwise 
into thick slices. Place a frying pan with 1 tablespoonf ul drippings 
over the fire ; as soon as hot put iu the parsnips and fry light brown 
on both sides, then serve. Another way is to lay the parsnips after 
they have been boiled in the pan with roast meat and roast to a fine 
golden color. 

Artichokes au Naturel. — Procure 6 fresh artichokes, remove 
the lower outer leaves, cut the tips from the upper ones, trim the 
bottoms neatly, wash in cold water, rub over each a little lemon 
juice, and lay in cold water. Forty minutes befoi'e serving, put 
them in a saucepan of boiling water, add Yg tablespoonful salt and 
the juice of 1 lemon, cover and cook till tender, or until the leaves 
detach easily. Then drain the artichokes, remove the chokes in 
center, dress them upside down on a napkin, and serve with melted 
butter, butter, Hollandaise, or vinaigrette sauce. 

Artichokes a la Barigoule. — Remove all the lower hard 
leaves from 6 fresh artichokes, cut the points from the remaining 
leaves, remove the chokes with a vegetable borer ; rub over with 
lemon juice, and lay in cold water. Mix 1 tablespoonful fine- 
minced larding pork with 1 gill of fine-chopped mushrooms, 1 tea- 
spoonful fine-chopped shallots, the same of fine-chopped parsley, 1 
tablespoonful bread crumbs, a little nutmeg, Yg even teaspoonf ul salt, 
Y4 even teaspoonful pepper ; mix all together. Drain the artichokes 
and fill them with the preparation ; tie up with a string. Cover the 
bottom of a round pan, thickly buttered, with 3 thin slices of larding 
pork, 2 slices of carrot, and 1 sliced onion ; place the artichokes on 
top of this ; add 1 bay leaf, a small bouquet, 1 gill of white broth, and 
Y2 gill Madeira wine. Lay a small, thin slice of pork over each arti- 
choke, cover with buttered paper, set the pan in a hot oven and bake 
till done, basting frequently, which will take from 40 to 50 minutes. 
When ready to serve remove the artichokes, take off the strings, and 
dress them on a hot dish ; remove all the fat from gravy, add Ys 
tablespoonful beef extract and a little broth ; let boil 2 minutes ; 



506 VEGETABLES. 

then strain, and either pour it over the artichokes or serve in a sepa- 
rate dish. 

Artichokes Saute. — Procure Vg dozen fresh artichokes, re- 
move the lower leaves, cut the points from the remaining leaves, 
pare the bottom neatly. Cut the artichokes into quarters, remove 
the choke from the center, and lay the quarters in boiling water, 
with 1 tablespoonf ul white vinegar and 1 tablespoonf ul salt ; boil a 
few minutes, drain and cool in cold water. Forty minutes before 
serving drain the artichokes, melt 3 ounces butter in a saucepan, put 
in tlie artichokes, season with 1 teaspoonful salt and Y4 teaspoonful 
pepper ; cover and cook 10 minutes ; then add 1 gill of white broth 
and IY3 gill of Ehine wine, cover and cook till done. Dress the 
artichokes on a hot dish, remove the fat from gravy, add 1 table- 
spoonful lemon juice to the gravy, Y2 teaspoonful beef extract; 
cook a few minutes, then strain ; add a small piece of fresh butter, 
and pour it over the artichokes. 

Artichoke Bottoms, Stuffed. — Eemove the leaves from 6 
fresh artichokes, place the artichokes in a saucepan of boiling 
water, add 1 tablespoonful vinegar and 72 tablespoonful salt, cook 
until all the leaves can be drawn out easily ; then remove and cool 
in cold water. Drain and remove the chokes, and fill them with the 
following forcemeat: Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add Yg 
tablespoonful fine-chopped white onion or shallot, cook 3 minutes ; 
add Ys gill fine-chopped mushrooms, Ys gi^l fine-chopped veal or 
chicken meat, Y2 teaspoonful chopped parsley, and season with salt 
and pepper, stir and cook 5 minutes ; then remove, add Y2 table- 
spoonful bread crumbs ; fill the artichokes, sprinkle over some 
bread crumbs, set in a buttered pan, pour over a little melted 
butter, add Y2 gill white broth ; put the pan in a medium-hot 
oven, and bake 15 minutes, basting frequently. Serve the arti- 
chokes on a hot dish. Melt Y2 tablespoonful butter, add Y2 tea- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook a few minutes ; add the gravy from the 
artichokes and a little beef extract and bouillon : cook a few min- 



VEGETABLES. 507 

utes ; then strain, and serve with, the artichokes. Or pour the gravy 
on the dish and dress the artichokes over it. 



TRUFFLES. 

How and where they groiu. 

Truffles are an underground fungi used as food, those of com- 
merce belonging to the genus tuier, while others which bear the 
name are of related but different genera, their name being derived 
from the Latin terra tuber. They are somewhat oblong or globose, 
varying from two ounces to several pounds in weight, according to spe- 
cies and locality ; there are white kinds, but the surface is generally 
black or brownish and roughened with warty protuberances. When 
cut open, they present a variously marbled appearance. Truffles are 
generally found in calcareous soils and always in woods of oak or 
beech ; they are found in many parts of England and in some parts 
of Germany, but more abundantly on the Continent and in Africa. 
The more highly prized French truffles are the melanosporum and 
the Piedmontese, which bring the highest price. The existence of 
truffles in the United States is very doubtful. Truffles have an 
odor and flavor peculiarly their own, and though sometimes cooked 
as a separate dish, they are most generally used for communicating 
their flavor to meats and sauces. The truffles used in this country 
are imported in sealed tin cans. The fresh truffles are carefully 
selected (those with a musty odor being rejected), washed in cold 
water with a brush until perfectly clean, then pared very thin or 
boiled without peeling. 

How to Prepare. — Place the cleaned truffles in a saucepan 
with enough rich stock to nearly cover them, add a glass of claret 
or Madeira wine, some cloves, a few whole peppers, a small piece of 
ham, 1 carrot, 1 or 2 onions, a bouquet, and the necessary salt ; boil 
from Yj hour to 40 minutes. They may also be boiled in claret with 
a little glaze. 
33 



508 VEGETABLES. 

Truffles au Naturel. — Wrap the well-cleaned truffles in but- 
tered paper and bake in a hot oven about 50 minutes. In serving, 
remove the paper and arrange them on a hot napkin. 

Truffles a I'ltalienne. — Place in a small saucepan 1 table- 
spoonful butter, 1 fine-minced shallot, 1 teaspoonful flour, fry for- 
a minute ; then add Yg gill of brown stock, a little Cayenne pep- 
per, and Y2 teaspoonful salt ; cut into small slices 8 truffles, add 
them to the contents in the saucepan, stir over the fire about 10 
minutes ; add a teaspoonful fine-minced parsley, leave it 1 minute 
longer over the fire, add the juice of Yg lemon, and serve. Or place 
the truffle slices over the fire with 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 minced 
shallot, some parsley, salt and pepper to taste ; stir for 10 minutes 
over the fire. Pour off some of the butter, add a piece of fresh 
butter, a few tablespoonfuls Spanish sauce, the juice of Y2 lemon, 
and a little Cayenne pepper ; let the whole come to a boil, then serve. 

MUSHROOMS. 

Hoiu and ivhere they grow. 

Mushrooms grow wild in Europe and America, and a majority 
of the edible species are common to both continents. The edible 
fungus called mushroom is in all cases to be distinguished by its 
white, firm, solid stem, its fleshy cap, and its pink gills ; when the 
cap begins to expand, the gills are pale, but they soon become pink, 
and on this account it is in some parts of this country known as the 
pink-gill. When older the gills become chocolate-colored, then 
tawny black, in which state they are regarded as unflt for food. It 
has a pleasant and characteristic odor, by which those familiar with 
it can distinguish the plant. This species is found in pastures, in 
some years in great abundance. Its proper season is September and 
October, when our markets are abundantly supplied from the wild 
growth ; at other times cultivated mushrooms are to be had, but at 
very high prices. Mushrooms resemble flesh in flavor more nearly 
than do any other vegetable. They are used to form a dish by 



VEGETABLES. 509 

themselves, either stewed, broiled, or baked, and are largely em- 
ployed to flavor other dishes, entering into a great variety of stews, 
fricassees, and sauces ; many are consumed in the preparation of 
catsup, which is the juice of the mushroom extracted by sprinkling 
them with salt and flavoring with spices. The general testimony is 
that mushrooms are highly nutritious, but difficult of digestion, and 
unsuited to persons with delicate stomachs. 

Mushrooms, Baked. — Cut off a portion of the stalks of 12 
medium-sized mushrooms, peel the tops, and wipe the mushrooms 
carefully with a piece of flannel and a little fine salt ; wipe dry. Put 
them into a baking dish with a small piece of butter placed on each 
mushroom, sprinkle over a little white pepper, and bake 20 minutes. 
Serve on a hot dish, piled up high in the center, with the sauce 
poured around. 

Mushrooms, pickled. — Choose for pickling only the small 
button mushrooms, rub off the skin with a piece of cloth and salt, 
cut the stalks off, put them in a saucepan over the fire ; add to each 
quart of mushrooms Y^ teaspoonful ground mace, Yg even teaspoon- 
ful ground white pepper, 1 even teaspoonful salt; toss them well 
over a clear fire until the liquor flows, and keep them there until they 
are all dried up again. Then add enough vinegar to cover them, 1 
onion, and 1 teaspoonful sugar, boil a few minutes ; put the mush- 
rooms in small glass jars. When cold screw them up tightly or 
paste paper over them ; keep in dry places for further use. These 
are nice for sauces or ragouts. 

Mushrooms preserved in Butter. — Peel 1 quart of nice 
white small button mushrooms, put them into cold water with a 
little lemon juice ; take out and dry with a clean napkin. Place in 
a saucepan over the fire with Ys pound of butter and 1 gill of water, 
simmer 15 minutes ; put them with their juice into glass jars 
screwed down tightly ; set in a vessel of cold water over the fire to 
boil 1 hour, (If there should not be juice enough to cover the 



510 VEGETABLES. 

mushrooms in the jars, more melted butter must be added.) When 
opened in winter the butter can be used for sauce. 

Mushrooms, Broiled. — Select 1 dozen medium-sized fresh 
mushrooms, cut oil a portion from the stalk, peel the top, and rub 
off with a little fine salt ; drop as soon as cleaned into cold salted 
water with the juice of 1 lemon ; 15 minutes before serving lift the 
mushrooms out of the water, wipe dry ; season with 1 even teaspoon- 
f ul salt and Yg even teaspoonful pepper ; brush each one over with 
melted butter, lay on a hot broiler, and broil over a moderate clear 
fire 5 minutes on each side, turning them twice while cooking. Lay 
6 small slices of buttered toast on a hot dish ; dress 2 mushrooms 
over each piece of toast, spread 1 ounce maitre d'hotel butter over 
the mushrooms, and serve. 

Mushroom Bouchees. — Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan ; 
add Yg tablespoonf ul flour, stir, and cook 3 minutes ; add Yg cupful 
mushroom liquor, Y2 cupful white broth, Y2 teaspoonful beef extract, 
1 even teaspoonful salt, Y4 even teaspoonful white pepper, cook 2 
minutes ; then add 12 canued mushrooms, cook slowly 15 minutes ; 
mix the yolk of 1 egg with Y2 gi^l of cream, add it to the mush- 
rooms ; draw the saucepan to side of stove, not allowing it to boil, 
with the yolk ; add last Ys tablespoonful lemon juice. Have ready 
6 patty cases (bouch6es), heat them in the oven, fill them with the 
mushrooms, and serve at once. (For Bouchees see Jelly Tarts, in 
my book Desserts and Salads, recipe 711.) 

Mushrooms preserved in Water. — The fresh small button 
mushrooms are rubbed off with a piece of flannel and salt, washed 
in cold water, the ends of the stalks cut off, and the mushrooms 
dropped into cold water, to which some lemon juice has been 
added ; when all are cleaned take them out, place over the fire in a 
preserve kettle with enough water to cover, boil 5 minutes. Fill in 
small glass jars, screw tightly, set the jars in a vessel of cold water 
over the fire, and boil Y4 hour ; then remove, and keep them in a 
cool place. 



VEGETABLES. 511 

Mushroom Saute. — Cut off the ends of the stalk from IY2 
pint fresh button mushrooms, put them into a dish of water with a 
little lemon juice. Then take them out of the water, and place with 
4 ounces butter in a saucepan over the fire ; add 1 even tablespoonful 
salt, 1 even teaspoonful white pepper, and the juice of 1 lemon ; 
cover, and stew slowly 20 minutes ; add 1 tablespoonful flour, a 
little nutmeg, and gradually sufficient cream or milk to make the 
sauce of a proper consistence, and serve. 

Mushrooms in Spanish Sauce.— Cut nearly all the stalks 
away from 1 pint of small mushroom buttons, peel the tops, or rub 
them off with salt ; place in saucepan with Y2 pint Spanish sauce 
over the fire ; simmer slowly 20 minutes ; season with a little 
Cayenne pepper, nutmeg, and salt, and serve very hot. 

Mushrooms, Stewed. — Drain off the liquor from 1 can of 
mushrooms, place the mushrooms with 2 ounces butter over the 
fire ; season with Yg teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, and the 
juice of 1 lemon ; cover, and stew slowly Ys tour ; then add ^j^ table- 
spoonful flour, shake the saucepan for a few minutes, add the mush- 
room liquor, Ys cupful cream, boil 5 minutes ; add Ys teaspoonful 
grated nutmeg, and serve over 6 slices of toast. 

Mushroom Catsup. — Clean 1 peck of full-grown mushrooms, 
put them in a stone jar with Ys pound salt sprinkled between them. 
Let stand for 3 hours, then break up with the hand, and put in a 
cool place for 3 days, stirring occasionally, washing well, to extract 
as much juice as possible. Then measure the quantity of liquor 
without straining and add to each quart Ys ounce of Cayenne pep- 
per, Yz ounce of allspice, Y2 ounce ginger, Y2 teaspoonful mace. 
Put all in a stone jar, cover closely, set it in a kettle of boiling 
water, place over the fire, and boil 3 hours. Pour the liquor into a 
clean saucepan, boil slowly 20 minutes more, then into a jar, and 
let stand till next day. Strain through a fine cloth, add to each 
pint of catsup 1 tablespoonful brandy, fill into small bottles, cork 



512 VEGETABLES. 

and seal tightly, and set in a cool place for further use. This catsup 
is used for flavoring sauces. 

ONIONS. 

Onion Farci. — Peel 6 large white Spanish onions, scoop out 
the center with a vegetable cutter, place them in a saucepan, cover 
with boiling water, cook 5 minutes ; remove and lay them for a 
few minutes in cold' water. Prepare a veal or chicken forcemeat, 
drain the onions, and fill them with the forcemeat. Cover the bot- 
tom of a deep round pan with thin slices of larding pork, lay the 
onions side by side on top the pork, add 1 pint of chicken or veal 
broth, cover them with buttered paper, place the pan in the oven, 
and bake, basting frequently, till done. Serve the onions on a hot 
dish, remove the fat from the gravy, add Yg teaspoonful beef extract 
and a small piece of butter, cook a few minutes ; then strain, pour 
the gravy over the onions, and serve. 

Creamed Onions. — Peel 1 quart medium-sized white onions, 
place them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 1 teaspoon- 
ful sugar, boil till nearly done ; add 1 teaspoonful salt, boil a few 
minutes longer, then drain them in a colander. In the meantime 
melt 1 ounce butter, add Yg tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 
minutes ; add Yg pi^t of hot milk, cook 2 minutes ; season with Y4 
teaspoonful white pepper and a sprinkle of salt, put the onions in a 
hot dish, and pour the sauce over it. 

Glazed Onions. — Peel 1 pint of small white onions, place them 
in a round pan, pour over 1 ounce melted butter, and dust with 1 
tablespoonful powdered sugar ; place the pan in a medium-hot oven 
and bake to a fine golden color, remove, and use them for gar- 
nishing. 

Onions, Boiled. — Peel 1 pint of small white onions, place them 
in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water, add Ys tea- 
spoonful salt, boil 10 minutes ; then drain them on a sieve, return 



VEGETABLES. 513 

the onions to the saucepan, add 1 ounce butter, toss them 3 min- 
utes over the fire, then use for garnishing. 

Onion Saute. — Peel 1 quart white onions the size of a walnut 
(have them of an equal size), place in a saucepan, cover with boiling 
water, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, boil until nearly done ; then add 1 
teaspoonf ul salt, draw the saucepan to side of stove, let stand 5 min- 
utes ; drain them in a colander, return the onions to the saucepan, 
add 1 ounce butter, toss them a few minutes over the fire, serve in a 
hot dish, pour 2 tablespoonfuls cream over them. 

Onions^ Fried. — Cut 4 medium-sized Spanish or Bermuda 
onions into slices, season them with 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ys even 
teaspoonful pepper equally distributed ; mix 1 well-beaten egg with 
3 tablespoonfuls milk, dip the onions in the egg and milk, roll them 
in flour, drop them into hot lard, and fry light brown ; then remove, 
lay them for a few minutes on paper ; when all are fried in this 
way, serve them on a hot dish with broiled or fried meat. 

Baked Onions. — Peel 6 medium-sized large Spanish onions, 
place them in a saucepan over the fire, cover with boiling water, and 
cook 10 minutes ; remove and cool them in cold water. Drain and 
dry the onions, season with 1 even tablespoonf ul salt and Yg even tea- 
spoonful pepper, place in a deep round pan not much larger than 
will hold the onions ; pour Y2 pint of boiling milk in the pan, add 
1 ounce butter, cover the onions with buttered paper, and bake in a 
medium-hot oven till done, basting frequently. Dress the onions 
on a hot dish and serve with roasted meat, turkey, ducks, or chickens. 

PUEEES, Etc. 
Puree of Dried Peas. — Soak 1 quart of well- washed dried 
peas in cold water, drain and place in a saucepan over the fire, cover 
with cold water, add 1 teaspoonful salt, and boil till tender ; drain 
off all the water, rub the peas through a sieve, mix them with 1 
ounce butter, and if necessary add more salt. Pea puree is used 
for pea soup ; it is also served with sauei'kraut. 



514 VEGETABLES. 

Puree of Lentils, Stewed. — Place 1 quart well- washed lentils 
in a saucepan over the fire, cover with cold water, add 1 teaspoon- 
f ul salt, and cook till tender ; then drain in a sieve. Fry 4 ounces 
fine-cut larding pork light brown, add 1 gill fine-chopped onion, 
cook 5 minutes ; add Yg tablespoonf ul flour, stir and cook 3 min- 
utes ; add Yg cupful vinegar and 1 cupful soup stock, cook 5 min- 
utes ; season with Y4 teaspoonful pepper, 1 teaspoonful sugar, and 
Ys teaspoonful salt, add the lentils, toss them for a few minutes, 
and serve. 

Puree of Chestnuts. — Place 1 pound large chestnuts in a 
saucepan, cover with cold water, boil about 15 minutes ; drain, peel, 
and remove the skin ; return in a clean saucepan to the fire, cover 
with 1 quart chicken or veal broth, add Y2 teaspoonful white pepper, 
1 teaspoonful salt, 2 ounces butter, and 1 teaspoonful sugar ; cook 
until the chestnuts are soft, about 40 minutes ; then rub them 
through a sieve, and use. Another way is to add 1 quart of milk 
to the chestnuts in place of broth. 

Chestnut a I'Espagnole. — Boil 1 pound of chestnuts in water 
as in foregoing recipe ; skin, peel, and return them in saucepan to 
the fire, cover with 1 quart of soup stock ; add Y2 tablespoonful 
sugar, and cook till tender. Melt 1 tablespoonful butter, add Y2 table- 
spoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add Y2 bay leaf, 12 whole 
peppers, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Y2 piiit stock, Y2 teaspoonful beef 
extract, cook 5 minutes (if too thick add a little more stock) ; 
strain the sauce into a clean saucepan, drain the chestnuts, put 
them in the sauce, and toss for 2 minutes over the fire ; then 
ersve. 

Chestnut Saute in Butter. — Boil 1 pound of chestnuts 15 
minutes in water ; drain, peel, skin, and return them to the fire, 
cover with water ; add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and boil till tender, 
then drain. Melt Y2 ounce butter in a saucepan, add the chest- 
nuts, cook 10 minutes ; toss them well, and serve as a garnish. 



VEGETABLES. 515 

Chestnut Puree a la Creme.— Boil 1 pound of large chest- 
nuts in water 15 minutes ; peel and skin them, wash in cold water ; 
place with 1 quart milk over the fire, add Yg tablespoonful sugar, 
and boil till tender ; then rub them through a sieve, and use for 
stuffing pigeons, partridges, and birds. This puree is also largely- 
used for frozen puddings. 



MACARONI AND NUDLES. 

Macaroni au Gratin. — Break 7g pound Italian macaroni into 
pieces, place them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add Ya 
tablespoonful salt, and boil 30 to 35 minutes ; then drain ; grate 4 
ounces Parmesan or Swiss cheese, return the macaroni to the sauce- 
pan, add half the cheese, 2 ounces butter, and Yg even teaspoonful 
white pepper ; toss the saucepan for a few minutes over the fire ; 
mix well together, then put the macaroni into a dish, sprinkle the 
remaining cheese, and pour Yg ounce melted butter over the top ; 
place the dish in a hot oven, and bake till light brown, about 10 
minutes ; then serve in the same dish. 

Croquettes of Macaroni. — Boil in a saucepan 4 ounces Italian 
macaroni in salted water 30 minutes, then drain on a sieve ; return 
the macaroni to saucepan, add Ya tablespoonful butter, 4 table- 
spoonfuls grated cheese, and 3 ounces fine-cut ham or beef tongue ; 
mix all together. Then spread the preparation in a shallow buttered 
pan, cover with buttered paper, put a light weight on top, and set 
aside to cool. Thirty minutes before serving, form the mixture 
into cork-shaped croquettes, dip into beaten egg, and roll in fresh 
grated bread crumbs ; fry in hot fat to a delicate brown. Lay for a 
few minutes on paper, then dress on a hot dish; garnish with fried 
parsley, and serve with tomato sauce. Croquettes of spaghetti and 
nudles are prepared in the same way. 

Petites Croustades of Spaghetti. — Break Y2 pound spaghetti 
into pieces, place it in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add Y2 
tablespoonful salt, and cook 30 minutes ; then drain on a sieve. 
Melt Ys ounce butter in a saucepan, add % tablespoonful flour, stir 

516 



MACARONI AND NUDLES. 517 

and cook 2 minutes ; add V2 cupful milk and a little salt, cook 3 
minutes ; then add the spaghetti, 1 ounce butter, and IY2 ounce 
grated cheese ; mix all well together. Put the preparation 2 inches 
thick in a buttered pan, cover with buttered paper, and lay a light 
weigh tover it. When cold, turn the spaghetti out, cut out round 
pieces with a lYg-inch-wide cutter, roll in freshly grated bread 
crumbs, dip into beaten egg, and cover with bread crumbs ; make 
an incision on top of each croustade with a smaller cutter, to form 
a cover ; then fry in deep hot fat to a fine golden color. When 
done remove with a skimmer to blotting paper, lift off the cover, 
take out the inside with a spoon, and fill with a crab, lobster, or 
oyster salpicon ; put on the cover, and serve in a napkin on a hot 
dish. 

Timlbales of Macaroni. — Place 4 ounces macaroni unbroken 
in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add 1 teaspoonful salt, and 
boil till tender ; then drain in a sieve. Butter 6 small timbale forms 
and line them with macaroni thus : Take a long piece of macaroni, 
lay one end in the center of the form, curl the macaroni round it to 
form a coil like a rope ; when the bottom is covered line the sides 
likewise. After lining all the forms in this way, fill them % full of 
chicken forcemeat, press it on sides and bottom so as to leave a 
hollow space in the center. Fill 1 spoonful of salpicon into each 
one, and cover with the same forcemeat ; 30 minutes before serving, 
set the timbales covered with buttered paper in a pan filled with 
boiling water up to half their height. Place the pan in a medium- 
hot oven, and bake 25 minutes ; then remove. Have ready Yg pio^^ 
of tomato sauce a I'allemande, and mix it with 3 tablespoonfuls 
whipped cream ; pour the sauce on a hot dish ; unmold the timbales, 
and dress them over the sauce, then serve. 

Tomato and Spaghetti a I'ltalienne. — Bake Vg pound 
Italian spaghetti into pieces, put it with two quarts boiling water 
over the fire, add Yg tablespoonful salt, and boil 25 to 30 minutes. 
Melt 1 ounce butter in a saucepan, add 1 fine-chopped onion, Y2 
fine-chopped green pepper without the seeds, cook 6 minutes ; add 



518 MACARONI AND NUDLES. 

Ya can of tomatoes, Yg cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, 1 teaspoonful 
salt, 1 teaspoonful sugar, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cook 20 minutes. 
When the spaghetti is done, drain it in a colander, grate 4 ounces 
Parmesan cheese (or 4 ounces American cheese), put the spaghetti 
in alternate layers in a dish with the tomatoes and grated cheese. 
Place the dish a few minutes in the oven, and serve. (The cheese 
may be omitted if objected to.) Macaroni can be prepared in the 
same way. 

Spaghetti or Macaroni, cooked Plain.— Place a saucepan 
with 2 quarts water over the fire, add Yg tablespoonful salt ; as soon 
as it boils, break Ys pound of spaghetti or macaroni into 3-inch 
lengths, put into the boiling water, and cook from 25 to 35 minutes, 
till tender. When done, drain in a sieve or colander, put into a hot 
dish, add 2 ounces butter in small pieces, mix it with 2 forks until 
the butter is melted ; add Ys cupful cream or milk or 1 tablespoon- 
ful unsweetened condensed milk ; then serve with roasted meat. 

Spaghetti a I'Allemande. — Boil Y2 pound of Italian spaghetti 
in salted water as in the foregoing recipe. Place at the same time 
a saucepan with 2 ounces butter over the fire, add Y2 cupful fine- 
chopped onions, cook 5 minutes without browning; add 1 can of toma- 
toes, 1 teaspoonful salt, Y2 ^ven teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful 
sugar, cook 15 minutes; press the tomatoes through a wire sieve, mix 
the yolks of 2 eggs with 1 tablespoonful cold water, add them to the 
tomatoes ; stir a few minutes over the fire without boiling (if handy, 
add Ys cupful whipped cream). Drain the spaghetti in a sieve, put 
it in a hot dish, in alternate layers with the tomatoes, then serve. 
Another way is to cover the top of dish with grated cheese, then 
bake a few minutes in a hot oven. 

NUDLES. 

Nudles. — Place Y2 pint of flour on a pastry board, make a hol- 
low in center, put in 2 well-beaten eggs, Y2 teaspoonful of butter, a 
sprinkle of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of water, work this with sufficient 
flour into a stiff paste until it does not stick to the hands, then di- 



MACARONI AND NUDLES. 519 

vide it into 8 equal parts, roll out each part as thin as paper, and 
let lie for 15 minutes ; then cut each part into long strips IY2 inch 
in width ; lay 4 strips on top of one another, and cut as fine as pos- 
sible ; shake the nudles apart and spread on the board to dry ; they 
are then ready for use, either for soup or other dishes mentioned in 
various recipes. If the nudles are not all used at once they may, 
when thoroughly dry, be put away in a box, where they will keep for 
several weeks. Another way is to take 4 yolks and no water in 
place of whole eggs, otherwise prepare in the same way. 

Nudles, Boiled, dressed with Pork and Onions.— Prepare 
some nudles from 2 whole eggs as directed, cut Yg ir^ch wide. 
Sprinkle the nudles in a saucepan of boiling water, add 1 table- 
spoonful salt, and cook 12 minutes ; then drain, and put in a hot 
dish. Fry 4 ounces fine-cut larding pork to a straw-color, add Yg 
cupful fine-cut onions, and cook 5 minutes without browning ; pour 
it over the nudles, and serve. 

Nudles with Tomato Sauce a I'Allemande. — Prepare and 
boil the nudles of 2 whole eggs as directed. Place a saucepan with 
2 ounces butter over the fire, add 2 fine-chopped onions, 1 bay leaf, 
and 12 whole peppers, cook 5 minutes without browning ; add 1 
can of tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful pepper, 1 table- 
spoonful sugar, cook 15 minutes ; mix Ys tablespoonful cornstarch 
with a little cold water, add it to the tomatoes, cook a few minutes. 
Draw the saucepan to side of stove ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with a 
little cold water, add to the tomatoes, stir for a few minutes over 
the fire ; add 1 tablespoonful unsweetened condensed milk (or 2 
tablespoonfuls whipped cream), drain the nudles. When done put 
them in a hot dish in alternate layers with the tomatoes, and serve. 

Nudles a I'ltalienne. — Prepare and boil the nudles from the 
yolks of 4 eggs. Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over the fire, 
add 1 gill of fine-chopped onion, Y2 fine-chopped green pepper, 
cook 5 minutes ; add Ys cupful dried mushrooms previously soaked 
in cold water, Ys can of tomatoes, Ys teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful 



520 MACARONI AND NUDLES. 

sugar, cook 10 minutes ; drain the nudles in a sieve. Place a layer 
of nudles in a souffle or pudding dish, pour over some of the toma- 
toes, and sprinkle over 2 tablespoonf uls grated cheese ; repeat until 
all the nudles are placed in the dish, then cover the top with cheese, 
sprinkle over it 1 tablespoonful bread crumbs, and bake light brown 
in a hot oven about 10 minutes ; then serve. This dish can also be 
prepared without the cheese. 

Nudle Border. — Prepare nudles from the yolks of 4 eggs as 
directed in foregoing recipe ; boil 6 minutes in salted water, then 
drain on a sieve. Return the nudles to the saucepan, add 2 ounces 
butter and Yg teaspoonful nutmeg, toss for a few minutes over 
the fire ; then fill into a buttered border form, press in firmly and 
smooth evenly on the top. Set the mold in a pan of hot water, the 
water reaching half way up the form, cover, and let it stand 10 
minutes on side of stove, then turn the border on to a hot dish, and 
dress the articles to be served with it either on top or inside the 
border. 

Boiled Nudles with Bread Crumbs. — Prepare some nudles 
of 2 whole eggs, as directed in foregoing recipe. Place a saucepan 
with 3 quarts water over the fire ; as soon as it boils add 1 table- 
spoonful salt, and gradually sprinkle in the nudles; stir at first 
lightly to prevent sticking to the saucepan, then cover, and boil 10 
minutes. In the meantime grate some stale bread on a grater, put 
1 cupful crumbs in a tin pan, pour over 1 ounce melted butter, mix 
the crumbs and butter well together ; set the pan in a hot oven 
and bake till light brown, stirring often. Drain the nudles as soon 
as done in a sieve or colander, put in a hot dish, pour over 1 ounce 
melted butter, mix with 2 forks, spread the crumbs over the top, 
and serve. 

Petites Croustades of Nudles.— Prepare a nudle paste of the 
yolks of 4 eggs, Y4 teaspoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful butter, and 1 
tablespoonful cream. Divide the paste into 4 equal parts, roll each 
part out as thin as possible, then cut into 6-inch-wide strips, 



MACARONI AND NUDLES. 521 

let lie on the board to dry for a few minutes; then lay 4 strips 
over one another, cut these into fine strips, then dust with flour, 
shake up well, and leave to dry for 1 hour. Place a saucepan with 
2 quarts of boiling water over the fire, add Y2 tablespoonful salt ; as 
soon as it boils sprinkle in the nudles, cook 6 minutes ; pour in a 
sieve to drain. Eeturn the nudles to the saucepan, add 1 ounce 
butter and lYg ounce grated Parmesan or American cheese, Yg tea- 
spoonful nutmeg ; put the nudles, 2 inches deep, into a buttered 
pan. Cover with buttered paper, put over a light weight, and set 
aside to cool. When thoroughly cold turn the nudles on a board, 
cut out lYs-inch pieces with a round cutter, roll in fresh grated 
bread crumbs, dip into beaten egg, and roll again in bread crumbs ; 
make with a small cutter an incision on top of each croustade, to 
form a cover, fry in deep fat to a fine golden color ; carefully re- 
move to blotting paper, lift off the cover, hollow out with a spoon, 
and fill with chicken salpicon or a chicken piiree. Replace the 
cover, and serve on a napkin. Nudle croustades may be filled with 
any kind of salpicon. 



RICE, HOMINY, AND BREAD CROUSTADES. 

Boiled B-ice a PAllemande. — Place a saucepan with Y2 pound 
■well-washed rice over the fire, cover with cold water, boil 5 min- 
utes ; then drain, and rinse with cold water. Put the rice in a dou- 
ble boiler, add IV2 pint milk, Yg teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful 
sugar, and Yg tablespoonful butter ; cover and cook till tender ; if 
necessary add more milk. The rice when done should be thick and 
the kernels not broken. This rice is served as a vegetable to meat. 

Bice Milanaise. — Put Y2 pound well-washed rice in a sauce- 
pan of boiling water, cook 10 minutes, then drain, and rinse with 
cold water. Put the rice into a double boiler, cover with 1 pint of 
water, 1 even teaspoonful salt, and cook till tender and thick, with 
the kernels unbroken. At the same time melt 2 ounces of butter in 
a saucepan, add 2 fine-chopped onions and Ys fine-chopped green 
pepper without the seeds, cook 5 minutes without browning, then 
add Ys pint of stewed tomatoes, 6 fine-chopped mushrooms, 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, cover and cook slowly 10 minutes. When the rice 
is done, add it to the onion and tomatoes ; mingle lightly together, 
and serve in a hot dish. Another way is to add to the above prepa- 
ration, 5 minutes before serving, 2 ounces grated cheese. 

Bice with Apples. — Parboil Y2 pound of rice 10 minutes in 
water ; then drain, and rinse with cold water ; return to the sauce- 
pan, cover with 1 pint fresh water, add Ys teaspoonful salt, IY2 table- 
spoonful sugar, and 6 peeled and fine-cut apples ; cook until done, 
then serve with roast pork. 

Bice Timbales, Plain. — Wash and place Y2 pound rice in a 
saucepan over the fire, cover with cold water, cook 5 minutes ; 

522 



RICE, HOMINY, AND BREAD CROUSTADES. 523 

drain and rinse with cold water; return to the saucepan, cover 
with 1 pint milk, add Y2 teaspoonful salt, 1 ounce butter, cook 
until done ; then remove from fire, add the yolks of 2 eggs, 
mix well. Fill the rice into small buttered timbale forms, set the 
timbales in a pan half filled with hot water, place the pan in a me- 
dium-hot oven, and bake 10 minutes ; then unmold and serve. 
Rice timbales are used as a garnish for fricassees, blanquet of veal, 
and other dishes. They may also be served as a dessert with fruit 
sauce or preserved cherries or strawberries. 

Rice Timbales h la Financiere. — Wash and blanch Yg pound 
rice, place in a saucepan, cover with 1 pint chicken broth, add ^/g 
teaspoonful salt and Yg ounce butter, cover and cook till tender (if 
the rice should be too dry, add a little more broth). When done, 
mix the rice with the yolks of 3 eggs, fill 6 small buttered timbale 
forms three quarters full with the rice, press it against the bottoms 
and sides of forms, to leave a hollow space in center, and fill 1 spoon- 
ful salpicon a la financiere into each timbale. Cover the forms with 
rice, place the timbales in a pan half full of water, and the pan in a 
medium-hot oven ; cover with buttered paper, and bake 15 minutes. 
Then remove, unmold the timbales, and serve with sauce financiere. 

Rice Croquettes, No. 1. — Blanch Y2 pound of rice in boiling 
water for 5 minutes, drain, and rinse with cold water ; return the 
rice to saucepan, cover with 1 pint of white broth, season with 1 
even teaspoonful salt, and cook till tender ; then remove. Mix the 
rice with IY2 ounce butter, 3 ounces grated cheese, and 3 table- 
spoonfuls cream ; spread the mixture on a flat dish IY4 inch high, 
and set aside to cool ; half an hour before serving, cut the rice into 
pieces 3 inches long and 1 inch wide, roll in fresh grated bread 
crumbs ; then dip in beaten egg and roll again in bread crumbs ; 
shape nicely and fry light brown in hot fat. Lay for a few minutes 
on paper, then serve with broiled or fried meat. 

Rice Croquettes, No. 2. — Parboil Y2 pound of rice 5 minutes 
in water, then drain and rinse with cold water ; return the rice to 
34 



524 RICE, HOMINY, AND BREAD CROUSTADES. 

saucepan, add 1 pint milk, 1 ounce butter, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 
and boil till tender; then mix with the yolks of 2 eggs. Spread the 
rice IV4 inch thick in a shallow tin pan and set aside ; when cold 
cut the rice into strips 3 inches long and 1 inch wide, dip in beaten 
eggs, and roll in fresh grated bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat to a 
fine golden color, lay for a few minutes on paper ; then serve on 
a hot dish. They are nice for breakfast with broiled chops or 
steaks. 

Small Rice Croustades a la Toulouse. — Parboil Y2 pound 
rice 5 minutes in water, then drain, and rinse it with cold water; 
return to saucepan, cover with 1 pint of chicken broth ; add 1 even 
teaspoonful salt, 1 ounce butter, and cook till tender (if the rice 
should be too dry, add a little more bouillon). When done mix 
with 3 tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan or American cheese, add 
lastly the yolks of 2 eggs ; spread the rice IY4 inch thick in a but- 
tered pan, and set aside to cool. Then cut with a cutter of lYg inch 
diameter round pieces, cover with grated bread crumbs, brush over 
with beaten egg, and again cover with grated bread crumbs. Make 
an incision with a small cutter on top of each croustade to form the 
cover ; fry in deep hot fat to a fine golden color ; carefully remove. 
Set the croustade for a few minutes on paper, removing the cover, 
hollow out with a teaspoon, and fill with a salpicon a la Toulouse ; 
lay a small white cooked mushroom on top of each, and serve on a 
napkin. 

Petites Croustades of Rice h la Parmesan.— Prepare 6 

rice croustades as in foregoing recipe. Beat 3 eggs until very light, 
add a small pinch of salt and 3 tablespoonfuls cream or milk ; beat 
again for a few seconds. Place a small frying pan with Y2 table- 
spoonful butter over the fire ; as soon as hot, pour in the beaten 
eggs, stir and cook till the eggs begin to thicken, then sprinkle over 
3 tablespoonfuls grated cheese. Mix the cheese lightly with the 
eggs, then remove from fire. Fill the croustades with the egg 
preparation, cover them either with their own cover or with a slice 



RICE, HOMINY, AND BREAD CROUSTADES. 525 

of truffle ; serve on a napkin. Croustades of farina are prepared 
in the same way. 

Small Timbales of Rice a la Portuguese.— Parboil for 5 
minutes Yg pound rice ; drain, and rinse in cold water ; return to 
saucepan, cover with 1 pint of white broth, and cook 10 minutes. 
Fry 1 fine-chopped white onion in 1 ounce butter 5 minutes without 
browning, add it to the rice ; season with 1 even teaspoonful salt 
and Vs even teaspoonful pepper, cook till done ; then mix with lYg 
ounce butter and 3 tablespoonfuls bechamel sauce. Butter some 
timbale forms, decorate the bottom and sides with truffles, fill three 
quarters full with rice, press the rice against sides and bottom to 
have a hollow space in center, fill with 1 tablespoonful salpicon a la 
royale, cover with rice. Set the timbales on a shallow tin pan, place 
for 5 minutes in the oven ; then unmold, and serve with creme, 
I'allemande or bechamel sauce. 

Rice Border, — Parboil for 5 minutes Yg pound of rice in water ; 
drain, and rinse with cold water ; place in a double boiler, add 1 
pint of milk, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 1 ounce butter, cook until ten- 
der ; add 1 ounce butter in small pieces, Ys teaspoonful nutmeg, the 
yolks of 2 eggs. Fill the rice in a border form, set the form in a 
vessel of hot water, the water reaching half way up ; place in a 
medium-hot oven, cover with buttered paper, and bake 10 minutes. 
Shortly before serving turn the rice out of form on to a hot dish, 
and lay the articles which are to be served with it on top and inside 
the border. 

Risotto a la Milanaise. — Place a saucepan with 1 ounce but- 
ter over the fire ; add Ys cupful fine-chopped onion, cook 6 minutes 
without browning ; add Ys cupful fine-chopped mushrooms, and draw 
the saucepan to side of stove. Wash and place 1 cup of rice in a 
saucepan over the fire, cover with cold water, boil 10 minutes; 
strain in a sieve, and rinse with cold water; add the rice to the 
onion in saucepan, stir and cook 5 minutes ; then add 3 cups of 
white broth, 1 teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful white pepper ; place 



526 RICE, HOMINY, AND BREAD CROUSTADES. 

the saucepan in a vessel of hot water, cover and boil till done with 
the kernels whole (if necessary, add a little more broth while boil- 
ing) ; add lastly a little Spanish saffron dissolved in 1 tablespoonful 
broth. Turn the rice on to a dish, sprinkle over 4 tablespoonfuls 
grated cheese and 1 ounce butter in small pieces ; mix the whole 
together with 2 forks, and serve. 

Foundations. — Foundations are used to give entrees a hand- 
some appearance. They consist of 1 piece, and are made of rice, 
bread, forcemeat, paste, or wood. They should fit exactly on the 
dish on which they are to be served ; they may be either smooth on 
top or hollowed out in the center, and are also made of 2 or 3 pieces 
of different sizes, the top smaller than the lower ; they should be 
firmly made and rolled, so that, if necessary, the foundation will be 
able to carry a small vase or cupola. The foundation should be 1 
to IV2 inch in thickness. 

Rice Foundation. — Place IY2 pound well-washed rice in a 
double boiler or steamer, add 3 pints cold water, lYg ounce butter, 
and 1 teaspoonful salt, cook until soft ; remove from the fire, put 
into a wooden bowl, and mash fine ; then take the rice on to a 
marble slab or molding board and work with wet hands until per- 
fectly smooth. Put the rice V-jz inch deep into a buttered fluted 
or plain mold, smooth the top with a knife, cover with buttered 
paper, and set it for 8 hours in a cool place or on ice. Shortly be- 
fore serving set the mold for a few minutes in hot water, then turn 
it on to the dish the entree is to be served on, remove some rice % inch 
deep from the center and 1 inch from the edge. Arrange a ragout 
in the center and place a border of fillets of chicken, game, or 
cutlets in a circle around it, or vegetables may be put in the 
center. 

Bread Foundation. — The bread should be baked in a round 
pan Y2 inch larger as used for the foundations ; it should be 2 days old. 
Cut the bread to Y2 inch in thickness, pare off the crust, make an 
incision on top with a small pointed knife IY2 inch from the edge, 



RICE, HOMINY, AND BREAD CROUSTADES. 527 

put it into a pan of hot fat, and fry light brown ; remove to blot- 
ting paper, and where the incision was made hollow it out ^4 inch 
in depth. Or spread soft butter all over the foundation, set it on a 
baking pan, and bake to a fine golden color in a hot oven ; then 
fasten it on to the dish the entree is to be served on with white of 
egg and flour. 

Petites Croustades of Bread. — Procure 1 large long-shaped 
loaf of bread 2 days old, cut from the middle 3 even slices lYg inch 
in thickness ; then cut with a 272-inch cutter 2 rounds out of each 
slice of bread. Make on top of each slice with a pointed knife a 
round incision Y4 inch from the edge to form the cover ; brush the 
croustades over with melted butter, set in a shallow pan, and bake 
to a handsome golden color in a hot oven. Eemove from the oven, 
scoop out the insides with a small spoon, and fill the croustades with 
any kind of salpicon or kidney saute. 

Canapes of Bread. — Cut from the middle of a long loaf of 
stale bread 3 lYg-inch- thick slices, cut each lengthwise into 2 pieces 
4 inches long and 2 inches wide, pare neatly and round the corners ; 
then make with a small pointed knife a circular incision on top of 
each 1^/4 inch from the edge. Spread the canapes over with a 
little soft butter, set on a baking sheet, and bake in a hot oven to a 
fine golden color. Take them from the oven, remove the bread 
where the incision was made, hollow the crust out with a spoon, and 
use for serving small-boned reed birds, lark, and game fillets. 

Bread Crotitons. — Cut several slices from a stale loaf of baker's 
bread Yg inch in thickness, cut them with a cutter either into heart, 
round, or oval shapes, brush over with melted butter, lay on a tin 
pan, and bake to a fine golden color in a hot oven ; remove and use 
them for garnishing. 

Crust a la Duchesse. — Cut the rind in large sheets from a 
Vienna loaf of bread, then cut the crust with a small cutter into 
small round pieces, lay the pieces on a baking tin, and bake a few 
minutes in the oven ; then serve with soup. 



528 RICE, HOMINY, AND BREAD CROUSTADES. 

Border of Crotltons. — Cut some slices from a 2-day8'-olcl loaf 
of bread, the slices with a cutter into round pieces, then each round 
piece into half, and spread thinly with butter on both sides. Lay 
them in a tin pan and bake in a hot oven to a fine golden color on 
both sides. Eemove, and when cold fasten them with a paste made 
of white of egg and flour in a circle around the dish, one overlap- 
ping the other. Place the dish for a few minutes in the oven, then 
remove and serve. The bread may be cut in different ways to suit 
the fancy, like half moons, round or oval shapes, pointed or square. 

Hominy, Boiled. — Place 1 quart of boiling water in a sauce- 
pan over the fire, add 1 teaspoonful salt ; mix 1 cupful hominy 
with 1 cupful cold water, stir it into the boiling water, cook slowly 
30 minutes, stirring often. Serve for breakfast. 

Hominy, Fried. — Boil 1 cupful hominy as in foregoing recipe ; 
rinse out a dish with cold water, pour in the hominy, and set aside. 
When perfectly cold cut into slices, dip in beaten egg, and cover 
with bread crumbs, then fry in hot fat light brown on both sides. 
Serve for breakfast or use for garnishing wild ducks. It may also 
be cut into heart shapes, half moons, or round shapes. 



CHEESE DISHES. 

Cheese Souffle. — Place a saucepan with Y2 pint of boiling milk 
and 2 ounces butter over the fire, add 4 ounces sifted flour, stir until 
it forms a paste and loosens itself from bottom of saucepan. Turn 
the paste into a bowl, and when nearly cold mix it gradually with 
the yolks of 5 eggs, 4 ounces grated Parmesan cheese, Y2 cupful 
whipped cream, 1 ounce butter, and the beaten whites. Fill the 
preparation into a buttered souffle dish, set the dish in a pan of hot 
water, water reaching half way up the form ; bake about 25 minutes, 
till done. 

Cheese Koch a la Yiennoise. — Put the yolks of 6 eggs in a 
small saucepan, add gradually 4 ounces partly melted butter, while 
stirring constantly ; place the saucepan over a slow fire and stir till 
beginning to thicken, then instantly remove, add slowly, stirring 
continually, 3 ounces Parmesan and 3 ounces grated Swiss cheese ; 
then add 1 gill of whipped cream. Beat 4 whites to a stiff froth, 
add slowly the cheese preparation to the whites, fill the mixture into 
a buttered souffle dish, set it in a pan of hot water, place in a medium- 
hot oven, and bake till done. 

Petites Caisses au Fromage. — Melt in a small saucepan 2 
ounces butter, remove from fire, and when nearly cold add the yolks 
of 6 eggs ; return the saucepan to fire, stirring until beginning to 
thicken ; instantly remove, add 2 ounces grated Swiss and 2 ounces 
grated Parmesan cheese, Y4 even teapoonful white pepper, and the 
same of salt. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, add them to the 
cheese preparation. Butter 6 small paper boxes, set them on a tin 
pan, place in a medium-hot oven for 10 minutes ; remove, and when 

529 



530 CHEESE DISHES. 

cold fill tliera with the above preparation, return the cases to the 
oven, and bake from 10 to 15 minutes, till done. Serve as soon as 
done. 

Welsh Rarebit, — Toast 4 thin slices of bread to a fine golden 
color, lay the toast on 4 hot plates and keep warm. Place a sauce- 
pan with Yg pound fine-cut American cheese, 4 tablespoonfuls ale, 
and Ya ounce of butter, over the fire, stir until it forms into a creamy 
mixture, then pour it over the hot toast, and serve immediately. In 
place of ale, cream or water may be taken ; if liked, a little English 
mustard may be added, and a sprinkle of Cayenne pepper. 

Golden Buck. — Prepare a Welsh rarebit the same as in fore- 
going recipe, and lay on to each 1 poached egg. Another way is to 
lay 1 slice of broiled bacon over the rarebit and a poached egg on 
top the bacon. 

Cheese au Gratin. — Toast 3 slices of bread to a fine golden 
color, place a slice of cheese over each one, lay them into a tin plate, 
and bake in a quick oven till the cheese is melted. Kemove, lay the 
toast on 3 hot plates, and serve at once. 

Fondue on Toast. — Crack 4 eggs in a bowl, beat until 
very light ; add 4 tablespoonfuls milk or cream, beat 2 minutes 
longer ; season with Y4 teaspoonful salt and a pinch of Cayenne 
pepper. Place a small frying pan with Y3 tablespoonful butter over 
the fire ; as soon as melted pour in the eggs, draw them with a spoon 
from the side of pan toward the center ; when the eggs begin to 
thicken add 4 tablespoonfuls grated American cheese, mix and stir 
for a few minutes, then divide it over 4 small slices of hot buttered 
toast, and serve. 

Fondue au Parmesan. — Brush the inside of 6 small paper 
boxes with butter, set aside to dry till the following mixture is made : 
Place a saucepan, with Ys cup cream, IY2 ounce cornstarch, Ys ounce 
butter, a little salt and nutmeg, over the fire, stir this until it boils ; 
remove ; when cold, add the yolks of 3 eggs, the beaten whites of 2 ; 



CHEESE DISHES. 531 

then add lYg ounce grated Parmesan cheese, and fill the boxes three 
quarters full with the mixture. Set them on a tin pan, not too close 
together, and bake in a medium-hot oven 15 to 20 minutes. Serve 
at once. 

Cheese Straws. — Four ounces flour, 2 ounces butter, the yolks 
of 2 eggs, 4 ounces grated cheese, a little Cayenne pepper, 2 table- 
spoonfuls sweet cream or milk. Put the flour in a bowl, make a 
hollow in the center, put in the butter, add the yolks, and work 
the ingredients gradually together ; then add the cream and pepper ; 
when this is well mixed, add the cheese, form into a round ball, and 
set for 1 hour on ice. Then put the paste on a floured board, roll it 
out Ys inch in thickness, brush over with beaten egg cut in small 
strips. Einse out some tin pans with cold water, put in the straws, 
and bake in a quick oven to a delicate brown. A little fine salt 
sprinkled over them when taken from the oven is considered by 
many an improvement. 

Raniequins. — One half cup milk, 2 ounces butter, 2 ounces 
flour, 2 eggs, 1 ounce grated Parmesan cheese, 1 ounce Swiss cheese 
cut into small dice-shaped pieces, Yg teaspoonful sugar, a little 
salt and white pepper, 1 tablespoonful whipped cream. Place the 
milk, salt, sugar, and pepper and half the butter over the fire ; as 
soon as it boils add the flour, stir until formed into a smooth 
paste. When half cooled off add the remaining butter, the eggs, 
then the grated cheese, and the pieces of Swiss cheese ; add lastly 
the cream, place with a tablespoon small portions on a buttered 
baking pan, brush over with beaten egg, and bake in oven. 

Salted Almonds. — Place Ys pound of blanched almonds in a 
shallow tin pan, pour over 1 ounce melted butter, set the pan in a 
medium-hot oven, stir frequently, and roast till light brown. Ke- 
move, put the almonds into a bowl, sprinkle over 1 tablespoonful salt, 
mix well, let stand till cold, then serve ; or put them in a glass jar to 
keep till wanted. One half tablespoonful olive oil may be taken in 
place of butter. Salted peanuts and walnuts are prepared the same way. 



EGG DISHES. 

Poached Eggs. — Place a deep frying pan or a low, wide sauce- 
pan with 2 quarts water over the fire, add Ys teaspoonful salt and Yg 
tablespoonf ul vinegar ; as soon as it boils crack an egg, hold it close 
over the boiling water, and let it drop ; treat the remainder the 
same way ; then draw the pan to side of stove, where the water will 
stop boiling. As soon as the white is firm remove the eggs care- 
fully with a skimmer, cut them into a round shape with a cake 
cutter, and slip the egg on to a piece of buttered toast. If the 
poached eggs are to be used for garnishing spinach, Welsh rarebit, 
or other dishes, the eggs may be cooked, then put into cold water, 
and reheated when wanted. Care must be taken not to poach 
more at a time than will go in a saucepan without crowding. 

Eggs boiled for Garnishing.— Place 6 fresh eggs in a wire 
basket, put into a saucepan of boiling water, boil exactly 5 minutes ; 
lay the eggs at once in cold water, remove the shell without impair- 
ing the eggs, lay in fresh cold water, and reheat them when wanted. 
These eggs are used for garnishing, or may be served with lettuce 
and mayonnaise. 

Eggs, Boiled. — Only fresh eggs should be taken for boiling ; if 
they are not clean wash them in cold water. Place a saucepan with 
boiling water over the fire, put the eggs carefully into the boiling 
water with a spoon or ladle ; if wanted soft, boil 3 minutes ; if 
medium, 5 minutes ; and if hard, from 7 to 10 minutes. Ke- 
move the eggs, lay in cold water for a minute, then take out, 
and serve. 

533 



EGG DISHES. 533 

Eggs, Fried. — Use either olive oil, lard, or butter for frying eggs. 
Place a small deep frying pan with 1 tablespoonful butter over the 
fire ; as soon as hot break into it 1 egg, incline it slightly so that 
the butter is all around the egg, pour the hot butter with a spoon 
over the egg for 1 minute, then turn over and fry Yg minute on the 
other side. Lift it up with a cake turner, dress on a hot dish ; pro- 
ceed and fry the remaining eggs the same way, until the desired 
quantity is cooked ; if necessary add more butter, lard, or oil as the 
frying continues ; season with a little salt and white pepper. 

Eggs fried a PAllemande. — Place a small frying pan with 1 
tablespoonful pure leaf lard or butter over the fire ; as soon as hot 
break in 1 egg, keep pouring the hot butter over the egg with a 
spoon until the yolk is covered with a thin white sheet ; then care- 
fully lift it up with a cake turner, dress on a hot dish, and sprinkle 
over a little seasoning salt ; proceed until the desired quantity of 
eggs are cooked ; each egg must be cooked separately, and more 
lard or butter added if necessary. 

Eggs an Miroir, Fried. — Break 2 eggs in a cup. Place a 
small frying pan with Yg tablespoonful butter over the fire ; as soon 
as melted put in the eggs, fry over slow fire till the white is firm 
and the yolk soft ; remove them with a cake turner, being careful 
not to break the yolk, and serve. 

Eggs ail Miroir, Baked.— Butter a pie plate large enough to 
hold 6 eggs without crowding ; break in 6 eggs, one beside the 
other; season with Ya even teaspoonful salt. Place the plate for 
a few minutes in a hot oven to bake (about 2 to 3 minutes) till 
the white is firm. Eemove the plate, cut with a round cutter the 
eggs into a perfect round shape, lift with a cake turner on to a warm 
dish, and serve, or use for garnishing. Or put them on a crouton 
of same size as the egg, which should be cut with the same cutter, 
or on a piece of toast of same size. Another way is to cut boiled 
ham into round slices of same size as the egg and crouton ; fry it 
for 1 minute in butter on each side, then put it on the crouton, on 



534 EGG DISHES. 

top the ham place the egg. Another way is to butter a silver dish 
large enough to hold the desired quantity of eggs to be cooked, 
break in the eggs one beside the other, taking care to keep the 
yolks apart ; season with a little salt, place them for 2 minutes in a 
hot oven, set the dish into another, and serve. 

Eggs scrambled a la Fran^aise.— Melt 1 ounce of butter in 
a small low saucepan, break into it 4 eggs, season with Y4 even tea- 
spoonful salt, a pinch of Avliite pepper and nutmeg, stir for 3 min- 
utes, put the eggs on a hot dish, sprinkle over 1 tablespoonful 
lemon juice, and serve. 

Eggs scrambled a I'AUemande. — Break 6 eggs into a bowl, 
add Ya even teaspoonful salt, and beat the eggs with an egg beater 
until very light ; then add to every egg 1 tablespoonful cold water, 
beat a few minutes longer. Place a medium-sized frying pan with 1 
tablespoonful butter over the fire ; as soon as melted put in the 
eggs ; when they begin to set draw the eggs with a spoon from the 
sides of pan toward the center, continue until the eggs are firm, 
then take up by spoonfuls, lay on a warm plate, and serve. 

Scrambled Eggs a rAmericaine. — Break 6 eggs into a 
bowl, add Yg even teaspoonful salt and a little white pepper, beat 
until light. Place a small-sized frying pan with 1 ounce butter 
over the fire ; as soon as melted pour in the eggs ; when they begin 
to set draw them with a spoon from the edge of pan to the center 
until they become thick ; then serve on a warm dish. 

Scrambled Eggs and Bacon. — Cut 2 ounces bacon into 
pieces Y2 finger long and % inch thick, place it in a frying pan over 
the fire, fry until light brown; Beat up 6 eggs until very light, add 
them to the pork, season with Ys even teaspoonful salt ; as soon as 
they begin to set, draw the eggs with a spoon from the sides of pan 
to the middle ; when firm, but still soft, put them on to a warm dish 
and serve. 

Scrambled Eggs with Truffles.— Break 6 eggs into a bowl, 
beat with an egg beater until very light; season with Y2 even tea- 



EGG DISHES. 535 

spoonful salt, add 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, beat 2 minutes longer. 
Place a small saucepan with 2 ounces butter over the fire, as soon as 
melted pour in the eggs, stir until they thicken ; then draw to side 
of stove, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-cut truffles, and stir 1 minute ; 
turn the eggs on to a warm dish, and garnish with small round 
bread croutons. In place of truffles 1 cupful boiled asparagus tops 
may be added, or Yg pint cooked green peas. 

Scrambled Eggs with Boiled Ham. — Chop 6 ounces boiled 
ham very fine, crack 6 eggs in a bowl, beat until light ; add 4 
tablespoonfuls milk or water, beat 2 minutes ; then place a small 
saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire; as soon as 
melted pour in the eggs, stir until they begin to thicken, then add 
the fine-chopped ham, stir 1 minute longer. Serve on a warm dish 
with toast or bread and butter. 

Scrambled Eggs with Fines Herbes.— Place a saucepan with 
2 ounces butter and 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onions over the 
fire, cook 3 minutes ; add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped mushrooms, 
cook 2 minutes ; season with Yg teaspoonful seasoning salt. Beat 
6 eggs in a bowl until very light, add 4 tablespoonfuls cream, beat 
2 minutes longer ; add to the saucepan, stir until the eggs begin to 
thicken ; then draw to side of stove, add 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped 
parsley, stir for 1 minute. Serve on a warm dish, garnish with 
small round-shaped bread croutons. 

Scrambled Eggs with Smoked Beef.— Place 6 ounces 
smoked beef in a saucepan, cover with cold water, set it over the 
fire ; as soon as it begins to boil drain the beef and chop it fine. 
Break 6 eggs into a bowl, beat with an egg beater until very light ; 
add 6 tablespoonfuls water, beat 2 minutes longer. Place a small 
saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire ; as soon as 
melted pour in the eggs, stir until they begin to thicken, then add 
the beef, stir a few minutes longer ; serve on a warm dish with 
toast or bread and butter. 



536 EGG DISHES. 

Scrambled Eggs with Shrimps. — Place a saucepan with Yg 
tablespoonful butter over the fire, add Yg pint of fresh boiled 
shrimps, stir and cook a few minutes. Scramble 6 eggs the same 
as in foregoing recipe, add the shrimps, stir for 1 minute, and 
serve. 

Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes.— Peel and cut into quar- 
ters 2 ripe tomatoes ; place a small frying pan with Ys tablespoonful 
butter over the fire ; add the tomatoes, season with Y2 ©^'en teaspoon- 
ful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, and the same of sugar, cook 10 min- 
utes without a cover. Break 6 eggs into a bowl, beat with an egg 
beater until very light, season with Y4 even teaspoonful salt. Place 
a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful butter over the fire ; as soon as 
melted add the eggs, stir until they begin to thicken, then add the 
tomatoes ; stir and cook 2 minutes, then serve on toast. 

German Omelet. — Separate the whites and yolks of 3 eggs, 
beat the whites to a stiff broth. Mix the yolks with Y4 teaspoonful 
salt and 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water, pour the yolk mixture 
slowly into the whites while beating constantly. Place an omelet 
or a medium-sized frying pan over the fire with 1 tablespoonful 
butter ; as soon as hot pour in the egg mixture ; do not stir, but 
when the eggs begin to set, slip a broad-bladed knife under the 
omelet to keep it from burning at the bottom, and shake the pan to 
and fro. When light brown on the under side, place the pan for 2 
or 3 minutes in a hot oven to bake it a little on top ; then remove, 
slip the knife under one side of the omelet and double in half, slip 
it on to a hot dish, and serve. If liked, 1 tablespoonful fine- 
chopped parsley may be added to the omelet mixture before baking. 

French Omelet. — Break 6 eggs into a pitcher, beat 4 minutes 
with an egg beater, season with Ys even teaspoonful salt. Place an 
omelet pan or a medium-sized frying pan with 1 tablespoonful but- 
ter over the fire ; when very hot, pour in the eggs, draw with a fork 
from the edge of pan to the center; when the omelet begins to get 
firm, let it remain Ys minute without stirring, then fold it over each 



EGG DISHES. 53Y 

side so that the 2 sides meet in the center. Turn the omelet on to 
a hot dish, the folded side underneath, and serve. A tablespoonful 
of fine-chopped parsley may be added to the egg mixture before 
they are baked, or fine-cut chives. 

Spanish Omelet. — Place a saucepan with 1 ounce butter over 
the fire ; add 1 fine-chopped onion, 1 fine-chopped green pepper 
without the seeds, cook 5 minutes without browning ; add 2 table- 
spoonfuls fine-chopped mushrooms, Yg cupful canned tomatoes, 1 even 
teaspoouful salt, Yg even teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful fine- 
chopped ham, Ys teaspoonful sugar, and Ys teaspoonful beef extract, 
cook 10 minutes. Prepare a German omelet of 3 eggs, pour 3 table- 
spoonfuls of the preparation over the omelet, fold it together, slip the 
omelet on to a hot dish, pour the remaining sauce over it, and serve. 
The dish may be garnished with small fried codfish balls the size of a 
hickory nut or French fried potatoes. 

Oyster Omelet. — Prepare either a German or French omelet. 
Place 13 medium-sized oysters, without their liquor, in a small 
saucepan, add Y2 ounce butter, Y2 even teaspoonful seasoning salt, 
Y2 tablespoonful lemon juice ; set the saucepan over the fire, cook 
a few minutes till the oysters stiffen and begin to ruffie ; then draw 
the saucepan to side of stove. Mix the yolk of 2 eggs with Y2 giU 
of cream, add it to the oysters, stir for 1 minute over the fire, then 
remove. As soon as the omelet is done lay the oysters over the ome- 
let, fold it double, and slide on to a hot dish ; pour the sauce around 
it, and serve. Fried oysters can be used in the same manner. 

Cheese Omelet. — Separate the yolk from the whites of 4 eggs ; 
mix the yolks with 4 tablespoonfuls cream, Y2 even teaspoonful salt, 
and a pinch of Cayenne pepper ; beat the whites to a stiff froth, 
add gradually the yolks while beating constantly. Grate 2 ounces 
cheese, either Swiss or American. Place a frying pan over the 
fire with 1 tablespoonful butter; when hot, pour in the eggs; 
when they begin to set, draw the eggs from side of pan toward the 
center ; when thickening, sprinkle over the grated cheese, let re- 



538 EGG DISHES. 

main without stirring till light brown on the under side ; then place 
the pan for 2 minutes in a hot oven ; remove, fold the omelet over 
and slip on to a hot dish, ?nd serve. 

Lobster Omelet. — Place % pint cooked lobster meat in a sauce- 
pan, cover barely with cream. Mix 1 teaspoonful butter with Y2 tea- 
spoonful cornstarch, add it to the lobster, season with Y3 even tea- 
spoonful seasoning salt, and cook 3 minutes. Prepare either a French 
or German omelet, put part of the lobster over the omelet, fold, and 
slip it on to a hot dish, pour the remaining lobster around it, and serve. 

Crab^ Crawfish, and Shrimp Omelets.— Prepared the same 
as lobster omelet. 

Tomato Omelet, No. 1. — Place a frying pan with 1 ounce of 
butter over the fire ; peel and cut into quarters 3 ripe tomatoes, add 
them to the butter, season with ^4 teaspoonful salt, the same of pep- 
per and sugar, cook 10 minutes. Prepare a French or German 
omelet, lay half of the tomatoes over the omelet, fold it over and 
slip on to a hot dish, pour the remaining tomatoes around it, and 
serve with toast or bread and butter. 

Tomato Omelet, No. 2. — Drain Y2 piii^^ of canned tomatoes 
in a sieve, melt 2 ounces butter in a saucepan, add the tomatoes, 
season with Yg teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, and the same 
of sugar ; cook 10 minutes. Beat 6 eggs until very light, add to 
the tomatoes, stir a few minutes, then let rest for 1 minute. Fold 
the omelet over, slip it on to a hot plate, and serve. 

Omelet a I'ltalieiine. — Place a frying pan with 2 ounces but- 
ter over the fire, add 2 tablespoonfuls fine-chopped onion, 1 small 
bruised clove of garlic, cook 3 minutes ; add 6 dried mushrooms, 
previously soaked in water, 4 ripe peeled tomatoes cut into quar- 
ters ; season with Y2 teaspoonful salt, Yi teaspoonful pepper, and the 
same of sugar ; cook slowly 10 minutes. Separate the whites and 
yolks of 5 eggs, beat the whites to a stiff froth ; add the yolks ; beat 
1 minute longer ; add the eggs to the preparation in pan ; when 
beginning to set, draw them gently with a fork from the side of pan 



EGG DISHES. 639 

to the center. When nearly firm leave for a few minutes without 
stirring ; fold the omelet over from both sides, and turn it on to a 
dish, with the folded side underneath, and serve. 

Kidney Omelet. — Place a small saucepan with 1 tablespoon- 
ful fine-chopped onion, 1 ounce butter, Yg bay leaf, and 6 whole 
peppers, over the fire, cook 5 minutes without browning ; add 1 tea- 
spoonful flour, stir 1 minute ; add 1 gill of boiling water, Yg tea- 
spoonful liquid beef extract, 3 tablespoonfuls Madeira or sherry 
wine, Ys even teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cook 5 min- 
utes ; then strain the sauce into a clean saucepan. Cut 3 lamb or 
sheep kidneys in halves, remove the white part in the center, cut 
the kidneys into small slices, add them to the sauce, cook 5 min- 
utes. Prepare either a German or French omelet, pour over the 
kidneys, fold and slip the omelet on a hot dish, and serve. 

Eggs a la de Castellane. — Boil 6 eggs 10 minutes, remove 
and lay them in cold water ; when cold take off the shells and cut 
the eggs in halves, remove the yolks, and mash them fine; mix 
with Ys tablespoonful butter, Y2 cupful whipped cream, Ys even tea- 
spoonful pepper, 1 even teaspoonful salt, and Y* teaspoonful nut- 
meg. Mix all together, fill into the eggs, lay them on the dish on 
which they are to be served, and prepare the following sauce : Place 
a small saucepan with 1 ounce butter and 1 tablespoonful fine- 
chopped onion over the fire, add Ys bay leaf, 6 coarsely pounded 
peppers, cook 5 minutes ; add Ys tablespoonful flour, stir 2 minutes ; 
add 1 cupful boiling water, 1 teaspoonful beef extract, 2 tablespoon- 
fuls sherry wine, Ys teaspoonful salt, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cook 5 
minutes; then strain into a clean saucepan, add Ys cupful fine- 
chopped mushrooms, cook 5 minutes ; add 1 teaspoonful fine- 
chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful lemon juice, and a little nutmeg ; 
pour the sauce over the eggs ; set the dish for 5 minutes in a hot 
oven, and serve. 

Stuffed Eggs. — Boil 1 dozen eggs 10 minutes, lay them in cold 
water. When cold remove the shell, cut the eggs in halves leugth- 
35 



540 EGG DISHES. 

wise, take out and mash the yolks fine. Mix with 1 cupful fine- 
minced roasted lamb, 1 grated onion, 2 fine-rolled soda crackers, 
the yolks of 2 raw eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls milk or cream, 1 ounce 
melted butter, and season with pepper and salt. When this is well 
blended, fill the 2 halves with this, smooth and press the two to- 
gether, dip first in beaten egg, and then in fine bread crumbs ; put 
in a wire basket and dip into boiling lard, fry light brown ; drain 
off all the fat and serve in a napkin. They may be eaten either hot 
or cold ; are also excellent to take to a picnic. In place of roasted 
lamb, chicken or turkey meat may be used ; also ham or tongue. 

Cream Eggs. — Boil some fresh eggs for 5 minutes, lay them in 
cold water ; when cold remove the shell, and wrap each egg in 2 or 
3 lettuce leaves. Serve to each person 1 egg on a small plate with 1 
tablespoonful mayonnaise over it. A few capers may be added to 
the mayonnaise. 

Snow Eggs. — Six eggs, 1 quart milk, 4 tablespoonfuls sugar, 1 
teaspoonful lemon extract. Separate the yolks carefully from the 
whites and beat the latter to a stiff froth. Put the milk in sauce- 
pan over the fire, add the sugar and let come to a boil ; drop in the 
snow a tablespoonful at a time. Cover the saucepan for 2 minutes, 
turn the snowballs around, let remain for 2 minutes longer, then 
take out with a skimmer and lay in a glass dish. Remove the milk 
from fire, let cool off a little ; beat up the 6 yolks, add 4 table- 
spoonfuls cold milk and stir slowly into the hot milk. Place the 
saucepan with the milk and yolks again over the fire, stir constantly 
until just before the boiling point. Remove, add the lemon extract 
and pour it over the snowballs in glass dish, dust over a little sugar 
and cinnamon. Serve when cold. Vanilla may be taken in place 
of lemon. 

Shrimp Nest. — Cut the whites of 8 hard-boiled eggs into 
shreds, break the yolks into pieces and mix them with 1 pint of 
shrimps. Put shrimps and yolks in center of a shallow round 
dish, arrange the shreds of white about them in shape of a 



EGG DISHES. 541 

bird's nest, and pour over a mayonnaise. Lay on the outside a 
border of cresses or lettuce leaves. In place of shrimps fine-cut 
boiled lobster or fish may be taken. (For mayonnaise, see my book 
Desserts and Salads, 846.) 

Nest of Oysters. — Cut the whites of 8 hard-boiled eggs into 
fine shreds, and break the yolks into very small pieces more like 
crumbs. Two hours before serving, scald 1 quart oysters in their 
own liquor, drain and put the oysters into a dish and cover with 
cracked ice. Twenty minutes before serving, remove the ice, drain 
off the water from oysters and squeeze a little lemon juice over each, 
let lay for 10 minutes, then pile them high in center of a round 
shallow dish. Arrange the shreds of white around them in the 
shape of a bird's nest, pour over a mayonnaise, and sprinkle over 
this the crumbled yolks ; lay on the outside a border of lettuce leaves. 

Eggs en Croutons. — Cut 6 rings from thin slices of bread, fry 
in lard or butter light brown ; lay in rings in a buttered dish, break 
and drop 1 egg into each ring. Pour Y2 cup cream or milk into the 
dish, sprinkle a little salt and pepper over. Cover the dish up and 
bake in oven till the white of egg is firm and the yolks soft. Trans- 
fer the eggs carefully to a hot dish, and serve. 

Cup Eggs on Toast. — Butter Ys dozen cups and dust them 
with fine bread crumbs, put into each one a raw egg and a little 
salt ; set the cups in a pan of hot water on the stove till the whites 
are hard. In the meantime cut several slices of bread into rounds 
with a cake cutter, toast to a handsome golden color, spread with 
butter, and put on to each round one of the eggs in cup. Serve 
hot. 

Eggs on Toast. — Cut the bread into slices Y4 inch in thick- 
ness, and toast them on both sides to a golden color, butter and lay 
the toast on a hot dish ; put on to each piece of toast a poached 
egg or 1 tablespoonful scrambled eggs or egg miroir, or spread the 
toast with anchovy butter, and over this put scrambled eggs. An- 
other way is to free some anchovies from skin and bones, lay 1 



54:2 EGG DISHES. 

anchovy over each piece of toast, and cover with scrambled eggs ; 
or cut fine some smoked herrings and put it over the toast ; also fine 
slices of salmon may be used. Boiled ham or tongue minced fine 
may be used in the same way. Clams scalded in their own liquor, 
then chopped fine, mixed with a little butter, then spread over toast 
and with eggs over it are good ; so are fine-cut shrimps mixed with 
scrambled eggs, then put over buttered toast. A nice way is to cut 
the bread into round shapes before toasting, spread thickly with 
fine-minced tongue. Heap the scrambled eggs upon these in half- 
moon shape, and garnish with parsley. 

Bird's Nest. — Separate the whites and yolks of Yg dozen or 
more of hard-boiled eggs, cut the whites into fine shreds. Pile the 
yolk in the center of a round shallow dish, arrange the shreds of 
white about them in the shape of a bird's nest, pour over carefully 
a mayonnaise. Lay a border of lettuce leaves or water cresses around 
the nest, and serve. 

Eggs Farces a rAllemande. — Boil 6 eggs 10 minutes, re- 
move and lay in cold water ; when cold take off the shell, cut the 
eggs lengthwise in halves ; take out the entire yolk, mash fine in a 
bowl, add 1 ounce melted butter, Yg cupful fine-minced boiled ham 
or tongue, 2 boneless anchovies, 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped shallot 
or white onion, Y4 clove of bruised garlic, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, 
mix all well together. Fill the preparation into the eggs, lay them 
on the dish on which they are to be served, brush over with beaten 
egg, and place for a few minutes in a hot oven ; remove, pour Y2 
pint of tomato sauce a I'allemande over, and serve. Garnish with 
small round croutons. The garlic may be omitted if not liked. 



PANCAKES, MUFFINS, GEMS, Etc. 

German Pancakes. — One heaping cup flour, Y2 teaspoonful 
salt, 2 cupfuls milk or water, 3 eggs. Sift flour and salt into a 
bowl, add the milk and the 3 yolks, mix it into a smooth batter ; 
beat the 3 whites to a stiff froth, add gradually the batter to the 
beaten whites while stirring constantly. Place a medium-sized 
frying pan over the fire, with Y2 tablespoonf ul butter or lard ; as 
soon as hot, pour in suflBcient of the mixture to cover the bottom of 
pan, shake the pan to and fro and bake till light brown on the 
under side, turn over and bake the other ; slip the pancake on to a 
hot plate, bake the remaining batter the same way, and serve at 
once. This will make 4 pancakes. 

Eierkuchen. — Separate the yolks from 4 eggs, mix the yolks 
with 1% cupful milk, Yg pint sifted flour, Y2 teaspoonful salt, stir 
until smooth ; beat the whites to a stiff froth, add slowly the yolk 
mixture while beating constantly. Place a medium-sized frying 
pan, with 1 tablespoonful lard and butter, over the fire, when hot 
pour sufficient batter to cover the bottom, bake light brown on the 
under side, then turn and bake the other side light brown. Slip the 
pancake on to a hot plate, and serve at once. Fry the remainder 
the same way. These pancakes may be spread with marmalade or 
jelly and rolled up, then served. 

Potato Pancake. — Pare, wash, and grate 12 large raw potatoes, 
mix with 1 teaspoonful salt and the yolks of 3 eggs ; beat the whites 
to a stiff froth, add the potatoes slowly to the whites. Place a large 
frying pan with 1 tablespoonful fat over the fire, as soon as hot put 
small portions from the mixture with a spoon into the hot fat, to 

543 



544 PANCAKES, MUFFINS, GEMS, Etc. 

form cakes the size of a saucer, bake light brown on both sides, 
transfer them to a hot plate, and serve with apple sauce or any kind 
of stewed fruit. Another way is to add 2 tablespoonfuls grated 
bread crumbs to the grated potatoes before they are mixed with the 
beaten whites. 

Wheat Cakes. — Put lYg pint of flour into a sieve, add 2 tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder, Yg teaspoonful salt ; sift the flour into 
a bowl, add 1 teaspoonful sugar and 1 ounce of butter, rub the but- 
ter fine in the flour. Mix the yolks of 3 eggs with 1 pint of milk, 
add to the flour, stir and mix to a smooth batter ; then whip the 
whites to a stiff froth, add the batter gradually to the beaten whites 
while stirring constantly. Have a well-greased griddle over the fire; 
as soon as hot make a trial, pour a spoonful of the batter on the 
griddle, and if it should be too thick add a little more milk ; then 
bake them and serve with maple sirup. (SufiBcient for 6 persons.) 

Dennett's Pancakes. — Sift 1 pint of flour, with 2 teaspoonfuls 
baking powder, into a bowl, add Yg teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful 
butter, rub the butter fine in the flour, add Ys pint of water, 2 eggs, 
and 2 tablespoonfuls molasses ; mix this into a smooth batter, and 
bake on a hot well-greased griddle. Serve with maple sirup. 

Rice Cakes. — Mix Ys pint of cold boiled rice with the yolks of 
2 eggs, Y2 gili of milk, and 2 tablespoonfuls of prepared flour ; beat 
the whites to a stiff froth, add slowly the rice mixture to the whites 
while stirring constantly. Place with a tablespoon small portions 
on a hot well-greased griddle, and bake light brown on both sides 
(if too thick, add more milk ; if too thin, more flour) ; continue to 
bake until all are done. Serve on hot plates for breakfast. 

Hominy Cakes. — Prepare the same as Rice Cakes. 

German Buckwheat Pancake. — Place 1 pint of buckwheat 
flour in a bowl, add 3 gills of milk, Y2 teaspoonful salt, and the yolks 
of 2 eggs. Mix this into a smooth batter, beat the whites to a 
stiff froth, add slowly the batter to the beaten whites while stirring 
constantly. Place a medium-sized frying pan with 1 tablespoonful 



PANCAKES, MUFFINS, GEMS, Etc. 545 

lard and butter over the fire ; as soon as hot pour in sufficient bat- 
ter to cover the pan, bake light brown on the under side, turn and 
bake the same on the other side. Slip the cake on to a hot plate, 
and finish the remaining batter the same way. 

Buckwheat Cakes with Yeast. — Put IV3 pint of buckwheat 
flour into a bowl, add Yg teaspoonful salt and V-j^ pint lukewarm 
water, add it to the batter, stir until perfectly smooth ; then cover 
the bowl, set it in a warm place overnight to rise. Next morning 
add 2 tablespoonfuls of molasses, and, if too thick, add a little cold 
water ; bake in small cakes on a hot well-greased griddle, and serve 
on hot plates as soon as done. Buckwheat cakes are also made of 
prepared flour, which is sold in 3- and 6-pound packages. A recipe 
will be found printed on each package. 

Muffins with Yeast. — Eoll some bread dough into round balls 
the size of an egg ; lay buttered muffin rings in a buttered pan, put 
the balls in the rings, cover the rings with another pan, lay a weight 
on top the pan, set in a warm place to rise till light, then place the 
pan with weights and all in a medium-hot oven, bake 30 minutes 
or till done. Then remove, and serve in a napkin. 

Graham Muffins. — Roll Graham bread dough into balls, and 
finish as in foregoing recipe. 

Graham Gems. — Mix 1 pint of Graham flour with 1 cup of 

wheat flour, add 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder, Yg tablespoonful lard, and Y2 teaspoonful salt, rub the lard 
and flour together, add Yg cupful milk, 1 egg, mix all together, 
fill into buttered gem pans, bake in hot oven, and serve in a 
•napkin. 

Gems.— Sift 1 pint of flour with lYg teaspoonful baking pow- 
der into a bowl, add Y2 teaspoonful salt, Y2 tablespoonful butter, rub 
the butter flne into the flour, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, Y2 pint of 
milk, the yolks of 2 eggs, and the beaten whites. Fill this into 
buttered gem pans, and bake in a quick oven. Serve in a napkin. 



546 PANCAKES, MUFFINS, GEMS, Etc. 

Oems with Yeast. — Sift 1 quart of flour into a bowl, add 1 
teaspoonful salt and 2 ounces of butter, rub the butter fine into the 
flour, add 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Break 1 yeast cake into a cup 
of warm milk, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and let it stand till the 
yeast rises to the surface ; then add it to the flour, add 1 cup of 
warm milk and 2 eggs, mix all well together ; set in a warm place 
till light, which will take from 2 to 3 hours. Thirty minutes before 
serving fill the batter into well-buttered gem pans half full, bake 
them in a quick oven, and serve in a napkin. 

Northumbrian Cakes. — One half pound flour, Vz teaspoonful 
salt, 3 ounces butter, '^|^ pound currants, V-j^ teaspoonful baking 
powder, 1 teaspoonful sugar. Sift flour, powder, and salt into a 
mixing bowl, add the butter, and chop it fine with a knife ; add the 
currants and mix with sufficient milk to make a soft dough ; roll 
out 1 inch in thickness, cut into 3-cornered pieces, and bake on a 
well-greased griddle, first on one side then on the other. When 
done slit them open, butter, and put again together. Serve at once, 
or they may be cut out into rounds with a biscuit cutter. The 
cakes are excellent for breakfast or tea. 

Scotch Scones. — One quart prepared flour, Yg cup of lard and 
butter mixed, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful sugar, nearly 2 cups milk. Sift 
flour and sugar into a bowl, add the lard and chop it fine with a 
knife in the flour, add the 2 beaten eggs and mix with the milk 
into a soft dough ; turn it out on to a floured board, roll out Yg inch 
in thickness, cut into 3-inch-square pieces, fold each in half to form 
3-cornered pieces. Bake on a hot griddle with a little lard on both 
sides light brown. Serve in napkin as soon as done. If plain flour 
is used, mix it with 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder. 

Biscuits. — Sift 1 pint flour with V-j^ teaspoonful baking pow- 
der into a bowl, add Ys teaspoonful salt, Y2 teaspoonful sugar, and 
1 heaping teaspoonful lard, Eub the lard and flour fine together, 
add Y2 pint of milk, and mix it with a knife into a paste ; turn the 
paste on to a fioured board, and roll it out with a rolling pin to 1 



PANCAKES, MUFFINS, GEMS, Etc. 547 

inch in thickness ; cut it into rounds with a small tin cutter. Mix 1 
well-beaten egg with 2 tablespoonfuls milk, brush the biscuits over 
with this, and bake in a quick oven till done ; then remove, and 
separate the biscuits ; serve in a napkin. 

Corn Muffins. — One pint yellow Indian meal, 1 pint of flour, 
3 ounces sugar, 2 ounces butter, 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, 1 of 
baking soda, 1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, and Yg teaspoonful salt. Sift 
the flour with the cream of tartar and salt into a bowl, dissolve the 
baking soda in a little boiling water, and stir it into the milk. Stir 
butter and sugar to a cream, add gradually the eggs, and next alter- 
nately the flour and milk, with the dissolved soda. Rub the inside 
of small muflan pans with lard, and flll each three quarters full 
with the above mixture ; bake in a very hot oven to a golden 
brown. If muffin pans are not handy, pour the mixture into square 
tin pans about 1 inch in thickness, and when done cut the cake into 
squares. Care must be taken to obtain only fresh Indian meal. 

Rice Muffins. — One cup boiled rice, 2 eggs, 1 cup milk, 74 cup 
melted butter, 2 teaspoonfuls sugar, sufiicient prepared flour to make 
a stiff batter ; mix all together. Put muffin rings on a hot griddle, 
lay into each one a little piece of lard and butter, fill them three quar- 
ters full with the batter, and bake slowly first on one side, then turn 
over and bake the other side ; they should be light brown and well 
done. Serve in a napkin. (May be baked in a medium-hot oven.) 

Hominy Muffins. — Prepare as rice muffins. 

Gluten (jems.— One pint gluten flour, 1 pint milk, 1 egg, 2 
teaspoonfuls baking powder mixed with the flour, Y^ teaspoonful 
salt ; mix all together ; put the mixture into buttered gem pans and 
bake in a quick oven. 

Oatmeal Gems. — Two cupfuls boiled oatmeal, 2 cupfuls milk, 
2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter, 2 teaspoon- 
fuls baking powder, and sufiicient flour to make a stiff batter. Stir 
butter and sugar to a cream, add the eggs, next the oatmeal, then 
the milk ; sift baking powder with 1 cup flour, add it to the batter 



54:8 PANCAKES, MUFFINS, GEMS, Etc. 

(if not stiff enough, add more flour) ; fill the mixture into buttered 
muflBn pans, and bake in a hot oven. Serve hot. 

Yienna Puffs. — Two cups sifted flour, 2 cups milk, Y2 ounce of 
butter, 4 eggs, a pinch of salt, and Y2 teaspoonful sugar. Sift flour, 
salt, and sugar in a bowl ; stir butter to a cream, add by degrees the 
yolks, then alternately the milk and flour, and last the whites beaten 
to a stiff froth. Fill the mixture into buttered cups about half full 
and bake in a quick oven. Serve at once in a napkin. If cups are 
not handy take muffin pans. Time for baking, about 15 minutes. 
This will make about 24 puffs ; they may be served for breakfast 
with butter or as a dessert with fruit or wine sauce. 

Plain Muffins. — One quart prepared flour, 1 teaspoonful sugar, 
2 cups milk, Y2 ounce of melted butter, 2 eggs. Sift flour, sugar, and 
salt together, add the milk, eggs, and butter. Mix the whole into a 
thick batter. Put mufl&n rings on a hot griddle, and Y2 teaspoonful 
lard into each one ; fill the rings half full with the batter. "When 
baked on one side turn them over gently with a pancake turner 
and bake till done. They should be of a delicate brown color. 
Serve hot for breakfast or tea. 

PopOYers. — Mix 2 ounces flour with Y2 pint of milk into a 
smooth thin batter, add the yolks of 2 eggs, Y2 even teaspoonful salt, 
Ys teaspoonful sugar, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, measured after 
melted. Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth, add the batter 
slowly to the whites while stirring constantly. Butter 8 gem pans 
and dust with flour, fill them half full with the preparation, and 
bake in medium-hot oven from 20 to 30 minutes. Serve in a 
napkin. 

German Puffs. — Place Y2 pint milk in a saucepan over the 
fire, with 2 ounces of butter ; as soon as it boils, add 4 ounces flour, 
stir until formed into a smooth paste; then remove, and when 
nearly cold, add the yolks of 4 eggs ; mix until smooth ; then add 
the whites beaten to a stiff froth ; stir until perfectly smooth. 
Divide this mixture into 8 small tin forms, which should be well 



PANCAKES, MUFFINS, GEMS. Etc. 549 

buttered and dusted with flour ; brush each over with beaten egg 
and bake in a hot oven from 25 to 30 minutes. Eemove, turn the 
puffs out of forms, and serve at once in a napkin. These puffs are 
nice for breakfast or lunch. 

Tea Puffs. — Four cups sifted flour, % yeast cake dissolved in 2 
cups of warm milk, Yg ounce of melted butter, 4 tablespoonfuls 
sugar, Y2 teaspoonful salt, and 1 egg. Make a hollow in center of 
flour, put in the egg and salt, add milk and yeast, and mix all well 
together ; add lastly the melted butter, and set in a warm place to 
rise. Half an hour before serving grease some muffin or patty pans, 
fill them three quarters full with the mixture, and bake in a quick 
oven ; or bake in a long or square pan ^nd cut it into squares. 

Breakfast Puffs. — One cup milk, 1 egg, 1 cup sifted flour, % 
teaspoonful salt. Mix all ingredients well together, fill the mixture 
into well-greased small patty pans or muffin pans, let them be half 
full ; bake in a quick oven about 10 minutes. Serve for breakfast. 

Waffles. — Sift 1 pint of flour with 1 teaspoonful baking powder 
into a bowl, add 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, Y2 teaspoonful salt, and 1 
tablespoonful butter ; rub the butter and flour together, add 1 pint 
of milk or cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, mix all well together ; beat 
the whites to a stiff froth and add to the batter. Place a waffle iron 
over a clear fire ; when hot, brush it over with melted butter, and 
drop into each square 2 tablespoonfuls of the batter. Bake to a fine 
golden color on each side, which will take from 2 to 3 minutes. 
Serve as soon as done. 

Quick Muffins. — Mix 1 cup of prepared flour with 1 teaspoon- 
ful butter, 1 egg, and Y2 cupful sour cream or milk, mix into a thick 
batter, place 6 lai'ge muffin rings on a hot griddle, put Y2 teaspoonful 
lard into each, fill each ring half full with the batter, bake over a 
moderate fire light brown, turn them over with a pancake turner, 
and bake the same on the other side ; serve in a napkin. The rings 
may be placed in a buttered baking pan and baked in the oven. 



BREAD, CAKES, Etc. 

Bread. — Sift 1 quart flour into a bowl, add Yg teaspoonful salt, 
1 teaspoonful sugar, and Yg ounce of lard ; rub the lard and flour 
together. Make a hollow in the center of flour ; break 1 yeast cake 
into a cup of lukewarm water, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and let it 
stand in a warm place until the yeast rises to the surface ; then 
pour it into center of flour, add 1 cup of lukewarm water, and mix 
the whole into a dough ; turn it on to a floured board, and knead 
till no longer sticking to the hands ; then return the dough to the 
bowl, and set in a warm place to rise to double its size. Butter a 
brick-shaped tin pan, mold the dough into a loaf, put it in the but- 
tered pan, let it rise to the top, then place it in a moderate oven, 
and bake 1 hour. When done, turn the bread out of pan, cover 
with a napkin, and, when cold, place it in a bread box. The same 
quantity of yeast will be sufficient for 2 loaves of bread, doubling 
all the ingredients excepting the yeast. 

Graham Bread. — Put 1 quart of Graham flour into a bowl, 
add Ys teaspoonful salt, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, and Yo tablespoonful 
lard ; rub the lard and flour together, make a hollow in center. 
Break 1 yeast cake into a cup of warm milk, add 1 teaspoonful 
sugar, set it in a warm place till it rises to the surface ; then pour 
the yeast in the center of flour, add Y2 cupful warm milk, and mix 
the whole into a stiff batter with a spoon ; cover, and let stand in a 
warm place till double its size. Then add sufficient wheat flour to 
knead into a soft dough, turn on to a floured board, and knead till 
ceasing to stick to the hands ; mold the dough into a loaf. Butter a 
brick-shaped tin pan, place the loaf in the pan, let rise to top of 

550 



BREAD, CAKES, Etc. 55I 

pan, place in a moderate oven to bake 1 hour. When done, turn 
the bread out of pan, cover with a napkin, and, when cold, place it 
in a bread box. 

Gluten Bread. — One quart gluten flour, Yg teaspoonful salt, 1 
teaspoonf ul butter, lYg cup warm milk or water, Yg yeast cake. Put 
flour, salt, and butter into a bowl, rub the butter fine into the flour, 
dissolve the yeast in a little of the milk, pour it in the center of 
flour, add the remaining milk, and work the whole into a dough ; 
turn it on to a floured board, and work the dough until it does not 
stick to the hands. Eeturn it to the bowl, cover, and let stand to 
rise to double its height ; then mold into a loaf, place in a buttered 
pan, let it rise again till very light, then bake in a medium-hot oven 
1 hour. 

Rye Bread. — Sift 1 quart of rye flour into a bowl, add 1 tea- 
spoonful salt, Y2 ounce lard. Break 1 yeast cake into a cup of luke- 
warm milk, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, let it stand in a warm place 
until the yeast rises to the surface. Eub flour and lard together, 
make a hollow in center, pour in the yeast, add 1 cup of warm 
milk or water, and mix this with a spoon into a thick batter, cover 
and set the bowl in a warm place to rise to double its size ; then 
add sufficient wheat flour to work it into a smooth, firm dough, 
turn on to a floured board and knead it till it does not stick to 
the hands. Then mold it into a long-shaped loaf, put into a long, 
shallow tin pan previously buttered ; let rise until it begins to 
crack ; brush over with cold coffee or milk, and bake 1 hour in a 
medium-hot oven. When done, remove and wrap the bread in a 
napkin until cold. The dough for rye bread should be firmer than 
for wheat bread ; otherwise it will spread in the pan and become too 
flat. The bread when done should have a fine golden-colored crust 
all around. 

Boston Brown Bread. — Put Y2 pint rye flour, Y2 pint Graham 
flour, Y2 pint Indian meal in a bowl, add Y2 pint water, 1 teaspoon- 
ful salt, Y2 pint molasses ; dissolve 1 teaspoonful baking soda in a lit- 



552 BREAD, CAKES, Etc. 

tie hot water, add it to the flour, mix all together, fill the prepara- 
tion in a buttered Boston-brown-bread form, set the form in a 
saucepan of boiling water, let the water reach half way up, cover 
and boil 4 hours. 

Baisin Bread. — Break 2 yeast cakes into 1 cup of lukewarm 
milk, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, set the cup in a warm place till the 
yeast rises to the surface. Sift 1 pint of flour into a bowl, add 1 
teaspoonful salt, 1 cup lukewarm milk, and the yeast, mix into a 
smooth batter ; cover and set it in a warm place to rise till very 
light, which will take about 1 hour. In the meantime stir 6 ounces 
butter with 6 ounces sugar to a cream, add 2 eggs and the grated 
rind of 1 lemon^ mix well together ; then add the sponge and suffi- 
cient flour to make a soft dough. Turn it on to a floured board ; add 
Ya cupful seedless raisins and 1 cupful fine-sliced citron ; work until it 
does not stick to the hands. Return the dough to the bowl, cover 
and let it rise in a warm place to double its size, then mold it lightly 
into a loaf, put into a round buttered form or in a form with a 
tube in center ; let it rise again to double its size, brush over with 
beaten egg mixed with a little milk, and bake 1 hour in a medium- 
hot oven, or till done. 

Tienna Rolls. — Break 2 yeast cakes into Yg cup of lukewarm 
milk, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, let stand till the yeast rises to the 
surface. Put 1 cup sifted flour into a bowl, add the yeast, and mix 
to a soft dough ; lay it into a bowl, pour over Ys gill warm milk, 
cover and let stand till very light (this is called leaven). In the 
meantime sift 3 pints flour into a bowl, add 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 
1 teaspoonful salt, and IY2 cupful lukewarm milk, and work into a 
firm dough ; put it on to a floured board and knead well ; then break 
the dough into small pieces, knead them again together into a smooth 
dough ; repeat this three times ; then add in small pieces 2 ounces of 
butter. Knead the dough five minutes longer, then add the leaven ; 
work until the dough is perfectly smooth and does not stick to the 
hands, adding more flour if necessary. Lay the dough in a warm 



BREAD, CAK:ES, Etc. 553 

bowl, cover and let rise to double its size. Then divide the dough 
in small parts 2 ounces in weight ; roll each- into a round ball, 
then roll them lengthwise and pointed at the ends, set them in 
buttered tin pans, cover and let rise till light. Make with a small 
sharp knife 2 small incisions on top of each ; mix 1 beaten egg 
with 3 tablespoonfuls milk, brush the rolls over with this, and bake 
in a medium-hot oven to a fine golden color and well done. Ke- 
move and serve hot in a napkin. 

HOrnchens. — Prepare and divide into 2-ounce pieces a dough 
the same as in foregoing recipe, roll with the hand each piece of 
dough into a round ball, and place them for Ys hour in a warm 
place. Then roll with a rolling pin each one into a 4-inch-square 
piece, brush over with melted butter ; start rolling up at one corner 
and roll toward the opposite corners, lay them on buttered tins in 
the form of a horseshoe ; cover and let rise till light, which will 
take from 30 to 40 minutes. Mix 1 beaten egg with 3 tablespoon- 
fuls milk, brush the hornchens over with this, and bake in a medi- 
um-hot oven to a delicate-brown color. 

Horns. — Prepare a dough the same as in foregoing recipe, roll 
it out Y2 inch in thickness, cut it out with a cutter in shapes like 
half moons, lay these in a buttered pan, not too close together, and 
let rise till light ; then brush over with beaten egg and bake light 
brown in a medium-hot oven. Mix the white of 1 egg with 1 table- 
spoonful milk and the same of sugar ; as soon as the horns are done 
draw them to front of oven, brush over with the egg mixture, 
sprinkle over some fine-chopped almonds and granulated sugar, re- 
turn to oven a few minutes. Eemove and serve when cold. 

Finger Rolls. — Prepare a dough the same as for Vienna rolls, 
divide, the dough into pieces of Y2 pound each, roll these into a 
rope and cut each into 10 equal-sized pieces, roll each into a round 
ball ; then roll out to the shape of small rolls 3 inches long and 
pointed at both ends. Lay into buttered finger pans, not too close 



554: BREAD, CAKES, Etc. 

together, let rise till light, brush over with beaten egg, and bake to 
a fine golden color iu a moderatly hot oven. 

Elsf elder Kranzel. — Break 2 yeast cakes in a cup of warm 

milk, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, let it stand until the yeast rises to 
the surface. Sift 1 pint of flour in a warm bowl, make a hollow in 
the center, pour in the yeast and 1 cup of warm milk, add 1 tea- 
spoonful salt, and mix the whole into a batter ; cover and set in a warm 
place to rise till light. Then stir 4 ounces butter with 4 ounces sugar 
to a cream, add by degrees 2 eggs and the tine-chopped peel of 1 lemon, 
stir this into the light sponge ; add sufficient flour to make a soft 
dough, turn the dough on to a board, and work till it ceases stick- 
ing to the hands. Return it to the bowl, cover and let rise to 
double its size ; then lay the dough on to a floured board and roll it 
out 1 inch in thickness, spread a layer of fruit marmalade over, 
and roll up like a music roll. Lay the roll in a buttered pan 
in the shape of a horseshoe, let rise again until very light, then 
brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a medium-hot oven till 
done. In the meantime mix the white of 1 egg with 1 tablespoon- 
ful milk and 1 tablespoonful sugar. When the kranzel is done 
brush this all over the cake and sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls 
granulated sugar, return it for a few minutes to the oven, and serve 
when cold. 

Hot Cross Buns. — Break 1 yeast cake into 1 cupful lukewarm 
milk, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, place the cup in a warm place till 
the yeast rises to the surface. Sift 1 cup of flour into a bowl, add 
the yeast and ^/^ teaspoonful salt, mix it into a sponge, cover and 
let stand in a warm place till light. Then stir 2 ounces butter 
with 2 tablespoonfuls sugar to a cream, add the grated rind of Yg 
lemon and 1 egg, stir this into the light sponge ; add 1 cupful well- 
washed and dried currants and sufficient flour to make a soft dough. 
Turn the dough on to a floured board and work till it ceases stick- 
ing to the hands, return to bowl, cover and let rise in a warm place 
to double its size. Then divide the dough into small egg-sized 



BREAD, CAKES, Etc. 555 

pieces, roll these with the palm of the hand into round balls, set in 
a buttered baking pan, not too close together, cover and let rise till 
light, brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a medium-hot oven 
till done. The dough may be rolled out to % inch in thickness and 
cut out the same as biscuits and laid Yg inch apart in buttered pans. 

Nuss Beugeln. — Break 1 yeast cake into 1 cupful lukewarm 
milk, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, set in a warm place till the yeast 
rises to the surface. Sift % pint of flour into a bowl, add Yg tea- 
spoonful salt and the yeast, mix all into a smooth batter, cover and 
let it rise in a warm place till light, about 40 minutes. Stir 2 
ounces butter with 2 ounces sugar to a cream, add 2 eggs, one at a 
time, and the fine-chopped peel of Ys lemon ; add the above sponge 
and sufficient flour to make a soft dough, turn it on to a floured 
board, and work until no longer adhering to the hands. Eeturn the 
dough to the bowl, cover and let it rise in a warm place to double 
its size. In the meantime prepare the filling as follows : Mix the 
yolks of 3 eggs with the grated rind of Y2 lemon, 4 ounces fine- 
chopped blanched almonds, and 4 ounces powdered sugar. As soon 
as the dough has risen to the desired lightness turn it on to a 
floured board, divide it into 2 parts, roll each part with a rolling pin 
separately out to Ys iiich thickness, lay 1 part aside, and cover the 
remainder with small portions of the above-mentioned almond fill- 
ing (about the size of a pigeon's egg) lYs inch apart ; then moisten 
the dough around the filling with a brush dipped in water. Lay 
over the other part of dough, press it around the filling with the 
finger, then cut them out with a round cutter either into round or 
half-moon shapes. Set in buttered shallow tin pans, let rise in a 
warm place till light, then brush over with beaten egg, and bake in 
a medium-hot oven to a fine golden color until done. Mix the white 
of 1 egg with 1 tablespoonful powdered sugar and 1 tablespoonful 
milk, brush this over the cakes as soon as done. Sprinkle over some 
fine-chopped almonds and a little granulated sugar, return for a few 
minutes to the oven, then remove and serve when cold. 



556 BREAD, CAKES, Etc. 

Butterkuchen. — Sift lYg cup flour in a bowl, add % tea- 
spoonful salt ; break 1 yeast cake into small pieces in Y^ cup of 
warm milk, add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and let stand until the yeast 
rises to the surface, then add it to the flour ; add 1 cup warm milk 
and mix it with a spoon into a smooth batter. Cover and set in a 
warm place to rise till very light. Then stir Y2 cup butter with Y2 
cup sugar to a cream, add 2 eggs (one at a time, stirring a few min- 
utes between each addition) ; add the grated rind of 1 lemon, the 
sponge, and sufficient flour to make a firm soft dough. Return the 
dough to the bowl, cover, set in a warm place until the dough has 
risen to double its size, then divide it into 3 equal parts ; the best 
way would be to weigh them. Do not handle the dough any more 
than may be helped. Eoll each part out with a rolling pin, about 
Y2 inch in thickness, put it into a long shallow buttered pan, set it 
for the third time in a warm place to rise to double its height ; 
then pour over each cake 2 ounces melted butter, sprinkle over each 
3 tablespoonfuls granulated sugar and a little cinnamon ; place in a 
hot oven, and bake to a fine color and well done. Then turn the 
butterkuchen out of pan. When cold cut each cake into half, lay 
the 2 halves together with the sugared sides facing each other, and 
then place them in a stone jar or cake box. 



CAKES, TOB.TEN, Etc. 

Jessaline Cake. — Half pound butter, Y2 pound flour, the 
of 8 eggs and 6 whites, 1 teaspoonful baking powder, the grated 
rind of 1 lemon, and Yg teaspoonful vanilla extract. Stir the butter 
to a cream, add the sugar, stir 30 minutes ; then add the yolks 
one at a time. Sift flour and baking powder together, beat the 
whites to a stiff froth, add the above preparation in small por- 
tions to the whites, add lastly the flour and Yg pound of fine-sliced 
candied fruit lightly dusted with flour, put the preparation in a 
buttered and paper-lined pan, and bake 1 hour in medium-hot oven. 
When done, remove the cake, let it rest for a few minutes, turn it 
out of pan, and when cold ice with wine glaze. (For wine glaze, 
see my book Desserts and Salads, recipe 924.) 

Bonsalina Cake. — Three quarters cupful butter, 1 cup powdered 
sugar, the whites of 6 eggs, 1 pint of flour, 1 heaping teaspoonful 
powder, Y4 cupful milk, 1 teaspoonful orange extract. Wash the 
butter in cold water, then place it in a bowl, add the sugar, and stir 
it to a light white cream ; sift the baking powder and flour together, 
add it gradually alternately with the milk, the beaten whites to the 
creamed butter and sugar, add the flavoring. Pour the mixture 
into 2 jelly tins (previously buttered and floured), spread it even 
with a knife, and bake in a medium-hot oven. When done remove 
and let them rest for a few minutes, then turn them out on to a 
paper, which should be dusted with powdered sugar ; when cold 
prepare a filling as follows : Boil 1 cup of sugar with Ys cupful 
water until it forms a thread between 2 fingers, then add 1 table- 
spoonful best rum. Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a still froth, add 

557 



558 CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 

a little pink coloring, pour in the boiling sugar while beating con- 
stantly, add Yg teaspoonful vanilla and 4 ounces fine-chopped pecan 
nuts ; spread this over the cake, put on the other layer, pour over 
first a pink sugar glaze, then a thin white glaze, and put a border of 
candied rose leaves around the edge. For glaze : Put 1 cup of sifted 
powdered sugar in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls water, stir over 
the fire until lukewarm ; add a little pink paste, pour it over the 
cake, leave the second icing white. 

Peanut Cakes. — Stir 4 ounces butter with Y2 pint of powdered 
sugar to a light white cream, add the yolks of 2 eggs and 1 whole 
egg, stir 5 minutes, flavor with the grated rind of 1 lemon ; then 
sift Y2 pound of flour with 1 teaspoonful baking powder, add the 
flour alternately with 1 gill of milk to the above mixture. Butter 2 
medium-sized jelly tins and sprinkle them with bread crumbs, 
divide the cake batter equal in the pans, smooth them over with a 
broad-bladed knife, and bake in a medium-hot oven till done. In 
the meantime shell 1 quart of peanuts and break half of them in 
pieces. Boil 1 cup of sugar with Ys cupful water until it begins to 
turn yellow ; have the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth, add 
slowly the boiling sugar while beating constantly, add 1 tablespoon- 
ful Jamaica rum or 2 of sherry wine, and set for a few minutes 
aside to cool. When the cakes are done remove, turn them on to a 
paper on which a little powdered sugar has been sprinkled. After 
a few minutes move them to keep from sticking to the paper ; when 
nearly cold lay 1 cake upside down on a plate, spread over one half 
the icing, cover with the broken peanuts, lay the remaining cake 
over it, cover with icing, and decorate with whole peanuts. 

Genoises. — Half pound flour, Ya pound sugar, Y2 pound butter, 
3 whole eggs, 2 yolks, the grated rind of 1 lemon. Put the 3 eggs 
and the 2 yolks in a bowl, beat them until light, add first the sugar, 
stir 10 minutes, then add the sifted flour ; next add slowly the 
melted butter, the lemon, and last the beaten whites of 2 eggs. 
Line a long shallow pan with buttered paper, spread the mixture in 



CAKES, TORTBN, Etc. 559 

the pan, and bake in a medium-hot oven. When done remove it 
from the oven, glaze it with wine glaze, and cut it into small pieces. 
Or cut it into fancy shapes, like half moons, etc., and ice them with 
pink and white icing. (See my book Desserts and Salads, recipe 
927.) 

Konig's Torte.— Chop fine 4 ounces blanched almonds, add 1 
teaspoonful cinnamon, a pinch of cloves and mace, 2 ounces fine- 
chopped peanuts, 2 ounces fine-cut citron, the grated rind and juice 
of Y2 lemon, 2 ounces seedless raisins, 2Y3 ounces bread crumbs ; 
moisten with wine or brandy. Stir the yolks of 7 eggs with 4 
ounces sugar to a cream, add the above ingredients and the 7 whites 
beaten to a stiff froth, bake in a paper-lined form ; when done and 
cold, glaze the cake with the following glaze : Mix 1 cupful sifted 
powdered sugar with 2 tablespoonfuls sherry wine, stir over the fire 
till lukewarm, then pour it over the cake. 

Hazelnut Torte a L'Emmita. — Two ounces blanched hazel- 
nuts, 2 ounces almonds, 6 ounces sugar, the yolks and the whites 
separate of 8 eggs, 2 ounces fine bread crumbs, 1 ounce sifted flour. 
Pound the nuts with the whites of eggs to a paste in a mortar, add 
the yolks and sugar, and stir Yg hour ; add the bread crumbs and 
beaten whites, and lastly the sifted flour. Bake in 2 paper-lined 
jelly tins to a delicate brown. Prepare filling as follows : Stir 3 
ounces butter to a light white cream, add the yolks of 2 eggs, one at 
a time, while constantly stirring ; next 2Y3 tablespoonfuls powdered 
sugar, 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract, IY2 ounce fine-cut citron, 3 
ounces fine-cut hazelnuts, 2 ounces fine-cut pistachio, and 3 to 4 
tablespoonfuls Madeira or sherry wine. Mix all well together and 
put between the 2 cake layers. Ornament the top with white 
icing, like lattice work. 

Schaumtorte a L'Annita. — Make 2 layers of cake as in fore- 
going recipe, and put whipped cream sweetened with sugar and 
mixed with fine-cut hazelnuts between the 2 layers. Cover the 
cake with a thick layer of the same cream, and set blanched hazel- 



560 CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 

nuts around the edge of cake. A little dissolved gelatine may be 
added to the cream. 

Brodtorte. — One half pound blanched almonds chopped fine, 
14 eggs, 1 pound powdered sugar, Y4 pound rye bread crumbs, y^ 
pound macaroons rolled fine, 2 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate, 2 
teaspoonfuls cinnamon, 1 nutmeg grated, the grated rind of 2 
lemons, Y4 pound fine-cut citron, Yg cup of brandy or rum. Cut rye 
bread into slices and dry in the oven, then roll fine with a rolling 
pin ; after rolling, weigh the crumbs, take Y4 pound and wet with 
the brandy. Put the sugar into a large wooden bowl, make a hollow 
in center, put in 1 yolk at a time and stir with a wooden spoon ; 
add gradually all the yolks, continue stirring for % hour ; then add 
by degrees while stirring constantly all the above ingredients, and 
last the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Line with buttered paper a 
large round cake pan about 3 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter, 
pour in the cake mixture and bake in slow oven. AVhen done put a 
chocolate icing over the top and sides of cake and place it for 5 
minutes in the oven. (For chocolate glaze, see my book Desserts 
and Salads, recipe 937.) 

Mandeltorte. — Scald Y2 pound sweet and lYs ounce bitter al- 
monds in boiling water, remove the brown skin, spread the nuts out 
on a paper, and when dry grind thera fine. Stir the yolks of 10 
eggs with IY4 cup powdered sugar for Y2 hour, add the grated rind 
of 1 lemon, 4 tablespoonfuls fine white bread crumbs, the grated al- 
monds, and lastly the whites of 8 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in 
a buttered and paper-lined form for 1 hour. Eemove from the oven, 
let stand a few minutes, then turn out of form, and when cold ice 
with following icing : Place 2 cups of sifted powdered sugar in a small 
saucepan, add 3 tablespoonfuls water, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 
stir it over the fire until lukewarm, then pour it over the cake ; deco- 
rate the top with blanched almonds or with pink candied almonds. 

Sandtorte. — Twelve ounces powdered sugar, 6 ounces potato 
flour or cornstarch, 6 ounces flour, 12 ounces melted and strained 



CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 561 

butter, the grated rind of 1 lemon, 12 eggs. Beat the 12 whites to 
a stiff froth, add by degrees first the yolks, then the sugar ; set the 
bowl in a pan of hot water and beat till warm ; then remove. Beat 
till nearly cold, strain the melted butter into a cup, continue the 
beating with the right hand, holding the cup with the butter in the 
left ; pour the butter gradually into the mixture. Butter a round 
cake pan, line it with tissue paper, pour in the cake mixture. 
Cover the bottom of a pie plate with salt, set the pan with cake 
mixture on to this, and bake 1 hour in an oven not too hot (if it 
browns too much, put buttered paper over). When done remove it 
from oven, let rest for a few minutes, then carefully turn out of 
pan, and when cold pour over following glaze : Put 2 cupfuls finely 
sifted powdered sugar in a small saucepan, add 4 tablespoonfuls 
orange Juice, place the saucepan over the fire, stir until lukewarm ; 
then pour it over the cake, and decorate with pink cinnamon straws. 

Angel Cake. — One and a half cup of granulated sugar, the 
whites of 11 eggs, 1 teaspoonful essence of vanilla, Yg pint flour, 1 
teaspoonful cream of tartar ; sift flour and cream of tartar 3 times, 
beat the whites to a stiff froth, add gradually the sugar, then the 
vanilla, and last the flour. Butter a cake mold and dust it with 
flour, pour in the mixture, and bake in a slow oven about % hour. 
Then pour the following glaze over it : Mix in a small saucepan 1 
cup of sifted powdered sugar with Yg gill of cold water, Ys gi^l 
sherry wine, and Ys teaspoonful vanilla extract ; stir over the fire 
until hot, then pour over the cake, and when dry cover it with 
the following icing : Mix the white of 1 egg with 6 ounces sifted 
powdered sugar, beat for 10 minutes, then spread over the cake, 
let dry in a cool place. 

St. Julia Sultana. — Prepare a fine paste as in recipe 663 of 
my book Desserts and Salads ; roll out Y4 inch in thickness, lay over 
it a tin plate, and cut the paste off close to the edge ; then lay the 
round piece of paste on to a round piece of buttered paper, lay the 
paper in a large shallow tin pan, decorate the edge Avith a border of 



562 CAKES, TORTEN, Etc, 

leaves cut from the remaining paste ; or put some pate-a-chou in a 
paper funnel and squirt a border around the edge 1 inch high; 
then squirt small rills toward the center of round, so that the sul- 
tana may be cut by these rills. Brush the whole over with beaten 
egg, and bake in a medium-hot oven till done. Then prepare a 
pate-a-chou as follows : Place a saucepan with 2 ounces butter, Yg 
pint milk, a pinch of salt, 1 tablespoonful sugar over the fire ; as 
soon as it boils add 4 ounces flour, stir until it loosens from the 
saucepan, then remove, and when nearly cold mix with the yolks of 
5 eggs and the beaten whites of 2 ; stir until perfectly smooth. 
Then put with a teaspoon small portions on a buttered tin, brush 
over with beaten egg, and bake in a quick oven till done. Eemove, 
and when cold fill with pink whipped cream and ice with pink or 
white icing ; then fasten with white of egg and sugar on to the edge 
of the above paste V/^ inch apart ; put between the cream cakes 
some candied cherries, pineapples, and plums ; spread over the sur- 
face strawberry marmalade and fill the center with whipped cream. 

Gateau a la Carey. — Two cups flour, % cup butter, 1 cup pow- 
dered sugar, 6 eggs, 1 teaspoonful lemon or vanilla extract. Wash 
the butter in several cold waters, and dry it in a napkin. Put but- 
ter in a mixing bowl and stir it with a silver spoon for 10 minutes ; 
add to this % the sugar, and stir 20 minutes more ; next add the 
yolks one at a time, stirring a few minutes between each addition. 
Beat the whites to a stiff froth ; add the lemon and the remaining 
Y2 cup sugar, beat for 5 minutes ; then add slowly by spoonfuls the 
above mixture while constantly beating with an egg beater. Sift 
the flour 3 times, stir it lightly through the mixture, bake in a well- 
buttered and paper-lined form 1 hour in medium-hot oven. If the 
cake should brown too much on top put a piece of buttered paper 
over. Eemove when done, when cold cover with a layer of pineapple 
marmalade, then ice it carefully with sugar glaze (see recipe 927 in 
my book Desserts and Salads), and decorate the tops with candied 
plums. 



CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 563 

Gateau a la Clarita. — One half cupful butter, 2 cups flour, 
with 1 heaping teaspoonful baking powder, 1 cup powdered sugar, 
the whites of 6 eggs, % cupful milk, 1 teaspoonful orange extract. 
Wash the butter in cold water, then place it in a bowl, add the 
sugar, and stir to a light white cream ; sift the baking powder and 
flour together, add it gradually and alternately with the milk and 
the beaten whites to the creamed butter and sugar, lastly add the 
flavoring. Pour the mixture into 2 previously buttered and floured 
jelly tins, spread it even with a knife and bake in a medium-hot 
oven. When done remove and let rest for a few minutes, then turn 
on to paper, which should be dusted with powdered sugar. When 
cold prepare a filling as follows : Boil 1 cup of sugar with Yg cupful 
water, then add 1 tablespoonful best rum. Beat the whites of 2 
eggs to a stiff froth, add a little pink coloring, pour in the boiling 
sugar while constantly beating, add Yg teaspoonful vanilla and 4 
ounces fine-chopped pecan nuts ; spread this over the cake, put on 
the other layer, pour over first a pink sugar glaze, then a thin white 
glaze, and put a border of candied rose leaves around the edge. 
For glaze put 1 cup of sifted powdered sugar in a saucepan, add 2 
tablespoonfuls water, stir over the fire until lukewarm, add a little 
pink paste, pour it over the cake, prepare the second icing the same 
way without the pink paste. 

Gateau a la Maseras. — Half a pound each of sliced candied 
fruit, pineapple, cherries, and plums ; Ys pound powdered sugar, Ys 
pound flour sifted 3 times with 1 teaspoonful baking powder, Y2 
pound melted butter, 7 eggs, and the rind of 1 lemon. Beat the 
7 whites to a stiff froth, and add by degrees the yolks, and then 
gradually the sugar, beating constantly with the egg beater ; set the 
bowl in a pan of hot water, beating till warm, then rem.ove and beat 
till nearly cold. Strain the melted butter into a cup, hold the cup 
in the left hand, pour the butter slowly into the mixture, then add 
the sifted flour, next the floured fruit ; pour into a paper-lined form, 
and bake in a slow oven 1 hour. Remove from oven, let it rest a 



564 CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 

few minutes, then turn it out, and when cold cover the top with a 
layer of pineapple marmalade. Put over the pineapples the follow- 
ing glaze : Mix lYg cupful powdered sugar with 3 tablespoonfuls 
orange juice, stir over the fire till lukewarm, pour it over the cake 
and sides ; then decorate with 8 candied plums. 

Biscuit a L'Elcita. — Four ounces powdered sugar, Yg pound 
almond paste, 4 ounces flour sifted with 1 teaspoonful baking pow- 
der, the yolks of 4 eggs and the whites of 8, 4 ounces melted butter. 
Stir the sugar and 4 yolks to a cream, add the almond paste in 
small portions, stir 15 minutes ; then gradually add the melted 
butter, stir 10 minutes. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, add the 
almond preparation by spoonfuls to the whites while constantly 
beating. Sift the flour and baking powder 3 times, add it slowly to 
the mixture, stir for a few minutes, then fill into a buttered and 
paper-lined form, and bake in a slow oven about 1 hour or till done ; 
then remove, let the cake rest for a few minutes, turn it out of form, 
and when cold ice it with following glaze : Put V-j^ cup of sifted 
powdered sugar in a small saucepan, add 3 tablespoonfuls sherry 
wine ; place the saucepan over the fire and stir till lukewarm, then 
pour it over the top and sides of cake. 

Charlotte de Russe.— Whip 1 pint of cream till stiff and 
place it for 1 hour on ice. Fit neatly a piece of writing paper in 
the bottom of a 1-quart charlotte-de-russe form. Split 12 lady 
fingers, cut them into even lengths and straight on sides. Mix 1 
tablespoonful white of egg with 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls powdered 
sugar to a thick icing, dip one side of each finger separately into 
the icing and fit them neatly on side of form. Flavor the cream 
with 1 teaspoonful vanilla and sweeten with 2 tablespoonfuls sifted 
powdered sugar. Fill the cream into the form. Cover the cream 
with fine slices of lady fingers ; set for 1 hour on ice. When ready 
to serve turn the charlotte de russe into a dish ; remove the paper 
and serve. 



CAKES, TOKTEN, Etc. 565 

Tanilla Kipfeln. — Six ounces butter, 3 ounces fine-chopped 
almonds, 3 ounces sugar. Work this into a firm paste, cut it into 
small pieces the size of a walnut, and form them into pyramids ; bake 
in slow oven. When done roll in vanilla sugar, and set on paper 
to cool. (See Vanilla Sugar in my book Desserts and Salads, 
recipe 113.) 

Pound Cake. — Half pound flour, Yg pound butter, Yg pound 
powdered sugar, 6 eggs, 1 teaspoonful lemon extract. Wash the 
butter in several cold waters and dry it in a napkin. Put butter in 
a mixing bowl and stir it with a silver spoon for 10 minutes, add to 
this half the sugar and stir 20 minutes more ; next add the yolks, 
one at a time, stirring a few minutes between each addition. Beat 
the whites to a stiff froth, add the lemon and the remaining Ys cup 
sugar, beat this for 5 minutes; then add slowly by spoonfuls the 
above mixture while beating constantly with the egg beater. Sift 
the flour 3 times and stir it lightly through the mixture, bake 
in a well-buttered and paper-lined form 1 hour in medium-hot oven, 
do not touch the pan while the cake is baking. If the cake should 
brown too much on top put a piece of buttered paper over. This 
will make a medium-sized cake. 

Economical Pound Cake. — One pound sifted flour mixed 
with 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 1 pound powdered sugar, Ys 
pound butter, 6 eggs, Ys cup milk, the juice and rind of 1 lemon. 
Stir butter and sugar to a cream, add by degrees the 6 yolks, then 
the lemon ; next add alternately the milk and sifted flour, and lastly 
the whites beaten to a stiff froth ; bake 1 hour in a large well-but- 
tered and paper -lined form in a moderate oven. 

Ringlets. — Rub the bottom of long shallow tin pans with butter 
and dust them with powdered sugar. Then prepare a cake mixture 
the same as for lady fingers, put it into a paper funnel and drop the 
mixture in the form of rings into the pan, dust over some sugar 
and bake in a cool oven. When done cut them even with a round 
cake cutter, also the inside so that the rings obtain a nice shape ; 



566 CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 

spread the under side with marmalade or jelly ; pour over this a wine 
glaze, sprinkle fine-chopped nuts over and let them dry a few min- 
utes in front of oven. 

Swiss Ringlets. — Mix 2 cups sifted flour with 5 tablespoonfuls 
sugar, % cup butter, the yolks of 6 eggs, and the grated rind of 1 
lemon into a stiff dough ; let rest on ice or cool place for 1 hour. 
Then roll the dough out on a floured pastry board Vs ot an inch in 
thickness. Cut it into rounds about 2 inches in diameter with a 
round scalloped cake cutter, then cut a small round piece from the 
center of each cake ; lay them into buttered tins, brush over with 
beaten egg, and bake in a medium -hot oven. 

Drop Cocoaiiut Cakes. — One half cup butter, Y2 cup sugar, 1 
cup flour, 3 eggs, 1 grated cocoanut mixed with 1 cup powdered 
sugar, 1 teaspoonful baking powder mixed with the flour. Stir 
butter and the Y3 cup sugar to a cream, add the yolks, one at a time, 
then beat the whites to a stiff froth, and add them with the flour to 
the mixture ; lastly, stir in the grated cocoanut mixed with sugar. 
Drop with a spoon into buttered pans, not too close together, and 
bake light brown. If the cocoanut batter should be too stiff to 
drop, add a few spoonfuls milk. 

Cocoanut Balls. — One pound fresh grated cocoanut, 1 pound 
powdered sugar, the whites of 3 eggs ; beat the whites to a stiff 
froth. Mix cocoanut and sugar together, add it to the beaten whites ; 
mix the whole together and shape with your hands into small round 
balls the size of a hickory nut ; lay them in buttered and paper- 
lined tins, and bake in a moderate oven. If the whites of eggs 
should not be sufficient to wet cocoanut and sugar, add a little 
more. They may also be shaped into small pyramids. 

Berlions. — Three cups sifted flour, 1 cup butter, 1 cup fine 
sugar, the grated rind of 1 lemon, the yolks of 8 hard-boiled eggs. 
Rub the yolks fine and press them through a sieve ; mix all the 
ingredients into a stiff paste. Eoll with the hands into thin rolls 
about Y2 inch in diameter, cut them slantingly into lengths of 3 to 



CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 567 

4 inches ; form into rings, dip with the one side first into the beaten 
white of egg, then into sugar, and bake in a slow oven. In serving, 
a little jelly may be put in center of each one. 

Apple Fruit Cake. — Two cups dried apples, IY2 cup sirup, 1 
pint milk, 1 cup sugar, Yg cup butter, 3 eggs, 1 pound raisins, 1 
pound currants, 2 teaspoonfuls of mixed spice — of cinnamon, of 
cloves, and of allspice — Yg nutmeg, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 1 
pound flour. Soak apples over night. Chop fine, put apples and 
siru23 over the fire, cook 2 hours, set aside to cool. Stir butter and 
sugar to a cream, add by degrees the eggs, then the apples, fruit, 
and spice ; sift the baking powder with the flour ; add flour and 
milk alternately, mix all together, pour into a paper-lined buttered 
form and bake in a moderate oven till done. 

Macaroons. — Half a pound of almond paste, the whites of 3 
eggs, Y2 pound powdered sugar, the grated rind of Ys lemon, or 1 
teaspoonful vanilla sugar. Add first 1 white to the almond paste 
and mix it with the hand till soft ; then add alternately the sugar 
and the remaining 2 whites, add the lemon, and fill the preparation 
into a paper funnel or pastry bag ; press small portions on to sheets 
of paper lYs inch apart, moisten each one with a little cold 
water ; sprinkle over some granulated sugar, lay the paper in tin 
pans, and bake in a moderatly hot oven to a delicate brown color. 
When done and cooled off, lay the paper on a wet board ; as soon as 
the moisture penetrates through the paper the macaroons loosen 
themselves ; remove, and put them in a tin box. 

Soft Cookies. — One large cup butter, IY2 cup sugar, 2 eggs, Yi 
cup sour cream, Ys teaspoonful baking soda dissolved in a little 
boiling water, then added to the sour cream. Stir butter and sugar 
to a cream, add the yolks, next a few spoonfuls sifted flour and the 
sour cream with soda, then the whites beaten to a stiff froth ; add 
sufficient flour to make a soft paste, roll out thin, sprinkle over 
some granulated sugar and a little grated nutmeg ; pass over this 



568 CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 

the rolling pin, cut into rounds with a cake cutter, and bake in 
well-buttered tins to a delicate brown. 

Cocoanut Cookies. — Three quarters of a cup of butter, 2 of 
sugar, 2 eggs, 1 cup grated cocoanut, 1 teaspoonful baking powder 
sifted with a little flour. Stir butter and sugar to a cream, add the 
eggs, the grated cocoanut, and powder ; use flour enough to roll out 
thin, cut into rounds, and bake in buttered tins to a delicate brown. 
Care must be taken not to get them too brown. 

Zamara Cake.— Stir 6 ounces butter with 10 ounces powdered 
sugar to a cream ; beat the whites of 6 eggs to a stiff froth ; add 
them alternately with 12 ounces prepared flour and Yg pint of cream 
to the butter and sugar, flavor with 1 teaspoonful vanilla sugar ; 
bake in 2 well-buttered and floured jelly tins in medium-hot oven. 
Filling : Boil 1 cupful sugar with Yg cupful water till it turns yel- 
low, then add 1 tablespoonful rum, Y2 teaspoonful vanilla sugar, 
beat the whites of 3 eggs to a stiff froth, add slowly the boiling 
sugar sirup while beating constantly, put this preparation between 
the layers ; sprinkle over Y2 cupful fine-chopped almonds, cover the 
top of cake with a layer of pineapple or apricot marmalade, then 
pour over a white sugar glaze ; put a border of candied apricots 
around the edge of cake. 

Cocoanut Comforts. — Mix together Y2 pound powdered 
sugar, Y2 pound fresh grated cocoanut, the beaten whites of 3 eggs ; 
drop small portions separately in well-buttered and paper-lined tins, 
and bake in medium-hot oven. 

Biscuit Kippel. — Stir the yolks of 4 eggs with Y4 pound pow- 
dered sugar to a cream, add Y* sifted flour, and last the whites 
beaten to a stiff froth. Put small bits in a paper-lined pan, sprin- 
kle over some sugar and fine-chopped almonds, and bake in a 
slow oven. 

Tanilla Waters. — One half pound sifted flour, 7 ounces butter, 
2 ounces sugar, 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract, the yolks of 3 eggs, Y4 



CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 569 

cup cream, % teaspoonful salt. Mix this into a soft dough, wrap it 
up in a napkin, and lay it for Yg hour in a cool place, then roll it 
out on a floured board Yg inch in thickness, fold it up so that 3 layers 
lay over one another, roll out again and fold up, repeat this once 
more, let it rest for Ys hour, roll it out again 3 times. Then roll it 
out thin and cut with a cake cutter into rounds, brush over with 
beaten egg, and make with the point of a knife small rent in it, 
bake in a hot oven. In place of vanilla any other kind of flavoring 
may be taken ; also fine-cut citron may be added to the mixture. 

Aniseed Wafers. — Mix Ys pound sifted flour with Ys tea- 
spoonful baking powder, 3 eggs, Ys pound powdered sugar, 2 tea- 
spoonfuls aniseed. Stir the sugar and yolks to a cream, add the 
aniseed and the beaten whites, last the sifted flour. Put with a 
teaspoon small cakes on a buttered pan, and bake in a moderate 
oven. 

Talmouses. — Place a saucepan with 1 pint milk over the fire, 
add lYs tablespoonful butter, a pinch of salt, and stir when it boils 
Ys pound sifted flour into it. Continue stirring until it loosens itself 
from bottom of saucepan. Transfer the paste to a dish ; when nearly 
cold mix it with 3 whole eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, and 2 ounces 
grated Parmesan cheese or fresh cream cheese. Koll out very thin 
some puff paste, cut out 12 or 15 rounds with a large cutter 3 inches 
in diameter, put a tablespoonful of the cheese mixture into each one, 
fold it over from 3 sides so the cheese mixture peeks out in the cen- 
ter, brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a medium oven. 
When done dust them with sugar and serve on a napkin. This 
mixture may be put into patty pans which have been lined with 
puff paste. 

Almond Cookies. — Scald Ys pound of sweet and 6 bitter 
shelled almonds ; remove the brown skin and pound the almonds 
fine with the white of an egg. Stir 1 tablespoonful butter with Ys 
pound sugar to cream ; add the grated rind of 1 lemon, a pinch of 
salt, 2 eggs, Y2 pound flour, and the pounded almonds. Work this 



570 CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 

into a stiff dough, roll it out thin, cut into fancy shapes with a 
cutter, and bake on buttered tins in a medium-hot oven. 

Schneelballen. — Sift 3 ounces flour into a bowl, add Y4 teaspoon- 
ful salt, a little grated lemon rind, 1 tablespoonf ul lemon juice, the 
yolks of 5 eggs, and sufficient cold water to make a firm dough ; 
let it stand a half hour, then roll out on a board very thin, cut into 
3-inch-square pieces, cut into each square 3 slits with a knife Yg 
inch from the sides ; bake in hot fat, like crullers, one at a time, 
remove with a skimmer, and dust with powdered sugar. In place 
of lemon, wine, rum, or any other kind of flavoring may be used. 
Another way is to prepare a dough of 4 ounces flour, 1 ounce 
butter, 3 yolks, V4 teaspoonful salt, and sufficient sour cream to 
make a dough ; then roll it out, fold it together, and set it Vs hour in 
a cool place ; again roll and fold it, let rest Ya hour, then finish the 
same as above. 

Hobelspane. — Prepare a dough the same as for schneeballen, 
roll it out on a board as thin as possible, cut into long strips Ys 
inch wide, roll them round the handle of a wooden spoon, slip into 
hot fat, and cook to a fine golden color ; remove with a skimmer, 
lay them on a dish, dust with powdered sugar, and serve with fruit, 
wine, or snow sauce. 

NOhi'ling. — Boil Y2 pint milk with 1 ounce butter, add Y2 tea- 
spoonful salt and 1 pint of flour, stir until a smooth paste is formed, 
remove from fire, let rest 20 minutes, then roll out on a board as 
thin as a blade of a knife, cut into 3-inch square pieces ; bake to a 
fine golden color, and serve with grape sauce, made as follows: 
Pick 1 pound of grapes from the stems, wash and place them in a 
saucepan over the fire ; add 1 cupful water, the thin peel of Ys 
lemon, 2 cloves, and a piece 'Of cinnamon ; cover and cook 10 min- 
utes ; press the sauce through a sieve into a clean saucepan, return 
to the fire, add 3 tablespoonf uls sugar and 1 tablespoonf ul Zwieback 
crumbs, boil 5 minutes ; serve either hot or cold. 



CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 5Y1 

Kolatschen. — Eub the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs fine, add 2 
ounces powdered sugar, 4 ounces flour and 4 ounces butter, a pinch 
of salt, 1 raw yolk, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon- 
ful rum ; mix all the ingredients well together, roll out on a board 
Ys inch in thickness, cut it into rounds, cover them with meringue, 
sprinkle over some fine-chopped almond dust with powdered sugar, 
and bake in a slow oven. *■ 

Krapfeln. — Stir the yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs to a cream 
with 4 ounces butter, add 4 ounces sugar, the grated rind of Yg 
lemon, and 5 ounces flour ; work the whole into a dough, roll out 
Ys iTich in thickness, cut into rounds with a cake cutter, and bake in 
medium-hot oven. These cakes, when cold, may be iced with sugar 
glaze (see recipe 927, in my book Desserts and Salads), or they may 
be cut into half moons, and when cold put 2 together with marma- 
lade between them and then glazed. 

Cream Cakes. — Place a saucepan with Ys pii^t milk and 2 
ounces butter over the fire ; as soon as it boils add 4 ounces flour, 
stir until the contents have formed into a smooth paste, then re- 
move, and when nearly cold add the yolks of 5 eggs, stir until 
smooth, then add the beaten whites of 3 eggs. Put the preparation 
in a pastry bag, and press out upon a buttered baking pan small 
portions the size of an egg, brush over with beaten egg, and bake 
in a medium- hot oven ; when done cut them open on one side 
and fill them with vanilla cream (139, in my book Desserts and 
Salads). 

l^clairs.— Put a No. 3 tube in a pastry bag, fill in the same prepa- 
ration as for cream cakes, press it into a buttered tin 3 inches long 
and Ys inch wide, brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a me- 
dium-hot oven ; when done cut them open on the side, fill them 
with vanilla cream, and glaze them with chocolate. 

Crullers. — One cup sugar, 1 cup milk, 4 ounces butter, 2 whole 
^SS^^ 1 yolk, and the grated rind of 1 lemon. Stir butter and 
sugar to a cream, add lemon and the eggs, one at a time, stirring a 
•67 



572 CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 

few minutes between each addition ; then add alternately the milk 
and sufficient prepared flour to make a stiff dough ; roll it out on a 
floured board Y4 inch in thickness, cut with a tin cutter into rounds ; 
cut a small piece from the center of each, which will give them the 
form of a ring ; drop into hot fat, and fry to a fine golden color. 
Eemove the crullers with a skimmer, lay for a few minutes on 
blotting or brown paper ; remove to a dish, dust with powdered 
sugar, and serve either hot or cold. In place of prepared flour, 
plain flour may be used ; with 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. 

Frencli Crullers. — Boil 1 pint milk with Yi pound butter, stir 
in while the milk is boiling, 1 pint of sifted flour, continue stirring 
until it has formed into a smooth paste and loosens itself from 
bottom of saucepan. When done, transfer the paste to a dish ; 
when nearly cold, mix with the yolks of 8 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls 
sugar, and lastly the whites beaten to a stiff froth ; fill this into a 
syringe and squirt it into hot lard. Fry light brown. When done, 
pile them high on a dish and dust with powdered sugar. 

Berliner Pfannkuclien.— One pound sifted flour, V4 pound 
butter, the yolks of 8 eggs, 1 tablespoon ful sugar, Y4 teaspoonful 
salt, 1 yeast cake, and IY2 cup warm milk. Put flour, salt, and 
sugar into a bowl, make a hollow in the center, dissolve the yeast in 
Y2 cup milk, pour it in center of flour. Melt butter in the remain- 
ing milk, add it to the flour with the yolks, and mix all into soft 
dough. Cover with a napkin, and set in a warm place to raise to 
double its height. Then put half of the dough on to a warm floured 
board, roll it out about Y4 inch in thickness and cut with a cake 
cutter into rounds, brush over with beaten egg, put in the center of 
half of them a teaspoonful fruit jelly or marmalade. Cover them 
with the remaining rounds, press the edges together, and cut out 
once more with a smaller cutter. Then turn them over on to a 
board with a floured napkin under them. Cover with a warm nap- 
kin and form the remaining dough the same way (this must be 
done quick so that the dough does not get cold). After 30 minutes 



CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 573 

they should have risen to double their height. Then fry them in 
hot lard the same as crullers, not too many at once. Eemove them 
with a skimmer on to blotting paper, dust with powdered sugar, and 
serve at once on a napkin. 

Banana Fritters. — Put 1 cup of sifted prepared flour in a 
bowl, add Yg tablespoonful butter, rub the butter and flour together ; 
add Y2 cup of milk, 1 tablespoonful sugar, and the yolks of 2 eggs. 
Beat the whites to a stiff froth, add the batter gradually to the 
whites. Peel 6 bananas, dip each one separately into the batter, 
and fry in deep hot fat to a golden color (if the batter should be too 
thick, add more milk) ; remove, and lay them on paper, then serve 
on a hot dish with fruit sauce, described below. 

Fruit Sauce. — Place a small saucepan with V3 cupful water 
and Ya cupful sugar over the fire, boil 3 minutes ; add Y2 cupful cur- 
rant jelly, boil a few minutes ; then strain into a bowl, add 1 gill of 
sherry wine and Ys cupful preserved cherries. 

German Kolatschen. — Place a saucepan with Y2 pi^it of milk 
over the fire, 2 ounces butter, lYs tablespoonful sugar, and a pinch 
of salt ; as soon as the milk boils sprinkle in 4 ounces sifted flour 
while stirring constantly; continue the stirring until formed into a 
smooth paste and loosening itself from bottom of saucepan ; transfer 
it to a dish, and mix, when cold, with 1 whole egg and the yolks of 4. 
Take Y2 teaspoonful and drop it lightly on buttered tins 2 inches 
apart, brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a moderately hot oven. 
When done, brush over the top of each with a mixture made of 1 
egg mixed with 1 tablespoonful milk and 1 of sugar ; sprinkle over 
a few chopped almonds, then return to oven a few minutes. Ee- 
move, and when cold cut an opening on the side of each and fill 
with following filling : Whip 1 gill of sweet cream till thick, set on 
ice Ya hour, then mix with Ya cup of fresh mashed strawberries, add 
1 tablespoonful sifted powdered sugar. They can be served as a 
dessert or for afternoon teas or Jcaffeehlatsches. 



5Y4 CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 

Molasses Cake. — Three quarters of a cup of lard or drippings, 
3 cups prepared flour, 1 cup molasses, 1 cup sour milk or black 
coffee, 1 heaping teaspoonful ginger, 1 even teaspoonful cloves, 1 
teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful mace, 3 eggs, 1 cup brown 
sugar. Stir sugar and lard to a cream, add the eggs one at a time, 
then the molasses and spice, next alternately the flour and milk. 
(The flour should be measured before sifted.) Pour the mix- 
ture into a long buttered pan and bake in moderate oven till 
done. If plain flour is used, mix it with 2 teaspoonfuls baking 
powder. 

Gingerbread. — One quart flour, V/s cup molasses, 2 teaspoon- 
fuls ginger, Yg cup melted butter, 1 cup milk, Yg teaspoonful salt, 1 
teaspoonful soda diluted in a little hot water. Mix all the ingredi- 
ents together, pour into a well-buttered and floured 2-inch-deep 
baking pan, and bake in medium-hot oven till done. 

New Year's Cakes.— Four ounces sugar, 4 ounces flour, 2 
ounces butter, 2 eggs, Ya cup milk, 1 teaspoonful aniseed, 1 tea- 
spoonful fine-cut lemon peel, 2 pounded cardamom pods. Put the 
butter in a bowl, set it for a few minutes on the stove to soften the 
butter, then add the sugar, and stir the two to a cream ; add the 
eggs, the cardamom seeds, lemon, aniseed, and milk ; add last the 
flour. Mix all well together, and bake in following manner : Put a 
wafer iron over the fire ; when hot, brush it over with melted lard, 
put a teaspoonful of the preparation in center of iron, and bake 
light brown; then remove from the iron and instantly roll up. 
When cold, put away in a tin cake box. 

Molasses Coffee Cake. — One cup butter, 2 cups brown sugar, 1 
cup molasses, 1 cup cold coffee, 5 cups sifted flour, 1 pound seedless 
raisins, 1 pound currants, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, the same of cloves, 
mace, and grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful baking soda, 3 eggs. Stir 
butter, lard, and sugar to a cream, add the eggs one at a time, stirring 
a few minutes between each addition. Put soda in a cup, pour a 
little boiling water on it, stir until dissolved ; add it to the molasses ; 



CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 575 

next add the sifted flour, the coffee, and molasses alternately to the 
above mixture ; then add spice, and lastly the raisins. Butter a 
large dripping pan, dust with bread crumbs, pour in the mixture, 
spread it smooth, and bake 1 hour. 

Peppernuts. — One and a half quart of molasses, 1 pound 
brown sugar, Yg pound butter, Yg pound lard, 1 teaspoonful ground 
cloves, 2 of cinnamon, 2 of ground aniseed, Y4 pound chopped 
citron, Y2 pound chopped almonds, 2 ounces of whole coriander 
seeds, 1 grated nutmeg, 4 teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, 2 of bak- 
ing soda dissolved in a little boiling water ; then stir into the mo- 
lasses 3 eggs and flour enough to make a stiff dough ; mix the 
cream of tartar with the flour. Stir lard, butter, and sugar to a 
cream, add the eggs one at a time, stirring a few minutes between 
each addition ; next add the spice, citron, and nuts ; then add alter- 
nately the molasses and sifted flour. Work this with the hands into 
a stiff smooth dough. Shape it into long rolls about 1 inch in di- 
ameter and cut it into slices about Y* iiich in thickness ; set these 
on to well-greased tin pans and bake light brown in a quick oven. 
When all are done and cooled off put them in a tin cake box; they 
will keep for a long time. They can also be rolled out very thin and 
cut into fancy shapes, then brushed over with beaten egg to which 2 
tablespoonfuls milk has been added. 

Melrose Pudding. — Whip 1 pint cream till stiff and place for 
1 hour on ice ; then mix with Ys cupful sifted powdered sugar 1 
teaspoonful vanilla ; add of candied fruit 3 plums, 1 slice of pine- 
apple, 10 cherries, 3 marrons glace all cut into fine slices. Put 3 
tablespoonfuls of the cream into a bowl and color it to a delicate 
pink with coloring paste. Have a 3-pint melon mold packed in 
cracked ice, put the pink cream in the center of form ; then fill in 
the white cream. Close the form, and place a strip of buttered 
paper around the edge of cover ; then pack in ice and rock salt, let 
remain 4 hours. Shortly before serving, remove the form, rinse 
with cold water, take off the buttered paper, hold the form for a 



576 CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 

secoud in hot water, wipe it dry, turn the pudding on to a dish, 
and serve. 

Nesselrode Pudding. — Boil % pound large chestnuts in water 
20 minutes, drain and remove the shells and brown skin, return the 
nuts in saucepan to the fire, cover with milk and cook till tender ; 
remove from fire, mash fine, and rub through a coarse sieve. Put 
the chestnut puree in a saucepan, add the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 
pint of cream, 1 gill of pineapple sirup, 6 ounces sugar, place the 
saucepan over the fire, and stir till nearly boiling ; then instantly 
remove, add 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract, and set aside to cool. 
Place a small saucepan with 1 pint of water over the fire, add lYg 
ounce seedless raisins and lYg ounce fine-cut citron, cook 5 minutes; 
then drain, and lay the fruit a few minutes on a towel to dry. Put 
the fruit into a bowl, add 4 ounces fine-cut candied cherries, lYg cup- 
ful fine-cut preserved pineapples, and 1 gill of maraschino, allow to 
steep for 2 hours. Place the chestnut puree in a freezer and freeze 
till it begins to thicken, then add the fruit, freeze a few minutes ; 
next add Yg pint of whipped cream, freeze until firm. Fill the 
cream into a form with a tube in the center, put on the cover, tie 
with a string, and paste a piece of buttered paper around the edge 
of cover. Put a layer of fine-chopped ice in an ice-cream pail, 
sprinkle over Y2 pi^t of rock salt ; on top of this place the form, fill 
the space between form and pail alternately with ice and rock salt ; 
cover the form completely with ice and salt ; cover the top with 
paper, and place the pail in a cool place for 2 hours. Shortly 
before serving take out the form, rinse with cold water, remove 
paper, set the form for a second in hot water, then wipe the form 
dry. Turn it on to a dish and serve. 

Biscuit Teutonia. — Put the yolks of 4 eggs in a double boiler, 
add lYa tablespoonful sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls maraschino, and 1 
tablespoonful Swiss kirsch ; or add 2 tablespoonfuls Madeira or 
sherry wine. Place it over the fire and stir for 5 minutes or until 
it begins to thicken ; then remove, place it in ice water, and when 



CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 577 

cold add 1 pint whipped cream, 2 ounces powdered sugar, and 1 tea- 
spoonful vanilla. Cover and let rest 10 minutes ; then fill the prep- 
aration into 9 paper cases, and sift evenly over the surface 2 ounces 
finely powdered macaroons. Put the paper boxes into a square 
biscuit-glace box, and cover it tightly. Place the box in an ice- 
cream tub, cover the entire form with cracked ice and rock salt, and 
let freeze V-j^ hour. 

Biscuit (xlace. — Prepared the same as Biscuit Teutonia, omit- 
ting the macaroons. 

Plain Ice Cream.— Sweeten 1 quart of sweet cream with 1' 
cupful sugar and flavor with 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla extract, then 
freeze according to direction in recipe 264 of my book Desserts 
and Salads. 

Boiled Meringue. — Place a saucepan with 1 pound granulated 
sugar and Yg pint cold water over the fire, boil the sugar to the 
fifth degree (see my book Desserts and Salads, recipe 941). Beat 
the whites of 5 eggs to a stiff broth, add slowly while constantly 
beating the boiling hot sugar, then remove the e^g beater. Place 
the bowl with meringue in ice water, stir for a few minutes with a 
wooden spoon, add Yg teaspoonful vanilla extract, cover and let 
stand 10 minutes. 

Sahnen Baisses. — Prepare a meringue the same as in fore- 
going recipe ; lay a large sheet of white paper on a baking tin, put 
the meringue with a tablespoon on the paper in the shape of an 
egg IY2 inch apart, dust with powdered sugar, and bake in a slow 
oven about Y2 hour. Eemove, and when cold lay the paper on a 
wet board ; after a few minutes take the shells carefully from the 
paper, press them with the finger to give a perfect shell shape, re- 
turn to a cool oven, leaving the door ajar, to dry thoroughly ; re- 
move and put away in a paper box. These shells may be filled with 
marmalade, jelly, ice cream, or whipped cream, and served as a 
dessert. 



578 CAKES, TORTEN, Etc. 

Meringue. — Sift Y2 pound powdered sugar on a plate, put the 
whites of 3 eggs into a bowl, add a few grains of salt, and beat 
until the whites are stiff ; then add 1 tablespoonf ul of the sifted 
sugar, beat 1 minute longer ; remove the beater, add gradually the 
remaining sugar while stirring the whites lightly with a spoon. 
Flavor with Yg teaspoonful vanilla sugar or grated lemon rind. 

Lady Fingers. — Four eggs, the weight of 4 eggs in sugar, the 
weight of 2 in flour. Stir sugar and yolks with Yg teaspoonful 
lemon juice for 20 minutes, beat the whites to a stiff froth, add 
slowly the yolks and sugar to the whites, then the sifted flour. Put 
the preparation into a paper funnel with a tube at the end ; lay 
2 large sheets of white paper on a table, mark it off with a pencil 
the size of the lady fingers ; then till the preparation in a paper 
funnel, press the batter on to the paper in straight rows of 7* inch 
wide and 4 inches long about 1 inch apart ; place in a pan, and bake 
in a slow oven. Dust them with powdered sugar and bake in a slow 
oven to a fine golden color, remove, and when cold lay the paper on 
a wet table to loosen the fingers. Put 2 and 2 together and serve. 

Jessina Sultana. — Sift Yg pound of flour into a bowl, make a 
hollow in center, put in the yolks of 2 eggs, 6 ounces butter, the 
fine-chopped peel of Y2 a lemon, and 2 tablespoonfuls cream ; mix 
all into a firm paste. Mix 4 ounces almond paste with the whites 
of 2 eggs, add it to the above paste, work it for 3 minutes on a 
board, then place it for 1 hour on ice; then roll out the paste Y2 
an inch in thickness, cut it out into a round piece, lay it on but- 
tered paper, place on a baking sheet, brush over with beaten eggs, 
and bake to a fine golden color in a medium hot oven; remove, and 
when cold put 1 quart fresh strawberries in the center, sprinkle 
over 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, cover with 1 pint whipped 
cream, sweeten with sugar, and flavor with vanilla; fill 9 meringue 
shells with pink whipped cream, lay them around the edge in the 
form of a border, set 3 shells on top the cream, and serve. 



PUNCHES. 

Roman Ice Punch. — One quart sugar sirup, the juice of 5 
lemons and 4 oranges, the thin peel of 3 lemons and 4 oranges, an 
Italian meringue of 4 eggs, Yg pint rum, Yg pint champagne. For 
the sirup dissolve 1 pound sugar in 1 pint water, add the juice of 
4 lemons and 4 oranges, cover and let stand for 5 minutes ; then 
remove the peel, strain the sirup through a sieve, weigh it with the 
sugar scale to 20 degrees ; put it into the freezer and work it for 15 
minutes. Next prepare the meringue. Put ^4 pound sugar with 1 
teaspoonful vanilla extract and Y2 pint water over the fire and boil 
the sugar to the 5th degree (for sugar boiling see Desserts and 
Salads, recipe 941). In the meantime whip the whites of 4 eggs to 
a stiff froth, let the sugar sirup cool off a little, then pour it slowly 
to the eggs while beating constantly. Half an hour . before serving 
put the meringue into the freezer, work it for 10 minutes ; cover 
and let it stand 10 minutes. Before serving take out the paddle, 
put in the rum and champagne, mix it well together and serve it in 
small glasses. In place of lemon and oranges, pineapple sirup may 
be taken. 

Imperial Ice Punch. — Mix 1 quart pineapple sirup, 2 tea- 
spoonfuls vanilla extract, the juice of 4 oranges and 2 lemons, the 
thin peel of 1 orange and 1 lemon, a pinch of ground mace, cover 
and let stand 5 minutes ; then remove the peel, put the sirup into 
the freezer, work it for 15 or 20 minutes ; then add Italian me- 
ringue the same as in foregoing recipe. Shortly before serving add 
2 gills of maraschino, the same of kirsch, Curapoa, and champagne. 
Serve in glasses. 

579 



580 PUNCHES. 

Royal Pimcli, No. 1. — Pare and grate a large ripe pineapple ; 
mix the pulp with 2 pounds sugar and Yg cup water. When the 
sugar is melted add 1 bottle fine claret, 1 bottle Johannisberger, 1 
bottle champagne, Yg bottle arrack, Y2 bottle maraschino, the juice 
of 4 lemons and 4 oranges, and the peel of 1 orange. Mix this well 
together and let it stand 5 minutes, then strain it through a sieve ; 
fill the punch into bottles, cork them tightly, and lay them a short 
time on ice before serving. 

Royal Punch, No. 2. — Pare and grate 1 large ripe pineapple, 
add the juice of 20 sweet oranges, 2 pounds sugar dissolved in Y2 
pint of cold water, 1 bottle arrack, 1 of Madeira, 2 of Moselle, 1 of 
old Khine wine, 1 of Capavine, 1 of white Bordeaux, Y2 bottle red 
Burgundy wine. Mix all well together, strain and bottle it, cork 
tightly, and put in cellar until wanted. Lay the punch on ice for 
an hour before serving. None but the best wines should be used 
for this punch. 

Regent Punch. — Put into a large porcelain bowl 1 pound 
sugar, Y2 piiit strong tea, the juice of 2 lemons and 4 oranges, 
Y2 pint brandy, Y2 V^^^ Jamaica rum, 1 bottle champagne. Stir 
until the sugar is dissolved, strain into a punch bowl and put a 
large piece of ice in center ; or bottle it and before serving lay the 
bottles for a few hours on ice. 

Hot Punch. — Dissolve 1 pound sugar in IY3 quart of cold 
water and boil 5 minutes ; add the juice of 1 lemon and 4 oranges 
and a little thin peel of both, let boil up ; remove from fire, take 
out the peel, add Y2 pi^t hot strong tea and Y2 pi^^^ good rum; 
strain through a fine sieve into a punch bowl and serve either hot 
or cold. 

Rum Punch. — Put 1 pound sugar and IY2 quart cold water 
into a bowl, set this in a vessel of hot water, cover tightly and let 
it stand in a warm place for 1 hour. Shortly before serving boil the 
sirup until clear ; add the strained juice of 1 lemon and 4 oranges ; 
let boil up ; remove it from the fire, add a little lemon peel, a piece 



PUNCHES. 581 

of vanilla bean, Yg pint strong tea, and Y2 piii^ good rum ; strain into 
a punch bowl and serve. 

Claret Punch, Hot. — Boil 1 pound sugar witb IY2 pint water 
to a sirup ; add the juice of 2 lemons with 1 bottle claret ; add a 
piece of cinnamon and 4 cloves. Let it get scalding hot, strain and 
serve. 

Claret Punch, Cold. — Dissolve 1 pound sugar in lYs pint 
cold water, add the juice of 2 lemons and the rind of 1 ; let it stand 
5 minutes ; remove the rind, add 1 bottle claret, and strain into a 
punch bowl. Cut 1 orange into slices, remove the pits, put the 
slices into the punch, and also some fine-cut pineapple pieces. Put 
a large piece of ice in the center and serve. 

Lemon Punch. — Boil 1 pound sugar with 1 pint of water; 
add the peel of 1 lemon and the juice of 3 ; boil it to a sirup. 
When cold add 2 bottles white wine, Yg of a quart of arrack, and 1 
pint of tea, strain through a napkin. Heat it to a boiling point 
and serve. 

Strawberry Punch. — Wash and drain 2 quarts ripe strawber- 
ries, put into a porcelain bowl, sprinkle over 1 pound sugar ; add 3 
bottles Moselle wine and 2 bottles of Bordeaux. Cover and place 
the punch for several hours on ice. Shortly before serving stir the 
punch for a few minutes, pour into a punch bowl, and serve. In 
place of Bordeaux, 2 bottles of Ehine wine may be taken, or add 1 
bottle of champagne. 

Orange Cardinal. — Put 1 pound loaf sugar into a large porce- 
lain bowl, pour over 1 bottle Ehine wine. When the sugar is 
melted, put in the thin peel of 2 oranges, let lay 5 minutes, then re- 
move the peel ; add the juice of 12 oranges, 1 bottle Rhine wine, 
and 1 bottle champagne. Strain the cardinal through a fine sieve, 
cork bottles tightly, and set in a cool place. 

Pineapple Cardinal. — Pare and grate a large ripe pineapple 
into a large porcelain bowl, add 1 pound sugar, 2 bottles Rhine 



582 PUNCHES. 

wine, and 1 of St. Peray wine. Let stand until sugar is melted, 
then bottle, cork, and set in cool place. Put the bottles on ice 
before serving. 

Cold Cream Puncli. — Place a porcelain kettle over the fire 
with 4 pounds sugar, 4 quarts boiling water, 4 quarts arrack, the 
juice of 8 lemons, and a fine-cut small vanilla bean ; let come to a 
boil, then add while beating constantly 3 quarts milk or cream. 
Eemove from the fire, cover the kettle with a cloth, and let it stand 
for 2 hours ; then filter and fill in bottles, cork tightly, and set away 
for further use. 

Claret Punch. — Put into a large tumbler 2 teaspoonfuls pow- 
dered sugar, 1 slice of lemon, 2 of orange, and 2 gills claret wine ; 
fill the tumbler with fine-cracked ice, add some strawberries (if in 
season), and sip through a straw. 

Sherry Punch. — Put into a large tumbler some fine cracked 
ice ; mix a wineglassful sherry wine with 1 heaping teaspoonf ul 
powdered sugar, add 3 slices of lemon and 2 of orange ; carefully 
remove the pits. Pill into the tumbler, and if berries are in season, 
add a few strawberries or raspberries. Sip through a straw. 

Port-wine Punch. — Prepare the same as sherry punch. 

Tanilla Punch. — Add to 1 gill of brandy 1 tablespoonful 
powdered sugar, Y4 teaspoonful vanilla extract, 1 teaspoonful lemon 
juice. Fill the tumbler with fine-cracked ice, and sip through a 
straw. 

Champagne Punch. — Put 1 bottle of champagne into a punch 
bowl, add 3Y2 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, 
1 orange cut into slices and freed from the pits, 3 slices of pineap- 
ple, and 2 tablespoonfuls raspberry sirup. Serve in champagne 
glasses with fine-cracked ice. 

Brandy Punch is made the same as gin punch ; take brandy in 
place of gin, and add a few strawberries or raspberries if in season. 
Sip it through a straw. 



PUNCHES. 583 

Eldorado Punch. — Two tablespoonfuls brandy, 1 of Jamaica 
rum, 1 of Bourbon whisky, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sugar, 1 slice 
of lemon. Fill the tumbler full of cracked ice, add a few pieces of 
orange or strawberries if in season. Sip through a straw. 

Gin Punch, Cold. — Put % gill of gin and the same quantity 
of water in a large tumbler, add 1 tablespoonful raspberries and 2 
tablespoonfuls gum sirup, 1 slice of orange, 1 of pineapple, and 1 of 
lemon. Fill the tumbler with fine-cracked ice, and sip through a 
straw. 

Milk Punch. — Put into a large tumbler 2 teaspoonfuls pow- 
dered sugar, 1 tablespoonful raspberry sirup, 1 of Cura9oa, 2 table- 
spoonfuls Jamaica rum, 1 teaspoonful brandy, 1 tablespoonful fine- 
cracked ice. Fill the tumbler with milk, grate over the top a 
little nutmeg, and serve. 

Milk Punch_, Plain. — Put 1 wineglassful brandy in a tumbler, 
add 1 tablespoonful powdered sugar, also a little cracked ice ; fill the 
tumbler with milk, grate over the top a little nutmeg, and serve. 

Milk Punch, Hot. — Dissolve 1 tablespoonful sugar in 2 of hot 
water, add 2 tablespoonfuls Cognac and 1 of St. Croix rum. Fill the 
glass while boiling, and grate a little nutmeg over the top. 

Milk Punch with Egg, No. 1. — Stir in a tumbler the yolk of 
1 egg with 1 tablespoonful powdered sugar to a cream, add 2 table- 
spoonfuls Cognac, a little cracked ice, and fill the tumbler full of 
milk ; grate a little nutmeg over the top, and serve. 

Milk Punch with Egg, No. 2.— Stir the yolk of 1 egg with 1 
tablespoonful powdered sugar to a cream, add a small glass of brandy 
and a little St. Croix rum ; then beat the white to a stiff froth in a 
large tumbler ; add the above mixture gradually while beating con- 
stantly ; then add sufficient milk to fill the glass while stirring all 
the time ; add a little ice, and, if liked, season with grated nutmeg. 
(Milk punches with egg are mostly used for the sick.) 



584 PUNCHES. 

Egguog. — Stir 2 teaspoonfuls sugar with the yolk of 1 egg 
to a cream, add 1 tablespoonful of the best Jamaica rum, beat the 
white to a froth, add it to the above mixture, and serve. Eggnog 
prepared in this way is excellent. In place of rum, sherry wine or 
Cognac can be taken. 

Lemonade^ Extra Fine. — To make 2 quarts lemonade put 2 
cups sugar into a bowl, and grate the rind of 3 large lemons over it. 
Be careful only to grate off the yellow part. Then press out the 
lemons, strain the juice and pour it over the sugar, add 1 cup cold 
water, stir for a few minutes. Cover and let stand for 15 minutes, 
then stir until the sugar is dissolved ; strain the sirup through a 
sieve, put it in a 2-quart pitcher, fill with ice water, and serve. 

Lemonade, Hot. — Dissolve 1 cup sugar in 1 cup water, add the 
peel of 1 lemon and the strained juice of 2 ; boil 2 minutes. Then 
strain, divide this sirup into 4 tumblers, and fill each with boiling 
water, then serve. To this lemonade any kind of liquor may be 
added, either brandy, rum, white or red wine, if liked. 

Whisky Puiich, Hot. — Dissolve 1 tablespoonful sugar in 2 
gills of boiling water, add 1 gill of whisky and a slice of lemon ; 
serve hot. 

Rum Punch, Hot. — Prepare the same as whisky punch. 
Take Jamaica rum in place of whisky. 

Fruit Punch. — Put the juice of 2 large lemons and 6 oranges 
in a punch bowl, add 1 pint of well washed strawberries or Yg pint 
preserved strawberries, 1 peeled pineapple cut into small dice- 
shaped pieces, add 2 quarts cold water, Y^ cup of sugar, and a large 
piece of ice, or sweeten to taste. 

Orange Punch, — Put 2 pounds Clement's orange sugar into a 
punch bowl, add lYg gallon cold water, 1 bottle white wine, Yg pint 
preserved pineapple, Ys pint preserved pitted cherries, 1 pint of fine- 
cut fresh pineapple, a large piece of ice ; mix and serve in small 
glasses. 



PUNCHES. 585 

May Bowl. — Procure some fresh Waldmeister {Asperula odo- 
rata) in the mouth of May, tie it into small bundles, and hang it for 
2 hours outdoors in the shade. Put IY2 ounce of Waldmeister into a 
covered jar; add 2 pounds sugar, 2 quarts Khine wine or white 
wine, cover, and set for 1 hour on ice ; then strain and serve, or put 
it into bottles, cork tightly, and put in a cool place. May bowl 
may be served with cracked ice, or the bottles may be laid on ice 2 
hours before serving. Another way is to put the May bowl in a 
punch bowl and add 1 fine sliced orange without the seeds, or add 
1 pint fresh strawberries; also fine-cut fresh pineapple may be 
added. 



FRUIT SHRUBS. 

Extensively used for summer beverages. 

Lemon Shrub. — Pare the rind as thin as possible from 2 dozen 
fresh lemons ; press out the juice. Strain the juice, and add to each 
pint of juice 1 pound of sugar and Yg gill of brandy, cut the lemon 
peel into small pieces and add them to the juice, cover and let it 
stand 24 hours ; then strain and bottle. A few tablespoonfuls of 
this in a glass of ice water makes a delicious drink. 

Currant Shrub. — Put some ripe currants in a saucepan, set 
in a vessel of boiling water, and let it boil until the juice flows 
freely ; then remove it, and when cold strain through a coarse bag, 
add to each pint of juice 1 pound sugar, let it boil 2 minutes, and 
remove the scum ; add to every quart of juice 1 gill of French 
brandy, run it through a Canton-flannel filter, and bottle. 

Cherry Shrub. — Put some ripe cherries in a kettle, add suffi- 
cient water to nearly cover, and boil till tender ; strain through a 
coarse bag, add to every pint of juice Y* pound sugar, boil 10 min- 
utes ; remove from fire, add to every quart of liquid 1 gill of brandy, 
filter through a Canton-flannel filter, and bottle. 

Raspberry Shrub. — Mash 3 pints ripe raspberries in a stone 
jar, pour over 1 pint white vinegar, let it stand overnight. Next 
day strain, add to the liquid 4 pounds sugar, let boil up, and remove 
all the scum ; add to each 2 pints of liquid, 1 gill of brandy, and 
bottle. In using, put 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls in a glass of ice water. 

Lemon Liqueur, No. 1. — Put the peel of 5 lemons in 2 quarts 
of French brandy in a demijohn, cork tightly, and let stand 2 

586 



FRUIT SHRUBS. 587 

weeks in a warm place. Boil IY4 pound sugar with 2 quarts water 
to a sirup, add to this the brandy and lemon peel, put it in a porce- 
lain kettle on the back of stove. Let get hot, but do not allow to 
boil ; strain and keep in well-corked bottles in a cool place. 

Lemon Liqueur, No. 2. — Put 4 bottles of Cognac with peel 
and juice of 16 lemons in a large demijohn, add V-j^ pound sugar 
and 2 quarts boiling water. Shake all well and let stand for 2 
weeks, shaking each day. At the end of that time, filter and put 
with the liquor in well-corked bottle. 

Albsinthe Liqueur. — Take 18 ounces of fennel seed, 2V2 ounces 
aniseseed, 6Y2 ounces licorice root, 4 gallons alcohol of 95 degrees, 
3 gallons water, 2 ounces peppermint, 6 ounces wormwood. Let all 
stand 10 days to infuse. Press it in a fruit press and filter through 
prepared filtering paper. 

Raspberry Liqueur. — Put 2 quarts raspberries in a stone jar, 
pour over 2 bottles Cognac, cover and let stand for 1 week in a warm 
place. Then strain, add 1 quart of simple sirup, filter, and set 
away in well- corked bottles. 

Yanilla Liqueur. — Dissolve 2 pounds sugar in 2 quarts cold 
water, add 2 vanilla beans split in two, and boil slowly for 7s hour ; 
remove from fire, and when cold add 1 quart French brandy and a 
few drops prepared cochineal, filter and keep in well-corked bottles. 
Or mix 1 quart French brandy with 2 quarts vanilla sirup. 



CHAFING DISHES. 

Silon Curry. — Put 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped onion with 1 
tablespoonful butter in a chafing dish, cook five minutes, add 1 tea- 
spoonful curry powder and 1 tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 3 
minutes ; add lYg cupful boiling water and 1 teaspoonful beef ex- 
tract, 1 teaspoonful salt, cook 6 minutes ; add 1 pint of fine-cut cold 
cooked chicken, turkey, veal, or fish meat, 1 cupful fresh grated 
cocoanut, Yg cupful of cream, cook ten minutes, then serve. 

Oysters a la Cress. — Place 20 large oysters without their 
liquor in a chafing dish, add 1 tablespoonful Rhine wine or 1 table- 
spoonful lemon juice, 1 even teaspoonful salt, ^j^ teaspoonful white 
pepper, and 1 ounce butter, cook till the oysters begin to ruffle. 
Pour the oysters into a dish. Put Yg tablespoonful butter into the 
chafing dish, add Ys tablespoonful flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; 
add Y4 cupful of the oyster liquor, a little beef extract, Y4 hay leaf, 8 
whole peppers, season with Y4 teaspoonful salt, cook 5 minutes ; re- 
move bay leaf and peppers, put in the oysters without the broth, 
mix the yolk of 2 eggs with Y2 giU of cream, stir for a few minutes, 
add Y2 tablespoonful lemon juice, and serve. 

Oysters Sauted. — Place 12 large oysters without their liquor 
in a chafing dish, add Yg tablespoonful butter, Y2 teaspoonful salt, 
Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cover and cook till the oysters stiffen, then 
serve ; Y2 gill of cream may be added. 

Clams a la Gude. — Remove the bodies from 20 soft-shelled 
clams, throw the rest away, place the bodies in a chafing dish, add 1 
tablespoonful butter, Y4 teaspoonful pepper, cook 5 minutes ; mix 

588 



CHAFING DISHES. 689 

the yolk of 2 eggs with Yg cupful cream, add to it the clams, let it 
remain a few minutes, then serve. 

Clams a la Maryland. — Remove the bodies from 20 soft clams, 
place the bodies with 1 tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add 1 
tablespoonful fine-cut truffles, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry wine, V4 
teaspoonful of pepper, cook 8 minutes, being careful not to stir 
them ; mix Yg cupful cream with the yolks of 2 eggs, add it to the 
clams, let it remain a few minutes, to heat but not boil, then serve. 

Tripe a la MacFallen. — Wash and cut 1 pound of tripe into 
3 -inch pieces, place them in the lower pan of a chafing dish, cover 
with water, add 1 bay leaf, 12 whole peppers, 1 sliced onion, Y2 giU 
of vinegar, and 1 teaspoonful salt ; cook 15 minutes ; put in the 
upper saucepan 1 tablespoonful butter, add 1 tablespoonful flour ; 
stir and cook till the butter has absorbed all the flour, then add IY2 
cupful of milk or cream, 1 even teaspoonful salt, Ys teaspoonful 
nutmeg, if handy Yg gi^l of mushroom liquor, Ys bay leaf, 8 whole 
peppers ; boil 5 minutes ; mix the yolks of 2 eggs with Ys giU of 
cream, add it to the sauce, add 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. Put 
the tripe into a dish and strain the sauce over it. Tripe may be 
prepared in the same manner with oyster sauce, Spanish sauce, or 
horseradish sauce. 

Spring Chicken in a Chafing Dish. — Cut 1 well-cleaned 
spring chicken into 4 pieces, season with 1 teaspoonfiil salt and Y* 
teaspoonful pepper ; melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a chafing dish, 
add Ys tablespoonful fine-chopped onion ; put in the chicken ; cover 
and cook till done ; mix the yolk of 1 egg with Ys giU of cream, add 
it to the chicken ; add last Ys tablespoonful lemon juice, and serve. 

Quails in a Chafing Dish. — Melt 1 tablespoonful butter in a 
chafing dish ; season 2 well-cleaned quails with 1 teaspoonful salt, 
put them into the butter ; cover and cook till done ; then remove 
them ; add 1 teaspoonful flour to the gravy, stir and cook 2 minutes ; 
add 1 cup of boiliug water, stir and cook 3 minutes ; put the birds 



590 CHAFING DISHES. 

on to buttered toast, pour over the gravy, and serve. Pigeons or any 

kind of birds can be cooked in the same manner. 

The following dishes may be cooked in a chafing dish : 
Creamed Lobster, Shad Koe, 

Lobster a la Newburg, Terrapin, 

Creamed Oysters, Fondue of Cheese, 

Eggs in all styles, All kinds of cereals, 

Chicken a la Poulette, Welsh Rarebit. 

Sweetbreads, 

Shad Roe. — Place the roe of a fine fresh shad in the lower pan 
of a chafing dish, cover with cold water, add 2 tablespoonf uls vine- 
gar, 1 sliced onion, Yg tablespoonf ul salt, 1 bay leaf, 8 whole peppers, 
and V4 teaspoonful white pepper; light the lamp, place the pan 
over it, cover and boil 5 minutes ; remove the roe, place it in the 
upper chafing dish with 1 tablespoonful butter, cover and cook 5 
minutes ; then turn it and cook 5 minutes on the other sides. Mix 
1 tablespoonful butter with the juice of Yg lemon, Yg teaspoonful 
fine-chopped parsley, and Y2 teaspoonful grated nutmeg ; lay the roe 
on to a dish, spread over the butter, and serve. 

Flounders a la Dresden. — Remove the fillets from a 2-pound 
flounder, season them with Y2 tablespoonful salt and Y4 teaspoonful 
pepper, roll them up cork-shaped, and tie with a string or fasten 
with a toothpick. Melt 1 tablespoonful of butter in a chafing dish, 
put in the fillets, add 1 slice of carrots, 2 slices of onion, cover and 
cook till done ; remove the fillets, add Ys tablespoonful flour to the 
sauce, stir and cook 3 minutes, add ^4 cupful water, Ys teaspoonful 
beef extract, Y2 even teaspoonful pepper, Ys bay leaf, cook five min- 
utes ; mix the yolk of 2 eggs with Y2 g^^l of cream or milk, add it to 
the sauce, add Y2 tablespoonful lemon Juice, stir 2 minutes, then 
strain the sauce over the fillets, and serve. Flounders prepared in 
this way may be baked in a medium hot oven, covered with but- 
tered paper, otherwise treated the same as above. Another way is 
to cover one side of the fillets with fish forcemeat mixed with fine 
herbs, and cooked in the same manner and served with oyster sauce. 



INDEX. 



Almonds. 

Salted, 531. 
Artichokes. 
Artichoke bottoms, stuffed, 506. 
artichokes a la Barigoule, 505. 
au naturel, 505. 
saute, 506. 

ASPAKAGUS. 

a I'Allemande, 475. 
a l'Am6ricaine, 475. 
a I'ltalienne, 476. 
h, la vinaigrette, 476. 
fried, 477. 
Hollandaise, 475. 
salad, 477. 
stewed, 477. 
with Latana sauce, 476. 
with melted butter, 475. 
with peas, 476. 

Bass. 

a I'Espagnole, 229. 
a la Eadzivill, 229. 
a la St. Helair, 228. 
baked a I'Espagnole, 229. 

plain, 226. 
boiled, 227. 
broiled, 226. 
fillet of bass, fried, 227. 
fish croquettes, 230. 
fried, 227. 

stuffed with oyster forcemeat, 227. 
Btriped bass a la Saragossa, 228. 
where found, etc., 226. 
Beans. 

Dried Lima beans, 490. 

red beans, 489. 

white beans, 490. 



Beans. 
Lima beans, 489. 

sauted, 490. 
string beans, a I'Allemande, 485. 

a I'Americaine, 486. 

a la creme, 486. 

a la Mikado, 487. 

Hanoverian style, 485. 

preserved, 489. 

preserved cooked, 489. 

salad, 489. 

salted, 487. 

salted boiled, 487. 

siilfced with dried white beans, 

sauted, 486. 

Viennoise, 486. 

with boiled mutton, 488. 

with pork and vinegar, 486. 
Beef. 

a la mode, 237. 
a la Tartare, 249. 
braised, 232. 

a I'Americaine, 233. 



a la Fran^aise, 233. 

a la jardiniere, 233. 
brisket, boiled, a I'ltalienne, 239. 
corned beef and cabbage, 257. 

how to boil, 256. 

with suet dumplings, 256. 
falscher base, or mock hare, 259. 
fillet a I'Americaine, 241. 

a I'Allemande, 242. 

a la Berlinoise, 242. 

a la princesse, 243. 

braise a la printanier, 243. 
flank a I'Allemande, 250. 

a la Berlinoise, 253. 



591 



592 



INDEX. 



Beef. 

Flank, a la Bremoise, 254. 

a I'ltalienne, 255. 

boiled, with horseradish sauce, 254. 

rolled, a la Philip, 252. 

rolled, filled, 252. 

rolled, in aspic, 251. 
gulash of beef, 267. 
Hamburger steak, 247. 

with onion sauce, 248. 
Hanoverian steak, 248. 
heart a la mariniere, 268. 

potted, 269. 

stuffed, 268. 
kidney a la Baden-Baden, 264. 

boiled, 263. 

bouch^es, 263. 

on toast, 263. 

saute, 262. 
kloppse, 258. 
liver, fried, 262. 
marrow bones on toast, 268. 
meat pudding, 259. 
ox-tail a la printanier, 265. 

stew a la Mexicaine, 266. 

stew with cabbage, 266. 
pot roast, 235. 

a TAllemande, 236. 
ragout, 256. 

ribs of beef, boiled, 241. 
roast beef, 240. 

how prepared, 240. 

with Yorkshire pudding, 241. 
roll of beef, 239. 
rouladen, No. 1, 257. 

No. 2, 258. 
sirloin of beef, a la Hamburgoise, 237. 
smoked beef a la Bechamel, 267. 
sour roast, 236.' 
spiced beef, 238. 
steak, 244. 

a la Colbert, 246. 

a la maitre d'hotel, 246. 

a la Stanley, 249. 

broiled, 244. 

broiled a la Bearnaise, 245. 

chuck, broiled, 250. 

chuck, fried, with tomato sauce, 250. 

flank, with onions, 249. 

fried, 245. 



Beef. 
Steak, minced, broiled, 249. 

pie, 269. 

raw, 248. 

round, broiled, with vinaigrette sauce, 
250. 

sirloin k la Milanaise, 247. 

tenderloin h, la Bordelaise, 244. 

tenderloin, broiled, 244. 

with mushroom sauce, 246. 

with onions, 245. 

witli oysters, 246. 
stew a I'Americaine, 255. 

with vegetables, 255. 
tongue a la financiere, 260. 

a la jardiniere, 261. 

boiled, a la Frankfurt, 261. 

corned, boiled, 262. 

ragout, 261. 

suited, 261. 

smoked, boiled, 260. 

with raisin sauce, 260. 
tripe a la maitre d'hotel, 264. 

a I'Espagnole, 265. 

a la MacFallen, 589. 

fried a la mariniere, 264. 

stewed, 265. 
Beef, Cold. 

Corned beef hash, 272. 
drippings, to clarify, 273. 
fricadellen, 270. 
hash, 272. 

how to make soap, 273. 
Irish stew of cold meat, 271. 
pillauofcold beef, 271. 
roast beef warmed over, 271. 

stewed with vegetables, 271. 
sour ragout, 272. 
soup meat a la Fanny, 273. 
trolley beef, 270. 
trying out suet, 272. 
Beets. 
Beet tops, boiled, 500. 
boiled, 499. 

in vinegar, 499. 

sliced in vinegar, 499. 
Blackfish. 

a la Stamford, 225. 
baked, 225. 
fried, 225. 



INDEX. 



693 



Bluefish. 

k la Bearnaise, 223. 

baked, 222. 

broiled witb butter a I'Allemande, 223. 

en papillotes, 223. 

fried, 222. 

with fines herbes, 224. 
Bread. 

Biscuits, 546. 

bread, 550. 

Boston brown bread, 551. 

finger rolls, 553. 

gluten bread, 551. 

Graham bread, 550. 

hornchens, 553. 

horns, 553. 

hot cross buns, 554 

raisin bread, 552. 

rye bread, 551. 

Vienna rolls. 552. 

BUTTERKISH. 

a la marini^re, 224. 
fried, 224. 
Butters. 

Anchovy, 112. 
black butter sauce. 111. 
coral, 112. 
crab, 112. 
crawfish, 112. 
horseradish. 111. 
lobster, 112. 
maitre d'hotel. 111. 
melted. 111. 
scallion. 111. 
seasoning, 111. 

Cabbage, etc. 
Brown kale a la paysanne d'Allemande, 
479. 
with chestnuts, 479. 
with pinkel, 479. 
Brussels sprouts a la creme, 483. 

sauted in butter, 483. 
cabbage, creamed, 477. 
red, a I'Allemande, 481. 
cooked with apples, 481. 
rolls, 478. 

Savoy, a la b^cliamel, 482. 
with butter, 483. 
478. 



Cabbage, etc. 
Cauliflower a I'Allemande, 481. 

a la Villeroi, 482. 

au gratin, 482. 
sauerkraut boiled plain, 485. 

with chestnut puree, 484. 

with Frankfurter sausages, 4) 

with pigs' tails, 483. 

with puree of peas, 484. 
sea kale, 485. 
Cake, etc. 

Almond cookies, 569. 
angel cake, 561. 
aniseed wafers, 569. 
apple fruit cake, 567. 
banana fritters, 573. 
Berliner pfannkuchen, 572. 
Berlions, 566. 
biscuit a I'Elcita, 564. 

glace, 577. 

kippel, 568. 

Teutonia, 576. 
bonsalina cake, 557. 
brodtorte, 560. 
butterkuchen, 556. 
Charlotte de Eusse, 564 
cocoanut balls, 566. 

comforts, 568. 

cookies, 568. 
cream cakes, 571. 
crullers, 572. 
French crullers, 572. 
drop cocoanut cakes, 566. 
eclairs, 571. 
elsfelder kranzel, 554. 
gateau a la Carey, 562. 

a la Clarita, 563. 

a la maseras, 563. 
Genoises, 558. 
gingerbread, 574. 
hazelnut torte a I'Emmita, 559. 
hobelspane, 570. 
ice cream, plain, 577. 
jessaline cake, 557. 
Jessina sultana, 578. 
kolatschen, 571. 

German, 573. 
Konig's torte, 559. 
krapfeln, 571. 
lady fingers, 578. 



594 



INDEX. 



Cake, etc. 

Macaroons, 567. 

mandeltorte, 560. 

Melrose pudding, 515. 

meringue, 578. 
boiled, 577. 

molasses cake, 574. 
coflPee cake, 574. 

Nesselrode pudding, 576. 

New Year's cakes, 574. 

nohrling, 570. 

nuss beugeln, 555. 

peanut cakes, 558. 

peppernuts, 575. 

pound cake, 565. 
economical, 565. 

ringlets, 565. 
Swiss, 566. 

salinen baisses, 577. 

St. Julia sultana, 561. 

sandtorte, 560. 

schaumtorte a I'Annita, 559. 

schneeballen, 570. 

soft cookies, 567. 

talmouses, 569. 

vanilla kipfeln, 565. 
wafers, 568. 

zamara cake, 568. 
Cakapes ; see Sandwiches and Canapes. 
Cakp. 

a la Chambord, 194. 

broiled, 193. 

en matelote, 193. 

fried, 192. 

a la mariniere, 192. 

in Polish sauce (beer fish), 193. 

roasted, with creme a I'AUemande, 194. 

roe, 194. 

where found, etc., 192. 
Cakrots. 

Carrot balls, 492. 

carrots, spring, and Lima beans, 492. 
stewed a I'AUemande, 492. 
Celery. 

a la creme, 500. 

root salad, 500. 

with oysters, 500. 
Chafing Dishes, 588-590. 
Cheese Dishes. 

Cheese au gratin, 530. 



Cheese Dishes. 
Cheese koch a la Viennoise, 529. 
souffle, 529. 
straws, 531. 
fondue au Pannesan, 530. 

on toast, 530. 
golden buck, 530. 
petites caisses au fromage, 529. 
ramequins, 531. 
Welsh rarebit, 530. 
Chicken, etc. 
Capon, roasted, 392. 

roasted and filled, 392. 
with bread filling, 393. 
chicken a la Baltimore, 360. 
a la creme, 365. 
a la Creole, 358. 
boiled with rice, 364. 
boned, 362. 
casserole of, 369. 
au riz garnee d'un eiiiince de volaille, 
369. 
cold, L la creme, 389. 
fritee of cold boiled, 387. 
cold, minced, 389. 
silan curry of, 388, 588. 
risotto of, 388. 
with oysters, 387. 
croquettes, 382. 
a la bechamel, 384. 
a la poulette, 384. 
a la traviete, 383. 
curry, 364. 

Indian, 425. 
epigram of, 374. 
fillet a la Maltaise, 372. 
a la Toulouse, 871. 
how to prepare for entries, 370. 
supreme, 371. 
forcemeat, 373. 
fricassee, a I'AUemande, 361. 
a I'Americaine, 361. 
plain, 363. 

with dumplings, 363. 
with forcemeat balls, 364. 
legs, broiled, 390. 

and joints a I'AUemande, 391. 
saute, 373. 
livers, a I'ltalienne, 890. 
broiled with bacon, 390. 



INDEX. 



595 



Chicken, etc. 
Chicken livers 
old, roasted, 386 
how to cook, ; 
with dressiug, 



pillau a I'Espagnole, 364. 
pot pie, 380. 
potted, 366. 

quenelles a I'AUeraande, 876. 
ragout, 375. 
ragoutant, 384. 
roasted, 366. 
with giblet, 367. 
with bread dressing, 368. 
with oyster forcemeat, 367. 
saute, 359. 

a I'Hongroise, 360. 
souffle, 374. 
spring, broiled, 377. 
broiled European style, 377. 
devilled, 378. 
fried, No. 1, 879. 
fried. No. 2, 379. 
Hungarian style, 878. 
in a chafing-dish, 589. 
timbales, small, 381. 

large, 376. 
with rice, 864. 
Clams. 
a I'Espagnole, 127. 
a la Gude, 588. 
a la Maryland, 125, 589. 
k. la Newport, 126. 
Brooklynaise, 126. 
chops, 128. 
croquettes, 128. 
devilled, 125. 
fritters, 129. 
on half-shell, 124. 
patties, 128. 
pepper roast, hot, 126. 
pickled, 129. 
pie, 127. 
pur6e of, 129. 
roasted, 125. 
soft-shell, fried, 125. 
fried in batter, 125. 
127. 



Codfish, Feesh. 
k I'Alleinande, 172. 
baked, 171. 
boiled, 171. 

whole, 170. 
fillet of, au gratin, 170. 
fried, 171. 
tongue a I'AUemande, 174. 

boiled, with black butter, 173. 

boiled, with pepper sauce, 173. 

fried, 173. 
Codfish, Salt. 
a I'AUemande, 177. 
a I'Americaine, 177. 
a la creme, 176. 
a I'Espagnole, 174. 
a I'ltalienne, 175. 
a la Eosano, 175. 
balls a la Patricia, 178. 
boiled, 178. 
cakes, 178. 
croquettes, 174. 
fried, 173. 

COEN. 

a I'ltalienne, 498. 

creamed, 497. 

fritters, 496. 

green, 497. 

pudding, 496. 
mock oysters, 496. 
succotash of corn and Lima beans, 

497. 
succotash of string beans, 497. 
Ceab. 
boiled, 137. 
devilled, 138. 

ragout, 137. - • 

soft shell, a la maitre d'hotel, 138. 

fried, 188. 
Ceoustades, Foundations, etc. 
Border of croutons, 528. 
bread croutons, 527. 

foundation, 526. 
canapes of bread, 527. 
crust a la duehesse, 527. 
foundations, 526. 

rice, 526. 
hominy, boiled, 528. 

fried, 528. 



596 



INDEX. 



Ceoustades, Foundations, etc. 
Petites croustades of rice, a la Parmesan, 
524. 
of bread, 527. 
rice, boiled a I'Allemaude, 522. 
rice border, 525. 
croquettes No. 1, 523. 

No. 2, 523. 
Milanaise, 522. 
timbales a la financiere, 523. 
plain, 522. 

small, a la Portuguese, 525. 
with apples, 522. 
risotte a la Milanaise, 525. 
small rice croustades a la Toulouse, 
524. 
Cdcumbee. 
a I'Allemande, 502. 
a la bechamel, 501. 
frite, 500. 
saute, 501. 
stufied, 501. 

Duck. 
a la Catalonia, 417. 
a la Valencia, 416. 
aux olives, 418. 
Hanoverian style, 420. 
roasted a I'Allem.ande, 413. 

a I'Am^ricaine, 413. 

in butter, 414. 
salmi of, 415. 

a la Milanaise, 415. 

of cold roasted, 418. 

of ducklings, 417. 

with brown kale, 418. 

with sauerkraut, 419. 

See also Game. 

Dumplings, Small, etc. 

Apple balls for fruit and soups, 82. 

bread dumplings, 84. 

chicken forcemeat balls, 84. 

chicken forcemeat, fine dumplings, 85. 

crab forcemeat balls, 87. 

decorated forcemeat balls, 88. 

egg balls, 86. 

dumplings, 83. 
fish forcemeat balls, 86. 
forcemeat balls of fish, pork, and veal, 87. 
kaiser nockerls, 71. 



Dumplings, Small, etc. 
Oyster forcemeat balls, 87. 
rice balls, 87. 

flour dumplings, 82. 
sausage forcemeat balls, 88. 
sponge dumplings for fricassees, 84. 
for soup, 83. 
with cheese, 83. 
turtle forcemeat balls, 86. 
veal forcemeat balls, 85. 

a la Frangaise, 84. 
zwieback dumplings, 82. 
See also Forcemeat Balls and Dump- 
lings. 

Eels. 
a la matelote, 147. 
a la Normande, 145. 
a la Tartare, 143. 
collared, 147. 
farci, 144. 
fried, 142. 
in beer, 144. 
in jelly, 145. 
how to smoke, 148. 
mariniere, 143. 
smoked, broiled, 148. 
with oysters, 146. 
Egg Plant. 
fried, 498. 
stuffed, 499. 
Eggs, etc. 
Bird's nest, 542. 
Eggs a la de Castellane, 539. 
au miroir, baked, 533. 

fried, 533. 
boiled, 532. 

for garnishing, 532. 
cream, 540. 
cup, on toast, 541. 
en croutons, 541. 
farces a I'Allemaude, 542. 
fried, 533. 

a I'Allemande, 533. 
on toast, 541. 
poached, 532. 

scrambled, a I'Allemande, 534. 
a I'Americaine, 534. 
a la Fran^aise, 534. 
and bacon, 534. 



INDEX. 



597 



Eggs, etc. 
Eggs scrambled with boiled ham, 535. 
with fines herbes, 535. 
with shrimps, 536. 
with smoked beef, 535. 
with tomatoes, 536. 
with trufla;es, 534. 
snow, 540. 
stuffed, 539. 
omelet a I'ltalienne, 538. 
cheese, 537. 

crab, crawfish, and shrimp, 538. 
French, 536. 
German, 536. 
kidney, 539. 
lobster, 538. 
oyster, 537. 
Spanish, 537. 
tomato. No. 1, 538. 
No. 2, 538. 
oysters, nest, 541. 
shrimp, nest, 540. 
Endives. 

With cream, 502. 



of anchovies, 113. 

of chicken, 115. 

offish, 114. 

of game, 114. 

of mushrooms, 113. 

of poultry, 114. 

of spice, 113. 

of truffles, 113. 
fines herbes, 114. 
herbs salt, 115. 
seasoning salt, 115. 

Floukder and Sole. 
Flounder and its species, 150. 
a la Dresden, 590. 
farci a la Messalina, 155. 
fillet a la Berlinoise, 151. 
k la Frangaise, 153. 
a la Viennoise, 151. 
fried, 156. 
Sole, fillet farci, 154. 

with Tartar sauce, 154. 
or flounder a la Normandie, 153. 
fillet a la Venetienne, 162. 
fillet, how to prepare, 150. 



Forcemeat. 
Corn filling, 76. 
forcemeat a I'Espagnole, 74. 

American, 75. 

Borden, 71. 

chestnut, 74. 

clam, 77. 

crab, 77. 

fine chicken, 77. 

fine fish, 75. 

French fish, 76. 

game, 77. 

giblet, 74. 

liver. No. 1, 71. 
No. 2, 71. 

lobster, 77. 

oyster, 74. 

plain fish, 76. 

sausage, 75. 

tomato, 77. 

veal, No. 1, 73. 
No. 2, 73. 

with almonds, 75. 

with fines herbes, 73. 
Forcemeat Balls and Dumplings. 
Beef forcemeat balls, 78. 
cream dumplings for soup, 81. 
dumplings with prepared flour, 80. 
flour dumplings, 80. 
forcemeat balls of sausage meat, 78. 
liver balls, 79. 

a la royal, 79. 

dumplings, 79. 
for soup, 79. 
potato dumplings of raw potatoes, 80. 

balls for soup, 81. 
Thuringer dumplings, 80. 
See also Dumplings, Small. 
Foundations; see Croustades, Founda- 
tions, ETC. 
Frogs. 
a I'Espagnole, 139. 
a la poulette, 139. 
broiled a la maitre d'hotel, 140. 
fried, 139. 

in batter, 139. 

Game. 
Doe birds en canapes, 439. 
Dog birds, broiled, 438.. 



598 



INDEX. 



Game. 

Duck, canvas-back, boiled, 431. 
roasted, 430. 
with currant-jelly sauce, 430. 

mallard, roasted, 432. 
salmi of, 433. 

redhead, boiled, 432. 
roasted, 431. 

wild, 433. 
Grouse, lillets of, 445. 

roasted, 436. 
Guinea hen, potted, 391. 

roasted, 391. 
Hare roasted a I'Allemande, 451. 

a I'Anglaise, 450. 

and rabbits, roasted, 450. 
Partridge a la Soubise, 441. • 
Partridge, chartreuse of, 442. 

fillets of, a la sancroise, 445. 

larded and roasted, 443. 

or prairie-hen, roast, tilled with dress- 
ing, 436. 

roasted, 441. 

saut^, 444. 
Plieasant, roasted, 434. 
Prairie-hen, filled, 446. 

fillets of, 445. 

or partridge with cabbage, 443. 

potted, 435. 

roasted, 435. 
Quail a la maitre d'hotel, 438. 

broiled, plain, 437. 

in a chafing-dish, 589. 

potted, served on canapes, 437. 

on toast, 438. 
Kabbits, civet of, 451. 

hasenpfeffer of, 452. 

roasted, 452. 
Eed birds, potted, 439. 

roasted, 439. 
Snipe, English, roasted, 440. 
Teal, broiled, 432. 

roasted, 432. 

salmi of, 432. 
Venison, civet of, a la Fran§aise, 448. 

cold roast, in aspic, 449. 

garnished with aspic, 449. 

leg of, in aspic, 449. 

ragout of, 447. 

saddle of, roasted, a I'Allemande, 447. 



Game. 
Venison, saddle of, with currant jelly, 
446. 
steak a la maitre d'hotel, 448. 

broiled, plain, 449. 
with currant-jelly sauce, 448. 
Woodcock, broiled, 440. 
roasted, 440. 
Goose. 
Aspic de foie gras, 410. 
Escalops de foie gras a la Badoiee, 411. 
a la dauphine, 411. 
a la Maintenon, 411. 
Ganseklein or Scliwarzsauer, 409. 
Goose a la Chipolata, 408. 
a la St. Martine, 406. 
braisee a la flamande, 407. 
pickled, 408. 

roasted with apple dressing, 404. 
with chestnut dressing, 405. 
with potato dressing, 404. 
with raisin dressing, 405. 
Pate froid de foie gras, 409. 
Petites bouchees de foie gras, 412. 
de foie gras, 412. 



Haddock. 

a I'ltalienne, 206. 

baked, 207. 
stuft'ed, 205. 

boiled, 207. 

dried, 207. 

fillet a la maitre d'hotel, 206. 
a la Normande, 206. 
a la Tartare Allemande, 206. 

where found, etc., 205. 
Haliuut. 

a la maitre d'hotel, 156. 

a la Tartare, 157. 

boiled, 157> 

croquilles de poisson, 230. 

in Mayonnaise, 157. 
Heering. 

a I'ltalienne, 169. 

aux fines herbes, 168. 

farci, 166. 

fried, 167. 

mariniere, 168. 

rolls, 168. 

salad, 167. 



INDEX. 



599 



Hereing. 
Salt, fried, 167. 
broiled, 167. 
with Mayonnaise, 167. 

KlNGFISH. 

ail gratin, 205. 
fillets a la Tartare, 205. 
where found, etc., 204. 
Lamb. 

Haricot de mouton, 307. 
Lamb k la Milanaise, 307. 
breast of, 304. 
braised, 304. 
chops, broiled, 311. 

fried, 311. 
Epigram of, 311. 
a la Villeroi, 312. 
a I'AUemande, 307. 
broiled, 307. 
hakel-lummels, 309. 
haslet, braised, 309. 

ragout, 308. 
leg of, boiled, 305. 
boiled with pork, 301. 
braised a I'AUemande, 301. 
braised a la Polonaise, 301. 
ragout, 306. 

roast a I'Ashwarden, 302. 
a la Eade, 303. 
plain, 302. 

with mint sauce, 302. 
roasted forequarters, 303. 
shoulder of, braised, 300. 
braised a I'ltalienne, 300. 
stuffed, 304. 
stew, 305. 

a I'AUemande, 305. 
with dumplings, 305. 
tongue a I'AUemande, 310. 
a la jardiniere, 310. 
a la Tortonia, 311. 
broiled, 311. 
trotters, boiled, 310. 
Spring lamb stew, 306. 
Lettuce. 

Stuff'ed, 503. 
Lobster. 
k la citizen, 134. 
a la creme, 133. 



Lobster. 

a la Kewburg, 133. 
au naturel, 132. 
broiled, 133. 
chops, 135. 
coquilles, 134. 
croquettes, 136. 
devilled, 135. 
en val-au-vent, 136. 
how to choose, 132. 
patties, 135. 
ragout, 134. 
where found, 132. 

Macaroni and Nudles. 
Croquettes of macaroni, 516. 
Macaroni au gratin, 516. 
Nudle border, 520. 
Nudles, 518. 

a I'ltalienne, 519. 

boiled, dressed with pork and onions, 
519. 
with bread crumbs, 520. 

with tomato sauce a TAUemande, 519. 
Petites croustades of nudles, 520. 

of spaghetti, 516. 
Spaghetti a I'AUemande, 518. 

or macaroni, cooked plain, 518. 
Timbales of macaroni, 517. 
Tomato and sphagetti a I'ltalienne, 517. 

Mackerel, Fresh. 
a I'AUemande, 168. 
a I'Anglaise, 162. 
baked, 162. 

to serve cold, 162. 
boiled, 162. 
broiled, 161. 
fried, 160. 

a la maitre d'hotel, 161. 
Spanish mackerel, broiled, 163. 
en Papellotte, 164. 

Mackerel, Salt. 
Boiled, with potatoes, 165. 
broiled, 165. 
fried, 165. 
with cream sauce, 166. 

Muffins, Gems, etc. 
Biscuits, 546. 
Gems, 545. 



600 



INDEX. 



Muffins, Gems, etc. 
Gems, gluten, 547. 

Graham, 545. 

oatmeal, 547. 

with yeast, 546. 
Muffins, corn, 547. 

Graham, 545. 

hominy, 547. 

plain, 548. 

quick, 549. 

rice, 547. 

with yeast, 545. 
Popov ers, 548. 
Putts, breakfast, 549. 

German, 548. 

tea, 549. 

Vienna, 548. 
Scotch scones, 546. 
Mushrooms. 
Baked, 509. 
bouch^es, 510. 
broiled, 510. 
catsup, 511. 

how and where they grow, 508. 
in Spanish sauce, 511. 
pickled, 509. 
preserved in butter, 509. 

in water, 510. 
saut4, 511. 
stewed, 511. 
Mussels. 

a la Britannia, 130. 
a la mariniere, 130. 
a la Normande, 131. 
a la Villeroi, 130. 
farci, 130. 

how to prepare, 130. 
pickled, 131. 
Mutton. 
Cotelettes d'agneau a la Villeroi,. 329. 
Irish mutton stew, 325. 
mutton a I'AUemande, 313. 

boiled, 313. 

braised a la Proven^alc, 318. 

breast of, boiled, 320. 

cold, croquettes, 330. 
cuiTy of, 330. 
hashballs of, 331. 
minced, 329. 
chops a la mariniere, 320. 



Mutton. 
Chops a la maitre d'hotel, 322. 

breaded and broiled, 321. 

broiled, 322. 

fried, 322. 
cutlets a la marquise, 320. 

a la Pragoise, 328. 

braised, 324. 

a la Proven^ale, 328. 
kidney a la Mayence, 324. 

croustade, 325. 

devilled, 323. 

on skewers, 324. 

on toast, 325. 

saute, 323. 

with Madeira sauce, 324. 

with fines herbes, 323. 
leg of, a I'Americaine, 314. 

a la Westphalia, 313. 

braised, 317. 

mariniere, 316. 
neck of, braised, 319. 
pie, 327. 

potpie, old-fashioned, 327. 
roast, prepared like venison, 316. 
saddle of, k I'AUemande, 315. 

a la Madeira, 315. 

a la Milanaise, 315. 

braised a laFrangaise, 318. 
shoulder of, boiled with cabbage, 31 

potted, 319. 
stew, 327. 

a la Galizienne, 325. 

a la Jaworski, 326. 

with dumplings, 326. 
Nilrnberger cutlets, 321. 
sheep's liver, fried, 327. 

Nudles ; see Macaroni and Nudles. 

Olives. 

how to prepare, 112. 
Onions. 

Baked, 513. 

boiled, 512. 

creamed, 512. 

farci, 512. 

fried, 513. 

glazed, 512. 

saut6d, 513. 



INDEX. 



601 



OrSTER-PLANT. 

Boiled, 504. 
fried, 504. 
frite, 504. 

OrSTEKS. 

a la creme, German style, 118. 

a la cress, 588. 

a ritalienne, 121. 

a la maltre d'hotel, 116. 

a la New burg, 118. 

a la Normandie, 121. 

a la Vidricaire, 116. 

k la Villeroi, 123. 

box stew, 117. 

broiled, 121. 

cream stew, 117. 

creamed, a la Carey, 118. 

on toast, 117. 
chops, 123. 
croquettes, 122. 
dumplings, 122. 
en brochette, 120. 
fried, 116. 
farci, 123. 

frites a la Bearnaise, 119. 
patties, 119. 
pi'e, 124. 
pickled, 121. 
puree on toast, 120. 
ragout, 123. 
raw, 119. 

with Chantilly sauce, 119. 
roasted, 119. 
rolls, 120. 
sauted, 588. 
stew, 117. 

with milk, 117. 
with celery, 124. 

Pancakes. 
Buckwheat, with yeast, 545. 

German, 544. 
Dennett's, 544. 
Eierkuchen, 543. 
German, 543. 
hominy, 544. 
Northumbrian, 546. 
potato, 543. 
rice, 544. 
wheat, 544. 



Pancakes. 

Waffles, 549. 
Paksley. 

fried, 112. 
Paesnips. 

boiled and fried, 504. 
Peas. 

a I'AUemande, 491. 

a I'Americaine, 491. 

a I'Anglaise, 492. 

and carrots, stewed, a I'AUemande, 491. 

modern style, 491. 

puree, 492. 
Perch. 

a la bechamel, 216. 

a la maitre d'hotel, 214. 

a la Polonaise, 214. 

au gratin, 215. 

broiled a I'Americaine, 213. 
a la FrauQaise, 213. 

fillets a la Joinville, 215. 
a la Villeroi, 214. 
fritd, 216. 

fried, 214. 

stewed a I'Anglaise, 214. 

where found, etc., 213. 

with oysters, 215. 
Pigeon. 

Cutlets a la Dauphine. 421. 
a la Toringo, 422. 
with olives, 421. 

filled and roasted, 423. 

fillets, a la Pompadour, 422. 

potted, 423. 

roasted, 422. 

with peas, 424. 

with rice, 424. 
Pike. 

Boiled, 217. 

collared, 217. 

farci, 217. 

fillets of, a la mariniere, 219. 
with fines herbes, 220. 

Pastete, 220. 

stewed, 217. 

stuffed and baked, 218. 

where found, etc., 216. 

with sauerkraut, 219. 

P0MP.\N0. 

ii I'AUemande, 221. 



602 



INDEX. 



PoitPANO. 

Veronitia, 221. 
Pork. 
Bacon, boiled, 354. 
broiled, 354. 
fried, 353. 
Ham and eggs, 350. 
boiled, 354. 
broiled, 356. 
champagne, .'64. 
cold, potted, 351. 
remnants, No. 1, 3.51. 
remnants, No. 2, 35". 
with cream sauce, 351. 
corned, boiled, 349. 
fresh, a la Frangaise, 334. 
a la mariniere, 336. 
potted, 334. 
roasted, 335. 
stutied, 336. 
fried, 356. 
hash, 350. 
in Burgundy, 355. 
omelette, 353. 
pie, 352. 

with macaroni, 352. 
pudding, 353. 
plain, 350. 

sandwiches of biscuits, 350. 
with Cumberland sauce, 355. 
with nudles, 353. 
lard, 348. 

pig's feet, filled, 344. 

in jelly, 345. 

pickled, 344. 

head cheese, 346. 

cheese a I'Allemande, 346. 
head, filled, 345. 
tails with sauerkraut, 343. 
tongue a la jardiniere, 343. 
pickled, 344. 
ragout, 343. 
roasted, 331. 

with oyster forcemeat, 333. 
suckling, with apple dressing, 332. 
pork chops, broiled, 337. 
fried, 337. 
cold, how to utilize, 348. 
minced, 349. 
roasted, sour stew of, 349. 



Pork. 

Croquettes, 348. 

loin of, roasted, 333. 

potpie, 337. 

sausages. Frankfurter, 336. 

fried, 339. 
scrapple, 347. 

shoulder of fresh pork, roasted, 337. 
spare ribs, filled and baked, 342. 

pickled, 343. 

salted, 346. 

with sauerkraut, 343. 
stew, 338. 

with sweet potatoes, 338. 
tenderloin a la jardiniere, 339, 

a la mariniere, 340. 

a la Viennoise, 340. 

broiled, 341. 

farci, 341. 

fried, 341. 

larded, roasted, 339. 

short, 342. 
to pickle, 348. 
Weissauer, 333. 
Potatoes. 
Petitcs croustades de pommc de terre, 

466. 
Potatoes a I'Allemande, 467. 

a I'Anglaise, 465. 

a la Batiere, 466. 

a la Bismarck, 464. 

a la Diana, 468. 

a la Duchesse, 461. 

a la Florenza, 463. 

a la Hanovi-ienne, 467. 

a I'ltalienne, 459. 

a la maitre d'hotel, 467. 

a la Minden, 464. 

a la Parisienne, 463. 

a la Patricia, 460. 

a la Princesse, 464. 

a la Sarah Bernhardt, 464. 

a la Teutonia, 459. 

a la Wurthfleth, 464. 

baked, 459. 

balls, 463. 

a I'Allemande, 460. 

boiled with the skin, 458. 

cakes a la Limerick, 461. 

chateau, 462. 



INDEX. 



603 



Potatoes. ' 
Cold, hashed, 469. 

hashed with onions, 470. 

with green onions, 470. 
croquettes, 460. 
dumplings, 469. 

with bread croutons, 469. 

with farina, 469. 
French fried, 462. 
fried, 470. 
fritee, 467. 

fritee a I'Allenaande, 458. 
Lyonnaise, 461. 
Messalina, 466. 
mashed, 459. 
plain boiled, 458. 
puree, 459. 

raw, fried with pork, 461. 
sauted, 465. 

a I'AUemande, 458. 
shaving, 464. 
soutfl.ee, 459. 
straws, 462. 
stuffed, 463. 
sweet, balls, 471. 

boiled, 471. 

boiled and baked, 471. 

croquettes, 470. 
Viennoise, 468. 
with parsley sauce, 468. 
Saratoga chips, 462. 
Poultry. 
drawing, 358. 
how to choose, 357. 
how to kill, 357. 
Punches. 
Eggnog, 584. 
lemonade, extra fine, 584. 

hot, 584. 
May bowl, 585. 
orange cardinal, 581. 
pineapple cardinal, 581. 
punch, brandy, 582. 

champagne, 582. 

claret, 582. 
cold, 581. 
hot, 581. 

cold cream, 582. 

Eldorado, 583. 

fruit, 584. 

80 



Punches. 

Gin, cold, 583. 
hot, 580. 

imperial ice, 579. 
lemon, 581. 
milk, 583. 

hot, 583. 

plain, 583. 

with egg, No. 1, 583. 

with egg, No. 2, 583. 
orange, 581. 
port wine, 582. 
regent, 580. 
Eoman ice, 579. 
royal, No. 1, 580. 

No. 2, 580. 
rum, 580. 

hot, 584. 
sherry, 582. 
strawberry, 581. 
vanilla, 582. 
whisky, hot, 584. 

PUEEES, ETC. 

Chestnut, 614. 

a I'Espagnole, 514. 

a la creme, 515. 

saute in butter, 514. 
lentils, stewed, 514. 
of dried peas, 513. 

Eed Snapper. 
a la Bearnaise, 208. 
stuffed and baked, 208. 
where found, etc., 207. 

Salmon. 
a la Bismarck, 187. 
a la mariniere, 183. 
a la Kichelieu, 182. 
boiled, 180. 

served cold, with Mayonnaise, 180. 
broiled a PArminius, 184. 

a rAmerieaine, 184. 

in paper, 183. 

with sauce Bearnaise, 184. 
cotelettes, 184. 
en papillottes, 184. 
grille k la Periggueux, 182. 
how to truss and boil a whole fish, 179. 
in aspic, 185. 



604 



INDEX. 



Salmon. 
Pickled, 186. 
preserved, 188. 
Bmoked, 188. 
salted, boiled, 187. 

broiled, 187. 
smoked, broiled, 187. 
where found, etc., 179. 
Salmon Trout. 
a la Bearnaise, 189. 
a la creme, 189. 

cooked in wine a I'Allemande, 
where found, etc., 188. 
with Mayonnaise, 189. 
Salpicon. 

a la chasseur, 428. 

a la tinanciere, 426. 

a la Palerinotaine, 427. 

a la royale, 427. 

a la Toulouse, No. 1, 426. 

No. 2, 426. 
of fish, 428. 
of lobster, 427. 
of oysters, 428. 
Sandwiches and Canapes. 
Canapes aux ecrevisses, 455. 

d'anchovies, 455. 

of herring, 456. 

of lobster, 456. 

of sardines, 454. 

Lorenzo a la Filippini, 456. 

sauce for, 454. 
Sandwiches, 454. 
Sauces. 
Anchovy, 102. 
bechamel, 99. 

a I'Allemande, 99. 
bordelaise, 90. 
brown onion, 93. 
butter, 101. 
caper, 102. 
celery, 101. 
champagne, 94. 
chestnut, 105. 
Colbert, 98. 
crab and lobster, 102. 
cream, 99. 
Cumberland, 97. 
egg, 101. 
English bread, 95. 



Sauces. 
English gooseberry, 96. 
German cherry, 96. 
Helgolander, 91. 
Hollandaise, tine, 90. 
horseradish, 90. 
lobster, 102. 
Madeira, 97. 
mushroom, No. 1, 96. 

No. 2, 96. 
mustard, a I'Allemande, 103. 

economical, 103. 
olive, 94. 
onion, 92. 
oyster, 96. 
Paprika, 103. 
parsley, 101. 
Polish, 94. 

princess ; see fillet of beef a la princcsse. 
raisin, 94. 

sauce a I'Allemande, 100. 
a la diable, 106. 
a la financiere, 97. 
a I'ltalienne, brown, 100. 

white, 100. 
a la Politaine, 97. 
a la Stanley, 103. 
a la Toulouse, 92. 
a la venaison, 105. 
au Salmis, 104. 
Bearnaise, 98. 
de Gourmets, 95. 
Hollandaise, 91. 
matelote, 92. 
piquante, 91. 
Poivrade, No. 1, 90. 

No. 2, 104. 
Kobert, 105. 
shrimp, 102. 
sirup, 93. 
Spanish, 93. 
supreme, 99. 
tomato, k I'Allemande, 94 

a la FranQaise, 95. 
truflSe, 103. 
velvote, 98. 
Villeroi, 101. 
white onion, 93. 
Sauces, Cold. 
Benton, 109. 



INDEX. 



605 



Sauces, Cold. 
Chantilly, 108. 
egg, 101. 

for lettuce, 109. 
English mustard, how to mix, 109. 
game, 109. 

German cream, for lettuce, 109. 
herring, 108. 

horseradish, how to prepare, 110. 
latana, 108. 
Mayonnaise, 110. 

German, 110. 
mint, 108. 
radish, 108. 
ravigote, 109. 
remoladen, 107. 
sauce, a la maitre d'hotel, 109. 

Tartare, 107. 
German, 107. 

vinegretti, 108. 
Scallops. 
a la marini^re, 142. 
devilled, 142. 
fried, 141. 
on toast, 142. 
Shad. 
a I'Allemande, 197. 
a la Castellano, 201. 
baked, 199. 

with tilling, 199. 
broiled, 196. 
fillet a la Eoraaine, 200. 
fried, 196. 

a I'Allemande, 200. 
roe, 187. 

a la jardiniere, 197. 

broiled, 198. 

in a chafiing-dish, 590. 

on toast, 198. 
Bait, boiled, 202. 

broiled, 202. 
where found, etc., 196. 

SHEEPSHEAD. 

a la Creole, 204. 
a la Normande, 203. 
a la Tartare, 203. 
boiled, 202. 
Shrimps. 
Boiled, 131. 
with Mayonnaise, 131. 



Shrubs, Fruit, etc. 
Liqueur, absinthe, 587. 
lemon. No. 1, 586. 
No. 2, 587. 

raspberry, 587. 

vanilla, 587. 
shrub, cherry, 586. 

currant, 586. 

lemon, 586. 

raspberry, 586. 
Smelts. 
a la Bremoise, 149. 
a la Dresden, 148. 
broiled, 149. 
fried in pork, 148. 
mariuiere, 150. 
Sole ; see Flounder and Sole. 
Soups. 
Asparagus, 13. 
barley, how prepared for, 52. 

plain, 34. 
bisque of clams, 54. 

of clam bouillon, 55. 

of crab, 57. 

of crab a I'Allemande, 56. 

of lobster, 57. 
bouillon with rice, 11. 
bouquets, large, 1. 

small, 1. 
bread croutons for, 52. 
carp, 54. 

cheese croutons for, 52. 
chicken, 25. 

a I'ltalienne, 26. 

a la Maryland, 26. 

broth, 3. 
chilfinade, 20. 
clam, 55. 

chowder, 55. 

cream stew, 55. 
consomm^ a la Brunoise, 10. 

a I'ltalienne, 8. 

au Kisotto a I'ltalienne, 8. 

au riz a la Turque, 7. 

aux profiteroles, 6. 
a I'ltalienne, 6. 

aux ravioles, 5. 
a la Genoise, 5. 
croutes gratin^es, 5. 

garbure a I'ltalienne, 7. 



606 



INDEX. 



Soups. 
Consomme Milanaise, 3. 

St. Ilelaire, 9. 

with garbure aux laitues, 10. 

with Kaiser-nockerl, 6. 

with macaroni and tomatoes, 10. 

with potato dumplings, 9. 

with rice, 4. 

with sago, 5. 
corn, 19. 

and tomato, 18. 
cream k la Printanier, .36. 

of asparagus, .35. 

of carrots, 37. 

of cauliflower, 31. 
a la Fran^aise, 33. 

of celery, 36. 

of dried beans, 38. 

of dried peas, 38. 

of lentils, 38. 

of fresh Lima beans, 38. 

of oysters, 56. 

of pearl barley, 34. 

of rice, 35. 

a la royale, 35. 

of sorrel, 38. 

of turnips, 37. 
dried bean, 20. 
egg crumbs, 71. 
egg custard for, 70. 
Einlauf, 24. 
farina biscuit, 71. 
farina for, 52. 
fish chowder, 53. 

soup, 53. 
giblet, 22. 
glac6, 4. 
green turtle, 59. 

how to preserve, 58. 
gumbo, 15. 
Italian paste for, 53. 

vegetable (Menestra), 15. 
Julienne, 12. 
kidney, 22. 
lark, 26. 
lentil, 21. 
lettuce cream, 39. 
macaroni for, 53. 
macaroni, 53. 
matelote, 61. 



Socps. 
Miugle-mengle, 20. 
mock turtle, 28. 
Mongole, 15. 
mutton, 22. 
mutton broth, 3. 
nudle, 24. 
oxtail, 28. 

oyster, with milk, 56. 
pea, with pig's feet, 21. 
pigeon, a la creme, 30. 
for the sick, 27. 
with dumplings, 27. 
plain stock, 2. 
potage k la Clermont, 50. 
a la Crecy, 40. 
a la creme d'orge, 40. 
a la creme d'orge a la pur^e de vo- 

laille, 45. 
a la creme de riz a I'Allemande, 40. 
a la creme de riz a I'essence d'ecre- 

visse, 61. 
a la dauphine, 49. 
a I'imperiale, 39. 
a la raulligatawney, 39. 
a la puree de carottes a la "Winton, 42. 
de pommes de terre, 41. 
d'asperges, 48. 
de celeri a la creme, 43. 
de choux-tieurs, 48. 
de faisan, 46. 
d'haricots, 42. 

des lentilles a la Cond4, 41. 
de marrons a la dauphine, 42. 
de navets a la creme, 44. 
d'oignons a la creme, 44. 
de perdreaux a la dauphine, 47. 
de poireau, 41. 
de pois verts, 47. 
de volaille a la Eeine, 45. 
de volaille a la Comtesse, 47. 
a la Eegence, 49. 
vitricare, 44. 

d'abatis de dinde a la Eusse, 49. 
d'anguille a la Hambourgeois (Ham- 
burger Aal-Suppe), 60. 
d'anguille a la mariniere, 60. 
potato cream, 37. 
without meat, 19. 
rice for, 52. 



INDEX. 



607 



Soups. 
Eoyal, 11. 
Kussian, 50. 

vegetable, 51. 
sago for, 52. 
soup a la Chesterfield, 13. 

k la duchesse, 29. 

k I'ltalienne, 16. 

k la Printanier, 13. 

a la Eeine, 80. 

k la Vertpre, 31. 

a la Victoria, 81. 

biscuit, 70. 

de mouton Anglaise, 16. 

with chicken - forcemeat dumplings, 
27. 

with marrow balls, 28. 
split pea, 21. 
spring, 12. 

herb, 13. 
Stchy aux choux nouveaux, 51. 
tapioca for soup, 52. 
tomato, 17. 

corn, 18. 

cream, 17. 

without meat, 17. 

with egg balls, 18. 
snapping turtle, 59. 
turkey, 26. 
Turkish, 25. 
veal, 28. 

broth, 4. 
vegetable, 14. 
vermicelli cream, 33. 

for soup, 53. 
white stock, 2. 
Xavier, 32. 
Soups, Beer, Milk, and Chocolate. 
Beer a la creme, 67. 
milk plain, 68. 

with buckwheat grits, 69. 

with dumplings, 68. 

with egg crumbs, 69. 

with farina, 69. 

with nudles, 69. 

with oatmeal, 68. 

with rice, 68. 

with sago, 68. 

with snowballs, 68. 
soup a la blere, 67. 



Soups, Fruit and Wine. 
Apple, No. 1, 64. 

No. 2, 64. 
buttermilk, 69. 

with barley, 69. 

with dumplings, 69. 

with rice, 69. 
cherry, 69. 
cuiTant, 65. 
gooseberry, 65. 
grape, 65. 
huckleberry, 66. 
lemon, 66. 
peach, 64. 
pineapple, 66. 
prune, 66. 
raspberry, 65. 
strawberry, 65. 
wine, 67. 

cream, 67. 

zwieback, 67. 
Soups without Meat, 
Bean, 63. 
bread, 62. 
green pea, 62. 
mushroom, 62. 
onion, 63. 
split peas, 63. 
tomato, 63. 
Spaghetti ; see Macaroni ai7d Nudles. 
Spinach, etc. 
Sorrel with cream, 503. 
spinach a I'Allemande, 480. 

a I'Americaine, 480. 

a la creme, 480. 

a I'Espagnole, 480. 
Squash. 

Squash, 496. 
Sweetbreads, etc. 
Calves' brain h. 1' Alfonso, 299. 

blanched, 297. 

coquilles of, 298. 
petites casses de cervelles, 298. 
sweetbreads a la B^arnaise, 297. 

k la Fonchonette, 299. 

cooked with roast veal, 296. 

frit6 k la mariniere, 285. 

how to blanch and prepare, 295. 
saute, 296. 
scallops of, with mushrooms, 299. 



608 



INDEX. 



Sweetbreads, etc. ^ 

What they are, 295. 
with green peas, 296. 

Terrapin. 

a la Brooklyn, Hamilton club, 141. 
a la Maryland, 140. 
a la JSiewburg, 141. 
how to prepare and cook, 140. 
Morensi, 141. 
Tomatoes, etc. 
Peppers, stuffed green, 474. 
Tomatoes a la Traviata, 473. 

baked, 473. 

fried, 471. 

gratines, 473. 

roasted, 473. 

salad, 474. 

sauted, 472. 

stewed, 471. 
canned, 474. 

stuffed, 472. 

toast, 474. 

with rice forcemeat, 472. 
Trout. 
Baked in paper, 191. 
broiled, 191. 
fried, 190. 

where found, etc., 190. 
See also Salmon Trout. 
Truffles. 
a ITtalienne, 508. 
au naturel, 508. 

how and where they grow, 507. 
how to prepare, 507. 

TURBOT. 

American, a la diplomate, 158. 
broiled, 159. 
English, boiled, 
gratine, 159. 
glace a I'admiral, 160. 
where found, etc., 158. 
Turkey. 
Aspic or jelly for boned turkey, 402. 
boiled a I'Allemande, 396. 

with celery sauce, 397. 

with oyster sauce, 397. 
cold a la bc^chamel, 398. 

and oysters, 400. 

boned, 401. 



Turkey. 
Cold, croquettes of, 400. 

curry of, 399. 

in aspic, 403. 

in jelly, 400. 

ragout, 401. 

salad, 399. 

silan curry, 399. 
dressed with truffles a la rran9ai8e, 398. 
roasted a TAllemande, 393. 

plain, 398. 

with bread dressing, 394. 

with bread dressing, American style, 
395. 

with chestnut dressing, 395. 

with sage dressing, 395. 
Turnips. 
Turnip balls, 494. 
with bouillon, 495. 
Kussian, boiled, 495. 

creamed, 495. 

with bacon and potatoes, 495. 

with Frankfurter sausage, 494. 

with lamb, 494. 
white a la creme, 493. 

puree, 494. 

Veal. 
Calfs brain, coquilles of, with tomatoes, 
293. 

fried, 292. 
feet frit^ with Allemande sauce, 282. 
head, boiled, 283. 

how to bone and boil, 283. 
liver a la maitre d'hotel, 286. 
and bacon, fried, 286. 



broiled, 286. 

fried, 286. 

potted, 285. 

stewed, 287. 
tongue a la Espagnole, 294. 

a la jardiniere, 293. 

ragout, 281. 
Veal a la bdchamel, 289. 
blanquette of, a PAllemande, 280. 
breast of, 278. 
cold, warmed over, 288. 

with cream sauce, 288. 
croquettes. No. 1, 289. 



INDEX. 



609 



Veal. 

Croquettes, No. 2, 290. 
cutlets, broiled, 291. 
fried, 291. 

en papillotes, 290. 
in paper, 291. 
larded, with spinach, 292. 
Macedoine, 291. 



hash, 288. 

with oysters, 289. 
kidney, 283. 

loin of, a la princesse, 275. 
oysters, 290. 

roast, breast, k I'Allemande, 277. 
roasted, leg, a I'Allemande, 274. 

a 1' America! ne, 274. 

loin, 275. 
rolls, 282. 
roulade, 279. 

saddle, k I'Allemande, 276. 
shoulder, stuffed, 277. 
stew, k I'Americaine, 280. 

k I'Espagnole, 284. 

k ritalienne, 284. 

k I'Hanovrienne, 281. 



Veal. 
fricandeau, a la jardiniere, 294. 

a I'Allemande, 295. 
Heidelberger steak, 293. 
mock turtle, ragout, 284. 
pate froid de veau (Kalte Kalbspastete), 

287. 
Vienna schnitzel, 292. 

Weakfish. 

a la Polonaise, 211. 

a la Eothschild, 210. 

a la Tartare, 212. 

baked, 212. 
a la Eachel, 211. 

fillets of, 212. 

fried, 212. 

where found, etc., 210. 
Whitebait. 

a la Tartare Allemande, 209. 

broiled, 209. 

description, 209. 

fried, 209. 
Whitefish. 

broiled, 210. 

where found, etc., 210. 



THE END. 






^l / <^* 'X' 












bo^ 






=6 .-0" ^^ '!!*-/ ^<^ 



:'^ij 



vOo^ 



^^ '^ 













V v'' 



K^' ^ 



V 



,S^ ^, 



^t^^ 



.^^"^r>. 









.V 










'<t. .^^- .^ "::: « . '9-. ro-- x ^ ';,: % '^^ .a'^^'' . ^ ° ! "^ « . '^b. 







^ ->'^ a\ -s .^ 














'%','- :iiMk\ %-.<^^' 



: -r-"^. 






: o^ -r. 



<^\. 







vO o^ r ^;^ 



'\; 






,0( 






b^%, V'^wi / 



-^^ c<i 



'T .' 



,0 o^ 












o 0' 

rv*^ Iff) '^:- \ > s - ' 



V K*-- 






«: ■^..^- .%^i.„ /:\./' 



•.s^ >^^. 






vO o^ 






•^,^^' :,ei«: %/:V^^'^^%,# ^^^"^"'- 



.o^ 



^'.^g 



^% ^.srm: ■f 



.<^^^. 















-n^- V^ =. 




'be 



V"--\o^V 















o 0^ 



.■^ *^;2r^ " 



j/i /^ 






,"^^1^.^ 



x'^^ ."^ 






/ .^ xv 

V 

\ 






(^<>'. '.^^v-^ 



v^^^ 



ex:,' 






rf 






- 






.v^^' 






,;^.^x^ 



vOo. 









'/'_ ' 



" 
\ 



>>" <v'?- 



1^ 



)> - \V 



\ ^ '>r^' 



/ * S 1 A \\ 



\'. ^'^ ^ 






^. v^^ 
















LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




•','V:!;>:;;^i'i 



iitPi 






